# 2006 Civic Ex Final Re-Install



## scooter99

Ok everyone here's the new install thread. I spoke of in the last thread doing this one to clear everything up. There are some stuff that I'll be just moving over here and I'll get to that soon. First I'm going to list out for you the newest equipment I'll be using. I'm not going to list all the wires and db's and all that stuff. Just too much and makes the list too long. If you want to see it you can visit the last thread, I believe on page 15, and it's listed out there. But again some things have changed. I'm going to be detailed when I install everything. So here's the list.

*EQUIPMENT LIST:*

*Head Unit* - Alpine IVA-W505 with Ipod adaptor, Sirius Satellite, PAC TR-7, PAC SWI-JACKS, and other stuff. 

*Processor* - Alpine PXA-H701 (Not running Digital Optical or whatever it's called cause I can't get the cord. Not sure it's worth it to find it.)

*Headrest Monitors* - Alpine PKG-M780 (Kids gotta have the movies)

Front stage is going to be an active set up, I'm sure you gathered that by the PXA-H701. Here is that list:

*Tweeters* - Hertz High Energy HT25's (1")

*Mid Range* - Hertz High Energy HT70's (3")

*Mid Bass* - Hertz Mille ML 165's (6.5")

With the headrest monitors I need to have rear fill, but these will be set to only be on when the monitors are playing. I have thoughts about that and am going to be testing that theory here very soon. Noone jump the gun yet please. The rear fill will be as follows.

*Rear Fill* - Hertz Dieci DCX 100's (4" coax with a 19/32" tweeter)

*Subs* - 2-AE IB15's 

Obviously by the name of the subs they're going to be in an IB set up. Bikinpunk was my original inspiration on this set up. Thanks Erin, I'm definately excited about getting these in. 

*Main Battery* - Kinetik HC1800

*Secondary Battery* - Kinetik HC800. 

*Amplifiers* - Audison LRx amps (blue series). Installed like this.

Audison LRx 6.9 (6 Channel)

Channels 1 & 2 - Tweeters
Channels 3 & 4 - Mid Range
Channels 5 & 6 - Rear Fill

Audison LRx 4.1K (4 Channel)

Channels 1 & 2 - Mid Bass
Channels 3 & 4 - Bridged for Subs

*Plans for install:*

Wires are 1/0 ga to db blocks and then 4 ga (for now) to the amps. I may just use all 1/0 ga everywhere. We'll see what happens. Gotta make that decision when it comes up. Most, if not all, wires and db's are Tsunami.

For my main battery I have to build a new tray for this and an arm off of that so that I can mount the fuse block. I have already done the Big 3 change, that's why I need two fuses. One for the system and one for the alternator in the big 3. The tray will be made of expanded metal painted black or metalic blue, not sure which yet. There will be a bottome, of course, and 4 inch sides to hold the battery in place. Pretty basic! Then bolted in the stock position. 

I'll be building a false floor in the trunk to house the amps, processor, monitor brain, HC 800, and db blocks. Spare tire needs to be accessable so the floor will be hinged. Also doing a beauty panel to hide the subs and the trunk will be all one color for stealth. 

Tweets and mid range will be in pods in the apillars up on the dash. The mid bass will be in he stock door speaker locations. I may have to rebuild the lower door panels, due to my inability to wait from before and installing tweeters in the doors. There will be large holes there now and I have to figure out a way to hide those. My thought is to make a new door car, so to speak, out of fiber glass and cover the whole thing in grill cloth. I'll widen the space over the mid bass so the sound doesn't get muffled out before I cover it. The apillars will be covered in grill cloth as well but in a two piece design so I can pull off the cover of the speakers if needed. 

The rear fill will be a fiberglass pod that will be covered in matching grill cloth. Again in a two piece design so they can be removed if necessary. 

The rear deck is going to get some kind of treatment. Not sure what yet, but the pvc trim tray rattles like crazy and I think I'll try and get creative and see what I can come up with. Minor detail to worry about.

In the rear seat I have a fold down arm rest in the center. The back of the hole in the seat where the arm rest resides when it's folded up, will be removed, re built, and coverd with grill cloth to allow sub air movement. This will allow the arm rest to still be functional and the sound to be optimal at the same time. 

Somewhere along the line there will be neons in the cab, for the kids, and I'm not sure yet what's going to happen in the trunk. 

So stay tuned, get ready, and enjoy this ride as it unfolds. All equipment is in had with acception of the amps, but that's soon to change as well. But there's plenty more work to be done before that happens. So we'll get started and deal with things as they come along the way! 

I'm going to start pulling things over from the other thread, since they're already done and not changing. There's no since in trying reinvent the wheel this stage of the game.

Comments, of course, are always welcome!!! 

HERE WE GO!!!


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## 8675309

If you can fit it go ahead and do another Kinetik 1800

I really wanted to do Hertz Mille but I am going to get down with the Morel.



scooter99 said:


> Ok everyone here's the new install thread. I spoke of in the last thread doing this one to clear everything up. There are some stuff that I'll be just moving over here and I'll get to that soon. First I'm going to list out for you the newest equipment I'll be using. I'm not going to list all the wires and db's and all that stuff. Just too much and makes the list too long. If you want to see it you can visit the last thread, I believe on page 15, and it's listed out there. But again some things have changed. I'm going to be detailed when I install everything. So here's the list.
> 
> *EQUIPMENT LIST:*
> 
> *Head Unit* - Alpine IVA-W505 with Ipod adaptor, Sirius Satellite, PAC TR-7, PAC SWI-JACKS, and other stuff.
> 
> *Processor* - Alpine PXA-H701 (Not running Digital Optical or whatever it's called cause I can't get the cord. Not sure it's worth it to find it.)
> 
> *Headrest Monitors* - Alpine PKG-M780 (Kids gotta have the movies)
> 
> Front stage is going to be an active set up, I'm sure you gathered that by the PXA-H701. Here is that list:
> 
> *Tweeters* - Hertz High Energy HT25's (1")
> 
> *Mid Range* - Hertz High Energy HT70's (3")
> 
> *Mid Bass* - Hertz Mille ML 165's (6.5")
> 
> With the headrest monitors I need to have rear fill, but these will be set to only be on when the monitors are playing. I have thoughts about that and am going to be testing that theory here very soon. Noone jump the gun yet please. The rear fill will be as follows.
> 
> *Rear Fill* - Hertz Dieci DCX 100's (4" coax with a 19/32" tweeter)
> 
> *Subs* - 2-AE IB15's
> 
> Obviously by the name of the subs they're going to be in an IB set up. Bikinpunk was my original inspiration on this set up. Thanks Erin, I'm definately excited about getting these in.
> 
> *Main Battery* - Kinetik HC1800
> 
> *Secondary Battery* - Kinetik HC800.
> 
> *Amplifiers* - Audison LRx amps (blue series). Installed like this.
> 
> Audison LRx 6.9 (6 Channel)
> 
> Channels 1 & 2 - Tweeters
> Channels 3 & 4 - Mid Range
> Channels 5 & 6 - Rear Fill
> 
> Audison LRx 4.1K (4 Channel)
> 
> Channels 1 & 2 - Mid Bass
> Channels 3 & 4 - Bridged for Subs
> 
> *Plans for install:*
> 
> Wires are 1/0 ga to db blocks and then 4 ga (for now) to the amps. I may just use all 1/0 ga everywhere. We'll see what happens. Gotta make that decision when it comes up. Most, if not all, wires and db's are Tsunami.
> 
> For my main battery I have to build a new tray for this and an arm off of that so that I can mount the fuse block. I have already done the Big 3 change, that's why I need two fuses. One for the system and one for the alternator in the big 3. The tray will be made of expanded metal painted black or metalic blue, not sure which yet. There will be a bottome, of course, and 4 inch sides to hold the battery in place. Pretty basic! Then bolted in the stock position.
> 
> I'll be building a false floor in the trunk to house the amps, processor, monitor brain, HC 800, and db blocks. Spare tire needs to be accessable so the floor will be hinged. Also doing a beauty panel to hide the subs and the trunk will be all one color for stealth.
> 
> Tweets and mid range will be in pods in the apillars up on the dash. The mid bass will be in he stock door speaker locations. I may have to rebuild the lower door panels, due to my inability to wait from before and installing tweeters in the doors. There will be large holes there now and I have to figure out a way to hide those. My thought is to make a new door car, so to speak, out of fiber glass and cover the whole thing in grill cloth. I'll widen the space over the mid bass so the sound doesn't get muffled out before I cover it. The apillars will be covered in grill cloth as well but in a two piece design so I can pull off the cover of the speakers if needed.
> 
> The rear fill will be a fiberglass pod that will be covered in matching grill cloth. Again in a two piece design so they can be removed if necessary.
> 
> The rear deck is going to get some kind of treatment. Not sure what yet, but the pvc trim tray rattles like crazy and I think I'll try and get creative and see what I can come up with. Minor detail to worry about.
> 
> In the rear seat I have a fold down arm rest in the center. The back of the hole in the seat where the arm rest resides when it's folded up, will be removed, re built, and coverd with grill cloth to allow sub air movement. This will allow the arm rest to still be functional and the sound to be optimal at the same time.
> 
> Somewhere along the line there will be neons in the cab, for the kids, and I'm not sure yet what's going to happen in the trunk.
> 
> So stay tuned, get ready, and enjoy this ride as it unfolds. All equipment is in had with acception of the amps, but that's soon to change as well. But there's plenty more work to be done before that happens. So we'll get started and deal with things as they come along the way!
> 
> I'm going to start pulling things over from the other thread, since they're already done and not changing. There's no since in trying reinvent the wheel this stage of the game.
> 
> Comments, of course, are always welcome!!!
> 
> HERE WE GO!!!


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## scooter99

I would love to install a second HC1800 instead of the HC800 but I just don't think I have the room for it. I'll have to take a look though.


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## 8675309

Have you considered doing 2 - 600's?



scooter99 said:


> I would love to install a second HC1800 instead of the HC800 but I just don't think I have the room for it. I'll have to take a look though.


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## scooter99

8675309 said:


> Have you considered doing 2 - 600's?


Well if I was trying to get to another HC1800 I could do 3 HC600's but again I'm not sure about space. At that I could just get another 800 and call it a day. I'll have to see what I can come up with for a design.


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## frmdrkside

The HC-1400 is not much bigger than the HC-800. Might be an option.


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## scooter99

At this point i already have the 800 so if i can make it work and its necessary I'll just add another 800 to it. thanks for the input everyone. 

Update- The amps are within reach. Just waiting for some paypal issues to sort themselves out and we're home free!! Woohoo!!

I also asked a couple questions that I'm waiting for answers to out there. Once I get those answered I'll be on my way to building. My neighbor, I found out, does body work and welds so I'm going to have him do the welding on my battery tray project. I would normaly just learn to do it myself and add it to my tools file in my brain but I just simply don't use it that often. So there's no since really in trying to learn it, get the tools, and then try and store them afterwards, for this little project. I'll watch him do it and see if he can give me some pointers as it gets done. 

That's all for now!


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## scooter99

Ok so I was playing with my MS Paint skills a little bit today since my equipment list is officially finalized now. It is how it was noted at the beginning of this thread.

Here is the main layout of components. Starting at the top, I'm using a Kinetik HC1800 and building a rack for it and the distro block next to it. The Big three is already done but I will most likely redo it, as one of the connections has already broken and needs to be re done. 

The Hertz High-Energy HT25 Tweeters, and HT70 Mid Ranges will be in a fiberglass pod in the Apillar. Covered with grill cloth to match the interior. 

The Hertz Mille 165 mid bass will reside in the stock locations in the doors. The doors will be altered, mentioned earlier in the thread, and the overall grill area widened to open the sound area a bit. Hope everyone understands that. If not ask. 

The Hertz Deici DCX-100 rear fill will go into pods built into the rear trim a pillars. These will face the rear passengers, crossed. Left side from right and vise versa. 

The Alpine PKG-M780 Headrest Monitors will go in the rears of the front two headrests. These have been done already but will be redone as the frames of the monitors are slipping out of the headrests. 

The Alpine PKG-M780 Headrest Brain, Alpine KCA-SC100, Sirius Tuner, and Alpine PXA-H701 will all reside in the rear deck. I'll build a new panel with a cover for it and it will be covered with the same grill cloth as everything else to breath. 

The Acoustic Elegence IB15's will be done in an IB set up. There will be a beauty panel in the trunk area to protect them and hide them as well. 

The Audison LRx 4.1K, LRx 6.9, Kintetik HC800, Distro blocks, and in line fuse block, will reside in a false floor in the trunk. The HC800 will be in a compartment made to fit in the spare tire and protrude through the bottom of the false floor showing only the top. All will be covered and hinged so there will be access to the spare tire if needed. 

The trunk will be coverd in matching carpet of some sort. 

Here is the layout pic:

[URL=http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/99scooter/Final%20Diagrams/?action=view&current=NewComponentDiagram.jpg][/URL]

Next is the power diagram. 

Starting at the top again. The Kinetik HC1800 is the main battery. From there a 1/0 ga. power wire will run through the Db and to the rear inline fuse block. From there into the HC800. From the HC800 a 1/0 ga. power wire will run to another fused db like the one in the front. From that block a 1/0 ga. wire will run to the Audison LRx 4.1k and the other will run to the Audison LRx 6.9. These amps are only built to take a 2 ga. insert into them, so I will most likely use a 1/0 ga to 4 ga. reducer to insert into the amps. I'll also heatshrink them so there are no issues with closeness and possibilities of shorting out. 

Not show in the diagram, I will most likely add a separate line for the other accessories. I will run a 4 ga. line to a fused db and then run from there to each accessory. Head unit, processor, monitor brain, and most likely doing neons as well in the cab. My kids love em!! 

Here's the diagram:

[URL=http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/99scooter/Final%20Diagrams/?action=view&current=NewComponentPowerDiagram.jpg][/URL]

Next are the connections.

Starting with the Alpine PKG-M780. I'll be running a video line, and an rca line to the brain from the Alpine IVA-W505 A/V Output. These will go to the A/V Aux 1 inputs. This will supply the sound as well as the video to the mointors. From there I will run another set of rca's from the output of the Alpine PKG-M780 to the 5&6 channels of the Audison LRx 6.9. This will ensure that the only time the rear fill is on, is when the monitors are on. The monitors will be connected via the supplied monitor wires. 

Next from the Alpine IVA-W505 I'll be running the AI-net cable, a Digital Cable (not shown in the diagram), and a set of RCA's to the Alpine PXA-H701. The extra cables are for the time when, and if, I switch from the Alpine PXA-H701 to the Audison Bit One Processor. I want to make sure everything is there already and doesn't have to be re installed. Thinking ahead. 

From the Alpine PXA-H701, the Front 1 Outputs will run to the 1&2 Channels of the Audison LRx 6.9 for the tweeters. The Front 2 Outputs will run to the 3&4 Channels of the Audison LRx 6.9 for the mid ranges. Rear Outputs will be run to Channels 1&2 of the Audison LRx 4.1k for the mid bass. The sub and center channel (used for subs) outputs will be run to the 3&4 Channels for he subs.

Here's that Diagram:

[URL=http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/99scooter/Final%20Diagrams/?action=view&current=NewComponentConnectionDiagram.jpg][/URL]

Finally here is the speaker hook up diagram. 

The Audison LRx 6.9 will run like this, as mentioned above.

Channels 1 & 2 - tweeters
Channels 3 & 4 - mid range
Channels 5 & 6 - rear fill

The Audison LRx 4.1k will run like this, again as mentioned above.

Channels 1 & 2 - mid bass
Channels 3 & 4 bridged - subs

Here's the diagram:

[URL=http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/99scooter/Final%20Diagrams/?action=view&current=NewSpeakerHookUpDiagram.jpg][/URL]

Now to make it all happen!!!


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## scooter99

UPDATE UPDATE!!! I Got presents today!!! WOOTWOOT!! 

Here's a mystirious box, rather large. Thanks Mr. Fed Ex guy!!



Opened it up and there's a bunch of packing peanuts! I hate these things. Out to the dumpster we go. 



And out comes two sexy boxes!! Audison LRx 6.9 and LRx 4.1K WOOOHOOOO!!! 





They're in perfect shape, seems to be anyway. 





Here they are in the trunk, close to their final resting places!! 



Thank you to Chadillac3 for the sale and the great service. I'll post up a positive response on the for sale thread! Great working with you my friend!


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## 98kugt

That's a cool idea connecting the monitors to the inputs on the amp. Is there a type of volume out of that output or is it a constant output?


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## scooter99

98kugt said:


> That's a cool idea connecting the monitors to the inputs on the amp. Is there a type of volume out of that output or is it a constant output?


You know what, I'm not sure yet. I'm actually going to try some stuff out so I can get a solid idea of what I'm going to do. 

I'm also going to expirament with making my own video cables. There's some stuff I'm going to start doing here soon so that I don't have to figure out that it doesn't work on the fly. A little money wasted in the beginning but I'd rather do that than waste a ton of money and time in the future and stall out my build completely! 

Matter of fact I'm starting these things tonight!!! Right after dinner!!


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## IBcivic

welcome to the audison world scoot... pm me if you have connection questions. the lrx 6.9 has alot of possible configs and therefore can seem intimidating at first.


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## IBcivic

chadillac owes me a commission check....


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## scooter99

Oh you know I'll be contacting you stink!!! Thanks for the heads up though!


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## scooter99

Ok so here's an update. 

I've had no time on the weekends to work on my car, becasue I've benn helping my ailing Father-in-law by tiling his shower. Long story but it's taken up the little bit of time on the last couple of weekends that I've had. Now this weekend I'm taking my children to the California State Fair, and then sunday I'm finishing the bathroom. 

The next weekend, weekend of labor day, I'm going to washington to a Dave Matthews Band Venue that's three days and nights. I am, however, considering taking my soldering stuff, heat gun, heatshrink, wires, techflex, etc and making cables in my room. Problem with that is, am I going to have issues with having that stuff in my bag on the plane. Not on the plane like in the cab but checking it. Gotta contact the airlines and see. But I've got tons of downtime in the hotel room so that would be a perfect time to make it happen. Hmmm

I've also been spending some time on the "Making RCA cables" thread. This is what I posted up there today. I'll just copy and paste instead of retyping what I typed. I'm ready to start now! 

Ok so I'm ready to start building wires. I just went into my local electronics shop and they had a ton of Canare Star Quad. I know it's not Gepco, which is what I already have, but I think it'll do just fine. I got 10 ft of Yellow (rear fill ch's), Purple (tweet ch's), Green (mid range ch's), Blue (mid bass ch's), Red (sub ch's). Then I also got 50 ft of black for the left channel, or whatever for all of those. You know how some rca's are red for one channel and black for the other. That was my idea anyway. It'll all be techflexed and heat shrunk anyway, but I'm a little OCD that way and since it was all the same price, why not right!! I got all that for $40.00 and I have in my hands now, instead of waiting for shipping etc. 

And really in comparison I only spent about 10.00 more than I would've on the Gepco because of shipping etc. So I'm ok with that. 

I'm also looking at some din bar stuff to organize my wiring better in the rear. We'll see how that plays out!

That's all for now. Oh gotta remember the camera in washington. Gonna be hard to do all that stuff and not take pictures. You all would castrate me if I did a build with no pics!!!!:laugh:


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## scooter99

Ok here's my new idea for my front stage installs. I'm using the stock area for the Hertz MLK165's (mid bass). I'm altering, completely, the door trim so there's some work to be done there. But here is what I'm going to do to widen the sound area. 

I'm going to cut out the stock speaker grill out of the door car. I'm going to cut above that area so the top of the grill is, basically, removed. For those not familiar with the civic sedan doors, above the stock speaker grill on the door card there is about a 3" area that sinks into a door pocket area. That's what's being removed. Here's the diagram of that. Maybe not as much is coming out as I show here, but you get the idea.

[URL=http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/99scooter/Door%20Pod%20Idea/New%20Door%20Idea/?action=view&current=DSC01616-1.jpg][/URL]

Then I'm going to tilt the midbass up a little bit. I'll be making some angled speaker rings for this. 

Then I'm going to be using a combination of a couple of ideas. One is from Stinky06's thread "06 Civic Coupe rebuild" and Albikes thread "2009 Si Sedan Full System Install". 

This is Stinky's mid range pod:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...50475781-06-civic-coupe-re-build-sspx0440.jpg

This is Albike's mid range pod:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...-sedan-full-system-install-iridium-spkr-2.jpg

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...-sedan-full-system-install-iridium-spkr-3.jpg

This is Albike's tweet pods:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...-sedan-full-system-install-iridium-spkr-1.jpg

Here are pictures, basically relaying the same type information, of the design I'm looking at. 

This is the mid range design. 
[URL=http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/99scooter/Door%20Pod%20Idea/?action=view&current=DSC01616-1.jpg][/URL]

When the mid range pod is built, it will not impede on the open area of the mid bass sound. It will go around the cut out area. Once the pod is built it will be secured to the door card with screws and adhesive. 

The covering of this will be tricky, I know that. I'm planning on using grill cloth, which I already have. There will be a two piece design so that the mid range and the mid bass has it's own separate cover. Not sure if I'll still do this on the mid bass, but I'm going to on the mid range because it'll need accessability if it needs to be removed for any reason. The mid bass can be removed by removing the door card. 

The tweeters will be done in very similar fashion as the picture from Albike's site, above. The difference in mine is that I think I'm going to try to make them a little more contouring. I want it to try and blend into the trim already there. We'll see how it works. The idea is there but I have to put it to work still. 

The other, easier, thought is to take the idea of using the pvc caps and secure them to the bottom piece in the a pillar window. Civic owners know what I'm talking about. It's a separate piece that the a pillar trim. So what I would do is actually take that piece out, put the cap on it and secure it to the piece. Then I'll fiberglass the entire piece to blend it in, instead of this big round piece just sittin on top, and then cover it with the same grill cloth. We'll see, i'm still thinking on this one. I don't really want any speakers visable, as far as the actual speaker. I konw you'll be able to see the different pods but I don't want the equipment visable. 

Thought I would share this for everyone and for my own benifet. I have to refer back to this at times because I forget what I'm going to do. That's what I get for taking so long! 

Ideas, suggestions, comments are welcome. Thanks!


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## scooter99

I can see that I'm getting a lot of views but not many comments, so I'm guessing that means noone's interested in this until I start getting some build pics going. Well let me see what I can get started with! 

Ok so tonight I'm going to try and do some stuff, even though I've managed to screw up my back some how. 

My plan is to actually start by cleaning the garage a little bit and get organized. From the PT Cruiser install and some stuff that I've been doing here and there, the garage looks like a freakin tornado hit it. YUK! After that I'm going to measure up for the cable builds, RCA's, Video, Wire harnesses to the rear, etc. I'm also going to look into getting the metal cut for the battery box. That will be the first big step I make towards the build. 

I'm doing work at my father in laws this weekend so maybe I'll get this stuff welded up. Then I can paint it next week sometime and get it installed! Keep fingers crossed. 

If I get froggish I'll start the build for the rear deck components, but time will tell that story! 

I'm sure that'll take up my entire night so we'll start there. Stay tuned!


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## IBcivic

froggish??...lol...are ya gonna start speakin french???
get some fab-work done and take some pics...guaranteed ,you'll get some comments.

now ...let me get back to my door panel...


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## scooter99

epper:epper: OH **** YOU'RE WORKIN ON YOUR DOOR PANEL!!!!! epper:epper: WOOTWOOT!!

I'm for sure gonna get some stuff done tonight! Already gave the wife the heads up! So I'll just have to get stuf cleaned up and figure out what exactly I'm going to start with! I think I'll get the metal cut out and ready to weld up, then I'll start on the rear deck. If I can get that made, it'll make building the cables that much easier cause I'll know where they'll go. 

I'm going to remove the rear pillar pods and see if I can salvage them. The Hertz speakers I got for the rear, have ears on them so they're not round like the hivi's I have in now. But they're the same size. Might have to mod the Hertz's a little so I don't have to completely rebuild the pods. 

So those are the things that are on deck tonight! 

I can't wait to see those pods.


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## scooter99

Ok I know I've had this coversation before I just can't find it and don't remember the answer to it. 

On the Alpine W505 with the Alpine H701. If I run the Ai-Net cable to the H701, I do or do not still need the RCA's from the W505 to the H701 also? I'm not running the optical cable, due to lack of one and the cost of it if I can find one. 

I'm also running the sirius unit, which needs the Ai-Net cable as well. does that come from the W505 to the H701 to the Sirius unit or from the W505 to the Sirius unit to the H701?

I know I'm not there to hooking these things up yet, but I'm trying to plan out my wires and I need to know how many cables to run from the front to the rear of the car etc. I think I need a short Ai-Net cable though because the sirius unit is going to be in the rear component deck along with everyone else. Right now it's up front. HMMMMMM!!


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## IBcivic

scooter99 said:


> Ok I know I've had this coversation before I just can't find it and don't remember the answer to it.
> 
> On the Alpine W505 with the Alpine H701. If I run the Ai-Net cable to the H701, I do or do not still need the RCA's from the W505 to the H701 also? I'm not running the optical cable, due to lack of one and the cost of it if I can find one.
> 
> I'm also running the sirius unit, which needs the Ai-Net cable as well. does that come from the W505 to the H701 to the Sirius unit or from the W505 to the Sirius unit to the H701?
> 
> I know I'm not there to hooking these things up yet, but I'm trying to plan out my wires and I need to know how many cables to run from the front to the rear of the car etc. I think I need a short Ai-Net cable though because the sirius unit is going to be in the rear component deck along with everyone else. Right now it's up front. HMMMMMM!!


to be honest,i cannot remeber... i think the ai-net carries audio....growing old sux


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## scooter99

I hear ya. It looks to be that way and I also figured out that the proceedure for the sc100. It goes W505 (Head Unit) to the KCA-SC100 (Sirius Unit) input. Then from the KCA-SC100 output to the PXA-H701 input. And then if you have any other units, i.e. cd changer, dvd changer, etc. it goes out of the H701 to that unit. So there you have it. 

Ok on to updates!!


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## scooter99

OK so I actually got to do a couple hours of work tonight! Didn't clean up like I wanted to but I felt like I needed to make some progress and feel like this build would actually get started. 

So to start things off, I was able to track down my neighbor who works on cars for a living. I figured he would be able to weld and so I found out, yes he does. I also found out that the way I was looking to go was not the correct way to go. So I'm glad he was able to point me in the right direction. Not so bad really. Not even way off the mark with my idea. He was talking about looking stock under the hood, and to be quite honest with you, I don't really care about that. I'm gonna have monsterous cables running in and out of the engine bay and carlon under the car and I'm moding a lot of other things as well. So that's not an issue. He did, however, say that the expanded steel would not be enough to hold the battery. And after picking it up and feeling it, I agree. See that's why I work on houses not cars!!! :laugh:

So here's the alterated idea. We're going to take some steel, angle iron, and make a frame for the bottom. Then we're going to put the expanded metal on top of that for filler. We're going to do the same on the sides with the angle iron and expanded metal to hold it in place. Sounds heavy, I know. But until I can find a better solution that's the way I'm pointed right now. So thoughts and ideas are welcome for this one. 

So after that I started to actually do some work and get some stuff done. I've been talking about my rear deck component rack. This was originally going to be an amp rack. But my new amps quickly changed that plan. I liked the idea and needed to figure out where to put the components at so I figured, why the hell not! So that's what I worked on tonight. 

After I started the other build I took out the rear stock tray, one because it rattled with the bass, and because I had the rack idea. I was also doing the rear fill pods at the time. So when that came out I put down some left over carpet on the rear deck because it's dynomatted and all I could see was silver in the back window. NOT GOOD! 

That's where we start. I took that carpet out of the rear deck, after taping it off where it needed to be cut to fit the rear deck. 




Next thing I did was cut out the three restraint clips that are welded on the rear deck. For those who don't know, these are the clips that you would clip your childs saftey seat onto if you were overly paranoid that your two clips below and the seat belt wouldn't hold your childs car seat in place. If you have an accident that severe that it would do that, you don't have to worry because you and your child are most likely dead anyway! Moving on now! 

After that I took the carpet I cut out and traced it onto some mdf and cut it out. I thought I had a picture of this but apparently I got a little too focused on building and not posting. I appologize it won't happen again!! 

So with the board cut out now, I had to organized how I wanted the components to lay out. I also had other issues to watch out for. I have ripples on the rear tray which in between those create a groove. This is perfect for me because they're plenty big enough to run wires through and use as channels for that purpose. So the layout is crutial. This is what I came up with. 


After the compnents are layed out I was able to figure out how much space I would possibly need for my wiring harnesses or terminals. This is that picture. 


This is the layout drawn on the board! 


So I got to thinking after this. 5/8" MDF, components, a lid for it all. HOW HIGH IS THIS GOING TO BE?!? I was worried that with this stuff in here that it would impare my sight behind me. So I stuck it in and did some testing. This is what it looks like. 






So after all the testing I found that it wouldn't impare my sight much at all. It's actually no higher than if I were to have the rear head rests in, which they're not. Or to have the car seats in, which they normally are! So we're good!!


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## scooter99

So I have my layout, I have my spots where the wires need to go through the board. It's time to drill and prep.

I started drilling holes where I marked them off at. The only holes that did not get drilled at this time are the holes for the terminals and harnesses. That is gonna be some serious planning and mapping out! Not ready for that tonight. SO here is the board, drilled!


After the holes were drilled I started thinking. I'm not sure what exactly I'm going to be using to cover this. I don't know yet, I think I might actually just use the carpet I have laying there, which I used for my template. I at least know that's the right size. But if I don't use it anywhere but where the components are, I wanted to make sure the wood color wasn't going to bleed through. My plans are to use grill cloth on the top of this to allow things to breath. I am going to make sides around it, but at this point I'm thinking that I may just use the grill cloth, staple it or glue it to the bottom of the board and stretch it over the top onto the sides. Then I'll either staple it down or glue it down. Then the black carpet will go over that in the cubby for the components. Clear as mud!!! 

So all that being said I decided to paint the whole thing black. Well most of it. I taped off where the compoents are located at. 


Then I painted it using some left over black primer I had laying around from another job. This is the end result. At least for tonight. 


Like I said before, I managed to mess up my back some how and by this time it was getting pretty stiff. Besides that the Giants were playing and I was ready to call it a night. I should be able to get some more done tomorrow, but we'll see. It's gonna be a pretty long day! 

That's all for now! Progress thought!!


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## IBcivic

nice to finally see some progress.... oke:
i can just immagine the reflection off the dynamat+the cali sun....
where are you going to be mounting the audison twins?


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## scooter99

:lol: Yeah I deserve that!!

To answer the question I'm not 100% sure yet. I am planning a flase floor in the trunk, but not sure how I'll position them yet. I have to think about some stuff and positions. But when I do you'll be the second to know, behind me!! :laugh:


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## scooter99

Ok so I did a not so good thing today. I ended up steering away from my back deck rack today and went onto something else. Not sure why I did it other than the fact that I have issues. 

I was looking at some stuff in the back for this build and I decided to take out the rear a pillars, with the rear fill in them, and I ended up going to town on those. I got soooooooooooooo sidetracked with it! Before I knew it I was tearing them apart and building new ones. I took a look at the new Hertz coax's that were to go in there and they would've fit with some alterations, but I would've had some issues with putting a screen over them and it would've just looked funky! So off to tearing I went. I ended up getting one mostly done. I do have pics but they'll have to wait. It's 12:15 am here and I'm ready for bed. 

So aside of it being sunday and having a free day, I had to do the lawns, go grocery shopping, and the Giant's were on trying to sweep the Colorado Rockies to tie the wildcard race! Huge Giant's fan and I had to watch that shat!!! WE WIN BABY!!! Anyway that pretty much took up most of the day as well as other things to do to get ready for the week. 

So tonight I sat down at the computer and grabbed a note pad and a pen and started figuring out my wiring block diagram. This will essentially be my secondary fuse box, except its in the rear deck on the components rack, and it doesn't have any fuses in it. But I've got it nailed down. I'm going to have 6 - 8 position terminal strips, and 1 - 4 position terminal strip. Along with those I'll be putting in 3 - relays. Why so much someone might be asking? Well here's the list of things I have to run. 

Alpine IVA-W505
PAC SWI-JACK
PAC TR-7 Bypass
Alpine PXA-H701
Alpine PKG-M780 (Headrest screens)
Alpine KCA-SC100 (Sirius)
Neon tubes (for under seating and in trunk)
Neon dots (for in the door handles and other accent lighting)
And Relays.

So needless to say there's a lot of crap to wire up. But it shouldn't be a problem. I've designed a pretty detailed diagram. Almost an instruction sheet. I just ordered my terminal strips too. So once those get in, I'll be prepping them and installing them. I should have the component deck done either this week or early next week. I'm on vacation starting Friday thru Monday. We'll see what happens. 

Pics hopefully tomorrow. Night all!!


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## scooter99

Alright here we go. I'm off to Washington this weekend and I'm gonna do some work while I'm there. I packaged up all my, well not all all, but most of my wiring to do some prep work. I'm planing on doing all my rca's (building them). That's front to rear, two sets, video front to rear one piece, and then rear deck processor to trunk amps, 6 pair. I'm also building my wire harness to go from the front behind the head unit, to the rear deck rack. I'll also be techflexing all the speaker wire and putting on the connector that I'm using for the three way up front. Pics will be below on that one. Lastly I'm planning on techflexing my 8ga power wire for the power terminals in the harness as well as an 8ga ground wire for the same purpose. I think that's it, but that'll take a ton of time. Good thing we're in a city where there's nothing to do. I'll be plenty busy until concert time! Golfed last year but wasn't impressed with the course so I'm more into this this time! Here come the pics.

Packaged and ready to go!!! Just waiting for the ups guy now to come pick it up! 


Well I thought I had pictures of the plugs I'm using but I must have deleted them. I'll take more pics when I get there on friday! I'll have plenty of pics to take this weekend. I'm taking my camera too. Don't worry folks there'll be plenty of pics to browse through!!


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## scooter99

Yep I just checked my other thread "06 Civic EX Build Log" and there's no pic there. I must have erased it thinking I'd show it again. AND I WILL!!!


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## IBcivic

bon voyage?....

tip>bring a good ohm meter to ''ring'' each cable to make sure that you don't have any shorts or leakage. i had a few that the flux from the solder created high resistance bridge between the +&- . sprayed contact cleaner and voila! also, if you have a female plug,use it as a holder and heat sink. if you do happen to soften the plastic in your rca's , the female plug will keep the male pin in place while it cools.


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## scooter99

Thanks for the tips! I hadn't thought of that before. Can you enlighten me on the "ring" thing? I don't have a female rca but I have a couple days, I can get one before I leave. That's a great idea actually, simply besides the melting thing, for protection of scratching the chrome rca jack from the "third hands". I'll add those to my list of things to take. Course the package has already been shipped to the hotel but I'm sure these couple things won't be an issue to pack in my bag.


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## IBcivic

''ringing'' is a term we use in the field , meaning ohm-ing the wires.


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## IBcivic

my first attempt to properly solder my rca's led to a crooked center pin, 'cause i softened the plastic. the only way i found to rectify the problem,was to get it hot again and plug it into a female rca and a quick dunk into cold water.
but i never ended up using it...it's now a just in case rca...


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## emperorjj1

nice!


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## scooter99

Ok so I have updates for everyone. I had issues with uploading pics, but I think I have it figured out. Standbye!!!


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## ClassicCoupe

scooter99 said:


> So after all the testing I found that it wouldn't impare my sight much at all. It's actually no higher than if I were to have the rear head rests in, which they're not. Or to have the car seats in, which they normally are! So we're good!!


Not to criticize your work, but I have a couple of questions regarding putting your electronic components on display on the rear shelf.
- Are you at all worried about people breaking in to steal your expensive hardware?
- Are you worried about the kind of heat the components will endure underneath the rear glass?

Make sure the components are fastened very securely. I once saw some photos of what a 3 lbs box did to the back of the head of a front seat passenger after flying off the rear shelf in a 40 mph accident.
It wasn't a pretty sight....


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## scooter99

No criticzing taken. Those are all great questions and I have answers, I swear I don't work at Radio Shack.:laugh:

"- Are you at all worried about people breaking in to steal your expensive hardware?"

No I'm not to answer simply. In detail, the reasons, these are going to be coverd up with dark grill cloth and the components won't be seen. Secondly the tint in my rear window is really dark and it's hard to see through it at all. I've tinted all windows btw. Thirdly I have an alarm, not that it means anything, but I have one. Lastly, here's my thing. I have expensive equipment throughout the car. The headunit is in full view, minus the tinted windows, I have nice rims, I have head rest monitors, and if you look good enough you can see that i have money invested in this vehicle. It's like I tell my wife about our house, if someone wants it bad enough then they're going to take it. I'm not going to live my life in fear of someone breaking into my car. I'll replace it eventually, at some point if that happens. I've done it before. Now that's not to say I want it to happen and so what, but it's just my way of thinking. I'm pretty good about where I leave my car and what I do with it. I don't install in the driveway where people can see it, I don't leave it out at all ever, and I park it in the back yard where it's near impossible to get to it. When it's back there the alarm is one. If someone is in my back yard breaking into my car I have probable cause to protect my family...........:rifle: 

I think I've made my point. Although it probably sounds like I tried to make it harshly. Not the case. Just so you know. 

"- Are you worried about the kind of heat the components will endure underneath the rear glass?"

Simply answered, no. Again I have dark tinted windows which actually seem to do a decent job with heat, and if it's so hot outside that it's going to cause that big a heat problems, the a/c is at full tilt anyway. I have also thought of fans, which I have, and will probably use as well. So this has been thought about and will for sure be addressed.

"Make sure the components are fastened very securely. I once saw some photos of what a 3 lbs box did to the back of the head of a front seat passenger after flying off the rear shelf in a 40 mph accident.
It wasn't a pretty sight.... 

This has also been thought of. I'm planning to use t-nuts from under the board to attach the components to the board. I'm also planning to use T-nuts from above the board and attaching it, in several places, to the rear deck from underneith it. Also, and I know some people are going to cringe when I say this but it really makes since. I have to kids who sit back there. They're car seats are taller than the board is going to finish at, and the board will be approximately 2 inches from the backs of those seats. If it does break loose, which it shouldn't, it will rest up against those seats. 

Hopefully that answers all your questions. Thanks for bringing those things up. Those are all great things that would've come in to picture greatly, had I not thought of them. With my build, however, safety is key as well as asthetics (sp?). But again thanks for asking.


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## ClassicCoupe

scooter99 said:


> No criticzing taken. Those are all great questions and I have answers, I swear I don't work at Radio Shack.:laugh:
> 
> "- Are you at all worried about people breaking in to steal your expensive hardware?"
> 
> No I'm not to answer simply. In detail, the reasons, these are going to be coverd up with dark grill cloth and the components won't be seen. Secondly the tint in my rear window is really dark and it's hard to see through it at all. I've tinted all windows btw. Thirdly I have an alarm, not that it means anything, but I have one. Lastly, here's my thing. I have expensive equipment throughout the car. The headunit is in full view, minus the tinted windows, I have nice rims, I have head rest monitors, and if you look good enough you can see that i have money invested in this vehicle. It's like I tell my wife about our house, if someone wants it bad enough then they're going to take it. I'm not going to live my life in fear of someone breaking into my car. I'll replace it eventually, at some point if that happens. I've done it before. Now that's not to say I want it to happen and so what, but it's just my way of thinking. I'm pretty good about where I leave my car and what I do with it. I don't install in the driveway where people can see it, I don't leave it out at all ever, and I park it in the back yard where it's near impossible to get to it. When it's back there the alarm is one. If someone is in my back yard breaking into my car I have probable cause to protect my family...........:rifle:
> 
> I think I've made my point. Although it probably sounds like I tried to make it harshly. Not the case. Just so you know.
> 
> "- Are you worried about the kind of heat the components will endure underneath the rear glass?"
> 
> Simply answered, no. Again I have dark tinted windows which actually seem to do a decent job with heat, and if it's so hot outside that it's going to cause that big a heat problems, the a/c is at full tilt anyway. I have also thought of fans, which I have, and will probably use as well. So this has been thought about and will for sure be addressed.
> 
> "Make sure the components are fastened very securely. I once saw some photos of what a 3 lbs box did to the back of the head of a front seat passenger after flying off the rear shelf in a 40 mph accident.
> It wasn't a pretty sight....
> 
> This has also been thought of. I'm planning to use t-nuts from under the board to attach the components to the board. I'm also planning to use T-nuts from above the board and attaching it, in several places, to the rear deck from underneith it. Also, and I know some people are going to cringe when I say this but it really makes since. I have to kids who sit back there. They're car seats are taller than the board is going to finish at, and the board will be approximately 2 inches from the backs of those seats. If it does break loose, which it shouldn't, it will rest up against those seats.
> 
> Hopefully that answers all your questions. Thanks for bringing those things up. Those are all great things that would've come in to picture greatly, had I not thought of them. With my build, however, safety is key as well as asthetics (sp?). But again thanks for asking.


Sounds like you've thought about it and figured it out.


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## scooter99

Ok so when I last left off, except about 5 minutes ago when I answered those questions, I had gone off track a little and started doing the rear fill pods again. Here are those pics. I'm not going to write much, so if you have questions, just ask. I'm not done with these by a long shot, but this is the progress that has been made.

These are the original pods:








Rear fill drivers (full range) in pods:




Comparisons of old and new:




Stripped the old pods down to the base. Starting over! The reason is because if you look at the speakers, above, you'll notice that the Hertz had a round body, like the others, however they have these 4 tabs where you attach it to the pod. The other drivers have the holes in the round body and while that was an idea to just drill new holes, it just wasn't possible. So we're starting over!



Also I was going to take off the vinyl anyway, because I wasn't happy with the look and I'm going to cover it to match the rear deck covering.


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## scooter99

Now "the build":

Started with cardboard to cut out a template. This will keep the rings as small as possible, as well as, have them large enough to do what I need to. 
















That's about it for this. I went on vacation to washington to see Dave Matthews Band for 3 shows. I did some work up there in my hotel room because, well, we were in Wenatchee, Washington. It's Wenatchee, Washington and there's nothing to do there. So I played Movie flip with the remote, and made some wires. Those are up comming . Stay tuned!


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## scooter99

ClassicCoupe said:


> Sounds like you've thought about it and figured it out.



Well I'm hoping so. But yes I'm definitely taking my time in thinking this stuff out and planing it as well. Thanks!


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## scooter99

Ok here we go with some more progress. This is the first time I've ever built rca's. Also the first time I've ever gone to this extent in doing an install. Pics.......

This is how I sent it, perfectly square box.


This is how I recieved it!! GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR Damn UPS!!



Checking it out. Everything looks intact but it looks like it's been thrown around and kicked down the road and crap!! 





Ok everything accounted for!



So it's hard to see, with this luxury carpet and all, but I obviously couldn't bring my car along with me, so I had to improvise. The night before I shipped everything, I took some string and basically ran it along the lines that I was going to install. This is how I could tell how long everything needed to be. Once I did that I noted things down on a note pad and had a reference of what I was using what string for. Clear as mud? Good!



Running wires.



Then I had to make labels. Wow there's a ton of labels. These aren't even all of them! 



Then the wires all got labeled and techflexed. Each label is coverd with a piece of clear heat shrink tubing to protect them. This is where that diagram, that I mentioned a while back, came in handy!


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## scooter99

Flexed and finished. This is the main wire harness that's going to feed things to and from the dash unit from the rear component deck. 



Next is the power wire, 8 ga., that I'm using to supply the 12v from the battery. I actually did this and then decided I don't have to go all the way up front and that I'm going to most likely change this and make it shorter to come off of the rear battery in the trunk. 







Ground, also 8ga.



Next is the speaker wire for the front stage three way set up. I'm using Tsunami 12ga. twisted pair for this. Overkill for some but I got a good deal on a 250' roll. Why not right! 

On the ends of the wire in this picture I have put on some connectors that slide into the plug. Tight fit for sure! You can see the little white plug in the background. After this was done I techflexed it and labeled the wires. 



Connector on.



Labeled.



Flexed the first one.



Not the second. Reasons:

1. I screwed up on this one and have to redo it. I had said earlier that it was a tight fit with the big wires. Well I put one set in backwards and I don't have room, because of the tightness, to push down the tab to pull the wires out and twist them around. So I'll clip em and do another plug. The plugs are only 4.00 each.

2. I didn't have enough techflex to do each wire, like I want to, so I did all three in the same flex line. Don't like it. It's too bulky and just looks bad. So I ordered some more flex and I'll redo it so each line is flexed individually. That way it will look better and on the install it will lay flatter. I'm picky what can I say!!


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## scooter99

Now onto the real challenge for me. I started with the video cable. I figured I'd tried this once before and had some issues with it. So I thought if I could do it well this time I would be doing ok. 

I'm using a Neutrik connector with some Belden RG59 coax cable. 





Soldered









Then I had to make two runs of RCA's to go from the head unit to the rear component deck. One for the Processor, and one for the Monitor Brain. With these I'm using the Gepco wire and the same Neutrik Connectors.

Laying them out. 


Wires exposed.


Connected or setting in place for solder.


Soldered


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## scooter99

I used heatshrink to protect the wires. 


This is the head unit side so it has the drain wire. This is separated in the unit by a second layer of heatshrink in between the wires. I soldered on a separate wire so that it can be connected to ground easier. 


Then they were labeled flexed and done!

I used white and black heatshrink to show these being the main set of rca's. They were also labeled. The two cables were flexed together until the last, approx, 6". They were heatshrinked together at that point but separated into two and techflexed individually. 


This is the set for the rear fill, or monitor brain. I used yellow heatshrink for these to show it being different as well as being labeled. This set was put together the same way as the main set. Separated approx 6" from the end. 


The short runs of RCA's were done with Canare Star Quad. I had originally bought the Gepco wire for these, however realized not too long ago that I didn't have enough to do the entire project. Instead ordering more online last week and risk it not being here for thsi project, I went down to my local electronic store downtown and they had this Canare in different colors. So here it is. 

It goes color for right side, black for left side.

Rear Fill


Tweets


Mid Range


Mid Bass


Subs


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## scooter99

So after thinking about all that, and now showing these, I realize I should change this. I used the yellow for the subs, but I have rear fill in there, and should be using yellow for those to go along with the theme of yellow being for the monitors etc. Just me being picky again.

Started the rca's.


Again heat shrink on the wires to protect them. Also labeled with clear heatshrink over it.




Sub set done, for now.


I have two amps I'm running. One six channel and one four channel. I'm planning on techflexing all the rca's for each one together. So the six channel's of rca's will be in one flex, separated at the end's like the main runs, and then four channels for the other amp the same way. The colors will be shown somehow. 

Now the changes I have to make are going to be the speaker wire, changing the one plug and then flexing each line individually. Then I'll end up, I'm sure, changing this yellow line to the rear fill instead of the subs. We'll see how much it drives me nuts. But to me it makes since! The only other thing I may change is the drain lines on the main rca's. For now I'm thinking of connecting the two drain lines into one line. Then I'm not trying to connect four separate lines into one. I'll only be connecting two separate lines to one. Make since? Ok then. 

So that's all the progress I've made for now. I shipped the box out yesterday when we left, but UPS doesn't ship on labor day so it went out today. So when I get it in this week, provided it's all intact, I'll finish them up as I can. I also have to wait unitl I get the rest of the flex and I have to get some more clear heatshrink. I feel pretty productive though. 

Comments are all welcome. Thanks!


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## IBcivic

with all that soldering you did , you will need to pay the $250 for smoking in a non smoking room.

nice job man!


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## Shelbrain

Impressive wiring job. I'm sure it will look outstanding. The detailed pics are great as well.


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## arrivalanche

stinky06 said:


> with all that soldering you did , you will need to pay the $250 for smoking in a non smoking room.
> 
> nice job man!


i was going to mention that to. whats the deal with the hotel room? 

Also, regarding the setup, I just dont get it. Realisticly there is no reason to display modules like that. They are meant to be hidden away not put in a rear deck. Also, if you are putting bass back there it wont be good for them to be constantly being beat up. A clean system is one that is simplistic and does its job well, not one that has stuff everywhere. To each their own though.


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## scooter99

Actually it didn't smell that bad but thanks stink for the laugh! 

To answer the question about the hotel room, I went to Wenachee Washington for a 3 concert venu for Dave Matthews Band. Wenatchee Washington has nothing to do in it. So I decided I have work todo and instead of just sitting on my ass watching tv all day, I thought I'd be productive with this build. I don't have a ton of free time to be able to do this type of stuff at home because of little ones running around. Anyway that's why I did it. 

As far as the showing components, I don't know. Just wanted to do something creative and that's why I did it. I understand the shaking etc with it and the bass and stuff. I've actually been thinking about this, not much, but some. I may use some rubber grommets to act as a shock absorber, if i want to worry about it. But here's the deal. There's going to be a sheet of 5/8" mdf under the components. That's going to be deadened. The rear deck metal is goign to be deadened. Between the metal and the rack I'll be putting some closed cell foam I have (1/4" thick). Under the deck I'll be putting another sheet of 5/8" mdf. I think it'll be pretty solid but whatever. I'm not so worried about it. 

I think I'm just trying to be creative and do what I think is going to look good, and so far I'm pretty pleased with it. 

By the way stink, I tried to dry fit those pvc caps on the dash grills and there's not enough room for it. The caps are too wide and the angle between the dash and the windshield doesn't allow for that to happen. I'll keep thinking about what I wanna do there.


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## IBcivic

mounting the amps on the deck also takes care of space issues....civic owners will agree that anything going in the trunk takes up valuable real estate


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## scooter99

Yeah. I wish I could put these two amps in the rear deck. Then I could've put the components in the chamber behind the seat. Then the trunk would've been completely clean. Oh well. It'll all work out I'm sure!


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## scooter99

Ok see part of the problem with this world, is that I continue to find things I think I can do and want to try. Civic owners check this out!! I'm doing this as soon as I get done with this build. Part of the reason is because, I want to, and second is because it solves my headrest upholstery issues!! Also it's way cheaper, if you can do it yourself, than doing Katskinz. Here's the link! GREAT WRITE UP TOO!!

DIY Fabric Change on Seats - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum


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## scooter99

WOOTWOOT, Delivery!!! 
I got my wires back from Washington. 



I also got my 100 feet of techflex for my speaker wires I was talking about reflexing individualy. 



Looks like someone's gonna be doing some work tonight!! epper:


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## scooter99

Oh it's all the way on now!! I was searching another website for some stuff on civic's and came across a re upholstering tutorial. Peeked my interest since I have to re do the headrests for the tv screens. So I looked into some Microsuede and ordered a couple samples. VIOLA!!! OH CRAP what a great look! I ordered a few samples and looked at them in the car today and I've decided on a couple. I'm going with a two tone look on the seats. I'm going with the center panels on the seats in a charcoal grey which actually matches the lighter of the two greys in the car perfectly. Then I'm going to go with the same patern on the head rests. The sides of the headrests are goign to be black and the middle, front, back, will be the grey. I'm sooooo juiced about this. 

Now I just need to get to building so that when the system gets done I can start this project. Another thought I have is on the steering wheel. There is an outline that surrounds the buttons etc and it's silver in color, at least on mine it's silver. I'm going to order some light grey or silver colord suede and do that as well. I'm also thinking about trying to sew some together to do the shifter knob. Reason being because when it's hot outside, I get in my car after sitting for a while, and it's FREAKING ON FIRE!!! So I'm trying to get the metal to go away so it's not so harsh from the elememnts. It freezing cold in the morning as well when it's cold outside. So it's pretty dramatic depending on the temp outside. 

SO MANY IDEAS SO LITTLE TIME!!!


----------



## IBcivic

linky?


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## scooter99

I thought about that. Here you go buddy!!

DIY Fabric Change on Seats - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum


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## IBcivic

those look like my pods.. or his pods look like mine....what-ever...i haven't seen this build previous to doing mine,i swear....

mine will look better,though....lol j/k...or am i?


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## scooter99

You know that was actually my first thought, that you saw this and that's where you got your idea. I'm wishing more and more that I got an SI instead of an EX. Man everything I ever see is for an SI and it's hard for me, and my pea brain, to convert things and ideas to my EX. Oh well it is what it is. Just had a minor set back on my car today. DAMN IT!!! So I have been waiting for some barrier strips so that I can get started on the wiring of this component board. It's been over a week and I haven't gotten it yet. SO I went on to paypal and checked my history and it hasn't hit pay pal yet. SO I went to where I ordered them, and apparently I didn't send the order!! :laugh: So I'll be going by my local electronics shop to see if they have anything that will work for me. I got some other ones before and have them sitting in the garage but they're not wide enough for the terminals I'm using. I'm using gold stinger terminals, cause I'm an idiot and bought them when I started this stupid project 300 years ago. So now I have about 20 packages of 4 in the garage. No better time then the present to use em. But with the gold terminals and the cold barrier strip, it would've looked NICE!!!! We'll see what happens.


----------



## IBcivic

hey do you still have those r-f battery terminals?


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## scooter99

Yes sir I do.


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## IBcivic

pm me a price,plz


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## 3fish

Hey Scooter,

Many thanks for taking time to detail all your work. I just love book knowledge, but I need to see things done before it makes sense! Good luck with the install.


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## scooter99

I completely understand. Just need time right now to get to it. My wife and I have suddenly been hit with some financial issues so I've been basically working two jobs and about 6 days a week right now. I'll get there, but things need to just settle down a bit first. I'm sure everyone understands that part!


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## IBcivic

hey scoot,hope things are workin out for the better.


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## scooter99

Well as a kind of indication, I'm at work right now, and it's 8:30pm. Can anyone say MIDNIGHT quit time!!!! 

So I thought the money crap was gonna go away, then after camping this last weekend, my wife dropped the new bombshell on me. She wants a travel trailer to go camping more. I of course am fully on board with this idea, however, guess where the money is gonna come from. Gonna have to get this car in gear or it's gonna fall by the wayside and I"ll be installing all my stuff for the car, in the trailer. AHHGG!!


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## scooter99

Ok so last night I sat down and set up a schedule and details of the install. Of course I'm not going to post that here, cause it's just words and everyone's tired of me just posting words. 

Here's the jist of it though. I'm starting On saturday, October 3, 2009, and by my schedule I should be done by November 14, 2009. Now that end date is dependant on help with tuning my system. 

Boostedrex told me at one point he'd come help me, and hopefully he's still willing, so I'm working with his schedule to finalize things. 

So here we go, again!


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## IBcivic

wow,awesome,man. i haven't dealt with zach much,but he seems to be a really cool dude.


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## scooter99

Yeah he's been cool for sure!


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## ///M Kevin

Can't wait to see the final stuff. Good luck.


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## scooter99

Ok so I got the first step of my schedule done. Although, it was supposed to be done friday night and then yesterday doing step 2, which was the battery swap, then tonight was supposed to be finishing wires. 

Well Friday night my brother called me in an emergency cause he was moving out and had some stuff to fix, and whatever, Friday night was shot! Then I was going to do some stuff on friday night to get ready to fix my mother in laws cabinet saturday, well whatever saturday was shot. Plus I took the family out for dinner saturday night. So today we went out for a Walk For Autism Event, our friends son has autism. The it just so happened that there was a rib cook off next door!! OH MY GOD!!! Couldn't miss that!! So we came home, finished our Ribs and lunch, as well as my niners, then I've been working in the garage all night since, well, about 230, 300. Got the entire garage cleaned up and read for working, then I fixed the speaker wires that I flip flopped in the molex plug. Then I decided to get started on the battery swap, getting it ready for when I do swap it out. 

THAT'S WHEN IT HAPPENED!!! 

I got everything out to get to work. Well what little work was going to get done tonight anyway. Tsunami Positive Digital Meter Terminal, Tsunami Negative Terminal, Kinetic Chrome Terminal Posts, and lastly The Kinetic HC1800 battery. That Bish is weighty!! So I've got my products laid out on my nice freshly clean workbench, and I'm ready to put these few things together. 




Terminal posts go on without a hitch, smooth, and clean looking as you can see here!! 




I go to put on my Tsunami Terminals, and what's the [email protected]#& is wrong with these pictures!! :cussing: 




This brings me to my pissed off question and my delemma. WHY THE [email protected]#& WOULD A COMPANY MAKE A PRODUCT THAT ISN'T GOING TO FIT ANOTHER PRODUCT IS'S SUPPOSED TO GO ON!?! AAAAAAAGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!!!! 
So now I have to figure out what I'm going to do. I have a couple options, as I see it. They are these:

1) I can bust out the dremel with the small grinding wheel and grind out the battery terminals until they fit properly. 

2) I can forgo the chrome posts, they're not going to be seen anyway, and go back with the original lead posts, and use a post brush and see if I can grind those down a little to make the terminals fit. 

My question to that is, if anyone knows, is there a difference in the production of the product by using the chrome posts vs. the lead posts? 

I"M IN A FREAKIN PICKLE HERE!! I guess I could also just find new terminals and see if those will work, but I'm not that wild about spending a bunch of money to "see" if something will work. Then if it doesn't, going through the trouble to return them! Hmmmmm! 

So I tried to make up a little bit by doing some prep work and it back fires on me! The bright side I guess is, I didn't take out the other battery, alter the wires which need to be altered, and then find out this crappy problem. I guess I'll move on to another project this week until I can figure out how to remidey this one! Sigh!

Ideas and comments are welcome, and requested please!


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## kyheng

Fast 1, grind the battery terminal which will void the warranty I guess. Else wait for few days and order other battery terminals.


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## scooter99

Well I'm thinking already that's what I'm gonna have to do. The thing is though, with these batteries, the post's are screw on and off so it's not effecting the battery itself, just the post. I'm gonna sit on this one a bit and see what I can come up with. Thanks for the response.


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## scooter99

Ok well, things are about to come to a screeching hault again. I just found out tonight when I got home from softball game, that my father in law has been put into hospis care. So things are undoubtedly going to stop for a while. Sorry guys, I was just getting geared up for this and sometimes the uncontrolable happens. I'll keep you updated if I can get anything done. I'm sure everyone understands, however, if I don't.


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## scooter99

Ok so given the last update, I'm good to go at the moment but things can chage drastically at any time. So in the meantime I finished with stage 2. Remember stage one was to clean the garage. Stage 2 was to get the Kinetik HC1800 installed. I thought this was gonna be an easy install, no problem, 30 minutes 60 minutes tops. F*$& I was wrong. Story of my life, I hit problems every where I turned. 

So here's the first thing I was dealing with, in the battery terminals not fitting properly. Couldn't get them on very far at all. So after sitting on it all night and all day thinking, I decided screw it I'll just bust out the dremel! WORKED LIKE A DREAM!!! So we're rollin right!!! Here's the difference.

Last night: 


Tonight:


Last night:


Tonight


So here we go with the install. Actually, hold that, had to go mow the lawns really quick and get the kids in the bath. You know daily routines, althought I don't mow the lawns daily, but you get the rest. Ok so here we go! 

So here's the current set up that I'm about to replace. Optima Yellow Top battery, and Rockford Fosgate Battery Termials, or tanks as I like to refer them too! Tsunami dual fuse distro block, staying! Tsunami dual non fused distro block, is being eliminated. 


So here those are on the garage floor. Out with the old!! 


Here's the open hole, ready for the new goodness! Kinetik HC1800, woohoo........WTF!!! What is that?!? 




**** a broken terminal on one of the 1/0ga ground wires I replaced! Damn it, there goes more time, issue number 2! So since I'm taking that one out, the one to the battery is on the same grounding point so I decided to take that one out and replace it as well. Soldering wasn't that great on that one, and the heat shrink was terribly done as well! I can do better I swear!


----------



## scooter99

So after a little bit of soldering, some techflex, and some heatshrink, we have new wires! Oh I also labled the Neg. to the battery. I had a scrap piece of the blue, which I'm using for the pos. side, but I didn't want to cut off a piece from the roll in case I need it for the trunk. So it's labled and it's all good!


Installed


Labled


So now it's time to drop the heavy batch in the hole. We're ready to finish. It was a tight squeeze but I got it in there. Wouldn't sit flat but it's sitting pretty good. I actually could've just left it there and there's no way in hell it's going anywhere, but I didn't wanna take that chance. So I used the original threaded j bolts, and bought a cheapie plastic clamp down for now. I'm planning on getting a better one, but for now this will do the job. 


Now time to install wires and get this thing put to rest. It's been way longer than I was planning on working on this and I'm ready to be done. UNTIL!!!!! YES THE THRID ISSUE OF THE F-ING NIGHT!!! 

So I was so pissed off at this, I didn't even take pictures of it. Here's what happened. I got the pos. side all hooked up and ready to go. Distro block wired, 4 ga, from the fuse block wired, everything wired for pos. Then I started on the Neg. block. I only had two wires to hook up there, 1/0 ga ground and the little tiny ground from the pos block for the digital gauge. Got those put on and nice and snug. Ok so keys in had, cause the alarm is gonna go off and I wanna be ready for that, and here we go, alarm and chirp chirp and we're seated. I start tightening the set screw for the clamp and notice it's tightening but not very well. I unscrew it and start over again without pulling off the block, so as not to go through the alarm thing. SO I start tightening and it just isn't going. Figured out that the threads were stripped. Need a longer screw. Got that from the work bench and started in. Next thing I know, I go to make sure it's tight cause I can't tighten it anymore, and the entire thing comes off. I twisted too much and pulled it off. But that's not the issue, now I can't get the damn screw out of the hole to figure out what the hell is going on. 

Quickly thinking I grabbed another digital block I had in the box to sell, and used it to get hooked up. So instead of a dead car in the garage and my wifes out all night, I did this so I could move it. I'll worry about replacing it tomorrow. 

So disaster 3 averted, for now!

Got everything hooked up, after the third alarm fiasco at late night, and we're golden. Here is the final product, until I can get another neg terminal. 


Got the car started up and we're blue!!!


In case you couldn't see it, not that it's anything to brag about, but here's the voltage at idle, no load. Not sure what that means but here you go!! 


In the dark cause, well, I just like the blue light in the dark!!! Consistant on the voltage. 


So there you have it, a 30 minute to an hour job, taking the batter have of 4 hours to complete!!! DAMN IT I'M TIRED!!! I was gonna go to bed tonight at 9:00. That just didn't happen. Oh well, that's why we love this game right!!!  

Now it's 12:17 AM and I'm going to bed. 

The good news is, not that I like to be happy about someone else's misfortune, but my day care lady who watches my daughter is sick, so guess who gets to stay home tomorrow. Gonna get crackin on Stage 3, finishing wires!!!! 

Stay tuned we're rollin!!!!!!


----------



## scooter99

Ok I've got some questions for folks. I'm thinking I may go to the Audison Connection accessories. Here's my plan, and I'd like some thoughts on this stuff please. There are a couple of reasons that I want to change. Number one is the lack of trust I now have with the Tsunami Battery Terminals. Not happy with those at all. So since I have Audison and Hertz gear going in, why not stick with the rest of it. Besides that I am having trouble finding things with Tsunami to match etc. And I'm a little anal about matching stuff. Anyway!

Here's my plan.

Starting with the front and the Kinetik HC1800. I'm looking at the Positive Terminal of BBC 41P. This is a fused terminal, only one fuse but space saver none the less. 

From there I will be running a 1/0ga line to this SFH 11WP, in line water proof fuse holder, which will then continue to the alternator as part of the "Big 3".

Back to the HC1800, I'm looking at the Negative Battery Terminal SBC 41N. There will be a 1/0 ga ground line from the chassis ground to this terminal. 

From the BBC 41P Pos terminal, using the fuse on that terminal, a 1/0 ga line will run to the rear of the car where it will terminate into a SFD 41C multi distribution block. This is a fused and non fused distro block. An all in one, if you will!

From this on the fused side, I'll run another 1/0 ga power line to an SBC 41P positive non fused battery terminal.

This will reside on a Kinetik HC800.
From the second fused spot on the SFD 41C I'll be running a 4 ga power line to the Audison LRx 6.9 amplifier. 
From the third fused spot on the SFD 41C I'll be running a 4 ga power line to the Audison LRx 4.1K. 
From the fourth fused spot on the SFD 41C I'll be running an 8 ga power line to the distribution block in the rear deck that will power all constant power to the components of the system.
Back to the SFD 41c non fused side. 
I'll be running a 1/0 ga line from the chassis ground, possibly a new hole tapped into the frame, to the SFD 41C non fused in. 
Non fused output one will run a 1/0 ga. ground line to a second SBC 41N (first was at the front on the Kinetik HC1800). 

This will also reside on the Kinetik HC800 but on the negative side of the battery.
The second output on the non fused side will run a 4 ga ground line to the Audison LRx 6.9 amplifier.
The third output on the non fused side will run a 4 ga ground line to the Audison LRx 4.14k.
The fourth output on the non fused side will run an 8ga ground line to the rear deck. This will supply the ground to the components. 

So that's about it. My biggest question to all this, aside from where the hell do I get Audison Connection gear at, is can I run the power like this through that SFD 41C to the Kinetik HC800? Or do I need an independant run from the front Kinetik HC1800 to the rear Kinetik HC800, then to the distro block? 

What does everyone think of this?


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## scooter99

Got some RCA's done today! Pics up later!


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## kyheng

^Well, depends what you want. Audison gears are pretty expensive, considering most of them are covered. For me, I won get them unless got a dirt cheap bargain.


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## emperorjj1

nice. damn id love to put amps on the rear deck. only problem is usaci trunk class disqualification.


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## scooter99

Oh I'm not putting the amps on the rear deck. I wish I could, but they're too long for the rear deck. So I'm putting the components there. 

As for the Audison gear, I'm finding out they're expensive. That stuff I just posted that I want is looking like it's gonna cost me about 400.00 before shipping. THAT'S JUST CRAZY! But at the same time I'm sure that I can buy a piece at a time and just switch it out for what I have already. The only concern at the moment is the negative battery terminal clamp. I'm using a positive one for now cause the other one stripped out. But I'm most likely going to buy those two things first.


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## scooter99

Ok so I said I'd post up wires. Here's some that I got done. Slow going but here's some that I did yesterday. I have gotten some done today and I'll get those taken and posted up tonight or tomorrow. 

Sub Left Channel (Black)


Sub Right Channel (Red)




Rear Fill Left Channel (Black)


Rear Fill Right Channel (Yellow) To match with the video color, since rear fill is only used for the head rest screens.




Mid Bass Left Channel (Black)


Mid Bass Right Channel (Violet)


I started to fix my molex connector with the speaker wire going to it from the back of the car. You can see here that the one set of wires was flipped opposite of the other two sets. Must have been pretty involved in a movie while I was doing this!! You can see in the pic that there are two silver wires and a blue wire. Should be all three silver wires on that side! Oops!!
 

However after I got the wires separated from the molex plug, that I had put on in Washington in my hotel room, I realized that I had bought the wrong size techflex. The stuff I have is too small and is a biotch to put on the big wire sleeve.


----------



## scooter99

So I ordered more today and since I'm waiting on those I think I'll actually buy new plugs as well. The reason I'm not using these is because of two things. Number one I can't find the female part of the plug. Number two the three sets of 12ga wire bunched next to each other is huge on that plug. You can see that here. 


Not too stressed about it, I have plenty of time before i'm to that stage of this project. 

Next I've done the last two sets of RCA's, and I'm going to try and work on the main wire harness ends and the pig tails from each end tonight. We'll see how that goes!! 

More as I get it together.


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## emperorjj1

ya audison connection is crazy expensive... check out rockford fosgate accessories.. not quite as cool but alot cheaper


----------



## scooter99

I think for now I'll just stick with the Tsunami stuff. I'll order a new negative battery terminal and when I get it I'll go out and get a longer screw for it. Hopefully that will be ok. 

On a side note, I've been at home the last couple days with my daughter because the lady who watches her everyday was sick. That's why i was able to do some stuff during the day, i.e. wires. Wel I got to work this morning to gifts on my desk. 

I got the barrier strips that I've been waiting for, to wire up the rear deck main block. Also I got the 8ga in line fuse holder for the power wire for the rear deck main block. As a refresher, the 8ga power wire will run from the Kinetik HC800 rear battery to the main block on the rear deck for the 12+ on all the components. It's usually the yellow wire. I thought about finding a yellow 8ga wire, but it's gonna be flexed and labled anyway. 

Also this morning I picked up the new molex connectors, and the extra pins for them as well. So that will be ready to go when the flex comes in. It'll just need to be flexed and heat shrinked and it'll be ready to go in. Again not worried about this. Not ready for it anyway. But I'm just trying to get it all done so when I get to those particular projects, I'm not trying to make wires then. 

So this weekend I'll be starting the rear deck. I take that back, tonight I'll be doing that. My only delimma is this. I want to make it so that the rear block is removeable. I'm already running a molex connector between that block and the main harness. I was thinking of using a small sheet of pvc, but I'm not sure if that's going to be strong enough. Maybe if I glue two of them together? I could use MDF, but I only have 5/8's right now and I think that's a little too thick for this application. 

Thoughts and suggestions are welcome, otherwise I'll try to figure something out myself. 

HAPPY FRIDAY FOLKS!!!


----------



## sydmonster

I bought JUST the Audison battery terminals and I like them very much.


----------



## scooter99

Thank you for the input. I think I'll end up getting the stuff, just won't be all at once. 

Here's a little update!

So it's about 1:20 am now and I'm going to bed. I was going to just go to bed early but the bug hit me and I've been up for the last 4 1/2 hours drawing my wiring diagram for my main terminal block in the rear deck. Also drew up a diagram for a terminal block in the center console area for the stuff up front. The objective is to have as little wiring behind the head unit as possible. Doing things this way, I think it's very doable! Should be nice and clean back there. 

I also went to lowes today and picked up some lexon for my main terminal block in the back. I was trying to figure out what to use, because I wanted it removeable and I didn't want to worry about pushnig wires through a thick board. So for $4.00 a pop, I got a couple pieces of lexon at 8 x 10 inches. It's perfect for the space I need. Here's the layout of it all. Obviously it needs wires but this is pretty much how it's going to lay out. 



On the top you can see a fuse block. This is for the 8ga power that will come in off the HC800 in the rear. Then it goes into the terminal strips. On the right are the three relays I'm using. They're for the ignition line, remote line, and the power for the neons. I need to figure out some fusing situations and how to go about doing that, but I'll work on that as well. My thought is that, if I can find them, I believe they make a connector that takes a fuse. I can put the connector on the terminal strip and take out the little metal piece that connects one side to the other. Put a fuse connector on either side, fuse in the middle and viole!!!! If I can find em!! Like I said I'll need to work on this a bit! 

I have a list to head over to my local electronics store tomorrow. I'm sure they'll have something for me to play with !!!! LOL!

We'll see how much I can get done tomorrow. Goodnight all!!


----------



## scooter99

Lots of work done today. Well not lots but I did get some. Did some finish work on the cosmetics of the main harness. I got the rest of my RCA's done. That's about all I did, but that's about all I had time for. I picked up some connectors, and shrink, and other stuff that I needed to finish all the wires up. That'll be happening this week. It's gonna be a wet cold crapy weather week, so in the garage is a good place to be. I'll post pics up later when the kids go to sleep.


----------



## scooter99

So here we go with pics. 

Last I left off was a teaser on how the main board was going to look. Here's how that went together. 

I took the two pieces of lexon, cause I thought one was too flimsey, and glued them together. The problem with this, as you'll see in the picture, is that I used contact cement and a brush to put it on. This was no bueno when I got done with it! Here is where I started to put the components on the board, but you can also see the horrible brush marks in it. I have a plan for this as well. 





Here's the back side of it. The stroke marks are very visable here!!



So my thought to maybe take care of this was to paint one side of the board and see what happens. Also, one side, because I already screwed the components onto the board and really didn't want to go through the hassel of taking them all off again.



And the front side.....FAIL!!!



Very not happy with the results. Acutally if I'd have used something more clear than contact cement, which has a yellow tint to it, it would've looked more like frosted rain glass like this. Instead it looks like crap. Well I'd already gone through the work to drill the holes and lay everything out etc, so I decided to just paint the front side too. Took off the components and got it done.



This was definitly not the way I was starting out going, however, I'm actually pleased with the finishing results. No need to be clear, no neons back there or anything, so it's all good. 

Next I have to wire everything up. Make my harnesses, put plugs on the main harness that I've already made, put connectors on, lots of shrink, lots of little stuff. So I've done the strips before and it was kind of a bear doing the connector pieces. So I thought about it and I'm going to use an extra strip that I have that's the same brand, just different size, to solder all the connector loops. I screwed it to the workbench, now all I need to do is put the connectors into as many terminals as I need then cut and strip the wire. Slide them in, solder, and shrink. Have a nice day! 

Terminal strip screwed to the workbench. 



BY THE WAY, the clean garage is a definite plus. It's so nice to finally be a little bit organized. Wow what a difference. I need to invest in a few things like a rolling cart of some sort and maybe a nice sized tool chest I can put on the bench to hold my tools. Right now I'm using 3 small tool chests and I'm still trying to remember where everything is at, so I have to go through each one numerous times. Got a little more organizing to do yet! But I'm way better off now then I was a couple weeks ago!! WOOT WOOT!!

I even put up a few more lites over the workbench so I could basically be working under a spot light all the time. I hate dim lighting!! Ok moving on! 

Next I finished the RCA's. I only had two sets left to do, tweets and mid range, but it's been a crazy week and time just hasn't been there. Anyway here they are. 

Tweeter Cable Right




Tweeter Cable Left


----------



## scooter99

Both tweeter cables right and left.



Mid range cable right 





Mid Range cable left



Both mid range cables right and left.



So that's it for now. I have a busy week this week. Tomorrow night is playoffs for softball, and we're undefeated. I'll most likely have a 630 game and an 830 game to win it tomorrow night. Then Tuesday's my daughters birthday so we're going out to dinner, and who knows what else is in store. We're having a birthday party for her on saturday, so the rest of the week is going to be taken up with getting ready for all that. Thursday and Friday nights have been designated cookie and cupcake baking nights. Saturday, well I just told you that. Which leaves sunday, maybe. I'm thinking back on track next week. 

In the meantime I'm going to see if I can sneak out to the garage at all for some little stuff to do. I'll keep everyone updated if anything gets done! 

Oh that's right and my brother is borrowing my car to go out of town tuesday thru thursday. I don't need my car right now though, I've got lots of harnesses and wiring to do still! Hope that techflex gets here this week so I can get on finishing those speaker wires too!! Hmmmmm!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so I got my fabric ordered today for my head rests! 

I might get a break today to work on the car. That is if the weather cooperates here. It's been crazy nasty here today and power has gone out today twice in 3 hours. If it goes out again we might be going home. That means I'll be working on the car this afternoon. Well on wires anyway. I'm ready to start wiring the main block. Once that gets done I'll start putting everything together on the rear deck. 

I also moved everything back a week on the schedule. With this week it's just thrown me off and I'm running too tight right now to stay on this schedule. 

Ok more as it comes!


----------



## scooter99

Hmm starting to get concerned here folks. I've posted the last 5 posts, 6 including this one. Did I loose everyone?


----------



## n_olympios

I'm here, go on. 

I like the board. I like custom made power/signal distribution in general.


----------



## scooter99

It should really gain character when the wires go in. It'll add color for sure! Gonna heatshrink all the connections in coresponding shrink. Well what I have anyway. What I don't will be in black. Gonna try and lable everything also. 

Thanks!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so I got some work done tonight with the rear deck main board. Had plans to help it go easier but it didn't work out and had some other stuff that didn't work out so well so it took me way too long to do this part then I wanted it too. Thought I'd have half this wired up tonight. But here is what I did anyway.

Last time I worked on the rear deck main board I showed everyone this. 





My plan for this was to put the connectors on here, then insert the wires and then solder. Kind of like a multi holder if you will. I was going to use this to do my loops from one terminal to the next one. For whatever reason when I tried this tonight, I couldn't get the solder to take. But as soon as I put it back in the helpers hand it went easily. Hmmm. Not given up yet but it's kinda odd that would happen. Ok on to progress. 

So I got all my wire harnesses wires cut so I can solder connectors to the ends and arrange the wires where they need to be etc. I have about 8 little zip lock bags on my work bench ready for soldering. 

So the things that I got done tonight were, hooking up the relays (3), and I got the power wire ran from the block to the fuse holder. Again not much to show for it, but that's what happens when you have to cut your wire twice because for whatever reason when you measured the first time it wasn't long enough. But that's life and crap happens. 

Here are the pics of what I got done. 





Here's the underside:



So like I said it doesn't show much. But it is progress. I'll work on it more tomorrow night. I should be able to get most of the other wires done tomorrow night, but we'll see what happens. 

***On a separate note, I don't know if I announced this already or not but my father in law passed away the end of last week. It's been a crazy couple days with my daughters 3rd birthday party going on saturday and getting ready for that, as well as helping take care of my kids while my wife is over at her dad's house with her stepmom helping with the arrangements. So I know I had menchioned at one point he was in hospis care and I wanted to give an update to those who were curious. I'm still trying to get some stuff done as I can however, as you can imagine that's gonna be hard to pull if I have to take care of the home front while she continues to help her family. The funeral is on Thursday. 

So now it's late, 12:38 am PST, and I need to go to bed. 530 am comes terribly fast when you go to bed this late! 

Night all!!


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## IBcivic

my condolences bro....been there all too recently


----------



## n_olympios

Me too (with my father). Sincere condolences mate.


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## scooter99

Thanks for the thoughts. It's been tough for my wife especially. Just trying to do the good husband/fatherly thing and make sure the kids and the homefront are taken care of while she helps out. 

On the install, probably no work done tonight, I'm toooooo damn tired from work today and from the late night last night. Man I wish I could take about 2 weeks off and do this thing and get it over with. Oh well new year here we come!!!


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## IBcivic

slacker...j/k

family first


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## scooter99

So just a little update. I got the molex plugs, and the rest of the wire I needed to finish wiring the rear deck. I'll get that done sometime this week. I know I'm way behind on the scheduel. Damn life, getting in the way all the time! Who the hell does life think it is!!! 

Also just got an email from where I ordered the suede for the headrests! It's shipped and should be here by friday. Not there on the build yet but at least I'll have all materials when I am! I'm going to be doing the seats in suede as well. I think I'll be doing one seat at a time with this stuff. It's gonna cost me like 500.00 for the suede and I've got other things that are more important to buy right now, BIT ONE. So I'll just do a little at a time. But that's later in the project. LIKE WHEN IT'S FREAKIN DONE!!! I just need the head rests done now cause I have to re do the screens. No sence in doing them now then re upholserting them again later. 

That's all for now! Pics when I get some work done!

Thanks for those of you hanging in there with me!


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## scooter99

So I was at home today with my daughter who was sick, with no fever, no paleness, not looking or being sick what so ever. But we were up all night last night with her throwing up. Not such a great night. But rules are that she has to be out of daycare for 24 hours after fever or vomiting. Rules are rules!!

Needless to say I got a ton of work done today, even though it may not look like it when you see the pics. But that's ok I'll point the work out to you, well sort of!! Here goes!!

So first I'm showing are the two neon wire harnesses. I'm running 6 neon tubes in the cab of my car. One under the driver side dash, one under the passenger side dash, and two under each front seat (driver and passenger). These are the harnesses that are going to run from the rear main block to these neons. They're coiled up now, but there are 3 lines made into one single run for each side, which will split up to the appropriate places. They'll be terminated by a molex plug. Each of the neons themselves will also terminate into a molex plug that will connect to the opposite connector of the harnness end, i.e. if the neon has a female end the harness will have the male end. The neons will be operated by a switch up front in the dash, which will be opperated by the ignition wire, so there's no possibility of leaving them on. Ok enough detail about that! 



All that's left for these is to solder on the pins for the molex connectors and put those on. After that, installation! 

Next up is what I spent the majority of my day doing! I now have approximately 85% to 90% of the rear main block wired up now. With the exception of some things that I have to wait to wire up because they're not installed yet, we're almost there. 

There are some things that are changing however, not too terribly much, but I'm preping for something different. Here's the layout as it sits now. 



This is now going to change. My goal is to, at some point, pick up an Audison Bit One processor. Not sure when this is going to happen but I got to thinking, and why do all this stuff twice? Meaning if I left this the way it was, I'd have to rebuild it down the line when I got the Bit One. So I got to looking at the Bit One vs. the H701. They're pretty similar in layout, if you get down to it. With what I'm using it for, and where the majority of the outputs are, it only makes since to do something different but use the same equipment until I can come up with the money to get the Bit One. 

The idea. I'm going to use the same board idea, just alter the layout. I'm going to make a new board to start off. Next I'm going to alter the layout by putting the Bit One as more of the center point of the area. I'm going to turn the layout onto it's side, or rotate it a quarter turn so the outputs are facing the front of the car, instead of the side like it is now. I'm going to shift that closer to center and then adjust some of the smaller things. I'll be putting the Sirius tuner (KCA-SC100), the antenna tuner itself that connects to the KCA-SC100, and the Pac TR-7, between the processor and the rear main block. The brain for the PKG-M780 monitors will stay on the same side, just move over a bit. Now I'll be ready to just simply, yeah right, swap out the two units when I get the Bit One. Ok so anyway on to the project. 

I spent the day wiring up the block. Here are some pics. 

If you will recall I tried to use an extra block to solder terminal connectors etc and had a hard time with it. Said I wouldn't give up on it and so I did just that. I tried again and it worked this time! Woohoo! Not sure why this time it worked vs. last time but whatever I'll take it. Saved some time!! 


Unfortunately my excitement got the best of me and I forgot to take progress pics. I'll give you the rundown though. Here's where I was about in the middle of the wiring process.



Before I started all this I made a diagram for all the wiring, which is how I figured out what wires I need to go where and how many terminal strips I needed etc. That's how I got to this point. 

Starting at the top. All the yellow wires are the 12+ or constant power wires. That's where the 8 ga wire goes to from the in line fuse holder. Next to that are the ignition wires in red, coming from the relay on the top right. The main comes in from behind the radio through the main harness that I made a while back, and into this relay. Then to the block. Second row starts with a blank, then the remote wires which come from the relay on the right in the middle. These will go to the Pac TR-7, Audison LRx 6.9, and the Audison LRx 4.1K. Next to that is the Monitor remote wire from the head unit to the M780 brain. Skip a block, then the Hand brake wires from the TR-7 to the W505 and the M780. Skip a block then the Footbrake wire which goes from the TR-7 to the W505. Skip a block and then the Neon switch wire from the main harness from the switch up front. From there it goes to the relay on the bottom right. The third strip is all ground wires. This will be supplied by an 8ga ground wire attached to the chassis ground or a grounding block possibly. THe last strip is all neons. This will house the neons lines that will go to the harnesses that I made today. They alternate power and negative so that each will have it's own set next to each other, not across the block and confusing myself in fact if I need to remove one. That's pretty much the run down. Now that you know what all the wires are for, here are the rest of the pictures of what I did today!

This shows the block all wired up, with exception of course of what I told you in the beginning. 



This is pretty much the same picture but showing all the pig tails that are coming out from the back of the block. All these pig tails are for each of the components in the rear deck, i.e. H701, SC100, M780, Pac TR-7, Neons, etc. There is also the main wire harness in there as well. The reason for all the molex terminations is because I want to be able to take the entire block out if need be to work on it, or add something, or whatever the case may be. There isn't much room in the back deck and I'd get one hell of a neck cramp trying to alter anything in place. I have all pig tails wired to the block. I do, however, have two more plugs to put on. I'll be doing that in a moment. I'll update those pics next time! 



Here is the under side of the block. I tried to be as neat as I could without having anything really to tie to but the wires themselves, it made it a little difficult, but I think it came out ok!! 



So as you can see, it doesn't really look like alot, but if you take into consideration the soldering connections, feeding lines through the holes, heat shrinking, techflexing, zip tieing, and the occasional "**** I can't believe I just did that," there's a lot of time involved here. I feel like i just jumped over a huge hurdle though. 

On a different note, I got my suede at the office today for the headrests. Can't wait to see it in person. I'm thinking of doing the rear deck in suede as well. I'm just not wild and crazy about the grill cloth. Just doesn't seem so "finished" ya know!! We'll see what happens! 

Night for now!!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so I went out to work on my rear deck and get the actual deck part built tonight, and I'm completely discouraged and disapointed!  I've cut the board now twice and I've relaid some of the components and then I cut the rear piece to box in the components. With the height it needs to be to clear the components, it only gives me about a quarter inch from the front to fit my wire block. So I'm going to reevaluate whether I'm going to do that or not. For now, so I don't completely stall out the build and lose the rest of you, I'm going to start building the IB wall and the trunk part of this thing. 

Couple of questions for a couple of people, hopefully still paying attention in here. 

Stinky06 and Bikinpunk, how did you go about sealing the trunk from the cabin? I know spray foam is used, that's kind of a given, but what about asthetics, etc? 

Bikinpunk, how far back from the top is your baffle sitting? I'm counting an 8" depth on the subs. I figured 10 to 11 after the baffle thickness, but it appears you're not even back to the trunk springs. Is that correct or what do you advise?

I'm thinking about a piece of 1/4" ply or mdf or something to put under the rear deck to help seal it up, then possibly foam it from the top to seal anything that was missed. 

Any thoughts or suggestions at this point could proove very very helpful, from anyone, not just these two. 

Thanks all!!


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## IBcivic

damn...it's been a while... i made mdf plugs for the speaker holes and used no more nails ultra or something .... with deadner on top. now the under side has not been done yet[lack of time& procrastination,mainly] the only area where i used foam was to seal the contour of my ib wall frame... i actually framed the opening , so that i could easily remove the wall [baffle] fairly easily. the framing it self has no more nails and a few screws to anchor it in place. + 2 or 3 more "L" brackets on top[very important] . there is a 1.5 inchspace i filled with foam on the top of the frame. all the rest,will be done with deadner.[eventually] bed time for me now....


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## scooter99

Ok so now that I've slept on the rear deck tragety, I'm gonna do a couple things. Number one, not gonna work on that anymore and put it aside. Secondly I got to work today, haven't been here since last wednesday, and I had a box on my desk. Opened it up and there sits the suede I ordered to redo my head rests. I think I'll start on that tonight. Why you ask? Because it's monday night, I don't get home till after dark, and it's something I can get started on in my living room or kitchen. I don't have to do much cutting, cause I have a baffle in there already, so that will help. I can just spray foam it and then shape it. Then i'll be read for the covers. I do have one small issue, which is I don't have a sewing machine, but I'll figure that out too.


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## scooter99

OK THIS IS NOT ON TOPIC BUT DAMN IT I'M PISSED!!!!!! 

o::cwm23: IT'S HALLOWEEN THIS WEEK AND I'M THE TYPE OF DAD WHO LOVES TO DRESS UP FOR MY KIDS AND GO OUT AND HAVE FUN WITH THEM. MY GIRLS DIG IT AND WE'VE BEEN DOING IT FOR THE LAST 3 YEARS SINCE MY OLDEST WAS OLD ENOUGH TO GO OUT TRICK OR TREATING! WE GO TO MALLS AND STUFF FOR THE SAFE NIGHT ETC. LAST YEAR I WAS AN ELMO AND THAT WAS A HUGE HIT. I WAS THE OPERATION GAME GUY THE YEAR BEFORE, AND I FORGET NOW WHAT I WAS THE FIRST YEAR BUT ALL THREE YEARS IT WAS A BLAST. I HAD FUN CAUSE THE KIDS HAD FUN. 

THIS YEAR I DECIDED I WAS GOING TO DO SOMETHING DIFFERENT THEN WHAT I ALREADY HAD IN THE CLOSET. MY OLDEST IS IN SCHOOL NOW AND SHE HAS A CARNIVAL AT HER SCHOOL FRIDAY MORNING, AND THEN HALLOWEEN IS SATURDAY AND WE'RE GOING TO ANOTHER FUN PLACE FOR THAT. SO I'LL GET TWO USES OUT OF MY COSTUME THIS YEAR. GIRLS DON'T KNOW WHAT THEY WANT TO BE BUT I DECIDED I'D BE WHAT EVERYONE LOVES! I'LL BE AN M&M! COSTUME IS AWESOME. IT'S ORANGE, FIRST OF ALL WHICH IS MY FAVORITE COLOR, AND IT'S JUST A COOL LOOKIN COSTUME. o::cwm23:

I ORDERED THIS GOD DAMN THING ON OCTOBER 13TH, WHICH IS TWO WEEKS TO THE DAY ON TOMORROW. I NOT ONLY HAVE NO FREAKING, SORRY TRYING NOT TO CUSS AND KEEP IT CLEAN, COSTUME YET, BUT I WAS ON THE PHONE FOR A COMBINED HOUR TODAY TRYING TO SPEAK TO SOMEONE. THE PLACE IS CALLED FINDCOSTUME.COM, AND I CALLED THERE THIS MORNING AND WAS ON THE PHONE FOR 25 MINTUES BEFORE I HAD TO GET OFF FOR WORK STUFF. THEN THIS AFTERNOON I WAS AGAIN AND WAS CUT OFF, OR HUNG UP ON. I CALLED BACK AN THEY'RE CLOSED. I ALSO SENT AN EMAIL DURING THE FIRST PHONE CALL THIS MORNING :listenup:. I'VE GOT NO TRACKING NUMBER, NOTHING ON THE SITE SAYING THAT IT'S BEEN SHIPPED, NOTHING!!!!!! I HAVE NOW 3 DAYS TILL I HAVE TO HAVE IT AND I CAN'T LOCATE ANOTHER ONE, APPARENTLY THEY'RE POPULAR THIS YEAR, AND IF THEY HAVEN'T SENT IT, THEY'RE OUT OF NEW YORK AND THERE'S NO WAY THEY'RE GETTING IT TO ME BY THURSDAY HERE IN CALIFORNIA, UNLESS THEY OVERNIGHT IT AND I'LL BE GOD DAMNED IF I'M PAYING FOR THAT ****!! I CANNOT BELIEVE THAT EVEN WITH PROCESSING IT TAKES TWO WEEKS TO GET SOMETHING LIKE THIS!! AND DO YOU THINK THEY WAITED TO TAKE THE MONEY OUT OF PAYPAL, F&$# NO!!! WTF!! OH I'M SO FURIOUS, FOR MY GIRLS ESPECIALLY, BUT MORE ABOUT THE LACK OF COMMUNICATION ON THEIR PART!

NOW I GUESS I'M BACK TO THE DRAWING BOARD SINCE I DON'T HAVE ONE AND CAN'T SEEM TO FIND ONE! SIGH!! WHY ME!


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## scooter99

Ok I won't go into detail but I figured out my rear deck problem. I know how to fix it and continue with the idea. Like I said I won't go into details but I thought I'd share my semi excitment for the fix at the moment. I'll work on it this week sometime. 

DAMN, I'm so far behind my schedule!!

I got my suede in for the head rests. After looking a little closer and having it in the car, I've decided these are not the colors I want. I'm gonig to go with a dark granite color instead of black and a darker grey color instead of pewter. Doesn't sound that far off I know, meaning grey v. pewter, but it's enough to make me want to make the change. So I'll have to wait on that cause friday's payday and we're still a little strapped these days. So I'll be ordering those next week, and I'll just use the other somewhere else in this build! I'm going to look into using it on the rear pods as well as the rear deck as well. Sueding out the car, maybe!

That's all for now!


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## n_olympios

scooter99 said:


> DAMN, I'm so far behind my schedule!!


What are you complaining about? We're still in the same year you started it, aren't we? :laugh:


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## IBcivic

lololol...good one


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## scooter99

n_olympios said:


> What are you complaining about? We're still in the same year you started it, aren't we? :laugh:


Yes that's a good point. Sorry! Thanks for reminding me!


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## IBcivic

hey scoot, the candle is out in your jack o lantern!...
:laugh::laugh::laugh: your avatar is disturbing:laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## scooter99

Hey don't make me light a match!!


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## scooter99

How's that, better? I was trying to find a pin up girl in some sexy halloween costume but nothing on short notice! I'll keep looking though.


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## IBcivic

yeah with a pair of plump ''pumpkins''...that would be nice


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## scooter99

Hold please!!


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## scooter99

ask and you shall receive!! LMAO!!


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## scooter99

Ok so back to the car talk. I got hit with the flu yesterday, so unfortunately I wasn't able to work on it today like I had planned to. But my next step is going to be the front stage. Tweeter pods, mid range pods (new idea), and mid bass in the doors. 

Onto that, I have a question. I'm doing the tweeter pods out of the pvc caps that we've all grown so acustomed to! I'm running Hertz High Energy tweets, and mid ranges. My question is this. Does anyone see a problem with running the mid range in the same type of pod? Of course it's going to be a bigger cap but does anyone have any suggestions on whether or not it will sound ok with the mid range vs. the tweeter? Am I making since? If not ask questions and I'll broaden my description on it. Thanks!


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## scooter99

Ok so I just went out into the garage, cause I'm obsessed, and looked at the set up. I didn't take pictures cause I'm not really doing anything but here's what I found out. I have to open up the inside of the cap for the tweeter to sit in a little bit. The mid range is only a 3" and it actually fits perfectly in a piece of 3" abs pipe I had laying around. Here's the issue though. I have the screens for the mid range, which of course match the tweeters so I want to use them since the tweeters are going to be exposed. So with the trim ring on the mid ranges it sticks out of the pipe approx. 1/8 to 3/16". 

So here's what my thinking is! I'm going to go get a couple of 3" end caps and I'm going to cut the abs at about 1". Then I'll glue the cap onto that piece so it becomes one unit. That should take care of the 1/8" to 3/16" over hang on the trim ring. It should actually take me over about 1/8" which will be good because that's what the tweeters are looking like they're going to be. 

Now then I have two options here for placement. The first option is to connect these two pieces, tweeter pod and mid range pod, and they'll fit in the sail windows. I can cover them with grill cloth or something, maybe just paint them if I can get them clean enough, and then attatch them with the power cord rod so the speaker wires can pass through and they'll be, essentially, bolted on. 

Option number two is this. If you will recall, for those of you who've followed me from the beginning thanks btw, I have tweeters that I cut into the door cards under the handles. 

I have to cover these some how. I can take the 3" pods and again, cover them with something or paint them, and put them on top of these holes in the door cards and aim them towards the center of the vehicle. Then the tweeter pods can go in the sail windows. 

The only problem with option two is that the driver side is going to be so close to the handle that it's going to be hard to get the mid range on axis. So I am leaning towards the sail windows in basically a snow man effect on the stacking. 

Suggestions on this please?


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## sydmonster

Trial it first as 15' or so off-axis might not sound that bad. In fact you will probably hard pressed to tell the difference. But I would probably go for Sail window anyway, it should help with PLD somewhat. Again, if you can trial it.
Keep at it!


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## scooter99

Actually with just using pvc pods it would be pretty easy to trial it. I have some heavy duty velcro and that will help them stay in place to try them. Good idea I'll do that when I get better. Sorry dictionary question, what is PLD again?


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## sydmonster

PLD = Path Length Difference.
One of the basics in car audio, to get the front stage speakers in as equal distance from the listeners ears. Hard to do when we sit to one side of the car. Time Alignment band aids this, but throws it out even worse for the passenger seat, but if this car is just for you then no biggie .


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## scooter99

Ok. Thanks I'll enter that in my memory and keep it for the future. Yea in this car, I only have one or two other passengers and those are my daughters in the back seat. I don't care who about sound for the passenger because it's just me up front about 90% of the time. Thanks for the help!


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## scooter99

Ok so I was out running errands, since I feel better today, and I hit up lowes for some supplies. 

Here's kind of a rough draft so to speak of what I want to do with the pods, if I put them both in the sail windows which I'm leaning towards. 

This is the way they'll look stacked, without the velcro, and the tabs on the tweeter mounts of course!



side views.



Issues:

The first issue that I see is that with the abs cap for the tweeter pod is that it's a good amount, about 1/4" larger than the tweeter mount. The PVC cap is smaller and therefor I'd have to cut out some material to get the mount in there. I can build it up and use the abs, or I can go back to the drawing board and see if I can find something else that might fit. I think I'll try what I have and see what I can do to make these work. 

The second issue is that the backs of these are flat vs. the pvc which is round on the back. I'm not sure what this will do to the sound but I may experament with it and see if it does anything. Opinions are welcome. I know there was a thread on here somewhere describing flat backs vs. rounded backs using a .99 cent ball or something like that. Can't remember. It had something to do with resination. Anyone care to enlighten me on this I'd be happy to listen. The other issues about the flat back vs. the rounded back is that it's a little harder to mount in the way I want to mount them, given the sqare corners. With the rounded corners I can always have a semi clean surface to drill through. I don't want to have to drill through a corner. 

Anyway. That's it for now. Still also need to figure out how to cover them.


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## scooter99

Apparently I forgot to post up the latest picture of the main block finished and ready to be installed. Here it is!


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## IBcivic

nice job on the relay board,man!

for the tweeter cap, try centering the tweeter ring and fixing it to the cap with super glue.
if you need to fill in the space,some more...just glue a piece of pipe in the cap and trim it flush. then you can adjust the inner diameter to your liking.


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## scooter99

That makes since, since that's what I'm doing to the mid range. Don't know why I didn't think of that. Thanks! I'll work on that in the morning. 

I think, after playing with it this afternoon, my only option is to paint these bad boys. I think I'll try to put on some kind of texture though first. We'll see what happens!


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## scooter99

Got some work done tonight. 

Materials for the pillar pods for the Hertz Tweeters and Hertz Mid Range. 
2 - 1 1/2" ABS end caps
2 - 1 1/2" ABS filler pieces
4 - 3" ABS end caps
4 - 3" ABS filler pieces
1 - Can of black spray paint
1 - Can of Stone Texture spray paint
1 - Can of grey spray paint to match the pillar color.
1 - Can of ABS Cement
1 - Package of assorted hollow threaded rods
2 - Packages of assorted lock nuts
1 - Bottle of Gorilla Super Glue


Next I took the filler pieces and put them in the end caps using the abs glue. 




Next it was time to take the tweeter trims and make them work. I had to trim off the wings on the sides of them. Then I had to sand the cut pieces off to make a nice finish. Sorry forgot those pics. 


After those were ready I put them on top of the 1 1/2" caps with the fillers and traced around the trims using a standard pencil. Then I took a dremel with a rough sanding attachment and ground down the insides of the filler to the pencil mark so the trim would fit in snug. 

This is one pod ground and the other not.


Trim set inside.


And the second one done!


Side view of both.


I used the same rough sanding dremel attachment and roughed up all the pods for painting. Here they sit ready for paint.


For the first layer of paint I'll be using the Stone Texture spray paint.


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## scooter99

Here's a close up view of the Stone Texture paint. It just kinda gives it a roughed up look. 


Once dry I'll take a very fine grit sand paper and smooth off some of the rough, just giving it a slight texture to it. Once that's the desired texture then I'll paint over it with the grey to match. 

Here is a picture of the two tweeter trims. After sanding they looked a little rough so I touched them up with some black spray paint. I set the tweeter in one after it was dry and it matches perfectly! 


I forgot to mention it earlier but I did 4 of the 3" caps because I'm switching from the hertz 4" coaxals in the rear to hertz 3" mid ranges to match the front. The 4" coax are a little big for the application. Having trouble with the pods in the rear. Going to give this a shot. 

That's about all I've gotten done to now, have to wait for the texture to dry. More to come when it happens!


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## IBcivic

cool....i can't wait to see the end result,once painted.


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## sydmonster

that stone paint is very convincing, nice touch.


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## scooter99

Thanks. I painted them with the grey. First look it was light. And it still is after drying, but it's a lot closer to the trim color than when I first looked at it. As well the fronts of these things are going to be black so it won't matter much and close will be good enough, or so I think. The mid range with the trim ring and the grill will completely cover the front of the 3" cap, with in about 1/8" of it anyway. So the edge will be painted black to match. Same with the tweeter. The front will be black because only about an 1/8" will show. 

I tried to take some pics of them painted but the glare of the lights don't really do it justic. I'm gonna wait to post them up until I can get some daylight pics. 

Overall I'm very pleased with the way these are turning out at this point. The stone paint is working out well, getting the texture I was looking for. I used a really fine sand block and knocked off the tops of the texture and then painted them. I think once they're glued together and then mounted in the sail window, you're not going to really see much of the pod anyway, so I think perfection will not do me much good here. But I'm still that way and I'll get it as close as I can. Can't wait to get these things finished and mounted. 

Who know's maybe I'll get em mounted and working by the Nor Cal meet next week. I want to try and get my mid bass in this week as well. I have big new plans for the doors now and the mid bass. As soon as the grills come in for them I'll be working on that. But that's another project for another day! 

PROGRESS!! WOOTWOOT!


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## scooter99

Ok so only for you guys do I go this far tonight. I ended up playing with them anyway. Couldn't stand it. 

So here's what I've got.

Painted 3" mid range caps.


Had to fill in the seam between the cap and the filler for the tweeter pod. Filled it with abs glue. 


Here are all caps painted.


Here is what it looks like in color compared to the trim panel. It's very close. 


Here is the basic layout of what it will look like in the pillar. These are not attached yet, but just sitting in place. 




Then I got crazy and wrapped up into the project a little bit. I installed, temporarily, the tweeter and the mid range and put it back in to the pillar. Again it's not attached but just sitting there in the general area of where it will be installed. I still have to aim them and figure out how and where to attach them at. 






So there you have it. Still lots of finish work to do. The tweeter cap is only colored in on top with a black sharpie because there was grey paint all over it. But it will match better once the rest has been finished. The black will come last. 

I've played with the idea, only in my head, of just doing them all black but I'm not convenced yet. Opinons!? 

That's all for now! Goodnight!


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## folgrz

wow! looks awesome so far keep up the good work!


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## scooter99

Thanks guys. Didn't get to do anything tonight. Long day. But I'll be looking at doing more tomorrow and maybe getting these in the car, maybe. I think I still need another coat of paint on them but we'll see what happens.


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## sydmonster

Take your time... good things those who come to wait, or something like that .


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## scooter99

Oh that's for sure!! Hoping to get the pods finished and ready for install tonight. I'll mosy likely get them pointed and installed tomorrow night. Will try to get the mid basses installed tonight as those are pretty easy since I just have to switch them out.


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## IBcivic

are you going to re-use the modded oem baffle that i sent you?....or do you have something better in mind?
any which way you decide to go....get the jig saw[or sawzall] out and give that driver some air to breath, 'cause the magnet barely just fits in there, as you will soon find out.


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## scooter99

stinky06 said:


> are you going to re-use the modded oem baffle that i sent you?....or do you have something better in mind?
> any which way you decide to go....get the jig saw[or sawzall] out and give that driver some air to breath, 'cause the magnet barely just fits in there, as you will soon find out.


What do you mean? It just barely fits in the hole, or depth wise? I haven't even looked at it yet to see what needs to be done. I'm planning to use the oem baffle.

On installing them, I'm having second thought. Reason being that I don't have the H701 up and running yet and I'm a little afraid of messing them up just using the amp's crossover. Thoughts?


----------



## IBcivic

what i am talking about, is the funky shaped hole in the door behind the oem speaker. i'd enlarge that to a healthy 5'' dia. hole. if you were to revert to oem speakers again...you still couldn't tell that the door was hacked....but i think your passed that point already...


----------



## scooter99

Yeah, I had to cut the opening bigger already when I put in the RF mids. I'll be sure to take pictures of those next to the MLK's. I'm sure there will be a sizable difference. What about my concerns I posted a few minutes ago? Should I hold off on installing the Hertz until the H701 is up and running? Or do you think a little tuning and gain control will be ok?


----------



## IBcivic

no problems what so ever....


----------



## scooter99

Ok, well then I'll get them in this week then. Hopefully by the NorCal meet on saturday!


----------



## scooter99

Got a couple things done today in the hour or so I had to work with! 

Painted the tops of the tweeter pods black. Much better look than the sharpie!! LOL






I took some left over cardboard I had from a box and made some circles. The circles fit the insides of the mid range pods and the tweeter pods. Then I cut a small hole in the center of those to slide in a lazer pointer so I could get an idea of how to point the pods. I've figured out where my ear level is at and where to point them in the car but I haven't had a chance to do this yet. 




Then I decided to take the plunge and take out the old pillars that I built previously with the Dayton RS100's and Dayton ND20's in. If you will recall, the reason these wouldn't work was because when I was putting on the vinyl I pulled too hard on it and it warped the trim piece which caused the trim not to go in all the way at the window sill. It was too much work to rebuild these things so I decided to go another route. Hence this build!

Passenger side out.




Passenger side in.


Driver side out.


----------



## scooter99

Driver side in.


So after this was done I did some re wiring in the rear at the amps. I don't have the three speakers now on either side, just the mid bass in the doors and the tweeter in the stock dash spot. So I eliminated the mid range wires to the amps and the rear fill to the amps. So I now have the tweeters running on channels 1 & 2 and the mid bass running bridged on channels 3 & 4 on the Rockford Fosgate P4004, for now. 

I also put my 12's back in, temporarily, and am running them on the other P4004. One 12 bridged on channels 1 & 2 and the other bridged on 3 & 4. However, for whatever reason, one is not working so great. But again they're only temporary and these are pretty old 12's! 

Anyway, that's all for now. I plan to aim the tweeters and mid range and install the mid bass before this weekend. Then tune them in. May end up doing away with the 12's again before the weekend but we'll have to wait and see how things play out. I'll be back to utilizing both amps if I get the front stage all set up. I have another for the subs but there's a good amount of wiring to do to install that third amp for a weekend. 

We'll have to wait and see what happens!!


----------



## less

Those look great... wish I'd gone with a four door now! Curious, do the mids work well with so little space to work in? I'm deep into planning an attempt at apillar mounts for my 12ms and scan tweeters for my civic and trying to come up with some way to create some smaller enclosures with enough volume for the mids to work well in.

Good luck dialing things in bud!
Jim/Less


----------



## scooter99

less said:


> Those look great... wish I'd gone with a four door now! Curious, do the mids work well with so little space to work in? I'm deep into planning an attempt at apillar mounts for my 12ms and scan tweeters for my civic and trying to come up with some way to create some smaller enclosures with enough volume for the mids to work well in.
> 
> Good luck dialing things in bud!
> Jim/Less


You know to be completely honest with you I don't know if they will or not. I have read on here, and maybe someone can chime in on this, where it said on one of these threads that the Hertz HL70's, specifically, can work in a 3" x 3" x 3" cap or space can't remember. I'm trying it, of course, and I'm hoping it will work fine. If not I'll be back to the drawing board. 

I don't have my processor hooked up yet, and am not even close to ready for that, so I don't think I'm going to attempt to wire these to the amps I'm currently running. Don't wanna blow em. There's a lot of money, for me anyway, sitting in these pods. Once I get them hooked up an playing I'll make determination for sure and report back to everyone. 

If anyone else has any input they'd like to add or share, we'd love to hear it. 

Already scheduled some time tonight to get these installed. Just need to figure out how and at what angle. Crossing fingers, it'll go smoothly! :laugh:

Hoping to get the mid bass in as well! But there's some work to be done to the doors for these to go in. Meaning sealing up the big holes. I just have deadener running over it now. TOO FLIMSEY!! Gonna add some metal and then deaden that as well. Here's to a productive night!!


----------



## scooter99

Ok here is the thread I saw the write up about the enclosure suggestions. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diy-mobile-audio-sq-forum/66556-midrange-mounting-location-2-options-only.html I've also written a post on the Hertz Experts thread to ask about it. I'll post up whatever response I get!


----------



## spooner

Where u buy a pillar pods?


----------



## scooter99

I don't I make em! Speaking of, they're in the car! Pics are loading but theres a ton of em so I won't be posting them tonight but tomorrow for sure! I'm pretty psyched about the way they turned out! Hopefully they'll work good! But that's the nature of the beast right!


----------



## IBcivic

spooner said:


> Where u buy a pillar pods?


he used plastic pipe caps from the hardware store


----------



## jorona1

Hi guys I have been watching this build. This is an awesome way to use the wasted space of a civic. I have a question. How did you get the angling of the speakers or are they sitting flush? I am installing a 3 way set up in an 06 civic myself. This is good stuff. Nice work can't wait to see the rest.


----------



## scooter99

jorona1 said:


> Hi guys I have been watching this build. This is an awesome way to use the wasted space of a civic. I have a question. How did you get the angling of the speakers or are they sitting flush? I am installing a 3 way set up in an 06 civic myself. This is good stuff. Nice work can't wait to see the rest.


Let me answer this first before I move on to the pictures. I'm assuming you mean the speaker pods that I have in there now with the grills over them. I actually built a baffle out of 1/8" birch ply, then on top of that I cut some 5/8" mdf at an angle for the speaker rings. No where near the angle they need to be. Then I used bondo and insulation etc to fill in the gaps for covering. 

However, not happy with that so I'm redoing it, or should I say re did it!! HERE GOES!!!!


----------



## scooter99

There's a lot of freakin pictures here so be patient and I'll get though it. Starting on the drivers side. 

Taped up the trims so I could make marks etc without actually marking the trim up. 




Here I used a piece of cardboard, along with a speed square not shown, to get a lazer light in the center and point to where my ears are. I found that out because I taped the headrest, as you'll see, and while I was sitting in my semi normal driving position my wife, YES MY WIFE HELPED ME , made marks where the center of my ears were at on the headrest. You can see the marks as well as the red lazer light in these pics.






The mid range pod was mounted with screws to hold it in place from the back side of the trim until I was able to mount it more permanently. 

On to the tweeter pod now that the mid range pod is in place. Same method was used to angle it.


----------



## scooter99

And now they're both temporarily mounted to the trims and angled correctly. 


From the drivers seat.


Now to secure them in place. I'm using hollow threaded rods you would use for laps etc to pass the cord through. I bought them at Lowes and I believe Home Depot has them as well. Also bought he assorted nuts to go with them.

Tweeter pod connected to the mid range pod with the rod. 




Midrange and tweeter pod combo connected to the trim with two threaded rods, since all speaker wire won't fit into one rod. Using 12ga, it's a little thick! 


From the back side of the trim.


I put some deadener in it just for ****s and grins!!! 


Lets wire the bishes up!!

First the tweeter pod!
The wire runs through the mid range pod to the tweeter pod.


Soldered the ends 


DAMN IT! Forgot to take pics of it heat shrinked! But it's done don't stress!!

Mid Range pod. 
Soldered ends on the speaker wire and heat shrinked them.


----------



## scooter99

Wires running through the back of the trims. 


All cleaned up!! 


Connected and installed the drivers.


Wires ran through to the side pannel under the dash and ready for molex plugs and tech flex, maybe. Yes that's the alarm module. I zip tied it this time. It was just shoved behind the trim panel in the kick. Honda's genius techs!! 


Driver Side Installed BABY!!


This is with the mesh grill on.








Drivers Side DONE!!! epper:


----------



## scooter99

On to the passenger side! I didn't take as many pics of this side, cause well, it's just a repeat of the driver's side at a different angle! But here we go. Not going to describe this cause again it's the same thing. You guys are smart you can figure it out from what I already discribed.







Damn it just realized I didn't take pics of the lazer for the tweeter. It's pretty on. Just below the mark. 







Now these pics did not come out the best for some reason. I'll try to re take them when I get time during the day. But here are both sets. 




Like I said they're not the best. 

There's my front stage pillar pod build. 

I'm anxiously awaiting feedback. :anxious:

I'm off to get my fenders rolled so my tires to rub anymore! WOOTWOOT!!


----------



## jorona1

Sorry... Yes I meant the pods. 

They look great. They look like they would image and sound better.


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## IBcivic

hey these turned out nice,man!!!

congrats!


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## scooter99

Thanks! Just got home and am reporting with great news! Two great things happened to me while I was gone. First one was the rolling of the fenders solved my rim rubbing issues, well tire rubbing issues. So I only spent 100.00 for that instead of 1100.00 for new rims and tires in a smaller size. WOOTWOOT!! 

Second thing is my Hertz guy here in town called me and said he didn't order the HL70's for the rear yet because he was meaning to call me. He has an order of grills coming in for the Dieci DCX 100's. So instead of spending 200.00 for the HL 70's I'm only spending 20.00 on the grills! WOOTWOOT!

I'm very happy, after driving around for a while tonight, with the pods and how they're set up. I thought last night after the install that they might be a little too "in your face" so to speak. But after being in the car for a couple hours today, they're not so bad. Got some complaments on them from the shop guys and the owner too by the way! 

Feeling GOOD right now!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so here's where I'm at. I've decided to change directions on the head unit etc. Here's the new gear. Only the head unit and processor are going to change. 

Head unit: Alpine DVA-9861 (Need to buy $449.99 on ebay)
Sirius Unit: Alpine KCA-SC100
Ipod Control: Alpine KCE-422i (Need to buy $8.00 on ebay)
Monitors: Alpine PKG-M780
Processor: Audison Bit One (Need to buy)
Amplifiers: Audison LRx 6.9, Audison LRx 4.1K
Speakers: Mid Bass - Mille 165's
Mid Range - High Energy HL70's 
Tweeters - High Energy HT25's 
Rear Fill - Deici DCX100's

Ive decided to scrap the rear battery idea and just stick with the front HC1800 for now. 

So what I'll be doing, very shortly, is putting a couple things up for sale. I have a crap load of stuff to put up for sale but that didn't work very well here last time so that stuff will most likely go on ebay. Here's what I'm putting up now.

Kinetic HC800 Powercell, BNIB
Optima Yellow Top battery - Replaced this with the HC1800.
Alpine PXA-H701, used but in decent condition. No box, but what I have are the manual, new power cord, and the H701 itself. 
Alpine IVA-W505 head unit. 

So this stuff combined with the other stuff to put on ebay will pay for my Bit One, and the Head unit. If I get a good amount of money I may go with the newer model Alpine DVA-9965. It's a pretty good chunk of change though! 

Thoughts????


----------



## IBcivic

why get rid of the w505?
did you get the ml165's going yet?


----------



## scooter99

No. I never was able to get them in. 

I don't need it anymore really. I have the monitors in back for videos which I only had for the girls anyway, I can't use the digital out because of the special wire I have to have and can't get, and I'm getting rid of the H701 to get the Bit One so I don't need it for the processor controls, and the only other reason to have a screen in front is to have navi and I don't have that either. I had it with the pioneer and didn't use it much at all. That's why I dont have it now. Didn't want to spend the money on it. I would rather get rid of it and the 701, use the money from them to get the bit one and either the DVA 9861 or the DVA 9965.

With it that way I plan to install the single din unit and the drc of the bit one in the double din area. I'm going to fabricate a face and harness to hold them, 9861 on top and the drc on the bottom, or visa versa depending on how it looks. 

That's just what I'm thinking now. I just dont' think I need the 505 anymore.


----------



## IBcivic

i got ya...the alpine nav is so-so at best,anyhow.
i was a little ticked when i saw that the blackbird2 was no better than a 99$ gps.
and ...i'm sure you miss having a knob to control the volume,too.


----------



## scooter99

You know, I really do to be honest with you. Actually that's funny cause I have a pioneer deck in my truck and it has a knob volume control. I HATE IT!! When they made it they didn't put on any grooves and its so small that my god damn sausage fingers slip off it cause I can't grab it. SO i end up using the remote for that. But in my car it's different cause it's right there, and I do miss it.


----------



## Thrill_House

scooter99 said:


> No. I never was able to get them in.
> 
> I don't need it anymore really. I have the monitors in back for videos which I only had for the girls anyway, I can't use the digital out because of the special wire I have to have and can't get, and I'm getting rid of the H701 to get the Bit One so I don't need it for the processor controls, and the only other reason to have a screen in front is to have navi and I don't have that either. I had it with the pioneer and didn't use it much at all. That's why I dont have it now. Didn't want to spend the money on it. I would rather get rid of it and the 701, use the money from them to get the bit one and either the DVA 9861 or the DVA 9965.
> 
> With it that way I plan to install the single din unit and the drc of the bit one in the double din area. I'm going to fabricate a face and harness to hold them, 9861 on top and the drc on the bottom, or visa versa depending on how it looks.
> 
> That's just what I'm thinking now. I just dont' think I need the 505 anymore.


Since when cant you get the optical dongle from alpine for the w505, I spoke with someone from alpine canada less the 6 months ago and they said that part is definatleyt still avaliable?


----------



## scooter99

I haven't found one since I bought this thing. Everytime someone says they're back out they're gone by the time I can buy em! it just seems kind of silly to spend 100.00 on an optical cable when I have a good one in my garage that I can use with a different set up. So if I can sell this stuff and benefit from it by getting my new gear then I think it's plus plus for me. I get new gear without money coming out of my account, and I get to stay married because I didn't spend a grand on new equipment! Like I said...Plus Plus!!


----------



## scooter99

So I just did a small bit of research between the DVA-9861 and the DVA-9965. For what I'm going to be using it for it would be silly to spend the extra $400.00 for the DVA-9965. They practically do the same things, at least that I can tell, and there's no sence in spending extra money that I don't have to. 

If anyone has any experience with these and their relations or comparisons, please let me know, especially if I'm off on my research. I'd love to hear it. Thanks.


----------



## n_olympios

The main differences you have to take into account are the Biolite screen, the motorised face and the Glidetouch. Of course the 9965 has an active crossover etc which the 9861 doesn't, but since you'll be using the BitOne you won't be needing that anyway.


----------



## scooter99

Yeah I would love to have that biolite screen and the motorized face, but I don't know about that glidetouch thing. Not really loving that feature. But for the money I think I'll stick with the 9861, since I'm using the bit one as you said, I don't need the on board processing like the 9965 has. For the extra dough I think I can really live without the other two features. I'll do my best anyway!! 

Are those really the only differences. I know the 9861 has an onboard amp and the 9965 does not, but again I'm using aftermarket amplifiers so that shouldn't be an issue. Are line drivers a necessity when you have no on board amp? Or is that just based on the pre out volts? So like these both, I believe have 4v outs. If they had 2v outs then that's when a line driver would be usable? Never mind I guess I'm getting of track.


----------



## n_olympios

Yes, you are. :laugh:

The internal amp in the 9861 can be shut off, and there is no need to worry about output voltage, the BitOne can handle pretty much any voltage in its inputs. 

Line drivers have nothing to do with whether you have an internal amp or not. They simply take the signal from the line outputs and boost the voltage.


----------



## scooter99

Ok good to know! Thanks for the input. I was just reviewing a little more on the two and while the 9965 doesn't look that bad to control on the glidetouch deal, and I truely love the display and motorized face, it's just not worth 400.00 extra dollars to me. I'm working on one now actually, unless it's sold already which is a possibility, which would put that more like 600.00 extra dollars! So I think for the money I can't pass up the 9861. It would just be dumb on my part. Thanks for all the info. 

I'll keep everyone updated on what goes on from here. Still planning on doing some work. I've got my measurements on the bit one and I'm going to make a mock up so I can start building the trunk. I'm deciding to scrap the rear deck now for sure and I'm going with a more simple set up, but a little bit creative as well. I'm going to make a cardboard mock up of my trunk this week so I can get things ready and I might even start running some wires. It gets dark early now so I can't be out cutting and my wife would kill me to be cutting mdf in teh garage. So that'll have to wait until this weekend. But we're gonna get some serious progress done here really soon. 

Update on the pods, I'm liking them and I can't wait to hear what they sound like. I'm just not in love with them. After hearing what the cars sounded like this weekend at the Nor Cal meet, I'm not convenced that I have to have them so on axis. But I'm going to stick with that for now, and listen to them when they get hooked up, and make my determination at that point. 

Stay tuned folks this could get interesting really quickly!!

Just to make it clear this is what the final set up is going to be!! 

Head unit: Alpine DVA-9861 (Need to buy)
Sirius Unit: Alpine KCA-SC100
Sirius SC-1
Ipod Controls: Alpine KCA-422i (Need to buy)
Bluetooth Unit: Have to figure out what's compatable with the head unit. KCE-400BT or KCE-350BT? (Need to buy)
Fiber Optical Cable: KnuKonceptz eKs-OP5
Processor: Audison Bit One (Need to buy)
Amplifiers: Audison LRx 6.9 (the blue one)
Audison LRx 4.1K (the blue one)
Front Stage: Tweeters - Hertz High Energy HT25
Mid Range - Hertz High Energy HL70
Mid Bass - Hertz Mille ML165
Head Rest Monitors: Alpine PKG-M780
Rear Fill: Hertz Deici DCX100 Coaxals 
Main Battery: Kinetic HC1800 Powercell
Wire, Blocks, and Distribution are all Tsunami. Would like to change to Audison Connection but that depends on money. 
RCA's are home made using Gepco and Canare Start Quad with Neutrik ends.
Pac TR-7 by pass
Pac SW-JACK steering wheel interface (IF I CAN GET THE GOD DAMN THING PROGRAMMED!!!)

I think that about does it! Not that it's not enough!!!:laugh: But I think I'm finally settled on my equipment list. Now to finish the install!!


----------



## n_olympios

I know this might make you change your mind again (lol) but if I were you I wouldn't change the H701 fir the BitOne. Yes, the Audison is the new thing in the audio scene (at least until the MS-8 arrives), and yes, it might be a bit easier to tune than the H701 (although I helped my installer tune one in an Audi Q5 the other day and the interface isn't what you'd call user friendly). However, you'd be paying more for something that essentially makes it more difficult to integrate to the system and more complicated to use. You'lll probably need the DRC as the BitOne is designed to work with it, and you'll also have to connect it to the HU in both analog and digital, otherwise it won't setup. 

With the 9861 and the H701 you only have a standard TOSLINK and the AI-NET cables, and that's it. And another one if you want to put the RUX-C701 as well. 

All I'm saying is that the BitOne doesn't have distinct advantages over the H701 in your case (since you're set on using an Alpine HU, that is), instead there are some drawbacks. That's the way I see it. 

Wow, long post, it's surely addictive in this thread haha.


----------



## kyheng

I've yet to use knu's high end optical cable. But am using their normal optical cable. Compare to last optical that I have, I don't hear any difference between them. I will choose 9965 over 9861(if not mistaken, transport on 9965 is better than 9861). 
I never use the Bit1 before, but there's a very long thread for it with good and bad reviews on it. I won't get my hands on it either as it is still not mature enough.
If really want to have a superior DSP, why not get a H900?


----------



## n_olympios

Well, the most obvious reason would be the price, which, even after so many years after the H900's stop of production, is still more than $1.300 for a decent one. The BitOne costs half that as new, if I'm not mistaken. An H701 combo is even less nowadays. 

About the transport, indeed the 9965 is said to use the same one as the F#1 Status HU. Having said that, if he's going to use the digital out, there won't be any difference in sound. And I've tried them both in the same setup. But hey, that's from a guy who thinks comparing digital cables is unnecessary as they all sound the same so there you go.


----------



## kyheng

Maybe you are right..... Have to let others to confirm this(on the transport). As far as I know, it do have difference. It may not be significant and some may not even tell the difference.


----------



## scooter99

These are all good points and all valid responses. My own opinion is limited but from what I've seen, it appears that the bad issues with the Bit One have been sorted out. I'm not advanced enough in car audio to understand the differences between good and bad transport. As far as the F1 I understand that to be one of the, if not the, best on the market or off the market. I understand that to really be the sports car of the audio industry and if the 9965 has the same internal components then it would seem to me that would be the way to go, however, my pocket book screams for a different option since, again, it's a 400.00 difference. If I'm able to run the optical I don't think it's gonna make a difference in the sounds. I could be wrong, again, I'm not experienced enough to understand it. 

The other thing is that I'm not competeing and I'm not showing, except the occasional meet of the DIYers here. So I'm not so worried about being perfect sounding and being the best out there, even though my competitive genes would beg to differ, but more I'm trying to have a great sounding car and system and be able to be adjustable enough to have my daughters in the car and be able to have them enjoy their music or videos. 

This is all a new experience for me and I'm learning as I go. I know that i need to stop and start listening instead of just buying but at this point I think that's what I'm doing. I'm making up my mind on what I think is the best options for me, and if those don't work I'll hopefully be able to learn how to adjust to different stuff in the future. But I need to stop buying and start building. This is what I've settled on for the equipment and that's what I want to aquire and start using.


----------



## mellowbob

Don't think it was mentioned that the 9861 volume control directly controls the h701 volume so you don't have to fiddle with 2 knobs. Really convenient.


----------



## scooter99

That would be convenient.


----------



## scooter99

Ok I just heard back from the Hertz people on the HL70's. Here's the email. 

Thank you for contacting us. Thank you for purchasing our speakers. As for the HL70’s. They are a free air speaker. However, if you put them in a enclosed environment, please make sure that you use at least 1 liter (.0353 ft3) of air space. I hope this helps.

Now I need to see if that's what I've got going on. Hmmm.

Alos I've been looking into a couple different head units. I'm looking into both the Pioneer DEH-880 and 800PRS. I like what I see. Problem is lack of dvd, so I'll have to go with something like the XDV-P6. Both in dash. Should look nice! We'll see what happens and what I can do.


----------



## scooter99

**** it looks like I'm not going to be able to use these pods. I'm sitting at less than .015 cubic feet in those caps, if you take in account the speaker displacement as well. So i'm about half of where I need to be. Might very well be back to the drawing board! DAMN IT!


----------



## allboutyou23

looking good


----------



## IBcivic

scoot.....is adding depth[longer pipe] out of the question?


----------



## kyheng

Well, if never push out the full potential of W505/701 combo, why not just only spend $100 on fleabay getting that cable? I guess with this way it will save you alot.


----------



## scooter99

stinky06 said:


> scoot.....is adding depth[longer pipe] out of the question?


I think so. They're kind of big at the moment, with consideration of where they're at, and they make me kind of nervous as it is. I think I'm going to re do them. But I'll have to decide on how I'm gonna do it. 

So much going on right now!


----------



## scooter99

kyheng said:


> Well, if never push out the full potential of W505/701 combo, why not just only spend $100 on fleabay getting that cable? I guess with this way it will save you alot.


Not sure I'm understanding what you're saying? Can you explain a little bit?


----------



## kyheng

ALPINE KWE-610A - eBay (item 130338537788 end time Nov-18-09 09:22:02 PST)
This is the cable I mentioned. If your setup still not change, your path is HU(digital>analog) to H701(analog>digital>analog) to amps. It will still sound, but some of the details might be missing. By sending digital signal to H701, it will be better.


----------



## scooter99

Ok I understand what you're saying now. That's not really the main reason I'm selling the stuff. Actually it's because I mainly want the Bit One! If I get the Bit One there's really no reason for me to have the W505 because of that and other personal reasons. The only real reason I have a DVD player is bacause of my daughters. I don't use navi, I don't, obviously watch it myself when movies are playing, and I usualy have it on blackout mode during that time anyway. I don't really care about the ipod interface, nor do I really care for it. There are some glitches in the system that I'm not happy with at all when it comes to the ipod integration. It's not the ipod either cause I've used several and it's done the same thing with all of them. There are more reasons as well, those are just the main ones.


----------



## godfathr

scooter99 said:


> Ok I understand what you're saying now. That's not really the main reason I'm selling the stuff. Actually it's because I mainly want the Bit One! If I get the Bit One there's really no reason for me to have the W505 because of that and other personal reasons. The only real reason I have a DVD player is bacause of my daughters. I don't use navi, I don't, obviously watch it myself when movies are playing, and I usualy have it on blackout mode during that time anyway. I don't really care about the ipod interface, nor do I really care for it. There are some glitches in the system that I'm not happy with at all when it comes to the ipod integration. It's not the ipod either cause I've used several and it's done the same thing with all of them. There are more reasons as well, those are just the main ones.


If you are not wanting to spend anymore money on equipment the cable is definitely the way to go. 
I have a panasonic cable at my shop. It has the same connector on it that Alpine uses. I have one in my Scion that connects my 505 to my 701. If you haven't set yours up and tuned your system properly you might be creating more problems. If you haven't heard one set up yet, you might want to listen to one before you buy different equipment. Also, if you are into SQ, ditch the ipod anyway, cd's are not compressed and sound way better anyway!
Let me know if you need the cable, I have one and will give you a killer deal!
GF


----------



## scooter99

I'm gonna be down in v-ville on wednesday. Are you gonna be at the shop? If so I'd like to come listen to the scion.


----------



## godfathr

scooter99 said:


> I'm gonna be down in v-ville on wednesday. Are you gonna be at the shop? If so I'd like to come listen to the scion.


We open at 10 and close @ 6:30.
Look forward to meeting you
GF


----------



## scooter99

Ok buddy I'll see you wednesday!


----------



## scooter99

Ok that's it! I pulled the trigger! Pioneer Premier DEH-P800PRS has been ordered! Possibly ordering the Pioneer XDV-P6 today as well!


----------



## scooter99

Stinky06, I'm gonna bounce these hook up thoughts off you really quickly (HA I SAID QUICKLY :laugh, since I know you have a Bit One, and of course anyone else can chime in, I just know he has one and I thought he could help me with this. 

I have a couple of questions to start that I have no idea about but if I can do these then I want to and have incorporated them into my hook up ideas. 

1) If you use an optical Digital in, do you need the rca's or is the optical line the way the sound comes in from the source?

2) On the Bit One can you choose what speakers or channels are on or off in different modes, ie aux 1 or aux 2? 

Here's the link to the Audison Bit One Instructions in case anyone needs them to follow along. 

http://www.audison.eu/xml/products/pdf/audison_support_manuals/BitOne/audison_Bit_One_manual_eng.pdf

Ok so a little run down.

The Pioneer DEH-P800PRS has three outputs for RCA's. Front Rear and Subs. The Ipod box will run through the 800PRS via the control box and the IP bus wire. Same thing with the Srius unit so those will be controled from the 800PRS. If anyone needs the install instructions for the 800PRS here is the link for those.

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/PUSA/Files/DEH-P800PRS_InstallationManual12010.pdf

The Pioneer XDV-P6 is a whole other story. I can either hook it up to run through the 800PRS or make it a stand alone unit and run it through the Bit One's Aux 1 then control the volume through the DRC. This is where I get a little bit confused. But I'm going to give it a try anyway. Here is the installation manual for the XDV-P6.

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/vgn/images/portal/cit_11221/310145717XDVP6InstallationManual.pdf

Ok so here goes my thoughts on hooking everything up. 

From the 800PRS.
The Front L and R output RCA's will go to the 1 & 2 Pre In Channels on the Bit One. 
The Rear R and L output RCA's will go to the 3 & 4 Pre In Channels on the Bit One. 
The Sub R and L output RCA's will go to the 5 & 6 Pre In Channels on the Bit One. 

This is where I get a little confused again, but this is what I think is going to happen. The switch on the 800PRS is going to be on the STD (standard) mode not the NW (Network) mode. 

Where I'm confused is that if it's on NW mode, which activates the internal processor, then the output RCA's read as Mid/Front, High/Rear, Low/Subwoofer. It essentially reads it as running the Highs, Mid Ranges, and Mid Bass but takes out the Subwoofer right? In the standard mode it shows it as front rear and sub. It also only shows it going into the amps and no processor in between, obviously the processor being used is the internal one. So that then changes things and would make it where you need it on STD mode right?  

Moving on!

From the XDV-P6. 
The audio will be done via the optical digital output to the optical digital input on the Bit One. I think that I can set the Aux 1 to be the optical digital input instead of the analog L & R. Then from the XDV-P6 the video cable goes from the video output to the video input of the Alpine PKG-M780. That will supply the video signal to the screens. 

**On a side note if I ran the DVD player through the 800PRS via the bus cable then I could just use the 800PRS RCA's as the signals to the Bit One, provided I can set up options the way I want to, and control everything from the 800PRS and only have one volume to mess with. That would make life way easier! I'll get back to the options!**

The amplifiers will be set to run like this:

LRx 6.9
Channels 1 & 2 - Tweeters
Channels 3 & 4 - Mid Range
Channels 5 & 6 - Rear Fill

LRx 4.1K 
Channels 1 & 2 - Mid Bass
Channels 3 & 4 - Subs (bridged)

That being said lets go to the Bit One outputs.

Channels 1 & 2 will be out to the LRx 6.9 Channels 1 & 2.
Channels 3 & 4 will be out to the LRx 6.9 Channels 3 & 4.
Channels 5 & 6 will be out to the LRx 4.1K Channels 1 & 2.
Channel 7 will need to be a single out that splits into the LRx 6.9 Channels 5 & 6.
Channel 8 will need to be a single out that splits into the Lrx 4.1K Channels 3 & 4. 

The Setup!

In normal playing mode (ipod, radio, sirius, cd's) I want to be able to have a couple of options. 
Option #1 - The front stage on, the sub on, and the rear fill off. 
Option #2 - The front stage on, the sub off, and the rear fill off for when I'm listening to music and the kids are in the car. 

In Aux 1 mode or DVD mode, depending on how the XDV-P6 ends up being hooked up, I want to do a couple of things as well. 
Option #1 - The front stage is on, the sub is off, and the rear stage is on. 
Option #2 - Front stage, rear fill, and subs all on. 

My Goals or what I'm trying to achieve with the set up.
To somehow get to where the rear fill plays only when the dvd is going or the headrest monitors are on. 

I don't know if the best way to do that is to hook up the XDV-P6 in a stand alone mode or if there's a way to hook it up in through the Bus cable and then adjust the settings so the rear fill is off except for certain options. 

I also have the option while I'm using the Alpine PKG-M780 to use the Aux 3 on the brain as an output. I don't know if this opens up the door for any of you to figure out another way of hooking this up. I think that's all the options I have. Here's the manual for that by the way. 

http://support.alpine-usa.com/products/documents/OM_PKG-M780.PDF

I don't know the Bit One really well but I've kind of been looking at the instructions and set up menus etc, and WOW , this has me a little nervous! I know I already have help with the set up and tuning but I still have to wire it correctly and that's what I'm trying to get figured out. I also know I can't just depend on othe people to do that for me, although I'm taking up everyone's offer that wants to I think, but I need to learn to do it. The unfortunate part is that I'm best learning when I'm hands on. If someone stands there and teaches me while I do it, I'll have it and most of the time understand it. Sorry got off track. 

So there it is, hopefully I get some responses otherwise I'll have to try it out somehow and fix it and work by trial and error. :worried:

Ok my brain is fried right now! I'll await feedback. 

On a differnt note, I bought some poster board today and I'm going to start making a mock up of the trunk so I can start building that and the IB set up this weekend. There's gonna be some wood flyin around this weekend!! WOOTWOOT!!

Good night all!!!


----------



## n_olympios

Hmmm...

I've got a feeling it won't be long until you change your plans again. These all sound nice, but the fact is that ease of use is very important in car audio. You've gone from a fairly simple, all-in-one solution to 3-4 different components, all seperately controlled. 

I still think you should stick to the H701 and Alpine HU, they do all you ask and more. Especially since you care about multimedia (granted, only for the kids at the back).


----------



## scooter99

Ok so here's the deal. The H701 is gone now. It shipped out yesterday and I have a potential buyer for the W505. So that is gone now and I've got the new stuff already coming. 

You know what, I had this big thing typed out and instead of that I erased it and I'll just say I'll just do it myself somehow. 

Thanks and sorry to inconvenience every one with "my choices". I'll just do trial and error and hope I can get it correct. 

Look for progress pictures soon.


----------



## mellowbob

Holy cow that's pretty complicated. That's a lot of RCAs running to the back. Can you bypass the RCAs and link up the 2 units via bus then have only one optical going to your bit one?


----------



## scooter99

I'm not seeing that the 800PRS has the option for optical. If it does then sure I'd love to do that. If not then I'll have to do the RCA's. I make my own anyway so I'm not worried about that, but the optical would be the best option. I think I may just hook up via the bus anyway to the 800prs. I don't know.


----------



## ErinH

800prs does not have optical. 

Man, I read through your post and got really confused, Scott. I started to type out a reply but didn't know where to begin.
I gave you a ring yesterday. If you'd like to call me tonight maybe I could talk about your ideas and we could figure something out. But, I don't know how much help I can be on this.


----------



## scooter99

I did get your message and was actually really busy at work all of a sudden. I would like to bounce some stuff off you, as being another Bit One owner, but I think right now I'm going to hold off and just refocus on selling the rest of my stuff I need to get the componets I need, XDV-P6, and the Bit One. 

I'm gonna work on the trunk and the install in the meantime. I'm not going to worry about this right now. There's lots to be built and frankly I'm getting brain fried thinking about how to hook up. It's starting to get more frustrating and less fun and that's not what this is supposed to be. So I'm gonna walk away from this right now and concentrate on the build part. 

Thanks!

How's your wife's car comming along?


----------



## ErinH

You need to be thinking about how you're going to hook it up, though, imo for the simple reason that you don't want to have to run wires more than you have to. Figure it out up front, run wires to trunk, wire it up and be done back there. 


Her car is coming. Whodathunk that 2 8's in the rear deck would need so much power and rattle the crap out of the car. :/


----------



## scooter99

I don't know but it sounds like it's doing well huh. Is it rattleing as in needs deadening or rattleing like putting out a ton of bass? What kind of car is it? I think you told me before. 

You're right on the hooking up before. What I'm talking about in working on the build is cutting wood and such to get the trunk started for the IB and the amp rack. But you're right. I'll try and call you tonight. What is the latest you want me to call PST? I have softball tonight, double header, from 6 to 8. So that would be about 10 your time provided I get right in the car which never happens. Maybe I can just wait till this weekend and call you. I'm gonna work on the trunk this weekend so I'll just call you before I start anything. What about that?


----------



## ErinH

you can call me this weekend, or whenever you want tonight. if I answer, I'm awake. lol. 

You may have it figured out by then. I just think that the connections should be #1 on your list. Nothing worse than realizing you did a ton of work and either it's not going to work, or you have to rip apart everything to make it work.


----------



## n_olympios

scooter99 said:


> Thanks and sorry to inconvenience every one with "my choices".


I was hoping you wouldn't get me wrong but it seems I failed.  

I didn't mean to criticize you or your efforts/decisions, I was just expressing my worry that it'll be much more difficult to install, setup and operate than you (or anyone) could handle. And on the other hand I envy your braveness to follow paths that noone else would care for, just for the fun of it.


----------



## scooter99

Thanks. I think I've figured out the install now though. Just have to do more research on how the Bit One works to make sure that I can do what I'm planning. Sorry to sound so unapreciative, I'm just frustrated, not anyone elses problem of coarse. So I appologize. 

I'd be ok if someone would buy the rest of my stuff!!


----------



## IBcivic

lol,scoot, you got me confused too...
i may be wrong but ...if your dvd player is for the kids only....why not just run it straight to an amp input w/o going through the processor....essentially the rear speakers will be for video/audio playback only. and if you desire to have ''barney the dino-eyesore'' play through your main system,use an auxiliary input,if you do so desire. then,IMO the rest of your system would be a regular 3-way+sub.
or did i miss the point?


----------



## scooter99

I'll message you about it lkater. I'm about to play softball.


----------



## scooter99

Oh man I took two huge hits today. First the W505 sold but I gave the wrong email address so the buyer had to stop payment and it's gonn a take a while to get the money. MY STUPID FAULT! Then to top things off I get an email from the guy I bought the P800PRS from, saying he was out of stock and that he took the ad off ebay last week and that he was sorry. He's refunding me my money but now I'm having trouble finding one even close to that price. GRRRRRRRRRRRRR!! Not been my day!!!


----------



## IBcivic

oh man... [w505]

hey , you may find a better deal later on...patience


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

scooter99 said:


> From the 800PRS.
> *The Front L and R output RCA's will go to the 1 & 2 Pre In Channels on the Bit One.
> The Rear R and L output RCA's will go to the 3 & 4 Pre In Channels on the Bit One.
> The Sub R and L output RCA's will go to the 5 & 6 Pre In Channels on the Bit One. *
> 
> This is where I get a little confused again, but this is what I think is going to happen. The switch on the 800PRS is going to be on the STD (standard) mode not the NW (Network) mode.
> 
> Where I'm confused is that if it's on NW mode, which activates the internal processor, then the output RCA's read as Mid/Front, High/Rear, Low/Subwoofer. It essentially reads it as running the Highs, Mid Ranges, and Mid Bass but takes out the Subwoofer right? In the standard mode it shows it as front rear and sub. It also only shows it going into the amps and no processor in between, obviously the processor being used is the internal one. So that then changes things and would make it where you need it on STD mode right?
> 
> Moving on!
> 
> From the XDV-P6.
> The audio will be done via the optical digital output to the optical digital input on the Bit One. I think that I can set the Aux 1 to be the optical digital input instead of the analog L & R. Then from the XDV-P6 the video cable goes from the video output to the video input of the Alpine PKG-M780. That will supply the video signal to the screens.
> 
> **On a side note if I ran the DVD player through the 800PRS via the bus cable then I could just use the 800PRS RCA's as the signals to the Bit One, provided I can set up options the way I want to, and control everything from the 800PRS and only have one volume to mess with. That would make life way easier! I'll get back to the options!**
> 
> The amplifiers will be set to run like this:
> 
> LRx 6.9
> Channels 1 & 2 - Tweeters
> Channels 3 & 4 - Mid Range
> Channels 5 & 6 - Rear Fill
> 
> LRx 4.1K
> Channels 1 & 2 - Mid Bass
> Channels 3 & 4 - Subs (bridged)
> 
> That being said lets go to the Bit One outputs.
> 
> Channels 1 & 2 will be out to the LRx 6.9 Channels 1 & 2.
> Channels 3 & 4 will be out to the LRx 6.9 Channels 3 & 4.
> Channels 5 & 6 will be out to the LRx 4.1K Channels 1 & 2.
> Channel 7 will need to be a single out that splits into the LRx 6.9 Channels 5 & 6.
> Channel 8 will need to be a single out that splits into the Lrx 4.1K Channels 3 & 4.
> 
> The Setup!


The first thing I notice is the part in Bold:

Ok you are using the 800prs to controller all your add ons (Ipod etc...) great. Now all you need to do is set the 800prs in standard mode and use one set of RCA's back to the BitOne and let the BitOne handle all the routing of the signal to the amps. 

Now either run your XDV-P6 thru your 800prs or optical into the BitOne. I like the optical into the BitOne and use the DRC to switch between master input (800prs analog input) and Optical input (XDV-P6). 

Just remember if you run the Optical input from the XDV-P6 into the BitOne the volume has to be controlled via the DRC; verses the volume being controlled via the 800prs if you ran that way. Not sure if this would be a issue for you, not sure where your going to mount the DRC. Audison recommends you use the DRC for volume controll anyways, but it not a must when running analog input.

This is not the only way it can be done, but it makes setting up the Bit One a bit easier for you. 

Hope this helps, if I missed something or miss understood something i'm sorry and please point it out to me so I can do my best to correct my reply or answer your question. Erin will be able to help you father when you speak with him.

Now I see you are going to run refill. Not sure what drivers you are planing to do as refill, but I would recommend doing a midrange driver only. As tweeter behind you tends to pull the image and stage more to the rear. Now to get you rear fill signal, I would send the signal from:

LRx 6.9

* Channels 3 & 4 - Mid Range*
to
Channels 5 & 6 - Rear Fill

Doing it this way the rear fill can be kept at a lower volume via the amp gains, making the just add a little all around you spaciousness to the sound.


----------



## ErinH

scooter99 said:


> Oh man I took two huge hits today. First the W505 sold but I gave the wrong email address so the buyer had to stop payment and it's gonn a take a while to get the money. MY STUPID FAULT! Then to top things off I get an email from the guy I bought the P800PRS from, saying he was out of stock and that he took the ad off ebay last week and that he was sorry. He's refunding me my money but now I'm having trouble finding one even close to that price. GRRRRRRRRRRRRR!! Not been my day!!!


Maybe you should just keep the w505 then? 

Could be a sign. lol.


----------



## scooter99

stinky06 said:


> oh man... [w505]
> 
> hey , you may find a better deal later on...patience


I hear ya! Everything seems to be blowing up in my face at the moment so I'm gonna step back and pull up the reins for now. 

I can't seem to locate one of these decks anywhere. Everyone has them on their websites in stock but I'm sending out emails now to before I just buy and they're all coming back as out of stock and almost all are saying that Pioneer is re releasing the P800PRS but they don't know when yet. That's why they're on their sites still. 

Anyway, my dvd player did ship today so that's a plus, I have a good lead on a brand new bit one here locally, and now I just need to figure out the head unit issue as it can be figured out. 

I was also thinking, I can buy a referbished one on ebay for now, they're going for pretty cheap and use that until I can find a new or newer used one. Then the referbished one can go in my truck when I swap it out of the car. It's worth considering because I'm stripping the car saturday to start the build and shipp off some stuff etc. I'm gonna be without a head unit completely. 

What do you or anyone for that matter think about the referbs? They should be fixed and better right, or you would think anyway. That the bugs and kinks would be worked out of them. Hmmm. Just a thought. 

Bottom line is I'm gonna downshift a bit. I know what I want and what I want to do and how to wire it up, so I think I'm going to move forward with the build and just worry about that and updating as I get them on here. 

Thanks for everyone's support and information btw incase I haven't said it already.


----------



## scooter99

H-Audio - AKA - Here-I-Come said:


> The first thing I notice is the part in Bold:
> 
> Ok you are using the 800prs to controller all your add ons (Ipod etc...) great. Now all you need to do is set the 800prs in standard mode and use one set of RCA's back to the BitOne and let the BitOne handle all the routing of the signal to the amps.


That would make things easy since I already have the RCA's built for that. I wasn't aware I could do that, obviously. I thought I had to use all three. Thanks. 



Now either run your XDV-P6 thru your 800prs or optical into the BitOne. I like the optical into the BitOne and use the DRC to switch between master input (800prs analog input) and Optical input (XDV-P6).
Just remember if you run the Optical input from the XDV-P6 into the BitOne the volume has to be controlled via the DRC; verses the volume being controlled via the 800prs if you ran that way. Not sure if this would be a issue for you said:


> I thought about doing it this way but can the aux 1 on the bit one be set up with it's own presets or does it matter? I guess the presets would be the same it's just the master control that changes, aux 1, main, aux 2 or whatever right? So I could still set it up once the way I want it, not for every master control? Does that make since? I wouldn't mind setting it up optical, I have the cable already, I just wasn't sure on the set up.
> 
> This is not the only way it can be done, but it makes setting up the Bit One a bit easier for you.
> 
> Hope this helps, if I missed something or miss understood something i'm sorry and please point it out to me so I can do my best to correct my reply or answer your question. Erin will be able to help you father when you speak with him.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I see you are going to run refill. Not sure what drivers you are planing to do as refill said:
> 
> 
> 
> Channels 3 & 4 - Mid Range[/B]
> to
> Channels 5 & 6 - Rear Fill
> 
> Doing it this way the rear fill can be kept at a lower volume via the amp gains, making the just add a little all around you spaciousness to the sound.
> 
> 
> 
> You know honestly the only reason I have the rear fill is because I have a dvd player and headrest screens cause I have two daughters and they watch movies on our long commute home and to daycare/school etc. Otherwise it's off. So I'm not so concerned about sound quality etc when it comes to that. I'm doing away with the screen in front so I won't be watching any movies for myself up front anyway, and if I did I'd just leave it on front stage and subs anyway. So again I'm not worried about the sound quality and centering etc when it comes to that. I'm using Hertz Dieci DCX100's (4 1/2" coaxals) in the rear by the way. I thought about going with a second set of Hertz High Energy HL70's but I didn't wanna spend that type of dough on rear fill so my kids could listen to movies. I already had the coaxals anyway.
> 
> Thanks for all your information. That helps for sure!
> 
> 
> BTW - I don't know how to multi quote that's why it looks so weird. The second one I can't get to quote correctly. I just copied and pasted the formats.
Click to expand...


----------



## scooter99

bikinpunk said:


> Maybe you should just keep the w505 then?
> 
> Could be a sign. lol.


I thought about that too.


----------



## scooter99

Ok I got an email back confirming a brand new P800PRS and I bought it for only 30.00 more than the first one. DVD player has shipped, and the W505 is sold finally. Today is shaping up well so far. Still waiting for my return money on the first unit though. Once I get that I'll have enough for the Bit One. Could be a great day!! TGIF!!!


----------



## IBcivic

woo-hoo!!!!!!!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so tomorrow I start tearing down the car and get this thing under way. I'm pulling everything out of it and just building. I'm going to use my truck, ****TY GAS MILEAGE BUT IT'S THE SACRIFICE I MAKE FOR THE SAKE OF THE BUILD, as my daily driver. 

Here's the final equipment list! This is the final final list. The only thing that might change is the rear headrest monitors. But we'll see if that happens or not. 

Head unit: Pioneer Premier DEH-P800PRS 
DVD In-Dash Unit: Pioneer SDV-P7
Sirius Unit: Pioneer SIR-PNR2 
Ipod Control: CD-IB100II
Steering wheel interface - Pac SWI-PS
Monitors: Alpine PKG-M780 (Possibly changing to the Pioneer AVD-W6200 6.5" screens)
Processor: Audison Bit One 
Amplifiers: Audison LRx 6.9, Audison LRx 4.1K
Speakers: Mid Bass - Mille 165's 
Mid Range - High Energy HL70's
Tweeters - High Energy HT25's 
Rear Fill - Deici DCX100's
Subs: AE IB 15's

This is the final set up. The build starts tomorrow, with exception of the pods that I've already done! 

If I ever get my DAMN REFUND FROM EBAY, I have a bit one ready for me!! Thanks Vince for helping me! 

BTW anyone local in the Vacaville area or surrounding areas, should go check out Vince's shop. Great guy, nice set up, and the Freaking SCION sounds AMAZING!!!! That was a great experience to listen to that! Thanks! 

I also got my new suede in for the headrests. I ordered the wrong colors last time, I'm gonna use those somewhere else. Maybe in the trunk somewhere. 

Ok progress pics as they come!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so it's happening. There's no turning back now. She's naked! Well almost. I have the door panels to take off still and the driver seat is staying in and out since I have to drive it to and from the side of the house to the garage. The ceiling is coming out so I can deaden that as well. So right now as she sits her top is on but the pants are off baby!!! WOOTWOOT!!!

Pics.













This is the template I made of the trunk. This way I can take this into the house, where it's not FREEZING COLD OUTSIDE, and layout the equipment on the floor and then I can transfer it onto wood. This is just some poster board I bought from office depot for about $5.00. Oh and blue tape!


Need storage space!




So now I'm going to get started laying out the trunk, on my template, and then I'll be working on the IB wall. I have to foam up, or seal up, the spaces between the trunk and the cab. Then I'll be building the wall. When I do that and get ready to actually put the wall in, I'll mark out on my template where that'll be so I can cut my template to be exactly where I want it. 

I have the deadener ordered for the cab. I'll have the Bit One by the end of the week. Might possibly have some new power connections comming, we'll see how that works out. Hopefully the DVD player and Head unit will be here this week so I can get started on the dash beezle for those as well. I kept the double din trim ring that came with my metra kit, I'm gonna try and see about modding that to fit around both of the units, dvd and H/U. Not sure how I'm going to do that just yet. 

Gonna have to make some new install and wireing diagrams now too. That's unfortunate but that's the way life goes sometimes. I was pretty happy with the way the rear wireing panel turned out, but I think I can improve on it. It's most likely going in the trunk now anyway. Probably in one of the rear corner cubbies. We'll see how the layout works. 

That's all for now!


----------



## MaXaZoR

Can't wait to see the finished results. Also be careful not to hot swap the RCA's on that Pioneer Premier DEH-P800PRS otherwise get ready for some alt noise issues.


----------



## scooter99

Ok you're gonna have to explain that a little bit to me. What do you mean hot swap the rca's?


----------



## IBcivic

hot is when every thing is powered up...

just make sure everything is powered down before un-plugging your rca's


----------



## scooter99

Ahhhh, that makes since! Ok. I'm not planning to hook up any power till everything is hooked up anyway. I've heard too many stories about these uints and the pico fuses, etc. I want to be sure that I make the correct connections and not power anything up until I'm done installing. 

I should have most of the layout done tonight. I'll post pics of it when I get a chance to. I'm for sure working on building the trunk next weekend, saturday. I have all day to myself and the saw and the wood! Should see some good progress!


----------



## IBcivic

scooter99 said:


> I have all day to myself and i've got wood!


 TMI TMI!!!!........:laugh::laugh::laugh:


----------



## scooter99

WOW!!!! :laugh:


----------



## IBcivic

sorry i just couldn't resist


----------



## IBcivic

did you get any mail yet?


----------



## scooter99

Sorry man, YES I DID, thank you! I've been so busy and preoccupied I forgot to thank you! My bad!!! Did you get a chance to check on that stuff?


----------



## IBcivic

no...not till this thursday.. i am chasing down a visa for my up-comming visit to china ,today.
and my guy only works from Wednesday to Saturdays. but i'm on it
no problems for the package...just needed to know if it got there... if you noticed, those grills are exactly the same size as the oem's attempt of a grill


----------



## IBcivic

are the pods deep enough for the woofers?


----------



## scooter99

I did notice it but only by glancing at the grill and the oem separately. I'm gonna make that work to my bennefit!!! I'm so excited about this build. I have this binder next to me just waiting for lunch time so I can start planing my diagram of the hook up.


----------



## scooter99

Which woofers? The Mille's or the HL70's?


----------



## scooter99

Ok a little update. I sat down and did all the new wire harness diagrams and new block wire diagrams. Unfortunately I have to scrap the one I just mnade, but that's the way it goes I guess. So tonight I'm planning to do the layout of the trunk on my template. Still waiting for the ups, fedex, usps people to deliver my equipment, but that will come in due time. I don't have any pics of the diagrams yet cause I'm not sure I can do it with using excel. But I'll post pics as soon as I can.


----------



## scooter99

Ok so another daily update. I've got presents waiting for me at work. I'm at my parents today, but I've got presents there and I've got a little present with me as well that I picked up today! Thanks Vince!! 

I also ordered my carpet today for the trunk that I'll be working on this weekend. Hopefully things will go to plan, fingers crossed, and I'll get that bad boy built for the most part. Oh things are starting to move! WOOTWOOT!!


----------



## IBcivic

let me guess....begins with bit and ends with one?


----------



## scooter99

Yes sir! The Audison family has been united!!! Thought I had my dvd player today but I guess I missread it. It's tomorrow. Things are slowly rolling in!


----------



## scooter99

MORE STUFF IS IN!!! Came in to work tonight for some OT, worked construction today so I'm catching up at the office. Came in to see 3 nice size boxes in my chair! What could this stuff be!!!!! Why is it Christmas already? Oh it's my DVD player, Pioneer P800PRS, and my deadener! Nice nice!! So today I ordered my Pioneer Headrest Screens, AVD-W7900. I also ordered some stuff from parts express yesterday for the install, carpet, rca ends, and some other stuff. I also ordered my leds as well today. Those are not as important but it's all stuff that's going in. 

So we're still on track for trunk building this weekend. When I start that up, I'll take a picture of all the goodies that are going in the car. 

Still waiting to find out about my Audison Connection equipment, but I'm being patient for that as well. I have lots to do before I get to that point. I have the money now for it though so when it's available I'll be jumping on it! That will essentially complete my equipment list! 

I am definitly excited to start the build this weekend. 

On a separate note, I'm not sure I'm happy with the pods in the pillars. I may switch that up, even though I know I haven't heard them yet and I've been told on numerous occasions that I should wait. The more I look at them the more I like another idea I have and I think I'm going to be giving that one a try. But that's at a later date and I'm not going to worry about it at this time. I am going to take out the drivers, however because I have to take the pillar trims out for deadening etc, so I don't want to risk any damage to the drivers while those are sitting out! 

Ok enough jabbering from me! Stay tuned!!! It's about to go down!!!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so I managed to tough out being sick and get out and do some wood work today. It doesn't look like I did much but I wasn't moving all that fast either, like I said I'm sick. So without further adoo, the pics! 

Now this is the first time I've ever done an IB wall and this is by no means finished. However, as far as I'm concerned with this part of it, I'm ready to carpet and move on to sealing up the trunk. Take a look!!

This is my bucket o parts!! From the tear down! Had to clear the trunk for the build.


And the build.








This is where I added a second layer to the front.


There is also a third layer inside the box. The first and third layer are the same size and will be used as the strength, basically, where the subs attach to. The last picture of the second layer is what will allow the subs to be flush mounted, so to speak. Later there will be a beauty panel over that layer to hide the entire set up. 

Sub holes cut in. YES, I used a jig saw! I don't have a router and I didn't see it very cost effective for me to even go buy a cheap one. The holes are pretty round and the subs fit very well in there. No need to worry about it. Again, any flaws will be coverd up by the beauty panel. 




That's pretty much all I got a chance to do today. Had to go to dinner tonight for my mother in laws birthday. The carpet should be in on monday. Once that gets in I'll get to covering the inside of this thing and we'll see about what else gets covered. I may just cover the entire thing, that way it's clean when the beauty panel is off. Well see how all that goes. 

The next big step is sealing off everything. Once that's done then I can make the beauty panel and the wall will be done. Then on to the amp rack!! 

Still have to take pics of the new car audio family going in the car, but that will come with time. Speaking of time, more pics, and install to come when there's some of that!


----------



## IBcivic

yeah,now that's what i've been waiting for!! very nice


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## scooter99

Thanks! Now take a look at this!!!

Here's the new family! New family DIY family! 



Pioneer DEH-P800PRS


Pioneer SDV-P7


Pioneer Ipod Module, Pioneer Sirius Unit, Pioneer Bluetooth Unit


Audison LRx 6.9


Audsion LRx 4.1K


Hertz HL70 and HT25


Hertz Mille 165


Hertz DCX-100


AE IB15's


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## scooter99

And the piece that brings it all together!

Audison Bit One.1 


Still to come, shipping as we speak, are the head rest screens. Pioneer AVD-W7900's

And just a test, but this is what the head unit and the dvd player will look like together! Aren't they just cute!!!!! Ahhhhhhhhhh!!




My only two issues are these. Number one, I'm not sure of the look of these two together. I'm almost thinking that the XDV-P6 would've been a better fit looks wise. The difference is that this has an operating screen and the P6 does not. However, the P6 has a face that looks very similar in finish as the 800PRS. It is however, an extra 250.00. For that I'm gonna stick with this for now and see if it'll grow on me! 

Number two the bezzle and the piece that goes over the steering column need to be painted because the bezzle does not match and I've been looking at it for the last 2 years and I'm tired of it. SO I'm going to repaint them to match each other. 

The good thing about this part is that the two units bolt into the brackets I used for the W505 so no mods are needed. I even put the metra trim piece in there for the double din unit, and it looks perfect. I thought I'd really need a piece between the two units but it doesn't. At least I don't think so. 

So that's all for now! Gonna work on layout of the trunk this week and hopefully sometime soon, seal up the trunk and then start building that amp rack.


----------



## scooter99

Well unfortunately I've been down sick yesterday and today so noting new to update today. But I'm going to try and get out there soon and do some more work. Gas is killing me in the silverado. I wanna get back to 30.00 a tank not the 60.00 I've been putting in! OUCH!!


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## scooter99

Ok I've posted up on the classifieds page, the Pioneer SDV-P7 DVD player. I'm not really happy with the way it looks next to the PRS. I'd like to see if I can sell this and pick up a XDV-P6, like I originally wanted. That's what I get for trying to save money. Should've just gone that route in the first place. 

I'm asking what I paid for it, $195 shipped. If someone will buy this I'll be able to get the P6. It is just closer and better in looks to the PRS than this one. I know it's a silly reason but I'm the one who has to look at it every day! 

Here are the specs on the pioneer website if anyone needs to see. 
Pioneer USA - Audio/Video Components

You can see the pics above, if you scroll up, as to what it looks like.


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## kyheng

I guess this you are the man that change gears like change cloths.


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## scooter99

I wouldn't say that. I think I just made a bad decision. I'm happy, seriously, with all my other equipment. It's not even that I'm unhappy with this. If I can sell it great, I'll buy the P6 if not then I'll hang onto it. That's all. We'll see what happens!


----------



## scooter99

Little update! 

A new addition came to the family today! Well twins really! Headrest screens are here! I'll post up pics later! 

Now the last thing I need for this whole set up, well last two. I need my audison connection gear, waiting patiently to hear about that stuff, and I'm trying to sell my dvd player and get the other one now. But that's not as important as the audison stuff. I'll live with the dvd player unless I sell some more stuff and can afford it. We'll have to wait and see. The connection stuff I need to make everything work. It'll come, I'm not worried! 

Feeling better today! Got some stuff shipped out that I sold, and that makes me worry less, and I'm going to go work on the car if I get a chance today! 

Happy thanksgiving to all if I don't talk to anyone!!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so I got a little bit done today, but without further adoo, meet the twins!!! 

Pioneer AVD-W7900 Headrest screens




This is what they'll look like in their bed, if you will. Not installed just sitting in there btw.


Now then onto the little bit I did today. I got off work early for the holiday and picked up the girls and came home. Girls in bed I had a couple hours to myself. 

So I put in some insulation to start sealing up the trunk to the cab. Still lots of work to go on this but i'm waiting for it to dry, and I ran out of insulation. Here are the pics.




Next I got my package from Parts Express yesterday, which consisted of some spray deadener for the inside of the front doors, some exrta rca connectors, and some charcoal grey carpet. So I decided I'd get the box carpeted and see where I was at from there. 


The inside.




Next was the outside. Now on the outside, with the way it fits into the car and taking into fact the beauty panel that's going to be covering it, I decided I'd only do the front of the box. Not the sides, top, or bottom. No reason to waste the materials. So this is the outside.


----------



## scooter99

In the car from the trunk




From the front passenger seat. 


Overall I'm pretty happy with the way it came out. I'm in no way a professional at the upholstery, however, I'm not an idiot either. This stuff is pretty easy to put on. It stretches really well and is easy for curves and corners. It's not an exact match on the trunk trims, however, with the way this stuff stretches I may think seriously now about re covering the couple of trims that I have in there. I think it might be worth it in the end. 

So I still have to go to depot tonight and get some more insulation and I have to get some other stuff too. I need some longer screws to install the drivers. I need some more spray glue as well. I know I'm forgetting about something but I'll remember when I'm at the toy store, I mean the depot!!

That's all for now. More when I get a chance!


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## IBcivic

hey man looks nice! can't wait to see those sexy AE's in there.


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## scooter99

You know what, I wanted to get them in tonight but didn't get a chance. I bought the longer screws to go in. I have to drill out the holes and put in the t-nuts so I can install them. I'll get there this weekend sometime. I'm happy with the progress right now. Although I do wish it was going a little faster. Oh well I'll take the time as I can get it!


----------



## IBcivic

just take your time and do it right the first time.


----------



## scooter99

THAT'S FOR DAMN SURE!!!! I have a feeling that taking my time isn't going to be the issue here!!!:laugh:


----------



## scooter99

So this has nothing to do with my build but this is what I've been doing all day! The start of another project! I love this time of year!!!


----------



## scooter99

A little update on equipment. I'm on the verge of selling the SDV-P7, I think, and I'm also on the verge of selling the AVIC-D3 as well. If that happens, I'll be getting that XDV-P6 for sure. Probably know for sure by the end of next week. Until then I have to now work tomorrow but I'm going to try and get the Subs in tomorrow night. Gonna spend some quality time with my wife tonight or I'd put em in tonight. 

So my next step in this project is to get the subs in. After that I'm going to continue to seal up the trunk and cab wall. I got some more insulation the other day, which should be more than enough to finish the project. After that I'm going to seal up the insulation with some sound deadener. Then the trims will go back in. I'll seal up the box to the rest of the wall with some 1/8" ply, and then insulate and deaden that as well. Once all that is done, I'll be able to make the beauty panel and the IB wall will be complete! Then onto the amp rack!!! 

Ah to have a week off, I couldn't even imagine how much work I could get done! 

Goodnight all!!


----------



## scooter99

Ok well I started to install the subs tonight and ran into some issues. Easy fix issues but issues that kept me from getting the job done tonight. The screws I got are too small for one. They're too short by about 1/2". Easy fix, I'll get new longer ones. I started putting in the T-Nuts and I have one at the bottom of the sub on each one, that is really close to the angle of the wall, and I cannot get a clean shot at it with a hammer. So I tried to screw in the screws to sink it in, and lost three nuts in the process. So I need another pack of t-nuts, again an easy fix. The hardest part of the issues goes to the carpet. My inexperience shows on this one, because I should've put the subs in and drilled my holes before I carpeted the box. Well when I drilled them with the carpet alredy on, I managed to screw up the carpet and it pulled away from the box and got all screwed up. It's just the back side, or inside I guess you can call it, but I had to pull off most of it and will have to re carpet the inside when I get the last couple of nuts in. 

Otherwise the holes are drilled, and what T-Nuts I was able to use are in, including the ones that I had troubles with. So now the ones that I have to replace are all in open spots so I'll be able to get them in no problem. So I'll give it another shot tomorrow night after I get home and get the materials I need, then re carpet the inside and I should be able to get it wired up and the wall put back in permanently. Well see how much time I have to work on it tomorrow night. 

I'm off to bed! Goodnight all!! 

BTW I do have pics, but they're not ready to post up yet. I'll get those and the rest of what I have to do up when I get a chance.


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## godfathr

scooter99 said:


> Ok well I started to install the subs tonight and ran into some issues. Easy fix issues but issues that kept me from getting the job done tonight. The screws I got are too small for one. They're too short by about 1/2". Easy fix, I'll get new longer ones. I started putting in the T-Nuts and I have one at the bottom of the sub on each one, that is really close to the angle of the wall, and I cannot get a clean shot at it with a hammer. So I tried to screw in the screws to sink it in, and lost three nuts in the process. So I need another pack of t-nuts, again an easy fix. The hardest part of the issues goes to the carpet. My inexperience shows on this one, because I should've put the subs in and drilled my holes before I carpeted the box. Well when I drilled them with the carpet alredy on, I managed to screw up the carpet and it pulled away from the box and got all screwed up. It's just the back side, or inside I guess you can call it, but I had to pull off most of it and will have to re carpet the inside when I get the last couple of nuts in.
> 
> Otherwise the holes are drilled, and what T-Nuts I was able to use are in, including the ones that I had troubles with. So now the ones that I have to replace are all in open spots so I'll be able to get them in no problem. So I'll give it another shot tomorrow night after I get home and get the materials I need, then re carpet the inside and I should be able to get it wired up and the wall put back in permanently. Well see how much time I have to work on it tomorrow night.
> 
> I'm off to bed! Goodnight all!!
> 
> BTW I do have pics, but they're not ready to post up yet. I'll get those and the rest of what I have to do up when I get a chance.


Try pinching the tee nuts with a pair of channel locks. It's easier than hammering them in or sinking them in with a bolt.
Good luck my friend!
GF


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## IBcivic

^^^ X2


----------



## scooter99

godfathr said:


> Try pinching the tee nuts with a pair of channel locks. It's easier than hammering them in or sinking them in with a bolt.
> Good luck my friend!
> GF


DOooohhhh! I don't know why I didn't think about that! That's a great idea, and probably wouldn't have cost me the three t-nuts! You know being a carpenter you'd think I'd know that. I'm so embarrassed! Thanks for the input!


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## scooter99

Ok here are some pics. Although I didn't get a pic of the screw ups! But I'll address that in the next session. 

The box ready to have subs installed.


The first sub ready for it's new home.


First sub in it's new home being drilled out. It's a perfect fit! 


Second Sub ready for it's new home! 


That's all I got. But I love the way both subs fit into the holes. They're a perfect fit and when I cut the beauty panel there'll definitly be enough room for excursion! Now I just have to fix the problems!!!


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## IBcivic

by this time ....i was expecting to see your woofers eaten up by moths:laugh:oke:

nice to see those woofers going in ,scoot


----------



## scooter99

Thanks! I had a net around them that was powered to act as a bug zapper!!! J/K! 

Well things are about to get interesting. This is gonna be a long explination but bare with me. 

My dad died 2 years ago christmas day! He saw my daughters for the first time that year when my wife surprised me by flying him from Texas for my birthday. That was the last time he saw them and me as well. My step mom, his wife, has never met them. I've sent tons of pictures and stuff like that and even though she's had those things, it's not the same. She has two daughters, both grown, and one is in the Navy. She recently got stationed in San Diego. My step mom, my other step sister and her husband and two kids, are all flying to San Diego to spend Christmas with my other stepsister. Following along? They're all practically begging me to meet them there for a couple days. San Diego is a minimum 9 hour drive from me. My wife now can't get off work, and the only time to go really is before christmas, cause I just can't do it around Christmas. So I'm trying to plan to drive down there cause flights are toooooo damn expensive. Don't have the money. Well I'm also not going to drive my truck down there cause with the money I'll end up spending on gas, I might as well fly. That leaves my car. 

My car, if you've been following this build, is in about 500 pieces on the side of my house!!!! So if this is going to jump off, which if it is I want my car if for nothing else than the great gas mileage, the freaking DVD player and head rest screens. 9 hours in a car for a 5 year old and a 3 year old with no movies will not only kill me, it'll kill them too!!! So that's a must. 

So needless to say, just on the posibility that this is gonna happen, I'm kicking this build into hyper drive! I'll be working on it every night between now and the weekend of the 19th. I'm hoping that I can get it done sometime before that and I can get someone to help me tune it up, I've had offers so I just need to make some contacts. Then I'll be ready for the long road ahead!!! 

So there's my little update! Gonna get the subs in tonight, wired and ready for the amp rack build! Seal up the rest of the trunk, that I need to still do. Then move on from there! 

Whew we'll see what happens!!!! Gonna rush and at the same time take my time and do it right. I have 3 weeks to get this done and I truely think that should be enough time to get the legistics done and worry about some of the cosmetics later, if need be!


----------



## n_olympios

Hehe, just remember to get some good sleep before going on the road trip.  

Good luck!


----------



## scooter99

Yeah Thanks!!! Hopefully if things go well, and I'm planning them now as we speak, I'll get to nap on that sunday before I leave, and it'll just be a relaxing day! Thanks for the positive words though. I appreciate that!


----------



## scooter99

Ok little update! My audison gear, db's, battery terminals, etc, are on their way! Bad news about that is they're not scheduled to be delivered unitl 1/12/10.  Oh well I got them for a good price! 

So now this creates a new delimma for the SanDiego trip, possibly. Now I have no distro blocks etc to power the system I have to have done for the trip. I have some stuff left over from the sales, if they don't sell, and I have to battery terminals addressed for now, but I'm gonna have to get creative with it. I still don't know how big the Audison Combination Distro block is, so I can do my install and have it all ready. So this presents some issues but I think they're addressable issues. 

I'll be working on the car tonight. I'll get pics up tomorrow if I get time!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so I went back and re read the email. I used Google Translate, great thing by the way, and I miss read it. They switch days and months. So It shipped today, and they're saying that if it's not been recieved after 5 business days from the shipping date, then I can contact them. So I think it should be here in about a week. That makes things way less stressful!


----------



## n_olympios

Where are they being shipped from? Italy?


----------



## scooter99

Germany.


----------



## n_olympios

How come?


----------



## kyheng

Is it January or October? Anyway to prevent any misunderstandings, is good to put month not in numbers.


----------



## scooter99

I hear ya. As far as I can see it's going to be in a week or two.


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## IBcivic

i wish there was a world standard on the way dates are written....dang...5 day delivery from europe=great deal for $40 ..


----------



## IBcivic

hey kyheng....any place you recommend going to.....i'll be sneaking in from singapura for the day[friday] before i head back home. cheers


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## scooter99

Ok so just a little update, I've got nothing!! I've been working 14 hour days all week and my weekend was shot and this weekend is crazy. Trying to pay for christmas and it's not even here yet!!! But, I am going to get on it somehow this weekend! I have to or my trip is shot as well! Gonna start. 

I added another little feature, I know I know couldn't help myself! I bought a couple of sun visor monitors! I'm going to re wrap them in suede when I get em, but this way I can set up my dvd's for the girls, and if I have passengers like on this long trip, they can watch as well. Anyway, it wasn't that costly so I thought I'd go for it. Not that I need to add anything else to this project, but whatever!!! 

Ok I'm leaving work now at 12:20 am pst, so I can go get some sleep before my crazy weekend gets underway!! Last two days of extended work are monday and tuesday. Then we're back on regular schedule! Which means more time to work on the car!!! WOOTWOO!!


----------



## kyheng

stinky06 : I'm in Malaysia.... But when you at Singapore, can always stop by and try the Chinese foods or foods from the East. If you intended to buy something like audio equipments, forget about it. I also buying from US. But Pioneer P99RS maybe you can consider.... It is selling like a hot cake now.

Scooter99 : Sorry for hijacking your thread.


----------



## scooter99

NO worries! 

I think I made a wise decision to not go to San Diego. I'm burning the candle at both ends right now and I just don't think that's 20 hours in my life, driving there and back, I want to spend or can afford to spend. So I'm going to not go down there and just be here with my family. I'm still gonna get my car worked on and get it done, just won't be in as high a gear as I originally planned for that trip. 

Anyway, I'm going to work on it tonight and tomorrow night I think. I'm gonna have to see what happens throughout the day. 

I am, however, going to pick up my Pioneer XDV-P6 today. WOOTWOOT!!! I'll get pics when I get it home!!!


----------



## kyheng

^Good to know your new gear comes... But how will you connect it. Pioneer's optical out is 4 pin while Audison's is standard optical...


----------



## IBcivic

good deal scoot!! glad one of us is getting something done....

i was called back to shenyang china...the spare parts arrived faster than i could get out of the region...lol 
went from tropical[singapor/malaysia] to polar weather 
i should get to stay home for a while ,soon....hopefully i can jump-start my build thread,by then.


----------



## scooter99

Kyheng: I'm not sure on that yet. I may not hook up the optical. It's not really worth it since I can't hear the music out of it. The P800PRS doesn't have optical ability. So it's not really worth it to have it on the kids movies. They don't care what it sounds like. 

Stinky06: I was going to work on my lights today, but speaking of polar weather, IT"S F-ING FREEZING OUTSIDE!!! So i'm gonna pull my car in the garage, utilize the space heater and do some work on it! I'm also gonna switch out the dvd players and take pics of the difference. 

STILL need someone to buy that other dvd player!!! 

Anyway, I have less pressure now, since I'm not going to San Diego now. BTW, big props and thanks to Vince for the dvd player! You are a great guy and I'm lovin your work. Thanks for all your help!

I was also talking to him about the headrest screens, Pioneer AVD-W7900's, and I'm trying to figure out how to make them turn on and off from the front of the car vs. having to turn around to press the button to turn them on. Anyone out there have any other suggestions or experience with these screens? Would a switch up front running in the ignition line work? These are things I have to figure out. Any help is appreciated! 

Off to go do some work!!


----------



## scooter99

ok so here's pictures of the new unit. First let me say, NIGHT AND FREAKING DAY! I love the way this thing looks. Now I have to decide if I want to have it on the top, the way it sits, or on the bottom, and flip flop the two. Opinions are welcome please. 

Secondly I was thinking about this. I could run the system optical off dvd and cd, cause this is a multi cd and dvd changer. If I could figure out the damn 4 pin optical cable and how to run the other end to a standard toslink, I'd have it made. Cause when I'm showing it, and people wanna hear they're cd's or mine, I can play them through the p6 and they'll run digitally. Everything else will be standard, ipod, sirius, radio, etc. I think that's the way to go. I just need to figure out how to get a cable. 

Here are the pics. 

Old and new boxes.


New






Again, old.




And new!


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## scooter99

and the side by side view. I like this one much better. 





Ok, that's it for now. More later!


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## scooter99

Ok so I googled optical cables to find out what I can do. I've found these so far. 

Monster Cable THX V100 SVO-8 Standard S-Video/Fiber Optic Cable - 126054-00 - Buy.com

http://www.keenzo.com/showproduct.asp?M=BELKIN_AV22100-03&ID=703426

it looks like they're all s video cables though and those won't work. Hmmm. I'll keep searching.


----------



## IBcivic

sweeeeeeeeeet


----------



## scooter99

So I did manage to find an alpine optical cable, where the hell was that when I had the 505? Does anyone know if the 4 pin connector on that is the same as the pioneer? If so I'm just gonna bite the bullet and buy one. I think I'll be good with my plans I mentioned before.


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## kyheng

I guess you no need that optical cable anymore..... As I can't see there's any optical output from XDV-P6? Just try confirm that first.


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## scooter99

There is actually cause I was wondering the same thing. It's on the unit not the brain and it's on the top of it. If you look at the instructions for it, I'll link that, it's on the top of the unit and in the back. It's in a weird position cause it actually is facing up, not to the back. So you would almost be forced to have an angled connector or it would cause problems if you had space issues. 

Here's the link. Remember look on the unit not the brain. It's the little circle with 4 pin holes in it. 

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/vgn/images/portal/cit_11221/310145717XDVP6InstallationManual.pdf

I think I'm going to write an email to Pioneer and see what they have to offer about the optical cable.


----------



## kyheng

Yes, you are right, just notice that fellow on the unit, not the brain. Was looking at the brain all the time. But the problem is, Pioneer never state clearly what it can do(connecting to DEQ-8000) which I think is not right.
I flipped thru before on the Bit1's manual, in order to get DTS, Dolby signal you need to connect all the 5 channels input. Just the digital input(coaxial or optical) won't give you such functions.

For me, what is the best on the signal chain still getting digital output from HU till Bit1 and let Bit1 do all the DAC jobs(less lost). For your setup, I see the best is get the 4-pin to toslink optical and let P800 to control the changer(as the main CD/DVD playbacks).


----------



## IBcivic

ugh...can't load pdf's..... geez everything in china is cuntrolled ...even youtube is banned!


kyheng>chinese food?.....i prefer malay food,my friend


----------



## IBcivic

scott did you re-paint your dash pieces or is it the lighting?


----------



## scooter99

The 800prs doesn't have optical. Only the p6. What do you mean by running the optical and have the 800prs run it etc? Not understanding. Stinky06 - I haven't painted it yet. I'm gonna soon though. I swear I'm not just saying that!!


----------



## herman_x

greattttt


----------



## IBcivic

ok..thought you painted it....it must be the lighting ,then


----------



## kyheng

scooter99 : What I meant was, P800(as master) control the P6(as slave) to play everything, your CD, DVD. Another meaning is using your P6 as the digital transport to Bit1. Not P800 analog output to Bit1. But you can always try to run digital input or analog input to Bit1 and see which is more superior.
BTW, hows the Pioneer tech support's reply?

stinky06 : I hate Malay foods sometimes, due oil and coconut milk they used.


----------



## scooter99

Yeah that's what I was thinking of doing. I think I'm going to run the optical from the P6 to the Bit 1 for the dvd, cd and then analog from the 800prs for everything else. 

I haven't heard from pioneer yet. They usually take a couple days to get back to me. I have a lead on a panasonic optical cable as well, I'm going to test that out and see where it lands me.


----------



## IBcivic

the kids[dvd player] get the optical ...ey?....you're spoiling em, man!!


----------



## scooter99

I always spoil my kids. But the thought behind it was that I can play my cd's too in digital format vs analog. If I can't do it for that then I won't do it. I'll stick to the analog.


----------



## kyheng

Well, Bit1 got few inputs, why worry?
But P800 must be on standard mode in order for you to have full range signals.


----------



## scooter99

Sorry, I'm not sure I understand what you're saying. Can you explain a little?


----------



## kyheng

P800 got 2 modes, Network Mode(H, M, L) or Standard Mode(F, R, S). If you are feeding Bit1 from P800, under Netwrok Mode, if you use M's output, the frequenciy range is 50-10000Hz(20-50 and 10k till 20k missing), so is bad for sound reproductions.


----------



## scooter99

Are you thinking, and anyone can input on this if they want, that I need to run a line from the 800 to the bit one for each of the front rear and sub outputs? That's three total runs from the head unit to the bit one, then an optical run from the dvd player to the bit one optical. Does that sound right or am I ok with running a single rca from the 800 head unit?


----------



## scooter99

Ok so here's what I drew up on mS Paint on how I'm thinking of hooking the system up. Well the components anyway. I still have to find out if I can do this or not, but this is the thought. 

Kyheng is this what you had in mind? Or am I off no this thing? What are your thoughts?


----------



## IBcivic

is there a reason you are feeding the bit one with 6 ch of analog?...it only requires one pair of rca's [l&r] the unit does all the channel separation.

the rest is all too ''pioneer'' for me [never used the stuff] and for some reason ...pdf's[manuals] are hard to load here in china.


----------



## kyheng

The details you can check it out on your Bit1's manual, page 8. It can accept 6 channels under Stereo or 5.1 mode(kinda blur over here). But still, P800 have to bet set at Standard.


----------



## IBcivic

my question is why feed it front/rear/sub inputs...i feed mine a single pair L+R and the bit one takes it from there... my other inputs are free for other devices...my xtreamer media player for example. although...i think i will use the coaxial input to bypass the unit's internal dac's

if i am out to lunch on this one....it proves that i have been away from working on my car for too long[18 more hours and i'll be home]


----------



## IBcivic

scooter....whatabout your audison delivery????


----------



## kyheng

Relax man, he will put photos in and announce it when he got it. Don't worry about that.


----------



## scooter99

Ok lots of replies here. As far as the 3 sets of RCA's I thought that's what Kyheng was getting at when he was describing what I should be doing, which is why I was making the diagram to better understand and be on the same page. However if I don't need all three sets I'd be fine with that too since I'd need to make 2 more sets of long rca's to go from front to back. That means I'd need to order more gepco wire, and more rca ends. So if I don't need them I'll be better off since I have the one already made. So someone clarify this please. I really need to sit down and read that manual for sure. 

Secondly, I have not received the audison delievery yet, however I'm not as pressured now since I don't have to get my car done by christmas week. The only issue with not having that stuff yet is it's going to hold me up a little on the design of the trunk cause I never got an answer to the deminsions of that distribution block. But that's the only reason I feel any pressure to get it right now. I'm off today, but not to work on my car unfortunately, so i'll look at the email again and see if I can get a hold of someone at DLH and find out where it's at. It's been 9 days now since the order so I would guess it should be any time. And yes, I'll post pics when I get the stuff!!! 

So I'm home today because my daughter is sick again, well she has been for the last couple of days. It started monday morning about 5am when she started throwing up in her bed. But there was no consistancy too it. It was very odd. Well from 5 am till about 10 am she did it 13 times. We ended up in the hospital from 10 am till about 230 pm with an iv in her arm due to dehydration. Couldn't find any reason for her to be doing this and she didn't show signs of a flu or virus other than the throwing up. Never had a fever or anything like that. She went to daycare yesterday and woke up from her nap at 4pm with a small fever so daycare requires 24 hours of fever free before she can come back. So now I'm home with her today and she's acting normal, no fever, and no throwing up. So that's good, but I just wish we knew what it was. 

So the other thing I'm doing today is finishing my lights on my house! I'll post pictures of those when I'm done as well. I'm going to try and do some stuff to the car tonight, but we're supposed to get a christmas tree tonight, and it's been in the 20's at night so it's pretty cold! We'll see!


----------



## n_olympios

Since you won't be handling a multichannel signal through the BitOne, one stereo pair of RCA's will suffice. 

I hope the little one gets better soon.  It can be very frustrating, not knowing what it is and feeling unable to help.


----------



## scooter99

Ok then that's what i'll stick with. 

yea it's definitly frustrating not knowing what happened or what's wrong with your child. We'll have to see what the day hold for us. Thanks for the positive words.


----------



## scooter99

Hey stink? or anyone else that can answer this, is there any difference between the scosche and metra dash kit? I'm thinking I may need a new one because 3 of the 4 screw holes that hold the head unit brackets in, are cracked and striped. So I was thinking I might just order another one unless I can fix it, but I don't know if theres a difference between the two. I have the Scosche now, and was thinking of getting the metra. Thoughts?


----------



## godfathr

scooter99 said:


> Hey stink? or anyone else that can answer this, is there any difference between the scosche and metra dash kit? I'm thinking I may need a new one because 3 of the 4 screw holes that hold the head unit brackets in, are cracked and striped. So I was thinking I might just order another one unless I can fix it, but I don't know if theres a difference between the two. I have the Scosche now, and was thinking of getting the metra. Thoughts?


Great to hear your daughter is feelin fine. I know how powerless you feel when you child is sick or in pain and there is nothing you can do to take it away. The feeling just pokes at your heart with a dull stick.
We use the metra kits and the fit and finish is nice. They also come painted to match the original dash color.
I might have one in stock, I'll check when I get to the store this morning. If not, I can have one by end of week when you come by.
No complaints on the metra kit though!
Vince


----------



## scooter99

Yea if you've got one in the taupe let me know. I'll come swoop it from you. I was going to paint the scosche kit cause it's a shade off from the other plastic piece on the dash but if you've got one and we can see how close the color match is, then I'll just do that rather than spend the time to paint etc. Then we can test that optical thing too. Let me know. Again thanks for the kind words.


----------



## scooter99

ok so here are the two layouts i'm looking at for now. 

Option 1


Option 2


Sorry, edit, the piece with the blue tape around it is my mock up, even though I have no idea what size it is, of the distribution block. 

I also just got off the phone with Pioneer. They're saying, and we all know why they're saying it, that pioneer's 4 pin optical cable is only specific to the pioneer units and the only cable they have is the one that has the 4pin connector on both sides. So I'm still going to explore, with Vince, if this will work with the Panasonic cable or not. 

He also said that the outputs on the xdv-p6 hide away and unit itself are active at all times. So even if i have the Ip-Bus hooked up to the P800PRS the other outputs are still active. So I can send a signal to the headrest monitors for when and if I decide to get the headphones. 

Speaking of the headrest monitors, he also said that they turn on when the car is on due to the ignition wire. It has a yellow power wire, red ignition wire, and black ground. So the yellow goes to the constant power, red to ignition source. And when I have the monitors turned on with the power button on the monitor itself, when the car is turned off the turn off, then turn on again when the car is turned on. So I'm going to put a switch in that ignition line, that will turn off the monitors when I want them off and the car is on. That way I have control of them from the front. 

Good day of information so far. 

I'm off to the store!!


----------



## kyheng

Well, that 4-pin to optical cable is not that cheap basicly, cost about $100 on Fleabay as Alpine's W502 optical(I forgot the model). And the Pioneer's tech support answer is not that conviencing for my next step on upgrading my system. Maybe can consider to loan such cable and test it out. Else it will be a waste if it is really for Pioneer units only. 

And regarding your daugther's sickness, is it diarrhea? If yes next time can give her some medic charcoal and oats. It should able to help within few hours time. This is how I treat my self when I had my diarrhea


----------



## blackedout

Option 1.... Rcas remain further apart from the power wire in option one... Just less of a chance for noise.


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## IBcivic

if i was to buy a new piece...it would be the oem honda. i had the metra[the one i melted,last spring...lol] and it is relatively well made[i just dont like how the filler trim fits/looks.

FYI>non...not even the oem is a perfect match..beleive it or not!!!


----------



## IBcivic

how'z the youngling feeling?


----------



## scooter99

She's much better! Thanks!


----------



## scooter99

OH **** I DIDN'T EVEN NOTICE UNTIL NOW THAT I ECLIPSED MY 1000 POST MARK!! WOOTWOOT!


----------



## scooter99

Ok well right after I wrote that last post, my daughter threw up in her bed, and my wife is now sick this morning!! AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!


----------



## scooter99

BTW, I got my anti fatigue floor mats yesterday from Harbor Freight. I'm going to use these in my front doors and on the floor of the cab over the deadener. It's way cheaper than closed cell foam. I saw it on here where it was being used. Anyway, that's the latest. I have to get going on this thing. I'm tired of the truck sucking the money out of my account for gas! It's crazy!!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so here's the diagrams, on mspaint of coarse, that i'm looking to do on the back wall. I'm kind of going with the idea themes of Simplicityinsound, and I hope he doesn't mind, but I'm going to do the plexi with the leds! I think it's an awesome look and with the blue on the audison gear with some blue leds I think it's gonna look stellar. 

Hopefully you can understand these diagrams but if not stay tuned and I'll make it a reality for you. It's going to be raining quite a bit here in the next week or so but I'm going to get to cutting and moving on this stuff. I've got it in my head and I'm ready to get it done! Gotta get moving!!!


----------



## blackedout

Looks good bro. I sandwiched two pieces of MDF together and bolted the whole setup to the metal seat frame as well. I picked up some 1.5'' AC foam from Ace hardware and sandwiched that between the board to create a tighter seal.









Infinite baffle of course.

The car:


----------



## scooter99

Looks good. The only issue I have is that I want the motors facing the cab.


----------



## IBcivic

blackedout said:


> Looks good bro. I sandwiched two pieces of MDF together and bolted the whole setup to the metal seat frame as well. I picked up some 1.5'' AC foam from Ace hardware and sandwiched that between the board to create a tighter seal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Infinite baffle of course.
> 
> The car:


very nice...any inside of the trunk pics?


----------



## blackedout

stinky06 said:


> very nice...any inside of the trunk pics?


I'm in college and the cars back at home, I'll be going back on the 18th. I'll post some pics then. Finished with this setup two weeks ago, got a couple days to play with it then I had to run back up to college before winter break. Can't wait to hear it again LOL.


----------



## scooter99

I like the rims too! It's a nice looking set up!


----------



## scooter99

GOT MY SUNVISOR MONITORS TODAY!!! WOOTWOOT!! Gonna have to look at them a little closer and see how I'm going to be able to cover them. I think, and again I have look closer, but the tards put the screws on the bottom part of the monitors. The part that shows when the monitor is up. So that would cause a problem to cover them and then be able to put them back together. So we're gonna have to see what happens there. I have the thought of spraying them the same color as the radio bezzle and the dash piece. I'll have to look closer when I get home and have time. I'll post pictures later!! 

STILL WAITING ON THE GOD DAMN AUDISON STUFF!!! I EMAILED THEM YESTERDAY TO SEE WHAT WAS GOING ON OR IF THEY COULD GIVE ME ANY INFORMATION AND I HAVE NOT HEARD BACK FROM THEM YET!! THE LAST PIECE OF THE PUZZLE ALWAYS SEEMS TO BE THE MOST IMPORTANT PIECE DOESN'T IT!!!!!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so here are the pics of the new "kids". I've already taken one apart to look and see what the possibility is of covering them, and it's not looking good. The issue is the damn screws on the underside of the unit. Why they did that I have no idea! Anyway, I'm going to see what happens when I put the tiny screwdriver through the grill cloth. That's most likely what I'm going to be using. It's thin and should be easy to go through. The other option is to just paint it, which I can take everything off the units to do. Strip it down basically and paint the covers. The problem with that is that the underside is not very attractive. I'm going to work on some options now. 

The pics!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so I decided to check out the painting process. I striped everything down and got it ready. 


Then I added the primer to all the pieces. 


While I waited for the primer to dry, I started to change or flip flop the head unit and the dvd player. I can't decide which way looks better. Although I may need to wait and make a final decision when the bezzle is done. Here are some pics of the units.

This is how it was 



This is flip flopped.



Then I went back out to check the trims. They're dry. So I put on the first coat of paint.


I noticed this problem. NOT HAPPY ABOUT THIS!!! On visors it came out great! No problems at all! On the trims, big time problems. Here's what it looks like. 



Like I said it's not like this on the visors, as a matter of fact the visors are perfect as far as I'm concerned. I'm going to wait until tomorrow and then I'm going to put them back together and they'll be ready to install. 

I put a second coat on the trims, thinking that maybe it would hide the issues, and while it did a little bit, it looks terrible and I need to figure out what I'm going to do about it. It's almost like it didn't like the primer. Or it could be that it's just too cold. It is 43degrees outside right now and I did it in the garage. But I'll have to wait for it to dry completely and then I'll do some sanding and see where I'm at. I may be buying a new dash piece and a new head unit bezzle. But we'll see. 

So that's all for now. I'm going to try to work on getting some deadener in later. I got my wire diagrams done and I'm about ready to start all that. I figured I can start doing the little stuff in the cab and maybe get that thing ready to be driven again. I'm tired of driving the truck!! 

Still waiting on the Audison Connection Gear!!! No word from the shippers yet!

Anyone with suggestions on what's going on above, I'd be glad to hear it! Also would like to hear opinions on the head unit and dvd player set up. Which way looks better? Thanks!


----------



## kyheng

I will just put the changer below and HU on top. Reason is looks more neat as the changer have 7 buttons below. It will just looks like a double din and for easy access.


----------



## 99IntegraGS

scooter99 said:


> While I waited for the primer to dry, I started to change or flip flop the head unit and the dvd player. I can't decide which way looks better. Although I may need to wait and make a final decision when the bezzle is done. Here are some pics of the units.
> 
> This is how it was
> 
> 
> This is flip flopped.


I like the changer on top better.



Code:


[INDENT]Pioneer                             Premier
Premier   ...looks better than...   Pioneer[/INDENT]

IMHO... 



JD


----------



## IBcivic

scoot..looks like you have ''fish eye''....most probably caused by residual silicone from the dressing previously used to shine up your interior. they do have special prep cleaners for removing the left-over traces.

sometimes you can get lucky[i did] and wet sand the defects away and carefully re-spray the affected area.


----------



## scooter99

So I need to strip it down and do it over again?


----------



## scooter99

Here's the newest diagram which I made some alterations from the one before. I took out the rear and sub rca's from the head unit, since I'm only using one set from there. I also changed up the sequence of Ip-Bus connections. I originally had everything comming to the dvd changer then to the head unit, and everything that I've read on all the manuals has the dvd changer last. At least that's what I'm seing. So I changed it so it's the last one in line through everything else and then to the head unit. 

I've also made all my wire diagrams for the install and I could post those up but I won't bore you with those.


----------



## IBcivic

scooter99 said:


> So I need to strip it down and do it over again?


 no...let it dry thoroughly and start wet sanding it with 320 grit paper[wet] 'till you smooth out the surfaces. and try re-spraying .. don't sand all the way through the paint if possible. wet sanding can be done under a faucet with the water running lightly. the water prevents the paper from loading and helps remove the residue that is captured in the paint.


----------



## scooter99

Ok I'll give that a shot! I'm gonna see what the visors look like right now and see if they can be put back together or not. They should be dry by now!


----------



## kyheng

BTW, there's 1 thing you need to consider, 1 Pioneer HU can support max of 2 IPBUS equipment at 1 time. Maybe you have to rewire them? Like P800 controls P6 and CD-IB100II and P6 controls the other 2?


----------



## scooter99

Well the other thing I can do is just eliminate the bluetooth unit, I'm not sold on that either. I've used it before and wasn't thrilled with it. I just had it so I was gonna put it in. But I don't have to. I can take and use the Ipod on the Aux 2 on the Bit One and just run it from there. I don't have to run it off the head unit. Then that leaves the XDV-P6 and the Sirius player on the head unit. 

How could I run the other things on the xdv-p6? I'm not sure I follow that. Or would I just be running the ip-bus through it but still controlling it by the head unit? I'm confused!!


----------



## kyheng

Well, not you only, I also the same. On the P800 manual it states 2 external units but P6 never says anything.


----------



## scooter99

Ok well I just emailed Pioneer again. They're gonna get to know me well by the time I'm done with this thing. I'll confirm it all from them and get back to you on the best way to do it all. 

My other option, like I said, is to eliminate the Bluetooth module, and then Pioneer has an Ipod connector to RCA's in which I can just go to the Bit One's Auxilary 2 port. That would then make me operate the Ipod from itself but if I'm limited with options then so be it! That would leave the XDV-P6, and the Sirius unit to be operated by the head unit. 

I'll get back to you!


----------



## kyheng

Thanks. You are my man.... My local Pioneer was gone deaf ear on my queries, basicly. My question was does P6's digital output can input to DEX-P9's digital Input.
But since you got everything, maybe you can try what I mentioned earlier? Sometimes just waiting for them is kinda ignoring.


----------



## scooter99

I'll post up what I find out when I get the info!!!


----------



## IBcivic

kyheng said:


> Thanks. You are my man....


 is this a proposal??? :laugh::laugh::laugh:



















kidding....


----------



## scooter99

Ok I finished the visor monitors. I still have to do the brackets but I just primed them. I won't waste time with the pictures. Not much to see. Here are the final pictures of the visors.

Painted empty frames


Parts


And back together!








Before and after if you don't remember what they looked like originally.


I'm happy with the overall results. I would still prefer, after looking at them, to cover them with something but I'm just not sure that is possible considering how they're put together. I may just bite the bullet and take them to the guy down the road from me who owns an upholstery shop and see what he can do with them if anything.


----------



## IBcivic

like em better in black oke:

kidding....turned out looking great ...any luck with the dash parts?

one question>how is your lady going to manage w/o the vanity mirror?


----------



## scooter99

She's never in my car so it doesn't matter. Plus she's not that kinda lady. She primps in the bathroom in the morning and that's about it. She's not one that checks on herself all day long etc. 

I had a birthday party to take my girls to in the morning, put the visors together in the afternoon while they slept, and then a christmas party in the evening. Haven't had time to do them yet. I'll go get the sand paper today and I'll do them soon, maybe tonight. I have an event I'm taking my girls to today at 3pm too. Busy weekend!!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so here's what's going on right now. The visors are ready to go in. Got the brackets painted. I didn't get the trims sanded but here's what I'm lookin at. The trims that I just painted are not even close to the rest of the trims that are surroundig it. So I'm pretty bummed about that. I think I can get away with the visors cause of how far away they are, but I'm not happy with the color at all. I've purchased a new dash trim and a new metra kit. I'm just going to use those when I get them in and try not to think about it, if they're a little off. 

Here's this weeks issue. I have a christmas party my wife and I are hosting on saturday. There's a ton of stuff to do to get ready so there will be no time to get the car worked on this week. 

Next week is Christmas. So my plan is that after christmas I'm going to dedicate every night on the car and every weekend I have to get it done! I'm tired of it sitting around and right now we have no plans on the weekends following christmas. So I'm going to take that time to get it done. I'm going to step back this week and next and focus on getting through christmas and then I'm going to hit it hard! 

Also I'm still waiting on a few things to come in that I need for the build. So in a couple weeks it should all have come in and I can just start building and not have to worry about waiting for something I need to come in. 

I know this build is taking forever and it seems like everytime it tries to get off the ground something changes and the build changes. I assure you nothing is changing. I'm happy with the equipment that I have going in right now, I just need time to do it and these next two weeks are not that time! So bare with me, I promise progress after christmas! 

Until then if anyone has any comments etc, you're all welcome to leave them. I think, however I'm going to take a break from here and, like I said, get through the next two weeks! Thanks for everyones understanding and support! 

MERRY CHRISTMAS TO EVERYONE!!!


----------



## scooter99

As another note to add to this whole thing. I've not yet heard back from Pioneer about my email i sent, which I dont' expect to for a bit, but here's what I'm thinking. 

I'm going to eliminate the Bluetooth module all together. I just don't see me using it that much and when I do, I have an ear piece, and besides that like I said before I wasn't that impressed with it. No big deal. 

I'm going to run the Ipod unit and the Sirius unit off the head unit via the Ip-Bus. 

I'll run the XDV-P6 in stand alone mode to Aux 1 on the Bit One. I still have to check it out, but if it's going to work with the Panasonic cable, I'll run the Optical from that to the Bit One. That gives me the option of playing dvd's in optical as well as playing cd's optical. The rest will be played analog. 

Again I haven't heard back from Pioneer yet, but this would fall within the 2 unit Ip-Bus thing and then would also allow the optical to be used. I have the sun visor monitors so I can just use those for the dvd set up etc, and use the remote for the XDV-P6 to control it. Then I'll control everything else, volume etc, off the DRC from the Bit One. These are just thought's running through my head. What do ya'll think?


----------



## bsully1850

I like the product list. I'll be watching this one.


----------



## scooter99

I don't know if I ever posted the final final list. I'm done buying equipment for sure for sure, with exception of some install stuff. Here's the final list.

Head unit: Pioneer Premier DEH-P800PRS 
DVD In-Dash Unit: Pioneer XDV-P6 
Steering Wheel Interface: PAC-SWIPS
Sirius Unit: Pioneer SIR-PNR2 
Ipod Control: CD-IB100II
Monitors: Pioneer AVD-W7900
Visor Monitors: Pyle Plvsmr7 7'' Tft Left And Right Side 
Video Amplifier: PAC VA26
Processor: Audison Bit One 
Amplifiers: Audison LRx 6.9, Audison LRx 4.1K
Speakers: Mid Bass - Hertz Mille 165's 
Mid Range - Hertz High Energy HL70's
Tweeters - Hertz High Energy HT25's 
Rear Fill - Hertz Deici DCX100's
Subwoofers: Acoustic Elegance IB15's
Power: Kinetic HC1800 Power Cell
Accessories: Auidson Connection BBC 11P DGT Post Termainal
Audison Connection SBC 41N Neg. Terminal
Audison Connection SFD 41C Combination Distribution Block
Audison Connection BFD 21 Dual Distribution Block
Wires: Tsunami and KnuKonceptz
RCA's: Gepco and Canare Star Quad
RCA ends: Neutrik NYS352

If I come up with the scratch the only thing I may change on the install is going with all gepco wire and then, where the money comes in, going with the new Audison Connection BCP 100 rca ends if I can find them of course! 

But that's the final list. The only other thing that would be added to the list would be the Panasonic Optical Cable. Still have to find out if that's going to work with the dvd player though.


----------



## scooter99

Ok so I just received a confirmation email from the tech folks at Pioneer saying that I can run all stuff off the ip-bus to the 800prs. I'm going XDV-P6 to the CD-BTB200 to the CD-IB100II to the SIR-PNR2 then into the DEH-P800PRS. I still may take out the BTB200 bluetooth module. But that's what i asked them and they said I should be fine with that. Just FYI.


----------



## scooter99

So for those of you who are waiting for an update, here's what I've got for you. I recently said that I was holding off on the build until after christmas, and I still am, however i've worked on another project since then. It doesn't have to do with car audio but it's what I love to do. Especially now!! Here are the pics!!













So on to the auido stuff. Couple little updates. I'm waiting for stuff to trickle in from shipping. I spoke with Vince about the optical cable and we're gonna get that handled, hopefully, this weekend so I can get through that issue and decide if I'm going to be able to go that route. 

Audison update! I've emailed the place I bought the stuff from a couple times and each time they're telling me that it's been shipped out, it's left their country and is in the US somewhere. They can't track it cause it's not DHL or whatever, but it'll be delivered by usps and it'll be delivered sometime this week or beginning of next. GRRRRRR!!!  

Next update. While I was doing my house project above, I had things spread out and I had to get to something that was under the box that had all my wires that I had alredy made for the other build. All the harnesses and the RCA's etc. That box was set on the drive way outside of the garage but the garage door was open. Well i went inside for lunch, and came back out a little bit later and the box as well as another box with some light stuff inside it was gone!! Didn't see anyone come by or anything, and where our kitchen was, where I was eating, is right next to the garage so i can see everything except the other side of the garage where the box was. So I don't know, I'm just feakin pissed about it!!!  So to that I just ordered a couple hundred feet of Gepco Wire, Gepco RG59 video cable, and new Neutrik RCA ends to now rebuild my RCA's!! F-ERS!!!!!! 

I just got my alarm leds, and my Metra kit while I was writting this, as an added note. 

So things are things and I'm going to do some serious organizing of my garage to make sure something like what just happened doesn't happen to anything even more important. Actually considering the amount of audio equipment that's in my garage right now, I'm pretty lucky all they got was a box of lights and wires. 

I'll update more as things happen!

Happy Holidays to all!!


----------



## IBcivic

nice job on the house. i bet your kids are all excited about it!!!

jeez....no f'n respect!!! sad world we live in. i'm sorry scott , but i have a thing about theives..they just get under my skin....like i always said....the saudies have got that part right...you steal,you lose[your hand].


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## scooter99

Yes my kids are extatic! they love it! 

I hear ya, and I feel the same way! I also believe in carma and I know that there's nothing I can do about it now, other than learn from it and move forward. Like I said, i'm just glad it was that and not something else, say...........LRx 6.9 or 4.1k? Something like that!!! 

I'm upset about it yes, but I'm getting past it! Just means more work. I'll deal with it. I'll also eye everyone who comes near my house and question anyone who's looking or staring at my house, which is gonna be pretty hard considering the way it looks now. But i'm going to put everything away in a spot that's not so accessable and slap my own hand for it. 

Thanks for the positive thoughts though. How's things with the build going? Anything new?


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## IBcivic

its day 1 of my 2.5 week holiday..went to the dentist ...now i am pain free,finally. 
on another note...it's friggin -15 C outside . i have to see if i can find a warm place to work in...maybe the shop,next week...

hey theives tend to be rude ....i'd bring in all my major componenents into the house just so i would not have to deal with losing big ticket items....


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## scooter99

Man 2.5 weeks! I'm jealous! I did however get the go ahead from my wife to book the first three weekends in a row for the build! Woohoo! As far as the components, that's a great idea. I'll clean out my daughters closet tomorrow and bring em in. I'm sure the cold doesn't help em either!


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## scooter99

So I made a startling discovery today!! I think everyone know's or I thought I said that my car was on the side of the house, which is where I park it normally, behind my fence and a locked gate. My garage isn't big enough to park both mine and my wifes car in there. Anyway, I had a make shift cover for the car for the last year ish, and this summer it got so beaten up that when the wind started picking up in fall the thing was just shredding everywhere. Well I took that down and there's been nothing covering my car for a while. Well it's been there untouched for the last couple of weeks, and I was looking for a spare set of keys today, so I got into the car. Remember there's nothing in the car. No floor carpet, not trims, no seats, except the driver seat, nothing. So I open the door and there's a pool of water in one of the channels on the driver side. Because the car was tilted to the back, there was a 1" deep pool of water resting at the back seat ledge.  I didn't take any pictures because I was in too much a state of panic to think about that. I grabbed a couple big towels and soaked up all the water and dried it out. 

I ran down and got a tarp from a local hardware store so it's coverd now unitl I can build a more permanent structure this summer. 

I have to now track down why there was water inside my car before I can build anything on top of it. I looked a little bit and it appears that it was comming from the door seal somehow. Not sure if the door was just not shut all the way or what, but I've got some work to do to locate this problem. I don't want to build on it and then have to tear out because I didn't fix the problem. 

Also, I moved all my components into the house. I had nowhere to put them really so I cleaned out my daughters closet and put them up on the shelf out of the reach of little hands. So they're in the house safe and warm now. The only thing I can't really get in the house, right now, is my boxes of subs. They're just too big. So I'm going to go buy a latch that I can lock for a cabinet in the garage I know they'll fit in. 

Lastly I'm starting to get pretty irritated with the fact that my Audison Connnection gear is not in yet! It's been damn near 3 weeks now since the order and I cannot believe it's not here yet!!  I've bought a host of other things for this build, including my tv screens which came from overseas somewhere and those arrived in less than a week WTF!!!! WHERE IS THIS STUFF AT!!! I wasn't worried that this stuff would hold up the build, but I'm officially starting this weekend after christmas and if they don't come this week I'm going to have to wait until they get here to continue on! This is so irritating!!

Ok I'm gonna go do some investigating to see why water is entering my car!!


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## IBcivic

dang....sunroof leak?
good thing you caught it while your car is in pieces.

don't forget mail is extremely slow during the x-mas season.


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## scooter99

I don't think its a sunroof leak. I looked around and that seal seemed to be dry, but the one on the driver door seemed to have some water under the seal and on the ledge there below the seal. So I'm thinking that something is up with the seal or I didn't shut the door all the way. I'm not sure. I'm gonna have to get out and do a water test on it, when it's not dark out. 

I forget that the mail and shipping is slow, but it shouldn't be that slow. Oh well, nothing I can do about it right now I guess.


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## IBcivic

it took a 1.5 weeks delivery, for my dad's x-mas gift from toronto.....normal lead time is 3 days.


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## scooter99

WOW!!!


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## scooter99

CHRISTMAS CAME A COUPLE DAYS EARLY FOR ME!!!! WOOTWOOT!!! epper:epper:epper:epper:epper:



OH YEAH BABY!!!


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## IBcivic

i told you so!!! that is some sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet gear!


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## scooter99

Ok ok I know, you were right! Yes it is some sweet gear! I can already imagine it in my car!!


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## scooter99

MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE!!! 

Tomorrow I start on my car again. It may take me a couple days to get pics up, but it's gonna start tomorrow. I have a checklist made for the audio, and as well I have some non audio stuff to do as well. I got a suspension kit, the HFP kit, for my car and some other stuff for christmas so I'm going to incorperate that as well. 

MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL DIY FAMILY!!!


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## kyheng

^Merry Chrismas to you too. I guess I' ve start mine also.


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## scooter99

Yeah buddy! Lets get em done! I'm actually taking the kids to see the new Alvin and the Chipmunks movie in the morning and then the afternoon and sunday are mine! Next weekend is mine, and the weekend after is mine. I'll get this thing done for sure soon!! I can't wait!!


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## scooter99

Ok so it's official. I just got back from taking the family to the new Alvin and the Chipmunks movie, KIDS LOVED IT, and we're home eating lunch and the kids are going down for a nap. Car has been moved to the warmer garage, and I'm going to change and this build is getting officialy under way..................again!! I'll have pics when I can get away to update, but be patient, they will come!! WOOHOO!!


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## scooter99

Ok so here it is. This is my "I added 100lbs of dead weight to my car" update. Well it may not be 100lbs, it's probably more like 40 or 45 ish. Anyway, just spent the last 5 hours deadening the cab of my car. Removed the deadening on the doors as well as striped them of the components and added to the insides of the doors. 

I used a spray deadener to go over the existing deadener I had in the insides of the doors already and it made a big difference. I only did the knock test from the outside but its way better after the spray went on. Anyway, I then knocked on my rear doors from the outside, with nothing inside of them, and I'm in the process of ordering some more spray!!! Wow what a difference. Sounds like knocking on the outside of a soda can!! 

Anyway, without further adoo, LOOK PEOPLE SOME PROGRESS!!!!!! I know we've all see deadener pictures before, and lets be honest, this is nothing great. I'm not the deadener king and I'm sure everyone is going to find flaws in my work, but its on, there's alot of it, and I can tell a difference just from bouncing around in the car installing it. So here are the pics!!! 

Fell free to comment!!


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## scooter99

Here's the cab again, striped.


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## scooter99

Ok and the deadener going in.



















So that's it for now. Tomorrow I'm going to work on sealing up the front doors, removing the rear door cards and sealing those up and deadening those, as well as putting a layer on the bottom of the rear deck. Once that's done I'm going to work on the wiring portion. I want to be able to get the wires ran and set before I finish up the rear IB wall. I don't want to have to try and get wires through a sealed wall. I'd much rather try to seal a wall around the wires. 

Comments welcome! 

As a separate update, I may be doing away with the Sirius Satellite radio. Reason is that they screwed me over today and it's almost too much for me to want to stay with. 

Story, so my wife and I took the kids to breakfast this morning. Went to pay the bill this morning and got declined for our debit card. It's the only card we have, and had no cash. We're like what the hell cause we knew we had money in there, at least enough to get by till payday. We get home after negotiating with the restaurant, since we go there weekly, to come back with the money a little bit later. Get home and check the computer and find out that Sirius radio took out 475.00 from our account. No letter, no email, no phone call saying hey your subscription payment is due, that's for 3 years by the way. So I called them and cancelled the account. But it's the fact that my family and I were embarrassed by the fact that they had no communication. Anyway, I posponed the account for now and I have until february to decide if I want to cancel it or not. I think I might though. I have the ipod and cds and I'm not sure if I want to pay that much for the sirius radio. Anyway, its taken care of now, I just have to wait a couple days to get the money in my account, of course!! 

Ok I'm done now. Going to bed!!


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## scooter99

Alright day two of progress. Today I pulled the rear door panels and deadened the doors. I redeadened the front doors and made a template to cut out a sheet of metal to cover the big hole in the center of the door. I also got the new speaker wires ran in the front doors through the boots, and ran wires for the new alarm lights in the front doors, as well as all the wires for the neon accent lighting in the door handels in all four doors. These lights will be powered by the same switch as the rest of the interior neon lighting. 

So I'm about done for today. I'm going to do some stuff inside tonight. But we'll see. It's sunday night and we have school and work tomorrow. So that may not happen. 

Onto the pics!!!

Rear Passenger Rear Door:




AND LET ME JUST PAUSE HERE FOR A LITTLE RANT!!! 

I WOULD LOVE TO GET A HOLD OF THE GUY OR GIRL WHO CREATED THE IDEA OF PUTTING THIS BLACK **** ON THESE DOORS BEHIND THE PLASTIC COVER. WHAT THE HELL IS THIS ****? IT'S LIKE TAR ONLY STICKIER!! WHAT A FREAKING TERRIBLE IDEA THAT WAS! I COULD GO ON BUT WHATEVER IT DONE NOW!

Inside of the door deadened.




Driver side rear door.




My Supervisor! DADDY what are you doing?






So both rear doors are deadened inside and out. Ready for the door panels to go back on. Just not ready for that part yet. Next I moved to the front doors to address those. 

I started by creating a template for the big gaping hole in the middle of these doors. I started by using just computer paper and taping it up so I could trace the palces to cut out. Then I used a piece of cardstock construction paper, the same as I used for the trunk to cut out the trunk floor template. Traced onto that and then cut out the template.


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## scooter99

Here is where I hit a tiny sang. I had a bunch of small pieces of aluminum from Home Depot that I was going to use for this. However I didn't have enough to do it, number one, and number two I would much rather do it all in one piece. So I'm going to have to go back to depot this week and get a full sheet of metal to cut the template out on. Then I'll deaden the back of it, screw it in, and deaden over it. That should be good. 

So with that not being able to be done, I decided there's no point in holding off on the rest of the door, so I deadened the rest of the door and got everything else done and ready for the cover. 





Next I decided to get some wireing done. I had to run a new set of lines for the new mid bass. Also I have a couple of things that are going in here. I decided I want to put in little 3mm or 5mm neon dots in the handle compartments of all four doors to accent the neons under the dash and under the seats. These won't be very bright but enough for just a little mood lighting so to speak. However I need to run wire for it. Also I decided I want to add an alarm light to the front two doors. These will be at the back of the door near the center pillar. Not the a pillar but the strike side of the door, so to speak. So I did those while the door was accessable. 

The speaker wire is pretty self explanitory. The red and black wires are for the alarm lights. The green and black wires are for the neon dots. The neon lights throughout the car will be ran with green wire instead of read as to not confuse them with the ignition wire in the blocks. 

Front Driver Door






Front Passenger Door


Rear Driver Door


Rear Passenger Door


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## scooter99

This is how the wire is passed through the rear doors. It's a boot much like the front doors. These are easier to get to and through though. 



So that's it for this week. I have next week, half of thursday, all of friday and the weekend to work on more. 

Next up on the adgenda is to finish the front doors. I have to do the covers in the metal sheets. I need to make new baffles for the mid bass drivers and install the mid bass drivers. 

Next I'll wire up the car. I have to build a panel under the passenger seat to house the components. These are the DVD player brain, sirius module (if I decide to keep it), Ipod module, Bluetooth Module, the Video Amplifier (for the headrest and visor monitors), as well as the block for these components. Also I need to wire up the front block. As well as wire up whatever needs to be wired up. 

From there I can start building the rest of the trunk. I'll need to start that so I can run the power under the car and decide where, exactly, it's going to punch through at. 

Starting to make progress. I should be done by the end of January and ready for tuning.


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## IBcivic

now you are making me jealous,man...lol
super nice job on the doors [i agree on that black snot-based sealant...pain to remove!]

those door openings are ginormous!!! good for deadning, though

keep it up man!


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## krouchchocolate

Nice build so far man! What kind of ideas do you have for your trunk setup?


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## scooter99

Stink: Yes good for getting your arms and hands inside to deaden for sure. Especially when you've got arms and hands my size. I'm definitly not build for car audio but I love it! BTW, tell me what you think abou this thought, and anyone else can comment of course, but I was in the shower this morning and it dawned on me. I was going to use that cheap anti fatigue matting from harbor freight, 4 2x2 sheets per pack at $10.00, to put on the floor over the deadener and under the carpet. I'm thinking about that and I think I'm going to have some serious fitament issues in putting trims back on so I think that may be a no go. So my thought I had this morning was to use that instead of aluminum sheeting, especially since I have it already, and deaden inside and outside. Screw it to the door and then deaden the top of it again. I think it will work fine. Just don't know if that's going to cause too much flex. But i think I'm going to fill the doors too with polyfill to prevent any vibration issues as well. Not sure if that will work or not. The other thing I can do is put a piece of 1/4"mdf over it for rigidity. I have that at home as well. Hmmmmm.

Krouchchocolate: Thanks for the comment. I'm going with an IB wall set up, if you didn't see that part, and then I'm going to do a false floor in the trunk for the equipment. I'm using two Audison LRx amps, 6.9 and 4.1K. I'm using the Audison Bit One for Processing. I have Audison Connection gear for distribution etc, and all wiring etc will be under the false floor. There will be covers for everything so tha way when you look in the trunk, all you see is what appears to be a stock trunk.


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## IBcivic

add some mdf or glass[add thicness] your metal patch to add rigidity, then deaden it..

my patches were small.. so i used 1/8'' hardboard covered it with asphaltic under coating , then screwd it in ans then, applied deadener. the larger of the two patches in my door has a blob of non hardening putty in the middle of it to kill vibes.


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## scooter99

So you think I'm better off with the metal instead of the padding? With the mdf on top of it, if I'm understanding correctly?


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## scooter99

Ok so I'm making one last switch in product. I'm doing away with the Sirius radio mod, like I said previously I thought I would. I'm just too pissed at them for what happened. Anyway, I've decided to go to the HD radio Mod. Since I'm going to be stuck with regular radio, Ipod, and CD's I might as well have the best sound as I can get. That's all for now.


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## IBcivic

scooter99 said:


> So you think I'm better off with the metal instead of the padding? With the mdf on top of it, if I'm understanding correctly?


 i don't think there is a secret recipe...it needs to be rigid,dead sounding and water proof. the metal flashing is water proof but not all the rigid. a patch of glass on top , sounds like the easiest way to thicken the existing patch ...then give it the dampening treatment.


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## scooter99

Good call! I see you workin now!!


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## ErinH

The good thing about this thread, is if something were to happen to you, your family would be able to retrace the last 6 months of your life down to a 'T'. LOL.




Looking good, man. Keep up your work.


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## IBcivic

i always wanted to know.....are the satellite radio fees worth it?
when i have a rental for a week or two and there is sat radio...i tend to notice a pattern of songs rather quickly...just the thing that turns me off from regular radio. that and the endless commercials


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## scooter99

You know the more I think about it no they're not, especially when they take them out of your account without you knowing about it. But the thing I like about it is when you listent to a song on most stations and there a cuss word in the song you get to actually hear that and not a fade out or some cheezy fill in line or something like that. But for what you get, not really worth it. That's why I'm giving it up. I get the same thing with the radio, which is why I'm going to give the HD a try, it's free for one, and if the sound really is that much better then why not. 

Besides all that I have my ipod and I'm waiting to see what happens with you and your media thing. I may go that route at some point but we'll have to see about that. 

Erin, thanks, at least I know that if I ever get in trouble I can have an account of what I've been doing and where I've been!! LOL Thanks for the positive words. How's your wife's car comming along? Done yet?


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## IBcivic

lol...true...diyma is scott's secret diary


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## scooter99

Some people have drugs and alcohol.........Hi my name is Scotty and I'm an Audioholic!!!!!


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## IBcivic

x2^^


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## scooter99

Ok I bought my HD Radio Receiver tonight. Going to start some wiring tomorrow. Hopefully will put pics up tomorrow night.


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## scooter99

Lots and lots of work done today! I tried to get some stuff done yesterday but woke up not feeling well and went out to work on the car and just failed miserably. I couldn't think, and even following my diagrams nothing made since. SO I called it a day early and just chalked it up to just "one of those days"! 

Today however, I feel like I made a ton of progress with only one, or so, set backs. I'll get into detail in a bit, I'm loading pics as we speak, and I have to get my daughters ready for bed, which means bath, pj's, reading books, brushing teeth, and in bed. I'll be back in a while to upload pics and give deatails about my great discoveries, and plans and teasers and all sorts of stuff!!! :biggrinflip::inout::beerchug:epper::evilgrin:


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## scooter99

Ok so first things first. I went a new angle at wiring the car today. Yesterday I started trying to do the components and stuff and I think that's where I got confused. Today I decided to wire up the main runs and figure out where the power was going in the trunk and the final layout etc. Here are those pics.

This will be under the driver seat. This is the XDV-P6 brain on the top left, the GEX-P20HD which is the HD Tuner on the top right, then the CDIB100II Ipod Module under that, and then the VA26 video amplifier on the bottom left. I'm going to mount a board under the carpet with some t nuts or some kind of threaded insert. On top of the carpet I'll be adding a piece of 1/4" mdf with suede covering on it to match or at least look close to the stock carpet. The components will attach to this piece on top. Unfortunately with it being a shallow area I have no room to run wires under the board and come up through them. So I'll have to make the wires pretty some how on top of the board. 


This is what's going to be under the passenger seat. These will house the Under Seat Block Terminals on the left, the LED relay in the middle, and the LED Block Terminals for the cab LED lighting. These will all be in pvc boxes so that, since they're in the cab and only the seat is covering them, there won't be any toys or misc crap getting down there and having a chance to short anything out. Same application here as under the driver seat with the exception that the wires will run through the boxes and those will kind of hide the wires a little bit. 


I had decided when I stiped the car a while back, to keep the front terminal block that I had made. Not sure why, but I just had this feeling like I should hold on to it. Glad I did cause I decided I could use it on this go round as well. My goal up front, if you will recall, was to try and limit the amount of wire behind the head units. This allows me to do that. 
No terminal block.


Terminal block.


After that I had to decide what and where I was going to put the rest of the stuff. I had swithces to put in, and other stuff to think about. Here are the switches. I was going to go with non led switches but decided I really wanted to know when something was on or not. So I reverted back to the led switches. The leds on these are blue to match the leds in the rest of the car. They are not hooked up yet so I can't show you that but take my word for it, keep watching, and you'll see them eventually.

The thought is that the switch on the left will be the headrest monitor switch. This will allow me to turn on and off the headrest monitors when I need to instead of reaching back and turning them on. The middle switch will be the cabin led lighting switch. This will turn on all leds in the cabin of the car. Under dash leds, under seat leds, and I'm adding and just got today in the mail some led dots for inside the door handles. The last switch, on the right, will switch on the trunk leds. 


And since we're working up front on the car I'll give you a little teaser!! 



BUT THAT'S ALL YOU GET!!!

Another thing I wanted to do was utilize the stock AUX port door for the USB cable for the BIT ONE. I wanted to be able to use a computer up front instead of only using it in back and having to run a line or whatever. The problem with this is that I couldn't figure out how to get the port out so I can mod it to fit the usb cable. SO I did a little research, because I thought I was going to have to take the dash front off, but found out that I didn't have to afterall!! WOOHOO! It's just clipped in. So that was the great find of the day!!


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## IBcivic

nice work! i'm glad you are feeling better today,man. 

not trying to criticize at all, but i looked at the same spot for my drc, but> 
1-that's where my phone sits, most of the time 
2-i love my son so much, it would just sadden me to have to bury him for spilling soda on it.
3-i've been known to spill a drop or two of coffee in there.

now...i'm curious to see your usb outlet rig


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## scooter99

Lastly I had to figure out my final trunk layout and I must say I'm pretty pleased with it and the way it came together. Really I sat everything in the trunk based on the Option 1 format from a few weeks ago. Here's that picture. 



So after I had that in there and thought about what was going on and what room I needed it just wasn't going to work. So I came up with this and I must say I'm pretty happy with it! 

The amps, as you see, will be the center of attention, and deservidly so!


The Bit one needed to be away from the power, for my own comfort and security, but at the same time close to the amps. Remember I needed to have access to the spare tire so the center portion will be liftable to get to that spare. So I put it on the right since the RCA inputs on the amps are on the right side. 


The Audison Connection Distribution block is on the left side of the trunk. Reason for that was because the power line that I'm running under the car is going down the underside, or will be going down the underside, of the driver side of the car. I didn't want to worry about having to cross over or anything like that and again the power is on the left side of the amps. Makes since to me. 


Not pictured, well because it's not done yet, is the rear terminal block. This will go behind the amps under the subs. It will be covered, as will everything else, but not dressed like everything else because it's not something that needs to be. I may change my mind on that but for now it's a no. 

So I mentioned earlier the switch for the trunk LED's. These are going to be used on the components and amplifiers. The components and amplifiers are going to be raised up on a 1/2" piece of mdf, which will be about an inch smaller then the outter perameter of the component. Then the leds will go around that block so when the component or amplifier goes on top of it, they will have a floating effect. In theory!

So now that all that has been laid out it's time to WIRE!!! 

Here is the first harness I made. It's the one that goes from the front terminal block to the under seat block. 


Each wire or terminal has a number for it. This number is on a sheet which I will make into a main sheet to keep in the glove box for reference purposes in the future if necessary. 


So lets run some wire!


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## IBcivic

hey scott, a quick trick with those self-stick pads. a bit of super glue will guarantee the pads won't ever move on you.


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## scooter99

All power wire run to each terminal block will be 8 ga wire. Also each block will get an 8 ga ground wire which will be grounded to the chassis. Unfortunately I ran out of 8 ga, cause I only ordered enough before to accomidate the previous plans. SO I have more on order and should be here this week sometime. Here is the 8 ga from the front terminal block to the rear terminal block.





Also I ran the 8 ga and the ground from the area where the distribution block will be at. These will run to the rear terminal block, then the power will transfer from there to the othe blocks. 



Here are the main set of rca's that I made, using the gepco wire and Neutrik rca ends. I ran this in through the dash and dropped it down on the passenger side of the car. This will ensure it stays away from most power and thus less chance for noise. 




I think someone on here said something to the effect of thank god for honda's thought of leaving a hole under the frame under the front seats. I'd like to second that and you'll see why coming up. Here and in other places. 






And finished at the rear where the Bit One will reside.


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## scooter99

Here is the usb run. This is the space I showed you earlier. Now the usb cable is sitting there. I have a usb gender changer that will go in the port. That will plug in an dthe port will be placed back into the hold. Like stock!! Here's the usb run.













Again finishing in the Bit One area.


Passenger Speaker wire runs. This, again, is where that hole comes into play.
The ends are left un tied because I have to put molex plugs on and do some finishing.


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## scooter99

Driver Side, again left loose to finish.


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## scooter99

Next I ran the DRC line, since I know where it's going to be now. Not many pictures but I ran it on top of the USB cable. 



Back to the Bit One area.


Next I ran the line from the front terminal block to the rear terminal block. 

Here you can see the line from the front to the underseat terminal block that I ran first, then the 8 ga power wire from the front block to the rear block, and now adding the last line to the rear block from the front block.












And here's my 5 year old supervisor giving me the smiles saying "Nice Work Daddy"! That'll make anyone's heart melt!! 


I tried to get some other stuff done, and this was the only real issue I had all day long! I tried to get the sun visor monitors installed really quick and ended up with issues. The screw holes don't line up, and the part that holds the visor to the roof is a clip in so the new one has no where to screw into. So I'm gonna have to do some brain storming and see what I can come up with. 

Other than that, it was a great smooth day, especially compared to yesterday, and I can't wait to get back to it. I have a lot of finish work up front to do and still a couple of wires to run, when I get them, then I'll be able to get the interior started to put back together. But I'm not gonna rush it! I just hope I can have progress like I had today in the future!! 

Goodnight all!!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so I never updated you all that I'm an idiot. I tought someone stole my stuff with my wires in it and everything. Apparently that's not the case. I found the box and it was burried under a bunch of stuff that apparently fell over. With the christmas season so hecktic I never cleaned up and so when it had fallen over, I never saw it. Anyway, I had already bought stuff for the new rca's etc. That all arrived today. I'm going to go ahead and use them cause I bought the black neutrik connectors this time and black gepco wire, which is half the size of the canare. So anyway, that came today, which reminded me of the incident so I thought I'd update everyone. 

I also bought some Gepco coax cable for the video lines, and I'm happy to not use that stuff. Good thing it wasn't expensive. Wow that's like a branch off a tree it's so stiff! So that was a waste but I got new video connectors and where everything is placed I think I'm going to have enough line to work with anyway of extra that I had left. 

Ok I'll update more as I get it!


----------



## scooter99

Ok got my power wire today to finish wiring up the terminal blocks. Also got my leds for the trunk for the amp rack. So I'm going to finish wiring up the cabin this weekend as well as try to work on getting some progress made on the trunk. I have lots of ideas and off those ideas better ideas. I'm anxious to get it all put together. 

We have hit some interesting times in our home however and I'm hoping this isn't going to happen but there's been talk between my wife and I about selling my car. Reason being is that she's about to take a 15% pay cut at work and that's a pretty good chunck of change. She doubles my measly salary so it's gonna be a tough one to over come. Again I hope it doesn't happen cause I'll be horribly saddened especially after all the work I've put in and am putting into this thing. But only time will tell. We have a couple options, so keep positve thoughts coming our way please. 

Until this weekend, have a good week. I should be getting my HD radio tuner this week also. It shipped out on Saturday so I hopefully should have it by tomorrow or friday! I think that's all I have out there waiting to come in. 

I'll update as I have more to!! Goodnight all!


----------



## scooter99

We're golden at the moment. Got my HD tuner today, and that should be it to finish things up. I'm in the process of selling my truck and some financial things are getting worked out. As for the car, right now it's looking good, we're going to keep it. I'm gonna work on it some more this weekend. Woohoo!


----------



## IBcivic

man, you worried me for a bit.... good news, then!


----------



## scooter99

Yes I think we're gonna make it. It's gonna be a tough year on me, cause I'm gonna have to work my ass off on overtime and other stuff but we're gonna be good come next year. About to come into some money for a big job for the spring time from my parents and we're gonna pay off my wife's car with that. I'm gonna work a ****load of ot and make triple payments on mine this year and have it paid off by next christmas, I hope. Then next year the girls are going to a really really good public school instead of a private like now and we'll be, according to paper, be living the best we've ever lived in our lives. So I'm willing to do it as long as we're going to be put in a great position and that's what it looks like we're going to be in. Next year we'll see about financing a trailer. BTW I took my truck in today to get a price on it, and tomorrow i'm going to be looking at getting a better one for no money basically. Keep fingers crossed, I'll update when I can!!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so I got some ok progress done this weekend. I still have more wiring to finish in the cab. Man there's alot. But I'm about 80% done now and I'm getting some stuff put back together. I got some little projects done that some of you are anxious to see. And there's the same old boring wiring pics. But hey, a system doesn't run off osmosis right!! So here we go. 

First thing I did was look deeper into the auxillary port idea I had. I already bought the usb gender changer, port, and I have to usb cable already ran. So I got the aux port that I took out previously and tried to figure out how to make it work for what I needed. Here's what I did. 

First of all it's two pieces. It's a cap and a body. Those two pieces come apart. There are three tabs. one on the top and two on the bottom. 




A little finess and viola!!


Next is the meat of the body. Once the cap is off, you'll see the port still inside the body. Take a pair of needle nose pliers or something like that and gently pull straight out. Now you have an empty body. 






Empty body.


Next I held the usb port to the cap portion and using a pencile, outlined the port to cut the hole. I just use a knife to do this, probably not the safest idea, but it was effective. Might get better results with a dremel or something like that on low speed. But however you want to do it is up to you. 




Next you need to hollow out the body and cut out the back end so the usb port will fit all the way through. There are several different porst you can get just about anywhere they sell computer gear. The one I purchased was a little thick so I had to cut it down a touch. It's rubber on the outside so I just shaved it down a bit. 

*NOTE: THE BODY IS A HARDER PLASTIC THAN THE CAP. BE EASY WHEN CUTTING IT OR YOU'LL MAKE THE MISTAKE I DID IN BREAKING IT. I USED SOME SUPERGLUE TO PUT IT BACK TOGETHER.*


----------



## scooter99

Now don't make the same bonehead mistake I did. I used superglue to glue the usb port into the body. That's not the mistake. The mistake is that when I put it up to dry, I stood it on it's door, face down, and the super glue ran through it and screwed up the spring mechanism on the door so it won't move now. I ordered another one but don't make that mistake and you won't need to. If you're worried about it and you do want to use superglue, simply remove the door. It's not hard. One side is spring loaded so it just pops out. Here's the rest. 

The white residue is the superglue. It'll all be hidden cause that's the part that goes into the dash. If I decide I don't like that anyway, I'll get out the black primer spray paint and fix it. Not sure yet. 

Ms. New USB Port, meet Mr USB Cable.


Whoa, they seem to have hit it off!!


Ok it's getting a little graphic in here! GET A ROOM!!!


Ok moving on!!

The next order of business was the power wire, which I was short of last week. I got the new stuff in, got it flexed and heat shrink on it and installed. 








Next I had to run the grounds for the front terminal block and the under seat terminal block. I was looking for a good spot and since the factory ground bolt was under the passenger seat already, it made for a pretty good spot to put a second on in, but better. I took mr dremel and introduced him to mr metal and took the paint off and made a clean place for the grounding terminal. I swore I took a picture of the bear metal but apparently I didn't or I deleted it or something. Anyway, you'll have to trust me, it's bare. Here's the terminal.


----------



## ErinH

Do you have a spot in your dash where the VSA switches are? This didn't come with my car, but thought you might have it in yours. 
If so, you could use that area to mount the USB box. 

If you can surface mount the USB female here, and then use a 3' jumper to your laptop when you want to tap into the bitone, that would be slick.I'm planning on doing the same thing. My car doesn't have these buttons or blanks from the factory, but the part itself is only about $4. 



Picture for reference:











PS: If you dont mind, would you shoot me a PM with where you bought your piece at? I was going to shop around for the standard USB A type connector (looks like yours is B type, iirc), and figured I'd start where you purchased yours.


----------



## IBcivic

nothing like a usb porn flick


----------



## scooter99

Next I added two 8 ga. ground wires. One to the front block and one to the seat block. 




To under seat block


To front block


Next I added the harness that will go from the front block to the area behind the head units. This will take the wires from the stock harness, illumination, ignition, etc., and put them on the block instead of a ton of wires curled up behind the units. Saving space. 

Block side


Units side


Then I ran the cable for the XDV-P6, the antenna for the HD radio module, and the ip bus line that goes to the head unit. These run from under the driver seat where the components will be to the head unit area. 




Again I thought I took pictures of them in the head unit area but I guess I didn't. Sometimes I get in that mode and I forget to take pictures I guess! 

Next I ran the harness feeding the components from the under seat terminal block. This is from the passenger seat to the driver seat. 

Proposed Route


Wires ran


----------



## scooter99

Erin:

I actually bought mine at fry's electronics here in sac. I don't have that panel that you have. I actually have a cubby there. That's where I was originally going to mount the DRC for the bit one, but it won't fit. It's about an 1/8" to 3/16" too wide. No the little piece that I put the usb port into is the auxillary port that I have, which is just above the lighter under the head unit. I don't have the stock unit anymore, obviously so I had no use for that and I wanted to try to run a usb cord up front. So that's where I came up with the idea for it. That way it's still kind of hidden and stock looking. 

Otherwise do a google search for usb gender changer. That's how I started looking for it.


----------



## IBcivic

scoot, did you ever find where the water was entering the inside of your ride?


----------



## ErinH

scooter99 said:


> Erin:
> 
> I actually bought mine at fry's electronics here in sac. I don't have that panel that you have. I actually have a cubby there. That's where I was originally going to mount the DRC for the bit one, but it won't fit. It's about an 1/8" to 3/16" too wide. No the little piece that I put the usb port into is the auxillary port that I have, which is just above the lighter under the head unit. I don't have the stock unit anymore, obviously so I had no use for that and I wanted to try to run a usb cord up front. So that's where I came up with the idea for it. That way it's still kind of hidden and stock looking.
> 
> Otherwise do a google search for usb gender changer. That's how I started looking for it.


I hear you loud and clear on that. Mine's a cubby too. I thought you might have the panel there. But, I don't either. 
Actually, I'd probably prefer to have mine tucked out of the way, anyway. currently I just pull the cable out of the console, but having a spot under the dash that I could plug into would be sweet. 

Not wanting a gender changer. My cable is USB A type at the end already. Basically, looking for a panel mount coupler. So far I've not found and A to A, yet, though.

Did find this, though:
Neutrik NAUSB-B NA USB Black Panel Mount A - B Type NEW - eBay (item 330392395851 end time Feb-03-10 15:57:51 PST)


----------



## scooter99

And under the driver seat to it's final destination. I'm going to finish this off with a molex plug and then all the components will go into the other half of the plug. That way it makes things easier to finish off in the end. Nice and neat! 



On a little side jont, I had to make some fuse blocks to go with the components and the screens I have. So I just picked up some cheapies at autozone here in town for a couple buck each and decided to use those. They have a slide and lock feature so I can put more than one together. Then I labled them. 





These are what the component harness will terminate into. The power will come from the terminal block under the passenger seat, where these will be located as well, then into these fuse blocks. 

Let's see, then I made a little harness to run from the front block to the switch bank in the center console. This also will be finished off with a molex plug, that way if I ever have to remove the center console I have one plug to remove, not every wire on all three switches. I still have to make that harness as well. 




Last project today was the rear door handle led dot. I only was able to do one, cause I ran out of time. But I feel like it's a big accomplishment. I ordered some leds from ebay with chrome surrounds. The plastic one's just seem so cheap and break easily. I thought these would look better and last a while. The plastic one's also just pop in, these bold down with a nut on the other side. 

Pretty simple, drilled a hole. Soldered some extra wire on to extend to where I needed it. Tightened it with that nut. Here it is in place. 


The back side


Used a zip tie and one of those tags to hold it so the wires don't get pulled.


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## scooter99

Erin, I almost bought that exact one. But I didn't like how it would've just stood out with no cover. That's what I would've gone with though if this was too difficult. You can get that aux port on majestichonda.com. Here's the link.

Honda Automotive Parts

You'll see it on the picture, but if it doesn't work here's the part numbers for them. Like I said it's two pieces, the body and the cap. But you need both for it to snap into the housing on the dash. 

2321906 - Cap assembley
2698622 - Socket assembley

Hope that helps. 

Like I said I ordered a new door for mine, cap, and I'll take pics when I get it in and on.


----------



## scooter99

Next I ran the wires down to where the harness is for the window button. That way I can unplug it or plug it in when removing the door panel. 


Put a molex plug on both sides.


And connected.


Of course I still had to put the panel on, this is my major accomplishment since I have a piece of trim back on! WOOTWOOT!! So I unplugged them. Put the panel on. 


And now you can see how easily accessable the plug is from this location. 


Then the window button panel back on and the driver side rear door is back together.


Then for the final affect I had to get the light going. A true since of accomplishment. It feels nice!!! 

This one was in the light.


This one was with the work lights out.


And this one with no lights on.


So that's it. It's actually a little brighter than the pictures portray. But they're meant to be accent lighting anyway. Nothing to bright. There will be other lights under the seats and those will be plenty bright I'm assuming. We'll see next week! I'm really pleased with the way it turned out! So are my daughters. Got the roll of the eyes from my wife, but that's to be expected!! LOL

So that's all for this week. I have a quite a few things to do to finish wiring the cabin so I can get on with the trunk. I have great ideas, or so I think, for the trunk and I want to get started on it. But this is more important right now. 

Comments anyone! Love to hear em! 

I'm going to bed tonight. I'll talk to everyone tomorrow! Good night!!!


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## scooter99

amitaF said:


> scoot, did you ever find where the water was entering the inside of your ride?


You know what, I don't think I did but I think that I was messing with trims etc, and I didn't put the door sill back on correctly and I honestly don't think the door was all the way shut. Hasn't leaked since so I think we're good.


----------



## 99IntegraGS

bikinpunk said:


> Not wanting a gender changer. My cable is USB A type at the end already. Basically, looking for a panel mount coupler. So far I've not found and A to A, yet, though.
> 
> Did find this, though:
> Neutrik NAUSB-B NA USB Black Panel Mount A - B Type NEW - eBay (item 330392395851 end time Feb-03-10 15:57:51 PST)


Sorry about the hijack, OP.

Erin, what about this...










USB Panel Mount (female) to USB Male cable - StarTech.com

Could you work with that?

This might have worked for scooter...










http://www.startech.com/item/USBPNLBFBM1-1-ft-Panel-Mount-USB-Cable-B-to-B-Female-to-Male.aspx

JD


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## scooter99

Those are good ones too. I looked at those as well, but I didn't want the screws to show. They might work for erin though! I did like those for sure.

Update.

Taking a couple days off coming up. Gonna have Friday, Saturday, Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday to work on the car from morning till night. I should get some serious progress done this weekend. I may wait until next week to post pics though. Depends on how my evenings go. 

Stay tuned!!!


----------



## kyheng

Well, you can always use some black flat screws for the job....


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## scooter99

That's a good point too!!


----------



## IBcivic

i was skimming through the new posts and found this....expensive,but sexy as hell

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...91-bulkhead-style-usb-adapter.html#post934591


----------



## scooter99

That is pretty sick! That would probably work well for what erin wants to do . 

I'm making really good progress today. I'm actually sitting down right now to make a checklist to finish the cabin. I want to make some changes but for now I'm just going to get it together and get things going. I'll make changes later down the road when things settle down at home. I'll post up pics tomorrow, but great progress has been made today!!!


----------



## n_olympios

Alpine does a USB extension with a flush mount plastic ring at one end, it's pretty nice. I couldn't find it through their site doing a quick search though.


----------



## scooter99

Ok folks I'm making pretty good progress. DAMN there's a lot of wiring in this car. But I'm at the end stages of that, and the carpet is back in and I've got some finish work before I can throw the trims back in. I'll get pics up soon I promise!! Most likely tomorrow night. I have to load them all, which i'm doing right now. But I'm still off one more day tomorrow so I'm gonna be doing some more work then too. So more pics will be taken tomorrow as well! Stay tuned!!


----------



## scooter99

92 images uploading to my photobucket account right now. This is gonna take a bit!! I don't understand, and maybe it's just my computer, but when I'm loading this many pictures it says at the bottom, like 4 minutes for 56K motem and 13 seconds for dsl/cable. Yet it takes like an hour for all these pictures to download. What am I doing wrong, or is it just alot of stuff and it just takes this long. And if it does why don't they say, 45 minutes to download, or something. Ok I'm done! See you all tomorrow!!


----------



## scooter99

Does anyone know offhand if the Pioneer DEH-P800PRS comes on standard mode or processing mode. Can't find anything in the manual on it, and I installed it this weekend and don't think I checked it. I really don't want to pull the unit to check a switch but if I have to then I guess I'll have to. Info Please?!?


----------



## kyheng

Hard to tell.... it can be either way. Best is you turn on the power and see on what mode. You should be running on Standard mode....


----------



## scooter99

Ok well I'm not going there yet. I'm really worried about this pico fuse thing. I'll wait until everything is wired up and ready to go. Then I'll worry about that. If it needs to be changed I'll just pull it and do it I guess. Thanks.


----------



## ErinH

you don't happen to have the haynes manual for the civic, do you?


----------



## scooter99

Ok so continuing on with the build. I'm not doing very well this morning. Haven't even started anything yet and it's 1030. Was supposed to be off today but had to go into work for a bit to take care of an issue. So I'm home now and it's raining like crazy outside. So I thought I'd take a few minutes to throw up some pictures. 

First lets start with the head unit and dvd player. I was tired of not seeing any major progress and was getting close to being done with the running of the front wires, so I thought why not throw in these units. 

Before I go any further let me just give a little product comparison. Maybe just my inexperience, but listen. I had the scosche kit in my car, before I ruined when I painted it, and then decided I'd try the metra kit that maybe it would be a little closer to the color match of the dash pieces. Now let me just say, I HATE THIS KIT. I think it's way off the mark as far as fitment, the units sit too far back, and the design of it is the worst I've seen. Now I'm using two units so maybe it's different with one or whatever, but I'm so very unhappy with this kit. I'm probably going to go back with a Scosche kit as soon as I get some money together. That being said here's some pictures.

This is the Pioneer DEH-P800PRS wiring harness. I techflexed and heat shrunk the audio outputs because they're not needed and I wanted them out of the way. Everything else is soldered and heat shrunk.




Next is the Scosche stock wire harness. I pulled everything out of it that I wasn't going to need, so that I could limit the amount of crap taking up the excess space back behind the unit. 


This is the ground wire in a molex plug for the grounds on the rca's. Simple plug and play for easy removal if necessary. 


Here are the two harnesses along with a remote wire for the antenna. These all go to the front terminal block where they'll be connected. The Remote wire also has a molex plug. 


All put together for one run.


Space prepped for the units


Here is a picture of the units in the Metra kit. I litterally took an hour and took this thing apart like 3 times before I actually got it right. I know I'm not the smartest person in the world but come on it's a freaking dash kit!! Shouldn't be that difficult!!


RCA's connected. The main run is a set I made out of neutrik connectors and gepco wire. These were made last august, I think, or whenever I was in Washington. These are pretty much the only thing that got utilized out of all that work I did. What a waste. But it was a learning experience. 


Heatshrunk to assure nothing slips or comes off.


----------



## scooter99

And finally the units are in! 


I guess that's not a very good picture. I'll see about a better one today!

Next I made a harness with a molex plug for the switches in the center console. This again is for easy removal if needed. Also makes for a tighter cleaner install I think. 






BTW, if you haven't noticed, and I haven't said. Cause I frankly don't remember if I said this or not, and I'm not gonna go back just to find out, I've numbered all wires and made a data sheet for each wire that's ran in this car. That way when all needs to be hooked up I can use my sheet and know what is what and where it goes. All my wire diagrams are numbered as well to follow the wires etc. That being said, lets move on!

After that I started concentrating more on the finishing of the component floor and the terminal floor. I made a couple panels with the seat outline in mind. Then I decided to cover them with suede, partly cause I had it sitting around, and because I thought it would look pretty good. It turns out it's off in color but it's under the seat and I don't think it's gonna be seen that well. Here are those. 

First up is the Wire Terminal Block, Fuse Block and Relay Block Panel.
I cut out the little notch because the wires run through a sunkin groove in the floor. There's alot of them so instead of trying to drill a big enough hole, I just cut this out and you'll see when I cover it, I go over the top of it and then put a slit in it so it looks whole from the outside. You'll see.


Test fit


Covered in suede


The layout.
The box on the left is the main wire box. The center top is the relay box for the neon relay. Under that is the fuse blocks. Then on the right is the wire box for the neons. 


This is with the tops on them. I decided to go with these in the car because the under seat terminal blocks are the only exposed wire terminals in the car. The front one has the center console to cover it, the rear will have an mdf cover over it. I didn't want to take the chance of anything getting on top of these and shorting out or worse than that starting a fire! Better safe than sorry. And again it looks nicer!!


I also had bought some terminal jumpers for these instead of making an excess of wire jumpers. Well I had to switch out boxes because the jumpers made the height about 1/8" taller than the box would allow. That didn't make me comfortable so I went to taller boxes. Same look just taller on the sides.


----------



## scooter99

Now the component panel
Test fitting.


Covered in suede.


The layout.


After those I started wrapping up the floor. Most all things are ran, at least enough to start thinking about putting the floor and carpet back together. I put down, using some 3m spray glue, some of the anti fitigue mats from harbor freight. 1 package of 4 for 10.00. Can't beat it! I used one package for my entire floor. Course this is a civic we're talking about!!

I just went up to the wires with this. The reason for it, was to raise the floor so there weren't any lumps from the wires as well as to hopefully provide some more sound quieting! We'll see what happens. And if nothing else, It's SQUIGGY!!!! LOL!!




Opps forgot to run some wires.




Next are the doors! I got the rear door done, leds and panel back on. This was easy. This is the rear passenger side. Same routine as the rear driver side. You can refer back to it, somewhere.


Led in the handle shot!


----------



## scooter99

Then came the ass whoopin!!! 

I started the front doors a while ago, deadening and getting ready for the cover of the big hole. I had great plans!! Man why does this stuff always happen to me. 

My plan was to use a sheet of metal, followed by a piece of 1/4" mdf deadened on both inside and then out to seal the door. I was worried about rattling between the two so I used a piece of closed cell foam in between as a sandwich effect. Cut them out and then tried to put them on the door! FAIL!!!! Too thick. So I took out the foam, and FAIL AGAIN!! Still too thick. The problem was the pocket on the bottom of the door panel. If I was able to cover the panel right now, I'd just cut it out and go on with life. But I don't so I didn't. I ended up with just the metal and deadened it on both sides. It's still pretty stout and the door panel went on fine. 

Also put in an alarm led on the top of the door next to the outside handle, as well as the led on the inside handle like the other doors. 

I know shut up and show pics!


----------



## scooter99

So with those out of the way it was time to work on the door.





Water cover.




Speaker terminations. White pos, black, neg. Soldered connections




Same thing on the driver side. 

Here's the panel fiasco!
Template I made out of printer paper taped together. 


I used two sheets of 1/4" mdf so I wouldn't have issues with cutting the metal.


HOLY SCREW JOB BATMAN!!!


And cut out!


----------



## scooter99

So here are my pieces of wood and metal.


Deadened the inside half of the metal


Cut out the foam.


The three pieces.


Screwed together as one panel.




AND FAIL!!!


This is where I got before I figured out it wouldn't work!


This f-ing door took me 5 hours to do! What a joke! Matter of fact I was so frustrated that by the time I got done I forgot to take pictures of the metal on the door, and forgot to test the lights. 
But here is the connection. These are molex's also for easy disconnect.


Notice my easy fix for the tweeter holes, for now! That's grill cloth I had, from the pillar pods the first time!

Door complete! Sort of! 


After I finished the driver door I went back to check the light on the passenger door and realized that I was a little rough, in my frustrations, and broke the contacts for the led. So I had to replace it. GRRRRRR!


----------



## scooter99

This is the driver door!

Speaker terminations


Metal on the door and deadened.


Door completed!


This one took me a fraction of the time! How frustrating!

Next I put an alarm led in the center roof dome light. Pretty self explanitory! 






This is the alarm led plug. This was a failed plan as well. The only one that worked was the one in the ceiling and it was supposed to be blue. IT'S FREAKIN RED!!! Anyway, I did some looking and decided for now to disconnect the ceiling one, and the passenger side door, and the driver door works fine now. I guess 3 can't be run, or I don't know. Not important right now. Maybe someone can chime in on this and help me out. 


Here are the terminations for the speaker cables. Mid bass, mid range, and tweeters. 


Zip tied in place and the mid bass connected. Both sides done this way.


----------



## JayinMI

A friend of mine is a light fiend. I put something like 4 or so LEDs off his old Code Alarm, they wouldn't work well wired in parallel (I'd have had to add a transistor to bump up current capacity) but wired in series they worked pretty well. I did this something like 14 years ago and they still worked when he got rid of the truck early last year.

Jay


----------



## scooter99

Next I had to make some video cables. The shorties are for the connection from the dvd player brain to the video amplifier, and the other is for the driver seat monitor which comes down right there and didn't need a long one. The long one is for the passenger side monitor. 



So I got those ran and then at 11:30 last night I put in the carpet. Now it's dirty, there's stains, that's the way life is! That's why the car gods made floor mats!!

Driver side in .




Passenger side done.




WHAT A MESS!!! 

Time to put the panels down.






Then I drilled some holes, put some grommits in, and ran some wiring into the boxes! That was at 1am and at 130 I was exhausted! 


So that's where I stand now. Lots too be done, but the cutting needs to get done. So I'm heading out now to try and get the trunk cut and ready to go in! Wish me luck. I'll be back later, sometime, with more pics!


----------



## scooter99

JayinMI said:


> A friend of mine is a light fiend. I put something like 4 or so LEDs off his old Code Alarm, they wouldn't work well wired in parallel (I'd have had to add a transistor to bump up current capacity) but wired in series they worked pretty well. I did this something like 14 years ago and they still worked when he got rid of the truck early last year.
> 
> Jay


This is a little beyond what I know about. Can you help me with how to wire this up. I'll be happy to try it. It's only three lights for crying out loud, shouldn't be a problem! Thanks for the input!


----------



## IBcivic

what kind of door speakers are those ....they look cheap and bling-bling flashy


----------



## IBcivic

those speaker pods ended up being just perfect to use as rain sheilds, i see. i'm glad they fit your application.
the ml-165 grills were almost exactly the size of the oem wannabe speaker grill.... you'd gain a fair bit of output, by cutting those out.


----------



## JayinMI

scooter99 said:


> This is a little beyond what I know about. Can you help me with how to wire this up. I'll be happy to try it. It's only three lights for crying out loud, shouldn't be a problem! Thanks for the input!




How I did his was like this positive (red) led output from alarm to red wire on first led, then black (if it's DEI it might be blue) out to red of the next led and so on, then the last black (or blue) led wire goes back to the alarm's negative led output. Like wiring speakers in series. The problem is if each LED draws 250ma and it's only a 500ma out from the alarm brain, then 3 aint gonna cut it  With them wired in parallel you draw more current, with them wired in series, you draw more voltage, IIRC.

Jay


----------



## scooter99

Yea those pods were perfect for that. I was going to use them in the rear as well as some 4" baffle pods for the 4" coaxals but I decided to use them for this instead and they worked perfectly. They go just past the magnet for coverage. Nice work. 

Yeah they're just cheezy cheapo wal mart speakers. :laugh: I can't wait to hear em! 

I get the series thing. I'll give that a shot and see what happens. I, ufortunately, blew the passenger door one today, checking it to make sure it worked. Oops! So I'll replace that one and see what I get. If I get those two, I'll be good with that. We'll have to wait and see what happens. 

Good progress today. The IB Wall should be done and ready for carpet this afternoon. Was hoping to get the trunk at least started and cut but not sure that's gonna happen. I'm happy that some progress is finally being made though. Woohoo!


----------



## scooter99

One step forward, two steps back!! GRRRRR. 

So I got the IB wall and trim piece in and sealed up yesterday. However, I went to do the rear fill pods and can't get them in past the face of the IB wall. So I'm going to try something else, when I get some time tonight, and if that works great. If not I'll have to remove the wall and get those in. Pics later!

Got my stuff from majestic honda yesterday, but they sent me the wrong piece. So I may just leave the usb port exposed. We'll see what happens with that. I may just call them and see about getting the right piece. They sent me the piece for the outlet not the aux port. 

So that's all to report for now.


----------



## scooter99

Ok I'm changing the placement of my ipod and my drc. I found a link on my civic forum that doesn't consist of the same thing, but the idea is awesome!!! I have pics of what I did on monday but haven't had a chance to get them up yet. 

I made a schedule today about the rest of the build, and it looks like the middle to end of next week I should be done with the majority. There will be some changes in the future, I'm already sure of that, and cosmetics as well. I'll update pics if I get a chance tonight. I'm going to be working more tonight though, so I may not get time. 

This thing has pretty much gone from taking and putting up pics, to taking pics working and putting up when I get a chance. Bare with me, I'll get them up! 

I CAN SEE THE LIGHT FOLKS!!!!


----------



## scooter99

I fear I've lost a lot of people! But that's fine I understand. I'm hitting some snags! Not with the build per say but things at home are not so, um good, so build time is choppy right now. I am going to finish and I'm trying to get it done soon, but family and marrige comes first and this is gonna have to take a seat in the back! I'll continue to update as I can. Hope everyone understands! Thanks!


----------



## IBcivic

take care of the family first...the build is just a hobby,bro


----------



## scooter99

Yea that's what I need to do. I will build when I get time but right now it's dependant on what's going on with home. Thanks for the positive words! 

Are you home yet, speaking of building being a hobby?


----------



## IBcivic

still in bawstin for the up n comming week


----------



## scooter99

ah ok. Be safe!


----------



## scooter99

Ok I've got some pics loading from this morning and the other day. Once they get done, I'll post em up!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so here are the pics.

Here's what I've been dealing with all week and weekend! 


I have a big tarp up that I'm able to cut under and stay mostly dry under. 

I started building the rest of the wall and getting things sealed up. I started with a trim piece to finish off the opening. This will allow a couple of things. Number one it will allow me to install some led's for the inside of the ib wall compartment. Secondly it will just finish it off, as far as I'm concerned. It will all be carpeted and finished off. 

I started with a paper template of the inside part of the trunk. 




Transfered that to the mdf.


Cut it and installed it, dry run. Fit perfectly, and wen't in pretty easily. 




Then I slid the box in and had an issue. It went from about 1 1/2" on the top to being to short on the bottom. So I made my adjustments and cut my new piece. 


Then I had to figure out how to attach it all so it would be solid.


----------



## scooter99

The trim piece has threaded inserts as well and that's how it all attaches. Also I used threaded inserts to attach it to the frame of the car. I need to take more pictures of all of that done, I forgot here, but I will today. 

Here it is all sealed with foam insualtion.


This morning I cut out the trunk base for the amp rack that I made a while ago out of construction paper and tapped together. Then I cut it out of mdf. 



The layout.




The components close up.

The rear terminal block layout with led relay


The Audison LRx 6.9, Tweet, Mid Range, and Rear Fill amp in the middle


The Audison LRx 4.1K, Mid Bass and Subs amp


The Audison Bit One on the passenger side trunk outlet.


The Audison Connection SFD 41C Distro block on the driver side trunk outlet.


Finally I flipped the center pieces around so that the rca inputs are on the passenger side of the trunk facing the Bit One and the Power and speaker terminals are on the driver side facing the SFD 41C. This will help the separation process in keeping the power and signals separated! 


Right now I'm in the process of building the riser platforms for the units and then I'll start figuring out the compartment areas. More to come later!


----------



## IBcivic

WOOHOOO...keep it comming


----------



## scooter99

Thank you, thank you. I'm workin on it. Lunch break right now. I just found out how difficult it was to put suede on. Corners weren't fun!


----------



## JayinMI

I've never worked w/ suede, but I know it's a bear. The best lesson I ever learned about wrapping things is to avoid sharp corners and certain shapes. Just shaping things differently can save you a TON of work.

Jay


----------



## scooter99

Ok so I'm all done for today! Wife had to work so I didn't get as much done as I wished I could've but I did manage to get the trunk started and completely laid out. Got the riser panels completed and leds on them and some walls built for the amp rack. Here are the pics.

Riser Panels


Components on the riser panels.






Riser panels wraped in black suede.








Started putting leds on the riser panels


----------



## scooter99

How it'll look 
SFD-41C






Bit One






Amp (only did one because the other looks the same.


----------



## scooter99

Here's the extent of what I did in the trunk.

Base of the amp rack.


Started the walls. 


And that's it for today! More when it gets done.


----------



## IBcivic

are you going to hinge your amp rack? i remember my false floor/amp rack being in the area of 30-40 lbs with both amps attached to it.

i like the led glow around the amps.


----------



## scooter99

Thanks. It's working out just as I though it up. I'm very happy about that. 

As far as the lifting up and hinges. I think I might do one of those strip hinges you see at the depot or lowes. They're like and hope chest hinge or whatever, long and thin. Then I may, if I get to it, put in one or two of those gas shocks to lift it easier. But it's not on the tops of the priortiy list. Also the only reason I'll need to get in there is to get the spare anyway, so I may just keep a stick in there or piece of copper pipe to prop it up if I need to. Otherwise there's no reason to go too far with it. 

The only thing I'm concerned with is how tall the walls on the rack are going to be. They're 3 1/4" tall right now, then another 5/8 on top of that. They're tall! I was just worried about it affecting sound by cutting into the sub area. They're sitting abot 3 inches behind the rack but the rack does protrude into the path of the subs. Don't know if that makes since but that's what I'm looking at. 

Otherwise I'm happy with the way it's going, besides the timing. I was hoping to be mostly done by now. That's not happening. Oh well!

I'm exhausted, I'm going to bed! Goodnight!


----------



## ebrahim

How good are the Hertz components? I am seriously looking into a 2 way up front. I heard the Hi Energy and the Mile series in a showroom floor but never in a car. Also how good are they compared to Arc Audio components, Boston Acoustics components?

Thank you



scooter99 said:


> Ok everyone here's the new install thread. I spoke of in the last thread doing this one to clear everything up. There are some stuff that I'll be just moving over here and I'll get to that soon. First I'm going to list out for you the newest equipment I'll be using. I'm not going to list all the wires and db's and all that stuff. Just too much and makes the list too long. If you want to see it you can visit the last thread, I believe on page 15, and it's listed out there. But again some things have changed. I'm going to be detailed when I install everything. So here's the list.
> 
> *EQUIPMENT LIST:*
> 
> *Head Unit* - Alpine IVA-W505 with Ipod adaptor, Sirius Satellite, PAC TR-7, PAC SWI-JACKS, and other stuff.
> 
> *Processor* - Alpine PXA-H701 (Not running Digital Optical or whatever it's called cause I can't get the cord. Not sure it's worth it to find it.)
> 
> *Headrest Monitors* - Alpine PKG-M780 (Kids gotta have the movies)
> 
> Front stage is going to be an active set up, I'm sure you gathered that by the PXA-H701. Here is that list:
> 
> *Tweeters* - Hertz High Energy HT25's (1")
> 
> *Mid Range* - Hertz High Energy HT70's (3")
> 
> *Mid Bass* - Hertz Mille ML 165's (6.5")
> 
> With the headrest monitors I need to have rear fill, but these will be set to only be on when the monitors are playing. I have thoughts about that and am going to be testing that theory here very soon. Noone jump the gun yet please. The rear fill will be as follows.
> 
> *Rear Fill* - Hertz Dieci DCX 100's (4" coax with a 19/32" tweeter)
> 
> *Subs* - 2-AE IB15's
> 
> Obviously by the name of the subs they're going to be in an IB set up. Bikinpunk was my original inspiration on this set up. Thanks Erin, I'm definately excited about getting these in.
> 
> *Main Battery* - Kinetik HC1800
> 
> *Secondary Battery* - Kinetik HC800.
> 
> *Amplifiers* - Audison LRx amps (blue series). Installed like this.
> 
> Audison LRx 6.9 (6 Channel)
> 
> Channels 1 & 2 - Tweeters
> Channels 3 & 4 - Mid Range
> Channels 5 & 6 - Rear Fill
> 
> Audison LRx 4.1K (4 Channel)
> 
> Channels 1 & 2 - Mid Bass
> Channels 3 & 4 - Bridged for Subs
> 
> *Plans for install:*
> 
> Wires are 1/0 ga to db blocks and then 4 ga (for now) to the amps. I may just use all 1/0 ga everywhere. We'll see what happens. Gotta make that decision when it comes up. Most, if not all, wires and db's are Tsunami.
> 
> For my main battery I have to build a new tray for this and an arm off of that so that I can mount the fuse block. I have already done the Big 3 change, that's why I need two fuses. One for the system and one for the alternator in the big 3. The tray will be made of expanded metal painted black or metalic blue, not sure which yet. There will be a bottome, of course, and 4 inch sides to hold the battery in place. Pretty basic! Then bolted in the stock position.
> 
> I'll be building a false floor in the trunk to house the amps, processor, monitor brain, HC 800, and db blocks. Spare tire needs to be accessable so the floor will be hinged. Also doing a beauty panel to hide the subs and the trunk will be all one color for stealth.
> 
> Tweets and mid range will be in pods in the apillars up on the dash. The mid bass will be in he stock door speaker locations. I may have to rebuild the lower door panels, due to my inability to wait from before and installing tweeters in the doors. There will be large holes there now and I have to figure out a way to hide those. My thought is to make a new door car, so to speak, out of fiber glass and cover the whole thing in grill cloth. I'll widen the space over the mid bass so the sound doesn't get muffled out before I cover it. The apillars will be covered in grill cloth as well but in a two piece design so I can pull off the cover of the speakers if needed.
> 
> The rear fill will be a fiberglass pod that will be covered in matching grill cloth. Again in a two piece design so they can be removed if necessary.
> 
> The rear deck is going to get some kind of treatment. Not sure what yet, but the pvc trim tray rattles like crazy and I think I'll try and get creative and see what I can come up with. Minor detail to worry about.
> 
> In the rear seat I have a fold down arm rest in the center. The back of the hole in the seat where the arm rest resides when it's folded up, will be removed, re built, and coverd with grill cloth to allow sub air movement. This will allow the arm rest to still be functional and the sound to be optimal at the same time.
> 
> Somewhere along the line there will be neons in the cab, for the kids, and I'm not sure yet what's going to happen in the trunk.
> 
> So stay tuned, get ready, and enjoy this ride as it unfolds. All equipment is in had with acception of the amps, but that's soon to change as well. But there's plenty more work to be done before that happens. So we'll get started and deal with things as they come along the way!
> 
> I'm going to start pulling things over from the other thread, since they're already done and not changing. There's no since in trying reinvent the wheel this stage of the game.
> 
> Comments, of course, are always welcome!!!
> 
> HERE WE GO!!!


----------



## scooter99

That's funny you ask me. I've still not been able to hear them for myself, but everyone I've ever talked to love them. I'll be happy to and will give a complete review on my whole system when it's done, but right now I'm in the same boat, as in wondering how the sound myself!


----------



## scooter99

WHAT THE HECK?


----------



## scooter99

I want to be sure to clarify what I meant by my "what the heck" comment. Martin first let me say sorry, cause that was in no way intended towards you or anything you said on here. I'm not that type of guy. This is a learning site and if someone can benefit from my thread I'm all for that! Anyway, what I meant by the comment was that everything was double posting last night, with me and everyone else, and that's what I was talking about. I just assumed that everyone else was having that problem. So I just wanted to clear that up and hopefully no one is offended by it, and if they are then I appologize for that as well! 

Ok well hopefully I can move on with some stuff tonight but we'll see what happens!


----------



## scooter99

Martin, also, if you could repost what you said about the MLK's I'd like that cause I never really got to read what you wrote and it would be helpful to me cause it's what you were kind enough to sell to me and it would give me some extra knowledge as to how to run them etc. THanks!


----------



## ebrahim

Please do because I am looking for a component set to go active and plus I am looking to run an Orion HCCA 6.2 component set in the rear by a low power amp. I am looking at a 60 x 4 to 100 x 4 amp for the front stage and a 25 x 2 to a 60 x2 amp in the rear.



scooter99 said:


> That's funny you ask me. I've still not been able to hear them for myself, but everyone I've ever talked to love them. I'll be happy to and will give a complete review on my whole system when it's done, but right now I'm in the same boat, as in wondering how the sound myself!


----------



## scooter99

Oh yes don't worry about that. I'm for sure going to rate everything and go through it from what little I know. I will state ahead of time, however, that I'm not going to be the best person to review cause i've never known such high end equipment so it may just be overwhelming to me and so clean but to someone else it may be just "meh." There are a lot of other people here where I live so maybe I can get a few people with more experience to take a look and listen and give a review on here as well. We'll have to wait and see what happens. But something will be up at some point when this is done and running!


----------



## IBcivic

ok...not a problem.
the mlk165 set was comparable to the boston pro set. to my tastes they sounded ''warmer'' and a little punchier at the bottom end. the sound was very detailed and crisp.[i'm no expert,just trying my best to describe my experience] they do tend to be power hungry, but they deliver, when well fed[ideally150wrms - 200]. the bottom end starts to roll off under 100hz, but a little bit of e-q fixes that, easily. cant say anything of the arc comps...


----------



## scooter99

You're a gentleman and a scholar!!!!


----------



## scooter99

Ok I need someone to feed my OCD monster a little bit. I'm out of money at the moment so this wouldn't happen now anyway, but I'm curious. 

I'm looking to complete the Audison Connection gear. I have everything I need with exception of a few things. 

Here are the few things:

1) What is the difference between the Main Power Cable MP 1/0BL and the Power Flow Cable PF 1/0R? What would one be used for vs. the other. Would the Main Power Cable be used to power the system from the Battery, and then the other to power from the distro block to the components? I also would like to know where it can be gotten and for how much if anyone has that info. 

2) I want to evenatually go from the Neutrik connections to the Audison Connection connections for RCA's. That means wire and connectors. This is what I'm looking at. The SB20 Interconnect wire SB 20, with the BCP100's BCP 100. Again I would like to know if anyone know's where to price this stuff.

3) This one's a little bit of a stretch but we'll see. I was looking into different speaker cable as well. Looking at this stuff: Tweet, Mid Range, Mid Bass - S 212, Rear Fill - S 214, and Subs - S 210. Here's the link to one, the rest are just different gauges. S 212 = 12 ga, S 214 = 14 ga, and S 210 = 10 ga. S 212

So there's the latest info I'm looking at. 

The last thing I'm interested in doing is a plexi glass or something cover that I can put the brands on. I'd like to see if I can do it all in blue backlit led's to finish the theme. Not sure really what exactly I want to do here but it's something I'm thinking about for the rear corners of the car! Anyone have some suggestions? Completely for looks, nothing else!


----------



## IBcivic

i didn't know they had more than one cable....the stuff is so pliable, you could make shoe laces out of it. i'm always tempted to grab the huge spool and make a run for the door , when i go to my dealer...lol


----------



## IBcivic

the mp cable is more flexible[best] the pf cable is less flexible [better] using the ''good'', ''better'', ''best'' scale...
14 ga is more than sufficient for any speaker in your vehicle ...go to 12ga if you must on your subs...but there would be zero gain. your subs aren't going to be requiring that much power...your running I-B.


----------



## scooter99

Good point. Ok let me think about this a bit.


----------



## kyheng

Well, I will only get the cheapest bang for buck products.... As power cables is lay below the carpet, who cares the brand much? As long as it can supply you with enough of juice all day long, then it will be a good cable. 
16AWG of speaker wire is more than enough and I'm using Belden's bare wire for all the speakers I'm using now.


----------



## ebrahim

I went to a local shop and heard the Hi Energy [$300] and the Mile [$1100]. The difference was that the Mile series are more lively than the Hi Energy. In other words the Mile series sounded like you can turn it all the way up and enjoy the Sound Quality of it. The Hi Energy I noticed was that the tweeters were sounding like they were going to blow when it was turned up. Please take this into consideration that he [my brother in law] had a cd with some old music that mommy and daddy use to listen to back in the 40s and 50s. I on the other had love my Linkin Park and Evanescence. Both component sets were two way and I chose to listen to them because I decided that I wanaa do a two way up front from Hertz Audio and use my DEI / ORIONS in the rear. The Orions would be their 6.5 HCCA 6.2 component sets or their C 2.65 coaxials 6.5 . Not sure which one I wanna use in the rear but I am leaning more towards the components. If I do then I would most likely use the JL Audio 450/4v2 amp or a pair of Arc Audio or Zapco iForce amplifiers. In the trunk would be a pair of JL Audio W3 subs [10 inch] running of the crappy DEI / ORION XTR 1001. The reason for this is that my single JL Audio W3 10 is their 2 ohm model in a ported box. I will go seal with a pair.

My whole objective is that I am aiming my SQ to duplicate like you at Stadium or a Concert or even both. Yes I like to try new things thats why they call me crazy.:laugh:




amitaF said:


> ok...not a problem.
> the mlk165 set was comparable to the boston pro set. to my tastes they sounded ''warmer'' and a little punchier at the bottom end. the sound was very detailed and crisp.[i'm no expert,just trying my best to describe my experience] they do tend to be power hungry, but they deliver, when well fed[ideally150wrms - 200]. the bottom end starts to roll off under 100hz, but a little bit of e-q fixes that, easily. cant say anything of the arc comps...


----------



## kyheng

Limitations on a 2-way front setup :
you have to cross your tweeter very low, 2000Hz maybe?
you cannot cross your midbass too high, else it will "drag" your sound stage lower.

If really wanted a 2-way system, the tweeter's FS must be very low, say <1500Hz. Because you need to X2 of the FS back when tuning. Size also should be bigger.....


----------



## scooter99

kyheng said:


> Well, I will only get the cheapest bang for buck products.... As power cables is lay below the carpet, who cares the brand much? As long as it can supply you with enough of juice all day long, then it will be a good cable.
> 16AWG of speaker wire is more than enough and I'm using Belden's bare wire for all the speakers I'm using now.


I know this, but it's just the fact that knowing you have the best stuff, and because I'm a little compulsive like that to have the same stuff, brands etc, it's just the way I am. 

Lets face it, it's gonna be a huge price tag for all this stuff. SO chances are I'm not gonna get it anyway. 

And also, just for clarity sake, I'm running the main power cable in carlon flex tubing under the car. I'm gonna, hopefully, start doing that this weekend. 

Directing to everyone:

What is the best medium and lowest grade of power wire out there? I'm just simply looking for suggestions right now. But why not check into it.


----------



## scooter99

Also I want to pick everyone's brains! Here's what I'm looking to do now to complete my trunk. I know I have a long way to go before I get here, but I'm still thinking about it now. I don't know if everyone remembers, but I was kicking around the idea of some beauty panels on the trunk corners with the equipment logos on them. Here's what I'm thinking, and I'd love some input on this! 

My list of brands of major equipment:
Pioneer
Audison
Connection by Audison
Hertz 
Acoustic Elegance (subs)
Tsunami (cables)
Kinetic (battery)

Going to add, to even things out, my own sort of signature emblem. Not sure what yet, gotta think of one. 

First option:
I found some killer information on plexiglass etching, seems pretty easy! Not easy but not too terribly difficult as well. My thought is this. I'm going to take the logos on the top and divide them into different sections, so 4 on one side and 4 on the other. Etch them into the plexi glass, and then back light them or side light them, not sure what it's called, with the blue led's to match the rest of the trunk. 

Second option:
I'm going to look into getting some vinyl decals made, possibly in a clear or frosted with a sparkle in it, instead of the etching, and light the same way. Not sure where or how much the vinyl decals will cost me, but like I said it's something to look into. 

Here's how I'm going to do it. First of all I'm going to take the stock trims for the trunk and fiberglass some new ones. I'm also going to incorporate a couple of frames into the fiberglass that the plexi will screw into. That way it looks finished. Then I'll cover it with the same carpet as the rest of the trunk, and include a cover so, again, it looks like there's nothing back there. Then if I ever show it off I can strip the covers off of it, and it'll look that much better to show off. 

Input please!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so I've been doing some research on this plexi thing and it almost looks like the best way to go is the vinyl, provided I can find someone that is willing to make these logo's in a new vinyl sticker. 

Anyone have some suggestions?


----------



## IBcivic

tintbox might be able to help you


----------



## scooter99

I'm sorry what?? Excuse my in experience but what is a tintbox?


----------



## IBcivic

sorry...a memeber diyma called tintbox DIY Mobile Audio - View Profile: tintbox


----------



## scooter99

OH ok. Thanks I'll hit him up!


----------



## kyheng

Scott : I understand you, I also prefer same brand but sometimes when budget limited I will just get whatever is the best for the budget I have. Best material in the market is still tinned OFC for power cables. Don't gorget about CCA power cables also, worth to consider. But if you were to go another step higher(which is really cost you a bomb), Furutech's products. Even a fuse can cost you $10-30.

Anyway just a small note to you : Before I got your SDV-P7, my P9's IP-Bus is CD, Tuner External(CD-UB100), Aux. But once I install the SDV-P7, what I get is CD, DVD, Tuner and External and no more Aux... Seems like my P9 only can support 2 IP-Bus and no more than that. Now I need to get another optical cable in order for me to enjoy full potential of the digital input. With IP-Bus input only seems like not enough....


----------



## scooter99

Damn it. Ok well keep me posted on how it works out.


----------



## scooter99

Ok so I scored a optical cable for the dvd player. I'm going to give it a shot and see if it will work for me.


----------



## kyheng

That's fast.... You can do magic or what?


----------



## drewpage55

> Like I said they're not the best.
> 
> There's my front stage pillar pod build.
> 
> I'm anxiously awaiting feedback. :anxious:
> 
> I'm off to get my fenders rolled so my tires to rub anymore! WOOTWOOT!!


Sweet pods, lot of good ideas on constructing them - thanks


----------



## scooter99

Thank you. After havingn them in my car for a while though, even though I haven't driven with them much lately, I had a bout a month with them and they started feeling a little intrusive. I'm going to change that out at somepoint this year, I just want to get the car finished and driveable again before I try and change anything. 

Thank you for the comments.


----------



## Curt941

Have you been able to listen to them yet?


----------



## scooter99

No not yet. Nothing is operable right now. Should be in the next couple of weeks.


----------



## kyheng

^I'm screwed....... The optical cable they won't sell it by parts. Remember to put me on the list when you deciding to sell your optical cable.


----------



## scooter99

What do you mean they won't sell it by parts?


----------



## kyheng

Here's the story :
I need an optical cable in order for me to have digital signal from SDV-P7 to My P9(just like the changer XDV-P9)
I can source the long optical cable from Pioneer parts US, but it won't fit as my car's dashboard space is very limited(I'm having a lot of trouble to put in 2 HUs together) and it is too long.
E-mailed Pioneer Malaysia that sellings parts(deal with them before for few times) and enquired about it but no answer.
Phone their local service center and they say they won't sell the optical cable as parts. Must buy the whole package. Either the DSP, DEQ-P8000 or ODR line ups, RS-A7. That's mad, really mad. If I still can't find that cable, guess I have to live with current. It is good, but then the bass on certain movies just not strong enough.


----------



## scooter99

What I would do is, if you have to use the long one, utilize the area behind the glove box. There is a black pvc box back there with a good amount of room above it, meaning deep, so you could coil up the cable and not risk it getting crimped or bent etc. Just a thought. I've done this with other cables alread that aren't an issue with being bent but just becaue it's room and out of the way I've used it for that. I even put my sirius tuner in there at one point. 

Might just be another solution for you to think about.


----------



## kyheng

Yeah, I know what you mean.... But then I got others laying inside the dashboard already. Just see how it goes first and decide the next step.

BTW, is not right that I keep on telling my story. How's your install? This is more important than mine "cable" problem.


----------



## scooter99

Um kind of on stand still at the moment. Been a crazy busy week so no chance to work on it. I was gonna have all day to work on it tomorrow and sunday but I got a call from my other job about a side job to do, so money comes first, so I've gotta do that. However, it's all outside work and it's supposed to rain this weekend here so maybe I'll not work this weekend and get to work on the car. 

I'm right there on it. I have my final ideas, finish work, and I need to implament it at the moment. I should be able to, even if I have to work I should be able to finish building the trunk this weekend. Well the amp rack anyway. 

The issue is that I have to get the cutting stuff done during the day. Not very appropriate to do at night, for the neighbors, ya know. Anyway, if I can get that done this weekend the rest will be doable at night. I'm hoping that the most of it should be done by the second week in February. 

I'll kind of lay out what's left to do for now to get this thing drive able. 

1 - Build the amp rack in the trunk. I'm not very far into it, so I may start this over. I'm a little hesitent on how tall it's sitting right now. I'm at 3" walls with a 5/8" base, and a 5/8" top going on it. That makes it 4 1/2" inches tall. That's pretty tall. If you can't tell by the pictures, that really goes into the sub area. Granted the subs are going to be coverd with a beauty panel but it's just a simple concern of mine. I'll think about that some more, but thoughts are always welcome. If anything I'll go down to 1/2" MDF on everything. That way I would only really save about 3/8 to 1/2" at best. Worth it, I don't know?

2 - Run the power wire under the car, redo the BIG 3 under the hood and create a panel for the front Distro block that goes to the alternator (BIG 3) and then also back to the back distro block (system). 

3 - I have to wire up the entire car! Under seat components, center console components, rear block, and all relays, connect molex plugs, switches etc. Gotta move the DRC cable back about a foot, as well as make sure the optical cable will work for the XDV-P6. Also I have to figure out the LED's under the seats and dash and get those installed. 

4 - I also have to build the center console cubby for the DRC, and the Ipod carrier. I'm trying to figure out how to incorporate my phone in there somewhere in that area but not pressing on that one. 

5 - Head rest monitors need to be addressed. At this point I'm not sure how I'm going to do this. Not really a pressing issue at the moment, it can be done later down the line. After the car is drive able. 

Same issue with the visor monitors. I'm going to try and go down and pick up some extra stock sun visors from a pick and pull or online or wherever I can get some, and I may utilize those and mold the screens into them with resin and bondo or something and cover them. Again, that's a non priority issue right now. 

6 - Fiberglass and build panels to house the displays for the logos I'm going to have made at some point. 

I've decided I'm going to do my displays in the trunk. Here's how it's going to work, or this is the plan anyway. 

As I said before, I'm going to fiberglass the trunk trims and use those as my new trims. To that, in the little cubby area in the corners, I'm going to build a *shallow* enclosure. The enclosure will house a frame with some Blue LED's inside it. The frame will also house the plexiglass window which, when installed, will but up against the leds. This will allow the panels to be removed without ever having to remove the leds from the panel itself. 

Then there will be an outside frame or cover for the edge, which will cover up the led's and the edge of the plexiglass, where the screws will be. That cover will be finished in the same color suede as the rest of the trunk cubbies, where the amps, distro block, and bit one are. 

Then there will be a cover over that to cover everything up so when you look into the trunk, you see nothing but a stock trunk. 

Here are the panel display layouts I'm looking at doing right now. 

Driver Side.


Passenger Side.


7 - Next, the first change I'm already looking at is re doing the front a pillars. I'm goign to redo these so the mid range and the tweeter are more, built in, to the a pillar. I have a bunch of really good ideas to go off of. I'm going to stick with this format right now, listen to it for a while and change it down the road. I really need to get this thing done, and drive able again. Gas is killing me driving my truck. 

If I haven't explained it already the reason I want to change it already is because I'm not liking how close they are "in my face" so to speak. So that's the reason.

Let's see what else needs to be done. There's a ton of stuff I'm doing to the exterior of the car, but that's another story another time. Probably for another thread even. But whatever. 

Oh, rear fill needs to be installed, and the rear deck completely sealed up or completed the sealing process. 

Everything of course needs to be coverd, and the amps etc. need to be wired. Then finally tuning needs to be done!

There's a ton of stuff to do. But it's gonna go quickly I'm sure. :uhoh::worried::anxious:


----------



## scooter99

Ok so I've been thinking about this over and over again trying to avoid this situation, but I think I'm going to have to pull the wall. For two reasons. The cables I need to put in or move, the DRC cable moved and possibly install the optical cable, are under the wall now and insulated and sealed. However, the issue is that I need to install the rear fill pods, build them, but I cannot get them in past the face of the wall. So that's goign to be a slight step backwards, but once that's done it can go back in and be sealed and subs installed . 

Sorry folks just running thoughts across everyone.


----------



## kyheng

For amp rack, you no need 5/8" for them.... Maybe a 1/4" or 3/8" metal bar will be more than enough. Unless your amps are >10kg.....


----------



## scooter99

I'm thinking I may start over aqnd use 1/4" ply with sheet foam in between. Lighter and it'll cut down on height.


----------



## IBcivic

hey scott, what is your target ,thickness-wise?


----------



## scooter99

You know to be honest I don't really have one. I'm trying to be as shallow as possible and still accomplish the look I'm going for. I can use 1/4" ply on the base and the walls, foam panels in the middle for structure, 3/8" particle that I have here at home for the risers, then use 1/4" ply on the top for the covers. That will save me an inch or so. 

Ok it's date night tonight, woohoo, so I'm gonna go. Gotta work tomorrow but as soon as I get home I'm jumpin in the garage for some build time! Sunday also. I'll report back when I can!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so considering I had to work all day saturday and half today, I got some pretty good progress done today. Makes me wonder how much I could've gotten done had I had both days like the original plan was. Oh well I'll take what I can get I guess. 3 Day weekend coming up. That's gonna be huge!!! 

Don't have time for pics tonight, I"M TIRED, but I'll get em posted tomorrow for sure!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so this is what I managed to get done in the 4 hours I had to work with. I was supposed to have 2 full days but I got a call on friday for a job with my cousin, and with money as tight as it is right now, I had to take that. So this is what I did after that. 

I decided that I was going to redesign part of my amp rack to lower it a little bit and still come with the same type of effect as the original design. I decided that I would take the risers from under the amps and elimenate them all together. I added some panels to the walls of the amp rack and that's where the led's will reside. 

So starting off I had to do some decision making. I had to figure out what color would go best with the leds and not take away from the center pieces in the cubbies (amps, bit one, distro). So these are those pics. 

I took a picture with the light on for this one, but forgot on the other one. 
This is grey and black.
Light on.


In the dark


The lights just didn't seem to shine real well off the black and were really bright off the grey. So I tried the grey and a graphite grey, sort of in between color. 


You can't tell real well from the picture but it's definitely in between the black and the grey. I went with that one. Subtle and yet it works well, I think! 

Now it was time to take the trunk apart and re do it basically. Good thing I only got a couple of pieces on the other day. I used the same base, but just shortened the walls a bit, about 1 inch. 

Here's my workstation. I don't normally like to be out front and work out there cause people driving by can see what's going on, but with the big equipment and a nice sunny day, FINALLY, I didn't have much choice. Couldn't get to the back yard. 


Distrobution block panel.


Covered in the graphite suede.


With the distro in on the riser.


In the trunk.


The Bit One panel.


Built


----------



## scooter99

Coverd in suede


Bit One in place.


In it's resting place.


Next is the panel that will house the terminal blocks, and relay.


I had to decide what I wanted to do with this because i needed to have it strong enough to hold the hinges, or hinge, for the amp rack to lift up and down for access to the spare, if ever needed. At the same time it wouldn't just be as easy as putting a stip across the whole thing cause I needed the wires to be loose enough to give a little when lifted. Here's what I came up with. 



The ends are held back about 5/8" to give space for the beauty panel and just so it's not resting against the IB wall. The inner braces are held back 1 1/2" because those are in front of the subs and I wanted plenty of space so they didn't hit the subs or have any potential of hitting the subs. 



Here's how it will look when in place for all the wires to pass through.


Then I coverd the potentialy visable areas with matching carpet to the sub wall. This was for two reasons. First i was running out of Suede, and because it was not a real visable area for the terminal block and relay. I may not even make it removeable. 


Now on to the amp rack itself.


Covered and in place.


----------



## scooter99

Next came the walls where the leds would reside under. I cut these about 5/8" short of the floor and coverd them with suede also. 






They're in place now. I tried to get them wired up to show the led effect, but after having issues with the wires cause of how small they are, I decided to walk away from it for a bit. 


So that's all I got done yesterday, but I'll be doing more tongiht. Trying to get this thing drive able so I can stop spending an arm and a leg on gas in the truck. More when I get more!


----------



## angelspeedfreak

I really have been enjoying this build. It's going to be a sad day for me when you are completed  I will have nothing to look forward too anymore...........


----------



## scooter99

Well you'll have nothing to worry about. The way it's been going, it'll never end! I mean really, right now, I'm already looking at changes and I'm not even done with this part yet. But I'd say it's gonna be at least another 6 months before it's over. Maybe even more! Glad you're enjoying it!


----------



## IBcivic

:biggrinflip::guitarist::thumbsup:


----------



## scooter99

Well tonight I'm planning to get it drivable. I should have most of the interior wired up and ready to put back together. I have to get back in my car. I'm spending tooo much money in gas every month. It's killin me.


----------



## IBcivic

get back to work:whip:


----------



## scooter99

I'm planning to have this done by the end of next weekend. Well the most of it anyway. Here's my plan.

This week I'm taking Friday off, I have to get some school stuff and bank stuff handled for my daughters and my wife. Then I'll have the rest of the day, afternoon, and all weekend, to work on the car. Next weekend is a 3 day weekend and that's when I have to try and get done by! 

There's something by the 20th I wanna be done by! So wish me luck. I'm getting sooooo close! I may have to forgo a couple of things, but we'll have to see what happens with that. Those are only going to be things like the Visor monitors and headrest monitors for now. But we'll have to wait and see how things work out. 

This weekend I'm going to get the trunk amp rack fiinished off, and the subs mounted. Then I'll get the interior wiring done. Maybe if I have time this weekend I'll get the Main Power Wire ran to the back under the car. Then i can start wiring the trunk up! 

Next weekend I expect to be wired up and sound checking things! 

Sometime between now and next week, I'm hoping to get a new alarm installed too! 

So lots of work to be done, starting tonight, and I'll update when I can.


----------



## IBcivic

sound...ima jealous. 

so..which alarm brand did you end up choosing?


----------



## scooter99

I went with the Viper 5902. Auto Start and security, led color screen key fob. Its very similar in featurs to the Zenesis, but i can't find anyone around to install it for me, and the more I looked into it, the more nervous I got about installing it myself. So I'm gonna go with the Viper. Down the road, when money comes in a little bit, I'm going to add the sun roof and windows auto down, then also the garage door opener feature. But that won't be for a while. Im just going to be happy with a system I can trust, not one that makes me nervous every time I press the button.


----------



## scooter99

Ok I've scored a sewing machine to do the headrests, so they may not get left out afterall!!!


----------



## IBcivic

i need to learn how to use one..i'm sure i could some crazy ass **** with one


----------



## scooter99

well I'm in the same boat. I'm hoping I can get some lessons from mom or grandma on this. If not I'll have to get some seriously cheap fabric, or some old sheets or something and practice on that. Hmmm!


----------



## IBcivic

speaking of boats...i'll be boarding a cruise liner in san diego next friday and landing somewhere down south, depending how long i can strrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrretch the job on the ship. i'll make sure not to hurry to miss a few ports.. lol


----------



## scooter99

NICE!!!


----------



## IBcivic

no ****
one of my co-workers had to sail from puerto rico to arruba, two weeks ago. horrible work conditions, i tell ya...lol


----------



## JayinMI

bikinpunk said:


> Picture for reference:


Fixed:












Jay


----------



## AdamTaylor

what distro is this?


----------



## kyheng

Audison connections.....


----------



## IBcivic

JayinMI said:


> Fixed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jay


:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:


----------



## scooter99

AdamTaylor said:


> what distro is this?


Audison Connection SFD-41C


----------



## scooter99

Ok I'm officially heading out to do work right now. May not get any progress done but I'm at least going to see if I can get the trims back on enough to be safe to drive! If I do anything I'll post pics!


----------



## scooter99

So I got the car mostly put back together, for the next couple days at least, so I can drive it instead of my truck. I did manage to get the led's in the trunk lit up so everyone can see the effects. 

Also I'm making a change. I sat and sat and sat in the car and the more I stared at it the more I hated the Metra Dash Kit. So I came inside and bought a new Scosche kit. I'd just use the one I already have, but well I screwed it up when I tried to paint it. So the new one's on it's way and I'll feel more comfortable when it gets here and I get it in. I just don't like the look of the metra kit. It doesn't look like it lines up well at all, and the units sit waaaaaaayyyyyyy to far back. I guess that would be good if I wanted to make a panel to cover them for when I get out of the car, but for looks overall, it's not good looking in any way! So that's that! 

I also managed to pull the drc wire out a little bit. I was about a foot and a half short from the original place I was going to put it, vs the place I'm going to put it now. So that was a nice easy fix. I thought I was going to have to pull the IB wall out and reinsulate everything after I put it back in. Of course now I have to find out if the optical cable will work or not, and if it does, I'll probably have to pull it out for that. But I'll have to test it first to make sure it's gonna work. 

Stay tuned more to come!!!

Pics!! 

Amp Rack


Bit One Compartment


SFD-41C Compartment


The whole trunk!


That's all for me tonight! Bed time!!


----------



## scooter99

*FIRST OFFICIAL REVIEW!* So I got everything up and running to be able to drive the car last night. The system is nowhere near ready to start up yet, but I had to get back in my car and out of the truck. So that's what i did last night. 

Now keep in mind that I've not driven this thing in a couple months, with exception of from the side of my house to the garage to work on it. But no serious road time, no freeway time, none of that. 

So I take off this morning and the first thing I noticed was I couldn't hear my engine rev very well. Thought something was wrong. Got to the stop sign, rolled down the window and it was loud and fine. Loud meaning I was reving it up and it was running fine. Rolled my window back up, and couldn't hear it again!! That was the first sign as I continued to do my interpretation with my car of the Ace Ventura scene where he's standing outside the slider sliding it back and forth singing opra style. That was a feeling that I can't explain but I'm sure most poeple who've experienced this know what I'm talking about. So I continued on heading to the freeway. 

Now this is not the greatest review at the moment because while I put most of the car back together, I have no side trims, kick trims, bottom of the dash, a pillars, or any thing like that on. I simply put the seats in, and seatbelts bolted on. Center console is in, seats are in, carpet is in. 

That being said I hit the freeway and got it up to 85 MPH, cause I was running late, and I was just sitting in amazement at how quiet a ride the car is now. The only things I noticed noise coming in at was where the trims are not on yet. I also have not deadened behind those trims so I'm going to do that, and deaden the trims. Also down the line, I need to do the roof as well. So with those still needing to be done, I'm very very impressed with how things are sounding, or not sounding at the moment. 

That's all for now, not much of a review but that's the way it stands. 

I also did a few things while sitting in the car this morning. I've figured out that the switches I put in the center console really need to be on the new board that I'm making. I have to reach around the stick in order to filp them and that could be a safety issue. Also I had a thought on that board that would've worked out well but it's not wide enough to happen. I was going to lay my ipod down in a case or application simlar to Amitaf's in the begining of his thread. However, it's just not wide enough to do it and fit the DRC. So I'll have to come up with something else for that. I think I'll still use the docking station for it, and have it standing up. 

I'm also looking at replacement parts for the car. I have a few things I want to get replaced soon. I'm going to replace the center console pieces, shifter surround, and the cubby where the ipod and DRC are going. There are holes in this one for the switches and I really want the switches moved which will leave those holes. Also I have the holes in the center dash piece under the head unit area from the Rockford Fosgate remote knobs. I want to replace that, and then the under driver side dash piece. 

I'm just rabling and thinking out loud right now. Most of this is cosmetic and can be changed as time permits. 

Ok that's all for now. Love to hear your comments!!!


----------



## ErinH

scooter99 said:


> So I came inside and bought a new Scosche kit.


Why didn't you purchase the OEM dash piece? 
That makes a perfect fit... almost like it's OEM. 






I hear you on ordering new trim. Mine's wrecked because of me tearing my car up so much and being careless the more I do it. Of course, it's a Honda so I'm not too concerned.


----------



## scooter99

Cause i didn't know I could. I was just looking on Majestic Honda and found that there was one for the double din, but the number wasn't listed so I'll have to find it to get a price. Sigh!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so after all that, I found it, and I have a list of about $500.00 worth of trim replacements! Ouch! That's gonna be a while before all that happens. Maybe one piece at a time. Actually the most expensive stuff on there are the two lower door panels that I need to replace to get rid of those holes. But that's ok! I may just cover them somehow anyway. Maybe it's worth a trip down to the local upholstery shop and see what they will charge!


----------



## ErinH

Yea, re-upholstering or even painting the trim pieces is the cheaper choice.

I can't believe you didn't know that you could buy the trim piece, man. I never thought to tell you before.


----------



## scooter99

It's ok. I'll see about that, for a better look, and then try and sell the sosche kit or something. Maybe keep it as a back up, I don't know. it's not like it was terribly expesive. it's only 6.00 more than the OEM one!


----------



## ErinH

The thing Ilike about the OEM one is that you use the stock deck's mounting brackets. And then you can screw the mounting brackets to the dash piece, and once the dash piece is in with the headunit, you can screw together the dash piece via the OEM mounting brackets to the dash (remember, the cigarette lighter cubby has the 2 10mm bolts that screw into the radio brackets). Much more theft proof than simply having it sitting on some plastic brackets.


----------



## scooter99

I understand that completely.


----------



## IBcivic

what he said+ no funny crackling noises from the inside of the dash [especially with 18's for wheels]


----------



## scooter99

Ok sorry Martin you lost me! Explain. It's late and my brain don't work right now!


----------



## IBcivic

i meant ,using the oem bracket to hold your h-u+dvd player is superior to using the scosche or metra, plastic bracket. the oem bracket actually bolts to the dash frame work..the others just hang from the trim piece. my metra piece got noisy afeter 6 months of driving.
i thought i had rats in my dash.


----------



## scooter99

Oh yea, that makes since. I'm going to for sure get one of these. I'll have to send the Scoche kit back, cause they already sent it. Oh well.


----------



## Griffith

Scooter,

How did you get the front door panels off the civic? Is there a DIY writeup somewhere? The only one I found was the one for the Civic EX coupe. Couldn't find one for the 4dr.


----------



## scooter99

I've posted this to see about options for my visor monitor issues. Anyone here is welcome to chime in as they wish! Thanks!

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diy-mobile-audio-sq-forum/74880-sun-visor-monitor-help.html#post952772


----------



## scooter99

Griffith said:


> Scooter,
> 
> How did you get the front door panels off the civic? Is there a DIY writeup somewhere? The only one I found was the one for the Civic EX coupe. Couldn't find one for the 4dr.


I'm at work or I'd give you a picture run down as well. Maybe I can do that later if you need it. But here's how it's done. 

Look at the door. Behind the inside door handle is a small panel that is removeable with a small screw driver. Then there's a screw and a little clip behind it. 

Then you have to take out the widow/door lock panel at the handle. This is done from the inside of the handle cubby in front of that panel. Again, small screwdriver, lift up on that little tab to pop it out. Then slide that little panel to the back of the door, or away from the front of the car so to speak. Once that's off there's another screw under that. Take it out.

Once the screws are out, you just basically have to pull from the bottom to pop all the clips loose of the door, then lift up easily and it will come off. 

Once the panel is removed from the door, you'll need to remove the handle to remove it completely. There are 4 little tabs on the handle from behind the door card. You push on those and it should pop loose. Then slide it out sideways and then pull it through the panel. 

To reinsatll, just do things in reverse! 

If you need help, I'd be happy to do this with pictures if you don't understand but it won't be till tomorrow sometime. 

Another thing you can do, if you aren't already, is go to 8thcivic.com. This is a great place to hang out for civic owners and has all kinds of how to's on just this type of thing. I was there before here, and learned alot just by reading up on there. 

Feel free to pm me if you need any other help.


----------



## bigaudiofanatic

Looks great man looking forward to seeing those sexy amps mounted. UGH


----------



## scooter99

Man I hope I can appease you with that this weekend. Probably monday before I get pics up, but I'm gonna spend all tomorrow afternoon and evening doing some finish wiring in the car and then this weekend will work on getting the amp rack finished and wired up. Keep your fingers crossed!


----------



## scooter99

Ok I ordered my new oem dash kit, radio brackets, center console replacement, and a couple other things.


----------



## kritiostodd

scooter99 said:


> blah blah blah...There's something by the 20th I wanna be done by! So wish me luck. blah blah blah


I know what that is!  Wish I could make it, but I'll probably be out of town that day. Good luck!


----------



## scooter99

Yep, I'm not sure if I'm gonna be in it or not but I'm at least going to check it out. It'd be nice if I was ready by then and that's the plan but I'm not sure that everything will be up and running enough for me to be in. I'll know more after this weekend!


----------



## IBcivic

i think you will like the oem dash piece the best. i hated my metra piece after seeing that asian market civics come standard, with single din alpines[forgot which model exactly] , using this double din piece.


----------



## scooter99

If nothing else I simply like the thought of it matching everything else. The more I look at the metra kit the more it pisses me off how, off, it really looks. My brother was in the car last night as said it looked fine, BUT WHAT THE HELL DOES HE KNOW!!!! Kidding of course. He's only seen that one. So nothing to compare to. The other one should, I say should, be here next week. Simple switch out I'm sure! 

Ok I'm out to the garage for some serious work! Late start but that's ok, time with the family is well worth it!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so, just cause I'm sitting here waiting for my wife to get out of the shower so I can go in the garage, girls are up and don't wanna leave them alone in the house. I think I'm going to, at some point, do some Carbon Fiber Vinyl work inside the car. I'm looking at the trim pieces, or some accent pieces, like doors, shifter surround, stuff like that. Nothing out of the park worth, but I think that and combined with the suede colors will be hot! I'm still undecided on the suede colors. I really liked the graphite with the black, but I also really like the graphite with the grey. I'm leaning towards the graphite and black because I think the cf trims will pop with those two colors. Thoughts? 

Again this is not something I'm doing right now, I'm just looking into things while I'm waiting. The cosmetic stuff has taken a back seat to the audio. These next two weekends are going to dictate if I get finished or not. So far it's not looking great. Wanted to be out by 800 working in the garage. Here it is 945 and still not out! Oh well. 

I could use some thoughts on this though. Thanks!


----------



## IBcivic

hey!!! i was thinking of doint the 2-tone black/charcoal theme too...lol just subtle contrasts...i love it!!!


----------



## scooter99

Yea I get all excited when I invision it. I'm making great progress today. Had to break to come make dinner for the kids so the wifey could go to the grocery store. I'll get back at it later. 

Had some very exciting discoveries as well!! WOOTWOOO!


----------



## scooter99

Ok well had a change of plans today. My youngest daughter is sick this morning and we're taking her to the doctor in the hopes that it's not pnumonea. So not sure when and what time I'll get to work on the car, so that's a little setback but if I have to stay home tomorrow then I'll be able to make up time tomorrow as well. 

Please keep positive thoughts our way that it's nothing serious with my daughter. 

I'll keep everyone posted.


----------



## IBcivic

get well wishes from up here


----------



## scooter99

Thank you.


----------



## bassfromspace

scooter99 said:


> Ok well had a change of plans today. My youngest daughter is sick this morning and we're taking her to the doctor in the hopes that it's not pnumonea. So not sure when and what time I'll get to work on the car, so that's a little setback but if I have to stay home tomorrow then I'll be able to make up time tomorrow as well.
> 
> Please keep positive thoughts our way that it's nothing serious with my daughter.
> 
> I'll keep everyone posted.


She'll be good man.


----------



## scooter99

So we have some down time before we have to leave for the dr appointment, so I thought I'd take some time to post up some pictures. 

Here's a quick one that's not audio related, but I thought I'd post it anyway. I debadged my car, well sort of. I removed the civic emblem, and tried to do that "H" emblem, but it's not that easy. They have a two prong piece on the back that leaves two holes in the trunk. UGLY. So that went back on. Gonna try and find something different to do there. 

Tools. Heat Gun, dental floss.


Most important tool, 5 year old that just wants to help. "Daddy can I help you?" How can you say no to that? 


Before.


Helper.


After.


Now onto the audio stuff.
So my first thing I wanted to get done today was to see if I could get the Optical cable to work. So the XDV-P6 saw power for the first time ever! WOOTWOOT!

The proof.


IT WORKS!!!!!


So I installed it! 
In the head unit space ready to be connected.


BTW, while I had this out, I checked the switch on the 800PRS to make sure it was on normal mode, and it was. But I feel better not wondering and not knowing. Just thought I'd update that.

So I installed the optical cable in the best way I thought possible without putting any sharp corners in it. Here's what I did. 


This is the sharpest turn.


----------



## scooter99

Then I ran it down the side under the trim pieces where it would be protected.




In the back with the rest of the wires for the Bit One. I also cut all the zip ties on these lines and re did them to be a little cleaner. 


Also cleaned up the end whips where the Bit One is going to reside.


Next was getting the components under the driver seat set up and wires ran.












That's all for now I'll post more later. Out of time!


----------



## IBcivic

i wish i had known about the dental floss trick , when i removed the civic emblem on mine.
if you remove the ''H", you can kiss reliability goodbye.
this reminds me of something funny i saw at a gas station.... an older gen jetta had an ''H'' emblem on the trunk lid...so i asked the kid...wtf was that all about.... so the kid answers, ever since i've gone to volkswagon, i've been in the shop every other month...i figured, the ''H'' would help drive the gremlins away...


----------



## kyheng

Looks like your optical cable is from Alpine? Anyway I'm scoring my optical cable also... But it cost me $90 which makes me have to think few times.... Is Lunar new year in a week's time and I run out of cash...


----------



## JayinMI

VolkwagEn...

ANd yeah, my first car was a '70 bug, and my dad had a winter beater '80 rabbit. Some of the worst cars I've ever seen for reliability. Then my (now ex) GF bought a '90ish Jetta...it had a ton of problems too...

To this day I will not even seriously consider a watercooled VW as daily transportation.

Lol about the "H" tho.

Jay


----------



## n_olympios

scooter99 said:


> Most important tool, 5 year old that just wants to help. "Daddy can I help you?" How can you say no to that?


Man, she's adorable! 

Hope the young one gets better soon.


----------



## godfathr

scooter99 said:


> So we have some down time before we have to leave for the dr appointment, so I thought I'd take some time to post up some pictures.
> 
> Here's a quick one that's not audio related, but I thought I'd post it anyway. I debadged my car, well sort of. I removed the civic emblem, and tried to do that "H" emblem, but it's not that easy. They have a two prong piece on the back that leaves two holes in the trunk. UGLY. So that went back on. Gonna try and find something different to do there.
> 
> Tools. Heat Gun, dental floss.
> 
> 
> Most important tool, 5 year old that just wants to help. "Daddy can I help you?" How can you say no to that?
> 
> 
> Before.
> 
> 
> Helper.
> 
> 
> After.
> 
> 
> Now onto the audio stuff.
> So my first thing I wanted to get done today was to see if I could get the Optical cable to work. So the XDV-P6 saw power for the first time ever! WOOTWOOT!
> 
> The proof.
> 
> 
> IT WORKS!!!!!
> 
> 
> So I installed it!
> In the head unit space ready to be connected.
> 
> 
> BTW, while I had this out, I checked the switch on the 800PRS to make sure it was on normal mode, and it was. But I feel better not wondering and not knowing. Just thought I'd update that.
> 
> So I installed the optical cable in the best way I thought possible without putting any sharp corners in it. Here's what I did.
> 
> 
> This is the sharpest turn.


He shoots...he scores! 
Glad to see the optical cable worked!
gf


----------



## scooter99

Thanks everyone for the positive thoughts. We just got home. Dr. said she has a virus that just settled in her nasal passages. Doesn't happen that often, normally it continues down to the kids lungs or resperatory system somewhere deep, but we've got some anit biotics and an inhailer to prevent that and the doctor thinks she should be fine within a couple days. That's a huge relief! 

As to the rest of the stuff, thanks everyone for comments. I'll post up the rest of the pics I have now, and then I'm off to the man cave for a couple hours, or an hour and a half, till the super bowl starts. Then I'll put the rest of it together tonight, or depending on if the game is a blow out or not! 

My own predictions, BTW, won't be unhappy abou either team winning. Gotta love the Saints story of overcomming adversity. Then there's the colts! How does go against Payton Manning!?! IMHO, and I'm a huge Joe Montana fan cause I'm a niner fan as well, but beyond that, I think when all is said and done, Payton will go down as one of the top 2 or 3 if not the best quarterback in NFL history. I say that because noone runs and manages the game and deals with the game and changes in the process of the game, with more cool and poise as Payton Manning. Maybe Brady is close but not like Manning! Anyway, my vote is GO COLTS, but I think it's gonna be a good game! 

Ok pics. Here they come!


----------



## scooter99

Still have to hook up the Ip-Bus lines. I'm also trying to see if there is a way to shorten these. I have all these lines that are like 12' long and I only need like 12" of them. Gonna see if I can pick up a cheap one or two and see if I can shorten them. That's another project for anther day. This is now. 

Next is the Passenger side. 

Here is what I'm doing with the fuse blocks. These are just regular blocks you can get at your local auto parts store. Like $5.00 a piece maybe. The difference is that these are made for a single power source split to 4 different ones. I need each to be a single isolated fuse, one in and one out per fuse. This is how I am going to do that. 



In the picture you see that there are two sets of connectors. The left side is a single 4 prong connector. This is how it looks out of the package. Under that I simply cut and separated the prongs to be single prongs. I'll solder the wires to these and insert them into the housing. On the right are single prongs that are the output. Simple enough. 

These are the connectors that I'm using to solder the wires to for the termination blocks. I could't find and straight solder one's so, I guess I have some work ahead of me. 


20 minutes later.


Now I start wiring! 


Neon block is done!




And that's where I'm at now. Gonna go try and finish this block. Then I'll move to the front block. 

I'm going in!!


----------



## scooter99

This was a question from my other site. Anyone care to comment on this?



mightygoose said:


> I'm not familiar with optical lines. I have a bitone too, you will have to tell me how it turns out with that deck as I may want to try to use optical in my car.
> 
> Bends affect the light in the fiber optic line?


You know what, I'm not sure. But it says on the package to make sure that bends on the cable do not exceed 25mm. So I don't know if I did that or not. Maybe someone else can enlighten me on this as well. But I just figured that sharp angles would be a bad bad deal!


----------



## JayinMI

If you're looking for shorter IP-bus cables, you might want to see if anyone wants to trade. IIRC, the old Pioneer iPod interface came with like 3 footers...might also check and see if the SIR-PIO1 (I think that's the number, it was a DEI-made Pioneer to Sirius receiver) might have come with short ones too....my SIR-ALP1 came with a short AI Net cable made by Monster Cable.
Or check the parts department at Pioneer. I know they made them in more reasonable lengths, might be easiest just to buy from them directly.
I just googled it and Crutchfield has a 4.9ft cable. Probably better than trying to shorten a shielded cable.

Here's the link:

Pioneer CD-IP150

Or check the part number on eBay.

Jay


----------



## JayinMI

scooter99 said:


> This was a question from my other site. Anyone care to comment on this?
> 
> 
> 
> You know what, I'm not sure. But it says on the package to make sure that bends on the cable do not exceed 25mm. So I don't know if I did that or not. Maybe someone else can enlighten me on this as well. But I just figured that sharp angles would be a bad bad deal!


I would guess that if you bend it too tight, it might break the fibers inside the cable and then it might not properly transmit or receive the signal.

Jay


----------



## scooter99

Thanks on both parts Jay! I just bought two of the shorites on ebay for 10.00 each. I figured that on the optical cable too btw, but wasn't for sure so I didn't want to say. 

Thanks!


----------



## JayinMI

I did a quick search and didn't really find any, but I found a ton of ip-bus to rca adapters. Glad you found some.

Jay


----------



## scooter99

Ok so I've got a ver busy day today. Got lots to do at my actual job, but I wanted to make sure to "feed the bears" if you will, and get my pictures up. Here they are. 

I continued wiring the under seat block. First I had to get the tails ready on the fuse block so they could be long enough. Here is that. 






Tidey them up a little bit.




Installed. I installed the wires coming from under the board also. Kind of hard to see, but it's in the second picture. It was a tight fit. 




Then the tedious task of wiring up everything else. 
Finished.


You can see the wires with the molex plug on it, and the rca cable sticking up. These are for the passenger side headrest monitor.


With the covers.


----------



## scooter99

Here's the overall view without covers of passenger side and driver side.


With covers.


Had to put the seats back in so I could drive it today, but before I did that, I wanted to put the lighting under them. 
Passenger side.




Molex plug for easy connect and disconnect.


Seat installed. As you can see there's plenty of clearence for the terminal block panel. And in thinking after i did the led's under the seats, that should light up the panels really well actually. But we'll see about that when I get them operable! 




Driver side.




And as sort of a teaser for a future project, Martin and I have been on the same page apparently. 


Like I said this is a future project. I'll have some bugs to work out and some planning to do for that, but that's not something I have time for now. 

So that's all for today. Progress was not as great as I'd liked it to be, due to the issues with my daughter yesterday, but that's the way it goes sometimes. I'm planning on finishing the front block this week, I'll pull it in and get it done. Then I have the 3 day weekend coming up to work on the trunk. 

Not sure I'm going to get done for the 20th but again, that's life, and my hobbies are hobbies, my daughters health is not a hobbie. 

Ok getting to work! Comments are welcome as always!


----------



## IBcivic

[/QUOTE]

And as sort of a teaser for a future project, Martin and I have been on the same page apparently. 






Ok getting to work! Comments are welcome as always![/QUOTE]
 X-CEPT , I AIN'T TEASING ..my mounting bracket is made and the holes/spaces have been filled


----------



## IBcivic

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/956337-post468.html


----------



## scooter99

Nice!


----------



## sydmonster

n_olympios said:


> Man, she's adorable!
> 
> Hope the young one gets better soon.


+1, cool when the little-ones start young!


----------



## scooter99

Oh it is nice when I can incorporate them into this. It gives me time with them doing something I love, and they just love to be with daddy and helping. So we both seem to win out on it! 

Update on my youngest. She's doing much better, about over whatever the virus was, and back to her bouncy normal self again fighting with her sister. Aahhh that's so nice to come home to after a long day at work...............NOT! Anyway, she's doing very well now and I just wanted to update everyone and say thank you for the positive thoughts and words. 

Now to the car. 

I've been thinking about some things and I'm going to start over! I'm kidding! I am however, going to make some adjustments. I have to start thinking about money, cause well I don't have any. So there are some things that are going to be unfinished looking. First thing that comes to mind is the rear corners for the decals and plexi. I'm going to go ahead and do the boxes and put in the plexi, but I don't have money right now for the decals so what I'm going to do is either put on the stickers I do have that I got with the components, or I'm going to just leave it a plexi window and add stuff later. 

I'm also still debaiting on what I want to do about the sun visor monitors. That's still up in the air. 

I've got some stuff still for sale on my for sale thread, but if people don't buy stuff I can't finish some of this stuff! 

That's the latest right now. I am going to still try and get in the garage tomorrow night and get that front terminal block done. That will get me closer to finished inside, but the biggest issues ly in the trunk. I have to get that done this weekend as well as some other stuff and I'm not sure, at this point, i'll be ready for the 20th. 

I'll update more as I can!


----------



## scooter99

Just out of curiosity, I'm sitting here at lunch and looking at upgrades etc for my car, and I'm wondering if this will do me any good for the audio portion of the vehicle. Seems as though it would really clean up the power etc. Any thoughts. 

Buddy Club BC04-RSCON Racing Spec Condenser Voltage Grounding Kit


----------



## scooter99

Ok so I was having some thoughts on finish stuff. Anyone know anything or have any insight on flocking?


----------



## scooter99

Ok so here are the future plans. I'm putting this out there for a couple reasons. I know that I have a crap load of work still left to do on this build. But I've already decided to redo my apillars, yes again, when all this is done for a while. Here is my plan.

I'm going to somehow rebuild the pillars using fiberglass. By that I mean I'm going to duplicate the pillars with fiberglass. In that I'm going to move the midrange and tweeter and build them into it. I have a couple of ideas on this. I'm actually using a combination of builds I've seen on here to get my effect. To finish it, I'm going to try using flocking. Hopefully, between now and then I'll get good at sewing suede, and I'll just use suede and like the rest of the car, however, I think with all the curves that I'm going to be facing, I think flocking is going to be easier and better for this. 

I'm also, at some point, going to take off my doors again, and either flock the bottoms of those, or again use the suede if I can learn to sew between now and then. 

That's all I've got for now I think. I'll get back with more later, if I think of it!!


----------



## IBcivic

flocking can give you excellent results, just don't use it where it gets touched or rubbed alot..it will wear of and then it looks like tchit.... flocking pillars is a really good solution, especially if you have alot of contouring to deal with


----------



## scooter99

Yea the only other places I'd really think about doing it, is if the "drc mod" works for you or not, then I'd do it there. But even there I'm thinking suede might work. I'm just concerned about fitting the trim pieces back on the dash. They're pretty tight as it is. Anyway it's a ways off before I even get to that point. I just thought I'd put it out there so I could go back and remember later, and to get some insight or ideas from others. Thanks!


----------



## ErinH

have you had music in this car at all? I mean, everything in your system running?


----------



## scooter99

Of course not! I'm not deviating from the plan. I'm just thinking future. I'm not liking the pillars at all right now. So i'm thinking future. I should be, if not extremely close, to up and running this weekend. I'm going to pull it in the garage tonight to finish the cabin wiring tonight. Tomorrow night I'm going to run the 1/0 ga conduit under the car and build the distro platform for the battery. Friday night I'll get the rear fill and rear deck finished and sealed up. Then starting Saturday, unless I need to work, I'll be finishing the trunk! So I should be running by the end of the 3 day weekend!


----------



## ErinH

I'm going to hold you to that...


----------



## scooter99

:2thumbsup::inout:


----------



## scooter99

Well I tried to work while I was home with my daughter, who is still sick btw. I worked on the rear fill pods and trying to get the rear sealed up. I failed on it. But it gives me a new idea I'm sure will work. About 99% sure. I'll post pics up later.


----------



## scooter99

Ok I've got another issue I'm not sure what to do about. I have my distribution block for the front, to split the 1/0 ga to the alternator and the 1/0 ga to the back. The block that I have only accepts 4 ga out. I can use a reducer, but I don't have any. Is it an issue to cut down the 1/0 ga to fit, and then solder it so it's more solid and stays together? Will I loose anything by doing that? Does it make sense what I'm talking about? Thanks!


----------



## IBcivic

i'd get a reducer. i think b-buy carries alpine reducers and they are relatively cheap.


----------



## IBcivic

or if there is enough meat on the block....bore out the hole.


----------



## scooter99

If I could bore out the metal I'd be good but there's not enough on the plastic to do it.


----------



## scooter99

Ok well I guess I won't be posting pictures. My memory card all of a sudden can't be read! I took it out of my camera, put it in my computer, then the pictures showed up. Tried to put them in my file on my computer to put them on photobucket, then all of a sudden it said error. I took it out, put it back in my camera and now it won't see it either. Sigh!!!


----------



## IBcivic

try formatting it


----------



## scooter99

How do I do that?


----------



## scooter99

Here's what I did get on before there was an error. 

Of course no build pics of it, but it's basically a box with a circle on top of it to fit in the speaker hole. 





I'm going to go back with a circle look instead of the box. The reason the wall wouldn't fit was because there's an indentation that I did not account for. So after I built the box and covered it, I found this out. If it was square, meaning straight not turned to fit, it wouldn't be a problem. So I've got it figured out, just have to do it now.


----------



## scooter99

Thanks. That did it. How the hell does that just happen? That would've sucked had I had a ton of pictures on it, cause I lost em all to reformat it. I only had 6 on there. But imagine if I'd have been building all day long. Oh that thing would've sailed through the neighborhood!


----------



## IBcivic

bwahahaha. i would of fired up the torch


----------



## IBcivic

you may have forgotten to properly eject it from your computer or yanked out of the camera with the power still on...just a theory


----------



## scooter99

Most likely!


----------



## kyheng

^Have you try recovery softwares? It may help to recover back your lost photos.....


----------



## n_olympios

Now that he's formatted it, it's more unlikely. Especially if it wasn't a quick format.


----------



## kyheng

^Nope, not that right basicly.... When you format it, it is sort of rearranging the datas inside the media. I got such software and it do helps me alot when I have a corrupted harddisk.
For me, what is more important than datas we collected over time? A harddisk may only cost you some $100, but the datas that you created is a gem for you.


----------



## n_olympios

What you say is correct when it involves hard disks. Not the same with memory cards though.


----------



## kyheng

Tried once on pendrive and it works.


----------



## scooter99

Ok well I managed to get some work done tonight. Not much but for me it's a big deal. I should be able to button up the cab completely, with exception of needing to deal with behind the back seat, tomorrow night. Tonight I did the wiring for the front terminal block. Take a look!

Instead of making hundreds of little jumpers, which take an unbelievable amount of time, I decided to use pre made jumpers I got at Fry's electronics. 


Top row wired up, these are mostly the main runs that feed the rest of the wires, on the bottom.


The bottom done!
This pictures kinda crappy.


But here it is with the carpet put back and ready for the center console to cover it up.


My only issue really that I'm not overly pleased with is how unorganized the wires look where they bunch up at the left side. But I'm not gonna worry about that much. 

That's all for tonight!


----------



## scooter99

I've got a question. Is there a fuse out there, that's not a fuse necessarily. Like an AFS fuse that is just basically a filler. Reason I ask is because I found out today I need another distro block for the battery. Long story I'll explain when I post pictures. But I want to get the same distro block that's up there, I just don't want a fuse in them. Don't know if that makes since.


----------



## IBcivic

mmmm....why not just use a fuse?


----------



## scooter99

Ok so here's what I've found out by looking in the owner guide. The interior fuse box is drawing, or can potentially draw, about 375 amps according to adding up all the fuses. And the fuse box under the hood is drawing or potentially drawing 597.5 amps. That's a lot. Can anyone here help me with the starter. I'm not seeing a fuse for the starter in either box unless of course I'm not looking at it correctly. What should that be fused at? 

I've got pictures uploading and will be posting sometime today! Stay tuned.


----------



## IBcivic

starters are not fused, they are hard wired straight to a solenoid that is fed directly from the battery.


----------



## scooter99

Ok. Well then should I just use a high amp fuse or can I test it in some way to figure out what it pulls, or do you have any other suggestions?


----------



## IBcivic

correct me if i am wrong, but are you thinking of running your starter through the distro-block? if so i don't think any fuses available could handle the starter load. the surge the starter produces is enormous.


----------



## scooter99

I'VE GOT IT! I DON'T KNOW WHY I DIDN'T THINK OF THIS BEFORE!! I'll use the distro block, like the one I'm already using. I'll run a 4 ga line from the positive battery terminal, since there's only one, and that will power the db. Then I'll make 2 shorty 4 ga "fillers", that will go where the fuses normally go, but in this case these lines don't need to be fused. I'll label them for identification purposes as I did the other db. Then I get my db that matches and I split my lines the way they need to be, and in the end everything looks neat and tidy! WOOHOO!!!


----------



## IBcivic

you sound like a man, with a plan


----------



## scooter99

Ok so this has nothing to do with car audio or this build but I wanted to showcase my creation for valentines day for my wife. I'm pretty proud of it. She's very happy with it and was very surprsed with it. 

I'm not going to diy it like i would with car stuff, I think it's pretty self explanitory by the pictures. If you have any questions, just ask. I'll do this and then back to the audio build!


----------



## scooter99




----------



## scooter99

2nd coat








I changed the picture from the original.








And that's it. Like I said i was happy with it and so was my wife, so on a budget, and a tight one at that, this was somethind I was able to do for about 10.00 for paint. I had all the other stuff. 

Ok onto the audio!


----------



## IBcivic

it's true value is in the the thought,the time, the effort that was put into it. you're obviously a motivated family guy. it's the little things that you do for your loved ones, that count the most.


----------



## scooter99

Ok the pictures are probably going to be mixmatched here. I started project while I was doing the heart project so that I could stay busy while it dried etc. 

First is the visor monitors. I had to make a panel for these to mount to. I think I talked about that here somewhere. Here's what I did. Paper template, cardboard cut out, and then 1/2" mdf rounded on the back side.





We just bought 2 new booster seats for our 5 year old, so cardboard is plentiful! 














Painted them primer grey so when they get covered there are no issues of wood showing through.


----------



## scooter99

Next it was time to address the battery and things around it. I decided to redo the wiring in the engin bay for the most part. Replaced a few ugly coverd ones, as well as the cleaned things up a bit. Had to eliminate the old distro block, and had to figure out how to mount the new one etc. Lots of thought went into this design as well as having to redo some of it half way through. There are a few things that need to change and I'll get to that when I'm done with this section. Onto pics! 

Old stuff to be taken out.




Clean Slate, everything stripped.


Start of the new!

I made a paper template of the battery and where it sat as well as everything around it. I wanted the focus to be on the components that are being used not the crap and ugliness under or around it. 





For the actual plate I used a black cutting board from Ikea I got for like $3.00. I'm not sure this will stay, well I know it won't cause I'll have to do it over again, but we'll see how it holds up to the heat!


Bored out the distro blocks 4 ga outputs to fit 1 ga cable. 


Because this plate is also acting as a strap for the battery to hold it, I had to drill holes for the treaded posts to go through. This caused a problem for the wires, because of clearance. I didn't want them sitting right on top of the posts and cutting a hole in the POWER wire, this would be bad! So I built a platform out of the same cutting board material for the distro block.


----------



## scooter99

Next i laid out where the components would go and where the cables would pass through. 





Riser attached to the plate. Also used threaded inserts to attach the db with. 





DB installed






Components in place.



Next I had to run the power cable and ground cable under the car. To make it easier on myself, I jacked up the car and used jack stands, then removed both wheels. I stripped everything that I thought would be in my way and mapped out a plan of attack. 


Started in the trunk, and considering where the db is in the back, this is where i decided to punch through the floor. Reason I did it hear also is becasue it's under the rear bumper, so its back and out of the way. For the holes I used a cheap hole saw for metal.


----------



## scooter99

Under side view. I also had to cut out a little of the lip in front of these holes on the underside, because the 90 degree waterproof couplers I bought weren't sitting correctly because of that lip. So I took a little off with my trusty dremel!! 




This is the spot where I decided to attach the ground cable. 


I ground all the crap off of it with my dremel and then drilled a hole and tapped it. 






After that was done, i put the cable in the elbow, and then the carlon flex.


In the trunk


From under side.


----------



## scooter99

Then I attached it using some thread lock goo and a chrome screw with a washer on top. 




Used some black silicone, had it laying around, and filled the end so that no water or moisture or anything else would get in there.


I used some plastic paint, the kind you dip tool ends in for the handles, that I again had laying around to cover it up. 


Then the power cable. 




I used an old trick I learned when i was running cables for a telecom company. Used some string I had laying around and my wife actually helped me with this one. I had her pull the string while I fed the cable through. Thanks hon! 




Both cables ran through.


Then i started running the flex tubing under the car.


----------



## scooter99




----------



## scooter99

Now the new engine bay cables.


Techflexed for added SQ.......LOL


Now here's where the snafu happened. I had these two 4 ga wires that I ran for the fuse box under the hood, and the starter. I forgot about these when i was ordering equipment for the build. So I thought I'd come up with a solution. This failed the original, and the second I don't like at all, but it will get me by until I get the new db. 

I used ring connectors that I soldered on and then heatshrink and techflex.




First attempt at a solution. Stip metal.


----------



## IBcivic

i used my son to pull mine through....i had to bribe him to get him to pause his x-box live game.


----------



## scooter99

Made some side mounts. Now I wish I han't have sold the other ones. Oh well.






That didn't work because it sat too high up for the threaded rods on the side. Also just didn't seat well under the terminals. 

So I decided to continue on and figure out what to do about it. 
I moved on to the rest of it, to give my brain a break.

This is the new ground cable attached with the older one, as well as the power cable coming through the side. 


And this is what it looks like put together. The temporary solution was to cut off part of the side of the plate and attach the cables via the ring connectors under the terminal. You can see that on the right. However I don't like this because I think it takes away from the looks of everything. I think everything is nice and neat and that throws it off. Theres one other thing that I, personally, don't like and is out of place, but I'll see if anyone can figure out what that is before I address it. 




So what I'm going to do now, is order a second db the same as the first one there. I'm going to look for a bigger cutting board, so I can cover the whole battery as well as thicker. Then I'll put new longer rods in because these barely grabbed. With the second db, I'll place it next to the other one, that way it look centered and together. 

New alternator cable for the Big 3.




Connected. 


Next I had to remake the rear fill pods. Roto zip with a cirlce jig. Just found this and wished I had it before. Oh well.


----------



## scooter99

Second pod




Installed


----------



## scooter99

And both from trunk.


That's all I did. Tonight I'm going to recover the IB wall and get the subs installed and wired up.


----------



## scooter99

amitaF said:


> i used my son to pull mine through....i had to bribe him to get him to pause his x-box live game.


That's about right, I had to wait for my wife to stop texting!


----------



## scooter99

DELIVERY!!! Got my new center console pocket piece in today, as well as the lower driver trim and the brackets for the DD beezle. Now I have an issue however, and I'll go back through here and look, but it says I ordered the beezle a while ago and it was delivered but I don't recall getting it. I'll have to check when I get home, but if not, HOUSTON WE HAVE A PROBLEM!!!!


----------



## scooter99

scooter99 said:


> Just out of curiosity, I'm sitting here at lunch and looking at upgrades etc for my car, and I'm wondering if this will do me any good for the audio portion of the vehicle. Seems as though it would really clean up the power etc. Any thoughts.
> 
> Buddy Club BC04-RSCON Racing Spec Condenser Voltage Grounding Kit



Hey I never got any feedback on this thing. Does anyone know anything about it?


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## IBcivic

^^smoke n mirrors gizmo


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## IBcivic

you mean, you have 2 honda bezels and the metra unit?


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## scooter99

No. I bought a trim for under the driver side, under the steering wheel. I don't know if I have the bezel or not. gotta look when I get home. I already have them working on the aux door that they didn't sent me so I'll hit em with this too if I don't have it.


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## scooter99

Ok so I made HUGE progress tonight, at least by my book. I got the subs in and the wall in and the rear fill speaker wire ran. Then insulated the hell out of the gaps at the front side and rear side of the wall. Here are the pics. 

Rear fill speaker wire. Techflexed, color coded, heat shrunk. 












Then I started recovering the box. 






Now it was time to break out the subs!


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## scooter99

And they've finally made it home! Welcome home boys!!!


Drilled the hole for the Neutric Quick Disconnect. 




And it's resting in place here.


Installed the terminal block and the sub wires. 


Soldered connections, as always! 






Installed.


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## scooter99

More wiring.






Finished.


Ran the rear fill cables to the back.


Subs and wall are officially installed!! 




As you can see here, I did not hold back on the insulation at all!






That's it tonight. I'm going to try, tomorrow night, to get the trunk started. Maybe even do some wiring. We'll see. That's all for me tonight, good night everyone!


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## kyheng

^You no need VS kind of gadgets, basicly....


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## IBcivic

epper:epper:epper:


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## scooter99

kyheng said:


> ^You no need VS kind of gadgets, basicly....


Sorry bro, don't understand. Can you explain please?


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## scooter99

amitaF said:


> epper:epper:epper:



My feeling exactly! I was going to try and do some more tonight but I may not. I need to get some better sleep. Kind of hard to drive to work in the morning with eyes partially shut! :laugh: But I'll play it by ear!


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## kyheng

With $139.95, I can get another lenght of 1/0AWG power cable(~41ft), from rear back to battery which around 16ft and still have extras(if you are using Knu's power cables). With that extra, you can happily make another good ground points on the engine.

Talk about Stabilizing voltage spikes, how bad is you car's voltage spike now? If <1V, why worry? If >1V, such gadget won't help you, it only helps you to ignore the actual problem which will cause more damage later on. 

Talk about fuel economy, how much will it help? 1 gallon of petrol gives you another 20 or 30 miles? Keyword on getting good fuel economy, regular service for your car.

Normally the original grounding point is enough for normal applications, it won't enough to cater for your high powered system. So by adding another run of power cable, atleast what your sound system using do have a proper return back to battery. My car already >6 years and I never add any such "junk" but I got no problem at all.


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## scooter99

Ok. I get it. I'm not going to get it, as far as I know, I was just trying to find out if anyone had used it before or could tell me anything about it. Thanks btw. I don't know what my voltage spikes are. TBH I don't know how to measure that! But I've got plenty of cable if I need to do another run to the front!


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## kyheng

Well, getting a voltmeter or multimeter will be good. Best point to test is your battery terminals. Or your HU's voltage display(if not mistaken it has).
The intial cold start, depending to your battery's health condition, it may go down to as low as 10V, but will not be long. So best way to safeguard your invesments on audio, it is good that you turn them on after the engine starts.


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## scooter99

Ok I'll try that thanks!


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## scooter99

So I went to the Autorama here in sac yesterday. Met Vince, and Scott there and got to see some really nice cars. IN the middle of it all, Scott introduced me to one of the Audison and Hertz reps. Really cool guy. I inquired about some ML subs and if they could run IB. We're gonna see what's going on with that. Possible equipment change in the future if it's possible. But that would be very distant future. Those subs will cost, if I'm seeing correctly, about what I paid for most of my equipment combined for 2 of them. I'd stay with the 15" so I could hopefully just have to do a sub change not a rebuild. Very good day though, came away with very positive thoughts and information. I'm going out to work on my car now. I've gotta get this thing done!!


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## IBcivic

crap, i should of landed in sac, instead of s-d, then


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## kyheng

Well, basicly there's alot of subs that can go IB, but because of today's competetion standards has change. Manufacturers prefer to go for sealed or ported enclosure. Because sealed and IB you need EQ to boost/cut certain frequencies. But then if you have the time to play around with Bassbox Pro, WinISD or Boxism(a German software), for some subs, you may able to see they sound better with a bigger enclosure.

On the side note..... I'm screwed today!!!! My DEQ-P9's dead channel's problem identified. A failed IC, on more specific, it is IC501, which cost me $30 to order it....


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## scooter99

Ok well it's midnight here and I'm gonna go ahead and post anyway, because I'm gonna have a horrible day tomorrow at work and most likely won't have time. See what I do for you guys!! :laugh:

So I really didn't have much time to work on the car this weekend. Saturday was spent at the autorama car show, and that was a great experience. Listened to some amazing vehicles, and saw some amazing vehicles as well. Also met some really cool people. SO anyway, when I got home I ended up spending the rest of the evening with the kids and my wife for some much needed family time. 

Today was really no different. I was going to work on the car all day, but decided to go with my family to watch my sister and brother in law race motocross. In the rain!! So we got home around 230 and this is what I got done this afternoon and today! 

If you will recall the last time I left off, I had ran the wireing for the rear fill and put the IB wall back in. Today I finished running the wires for the rear fill and installed the rear fill. 













Driver Side installed


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## scooter99

Next I started finishing the IB wall interior. 








Then the bottom.


Got the LED's in. They look way better in person then they do in the pictures.


Even got the thumbs up from my youngest daughter!!! That's what really counts right!!


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## scooter99

With that done, I decided to put the interior back together. Now I remember having some issues before with the rear deck tray and rattleing. I had stuck some paper towles back there previously when I was running my other system and that seemed to help. Well it looked tacky of course. SO I decided to take a different approach this time. I used some weather stripping I found at home depot and put it on the end that wedges up to the window. Since that seems to be where the rattling comes from. 



Side view. It's about 3/8" thick, but very soft and spongey!! 


Heres the view of where I put it. 


I got my new grill covers in for the rear about a month ago. Of course they've been sitting in a box waiting for this particular day! Now I decided, I wasn't sure if it was going to hit or not, so I cut the lip off the bottom side of the grills.





Rear tray is in!







Rear seat back in. This actually looks better than I thought. A few things need to be addressed but nothing major! I'm very happy with it overall. 


And lastly, this is what the sub structure for the trunk looks like. I have some stuff to do in here, obviously as well!


So that's it for now. All the interior trims are back in for now. I put the passenger side visor back up for now, so I could get the Apillars in. I say that because I had to run wires for the visor, and since I'm not ready for all that, I decided to get the oem visor back in, until I decide what I'm going to do about that situation. Not decided yet, even though I cut the boards already to mount them. Gonna step back and do some thinking about that one. 

Also I did have some issues with the lower trims and going back on. I had a feeling I might because I raised the floor basically with the foam I put on. I got most of them on ok, but the rear panels are going to need to be addressed. I don't want any potential for rattling or noise. 

My plan is to work on this thing all week, starting with wiring the trunk tomorrow night. I'm going to have to lay down a sheet of 1/4" mdf I think, cause there are some issues with the pieces and height. But I'll address that tomorrow. 

That's all for now, I'm heading to bed. I can't wait to hear comments and can't wait to finish out the week! Maybe this weekend I can start tuning this thing and actually have sound! 

BTW, I'm waiting for a few things in the mail this week, like the dash kit, and some other stuff. Maybe things will just happen to fall into place for me this week!! Yeah right!!! GOODNIGHT!


----------



## angelspeedfreak

Starting to go through withdrawls here.... got new updates for us?


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## scooter99

Well let me update you guys on what's going on then. I've had money issues, which is going to contradict what I'm about to say, but I've had some stuff going on in which i've needed money to get. Little things, but little things are huge when you have a money shortage. 

First thing, I went out to start on my trunk and realized that there were fitment issues. Because i have nothing on the floor, and wires running on top of it, my amp rack isn't sitting flush and I'm having issues with things lining up. Solution, a 1/4" sheet of mdf will do the trick. Problem, I have none and I need some, and I have no money. So on that I've been waiting till this weekend when I get paid to take care of that. 

Then I decided to take care of my headrest monitors. I got an idea and here it is. I took a piece of mdf and made swiss cheese out of it drilling 5/8" holes in it. Then I ziptied it to the frame of the headrest iside the original cut out. I tightened the bottom 2 ties, and left the top two loose. Then I took some spray foam insulation and started spraying it into the holes. The reason I left the top two loose is because I needed it to sit up a little bit to level out the screen. Good thought right? Worked perfectly, and in fact I'm extremely proud of it. Problem, I used 5/8" MDF and now the screen sits out of the headrest about 1/8" to 3/16". So now I need to take that board out, and put in a smaller piece. Solution, I'll use the same 1/4" mdf I buy for the trunk. This should give me plenty of head room to screw in the shroud for the monitor, and make it nice and tight to the material. This will get me by until I get enough money for the interior re upholstery. 

I'm waiting for some parts. I'm waiting for the DRC frame Martin is sending me for the Bit One DRC so I can do my center console control panel. I don't want to cut it and then realize it doesn't fit and have to cut it again. Should be here soon, I'm hoping. Martin? 

Next I'm waiting on the OEM dash bezel to get here. Thought it would be here by now, so I'm guessing any day now. Then I can wire up the dash and be done with it. 

Lastly, and this is the part that's going to contradict the no money thing, is that I was going to buy, or my parents were going to buy, the Viper 5902 for me from Vince. Well they have some money issues as well, partially cause they just bought a Lexus LS460. Must be nice! Well that didn't happen and I have serious trust issues with my stock alarm. So I emptied my paypal account, mostly, and bought a Zenesis ZN502AS alarm, and the modules to go with it. They're slowly trickling in, but I figured that since I had the dash exposed and I'm still working on the car this was the best time to do it. 

That takes me to the stuff I've been doing all week. I've been doing one of my diagrams to install it and get things ready so I have something to go off of when I do try and tackle this project. 

So that's what I've been doing. I'm trying to get things done, but as everyone know's, there are always snags it seems like. 

I'll get most of it done this weekend. I'll update with pics when I get them. Sorry for the withdrawls, I'm going through em too, but I'll get everyone their fix when I get mine!


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## scooter99

OH BABY IT'S LIKE CHRISTMAS ALL OVER AGAIN!!!! 

Just got my Dash piece, the alarm, the bypass, and modules all within like 15 minutes! Progress here we come! Just talked to martin and I should have that frame soon. Things are looking up!!


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## angelspeedfreak

scooter99 said:


> ..... I've had money issues.......


Money? what the hell is that? 

Keep your head up, we all go through it. sounds like you are getting real close now.


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## IBcivic

airmail..... it's on it's way


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## scooter99

angelspeedfreak said:


> Money? what the hell is that?
> 
> Keep your head up, we all go through it. sounds like you are getting real close now.


Thank you very much for the positive words. Yes I am close. I found, bonus, some 3/8" partical board in my trailer that I used for another job I was working on, remodeling a bathroom. I figured for no money, that will have to do. SO I got the bottom panel cut for the amp rack, fits nicely and works exactly as I'd planned. Also got the new screen boards cut for the head rests. Gonn go tear out the old ones now and put these in. 

I'm going to do some major work this weekend! Can't wait. Should be ready for tuning by the end of the weekend, I HOPE!!

Thanks Martin!


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## scooter99

Ok so I'm sitting here getting my wife's oil changed so I thought I'd give a little update. 

Last night I took the head unit and dvd player out of the metra kit and put it in the oem dash kit I finally got in.  wow what a difference! I love this kit so much more. But on the other hand now I have a spare I don't care about cutting up if I decide to do the dash mod like martin! So that's ready to go in. 

When I got home last night I did a couple of things. First I got some new spray paint a while ago that's a lot closer to the oem color for the visor monitors. Got those sprayed last night and let me say, its a great look as far as I'm concerned. Much much better than what I had on it. Then, as I let those dy, I decided to get the headrests done. So the monitors are in. Not extremely happy with the look but it'll do until I can do the upholstery change. 

Now to today. If you will recall my usb port modification, I screwed up the door on it by useing the super glue. Well I had issues with the parts place online and so I thought while I was here at the dealership I'd ask if they could find one or whatever. So they say sure we can get it in a day. Great! Then he proceeded to tell me it would cost me 22.00 for the part. So I held off. Well while I was sitting here just now, I started playing with it and took the spring off of it, and now it works pretty damn well. It is pretty tight in there so the spring isn't needed for now and it closes really close to flush so I'm good with that. Well for 22.00 I can live with it anyway. So now when I get home I'll paint it that same color I used for the visor monitors. 

Back to the monitors. I need some advice or suggestions real quick. I made the board to mount in the visor positions to avoid the issues of mounting. Well I'm having issues with what I should cover it with. Well not so much what I should cover it with cause I'm thinking suede, but what color. I was thinking black because that's what color I'm going to change out the headliner to at some point. But my other thought about black is that the color on the visors vs the headliner is not an exact match and I know that. The black might just give me enough break between the two that you may never be able to tell a color difference. Or should I tyry and match the headliner as close as I can and risk there being three different colors up there?

That's all for now. My wife's car is ready! Time to go home and work!!!!!


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## IBcivic

use the same fabric on both the visors and headliner,problem solved.


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## scooter99

I'll use the black suede then and call it a day! 

BTW, HUGE HUGE DAY TODAY!!! Lots done, and very happy with the progress. Lots of pictures to get posted on monday!


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## kyheng

^When heard of this, I better go start my work... My house narrowband connection sucks.....


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## scooter99

Well it's F&*@ing late, and I just finished making my rca's, but I had to upload some pictures. I'm not posting yet but I didn't want it to take forever to upload tomorrow night. To give you an idea, I started a while ago, and I'm on picture 42 of 108! And I still have another day of work! I'm hoping to get the trunk up and running tomorrow. I have a slight set back I have to deal with, but nothing major. I'll take care of it tomorrow. Goodnight all!


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## scooter99

Well here's the deal! I'm happy and sad and frustrated all at the same time. I thought for sure I was going to be up and running tonight and that's just not gonna happen. Happy, because I got a ton done this weekend as well as got some stuff made that came together really easily, and just made really good progress albeit not as good as I'd hoped it would have been. Sad, because I really thought I was going be pretty close to done and ready for tuning this week or so, and that ship has come and sailed! Frustrated for a couple of reasons. First I had a pretty large setback today which is going to cause me to strip a couple of sections of my amp rack and re cover them. But mostly frustrated cause while I really enjoy working on my car and doing this stuff, I WANT SOUND BACK IN MY CAR!!! There's really nothing more frustrating than knowing you have thousands of dollars of equipment going into your car and you're listening to 30.00 earbuds on your ipod so you can have some sort of sound! 

Anyway, I uploaded all my pictures but I'm pretty tired so I'm going to bed. I'll work on posting the 140, or something like that, pictures tomorrow sometime. 

Goodnight all!

EDIT - BTW: I've gotten a lot of feedback on my diagram for the alarm and everything I'm getting says go for it basically. There are a couple of changes to make but they're minor things. So I'm going to be doing that as well soon! So look out for that too in the near future!


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## scooter99

Ok so here we go again! Time for the updates. I did lots of stuff this weekend and at the same time was faced with some small issues that I need to take care of. There are lots of pictures so please forgive me for not detailing them all. If you have any questions feel free to ask away! 

Here we go. 

So the other day I told you all about the headrests and what I did with them. Well I used 5/8" mdf as a backer board to screw the monitor frames to. However, that proved to be too thick and had to use something smaller. I went to a 3/8" partical board, which I had laying around but didn't remember, and that made for a good fit for now. I still am going to rebuild the headrests and re cover them, but for now I think this will work. 

This is the original 5/8" backer plan. Used zip ties to hold it in place, drilled holes, and sprayed in insulation behind so it would hold it as well as swell to give me a good angle. That's what the zip ties did was stop it from comming to far forward. 


This is what it looked like with the frame in. Sits out too far for my taste. 




So I then ripped those out, and cut the new baffles out of the 3/8" particle. 




The black stuff is some black sylicone that I had laying around from another job I was doing. I used that to stick the 3/8" backers in. 


Backers are in!




Now it's time to put the babies in!!


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## scooter99

Aren't they just adorable!!! Look, twins!!


Much better fit as far as I'm concerned. They're still out of proportion for these headrests, and I'll rebuild them eventually but that's later down the road! Just trying to get finished at the moment. 


The bottom is still an issue, but it's not real noticeable when it's installed. It actually sits pretty close to the seat top anyway, so it's ok for now, I can live with it.


So that was thursday night. Now we move on to friday night. I didn't actually get much done on friday night cause my wife and I went on a much needed date! We went to the movies and saw "The Book of Eli"! Let me just say, I have yet to see a bad Denzel Washington movie! Wow!! I recommend it! Great movie! 

So like I said before, I got my dash piece last week, so when we got home I grabbed the other one out of the car, and the new one and parts and changed them out! Wow what a difference!!! I will have no hesitation cutting the Metra Kit up when the time comes! So here we go with that one!

Metra Kit.


Metra and OEM next to each other! 


The change!!! If you notice, I also made the change of swapping the units top to bottom. After looking at it the other way for a while I decided it just looked out of place. So now I'm going to this and with it being in the car for a couple days now, even though I've not been driving it, it just looks better and smoother this way! 


I also had the old Scosche trim that I kept when I sent that one to Martin. He was just cutting it up and I figured it would come in handy, and it did. The issue here was that with it not being from this kit, it just didn't have anything to hold onto with this oem kit. So I had to come up with something to make it stay, and at the same time make it able to come out in case I needed to remove anything etc. So I took some electrical tape and just simply wrapped it a couple times and pressure fitted it in the area. It works perfectly and the tape is not noticable at all. The other issue I had was that there are two tabs on the top behind the kit that light shined through. Now while I know that when it's installed you won't be able to see light, or shouldn't be able to, but I didn't want to take that chance so I just put a piece of electrical tape over that as well.


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## scooter99

Next are the visor monitors. I had them painted a darker color and the more I looked the more off it looked. So I took in a piece of trim to the local Napa auto parts, and compared to what they had and then repainted the frames. The color is much closer to oem, but after looking at it a while and examining it, I don't really like it at all. Painted I mean. I think down the road I'm going to get an extra pair of oem visors, and I'm going to just take out the monitors and buttons from these and frame them into the oem visors and cover them in suede to match the interior. I have some ideas on it, but I'm putting that on the back burner for now. These will be installed shortly, but I didn't get to that this weekend. 








The I cut and primed the boards to prep for covering. I decided, with some help, to cover them in black suede. I was going to cover them in suede originally but I wasn't sure what color so I went with black after suggestions and considerations. 










Going to put the visor monitors back together tonight and I'll get shots of them on the boards.


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## scooter99

Next I started working on the amp rack. I decided that there was too much wood showing. Not that it'll be seen, because there's going to be a top board covering all that. Then there will be cutouts that only show each cubby, not where the wires are going to be running. However i got to thinking about it and figured that if there was wood showing with wires on it, there would be potential for noise and wires hitting the wood and making rattling. So to avoid that possibility I decided to cover that with the gray carpet that I'm using for everything else. Nice and thick and I had plenty of it as well. So here we go with those pics. 












This is the distribution block side.


Bit One side




Back piece.


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## scooter99

Then the other tight I cut out some of the 3/8" ply to make a base panel for the amp rack to sit on. This made everything level and sitting nicely. But I had the same thought about this as I did with the others. So I covered it as well. This also makes for a nice reveal for the center rack, when it's lifted. 








Here you can see the reveal a little bit. 


Covered.


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## scooter99

Then I cut the side oem panels to fit around everything. I was originally going to recover them, but I decided to hold off on that at the moment. I still want to build my plexi glass frames and stuff in the cubbys of the panels, so I'll wait until I can do that to re cover them. To do it now would be a waste, and it looks decently close now, so I'm not worried aobut it at the moment.







Installed.




I am still going to put some carpet in under the spare tire in that well. This is what it looks like when you'll open the amp rack and I think it's just not going to look good at all. SO a little material will go a long way here. 


Next i did some placements of the amps and made some marks for the holes to be drilled. Got those done and realized that I should've done that before I covered it, but it's been so long since I've done a buld like this that I forgot about that. The stuff that was done here, is hideable, and that's why I'm not going to do anything about it. Al wires will be hidden under the amps so the holes in turn will be also. But now I know. I wasn't, however, as fortunate with the side Bit One panel. That had to be completely stripped and I'm going to use different suede to put in there. I most likely will use what I have left of the black, if I have enough left, or I'll use a lighter gray. I'll have to put it a side of this charcoal and see what looks best. 





Here is the Bit One Panel. This was the only picture i got of it. I got so frustrated I forgot to take more pics. I'll get those when I work on it more.


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## scooter99

So I had said the other day while I was waiting for my wifes car that I fixed my issues with the usb port I made. I painted it so it would match the rest of the area. 




Painted parts


Put together.


It opens but I have to close it cause the spring is not there anymore, but like I said before, it's worth the 22.00 for me to just close it when I need to! LOL


The area.


Connected.


Installed.






SHE'S A BEUTE CLARK!!!


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## scooter99

While I was messing with the amp placement I realized that I had to make my RCA's or I'ld have an issue with installation. So I stayed up until 2am on saturday night making my rac's. Here they are. 

I made 8 channels worth that turn into 10 channels. Here's how it goes:

*Bit One - Amplifier - Position and Driver * 
Channel 1 - LRx 6.9 Channel 1 - Left Tweeter
Channel 2 - LRx 6.9 Channel 2 - Right Tweeter
Channel 3 - LRx 6.9 Channel 3 - Left Mid Range
Channel 4 - LRx 6.9 Channel 4 - Right Mid Range
Channel 5 - LRx 4.1K Channel 1 - Left Mid Bass
Channel 6 - LRx 4.1K Channel 2 - Right Mid Bass
Channel 7 - LRx 6.9 Channel 5 & 6 - Left and Right Rear Fill
Channel 8 - LRx 4.1K Chanel 3 & 4 - Subs

Here they are.


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## scooter99

Here is one of the 2 single to dual channel rca's I made.


All of them.


So those, as you can see, are all labled on both ends, techflexed, and heat shrunk. They're ready to go in!

Next up comes the big big project. This is what I did for most of Saturday. I had to make some sort of holder for the DRC, the Ipod, and the switches. The more I thought about it the more ideas I got on it. So I started that and just ran with it. I love the way it turned out, with exception that the black looks of when finished. But that can be fixed! 

Here are the parts, center console piece, cubby piece, a sheet of ABS I got for .37 cents at Tap Plastics, and the components as well. 




First I took the cubby pocket and separated it from the console piece. This needed to be altered becasue I dont' have super powers and cant just reach through it. So I cut the bottom out of it.


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## scooter99

Next I cut out a cardboard template for fitting.


Then I traced that onto the ABS sheet and cut it out. I used tape because the ABS is black and it would be kinda hard to see the markings otherwise.


Then test fitted it into the console.


So I looked at that and looked and looked and looked and I came to the conclusion that it would just look to plain and would actually be a little hard to see the DRC screen. SO I came up with this.

Again the cardboard template, you'll see me using this alot. 










Cut in the DRC


The Ipod


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## scooter99

Then I moved the switches from the center console to here, which is why I got the new console piece in the first place. Now there are no holes in it.


From left to right on the switches: Cabin leds, headrest monitors, trunk leds. I'm going to be adding another switch to it for some engine bay and wheel well leds for shows or whatever (if that happens). But I'm not doing that yet. I'm also going to add a couple of push buttons for a garage door intigration when I get around to it. All that will be on that top row. I'm also going to go with different switches. I have these but they're pretty tall and frankly I forgot about the USB port and it gets in the way of that. So I think what I'll do is put the garage door opener buttons there (2) and then move the switches over a bit. The other switches are smaller to BTW so they should all fit without going behind the Ipod. Ok moving on.



Started cutting out pieces from the templates.




Cut out the bottom of the base and started putting the pieces together. I found some "plastic weld" that I used to put all the pieces together with.










Then I started playing with height and stuf for the ipod so i didn't eliminate any of the screen when it was in the base. 
I started with this. This is one of hte attachments for an apple ipod dock. I was going to use this and then just epoxy the ipod cord into it. Then I got to thinking that it wouldn't really work becasue i needed to be able to take it out if i had to do anything.


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## scooter99

So I decided to go with the dock instead. That way I can plug into it from the back, and then if I ever have to remove the console, I can disconnect it. Now the problem becomes how do I attach this big ass thing cause it's too thick for the area. 


So I took it apart and went from there. 


Hmmmmmmmmm........




Dremmel Time!!!!


This is how it will connect.


From the inside


put the cover back on the cable after cutting off the tabs on the side.


I used some of the same plastic weld to attach it.


Next up, DRC. I put the wings on it that it comes with, to get a placement of how it would sit.


----------



## scooter99

I drilled some holes in it to get the plastic weld to stick better and make a sort of rivet for the wings to sit on. Then I coverd the DRC with masking tape to protect it. 
Then attached it using the same plastic weld.






Tape removed and the DRC sitting in there unattached with the rest of the family.


Test fit for the center console piece.


Time to cover it up. I used black suede for this. It's not quite black in my opinion. It almost looks like a sharpie after you've colored or written over some tape. It's like a purpleish color. But it's livable for now. When i re upholster I may change it to graphite.


Covered.




Velcro FTW!!!! This will give me the ability to remove the DRC if needed and not have to unscrew it or anything. I also left the edges long so that when the DRC is in, it's a tight fit! 


Then I wired it up and it's ready for installation.


----------



## scooter99

Installed, but not connected yet. 


I'm also going to be making a new shift boot. So when that gets done it'll be the same color as this panel. 

A random pictures of my angels!!!! 




And a stow away that snuck in my car! Hmmmmm how'd that get there! 


So that's gonna do it for this update! 

So let's see what's left to do? 
Finish drilling holes in the rack, distro block panel, terminal block panel, sub panel. 

That reminds me, I forgot to mention that when I raised the floor the 3/8" I went into my plug for the sub wires. So I'll have to install another one. I'll leave that one there so that I don't have to plug a hole. I just happened to buy two of those plugs though, good thing. So I'll have to do that as well. 

Then I have to recover the two side panels in another suede color after all the holes are drilled out. Then I need to wire everything up: Terminal blocks, relay, leds, distro block, Bit one, and then the amps. After that I have to make beauty panels and then it should be ready for tuning. 

In the cabin I have to run the headrest monitor wires down the seats and install those, fix the leds under the driver seat, install the visor monitors, connect the molex plugs for the mid range and tweeters, connect the center console wires, install the new center console. Install the fuses and power this bish up!!! Then it's time to TUNE!!!!

The last thing I'll need to do is install that alarm. I also have a driver door window issue. It hangs up on something and I need to figure out what it is. It goes up and down, but if I hit the button to go up, it hangs and goes back down. I think that's the safety switch but not sure. But I need to figure out what's causeing it to do that. Then the passenger door alarm led needs replacing since I fried it testing it. 

So there seems like a lot to do, but it's really really close to getting done. Oh I almost forgot I have to make the pass thru on the back seat. I may wait on that too, we'll see what happens. 

I'm going to try and get some stuff done this week in the hopes of being ready for tuning next weekend. This weekend I'll be working all weekend. So between this week and next week, half hour here, all nighter there, you know how it goes, I should be ready for tuning in two weeks!!! 

Oh I almost forgot. Here's the diagram I've been working on for the alarm install on this car. I've been working wtih some of the folks at The12Volt.com on it and I think we're about there and ready for this to go in. 


That's it for now!!!
Questions, Comments?


----------



## capnxtreme

Nice work! Been following for a long time.

And cute girls.


----------



## scooter99

Thank you very much. For both comments. I appreciate the interest and support!


----------



## n_olympios

Very good work! 

Will you be using a mono signal for rear fill?


----------



## scooter99

I am using a mono signal for the rear fill and subs. the Bit One only has 8 output channels, and the first 6 are being used for the front stage, and then the rear fill doesn't need to be aligned or anything so I decided to run it mono. Same with the subs. 

On another note, I've removed my speaker pods on the Apillars. I'm going to dive in and get those changed out. I was driving home yesterday and it was driving me nuts with those pods being litterally 2 feet from my face. So i took em out last night and tonight I'll be starting on that! I have everything mapped out and the locations pretty much where I want them. So I'm going to go with that. I think they'll be a lot better looking and a lot more out of the way. I've avoided the dash cluster hump so I won't have to worry about that interfering with the sound at all.


----------



## n_olympios

scooter99 said:


> I am using a mono signal for the rear fill and subs. the Bit One only has 8 output channels, and the first 6 are being used for the front stage, and then the rear fill doesn't need to be aligned or anything so I decided to run it mono. Same with the subs.


Hmmm... 

I'm guessing you're using the HU's front pair into the bitone for a stereo signal. Couldn't you use the HU's rear pair of outputs for rear fill and use the last couple of bitone outputs for the subs? That way you wouldn't lose any sound info, plus you can manage every speaker the way you want to.


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## scooter99

I dont' know. I didn't think I could do that, but now I've got everything coverd up and sealed under the wall. To do it now would be a pain. Wouldn't that affect the sound? I'm not sure I understand how this can happen. I've got my auido outs from the head unit going to the bit one 1 and 2 inputs, and then the optical cable going from the dvd player to the bit one aux 1. So wouldn't I be controlling sound from the DRC when the DVD player runs, and that would eliminate the headunit volume wouldn't it? How big of a sound difference is this going to make with the subs? Is it really worth it? I'm bridging the subs on 2 channels anyway. I'm so confused about this.


----------



## n_olympios

LOL I'd forgotten about the dvdplayer. No, it wouldn't make that much of a difference on the subs. I was thinking more about the rear fill tbh, but yeah, it's probably not worth it. If you didn't have the dvdplayer though, it'd probably be the best way to do it.


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## kyheng

For me, as your system is considered as surround system, so your rear fill should be full range. There's no point if you run sub's frequencies which limited to 63-100Hz(depending to your settings)... I'm still thinking how to get this done without affecting your front stage settings...... My P9 combo is easier to do this(because the Hu got pre-outs).
Or another way is, ditch the P800PRSsince the XDV also using 24-bit burrbrown DACs.


----------



## scooter99

Well everyone keep in mind that the rear fill is for the dvd's ONLY! If no movie, no rear fill. I'm not spending thousands of dollars on this system and a nice front stage to have it drawn to the back with rear fill. The only time the rear fill will be on is if there is a DVD playing for my kids. Otherwise, if it was just me, I'd never have even done the rear fill. Everything else will be playing up front on the 3 way front stage and the subs.


----------



## kyheng

But even if you have video, you may not able to have rear fill also.... Refer to your Bit1's maual, page 8,9 because the optical input only accepts stereo signal. Is pretty dumb I will say for Audison to do this..... The optical in should able to accept Dolby or DTS rather than just stereo signals.


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## n_olympios

But he doesn't care about the rear channel info in a surround sound format. He only wants some sound at the back, even if it's a duplicate of the front channels. Right?

Besides, if the BitOne accepted the DD or DTS format, it would have to a) decode it and b) do something with it in terms of processing. That would make it cost even more. 

Ahh the joys of the H700/701.


----------



## scooter99

yea it's really just for the girls and the movies. I'll look further into it when I get everything running. Maybe I'll have to do away with them, but I don't want to do that and I'm sure my kids don't want to do that. I'll figure something out.


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## scooter99

Ok I've started a thread to get this issue solved. Hopefully some Bit One experienced users can help us settle this issue out. Maybe we can all come up with a solution for future member issues. 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diy-mobile-audio-sq-forum/76655-multichannel-question-bit-one-users.html#post976201


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## IBcivic

get them head-sets...problem solved:laugh:


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## scooter99

Yea right! Like they'd keep em on!


----------



## kyheng

Head sets is not a good option as it will slowly fry your children's ears.....


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## IBcivic

t'was meant to be humorous


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## scooter99

yea I knew that. But now I'm thinking about it, althought they still would never keep em on. I'm having a hell of a time figureing out what to do about this god damn rear fill issue. I'm thinking of just scraping it, selling the 6.9 and getting another 4.1 or a 4.5. I'm getting frustrated. Not with anyone, but myself cause I should've researched this a little better!


----------



## scooter99

Ok everyone follow along cause this is the way it's gonna go down. 

I'm going to run the head unit on the master inputs of the Bit One as planned. I'm going to eliminate all the mono to stereo inputs on ouput channels 7 & 8 on the bit one and run them as single channels to the subs. 

I'm adding a set of RCA's from the DVD player to the rear fill channels on the LRx 6.9, bypassing the bit one all together for the rear fill. I already have the optical cable in and I'll use that as planned on the Aux input on the Bit One so I still have full control of the front stage and the subs via the optical cable. 

Here's where it's going to get confusing so pay attention closely. I only have one set of Analog outputs on the dvd player, to answer the question as to why I would even use the otpical for it. I have it in, I'm using it, and not spending any more money, Cause well I don't have anymore frankly. 

I have two options on how I can listen to music. The easiest option is to just simply switch from aux (dvd) to the master (head unit) and use that cd player. Or, pay attention, the dvd player gives me the option of having both analog and optical outs working or one or the other. So if I want to listen to cd's digitally, I can simply go into the menu of the dvd player and turn off the analog signal for the rear fill and I have full control over the front stage and subs via digial signal. 

Clear as mudd? Ok then. Just pay attention, cause that's the way I'm doing it, it seems easy enough to me, and I'm just gonna go with it. I'm starting tonight! I have a pillars to start, rca's to make (and figure out how to pass through a sealed wall) and a trunk to get wired up. 

Hang on it's gonna be a wild ride!!!!!!!

And listen cause I'm sure some of you are asking the same thing that Erin did on the other thread, and I'm going to answer you the same way I did him. The question I'm sure all of you are asking is "why don't you just do a double din single disc dvd player and you wouldn't have to worry about any of this?" The answer: Because I'm an easily distracted person. I had issues with that when I had the 505. Even though I could turn off the screen it was a pain to have to do all that and then forget to turn it back on so it blacks out again when the music is on, I know it doesn't sound that irritating, but it was to me. So to bypass that, I went with the dual single units. At this point I'm out of money and it's just not an option for me to do, and now I'm tired of no music in my car so I want this done! And to take more responsibility than that, because I just siimply didn't research this enough before I went this direction. With the money I spent for the 800PRS and the XDV-P6 I could've bought the z110bt and had the bluetooth built in and navi! Live and learn. This might just be the only change I make in the future but it ain't gonna happen now! 

Ok I've gotta get to work or my boss is gonna kill me.


----------



## kyheng

Something you need to know scott, your XDV-P6's RCA outputs is not meant to connect to amps, if you read the installations manual properly. I just read it BTW on its tech specs, the pre-out is only 1V......


----------



## ErinH

^ ruh roh.... that sucks....


then, wtf are the preouts for?
Pioneer USA - XDV-P6 - Add a 6-Disc DVD/CD Changer to any System with the XDV-P6


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## scooter99

Ok then I'll run them out of the back of the head unit rear outs. I'll control the front with the DRC and control the back with the head unit. The DRC will still be on Aux mode and then then head unit will send the signal to the amp. The dvd will still send the signal to the head unit via the IP bus. 

Edit - then I can fade it out when I'm in master mode and the rear won't be on.


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## scooter99

Ok it looks like he's right on the rca outs, and I would guess it's that low because it only goes to the screens for audio which I wouldn't guess needs much power to operate. So I can do a couple of things here, the way I see it. I can either invest in a line driver for the 1v rca outs on the dvd player, run the rear from the head unit to the amp directly like I said, or just say F it and see if someone wants to trade me a DEH-p800PRS and and XDV-P6 for a pioneer z110bt. I'm gonna have to get back to you folks on this one. 

By the way after thinking about it, if i remember correctly, I think I already made a second set of rca cables to go from front to back so maybe I won't have to do that. 

What I may just end up doing, is not doing anything about the rear fill for now. Finish the install as is, and then get things running and figure out what I can do from there. Cause I'd hate to run a line from front to back after I've already done this, and then find out it doesn't work! 

I'm tired of thinking about it right now! 

ANYONE WANNA TRADE AN AUDISON LRX 6.9 FOR AN LRX 4.1K? SIGH!!!


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## kyheng

Keep your 6.9 and bridge them, just look at the specs, when bridged, you will have almost the same power(if I can see properly, is middle of midnight now and I'm sleepy)


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## scooter99

Edit - I erased this. I need to stop and think a bit. I'm going away for a bit and getting this thing done. I'm going to finish this and see where I stand! I HAVE TO FIGURE IT OUT BY PLAYING WITH IT OR I'M JUST GONNA BE BUYING EQUIPMENT FOREVER TRYING TO GET PERFECT! I'm not gonna do that. 

I'm stopping for a while, I'm going to go away and work on my car and I'll post up progress in the next couple of days! I'm thinking about stuf too much and I need to just finish what I've started. 

Thanks to everyone for your support and suggestions. It's not gone unnoticed! 

SIGH!


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## kyheng

Let's see if your stuffs can open my eyes tonight.....


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## n_olympios

Your problem, should you connect the XDV6 directly to the amp, will not be the output voltage, but its fixed output. You won't have any control over the rear channels' volume.


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## scooter99

Ok so here it is. This is the way I'm going to do it. If it doesn't work then I'll explore other options then. Otherwise I'll be happy. But I don't see why this won't work. We'll see! 

To clarify what I'm doing. I'm removing the mono to stereo signals from the bit one. I'm running front L & R from the head unit to the Master inputs 1 & 2 on the Bit One. I'm running the Sub L & R from the head unit to the LRx 6.9 to run the rear fill in full range option. I'm running the digital optical cable from the XDV-P6 to the Optical Aux Input on the Bit One. I'm also using the IP Bus cable from the XDV-P6 to the head unit and that will supply the sound to be able to utilize the sub outputs for the rear fill. That was directly from the Pioneer rep I talked to by the way, before anyone just jumps out and says "you can't do that." Doing this should allow me to control the Front and Sub stages from the Bit One's DRC and then the Rear fill will be controlled from the headunit. I'll then be able to turn if off if need be by switching the sub mode off. Why would I want to do that, becauses if I'm wanting to listen to a cd in digital mode or show it or whatever I'll be able to do that without the rear fill. 

It makes sense to me and that's the way I'm going to try it. 

Here's my diagram if anyone wants to see it.


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## IBcivic

n_olympios said:


> Your problem, should you connect the XDV6 directly to the amp, will not be the output voltage, but its fixed output. You won't have any control over the rear channels' volume.


''THERE'S AN AP FOR THAT''........ on the lrx 69er, the rear channels[5-6] have a remote[sub] volume input...if he does choose to go this way


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## scooter99

Sorry Martin I don't follow.


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## scooter99

Oh you mean for the amp?


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## IBcivic

yesssir


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## IBcivic

the little plug with a jumper,can be removed and you install a level control...in your case...a stand alone , rear-fill volume control.

http://www.audison.eu/xml/products/pdf/audison_support_manuals/LRx/audison_LRx6.9_manual_IT_EN.pdf

page 51


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## scooter99

Hmmm. I'll try it this way. Should work basically the same way but I'm using the head unit as the volume control. Then with that I have the ability to shut it off.


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## scooter99

Just got my replacement switches for my center console. 

I think I've made a plan of attack. I'm going to make a second set of RCA's to go from the head unit to the trunk. Get that knocked out. Next I'm going to install the rear terminal block portion of the amp rack and get it wired up. Then Finish the rest of the amp rack. 

At that point I can try my theory I just posted and if it doesn't work I'll be back to selling stuff and getting the new head unit. But that's where I'm starting at the moment.


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## scooter99

Ok so I went home today and had a nice relaxing evening with the family. Made dinner, maui style chicken for my wife, and I had maui style mahi mahi. Little chao main that my wife made and some asparagus. The girls, well they're pickey eaters so I won't even go there. But we had a nice evening and spent some time with my family and then the girls went to bed and I headed out to the "cave"!

I have been thinking today about my a pillars. Mainly because I'M SICK OF THINKING ABOUT THE ELECTRONICS OF THE SYSTEM! So I went to the local wally mart and picked up some modeling clay and started up. I got the passenger side completely formed and it looked great. Then I went to the driver side. Well it wasn't going to work so I tore out the passenger side. Good thing it's slow drying clay! I did get pics of it but I'll post em later. 

So now I have a great idea after flirting around with some ideas about how to get these things molded in. SO this stuff takes about a day to dry under normal sculpting circumstances, so I figure it's gonna take the whole weekend to pull these suckers out! Not a problem cause I'm working at my moms this weekend starting Friday. 

My plan then is to get them molded up tomorrow night and put the car on the side of the house and let em dry. I don't need it cause I'm driving the truck to mom's to do some work and moving stuff. Monday night I'll start glassin them in. I'm going to try and save the mold of these things incase anyone wants to use them but we'll see how feezable that is. I've test fitted everything and looked at it and looked over about 30 times on both sides and I think it's gonna look great. 

Frankly I'm going to like these better than the one I did on the passenger side. That one was in the corner of the windsield and was really going to have problematic possibilities. These are more hidden away and I think the problems are solved. I'm excited about this and I can't wait to get started on it. If I wasn't so behind at work I'd just take tomorrow off. Maybe a good idea for monday! HMMMMM!

Sorry - EDIT - I did want to address the problems I had today and I did think about it more after I left a little bit. I've been talking with a couple of you and there are some other minor issues I'm going to have to work out or I may just scrap the double stacked idea anyway. 

I've got to do a little better research but I'm currently looking at the Pioneer AVH-P4200DVD to replace both the DEH-P800PRS and the XDV-P6. Just in case I didn't mention it before.

The issues I have to work out are really I guess only one at the moment but it's a big issue. I'm a huge huge huge Ipod listener. I know about the comparisons, I've read the threads, thank you anyway. But I'm very dependent on my ipod for music, especially now that I don't have my sirius anymore. But I'm also on the road alot with my Ipod and I'm a little concerned about the controls of the ipod. I'm really concerned about them in the 800prs more than anything because, frankly, I don't see how the controlability of scrolling through songs or picking artists or just simply navigating my way through it, can possibly be anything but difficult given that it's not a full screen. So that's a major issue for me to be completely honest with everyone. 

I talked to the pioneer rep at my local audio shop here, and he was explaining everything and really showing me how it worked on the P4200DVD. They actually didn't have one, but he was showing me on the P4100DVD and was explaining the differences between the two. Mainly being the faster processing technology in the Newer 4200. He also explained that the ipod controls ran a good deal faster on the 4200 than the 4100. As well as explained some other things, that frankly I don't rememeber. He had me at faster ipod controls! 

I'm actually looking at this from a bunch of different angles also. I've spent a rough amount of 1300.00 on the set up that I'm currently about to run, 800prs, XDV-P6, Pyle Sun visor monitors, dash kits, harnesses, cables, monitor video amplifier, and stuff like that. I'm still having issues with the sunvisor monitors which I'm a little discouraged on and am ready to give up on. I look at all the money I've spent on this stuff and am realizing I've spent 3 times the amount of what I can get out of a unit like the P4200DVD. So at this point, even though I have the equipment to get done with this build, I'm still leaning towards the new unit, not only to save me some heart ache, even though I've seemingly fixed the issues I was having, but mainly to save me some money. 

When this build is done my car is going to be nowhere near done. I'm going from here to the performance side of things and that also costs money. I've already started to gather things, inexpensive things, and at this point have my eyes set on a new set of wheels. But all that costs money. So if I can save myself some money by going back to the double din unit, then I'm seriously considering it at the moment! 

That's all I've got for now. I'm sure everyone has comments they want to make, and I'm sure I deserve the negative ones. But let me reassure everyone that nothing is stopping. I'm going on as planned to finish this build. I'm just going to have to decide if I want to eliminate a few things or not and then change out the head unit if that is in fact the way I decide to go. 

I'm going to bed now, sorry for the long post/update but I figured everyone should know where I was and why I was there with my thoughts. Thanks again for all your guys's support and info and help! It's much appreciated and doesn't go unnoticed! 

Good night all!


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## kyheng

Well, that the learning curve you must walked thru, else you won't know what you want at the end of day. I've been thru that. That's why I head straight to Pioneer's DEX, DEQ combo to stop my upgrading virus. Because I know that, anything better than them, is either the Alpine F#1 or Pioneer ODR(why this 2 only and not others? Because these 2 can support wider range of add-ons via their bus cable). But now my upgrading virus is hitting me again, because the DEQ-P9 got a fatal problem which I don't like at all. It is DRC enabled and I can't disable it without flashing the DSPs. But then this combo is good enough for me if I don't listen to heavy bass song. Just imagine that, when you are hitting a drum hard, you know you can go another 1cm but you just pull the stick up back again worry that the drum will be damaged.

As for you Scott, is good that you continue on your build, or atleast until you can listen to them, then only decide to change the HU or not. Because you will still have the same, optical output(4200 need a box for this if not mistaken) and 3 pair of RCA pre-outs. Only different is, equipments used are lesser if you change HU now. 
If you still cannot decide, then you will end up a sad seller and some happy buyers.


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## scooter99

Yea I'm going to continue as planned for the moment. I'm going to try and take monday off of work so I can get most of the car done, electronics of it anyway, and start figuring out what is or isn't going to work. Then I'll make my decision on the units.


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## scooter99

Ok as far as I know I have monday off now. I'm getting off early today so I'll be doing work on the pillars tonight, getting them molded in. Then I'll start up the wiring process in the trunk. My hope is to have everything fired up and working on monday, and glass the pillars and finish those off. Then some major decisions will have to be made after that, or not, we'll have to see how it all works out!


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## scooter99

Ok well here's what I did last night and tonight on the pillars. 

So last night I got home and decided that I could just use spray insulation and build a mold up to the apillar and then I'd just carve off excess until I liked it. That didn't work. What I didn' think about was that there was nothing there to hole the foam from going outward away from the pillar and windshield. SO I scrapped that.


I used shirts as a barrier but it was already too late. 


After that I decided what about modeling clay. I thought I could steal, or borrow, my kids play dough but that would just be wrong! So I went out to wal mart and picked up a few tubs of molding clay. Then I had my next go round! This was nice, I actually really liked the way it turned out, but I started on the passenger side. So once I got to the driver side, it wouldn't work because of the hump in the dash. I couldn't get the mid range back far enough to even get close to the same look, and on top of that no matter how I tried to work the tweeter in the same position it just simply wouldn't. 











So I tore that out to salvage the clay. Then i started on version 3 tonight. I think we're there! 

Driver side!




Start of the tweeter pod.


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## scooter99

Tweeter pod finished, but I had to alter this later.


You can see on the right that it kind of tapers off to the windshield. 


Driver side done!








Here's where I changed the tweeter pod. I removed the taper. It just wasn't sitting well with me. 




So the driver side is done, and really I think the only concern I have right now is how straight to the driver the mid range is. It's really close to the pillar in front of it. I may have to angle it a touch more, but we'll see what happens after it dries and I get the glass on it.

Onto the passenger side!


Tweeter pod.


Mid range done. I ended up needing one more tub of clay, but I couldn't get away to the store so I snaked some of my daughters play dough. I bought them new last night just in case so it's all good!


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## scooter99

Cleaned up a bit!




So that's about it. Like I said before those will sit a dry for a few days, cause I'll be at my mom's working all weekend. But I do have monday off, so hopefully these will be dry and I can get them glassed. If I can do that I'll work on wireing as well while in between coats etc. Maybe I can get this car working on monday night! 

Goodnight all!


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## kyheng

Too bad I only can follow your build on Sunday(your photos are killing my "broadband" bandwidth), but looks good what I can say.


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## scooter99

Sorry man!! Monday night or Tuesday I'll have a crapload more too! I'm almost there, I can smell it! Once I get things up and running monday then I'll know if I need to make a switch or not on the head unit. I've really actually made up my mind on the new unit, I just want to see if what I was going to do with this one was going to work or not. 

I know everyone thinks I'm crazy but I think in reality it's the thought of getting rid of all the extra equipment, visor monitors that I'm already not thrilled about, the dvd player and head unit which I love but more equipment than needed, and the ipod module as well. Then replacing it with one nice unit for a third the cost as the other stuff.

Acutally I'm probably going to hang on to the 800PRS and put it in my truck. But I have other stuff and other head units that all need to be sold anyway. So I should more than make up for the cost of the AVH-P4200DVD. But nothing is truely going to happen unitl after monday when I figure if this other stuff is going to work or not. Then I'll decide if I want to rush into it or not. 

I konw I'm being compeltey contradictary but that's ok. Just try and keep up. 

BTW, my other DB came today, and the frame for the Bit One DRC. Thanks Martin! Of course just my luck, I'm out of town when it came in. Sux casue I really wanna go work on the car right now. Just don't have it with me! Oh well!!!


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## IBcivic

n/p scoot
glad i could get it for ya


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## scooter99

Ok folks I'm going to bed. A bonus would be that I could finish here at mom's tomorrow and be home and have sunday and monday to finish this BisH! We'll see how it works out. Keep your fingers crossed. It's gonna be a long day tomorrow.


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## scooter99

Ok well frustration has begun! I just got home from my mom's house and thought for sure the clay would be dry enough to pull out to start fiberglassing by now. Nope! So I'm not sure what I'm going to do at this point. It's, I don't think, even dry enough to try and cut out and try to start glassing it. I don't know what to do now, but I don't want to spend too much time on that at the moment and I need to concentrate on getting the rest of it done. Grrrrrrrr!


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## scooter99

Ok well as expected I tried to take the pods out tonight and the pillars and they broke apart. So I'm back to square one with that mess. I have another thought in mind and I'll work on that and see where I get. Tomorrow is going to be AALLLLLL about wiring and getting up and running. I'll worry about the pods after that! DAMN ANOTHER SET BACK!!!!

BTW, still not set on the head unit situation. I've been thinking about it too much and I've almost just biastly decided to make the switch. I'm going to go ahead and continue on as planned but I'm almost positive that I'm going to be switching out the units to the DD Pioneer AVH-P4200DVD player. I'll make my decision later this week or maybe next. 

That's all for now!


----------



## scooter99

Well while I did not get finished and powered up last night, I'm extremely close to it. I got the Bit One installed, the Distro Block is 90% installed (Still have to put the 1/0 ga in), and the cabin is about 85% done. I have the headrests to put in, which has presented a new problem for me. I'll get back to that. The center console "Hub" as I'm going to call it, needs to get finished up wiring. About 10 minutes worth and that's ready to go. I have to run a couple lines for the led's up front. The seats are done, but I need to adjusts the LED's on the driver side. They are being pulled off by a wire. I guess it's really the wire that I need to move. 

THAT, brings me to my head rest problem. The lovely people at Pioneer Electronics, supplied me with about 500 feet of cable for these things. It would not be a problem to shorten them, but it has 3 different sets of RCA's which are in the smallest wires I've ever seen, and I'm a little worried about F-ing those up. So I've got to pull the seats and figure out how I'm going to get rid of the cable. I could coil them up and put them in the seat back, but I'm not sure there's enough room. So the only other option would be to coil them up behind the seat back, then as well coil them up under the seat and zip tie them to the seat bottom. I'll have to figure that out. 

I've decided to not put in the visor monitors for the time being. I'm going to wait until I figure out and make my final decision on the head units. If I elimiate the dual units and go with the DD then I won't need them and I don't want to put holes in my headliner or roof to attach the board for them if I don't have to. So those are on hold at the moment. 

Tonight I'm going to finish the cabin, with exception of the a pillars for the mid range and tweeters. The IB wall interior is done, and the back seat is 90% done. I still have to cut out the pass thru, but that's not priority right now. Hopefully I'll have time after all of that, to install the amps. Then beyond that the trunk will be done except for wiring up the terminal block. 

So I'm very close to being done, but at the same time I feel so far from it. I worked on it yesterday from about 9AM to 4:30PM, then I went and got my daughter and a haircut, then the family nightly duties and then I worked on it again from about 830PM to 145AM, when I couldn't keep my eyes open anymore. But I made a list of things that needed to be done to finish, for the most part, and I got half of those things crossed off yesterday. SO I made great progress I think, but there's still alot of time left to spend on it! 

No picture updates yet, although I have alot of them to post up. I just don't have time at work right now, and all my extra time at home is being spent working on the car. So I'll update with pics as soon as I can. But be patient, because I'm hoping that the time it takes to make everyone wait, will be worth it in the finished product! 

Thanks for everyone's support thus far!


----------



## ErinH

> I still have to cut out the pass thru




You’re making a pass through? Or did your car come with this?


----------



## scooter99

My car has the arm rest in the rear seat. So I'm going to cut the metal out of the back of that, then make a frame out of mdf and cover the seat side facing the cabin with grill cloth so it still look stock. Then I'm going to cover the back side of the frame with the same PE carpet as everything else is covered with in there. 

I think I vaguely remember us talking about this before when you were cutting your back seat out, the metal anyway, that you didn't have that armrest back there.


----------



## ErinH

scooter99 said:


> I think I vaguely remember us talking about this before when you were cutting your back seat out, the metal anyway, that you didn't have that armrest back there.


shhhhh... don't spill my secrets.


----------



## scooter99

Sorry! My bad!!


----------



## ErinH

LOL!
I'm just kidding, man.


I never called you back last night because I checked the wiring and it was as I told you. :thumbsup:


----------



## scooter99

That's ok. Alright I got it then. Can't wait to get home and work on it somemore! Damn work and life getting in the way!!!!


----------



## scooter99

Question for the support crew out there. If I do pillar pods, do I need to have sealed enclosures for the mid ranges, or if I cover the front side of my pillar and leave the back side uncovered will that be ok or will I have problems? I can cover the back but if I don't have to it will obviously be less work. 

I'm planning to finish with the amps tonight, then tomorrow do the apillars, amp rack cover, beauty panel for the subs, and the back seat pass thru. Then it will be TUNE TIME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! epper: :beerchug: :rockon: :shocked2: 

Ok off to do the nightly routine, then out to work on the amps! :burnout:


----------



## ErinH

depends on the driver.

I don't know enough about your mids to say.


----------



## IBcivic

any vase throwing around here?


----------



## IBcivic

if they can run vented..you'd have to vent so the back wave would get lost somewhere...like inside the dash board.


----------



## scooter99

Would it have to vent out of the back or can it be vented down? I have the bottom of the window part of that a pillar, Erin know's what I'm talking about, that has the holes in it for the window defroster. So if I build it like an enclosure but leave a spot out where those holes are on the bottom that should be good yea?


----------



## scooter99

Oh and by the way no vases but.........:listenup:


----------



## ErinH

if you're going to vent, you can also vent down into the dash via the OEM tweeter location. Might be better to go there since your drivers are already back that far in. 
That's where I plan to vent my next setup.


----------



## scooter99

Ok folks I'm going to go ahead and get some updates up here today. Not sure how long it's gonna take because there's a lot of pictures. But I'll get it going soon. 

The latest equipment update is that I'm doing away with the dual single din units and going back to a double din. I've ordered the Pioneer AVH-P4200DVD, the CDC 3584 Optical Converter Box, and the Ipod cable. I should have it in the next couple of days. Tonight I'll be installing and wireing the trunk, FINALLY! Tomorrow I'll start on the apillars. By the end of the week I should be musically done and playing. I have a crapload of cosmetics to do and some things to re do, battery tray, and some other stuff, but those will all come with time. 

Be back in a bit!


----------



## scooter99

Sorry it took so long to get these up. Apparently I put them on my computer but forgot to upload them to photobucket. So I had to do it at home and I've just now gotten the chance. Here we go.

Starting with the extra set of RCA cables for the rear channels. 




Added a different molex plug to allow all four cable grounds.




The mess.


Units installed. Take a look cause this is already going to change. 


I ran it behind the glove box and then down along the optical cable. That might end up changing too. We'll have to wait and see.






So after digging and fighting the insulation, this is where i went through at.


----------



## scooter99

Here they are on the other side! 


Then I coiled them up in a wide loop under the rear seat bottom.


Next I soldered the lines for the leds in the sub compartment. Those also passed through the same spot as the RCA's.






This is the sub pig tail with the connector on it. This will plug into the trunk side of the female connector and then run to the amp.


Like so.


I also changed out the switches for the center console. 


Close up reveals that these are much shorter and I have no issues with clearance from the usb door.


Then I had to take the side center console panels off because I broke the brckets on them removing them so many times. So while I had those off and the center console apart, I decided to make a change to the arm rest!


----------



## scooter99

Here is the console back together.




Next up is the dash led's that go under the dashboard.






Now it's time for the big work!
Here is the panel I had to recover for the Bit One. I recovered it in a different color of suede. I think it looks ok next to the amp rack. We'll see what the final product looks like. Then I'll decide if I need to change the center amp rack as well. 




Pedistol installed.


RCA's passed into each hole ready for connection.


Remote wires into harness plug.


----------



## scooter99

Power harness 


Bit One in place and ready for connection! 








The distro block panel got the same treatment with new suede! 


Measuring holes to drill for the wires.


Done.


Covered the outside.


----------



## scooter99

Installed the pedistol.


Then the db.










Group Photo!!!


Oh wait some family members are missing!!!


So I got the new db and the lens on it is the clear blue. That just won't work since the rest of them are smoked. So I did a little coloring!!


----------



## scooter99

So really the only thing left right now to do in the back seat is to cut the pass thru. But I hooked up the lights so you all could see.
Trust me it looks sweeeeet in person! Pics do not do it justice!


Here's the wiring from the front dash leds. 






Here's the second db next to the first one. These two will center on a board that I'll remake for this.
 

I also discovered that this one was now darker than the rest so I gave them a quick shot as well.


Now they look the same! Sweet!

Wired up the center console. Switches, bit one drc, and the ipod base.
Molex plug on the switches so I can easily disconnect.




Ready for installation.


Installing!


----------



## scooter99

Installed!


Here is my Skunk 2 Weighted shifter back in it's rightful place! Man that's nice to have back!!! WHEW!! I will be, at some point, sewing together a new boot to match the center console. I was also thinking of covering the trim piece in the charcoal or graphite gray I'm going to use as well. We'll see how it looks.


Console in place.


Here's the rest of the dash trims with led's being installed!






So here's my pet peve about the head rest monitors and I would really like to get ahold of one of those guys at Pioneer and ring their neck with this god damn thing! This cable is 30 feet long! WTF!! What does anyone need with a 30 foot long cable? Anyway here are the head rest installations.


So after studying it for a while I finally figured out where to put this massive coil of cable.


----------



## scooter99

Figured out the correct length of cables. 


Installed the shroud for the screen and the headrest.


Then molex plugged the wires below for easy discconnect. Anyone see my problem here? 


So because I didn't look or pay attention or whatever the case is, I have now, two male plugs instead of a male female plug. So I've orderd the female plugs and I'll just make an extension of the cable and plug them both in. Problem solved.

Here is the family of db's and terminals painted and together.




Here is a picture of where the pass thru is. I'll remove the plastic piece that's in there and then I'll make a frame with grill cloth around it so you can't see a hole, that will eventually be there.






Here I started to tape off to spray my taillights. This didn't work out so well. I ended up going a different route!


----------



## scooter99

So I didn't like the way that turned out, so I went with the vinyl overlay I bought from ebay. I like this much better.

Night photos.






Day photos




Ok back to audio!
I wired up the leds for each panel. 




This is the db panel with the wires passed thru.


----------



## scooter99

After looking at the spare tire well for a bit it just screamed DRESS ME UP!!! SO, I did!




Here's the trunk in progress pics.


Then the amp rack led wiring.

I wrapped the wires that go between the relay block in front of the subs and the amp rack because I didn't have room for mounts and I didn't want the wires just flopping around. This will also stop some rattling and give it a cushion.


----------



## scooter99

IT'S ALIVE, IT'S ALIVE, IT'S ALIIIIIIVVVVVEEEEE!!




Couple little spots there where the led's met and there's a little void in the light. I'll have to decide if I can live with that or not.





DB


Bit One.

OH ****, I got a strip out. Oh well, I'll have to fix that for sure!

And the family!


The amps still need to be wired, and there are a few things to do to finalize. But the next major project here is the apillars so I can get my mid range and tweeters in. 

That's all for now! Goodnight all!!!


----------



## scooter99

BTW, I'm most likely getting new shoes!! These are what I'm getting but where the red stripe is, it's gonna be polished! 18x7.5's. Just throwing that in there.


----------



## angelspeedfreak

scooter99 said:


> BTW, I'm most likely getting new shoes!! These are what I'm getting but where the red stripe is, it's gonna be polished! 18x7.5's. Just throwing that in there.


I've allways loved black rims...... I bet some 19's would look screaming, just a thought.


----------



## scooter99

I'm dropping the car about an inch and a half so 18's are pushing it as it is! 

I got an update!! I love presents!! I got a little package delivery this morning! Thanks VINNY!

DUNTDUNDAAAAA!!
 

epper:





Here is the thing I'm wondering about. I'm assuming that this is the digital out 3.5 mm jack. It says on it, rear out. 



I also have the ipod cable for this, as well as the optical converter box. That's gonna be here next week so when I get that I'll put this bad boy in, that way I don't have to do it twice! 

I also got my female RCA's in yesterday! So I'll get those video cable extensions done as well.

Great day great day!!!


----------



## n_olympios

Ooh, nice progress. 

A couple of things: isn't that rear light tinting illegal over there? I'm just asking. 

And secondly, you can change the leds location so that the voids are in the corners opposite one another. That way it won't be so obvious.


----------



## scooter99

Shhhhhhhh! yes it is but because it's the vinyl overlay I'll just get out and pull em off. 

I thought of that last night and I'll fix that. Good idea!


----------



## sydmonster

wow... someone's been very busy! Like the shoes and the back light amp rack


----------



## scooter99

This is not audio related but I'm flipping back and forth between here and my civic forum so I thought I'd share where the project was at with you guys too. 

Another update! Got my sunroof visor today from the fedex guy! Thanks K20 Elite. I've almost got enough dough to get the paint job done, and when that happens I'll put this bad boy on. I thought I had a rear spoiler as well but they guy didn't want to go down on his price. That's ok, I'll pick one up eventually. 

So here's the progress right now. I'm still trying to get the audio system done. I worked on it a bit last night but ran into one issue after another and was getting frustrated, so I stopped cause when you work frustrated, the quality tends to go out the door! So I'll get back to it tonight. I would like to wait unitl the audio is done before I do any exterior upgrades or anything else. However, I'm aquiring some parts and it's got me pretty anxious to sit there and look at em and not put them in. So I'm gonna have to show some self control. 

Here is a list of the parts that I have right now that are going to go in once audio is done, or at least close to done. 

OEM Accord Horn - Because meep meep just doesn't cut it for me!
Chrome bulbs - Clearing the headlights and signal lights.
White Led's - For the Led's under the headlights.
Tein S-Tech Lowering Springs
Sunroof Visor

What I need right now or in the very near future:
Rear camber arms
Front camber bolts
Si rear spoiler
Rear window visor
MSR wheels
Shocks and Dampeners (Is that right?)
Paint the Hood, Roof, Trunk, and Spoiler Black - When this gets done I'm going to have him pull the rear H and clean it up so the rear is completely debadged! 

So that's where I'm at now. The problem is that PEOPLE NEED TO BUY MY STUFF ON THE FOR SALE THREADS SO I CAN GET THIS STUFF! COME ON!!!!!

I'll keep you all updated as it pans out!


----------



## scooter99

sydmonster said:


> wow... someone's been very busy! Like the shoes and the back light amp rack


Thank you. I'm excited to get em! There are much bigger plans with lights too. I just don't know when I'm going to get to that part! Time will tell!


----------



## IrishPilot

Sub'd!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so here's a little update. I should be done wiring the trunk tonight which means what..................everyone all at once 1 - 2 - 3 - SOUND!!! WOOHOO!!! 

The latest on equimpent is this. I've got the Pioneer 4200dvd sitting on the workbench saying hi to me every time I walk by it or drive into the garage. But I'm fighting the urge at the moment. I have to wire up the bypass relay, and I'm waiting for a couple of things still. Vinny tells me I should have my converter box next week so I'm assuming by next weekend I'll be installing this thing. 

Next up is the steering wheel controls. I've gone with PAC SWI and I've had nothing but problems with these, and I've gone thru three different units, 2 for pioneer and 1 for alpine, and it's me I know it's me but I decided not to go with it this time and put it on my for sale thread. Well big thanks to Erin, cause I seriously miss my sw controls. He discovered another swi through AXXESS. He said it was so super easy to hook up and virtually no, or no maybe he can clarify that for me, programming to do. So I ordered one of those. That will be here in a couple days. 

The other major thing right now is my apillar pods. I'm kicking around an idea of buying some that another memeber made. I'm kind of at a loss because I really like his and they would just need to be covered. So for a little money I could get them cover them and install my driver and tweeter in them and be done. On the other hand, it would litterally be the only thing in my car I didn't customize or fabricate myself and with that I'm having a little bit of a problem. But also I have all the materials to do this and it would save me some money. I'll have to get back to you guys on what's been decided when it gets decided. 

So really the last thing I have to install is my alarm. That's gonna be a big project to tackle because I'm doing the remote start, window modules, and sunroof module. So I'm not sure if that's gonna happen soon. I do have an alarm on it now so I'm not so fearful that something will happen and on top of that, my car never ever ever sits outside over night or for an extended period of time.

So aside of all that the rest of the car is just cosmetics and that will have to be done over time. I'm hoping to get time this weekend to work on a lot of it, but at the same time it's gonna be a beautiful weekend here and my house is a disaster and really needs to be addressed. So we'll see how all this plays in. 

Questions or comments please feel free.


----------



## kyheng

Scott : I don't know on your car alarm, but sunroof is something I won't do. Just imagine yo open the sunroof accidently and you don't know about it. But other parts is good as you can see them either open or close.

As your system is soundless now, so is good for you to play around the tweeter placement first before you decide the final locations.


----------



## scooter99

I thought about that but I'm pretty aware of if my stuff is open or closed. I'll play with it and get it down. 

How would I do the tweeter placement testing with no sound? I would think I'd need everything hooked up and ready to go before i do that. I still have to play with the bit one and get it dialed in and placement and stuff done. At that point i'll just have my brother stand there with the tweeter on the passenger side and move it around till it sounds best. then I'll have an idea of what I need to do for the driver side.


----------



## scooter99

BTW, someone buy kyheng's sdv-p7 so he can buy my dvd player please!


----------



## kyheng

Double side tape is something you can consider to use it as temporary. What I will do is I stick it and drive. Unless you only listen during the car is stopped. Have to know that SP won't give you 100% effect, especially on higher speed.

Are you mad? I'm in Malaysia and the shipping is a bomb. I guess there's not much people willing to take such trouble.....


----------



## scooter99

Sorry man you lost me at SP. I Get the rest and I'll probably try that tonight. What is SP though?


----------



## kyheng

Sound proofing....


----------



## scooter99

Ah gotcha!


----------



## scooter99

kyheng said:


> Double side tape is something you can consider to use it as temporary. What I will do is I stick it and drive. Unless you only listen during the car is stopped. Have to know that SP won't give you 100% effect, especially on higher speed.
> 
> Are you mad? I'm in Malaysia and the shipping is a bomb. I guess there's not much people willing to take such trouble.....


Na, why would I be mad? I was just trying to get your stuff sold to help!


----------



## kyheng

^What I can say is, there's alot more to do, not just installations, tuning is the most complicated part. Tweeter will do alot of evil if placement are wrong. But this is the fun part.

Well, you got your point.... But then it is not easy to get the old scholl stuff sold, especially this(SDV-P7) only plays DVD-video(no DVD-audio) and present DVD HUs do support multiple formats. Now my DEQ seems to have bigger problem , got the IC and changed it. Initial thought was just change the IC and problem will solved, but this is wrong, instead of 1 dead channel, now I got 6 dead channels..... But I still got 1 day to deccide my next step. If nothing happens I'll be ok, else another upgrade is on the way which will cost me a leg.....


----------



## scooter99

OOOOOHHHHH BABY!!!! WEEE HAVE POWERRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!! However we also have issues. I'm having an issue with both the bit one and the head unit, not turning off when no key. Almost like the 12v and the ignition wires are switched. On the bit one I have the ignition wire in the memory slot, but I think it needs to be in the key on/off slot. I also have the remote hooked up on this, so do I even need the ignition wire. I need confirmation. I'm also going to check on the head unit as well. Matter of fact since i'm going to be in there I might as well just change it out I guess. The whole reason I was going to wait was because I didn't want to get in there change it out and then have to get in there again. But now I really don't wanna do it three freaking times. So I'll probably just go for it. 

I'm also a little sceptical as to whether my relays are hooked up properly. I have no leds through my switches. I both switches work, meaning the leds on the switches come on when I switch them on, but nothing else comes on. Like, again, the relays aren't working. I installed relays for all my leds. Well there's two of them, one in back and one under the driver seat for the cabin. 

I guess I have some troubleshooting to do. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!


----------



## kyheng

^That's bad... Why not you just wire your 4200 like what you did on the SDV when you send to me? 
If you never do something on your ignition wire, guess Bit1 is the culprit. But it should not be buging you too much. Get them running and listen for the first time..... 
Relays
I guess 1 relay is good enough for your application already, as 1 relay can support upto 30A of current, which is more than enough for your LEDs or fans.


----------



## matdotcom2000

Just curious to why you connected the igntion wire to the bitone?
Normally there should only be three power connections
v12 (battery)
negative (ground)
remote (from headunit)

If you just use those it will work like a charm(I have installed 2 of them). Also if you push and hold the volume button in on the bitone it will turn off. Hold it in push and hold again it should turn back on.


----------



## JayinMI

The things I've read indicate that some BitOne's stay on with the constant wire hooked up, and you need to use the switched wire to have it come on and off with the key. I don't want to have to turn mine on and off manually every time.

Jay


----------



## ErinH

matdotcom is correct.

Actually, Scott asked me how I had mine wired up and we talked about how confusing the manual can be. I know I told scott to wire up constant 12v, ground, and remote turn on. I actually double checked my wiring to make sure. Maybe he just misspoke.


----------



## scooter99

matdotcom2000 said:


> Just curious to why you connected the igntion wire to the bitone?
> Normally there should only be three power connections
> v12 (battery)
> negative (ground)
> remote (from headunit)
> 
> If you just use those it will work like a charm(I have installed 2 of them). Also if you push and hold the volume button in on the bitone it will turn off. Hold it in push and hold again it should turn back on.


Yeah I figured out the holding the volume button down thing last night cause I was worried about it draining my battery. 

I was reading the manual and if I would've put the ignition wire in the key on it would've been fine, but yes I'm also remembering you saying to use those and I think I got too confused. I'm sure it was 230 in the morning when I installed that. Sometime when I probably should've been in bed instead of out working on my car. 

Thanks I'll cut that loose and see where it gets me.


----------



## scooter99

I also posted up on the 12volt forum about the led problems and they have advised me to switch or swap the 87 and 85 wires. Ooops. So I'll try that and see where we're at after that.


----------



## scooter99

BTW, I've got tons of pics to post up but I'll have to do that later. 

Also I broke my God D.... Camera! Sat on it on accident the other night, and it wouldn't have broken, even with my big ass sitting on it, accept the lanyard was under it and the little plastic stopper on the lanyard was on the screen and tha's where it broke! DAMN IT!  So not I have to call sony or somewhere and see about getting it fixed or seeing if it's worth fixing or buying a new one. So be forwarned that I've switched to my older camera and those pics may not be as clear near the ending of the posts because of that. 

Ok time to go spend some time with the family!!


----------



## JayinMI

[jedimindtrick]No. Post pics now. *We* are your family.[/Jedimindtrick]



















Did it work? No? Dammit...:mean:


----------



## scooter99

I know you are, and I love all of you equally, but my time must be spent with alllll of my family not just some of my family. HOLY **** I SOUND LIKE MY MOTHER!! 

Tonight I swear I'll put pics up! Gotta go pressure wash the patio and driveway! Winter was harsh for us!


----------



## scooter99

Ok I have another update. I've been working a little bit on the car tonight. Had a great session with the relays and found my issue with constant power on the radio. So I had a couple wires switched on the led relay and apparently have the same wires switched on the ignition relay. That's why I was reading constant power all the time. I put a meter on the wire harness from stock, and it was reading 12v with the keys in my pocket. THAT'S NOT GOOD IN ANY LANGUAGE!!! So then I unhooked the relay and I was back to normal. I turned on the key and had a reading. Turned it off and then no reading. SO I've fixed most of my issues as of now. 

While I was at it, I stripped the car of the things that don't need to be there. XDV-P6 brain and wires, Ipod module and wires, monitor amplifier and wires, stripped out all the video cables and saved one to run to the head unit, pulled out the platform that all that stuff was mounted too and now will have to reposition some stuff. Well all I'll have left on that board is the HD radio module. I've been kicking around the idea of the bluetooth again, but I'm not sure it worth it. So I've got all my relay info now, and I'm gonna go back out, install the 4200, bypass for it, ipod cable, and then fix my ignition problem. 

I also figured out some temporary tweeter and mid range pod configs to play for a while till I figure out what I'm going to do. I've got the Bit One software programmed and ready to go, although everything is just running flat at the moment. I'll worry about tuning it another time. So it's going to be a late night, but I promise promise promise pictures tomorrow first thing when I get into work! You guys will not be dissapointed! I swear!!

Ok back to work at 1100 at night. Mmmmmm, looking like a 230 bedtime for me! But shouldn't be too many more of these!! Woohoo!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so now that I've figured out where the hell I left off with the updates, here we go.

First up is the rear terminal block wiring, or preping. I had major issues with not drilling the holes before I covered it. Chalk it up to not doing this for a while I guess. So I had to uncover things and recover them after drilling. Here we go.



Terminals and relay layout.














Rats nest!


----------



## scooter99

Add the sub line.


Half a rats nest


Ok time to clean up and run the bit one rca's.

Screwed down some tabs for zipties.






Cleaned up the distro block as well. 







Ran all wires for the amps!


----------



## scooter99

Ready for amp wiring!


Had to plug in the RCA's before I could do anything else with the amps, since they're hidden. So I did that and screwed it down!




So then it was time to wire up the amps. THIS WAS A PAIN IN THE ASS!!! There is absolutely no room to work with on these amps. The I put it in a small confined area, which made it 100x worse! Anyway, I got it done! 

LRx 4.1K








LRx 6.9


----------



## scooter99

My Babies all wired up and completed!


The whole happy family together and powered up!!






So this is where I discovered my power problem. Nothing was working correctly. The Led's wouldn't work, the head unit and processor and in turn everything else wouldn't turn off with the key off which I thought was that I had the ignition and 12v backwards. Couldn't figure out why the led's wouldn't work though. So I did some searching and found out from the 12volt.com, that I had the relays wired up wrong. Well two wires were backwards, so I switched those and we are golden!!








So while doing all the troubleshooting etc. I decided F-it and I'd install the 4200. 

Made a new harness for the unit and the stock harness. 


Before I go any further I forgot about this part. I had an ignition relay in front as well. So I took out the 800prs and the dvd player and i got out the tester to check to see what was going on with the harness. SO I put the pin on the "ignition wire" on the stock harness and no key in the ign. and I got a reading! RUT RO!!! Well I sat and thought about it a bit and it dawned on me. If the led's relays were wrong then this one must have been as well.

So I got down to the relay and switched the wires I thought should be switched, and BANGO!!!! So what was happening was that since those wires were switched, it was feeding the 12v constant through the ignition wire. So after switching those wires, everything it working the way it's supposed to! Whew!! 

Also backtracking, on the bit one, I cut the ignition wire for the memory, and now only have the 12v, ground, and remote running. Although I'm assuming that because of the relay issue that's why I was having problems with this as well. 

Back to it!

I forgot to take a picture of the bypass. It's really simple to do. If anyone needs to know it's:

87 - Ground In
86 - Loop ground from 87 to here
85 - Head unit's remote wire
30 - Head unit's parking break wire

That's it! 

Here are the wires ready to be connected.


----------



## scooter99

Out with the old in with the new! Head unit in it's new home! Had to trim the outter trim ring a bit because the corners on the trim ring are rounded and the face of the unit is more squred. So it just didn't fit right, so I trimed it and it's happy now!!


Connecting wires!


In it's permanent resting place!! All warm and happy. 


Hang on, wipes tear from eye!

Ok I'm back, now to see if it works! 

It's on! Whew!!

Video? Bypass?

That's right Dora The Explorer FTW!!

Ipod?

Blurred picture but it's Dave Matthews Band, works!! 

Now I only have the rear fill speakers working right now. I've got the Bit One set up, but as you can see in some of the pictures, my tweeters and mid range are sitting on the dash waiting to be installed! Well by 330 last night that hadn't happened yet and I couldn't stay awake anymore!

So you've seen the trunk with LED's now here's the rest, or most of them anyway. I still have to fix the under seat led's. 

Passenger side floor and door handle 


Passenger side rear door handle


Driver side rear door handle


Driver side floor and door handle


----------



## scooter99

Behind the rear seat, the interior sub IB wall


Everything in the dark!






So that's it for now! My daughter was very happy this morning to be able to watch a movie and hear it on the way to daycare. Again have the rear fill working cause it's on it's own channel bypassing the bit one. 

Tonight I'm not going to be working on it. I stayed up way too late last night and now I need to take tonight to recover from that. Here's what left on the adjenda:

Install temporary mid range and tweeter pods for placement testing
Install SW controls and optical converter box when they come in
Make female connector video cables for the monitors and finish installation
Fix Ipod situation
Fix leds under seats
Make cover panels for the trunk
Install new distro block and re do battery panel
TUNE!! 

So there's really not much left to do to be done, for the most part! 

I reminded myself on the ipod thing. I tried to plug in the ipod cable to the base that I epoxied to the center console and ended up breaking it. So I'll have to go back to the drawing board on that one. Now I just ran the cable through that slot and hooked it straight to the ipod. 

So overall I'm very please with how things are looking and coming out! The only little quark I'm not very pleased with is that Bit One DRC. As you can see everything in my car is blue led. The screen on the DRC is blue but the buttons are shining red. I don't like that at all. It really stands out to me. Not sure what I can do about it, but that's the only thing right now I'm really unhappy with. Beyond that I'm very happy with the way it's all turning out! I'm anxious to get the rest of the system up and working! 

Comments, questions, feel free!


----------



## scooter99

Alright, I just got my SW Control unit! Woohoo!


----------



## kyheng

That's great!!!! But I've been 4 days no sound. Seems like my DEQ is beyond repair and I need to get replacement for the circuit board which cost. Initial thought was when Pioneer SC send me the new IC I should be getting my dead Low channel repaired. But when put in the IC, I got all 6 channels failed. Change back to the old IC, it is worst, I got no control at all, either no sound and or too loud..... So the new IC from Pioneer SC fried my other components. Now still need another day to confirm my next step. Lucky that I got your HU, so can watch soundless movies at the time being.


----------



## scooter99

Sorry to hear that man!


----------



## kyheng

Now have to know which board failed and they cost me $271 or $393..... What really shocked me is the new IC was faulty and cause me more trouble...... Was thinking to get RS-P70xII from FLeabay but the auction ended..... Now I only can pray for the best. Lucky that I managed to dig the service manual out which can really helps on troubleshootings. After 12 hours I will know my fate.....


----------



## scooter99

Well good luck buddy hope it all works out for you!


----------



## IBcivic

scott, you will look like one of the dudes from blue man group with all that led glow in there...lol oke:

the led effect on the cones in the trunk looks so cool


----------



## scooter99

Yea I'm pretty happy with it. They really are pretty subtle in person. It really really flows well, in my opinion anyway.


----------



## IBcivic

you know , i'm just jealous, right?:blush:


----------



## scooter99

It's ok buddy! You too can have a techno stage in your car!!!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so I have my first issue. One of my rear fill speakers, the only speakers that are working right now, is fading in and out as if I have a loose connection. Problem with that is that I can't just check the connections. Well I can at the amp but if it's an rca I have to pull up the amp because of them being under it, and if it's a speaker connection I have to remove the whole rear deck, and if it's behind the head unit well you know how that goes. So anyway minor issue but still annoying as it is. 

Also doing some research on learing how to tune. I would like help and I have plenty of it, but I would like to learn to do this also so I don't have to run to someone when it's time or if I feel something isn't sounding right. 

Tonight I plan to get the temp. pods installed for the front. Then i can sync. the bit one and get some music everywhere else. Not much gonna happen toonight though other than that. Still trying to recover from my early morning/late night on sunday night. 

Stay tuned!


----------



## kyheng

Keep everything flat on your 4200 and tune all from the Bit1. As for your rear, should not be much problem....

Anyway now I'm sure that I have to dump $200 for a new circuit board.


----------



## scooter99

Right, and I'm aware of that, but I still don't know the tuning process and that's what I'm trying to figure out by searching. Just hard to do right now at work, and I'm not ready for it yet anyway so I don't want to try and search it all and then have to remember again how to do it. Anway bottom line is that I'm looking around on here and the net to try and figure it out. 

Sorry to hear about your board man!!


----------



## angelspeedfreak

scooter99 said:


> Right, and I'm aware of that, but I still don't know the tuning process and that's what I'm trying to figure out by searching. Just hard to do right now at work, and I'm not ready for it yet anyway so I don't want to try and search it all and then have to remember again how to do it. Anway bottom line is that I'm looking around on here and the net to try and figure it out.
> 
> Sorry to hear about your board man!!


When you do find the answers you seek (tuning wise) make sure to let us know. I have been looking for a good place to find tunning advise as well.

Everything is looking really good, your attention to detail is still holding strong.....


----------



## ErinH

check the tutorials section...
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/438228-post7.html


----------



## scooter99

Thank you very much. I'm not sure after looking already I'm going to find a really good one stop source for this, I think I'm going to have to take multiple sources and apply them as I can and figure out my own sound. I keep hearing about the Autosound 2000 cd set for tuning but haven't found them anywhere. I see them in cds 101 102 103 104 and 105 but nothing about a set. What does each one do, how do I know when to use which disc etc. 

*If anyone here has these cd's then I'll pay you to burn me a copy of them. *

So I'm still researching basically! Thanks for the kind words BTW!


----------



## ErinH

Scott, your best bet is to get to a comp or GTG once you get your car put together. Get some advice on HOW to tune (don’t just let someone start tuning for you). Get advice on music, test tracks, etc to use and then find out how they use them.

If you want to give me a call when it comes time for you to start tuning I’ll be glad to walk you through the more basic approaches. Fine tuning, though, is really hard. That’s where you’ll need help and a second set of ears of someone you trust.


----------



## scooter99

That's a good point. I think I keep getting wrapped up in wanting to be good for the comp. not going for the reason to learn. I have to get that in my head. Also great page suggestion. Thanks! I hadn't started searching here yet. I'll look at this more.


----------



## kyheng

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diy-mobile-audio-sq-forum/60729-focal-jmlab-cds.html
Got this for you to download.... Got another thread but don't know where already.....
Still using your favorite songs to tune is the best. Sometimes I not that trust on those test CDs as they are remastered....

Some basic steps(fast) on tuning :
1. knowing your driver's FS values(to protect your drivers and amps) so that you don't crossed them near that value. 
2. level matching of equipment. You got a good combinations of them as their sensitivity is same at 92db. 
3. As for crossover points I suggest that(a general guide only)
midbass LPF 250hz, HPF 80Hz, slope -24dB(I still prefer -36dB)
midrange LPF 8000Hz, HPF 300Hz, slope -24dB
Tweeter LPF 20000Hz, HPF 8000Hz, slope -24dB
Sub HPF 20Hz, LPF 63-80Hz, slope -24dB

Is ok anyway, as long as is my repairer can 100% confirm is the bottom circuit board failed, if not, more damage to my walet if the top board failed(all the DAC are in the top board)


----------



## foxracer47101

can anyone hook me up with some focal, hertz, morel, dynaudio, rainbow, anything along thoose lines. willing to spend up to 450.


----------



## scooter99

You should check in the classifieds section!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so I just came in and I'm pretty freakin irritated! I got my temp front pods installed and connected and am now ready to get them and everything else working. So I go get the lap top and start pluging it in and start getting stuff set up. Everything is going fine, I get the connections done and read and I start playing a cd and I notice I've only got one side working! WTF! SO I start checking things out and realized that in my late night haste, I'm sure, I put one rca in the aux port and one in the number one master port. Well no wonder I only had one side working. So I unplugged it and got it in the right port. 

So I go back and reset everything and it says it updated successfully. Well then I go to adjust some stuff and all of a sudden it says the bit one isn't connected to retry. And then it can never find the bitone again. So after working with it for about an hour now, I gave up. I'm wondering if I have the rca's in the back of the head unit switched and it's really the rear rca's that I have going to the bit one not the front. Actually the reason I think that is because I have the rears playing right. Well if I'm listening to a cd or ipod or whatever, and I turn off the bit one, those rears turn off also............oh **** nevermind. I just realized that the amps turn on by the bit one remote out so of course when I turn that off the amps will turn off and the rear speakers are in one of the amps. 

God I'm so frustrated and irritated! Why would it all of a sudden not read the bit one. After it even says that it's updated successfully, I now still have no sound. WTF!!! Now when I had sound, the right side is where I had sound from. The right side RCA was in the aux port not the left. So is the bit one maybe seeing the aux port as the master not the ch1 and ch2? Damn and I already put my car away! I'm gonna go see now! 

Can anyone tell I'm a little tired and frazzled!!


----------



## kyheng

Are you trying to say that you lost the connection between your laptop and Bit1? I guessthis is norm.... Especially you are using Windows XP. Trying restarting your laptop and see how it goes.

Don't get frustrated man(compare to mine, yours is small matter), all your stuffs are new and they should work(atleast on the hardwares), now you may have some small problem with software issues. Don't worry much my friend..... If laptop cannot tune, the DRC still able to adjust some settings(I guess).


----------



## scooter99

Yea I didn't think about that. 

Well I went out and tried switching the rca's to no avail! However, I did fix my rear fill problem. I pulled the rear speaker and the connections were good, and so I took it to the amp and did a test connection to the other side speaker that's working. It worked so it's not the driver. Then I decided to pull the amp and look at the rca's. Well when I did that I couldn't even pull the amp up after the screws were out. So that told me one thing. THE RCA'S WERE TOO DAMN TIGHT!!! So I pulled them out a bit from the zipties and gave em some slack. PUlled up the amp and sure enough one of the rca's came loose enough to cause an issue. Pushed that bish on tighter and we're going well now. 

I gotta say, since we're on the subject, those Hertz 4 inch coaxals are freaking nice! I have the gain turned all the way down on the amp and I turned those things up pretty well on a Dave Matthews CD and they're pretty damn clear! Nice sound, especially for rear fills! I'm very pleased with those! I thought about going up to the High Energy coaxals but I think this will do just fine for their application. I'm pretty sure that the only time they're gonna see any significant music in any hard sort of application, is in the next few days until I figure out the bit one problem and get some front stage going. We'll have to push em and see just how good they really can be. Obviously not much bass response but the highs are pretty responsive and subtle and the voice range is very nice on the mid itself. Again I'm very pleased! Especially now with two playing instead of just the one I've been listening to all day! LOL! 

Ok I said no more late night and here it is 1 am! I gotta go to bed! 

Kyheng, thanks! It's gonna get better for you buddy I can feel it! Keep your head held high! 

Goodnight!


----------



## kyheng

Is goodnight to you but good evening to me, haha. That's Microsoft products, if it doesn't crash, then it is call Softmicro.....

I'm doing nothing now but still waiting the final post-mortem. If the DSP unit failed I'll just change that and live with 1 dead Low channel(midbass is not important for me anyway as I'm crossing them at 250Hz and Y-splitter). I've been discussing with my repairer and wonder why there's water mark on the circuit board. We both conclude that Pioneer SC won't do such mistake, Apparently the jerk that sold the combo to me had tempered the board last time.


----------



## scooter99

That sux!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so here's what I'm going to do today, I've decided. I'm going to get out the laptop and clear the bit one software off the computer. I'm going to reset the bit one, and then reload the software and start fresh all over again. 

However, if anyone has any suggestions, i'm all ears!


----------



## kyheng

^No need, you only need to disconnect your laptop and Bit1, then restart the laptop and connect Bit1 again. This is due to USB driver or other system files partial corrupted. Not much action you have to take anyway on such issues. I see you are quite near to your goal but yet I feel it is still far away(need to get your sweetest spot on tweeters and midrange).....

I know it is really sux, but once I get the new board, I'll compare both of them(hope they don't want to take back the old board)......


----------



## scooter99

Yeah that's my feeling, so close yet so much work to do!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so I'm starting to loose it with the processor. I've done everything the instructions say to do. I've even uninstalled all the drivers and reinstalled them per instructions as well as the software. It is simply not staying connected after the input tuning is done. I put in the cd for the input sensetivity tuning and it gets all that and then updates the bit one. But if I click on anything else it disconnects from the bit one and I cannot get it to reconnect with it. WTF AM I DOING WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I just spent my entire lunch hour out in the car with my laptop and the novel of instructions and went through it twice. WHY DOES THIS NOT WORK! CAN SOMeONE PLESE TELL ME!!


----------



## scooter99

Well ladies and gentlemen, 89 days ago I embarked on a huge project and a mission of getting a better sound system become more in the sound quality world. So after 89 days, 812 post, 20,420 views, countless hours of install, and let's not forget the last two most frustrating days of trying to figure out the damn Bit One installation, I have finally achieved a musical front stage...bowing...... Yes folks it's finally working and I'm finally able to hear the drivers in which I have been working so hard to make come alive. It's a proud moment in my life right now. 

I still have a long road a head of me. I have hours of fine tuning, things to finish cosmetically, and things to install. But I feel I have made a great leap over a very large hurdle today. 

ON that note, I've recieved, yesterday, my carpet and spray adhesive from PE along with some threaded inserts for the plexi panels. I also received today, Thanks Vince, my optical converter. I also received the other day my Axxess SW interface. So those are things that will make their way into the car sometime in the next few days. I will also be making my "pig tail extensions" for the video cables on the head rests. That's all I've been waiting on to get those working. My daughters will be extatic about that. 

Of course there's the ever tedious amp gain adjustments and the line in calibration on the processor, and then of course the countless hours tuning. I'll spend a few weeks in the car with the temp pods where the are now and see how it plays out. I have the tweeters on the stock grills in the dash screwed in from under neith and they actually are adjustable a little bit. Probably enough to get where I want to wth them. Then once i've achieved my spots, so to speak, I'll create my a pillars. 

I also need to still recreate the center console hub, since the ipod section is all f-ed up. But that's not so important cause I was able to pass the cord through and it is working. But it's still something that will need to be addressed. 

So there we have it, the monkey, and my wife, will now be off my back for the moment. I can back off a touch on the late nights and make my family happy. 

Comments, as always are very very welcome! Thank you everyone for your continued support and following me and my build. There is still so much to do, so don't leave me just yet.


----------



## IBcivic

scooter99 said:


> Well ladies and gentlemen, 89 days ago I embarked on a huge project and a mission of getting a better sound system become more in the sound quality world. So after 89 days, 812 post, 20,420 views, countless hours of install, and let's not forget the last two most frustrating days of trying to figure out the damn Bit One installation, I have finally achieved a musical front stage...bowing...... Yes folks it's finally working and I'm finally able to hear the drivers in which I have been working so hard to make come alive. It's a proud moment in my life right now.
> 
> So there we have it, the monkey, and my wife, will now be off my back for the moment. I can back off a touch on the late nights and make my family happy.


epper:epper:epper: congrats man!

now here is a way to keep that monkey busy...now you can sell me your alarm system


----------



## scooter99

I've seen that before! ROTFLMAO!!!! Makes me laugh everytime! Oh crap I had forgotten about that monster! Well it'll get done, just not sure when!


----------



## matdotcom2000

My question is how does it sound???


----------



## scooter99

You know what, without tuning a damn thing, it sounds killer. I'm very pleased with it right now. I can't wait unitl after monday when I actually start tuning it up! Honestly, maybe it's cause I've been without for 3 months but really it sounds awesome!!


----------



## mSaLL150

scooter99 said:


> Yes folks it's finally working and I'm finally able to hear the drivers in which I have been working so hard to make come alive. It's a proud moment in my life right now.


Good stuff man! Hope to hear it sometime.


----------



## scooter99

Well hopefully I'll have it tuned in soon and we can meet up sometime. Love to hear your truck too.


----------



## IBcivic

ok....i know you are not tuned,yet, but... how does your midbass sound?


----------



## scooter99

I'm not sure. I'm trying to diferentiate it all. The mid range and tweeters are very defined right now and I'm not telling a difference between the subs and mid bass I don't think. I'll pay more attention this weekend when I get a moment and see if I can make a determination for you. I can feel them in my doors, when I lean on the armrest. They feel very tight and nice, not overpowering, but I can't tell enough with the sound. I'm also not very experienced with the sound of mid bass vs mid range etc. I'm used to having it all wrapped up into one with a 2 way component passive set. 

It's gonna take me some time to learn about the different sounds and how I like it and what I dislike and stuff to determine my final positions. I have a feeling I'm a long way away from understanding all the different tonalities of the system.


----------



## kyheng

Some orchestra songs may able to help you..... But as long as there's not much overlaping frequencies between each others, you should able to feel what is what. A properly blended sound system is you can't listen where they come from, you can only feel them. Example is, drum is you can feel it somewhere below chest level(if you can get them on top you head, it means something wrong), vocals at your ears level and so on.


----------



## scooter99

Ok so I've been playing with the gains to hear the mid bass and just listen to the sounds of them........ WOW THESE THINGS SOUND FREAKIN KILLER!!! I'm gonna play with it some more and dial it in a bit. I'v got to get the mid range and tweets dialed a little better and then move em around. I can tell a little difference in the way I move around so they're pretty right on the driver seat. But I want to make sure they're not too much on axis. 

My velcro is failing on the passenger side which is causing my passenger side mid range to fall. So i'll have to screw it into the pillar tonight so it will stay in one place. 

Overall I think, by what I've heard so far, that these will be the final resting places and postions for these pods. I'll make them into one apillar piece wiht fiberglass and bondo etc in the end. But I think these will work just fine where they are. 

I've got some stuff to do this weekend to dial in the install, before I start making the finishing panels. I'll update on monday with pics if I've done anything to it.


----------



## kyheng

Are you in the hurry? Hope you are not..... Mistakes always done when a person are in the hurry. Guess you should know this by now.
What I will do now is, I will leave it as it is and let some of your friends to listen and give comment. Or let wife your wife to comment. Sometimes a noob's comment is better than pro's comment.
I will play the drivers in the same location for a week or two and then change the locations abit(like from on to off axis). Midbass you can't do much, but your midrange and tweeter is like devil sometimes, especially tweeters.


----------



## IBcivic

scooter99 said:


> Ok so I've been playing with the gains to hear the mid bass and just listen to the sounds of them........ WOW THESE THINGS SOUND FREAKIN KILLER!!!


i am glad you are not disappointed...it kind of makes me regret letting them go...but hell, if they make you happy..it's all good


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## scooter99

Thanks Martin, I'm very very . 

As for being in a hurry, yes and no answer to that. I am cause it's almost been 4 months since I started this and I'm ready for it to be done to move on. No because I know abou tbeing in a hurry and making mistakes. Don't want that. I'm in no rush, but I also need to figure out how to do it all. I appreciate the input so don't think anything else on that. I'm just trying to figure out sound etc so I know what is best and what just simply doesn't work. That's just where I'm at right now. 

Thanks for everyones input and suggestions! It's much appreciated!


----------



## IBcivic

huh?....no updated pics? 

quit teasing me on the p-m's and gt those pics loaded up,man!


----------



## scooter99

Ok guys and gals, sorry for the lack of updates. Things have been a little hectic and crazy around my life. So really not much work has been done to it, but some has! Here is a little review of what is going on now. 

*Bit One and Level Setting*
Last I left you I was having issues with the Bit One, and I've got those worked out now. Now it's just a matter of tuning it up and getting the sound the way I like it and seeing where that gets me. The problem I have at the moment is that I'm not sure really how to get my levels adjusted on the head unit. I've looked and read some of the threads on here and I have some questions, but before i just come out and ask I'm trying to research it and reread these threads and try to understand it myself before I just ask. But I ahve music, it's playing and sounding good, although not nearly as good as I'd like it too. I'm a highs person, so I like my symbols to be right out at me, and the words to be clear and crisp. Haven't gotten that yet out of the system but to be quite honest I've done nothing as far as tuning yet. So really it's a little premature to review on that yet. 

*Mid Range and Tweeters*
Thus far I'm very happy with the positioning of the mid ranges and tweets. I think they're playing well with the directions of which they are pointing. Ier'm going to try, after this week, to point them off axis and see if I can tell a difference and if so what kind of difference. Is it better or worse etc. 

*Mid bass and Subs aka Low End *
I'm having some issues with what my mid bass is supposed to sound like. As a highs guy, I'm also a lows guy. I love bass, and a lower bass tone. However I'm not an SPL guy. I can't stand to sit in a car that all I hear is bass and nothing else. So that being said, I'm having some issues with dialing in that low end. The bass sounds good comming from the subs so I'm not thinking I have any air leakage in the wall which is a huge relief for me. Although with that being said, at the moment, I've got the gains turned up on the amp about 3/4 or more on the subs to get a good bass response. Seems a little high to me on those gains, but maybe not. 

When I first got music playing I had everything set flat and really hadn't done anything with the settings. The mid bass was kickin pretty well. I could really feel it in the doors, which sound really solid by the way. So I'm very happy with those and the way they've been installed. Now after messing with them a bit on the Bit One I've seemed to have lost the kick on them. That, I'm sure, all goes back to the tuning and not knowing what I'm doing. So originally I really liked the way the mid basses felt. However that being said, all seemed to be getting was bass out of them. Am I supposed to be getting voice as well or is it essentially a smaller sub for the fronts? That's what I need to figure out. 

*Some Crossover Setting*
So moving along, I took the suggestions of Kyheng and set my crossovers to the numbers he provided. After that I just wasn't sure if I had done something wrong or what cause I had lost, what I can only describe as, depth. It just seemed like it was too much high and not enough low. Don't know if that made sense. So I played with it a bit and got it to where I felt like it was good enough for now. I also set the distances of each driver. Although after doing some listening and looking, I don't think I have settings correct. I think I either have speaker wires crossed or rca's crossed cause I noticed at one point that some of the drivers were right and should've been left, and vise versa. I haven't had time to explore that anymore. 

*Head Unit*
Lastly I've been absolutely IN LOVE with the Pioneer AVH-P4200DVD. This thing is nothing short of amazing to me. The IPOD interface is absolutely flawless. There is no lag what so ever in choices and the search features are wonderful. Very easy to use and even easier to navigate. I've menchioned before there is a couple things I have to address and fix to operate it correctly, and once I do that, I'll be putting up my review of it. But rest assured it will be a positive one! 

*Installation*
Just a very quick review of the installation. Overall I'm very pleased with the way it's turned out thus far. But there are some things that need to be addressed and things that I need to change at a later date. I'll get to all that as well when I'm done. 

So I think I've covered everything at the moment. I know that I need to post pictures and I'll be doing that. Just be patient, it's bath time and bed time for the kidos! Once I'm done with that I'll post up some pictures tonight. That's it, be back in a bit!!


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## scooter99

amitaF said:


> huh?....no updated pics?
> 
> quit teasing me on the p-m's and gt those pics loaded up,man!


Sorry bro, pics are loaded but it's time for the kids to get bath and to bed. I'll post them up in a little while! I promise!!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so here we go! 

Today I did some finish work on the trunk. Got the floor done and the trims back in.

Before Pics






Here is the template. Had to add some paper to it to make up for the taper of the trunk. 


Cut out the component areas






Transfered to the MDF.


Now as much as I'd have loved to do this in one piece and just thow it in the trunk, no way that happens. So I had to piece it together which works out because the center piece with the amp rack has to be able to be lifted up anyway. 

Amp rack cover


Amp rack surround.


----------



## scooter99

Distribution Side










Bit One Side








The front component surrounds are cut out.


----------



## scooter99

Next I put in the rear panel. 


And then after looking at it, I was too leary about it being that close to the subs. It was sitting about 5/8 to 3/4 from the sub and so I added another 3/4" of space. Then instead of just cutting it square, I decided a rounded off look would be better. 

My rounding template.






Ahhh much better!




Now it was time to cover it all up. I decided to go inside for this because the wind was crazy today! Didn't want to have to fight the saw dust and dirt putting this stuff on.


Distribution block cover




Bit One cover


----------



## scooter99

In place.


I forgot to take befores of the amp rack cover but here it is in place with the other three!


Time to cover the surrounds.
Terminal panel








Distribution block panel


----------



## kyheng

^I got no interest on your back.... I prefer o see your front(especially the midrange and tweeter).........

Atlast, I pulled the trigger, I order the circuit board and have to wait for 3 weeks atleast.


----------



## scooter99

Bit One Side




Time for the amp rack panel






Close ups without leds on


----------



## scooter99

Close ups with leds on 






So here's the full array, however I decided the leds that shine on the subs were way to dim. So I moved them!

Before.


After.


So that's it for now. I'm gonna go out and shoot some night shots of the leds on. I'll post those in a little while. 

Comments welcome!


----------



## scooter99

kyheng said:


> ^I got no interest on your back.... I prefer o see your front(especially the midrange and tweeter).........
> 
> Atlast, I pulled the trigger, I order the circuit board and have to wait for 3 weeks atleast.


Ok well this is where I am in the project. Be patient I'll make my way forward at some point! Only so much time in the day with 2 children a wife and a full time job!


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## scooter99

Ok night time pics!


----------



## bmwproboi05

what kind of distro is this. FINAL INSTALL :: DSC02083.jpg picture by 99scooter - Photobucket

i want to get one


----------



## scooter99

It's and Audison Connection SFD-41C. Here's the link to their site

SFD 41C

I love it personally. I think they could've beefed up the base a bit but aside of that this thing is a beast! Wonderful! Expensive, but wonderful!!


----------



## bmwproboi05

how much are we talking about?


----------



## sydmonster

This boot has come a long way.....





...baby.

COngrats mang, it looks really good on the photos, so can only better in reality.


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## scooter99

Thank you very much. As to the price on the db, I can't remember exactly but I think it was in the 150.00 to 175.00 range. But well worth it I think.


----------



## IrishPilot

Diggin the Firedancer


----------



## scooter99

Thanks. I'm a huge DMB fan! I got that at the Gorge a couple years ago. I'm thinking of getting two more and taking that one off and putting them in the rear windows. But we'll see.


----------



## scooter99

Well no new updates at the moment. I've got my little list of things to do, but with the weekend being easter there was no work done this weekend. So I'm going to try and get some stuff done this week and weekend but it's gonna be a busy week. I'll update as i can! Thanks everyone for following!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so a small update. I'm an idiot and Amitaf pointed it out to me! Not in those words but whatever! So apparently I had my subs wired wrong in an 8 ohm load. FAIL! No wonder I had the amp 3/4 up and not much output. DUH!! So I changed the wires, OMG!!!!!!!!!! WOW what a difference!! So that's it now. I still have to get in an tune it a little bit. That's all for now.


----------



## instalher

very nice.... but with all that quality work iam a little suprised that the wires comming out of the bit one are all crooked sept the 3rd last rca which is strait... not complaining just pointing that out...


----------



## scooter99

Thanks for pointing that out!


----------



## scooter99

Ok well I haven't been able to do anything as of today, but I thought I'd give some update as to what my thoughts are after playing with this system for a couple weeks. 

First thing I'm going to change is this. My rear's that I'm running via the deck through the rear outputs to the amp are getting changed. I'm going to re make the two y rca's like I had befrore. One for the subs and one for the rear. I'm sick dealing with it through the head unit. I'm going to just change it and operate it through the bit one. then I'll have to play with my settings so it's on a function with the remote. 

I'm still playing with positions, well not really I haven't had a chance to switch the positions on the mid ranges yet. I really like that they're right there, but I want to hear them the other way before I make my final decision. 

That's really it right now. I have some work to do, but no time to do it right now. Grrrr! Still have to make the rear sub panel my priority however, my daughter was putting her fold up chair in my trunk the other day and had I have not see her, she'd almost put it right through a sub. So, in not yelling at her cause it wasn't her fault, I said that's it I'm building this thing quickly so I don't loose any subs. Whew! 

I'll update as I get stuff done. Sorry for the lack of progress lately! Lots going on with life! Stay tuned!


----------



## scooter99

Oh forgot to add in, the subs are breaking in and they're freaking nice! Anyone even remotely thinking of doing the IB set up i highly reccomend the Acoustic Elegance Line up of IB subs. I don't know about the 12's AmitaF is running but I can definitly vouche for the 15's. Man they're strong!! I love em!!! I still have to cut the center pass through out but just through the seats with no real air flow to the cabin, they're bad ass!! I can't imagine how much more is going to shine through when I get that pass through cut out!


----------



## IBcivic

the difference will be minute....[3 x12 vs. 2 x15] 
the pass through and swiss cheese the metal seat back, with a hole saw.
sound to me that you are a closet bass-head oke:


----------



## scooter99

Well I must admit I do love the bass! However, I wanna hear more than just bass too. I really need to tune this bish in!! It does really sound good though. Even with no tuning to speak of.


----------



## scooter99

Ok updates. Well there really are no updates on performance. Still waiting to see if I get my coilovers soon. Gonna have to wait on wheels for a while I think. Money had to go elsewhere at the moment. 

Going to be changing out the rear suspension tonight with the si suspension. I'll take pics when that's done. 

To the audio. A couple of things are going on with this. I'm trying to figure out how to do the rear fill and deal with those issues. I'm having a problem with acutally controling volume with them and right now I'm doing it by fading front to rear. So when the fade is all the way forward, it's all but rear fill. The more I put it to the middle the more that the rear fill turns up. 

It's kind of a pain in the ass to deal with it that way. I was going to hook it up to the sub output and switch it to full range but I'm not seeing where there's a volume control for the subs. I'll have to check further into that. 

But I was also thinking about runnig it through the bit one as I discussed originally but I'm going to face the volume issue there as well cause even if I do get it set to a specific setting on the remote I'm not going ot be able to turn it up or down with out effecting the rest of the system. Of course I guess I could just simply set it at a decent level with the rest of the system and then I could just leave it at that so when it's on that setting I could simply turn up the entire system to a certain comfortable point. Get all that? Alright then! 

The other question I have, since we're talking about it, is rather than use the bit one remote volume for my main up and down volume, can I turn it up to a certain point where I would normally and then control my volume from the head unit. I ask this cause I'm going to be putting in the steering wheel interface and I would like to control volume with that if I can. 

The next things I'm thinking about are big projects that I'm sure my wife will be quite unhappy about. 

I'm thinking of abandoning the pillar pods for the midranges. Don't throw stuff at me please! I'm having to build over the lower half of the doors anyway to cover up some stuff from a previous build and I wanted to open up the grill for the mid basses. So I 'm going to build a new pod to house thd mid basses and the mid ranges separatly but in the same big pod. Then I'll cover all that up and color match it. 

Next project is like another person has done already. I'm gong to take an old dash kit and utilize it to move the heater controls to below the dash and then move my Bit One remote to just under the head unit. The more and more that I look at the center console that I've built the less and less I like it. 

The tweeters will move into the windows of the apillars pointed right towards the driver but in smaller less conspicuous pods. The a pillars will be covered in grill cloth or some other fabric to match the headliner and other colors. 

That's all for now. These are projects that are probably pretty far off but are ones that I'm contimplating none the less. 

Comments and suggestions or questions are welcome as always!


----------



## sydmonster

hmm,... rear fill. A person on our local forum suggested this.

_If you're feeling adventurous, one of the best ways to widen your stage is to add a prologic II rear fill. If you don't have a processor to do it, the signal going to the rear speakers needs to be:

*delayed by about 15-25 ms
*Left and right need to be summed but one of them needs the polarity reversed
*bandlimited from about 350hz to 4khz

Then just adjust the volume of the rears until they are just audible but not dragging the stage backwards, and hey presto! Deeper center stage, and much more width! _


----------



## scooter99

That's something to consider. But I only have the rears on when I have the movies playing for the kids. So I'm not sure I want it on all the time. Just looking for an easier way to do it.


----------



## scooter99

Well folks things have come to a grinding hault on everything to do with my car right now. I'm in limbo until friday to find out if I still have a job or not. Things are not so great money wise at work and I have a feeling I might be out of a job on friday! Sucks but I guess it's life. I'm already looking for a new one, but that's no overnight gig ya know. I'll update as I can.


----------



## kritiostodd

What do you do for work? PM if you prefer.


----------



## scooter99

Well I kind of have two jobs. I'm a general contractor, I have my license anyway but with the economy the way it is, it's too hard to get work right now, and my now full time job because of that is legal assistant (which is a glorified name for file clerk) at a Workers Compensation office. We work for the applicant. So I'm kind of screwed two fold right now!


----------



## sydmonster

best of luck!!!! i was made redundant late last year (with no warning) so I know how you feel.


----------



## kyheng

Is bad to hear this..... Seems like global economy never recover since the 2008 crisis.... But then alot of people keep on saying economy are good now.


----------



## scooter99

Well I'll find out tomorrow what's going to happen. Hopefully we'll just have a furlough day but either way I gotta try and get some things sold so I can get my credit card paid off. Keep your fingers crossed.


----------



## eXcelon969

any pics of amp LED placement? i'm clueless as how to do my lighting.

thanks


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## scooter99

What do yo mean? As in where they're at for the amp rack?


----------



## mmiller

I hope things work out for ya Mang!


----------



## scooter99

Thanks. I actually just got an email from my supervisor (MOM HEHE!!) saying that a final decison won't be made until May 15th. But there are a couple of options and I've asked some questions I'm waiting to get answers to before I make any final decisions. I'll keep everyone posted when I find out what's going on.


----------



## eXcelon969

yeah just pics of how you did your lighting


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## scooter99

Let me see what I can find. What I did was for the amps, I made some strips that were about a half inch to 3/4 short of the full width of the area. Made them flush to the top and used led strips from ebay and stuck them to the bottoms of the strips so the shine down to the floor not out. For the processor and the db, I made some blocks that were about an inch less than the outline of the units and then wrapped them with suede, and and then stuck the leds on the outside perameter of the blocks. Then they shine out to give the floating effect. 

I wanted to and originally planned to do the same thing with the amps but that would've made them way to tall. So that's why that rack is different. It still gives a good effect with the lighting, but I'd have been much happier with them under the amps. 

I'll look for pictures, I know there are some on here somewhere, but I'll see what I can come up with in photobucket.


----------



## scooter99

Here's the db with the block in with the leds wrapped around it.
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/99scooter/FINAL INSTALL/DSC01516.jpg

Here is the processor with the block ready to go in, wrapped with leds.
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/99scooter/FINAL INSTALL/DSC01450.jpg

I can't seem to find any that show the amp rack led's real well.


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## scooter99

Ok so after two weeks of laying low, I'm back on. If you will recall I was sweating my job and whether or not I was going to loose it or not. Well i found out Fiday that i'm all good. No layoffs, pay cuts, furloughs, or anything. I'm safe finally. 

So now that that's over and done with, I'll be gearing back up to get this car finished. I've got some busy schedules comeing up on weekends but I'm going to try and sneak in some time soon to get things finished up. I have a little list of things to finish and then the finalizing. 

*Things to install:*
Optical converter box
Steering Wheel Interface
Switch for the relay from the ignition
Alarm w/ window modules and sunroof module

*Projects to complete or start:*
Cut out pass through with screen in back seat center console.
Cover back of the seat with matching carpet.
Cover all trims in the trunk with matching carpet. 
Make beauty trim panel to cover and protect the subs as well as hide the stuff behind the wall, i.e. insualtion etc. 
Make some kind of trim rings for the motor sides of the subs to hide wood.
Apillar pods to be completed
Re do center console - remove the DRC, Ipod, Switch unit and relocate. 
Remove the heater/a/c controls and relocate like AMITAF has done (see his thread to understand this process, NICE WORK FRIEND!).
Install DRC for Bit One in the old Heater/A/C area. Also install switches under that area. (Going back with non led switches and they will be painted to match the dash (not sure about this yet). 
Move the Ipod to and install flushmounted into the center console. Also going to create a flap in suede to cover the Ipod and secure with velcro.
Possibly redo the RCA's to run everything through the Bit One vs. Rears through the head unit. 
Remove stock door panel grills and replace with either Millie grills or grill cloth. 
Re install completely the battery panel under the hood. Possibly going to fiberglass some kind of enclosure now. New ideas are looming for sure!! 

*Things to fix:*
Rear head rest monitors, driver side monitor does not turn on and off with the switch, but passenger side does. 
Re configure the fuse panel under the passenger seat to remove things that were not used, i.e. visor monitors, extra dvd player, etc. 
Rattle, possibly a wire that came loose in the door, in the passenger door panel or a pillar. 
Leds under the seats that do not work for some reason. Don't understand why. 
Alarm led in the passenger door that I blew. 
Rattle in the rear deck, when bassey it does vibrate quite a bit causeing a rattle that's noticeable for sure. 
Figure out how to cover the door panels up front to cover the old tweeter holes. 

*Non Audio:*
RE-Upholster the interior. Head liner, front seats, rear seats, consoles, shift boot, pillars, and possibly rear deck. This will be a two tone theme. Charcoal grey and black.
I'd also like to change out the carpet in the car. There are some serious stains on the floors that are just not going to come out. It's currently grey, and I'd like to go black I think, or a darker grey. 

*Concerns:*
Last week it got to be in the lower 80's here in sacramento. I've been playing pretty bassy music, well lets just say I've been impressed with the response of the subs so I've been playing bass pretty low and loud. Not exactly sq but it's nice to know that I have that capability. Anyway, this was in the afternoon after the car was sitting all day. The amp shut off. If you recall this is the amp that runs both the subs and the mid bass. I got to my destination a few blocks later, opened up the trunk and i could feel, as I pulled the cover off the amp rack, the heat coming off the amp. So that being considered, should do a couple things and I'm looking for suggestions here. 

My pocket book says, maybe figure out how to install some fans in there to vent it out. If I could vent in from the cabin, where the cool air is with the a/c on, that would be ideal. Then vent out through the side vents of the trunk to the outside. I don't think this is very realistic considering my application. 

My head says, pick up an Audison LRx 1.1K for the subs and then use the LRx 4.1K for the mid bass. Or Sell the LRx 4.1K, pick up an LRx 1.1K for the subs, and an LRx 2.9 for the mid bass. Obviously that's the most expensive route.

To that effect, I'm considering going with another HC1200 in the trunk for extra power. I'm not convenced right now cause I'm not having any issues at the moment with the existing power. I also don't sit in a parking lot and play the thing. However, if I went with a third amp, and I have the room in my db btw to add a third so i wouldn't have to adjust any of that, I would for sure have to think about how to add a second battery. I may have to go with two extra batteries for size reasons. If that were the case, I'll go with two HC800's instead of the HC1200 or HC1400. These are just thoughts. 

Another thing I'm wondering, about the DRC, is to extend the cable up front cause I don't have enough slack to extend it to the heater control area for that application. I would have to break the seal around the wall in order to pull the cable out to give me enough slack. Is it worth it, or can I just cut it and solder wires to extend it. Is it that simple or are there a bunch of little wires in there for everything? 

I think that's all I've got for now. Lots of things to do, and I'm now trying to make myself in no hurry to do them. I've still got the DVD player to sell along with other stuff, but noone here seems to be buying anything. So until I get that done, some of this stuff won't be able to happen. However, most of the rest of it I have either funds for or already have the equipment for. 

*Finally:*
I've been listening to this thing for quite a bit now at a flatish level. I'm very very pleased with the way the front stage is sounding, as far as the mid range and tweeter locatioins. I never did get to adjust them to another direction, and I still think I want to do that, however, I'm so happy with the way they are I'm not sure I want to do that. 

I'm open to comments and suggestions or anything really on all this. Sorry it was so long, but that's what's been building for the last two weeks.

Also be on the look out for my boat build thread. I did a boat for a buddy of mine this last weekend and it turned out awesome. First time ever. Anyway, look out for it and I'll post it up here when I get a chance to. 

That's it for now!! OUT!


----------



## kyheng

^Looks like you got a long list to do.... Now I just need to make my amp rack and waiting for the enclosure to be done. Atleast it will be good for now.

BTW, is good to hear that you still got your job, considering there's lots of people lost their job.


----------



## scooter99

yea I don't want to sound too excited cause I don't wanna piss people off that are loosing their job but at the same time, I'm excited. Good to hear on your project. Can't wait to see it.


----------



## kyheng

I posted here for my own simple build log.... just "downgraded" my amp from JL Audio to Pioneer but the sound was being upgraded slightly. Never know that the cost is only half from my JL but the sound it produce is better than JL. Best of all, only 22W per channel.


----------



## scooter99

I just saw that. Good for you. Sounding good huh?


----------



## kyheng

Yes sir, but I need another 2 channel amp as my midbass now sounds weak compare to last time. Need to crank my volume up by 10dB, turn down 10dB on High and Mid with EQ boost on midbass for another 10dB then only sounds better. But that's the plan in the begining. Get this 6 channel small amp and test it out. If good another 2 channel for midbass and the 6 channel amp's Low output as rear fill to complete my DVD system...

What I will like to stess that, on this amp change, conclusion I made is tweeter and midrange does not need much power but midbass do need more power to make them work properly.


----------



## scooter99

Well I've made my decision if I can either sell or trade my dvd player and my LRx 4.1k for an LRx 1.1K and an LRx 2.9. Or I'll just keep the LRx 4.1k for now, if I can get the LRx 1.1k for the subs. Then I think, and I'm not sure about this cause it reads different, I can bridge them for each mid bass. So ch 1 & 2 for one and ch 3 & 4 for the other.

The reason I say it reads different is cause it says that the rear channels, or 3 & 4 put out more than the front channels. Here are the specs on the 4.1K - Audison - Music Expression

What would I be running if I bridge these channels? It says at a 4 ohm load I'm getting 2x130 out of ch 1 & 2 and 2x140 out of 3 & 4. So if I'm bridging I should be getting 1x260 out of 1 & 2 and 1x280 out of 3 & 4? Is that correct? Or when I bridge it do I change ohm loads? 

Anyone confirm this please?


----------



## scooter99

Hey Bit One folks. What's the deal on the analog and optical set up. You have to set up analog then do the optical or something like that. Anyone have any further info on how to do this please so I know by the time I get around to doing this?


----------



## IBcivic

scooter99 said:


> Well I've made my decision if I can either sell or trade my dvd player and my LRx 4.1k for an LRx 1.1K and an LRx 2.9. Or I'll just keep the LRx 4.1k for now, if I can get the LRx 1.1k for the subs. Then I think, and I'm not sure about this cause it reads different, I can bridge them for each mid bass. So ch 1 & 2 for one and ch 3 & 4 for the other.
> 
> The reason I say it reads different is cause it says that the rear channels, or 3 & 4 put out more than the front channels. Here are the specs on the 4.1K - Audison - Music Expression
> 
> What would I be running if I bridge these channels? It says at a 4 ohm load I'm getting 2x130 out of ch 1 & 2 and 2x140 out of 3 & 4. So if I'm bridging I should be getting 1x260 out of 1 & 2 and 1x280 out of 3 & 4? Is that correct? Or when I bridge it do I change ohm loads?
> 
> Anyone confirm this please?


scoot, the 4.1's front channel cannot be bridged. it does 4 ch or 3 channel only.


----------



## scooter99

Well that surely puts a damper on my plans then. Hmmmmm back to the drawing board.


----------



## scooter99

So I've been kicking around some ideas I'd like some input on. We all know how much weight I have in my trunk with all the MDF back there. I'm wondering what everyone's opions are on if I were to fiberglass everything instead of the MDF, would it cut down on some of the weight or would it be worth it? I'll leave the Wall MDF, maybe, unless I can figure out a way to thin it out and strengthen it at the same time, whcih I think fiberglass will do. 

But by fiberglassing instead of mdf, I can do some nice stuff back there, like incorporate a battery back there, dress up the bit one and the db, as well as make the amp rack lower all together. I'm thinking of boxing off the rear deck and then fiberglassing the whole rear to be one piece that's sealed. Then the final thought would be to only have two small grills over the subs. That would eliminate adding weight for a beauty panel. 

I'd cover it with something, not paint it, so probably carpet, and then the grills and inserts would match. 

Thoughts from fiberglass experts? What's the weight difference between mdf and fiberglass? Right now I'm using 5/8" mdf for everything. 3/4" mdf on the ib wall. 

I have a shat load of ideas. Gonna make a list here soon and prioritize it all!


----------



## IBcivic

:laugh:...i had to read the whole post to figure out that you were talking about your trunk, not your truck...


----------



## IBcivic

plywood is much lighter and stronger than mdf. that is what i used for my false floor

1/2' thick with 2 aluminium angles screwed to the underside to give it more rigidity and prevent sag.

in tour case>the mdf baffle board/wall has two 15'' dia. holes through it...so it does not weigh much.

f-g is not light and to make a large structure rigid and not resonate, will require some work,knowledge and skill.


----------



## scooter99

Edited. Ok well I dont think I have any of those last two and I'm not afraid of work. But I don't wanna just dive in either. I'll rethink things if need be. Not going to do anything drastic yet. Trying to finish up some stuff. 

I am noticeing, or at least I had a thought today after hearing a noise. When I am very bassy, which does happen, I think the rear deck is vibrating pretty badly. In which case when it does that it's making a slapping sound against the rear panel. So I'm thinking of how I can make that a bit more ridgid. I was thinking about somehow puting a piece of MDF up there, or ply, and of course deadening inbetween the deck and the wood. Then on top, I was thinking of putting in some kind of foam. Either some poly fill or some carpet foam or something like that. Just to prevent the slapping between the two. 

I have to tell you guys, I have sooooo many freaking ideas that I want to do to improve the look of the trunk. Do I need to? No probably not. Is it for competition? No probably not, I've missed all of them so far this year. But do I have a sense of pride in my work and my car? HELL YES!! I like what I've done in there right now. It's accessable and efficient for space, and it's functional. However, I think we all know how we can always improve on our current standings and situations, unless you're on the top level then you don't need to do anything. But while I'm happy with what I've done, I'm also a bit dissatisfied with the final results of the way it looks in the trunk. 

So that's why I'm considering redoing some of it. Needless to say, i have a serious itch for audio again!


----------



## IBcivic

r you sure it isn't the fiber-glass talk that is makin ya itchy?


----------



## scooter99

Could be!! LOL


----------



## scooter99

Woah what do we have here after I come back from lunch!! Hmmmmmm!



Lots of newspaper and seems to be packed well......


Bottom side is blue.................


ohhhhhhh baby............


Isn't she lovelyyyyyyyy, isn't she won-der-ful.......................Oh so beautiful!!! DIMYA.com - Audison LRx 2.9. Audison LRx 2.9 the DIMYA.com people. 


Still working on a couple other things. I've bought an LRx 1.1K which will hopefully be here next week. But I'm still looking for, preferably an LRx 4.5 (blue series), or second choice is an LRx 2.4 which I believe only comes in black. 

I'll update some more as I get more in. 

I'm sure as you can imagine already, yes, I'm going to do a little install modification. I love the equipment and I've been listening to it for a bit now. I just needed some more head room and I've got some new thoughts on install configuration. So that will be coming up at somepoint down the line. I'm collecting at this point.


----------



## bertholomey

scooter99 said:


> I have to tell you guys, I have sooooo many freaking ideas that I want to do to improve the look of the trunk. Do I need to? No probably not. Is it for competition? No probably not, I've missed all of them so far this year. But do I have a sense of pride in my work and my car? HELL YES!! I like what I've done in there right now. It's accessible and efficient for space, and it's functional. However, I think we all know how we can always improve on our current standings and situations, unless you're on the top level then you don't need to do anything. But while I'm happy with what I've done, I'm also a bit dissatisfied with the final results of the way it looks in the trunk.
> 
> So that's why I'm considering redoing some of it. Needless to say, i have a serious itch for audio again!


Hey Scoot,

I love the pictures of you trunk that I just looked at (I love the Dancing Nancy sticker as well!). I'm at the same point - I'm supposed to be done, but.....It is hard not to imagine a LRx 2.9 mounted next to my 5.1k.....it sounds great, but....

I'll have to see if I can swing a trip to Sac Town some day and take a listen. BTW - did you get an answer on your Bit One question?


----------



## scooter99

Well come on over and have a look. I'm pickign up a 2.4 now, and should have it all next week. Then if my 6.9 sells I'll get my auidson connnection stuff, and the build will begin!!

As far as the bit one question, I don't remember which one it was. Can you refresh my memory, otherwise I'll have to go back and read.


----------



## bertholomey

scooter99 said:


> Hey Bit One folks. What's the deal on the analog and optical set up. You have to set up analog then do the optical or something like that. Anyone have any further info on how to do this please so I know by the time I get around to doing this?


I wasn't sure if you were referring to the set up when you run the set up disc (you tell the software what inputs you may be running), or if you were referring to when you are actually doing your tuning.

What I thought was interesting - I had a basic 'tune' on the Master input (xover points, EQ, TA), when I added an optical source and switched over to the Optical input portion of the software (center tab), I realized that I needed to / had the opportunity to set the EQ just for the Optical.


----------



## scooter99

Yea I think that's what I'm a little confused on is how that sets up. I know you can set up Master and Optical on the introduction. I'll figure it out. I'm slowly starting to give in to the fact that I'm gonna have to have someone show me how to tune and set up the bit one. I've tried on my own, but I'm kind of lost. I'll cross that bridge a bit later. 

So latest update. I've got an Audison LRx 1.1K coming, and I bought an Audison LRx 2.4 yesterday for my rear fill. I'm waiting for some stuff to sell, specifically my LRx 6.9, so I can come up with money for my connections, db's, batteries, and rear fill components. But once my amps come in I'll be changing the amps rack. I've got some pictures taken that I"m going to edit to show my ideas of what I'm wanting to do.


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## scooter99

Ok so I think it's time to do an equipment checklist. These are the things that I've got and things that I need. 

Pioneer AVH-P4200DVD - Have
Pioneer Headrest Screens - Have
Audison Bit One.1 - Have
Audison LRx 4.1k - Have
Audison LRx 2.9 - Have
Audison LRx 2.4 - On it's way
Audison LRx 1.1k - On it's way
Hertz HT25 - Have
Hertz HL70 - Have
Hertz ML165 - Have
Hertz HSK165 - Need (rear fill)
Hertz ML3000 (2) - Need
Audison Connection SFD41C (2) - Have one, working on another. 
Audison Connection BFH11 DGT (2) - Need
Audison Connection BFH11 (2) - Need
Audison Connection MP 1/0BL - Need
Audison Connection MP 1/0S - Need
Audison Connection MP 4BL - Need
Audison Connection MP 4S - Need
Audison Connection MP 8BL - Need
Audison Connection MP 8S - Need
Audison Connection SRT 1/0 Ring Terminal (20) - Need
Kinetik HC600 (5) - Need
Stinger Cross Fans (4) - Need

I think that's gonna about do it. Of course not all of this is going into this build. But it's what I'm going to ulitmately finish with. Of course all that takes money, and I've got some stuff up for sale on the classified section, so feel free to buy my stuff and fund my build. PLEASE! 

I'll update as I get to it. I'm doing some drawings at the moment, and I'll post those when I get them done. 

There are lots of new changes and lots of things that I'm just simply going to do better. That's the purpose of this build. I'm happy so far with things, but there's lots of room for imporvment. Stay tuned!


----------



## kyheng

^I will just keep the 6.9 and sell the 4.1 and 2.4 for easier power management and wiring. For rear fill, you no need too loud volume as it will spoilt your front stage.


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## scooter99

I understand that but I'm not looking at or caring about splitting it when the girls are in the car. I would've gone with a smaller amp but audison doesn't make a smaller amp than the 2.4 that matches. If I can't sell the 6.9 I'll have to throw it in the closet I guess and use it when I do the truck. But all amps are bought and have shipped or will this week. I was hoping to use the money from the 6.9 and the pioneer dvd player to get the subs, rear components, extra db, fuse holders, and batteries or at least the majority of it. But I'll have to think of another way to do that if these things don't sell. I'm also looking again for a high power alternator. One that will work this time.


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## djjonnyb

Nice thread scooter! Hahaa, it's me Jonny from the 8th.
:goofy:


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## scooter99

Hey Jonny! 

Ok so here's the new ideas! Or at least for now. 

*First - The dash:*

I'm kind of stealing Martin's dash idea which can be seen on his build thread (http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-build-logs/54564-06-civic-coupe-re-build.html), thanks buddy, but what I'm going to do instead of going the route he did, is I'm going to flip flop it. Here's what I'm doing:

I'm taking an extra dash kit and cutting it down. I'm going to build up the sides of it, to match and flow with the original dash kit, but under neith it. Right now I have all my remotes and switches in the center console like this:



This center console "switch board", for lack of a better term, will be eliminated and the original pocket put back in for storage. In theory, this is what the new piece will look like:



Gotta love MS Paint! At least I do. So what's going to happen here is, and you can follow along with the dash kit above the drawing, the hazard button will be going away, maybe, I haven't decided on this yet. I may actually keep it there and add a push start. We'll see. But the DRC for the Bit One, will be in the center of the "climate control button" area. Next to that will be a pair of switches on either side of the DRC. At this point my switches will be for: 1) Headrest screens, 2) Interior Led Lighting, 3) Trunk Led Lighting, 4) Undecided at this point. 

Next are the climate control knobs, or holes for them. I have a couple of ideas for this. My first thought is to take a couple of knobs, like the originals, and paint them. Then epoxy them into the holes, where they belong, and then drill them out. These holes will house the USB port for the Bit One to laptop controls, and the 12v outlet which will be covered up by putting this additional dash piece in.

Finally everything will be painted to match the existing dash pieces. If you look to the left of the drawing, you'll see a few holes there. These were the holes I drilled, like an idiot, for the bass remotes for the fosgate amps I had. These will be filled in and then that piece painted the original color to match as well.

*Second - Headrest monitor issues:*

Here's the problem I'm having and I'm not yet sure how to fix it. The angle of the headrests are sloping to the front. With the headrest monitors installed in the backs of the head rests, they are angled too high. Meaning my seatbacks have to be laid back pretty far for the screens to sit at a virticle level so they can be seen clearly. You can imagine what kind of impact this would have on my driving or the passengers comfort level. 

Here's how they sit now:


Here's a drawing of how they need to sit to be viewed:


I have a couple of ideas in my head and I'm attempting to finalize something but nothing has been done thus far about it. 

My first idea is the simplest, seemingling, to do and that is to rebuild the rear of the head rest to expand it to more of a square, to the rear passengers, angle. Then build a wooden frame to install in the headrest. Re upholster the headrest, and re install the screens. My concerns with this is that they're going to look too bulky and ugly. 

My second thought is a telescoping panel type of application. Remove the headrest and make a fiberglass mold of the back fo the headrest. Smooth it out and round off or finish the edges. Come up with some sort of hinge system, so that the mold can pivot at the bottom of the headrest and swing the top out to become more square. The monitor itself would be installed on the mold so when the mold is swong out it will sit square with the rear passenger. When not in use it sits back to the back of the headrest. 

I have not yet figured out how to do this. I want it to look stealthy, in that I don't want a couple of big hinge ends sticking out and I want it finished nicely. Secondly how do I keep it extended and stationary. I want to be able to just pull on the top, extend it and it stays. No nuts or wing nuts or hardware or anything like that. Ugly! So that's my delimma on the headrest screens.

For those of you that don't know, this is an issue cause of my daughters. Right now I only have one a day. My wife takes the other. However, starting on June 22nd, I will be taking both or picking both up and will have to deal with this on a daily basis. Gotta come up with something quickly. 

*Third - Ipod mount:*

This is pretty straight forward. I just have to do it. Right now my ipod is mounted, sort of, in the center console switch board. I say sort of cause the mount actually broke and the ipod has jsut been slid into the slot but hooked up to the cable instead of the mount. Anyway, with losing this switch board I have to figure out a new place to put it. Until tonight, this was my only idea:

The armrest:


The armrest modded for ipod:


Now along with this, it's not going to just sit there exposed, I was goign to make a two layer cover for this. One for the armrest and then another that has a flap that goes over the ipod for not only stealthiness, but so my fat ass arm doesn't do anything to it. 

Now then, tonight I got another idea that I'm not sure if I'm going to put into place or not. I was thinking of using an ipod touch holder, something that acutally snaps the ipod into place, and molding that into the side of the center console. By side I mean the driver side. Sort of under the dash but next to my right leg. This puts it flush mounted into the center console side (there's plenty of depth) and as well kind of puts it out of site. I'm gonna think on this one a bit more, and I'll get back to it. 

*Fourth - A pillar pods:*

This is a picture of the way the tweeter and mid range are sitting now. This is an actual shot of them in my car where I listen to them everyday:


I've done a lot of listening to these and I'm pretty happy with the way they sound where they're at. The only changes I'm going to make, is that where the tweeters are on the dash on the stock tweeter grill, they're going to be molded onto the actual pillar. The stock grills for the tweeters will be replaced with new ones. Otherwise these need to be glassed, and covered. 

*Fifth - Doors:*

I've been kicking around some ideas about the front doors. First I've had a big problem that I've half assed a solution to which are the old tweeter holes I cut out. I've coverd them from the inside with some semi matching grill cloth. I'm not overly plesaed with the way the mid bass have been sounding so I've come up with this idead which I'm also looking for suggestions too. 

Right now they're running IB with the door pretty much sealed. What I'm thinking is this. Taking the bottom of the door trim, which has the hole in it from the tweeters, and cutting it up. Here's the way the door sits now, you can see the hole under the handle:


Here is a layout, with the white line, of how the door trim will be cut out:


----------



## scooter99

I'll then do a fiberglass layer on the actual door. On top of that I'll cut out some wooden supports to help put the top layer on the pod. Here is that:


On the wood speaker ring, I'll countersink it so that the Hertz Millie Grill will be able to fit in there. Then I'll finish it with a contrasting material, and then finish the door trim with the other material. 

They'll be separate so that the door card actually goes over the top of the pod. The pod will be secured with some bolts that I'll put in from the back side of the door and drill through the pod. I'll secure with wing nuts from the inside of the pod. At least that's what I'm thinking now. 

The other issue with this is to decide, A) how much air space do they need, and B) does it need to be a sealed enclosure or vented. If vented, where do I vent it?

The rear doors will be similar accept they're not as important for sound quality as the fronts. These are simply for the rear video output, so my daughter can hear their videos. These will be done in similar fashion as the fronts though. These will house a Hertz component set, most likely the HSK 165 2 way set. I'll utilize the passive crossovers in the doors as well. The tweeters will be mounted in the pods too. 

*Sixth - Front Power*

So this is what the front area looks like now:


I did a few narrative things to help everyone understand what I'm going to do here. Let's start.

First things first I think if you've read my thread, you can understand my mistake in here. If not listen up. When I originally did this design under here, I had not taken into account my cables coming from the fuse block and starter into the battery. So in short of time, I had to improvise. I put ring terminals on them and put them under the positive terminal for the time being. Circled in red:


So to fix this little issue, I came up with this. In the middle of the platform I have a dual distro block, used to go from the positive to the block, and then split from there, 2 1/0 ga cables, 1 going to the alternator for the big 3, and the other to the rear of the car for the system. Here is the distro block circled in red:


I bought a second block to match this. The block takes a 1/0 cable in and a 4 ga cable in/out. I was going to take the 4 ga and run it out to the 4 ga in of the second block. Then run the two 4 ga cables for the starter and the main fuse block out of the distro block. Because these are not fused, or at least here, I'm going to take two stubbies of 4 ga, and solder fork terminals on them and put them in where the fuses would normally go. Either that or just get the largest fuses I can get and put them in. This block will go right next to the block that already exists. However to do this I have to move the other block. It's sitting center now, and will simply look off if I put the other one in there that way. 

This brings me to my new idea for this project. The current platform is made up of a simple poly cutting board. Not very sturdy at all. That's gonna go. Next the platform that the Kintetik HC1800 is sitting on, is not level or even and presents a potetial problem down the road. That's gonna go. On another forum that I belong to for civics, I've stumbled across a modification that bascially gives you a short ram intake without buying an expensive model. This involves the removal and cutting of the air box seen here circled in red:


It goes:


This is the only piece that will be left of the air box when it's done:


This is the hose from the front of the car. There is a resonator there that will be removed to allow cooler air to travel from the front of the car to this area. It's next to the battery. I might also remove and relocate this if I can:


After all that has been removed, I'll some how fiberglass the whole area as one big panel. This will separate the heat from the engine having an affect on the intake, have an inlet for the hose from the front providing cool air to the filter, and bolt to the places where the intake origially bolted to. Also I'll be purchasing a battery box for the Kinetik HC1800. This will allow me to put the battery anywhere in that freed up area. I'll use a couple of brackets somehow to attach the box through the fiberglass and onto the frame for security. Above the battery I'll create a cover. This cover will slide down just on top of the battery but have cut outs for the pos and neg battery terminals. Also housed on the cover will be the two dual distrobution blocks I spoke of earlier. 

It sounds like alot of work and it probably will be. However if it turns out half as nice as I am thinking of it in my head, it'll be awesome!! Consequently, I've also thought of adding a third dual distro block. Simply because I'm running extra batteries in the rear in the trunk. Everything that I've read and the email I've recieved from Kinetik, has said to run a two cable system to the extra batteries. Meaning a pos and neg cable from front to rear, not just a ground from chassis. Doing this would mean a second dual db since the neg terminal only houses a single 1/0 ga out. I would have to go from the terminal to the dual db, from there one to the chassis, and one to the rear. I'll have to think on this one a bit more. 

As a bit of an asthetically pleasing touch, I'm also thinking of installing a plexi glass platform under all the dbs. Back lit with blue leds. I have to think more on this as well.

At some point I'm also going to be doing the ELD relay, which will most likely be the fourth switch on the new dash, as well as installing a high output alternator. 

*Seventh - The Trunk Power:*

Here is where things get real! I was origially planning to put in, reading back, 6 Kinetik HC600 batteries. I was going to put them above the sub wall in a row. This just wasn't very doable and was rally stressing me out trying to make it work so I scrapped it! Here's the new idea. 

In the rear corners of the trunk, there are two cubbies. They don't look like cubbies when the trims are in place but there is quite a bit of room back there. The problem is width. But I have enough room to house two Kinetik HC800's stacked on either side. I'm going to fiberglass an enclosure to house these as well as some other stuff. In the fiberglass enclosure, I'm going to install two battery boxes, like up front, to house the batteries for security. Next I'll make a cover for the enclosure so that only the tops of the Kinetik's, which will be on their sides, will be seen. On the sides of these a plexi panel will be installed with blue led backlighting. 

Above these batteries there will be an Audison Connection Fuse Holder with a digital gauge, as well as an Audison Connection Distro Block (SFD-41C). The line from the front will run into the SFD-41C. From there the 2 ga out from the disto block will run to the batteries. The 1/0 Ga out from the SFD-41C will run to the Digital Fuse Holder. From there it will run into the other side, passenger side, where it will start all over again. 

Here's a diagram for the Driver Side:


For the passenger side, the 1/0 ga cable from the driver side, will run into the SFD-41C. The 2ga out will run to the batteries, same as the driver side. The 1/0 ga out from the SFD-41C will run into the Digital Fuse Holder. From there will run out and be terminated. Why run this extra line? Well it's for the digital read out and simply because I want it to look identical to the driver side. 

Here's the diagram fro the Passenger Side (it's the same):


The same blue backlighting on plexi glass will go under these fuse holders and distro blocks.

Then lastly a cover will be made for this to hide all of it until show time or work time.


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## scooter99

*Eighth - Sub Wall:*

Here is where things get a little dicey. I have really set in my mind that the subs are going to change in this car. I'm currently running AE IB15's. I love them, and they're wonderful listening to them. However, my OCD has been buggin me for a while saying everything else in here is hertz or audison, and the subs should be too. Now the problem in this thought is that I'm not finding, via email from Hertz or talks with other people, that I'm goign to be able to run the Hertz in an IB set up. So that means I'll have to go with a box. Either Ported or sealed, I'm not sure yet. Also I'll have to go from 15's to 12's. Believe it or not there isn't much space difference taken from here. Not gonna go into it now. But I'm going to do something like that down the line. Right now the budget doesn't allow, so I'll stick with the AE's. 

I have been noticing more and more vibrations in the rear deck lately. I'm thinking that it's something to do with the spray foam insulation. Anyway, I'm thinking of redoing the wall and somehow separating the rear deck with the wall a different way. Not sure how yet, but my brain is working on this one. My thought so far, is that I'll build an enclosure for the rear deck to seal it off from the trunk. I think out of fiberglass will work. I'll get back to this later. 

I'm going to remove the springs for the trunk because they'll be in the way to do the enclosure. I'm also thinking of redoing the wall in fiberglass but this might be too much of a challenge for me to deal with. Not sure yet. In the end when it's done I'll be putting in gas shocks to take the place of the springs that I'll have removed. Moving on.

*Ninth - Amp Rack:*

For those of you who've not been following along, my equipment has changed. The size not the brand. I've gone from the Audison LRx 6.9 and the LRx 4.1K to this. I've kept the LRx 4.1K for the tweeter and mid range duties. I've added an LRx 2.9 for the mid bass duties, and LRx 2.4 for the rear fill duties, and finally an LRx 1.1K for the sub duties. I've moved some stuff around from what it is currently, in a diagram, and this is what I've come up with:


This of course is not to spec and only a diagram but it's pretty much what I'm thinking of at the moment. It's going to still be a false floor design. All amps and the bit one will have a plexiglass bottom backlit with blue leds as is everything else. 

The only thing I may do that's not shown here or rediagramed is flip flop the LRx 2.4 and the Bit One. That would center the Bit One on the bottom row. I can also flip the amps logo's so that all the RCA's will be in the center. This brings me to the power. If you will recall in the "Seventh" project, there are two SFD-41C distro blocks. One on each side of the trunk. Well here's the layout.

Both of the db's 2 ga out's will be used for the batteries. This leaves us 6 outlets. I'm going to use the driver side outlets to run the LRx 4.1K, LRx 2.9, and the power to the distribution terminals for the rest of the electrical system (8ga wire). The passenger side will be dedicated to the LRx 1.1k, LRx 2.4, and the Bit One. Now you are up to speed on the dual SFD-41C's.

If you put two and two together, you'll see that the power will run on the outside of the amps, and the signals will run on the inside of the amps, separating them to avoid any interfearence. 

Much like now, the amp rack will have a cover on it to keep a stealthy look as well as support any trunk storage weight. 

*Tenth - Cooling:*

At this point in time I have no cooling in the trunk. I'm having amp issues with this as well. I'm afraid of burning them up so really instead of the tenth thing, this should be the first. It's very important! So important that I'm going to the "enth" degree, ok that was bad, to make sure these babies stay cool. I have no diagrams for this so this is just me talking, try to follow along.

To start I'm going to back track a bit. I removed the rear fill from the back deck to the rear doors. I've sealed off the rear deck with an enclosure. 

Now my reasoning. In the rear deck where the rear fill used to be, I'm going to install a PVC or sheetmetal panel. IN the panel I'm going to install a pipe or ducting. That ducting will run to the edge of the enclosure under the rear deck on the side. Here I'll install a fan to draw the cooler air from the cabin, which will normally have the A/C on in the summer. This is on both sides by the way! Over that fan will go the ducting. Then the ducting will flow down, somehow, till it reaches the amp rack on both sides. One to cool the top row and the other to cool the bottom row. There will also be a fan on the inside of the ducting pushing the air into the amp rack. 

From there, on the other side of the cool air input, there will be another fan pulling air out of the amp rack. This air will be pulled by a fan that will exhaust air into the vents, vai ducting, on the sides of the trunk behind the battery compartments. The other option is to try to figure out a secure way to cut a hole behind the bumper inside the spare tire well to exhaust the air that way. Still finalizing this one!

So a total of 6 fans will be used for this! I'm also going to consider a switch to be able to turn the fans off. In the summer the A/C will be on bringing in cool air. Good! In the winter the fans would be drawing in hot air from the heater being on. Bad! A switch would stop these fans from the cabin and simply allow the exhausted air to push out. So if there were heat off the amps, it will be exhausted that way.

There are tons more little things that I'm going to do but these are the major things that I have in mind for now. My main issue at the moment is my budget. So these things will be done slowly as money permits. 

More to come, however, I'm interested in anythoughts! Thanks!


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## djjonnyb

Definately do that 10th idea. It's gonna really start warming up now, ...luckily it's been a rather cool start of a summer this year.


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## sydmonster

wow.... lots out0aloud thinking here man! keep it up. Thats a lot of planing


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## scooter99

Yeah it gets pretty warm around here. I've been thinking about that ducting system for a while now, and actually if I wasn't so freaking exhausted from my vacation and weekend, I'd have probably been up for a while last night thinking about it. 

This is what I do man. There are two reasons for the out loud thinking and planning. Number one, I forget my ideas sometimes and this is a great way for me to refer back and remember. Secondly if I post this stuff up like this, providing people will read it since I know it's alot to read, I'll get input from folks about some of it, and it may help me to change or go forward with some ideas. 

So today is Monday and i just got into work, well I've been here for a while, but when I got here, this is what I found!! 





So lets take a look and see what we have here! Shall we!!




Oh she's a beaute Clark!!! Audison LRx 1.1k sub amp baby!! Beautiful condition!!!!


Next. Oh look, my favorite, packing peanuts!! I'm kidding I hate these things and love them more than anything. What a mess they can cause but they're great for packing!






Isn't that cute!! Nice and small and powerful all at the same time!! Audison LRx 2.4 rear fill amp!!


So to update here's where I'm at with gear!! Some things are changing. I'll address those to the sides. 

Pioneer AVH-P4200DVD - Have
Pioneer Headrest Screens - Have
Audison Bit One.1 - Have
Audison LRx 4.1k - Have
Audison LRx 2.9 - Have
Audison LRx 2.4 - Have
Audison LRx 1.1k - Have
Hertz HT25 - Have
Hertz HL70 - Have
Hertz ML165 - Have
Hertz HSK165 - Need (rear fill)
Acoustic Elegance IB15's (2) - Have (Still want Hertz ML3000 (2), however, money is an issue at the moment until some stuff sells so I'm going to stick with the 15's right now)
Audison Connection SFD41C (2) - Have one, Paid for the second. 
Audison Connection BFH11 DGT (2) - Need
Audison Connection BFH11 (2) - Need
Audison Connection MP 1/0BL - Need
Audison Connection MP 1/0S - Need
Audison Connection MP 4BL - Need
Audison Connection MP 4S - Need
Audison Connection MP 8BL - Need
Audison Connection MP 8S - Need
Audison Connection SRT 1/0 Ring Terminal (20) - Need
Kinetik HC800 (4) - Need (was going with HC600 (5) originally)
2" Fans (6) - Need (was going with (4) stinger 6" cross fans originally)

So if you're following along, that's where I'm at. I'm going to work on building a new amp rack and moving some stuff around soon. I have to get the second Distrobution Block in so I can do that so I'll be waiting at least another week for that to start. I'm going to build my trunk so that the stuff can be pieced in. I'm going to mock up some stuff and build for it to be put in at some point. That way I don't have to build, rebuild and build some more as things come in. 

Stay tuned! Comments welcome as always!


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## scooter99

Ahhh yes the family is all together! Hello family!! 






Aren't they a beautiful family!!


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## IBcivic

where's the 6.9er?...that's a nice collection you got there, mang!


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## scooter99

Its off out of the picture, cause it's hopefully going away. I say hopefully cause if it does go away, there'll be new equipment coming in!


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## scooter99

*Equipment update!!!!!*

Pioneer AVH-P4200DVD - Have
Pioneer Headrest Screens - Have
Audison Bit One.1 - Have
Audison LRx 4.1k - Have
Audison LRx 2.9 - Have
Audison LRx 2.4 - Have
Audison LRx 1.1k - Have
Hertz HT25 - Have
Hertz HL70 - Have
Hertz ML165 - Have
Hertz HSK165 - Need (rear fill) *(Still kicking this around. Might go with coaxials instead to cut down on cost.)*
Acoustic Elegance IB15's (2) - Have (Still want Hertz ML3000 (2), however, money is an issue at the moment until some stuff sells so I'm going to stick with the 15's right now)
Audison Connection SFD41C (2) - Have one, *Bought, waiting for shipping*. 
Audison Connection BFH11 DGT (2) - *Bought, waiting for shipping* 

*I've decided that all the Audison cable is a bit pricey for me. I might do it somewhere down the road, if I win the lottery :laugh:, but right now it's just not in the cards!*
Audison Connection MP 1/0BL - Need
Audison Connection MP 1/0S - Need
Audison Connection MP 4BL - Need
Audison Connection MP 4S - Need
Audison Connection MP 8BL - Need
Audison Connection MP 8S - Need

Audison Connection SRT 1/0 Ring Terminal *(12)* - *Bought, waiting for shipping*
*Audison Connection BCP-100 RCA Ends (Been looking for these for freaking forever!!!!!! (24) - Bought, waiting for shipping*
Kinetik HC800 (4) - Need *This might be changing as well. I might be going with a different brand (Shuriken) instead.*
2" Fans (6) - Need (was going with (4) stinger 6" cross fans originally)


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## kyheng

^Rear fill go for coaxial. As for fans, I think the computer shop's PC fans will fit your bill nicely.


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## scooter99

I agree.


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## kyheng

As for cables, I will get Knu's and techflex it all the way down. With this way, the cables looks nicer and won't cause big hole in my wallet. Maybe going this route may lead to your project ends faster?


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## scooter99

Yea I'm not going with the Audison now, especially. I just simply don't have the dough!!


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## kyheng

But lately I having nightmare with Knu, ordered twiced from them, and none of the items I received. But lucky I was protected by Paypal. This is really freaking me out.
Still I'm interested with your 2.4....... Or 6.9 when I strike lotery...... Buying your stuffs is like buying new stuffs......


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## IBcivic

frys electronics have a really nice choice of computer fans, scoot. i wish we had a store like frys o'er here...sigh...


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## IBcivic

scooter99 said:


> Yea I'm not going with the Audison now, especially. I just simply don't have the dough!!


put your money where it really counts. git 'er done!
then you can always go back later and add the bling, if you have to


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## scooter99

Bling is right! Wow that stuff is expensive. So I think what I'll do is count how many feet I need of everything and save my money one foot at a time by putting a foots worth aside every week. That won't take any time will it!!


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## scooter99

Ok well I've done it! I've jumped off the deep end! I've now posted up my AE IB15's on my FS thread!! No turning back now. Hertz subs here I come!! Check it out, someone buy my stuff!!


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## n_olympios

LOL! 

Scoot, when you get the RCA plugs in your hand, please take photos and write a word or two about them. I was thinking of getting them too, as they're not very long, but I don't know how strong they are when you plug them in.


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## scooter99

I absolutely will do that. I'll review them when I get them in and done.


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## scooter99

*UPDATE!!!*

I'll be adding a 220 amp H/O alternator to my system. Gonna get a Mechman. Just the latest in toys I'm gonna get!


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## scooter99

Well I just looked up and I'm almost at 1000 posts for this thread. HOwever, that being said, I'm going to avoid any confusion and I think I might go to a different thread on this build. I don't know I'm kickin that around. I think it'll be a little less confusing. You know what I'm just gonna do it. Thread name to follow for those of you following this thread, I'll post up the link and name to the new one.

Here's the new thread: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-build-logs/83793-2006-honda-civic-ex-here-we-go-again.html#post1063294


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