# How to make fabric stick to hard plastic?



## ryan s

I have this microsuede-like material to cover my A-pillar garnishes with. The trim is the usual hard yet flexible Honda plastic with some texture on the "face" side.

The fabric is not backed. The weave on the back is very tight, and Super 77 sticks to it well...but won't stick to the plastic. Also, the material becomes ruined when adhesive soaks through it so I can't just bathe everything in glue.

I know it's not the ideal stuff to work with, but it's what I have at the moment unless I decide to flock them...which would be awesome (Acura TLs have all upper pillars flocked which I like) but I'm also concerned about the UV durability of flocking. I have tinted windows and the car sits outside, but the fabric only has to last like 6 months, I hope, since I want a different car.

So without spending $50 on some special kind of adhesive that's only available from Tajikistan, how can I adhere this cloth?


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## 9mmmac

I'm guessing your a-pillars are a positive shape; meaning they bow outwards towards you or have a convex shape when you look at them? 

Then I would try cutting the fabric to closely match the shape and contour, with about 1/2 to 1/4 inch to wrap around the "backside" or the portion which faces the outside of the car. 
[/INDENT
I'd use shoo-goo (or any type of soft, clear adhesive) and attach one side (left or right) of the cloth to the a-pillar by putting some dabs on the inside (the part you won't see) and loosely wrapping the cloth around to the other side. Maybe use clothespins to hold eveything in place?​Wait patiently for everything to dry- like overnight.​The next day, repeat gluing the other side with smallish glue dots, and add extra glue to the first side.​On the third day, complete gluing by adding extra to the last worked side. Trim carefully with a sharp razor blade, and make smallish notches to allow for ribbing on the back side of the trim piece or for attachment hardware.​
The object is to get a good strong hold, wrap the fabric around the part you will see in a smooth, wrinkle-free manner, and secure the other side well. Shoo-goo seems to be the best in terms of flex and temp tolerance. If you don't pull too hard during the wrapping process, just about any type of latex caulk or adhesive should work, as long as you allow it to dry completely. I would think in that case, completely soaking the fabric would be a good ting, since nobody will see it anyway.​


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## IBcivic

try 3m super trim spray adhesive 08090 ..that stuff sticks like a mofo
i beleive i bought it from autozone for like $16 a can

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=66666UuZjcFSLXTt4XM2L8TyEVuQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666--


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## trojan fan

amitaF said:


> try 3m super trim spray adhesive 08090 ..that stuff sticks like a mofo
> i beleive i bought it from autozone for like $16 a can
> 
> http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=66666UuZjcFSLXTt4XM2L8TyEVuQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666--


 great stuff... just watch what you get it on


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## ryan s

9mmmac said:


> I'm guessing your a-pillars are a positive shape; meaning they bow outwards towards you or have a convex shape when you look at them?Then I would try cutting the fabric to closely match the shape and contour, with about 1/2 to 1/4 inch to wrap around the "backside" or the portion which faces the outside of the car.
> [/INDENTI'd use shoo-goo (or any type of soft, clear adhesive) and attach one side (left or right) of the cloth to the a-pillar by putting some dabs on the inside (the part you won't see) and loosely wrapping the cloth around to the other side. Maybe use clothespins to hold eveything in place?​Wait patiently for everything to dry- like overnight.​The next day, repeat gluing the other side with smallish glue dots, and add extra glue to the first side.​On the third day, complete gluing by adding extra to the last worked side. Trim carefully with a sharp razor blade, and make smallish notches to allow for ribbing on the back side of the trim piece or for attachment hardware.​The object is to get a good strong hold, wrap the fabric around the part you will see in a smooth, wrinkle-free manner, and secure the other side well. Shoo-goo seems to be the best in terms of flex and temp tolerance. If you don't pull too hard during the wrapping process, just about any type of latex caulk or adhesive should work, as long as you allow it to dry completely. I would think in that case, completely soaking the fabric would be a good ting, since nobody will see it anyway.​



The only problem is going to be the section near the dash...the bottom kind of curves towards the center of the car. I cut off 1/2" of the reinforcement "grid" on the back of one pillar garnish in preparation to do the edge gluing method...might still have to go that route.


amitaF said:


> try 3m super trim spray adhesive 08090 ..that stuff sticks like a mofo
> i beleive i bought it from autozone for like $16 a can
> 
> http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=66666UuZjcFSLXTt4XM2L8TyEVuQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666--


It says two or three times in the PDF that it's not recommended for lightweight materials. Of course, lighter coats would help...

$19 at O'Reilly's... :surprised:​


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

Are you cleaning the trim with IPA or Acetone (really fast clean) first?


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

I stuck cloth to this with that... so....










---------------------------------------ONE seam.... ^^^..... right there... lol..


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## slade1274

First need to prep the surface- sand it a bit to give it tooth and then hit lightly with a propane or MAP gas torch as a "corona treatment" to flash off the residual from the plasticizers on the surface that is giving the plastic the lubricity that is causing adhesion fail. Then use a good contact adhesive on each surface. The DAP landau is the "best" but only comes in a gallon and requires the spray gun shown.... there are other 3M contact can sprays or DAP contact adhesives as well. The best rattle can IMHO is V & S 1081.

V&S Spray Trim Adhesive - #1081 *FREE SHIPPING* - GluePlace.com Store


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## ryan s

Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> Are you cleaning the trim with IPA or Acetone (really fast clean) first?





Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> I stuck cloth to this with that... so....
> 
> ----------------------------------------------On seam.. ^^^... right there... lol..


Hmm, I didn't clean them with acetone...can't remember what (if anything) I used...

But that would probably be why the adhesive didn't stick :laugh:


slade1274 said:


> First need to prep the surface- sand it a bit to give it tooth and then hit lightly with a propane or MAP gas torch as a "corona treatment" to flash off the residual from the plasticizers on the surface that is giving the plastic the lubricity that is causing adhesion fail. Then use a good contact adhesive on each surface. The DAP landau is the "best" but only comes in a gallon and requires the spray gun shown.... there are other 3M contact can sprays or DAP contact adhesives as well. The best rattle can IMHO is V & S 1081.
> 
> V&S Spray Trim Adhesive - #1081 *FREE SHIPPING* - GluePlace.com Store


I definitely never would have used a torch to prep them :laugh: Makes sense though.

How much does the V&S soak through? Since there are trim adhesives out there which can physically stick _x_ material to _y_ surface, the choice is becoming what's not going to ruin the cloth...


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

The key to NOT ruining cloth is to have a spray that creates a "web" (if it GLOBS, it will soak through) you also have to let the glue completely dry.. 

like so... 



















more "web"


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## jtaudioacc

I agree with Aaron, that's all I use, in California. :O

also as important, is to scuff that entire surface to get rid of any smooth spots. the glue isn't going to hold as well without that. then, like others suggested, use some type of pre cleano, acetone, or lacquer thinner to clean/prep the plastic.

with the weldwood glue, you'll also be able to apply and remove it a bit while putting the upholstery on allowing you to get it just right. just remember to glue both sides, then wait at least 10 minutes for it to tack before you cover the pillars.

BTW, Ryan, the Harbor Freight spray gun I use works great! usually around 20 bucks, add a 20% off and free flashlight or clamp, and you're out of there for about 18 bucks! LOL


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## ryan s

Wow, I've never seen glue "web" up like that. Super 77 definitely doesn't go on evenly...not a problem for carpet, of course.

lol as for HF stuff...my dad has at least 2 of everything (literally) and I know he has one or two spray guns...I think they're purple. I got a brand new old school Campbell Hausfeld gun at a garage sale for $5 last summer :laugh:

Looking on O'Reilly's site, they also have a mid-strength 3M 8088 vs the high-strength 8090. Considering I'll probably never do more than small interior panels, would that be strong enough? It features:



> Good soak in control, minimizing possibility of bleed through


While the 8090 says:





> Resistant to heat and plasticizing oils


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

I've never ONCE, had a rattle can glue STAY stuck.. FYI.. not once.. 

Those pics I showed above, all re-done with the DAP..


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

ryan s said:


> Wow, I've never seen glue "web" up like that. Super 77 definitely doesn't go on evenly...not a problem for carpet, of course.
> 
> lol as for HF stuff...my dad has at least 2 of everything (literally) and I know he has one or two spray guns...I think they're purple. I got a brand new old school Campbell Hausfeld gun at a garage sale for $5 last summer :laugh:


Use the cheapest gun you have if you are going to run glue in it.. 

and AFA it not going on evenly, that's how it's supposed to go on... it's a super light web effect, it's so nothing "globs" and soaks through the cloth..


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## ryan s

Thanks for the input Aaron (and everyone else)...gotta think about this further.

The DAP at Home Depot is $10/gal but I don't know if it's the same stuff since the packaging is all changed. Then I need to inventory the stock of spray guns.

Oh, what's the working temp of the glue? Cause the compressor is in the garage and there's no heater in there...


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## beatnik

A tip I learned for using glue like the landau top contact cement on items that bleed through:

Put it on the solid side. Wait until well after it flashes. It should be barely tacky to the touch. Hit it with a heat gun, then stretch your fabric over the glue covered item and use a roller to burnish it.


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## nineball

Amazon.com: 3M 74-Clear FoamFast Spray Adhesive 24-Ounce: Industrial & Scientific

amazing glue, much better than 77 or 90. this is what i use while restoring the interior of classic cars. very nice spray pattern and adjustable 3 stages of width of spray.


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## ryan s

I LOL'd at the one line in the Amazon link:





> This item is not for sale in Catalina Island



One, because it's random. Two, because...






:laugh:

I think I'm just going to mount the tweeters for now and look at the screw holes for a little while. It's going to get super cold again next week and my motivation for working on cars is directly proportional to outside temperature :laugh:


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## S10Okie25

Ryan, if you're still looking for a glue, I used this stuff called "Amazing Goop" on my door panels to secure cloth to the back. It's tacky right away, required a very little amount actually be used, and can be found for only a few bucks online. It's held up great! :thumbsup:


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## req

all good info, biggest thing to do is wait for it to flash, or dry. if you try and glue it with any kind of spray adhesive while its still wet its going to glob and soak through and not stick.


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## ryan s

Awesome...lots of choices  It'll probably wait till it's warm enough outside...I hate working in the cold.


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## Mless5

Sorry to derail, but I too looked into just gluing fabric (ultrasuede? Synthetic sh!t) to various materials. I find it to look frankly speaking bad. OE manufacturers always put a thin layer of foam in between. Has anybody tried that?

Thanks.


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## Mic10is

Mless5 said:


> Sorry to derail, but I too looked into just gluing fabric (ultrasuede? Synthetic sh!t) to various materials. I find it to look frankly speaking bad. OE manufacturers always put a thin layer of foam in between. Has anybody tried that?
> 
> Thanks.


I did a layer of trunk liner in between and use 3M Super General Trim Adhesive.
Spray evenly on both surfaces and let it flash and tack.
DONOT put together on wet or it will bleed.


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## sqshoestring

I've never had a problem with 3M the normal or super trim. You must clean plastic if you paint or glue it, it has release agent on it. I use naptha available at any hardware, its just a little faster mineral spirits. Make sure you wipe it off do not let it dry. Alcohol might also work well but I prefer something I can wipe off to remove contaminates, and naptha is as fast as I can use on larger panels and still get it off before it dries. I have glued the edges of stuff for more holding power, goop is good stuff for that glue the inside edges with it. Staples are nice too if it don't show. I put a headliner in a 60s car a while back with 3M super, can't say the stuff don't stick, a vinyl head liner that all goes in by hand, is all cloth not formed. Due to the pressure on it you do have to clamp it until it dries some.


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