# The Maxxbass 103



## 89grand (Nov 23, 2006)

OK, so this talk recently about the Maxxbass 103 got my interest perked up about this unit. I heard it was sort of a gimmick but I thought WTF, why not play with one.I found a brand new one on ebay and bought it for $87 shipped. It arrived today so of course I had to play around with it for a while.

The first thing I did was put it in between my mid outputs from the 880PRS and my mid inputs of the GTO 75.4. I connected the wired remote controller and ran it outside the car and through the back door window so that I could adjust it from the drivers seat while listening to it. I turned the sub off so that it wouldn't skew the results and started listening to it. The first setting I tried was the "sub" setting. On that setting I didn't get much results except that I could over drive the 720PRS mids if turned up much. This things is touchy, you have nothing then you clearly have something. 

I didn't like the results from the sub setting at all, totally unnatural so I went into the trunk and set it to the "door" setting. At the "door" setting I could at least dial in some kick with it, again though, you have nothing, then immediately something when you turn the knob just a little bit, then towards it's limit it's way too much. It doesn't seem to increase steadily as you turn up the controller. I didn't like the results much at the door setting either, but it was better than the sub setting. One thing I noticed was as I turned it up a little, to the point that you could tell it was doing something, I could see my rear view and side mirrors shaking more, it was doing something besides just an audible illusion, probably just a bi-product of the upper bass it adds. Keep in mind, the sub was turned off. But, no matter how I adjusted it, I just didn't care for what it was doing. Turning the crossover value up to 120hz made it's purpose more obvious, down at 80hz it didn't do near as much for the overall midbass output. I didn't seem to help my mid to sub transistion, but that's because I don't have a problem there.

In summary, this thing has no purpose in a midbass application if you've already got good solid midbass output like I do with the 720PRS mids. If you are forced to run small 4" or maybe even 5.25's, the Maxxbass 103 could improve your perceived mid to sub integration quite a bit I think if used sparingly, in fact I'm sure it would help. Fake bass or not, it's better than none if you need it. I should mention that it never sounded "fake" it just didn't sound right in my system, it was bloated in the midbass region and eq'ing out more midbass was the only cure it seemed, which defeats it's purpose.


Next, I moved it to my sub. My sub is an RE Audio SE 12 in a sealed box of .83 ft3 before driver displacement. In this application, set to "sub" on the Maxxbass is where it really made a difference, it created a good amount of kick to the sub, so much so, that I found myself turning the sub level down from -6db to about -12db. I had to listen to this for a little while longer to determine what I really felt about it. More bass is always cool, and it didn't sound unnatural, but I came to the conclusion that I didn't need it on my sub either. Sure the added bass was cool at first, but considering some of the bassless music I listen to, and further listening revealed what I really need, and that is another Epicenter, not just more upper bass kick. I had one before, but sold it years ago because it wasn't compatible with my Alpine HU I was running at the time. I need deeper bass, not just more bass. 

In fact, I just recently had "unpredictableacts", a forum member, build me a 2 ft3 slot ported box which is supposed to arrive tomorrow, and that box should give me much more kick in its self, making the Maxxbass not very usefull to me.

So in summary for subs, if you run a small sub and feel like you need more from it, the Maxbass is actually a good alternative, it really makes a difference that doesn't sound unnatural particularly, most people that heard it would never know you were "faking it".

In summary in general, if you have a setup with good solid midbass drivers and a sub capable of getting quite loud, the Maxxbass is not for you. On the other hand, if you are limited to small midbass speakers and or a small sealed sub with not enough output for you, the Maxxbass has a lot of potential. I wouldn't recommend this unit for rock solid systems, but I would recommend it highly for systems that need this sort of help when replacing speakers is not a viable option.

BTW, I just got this today, but look for it in the "for sale" forum. I'll be selling this for $75 shipped (I paid $87 and just got it today. Or trade for a good condition Epicenter)

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18570


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## torog (Oct 2, 2005)

I also received a maxbass 103 about 3 months ago. But my car car (or just the battery) has some problem so I haven't played as I'd want to.
I tried it on my frontstage to see if I could run it subless.
That's what I have:
HU:Alpine cda-9813
Dayton RS180
LPG 25NFA's
Amp: PREMIER GM-H55

My midbass aren't well mounted at all since I'm still wondering how I can definitly mount them 
I've gotten opposite results than yours. I got a MASSIVE amount of quite deep bass on "SUB setting" though I have much cancelation as my midbass are mounted in a personal way 
On the other hand on "door" setting I don't like it very much because the RS180 naturally don't need more power at 70HZ and up.
The problem I have is on sub setting it seems like I'll overpower them early if I turn up the volume knob, though they say it actualy moves less. But as I have elctrical problems I didn't try it.

As far as the subwoofer is concerned what you says surprises me 
On "sub" setting it's supposed to cross at 35HZ and amplify all that's under.
So you say the bass added isn't deep enough??

And a question: did you run the mids without passive crossovers??


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