# Loud Infinite Baffle Subwoofers?



## jonah1810 (Apr 16, 2015)

Hey so I've been looking up ib subs and I think it's the method I'm going to go with. Only concern i have is if it will go loud enough to match the H. A. T imagine with a jx 360/2 attached (110 watts x2) that i will be getting. I'm looking for sq, but i want it to be loud enough to match up without it costing too much, i was thinking a 300$ budget for the subs. I recall reading that they can't handle as much power, so it would need to be very efficient right? 
would i be better going with one good sub or two decent ones? 
I've heard it's better, when doing ib to use large subs, is that undoubtedly true? Or will i still lose a lot of accuracy in the bass? 
If you could point me in the right direction that'd be great  
Thanks guys


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## Lycancatt (Apr 11, 2010)

the myth that large subs have worse sq is so old and busted I'm surprised to still hear it, but I understand why people keep saying it.

look into a pair of low power fifteens and see what you can do, jbl gto 1514d comes to mind.

or a single 18? what kind of car is this going into.


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## kaigoss69 (Apr 2, 2008)

Couple of ID15's or the GTO's. I'd go with ID.


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## jonah1810 (Apr 16, 2015)

2000 mazda protoge. And i know large subs can be just as much as sq as small ones, i was more talking about how "tight" the bass is. Its to my understanding that larger subs play lower frequencies better and smaller drivers play higher frequencies better. I don't want it to just be a boom that vibrates everything , i want it to sound like it's playing how it was meant to be heard If you get what i mean.


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## edzyy (Aug 18, 2011)

Alpine Type S
Boston g2
JBL GTO

That's the most excursion you'll get at your budget

If you can step up, look into FU audio and FI ib3's


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## jonah1810 (Apr 16, 2015)

kaigoss69 said:


> Couple of ID15's or the GTO's. I'd go with ID.


Uhm i don't know if I'm looking at the wrong id15's but they're 500$ for one..


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## jonah1810 (Apr 16, 2015)

edzyy said:


> Alpine Type S
> Boston g2
> JBL GTO
> 
> ...


Would i be better off with two alpine type-s or one type r? (just used alpine as an example, the next one up in any subwoofer series)


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## kaigoss69 (Apr 2, 2008)

jonah1810 said:


> Uhm i don't know if I'm looking at the wrong id15's but they're 500$ for one..


ID15D4 V.3 - Image Dynamics 15" Dual 4 Ohm V.3 Subwoofer


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## edzyy (Aug 18, 2011)

jonah1810 said:


> Would i be better off with two alpine type-s or one type r? (just used alpine as an example, the next one up in any subwoofer series)


2 type S


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## jonah1810 (Apr 16, 2015)

Thanks guys!! So 15" is definitely the way to go with ib?


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

With all else being equal, large subs are usually better in every way over small subs. Large subs are just as "tight" and "quick" and accurate as small subs. My 15s sound just as quick and accurate as a pair of 8s or 10s. It would be best to use a pair of 15s in a sealed setup too but most people don't want to give up the trunk space for the huge box that's required. 

Infinite baffle gives better cone control than a sealed box so any sub you use IB will sound tighter. It sounds the opposite of what you would think but IB will just about always sound better than sealed. 

IB is more efficient than sealed at low frequencies and that's why subs in that configuration can't take as much power. The less power it takes to push the subs to their linear limits the better so it's a good thing, not a bad thing that IB setups won't take as much power. IB output potential is the same as sealed, exactly the same, but you won't need as much power to get there. 

You will probably end up with the quickest, tightest, most accurate, and the lowest effortless lows you've ever had with an IB setup. 15s are not required. They're recommended because there's no reason not to use them since there's no box to take up your trunk space. My favorite sounding setup was probably my 12W6s when infinite baffle. But basically if a single 12"'sub is enough for you in a sealed box, it will be enough for you in an IB setup. I still recommend a 15 or two. The larger subs will have lower distortion, higher efficiency (require less power), more output potential, and usually more favorable T/S parameters. I hate to make a blanket statement but the only reasons to go with smaller subs is space, weight, or budget. Larger subs are just better in almost every way whether you want accuracy or output or both. Of course, there are people that just want the sub to fill in the bottom to where it's barely notices me and in those cases the larger subs would still be "better" but probably not worth the money and the hassle for the inaudible gains. 

If a sub works well sealed it will almost undoubtedly not only work IB, it will probably sound better. A single AE IB15 or even better, an SBP15 would be in your price range and it is one of the quickest and tightest subs you'll ever hear. Plus it will dig to 20hz nearly flat with no eq and just 150w will get loud, 300w will push it near its limits. It will also play well into the upper midrange to the point it sounds like you have a midrange speaker in the back. It's kind of weird to hear a 15" sub playing female vocals and sounding decent doing it, not that you would ever want it to do that. 

If you could swing a little more money, the AE AV15 is an amazing sub. It has everything the IB15 has but with more output, the potential for better sound quality, a better suspension, etc. 

The IDMax 15 that I have now sounds very, very good. I like it better than the AE IB15s I used to have for pure sound quality plus they get stupid loud. It would be hard to find another 15" sub that would get as loud and sound as good but they're not cheap. 

Everyone loves the GTOs. I haven't personally heard them but they get great reviews by some knowledgeable people and the price is great. From what I understand, if there was a weak link it might be that they could use a little more excursion for the sub bass heavy material. I'm sure running two of them would fix any lack of displacement problems. 

There are tons of subs that will work. Do you have any favorites that you prefer currently? Do you already own subs? Just checking because you might be able to use what you have without buying new subs.


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## turbo5upra (Oct 3, 2008)

A 15" woofer plays 35hz slower than a 8" 

A single ae 15 left me wanting more...

We ran 2 arc arc 10's and that had a ton of output in a Sentra- roughly the same size car...

Here is ib on a budget: Boston Acoustics G215 44 15" 600 Watt Dual 4 Ohm Car Audio Subwoofer Sub G21544 690283478599 | eBay


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

turbo5upra said:


> A 15" woofer plays 35hz slower than a 8"
> 
> A single ae 15 left me wanting more...
> 
> ...


Just curious in which way they ran out of steam. Were they displacement limited as in hard bottoming or the spider reigning them in or did they just not get any louder due to Bl loss?

I'm one of the idiots that hit mine with a 16hz tone with 1,000w by accident once. There was no audible hard bottoming, I think the spider reigned them in first but I'm always interested in others experiences.


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## cajunner (Apr 13, 2007)

that Boston sub looks pretty awesome for entry level IB baffle installations.

if I may make a bold claim, I wouldn't be surprised if it did as well as the ID15V3 suggested first, at well over double the price.

You could do 2 Boston 15's, for 140 bucks. That's a lot of bass.


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## edzyy (Aug 18, 2011)

turbo5upra said:


> A 15" woofer plays 35hz slower than a 8"
> 
> *A single ae 15 left me wanting more...*
> 
> ...


2 left me wanting more. 

I went right back to my AA SMD.


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## mmiller (Mar 7, 2008)

Dayton has some IB 15's that are reasonably priced. I've never used them personally but I've heard good things about them. Of the previous ones mentioned the JBL GTO's are the best bang for the buck, IMO.


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## cajunner (Apr 13, 2007)

yeah 195 shipped for cast frame jbl is hard to beat...

JBL GTO1514D 15" Dual 4 ohm Grand Touring Series 1400W Subwoofer


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## turbo5upra (Oct 3, 2008)

cajunner said:


> that Boston sub looks pretty awesome for entry level IB baffle installations.
> 
> if I may make a bold claim, I wouldn't be surprised if it did as well as the ID15V3 suggested first, at well over double the price.
> 
> You could do 2 Boston 15's, for 140 bucks. That's a lot of bass.


They are great for the money- I have a pair for a back seat in my daily beater


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## turbo5upra (Oct 3, 2008)

BuickGN said:


> Just curious in which way they ran out of steam. Were they displacement limited as in hard bottoming or the spider reigning them in or did they just not get any louder due to Bl loss?
> 
> I'm one of the idiots that hit mine with a 16hz tone with 1,000w by accident once. There was no audible hard bottoming, I think the spider reigned them in first but I'm always interested in others experiences.


it died a painful death of buckling the cone- the area around the dust cap was all wrinkled... It just wasn't enough air movement for me- but then again a single low Xmax sub ib isn't going to rock the world  it was great while it lasted!


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

turbo5upra said:


> it died a painful death of buckling the cone- the area around the dust cap was all wrinkled... It just wasn't enough air movement for me- but then again a single low Xmax sub ib isn't going to rock the world  it was great while it lasted!


That's crazy and kind of cool in an expensive way. I had no idea they would do that. Did they ever actually bottom that you could tell? What causes the buckling, is it the surround being pulled tight or just too much acceleration/gforce? I've always wondered how one of those subs would fail if pushed too hard. 

I know I'm getting off topic but sub carnage has always interested me.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

edzyy said:


> 2 left me wanting more.
> 
> I went right back to my AA SMD.


Which two did you have when you needed more? 

With you having quite a bit of IB experience and your leaning toward high output and SQ, any chance you might ever try the ID Max15s in a future build? Just wondering if there's a chance of if there's something you don't like about them. I'm absolutely in love with the SQ but it would be fun to see someone push them hard unlike myself. Even with 800w each, and only able to barely come close to xmax around 20hz, they're brutal. I can't imagine wanting more but for all I know someone into SPL might laugh at what I call brutal. 

Did you end up doing the 8"'midbass install in the TL this weekend? I tried to answer your question as best as I could but I know it was kind of vague.


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## edzyy (Aug 18, 2011)

BuickGN said:


> Which two did you have when you needed more?
> 
> With you having quite a bit of IB experience and your leaning toward high output and SQ, any chance you might ever try the ID Max15s in a future build? Just wondering if there's a chance of if there's something you don't like about them. I'm absolutely in love with the SQ but it would be fun to see someone push them hard unlike myself. Even with 800w each, and only able to barely come close to xmax around 20hz, they're brutal. I can't imagine wanting more but for all I know someone into SPL might laugh at what I call brutal.
> 
> Did you end up doing the 8"'midbass install in the TL this weekend? I tried to answer your question as best as I could but I know it was kind of vague.


I had the SPB's. I liked them for the most part, but the output i craved just wasn't there. 75% of the music I listen to is hip hop & the SPB's were too clinical sounding for that kind of music. 

Maybe i like a little bit of distortion? Who knows. 

The Max was on the list of subs I wanted to try, but I can squeeze 18's into this b7 a4 I've been looking at. If ID made an 18" max, I'd be all over it. 

If I don't end up going back to the SMD ported, i'll probably be trying out the SI HT 18's, Dayton HO 18's, SSA Xcon 18's, FI IB3's, or the FU audio 18's FU Car Audio FU750-18


Regarding the TL, We haven't got around to that since i'm still in another state for work.... But when I get back, we'll tackle getting in that beyma 8g40. That & the fountek 3's should make for a sweet sounding and loud front end


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## turbo5upra (Oct 3, 2008)

BuickGN said:


> That's crazy and kind of cool in an expensive way. I had no idea they would do that. Did they ever actually bottom that you could tell? What causes the buckling, is it the surround being pulled tight or just too much acceleration/gforce? I've always wondered how one of those subs would fail if pushed too hard.
> 
> I know I'm getting off topic but sub carnage has always interested me.


I had no idea that it had happened- iirc correctly the joint on the spider even broke... but could not hear it bottoming as I thought I should...


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## YukonXL04 (Mar 6, 2014)

I have a pair of jbl gto 15s IB in my TL. First time using the jbl and first time IB. I would say I'm pretty impressed with how it sounds. Very clean and articulate. I think they get plenty loud, I would compare it to 1 15 ported on 800-1000 watts... and I'm only pushing maybe 175 to each sub. Need to get a bigger amp


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## kaigoss69 (Apr 2, 2008)

edzyy said:


> I had the SPB's. I liked them for the most part, but the output i craved just wasn't there. 75% of the music I listen to is hip hop & the SPB's were too clinical sounding for that kind of music.
> 
> Maybe i like a little bit of distortion? Who knows.
> 
> ...


The IDMax is really a 16. I am using one with 900W and it does everything I ever would want a sub to do, including the ability to get stupid loud. I could not imagine what two can do!


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## vwjmkv (Apr 23, 2011)

how are the Dayton Audio Reference HF/HO, Ultimax, and Titanic mk4 subs for IB?


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## jonah1810 (Apr 16, 2015)

So how would i be able to know how much power to give my sub in an ib setup?


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## YukonXL04 (Mar 6, 2014)

Listen to them lol


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## jonah1810 (Apr 16, 2015)

Was thinking more so for knowing which amp i should get because in an ib they take a lot less to reach their excursion and you know id rather not just break what i buy..


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## Beckerson1 (Jul 3, 2012)

vwjmkv said:


> how are the Dayton Audio Reference HF/HO, Ultimax, and Titanic mk4 subs for IB?


The Ultimax is beer suited for IB then the HF/HO. Idk about the Titanic mk4.

As you can see I run two Ultimax 15s IB. They do very well.


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## Beckerson1 (Jul 3, 2012)

jonah1810 said:


> Was thinking more so for knowing which amp i should get because in an ib they take a lot less to reach their excursion and you know id rather not just break what i buy..


Don't be afraid to oversize the amp. Depending on how you set things up IB you can definitely send some serious power to the subs. Figure at least rated power out of the subs with the right SSF and EQ work.


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## Pseudonym (Apr 17, 2006)

im having a toss up situation here. its between the ultimax subs or something from sundown. currently in talks with jacob about whats best suited for IB in the sundown lineup.


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## turbo5upra (Oct 3, 2008)

I usually run 6-700 to my ib setups- they never see anywhere near that however


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## jonah1810 (Apr 16, 2015)

Beckerson1 said:


> Don't be afraid to oversize the amp. Depending on how you set things up IB you can definitely send some serious power to the subs. Figure at least rated power out of the subs with the right SSF and EQ work.


Should the SSF just be set to cut it off at the lowest frequency the subwoofer claims it can play? And i won't have a eq :/ i plan on maybe getting a dsp down the road but i definitely can't afford it as is..


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

turbo5upra said:


> I usually run 6-700 to my ib setups- they never see anywhere near that however


You're lucky. 800w to each Max15 will barely hit xmax on a 20hz tone. To their credit they're stupid loud at xmax and I feel sorry for the car. The AE subs spoiled me, I miss being able to run 500w total and get decently loud.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

jonah1810 said:


> Should the SSF just be set to cut it off at the lowest frequency the subwoofer claims it can play? And i won't have a eq :/ i plan on maybe getting a dsp down the road but i definitely can't afford it as is..


Every sub can play as low as the other. I wouldn't pay attention to the rated frequency range, it really doesn't mean much. The subsonic if needed should be set just high enough to keep the sub from bottoming. It takes twice the excursion for each octave lower. 

For example, if your sub bottoms out at 20hz you have two options. Turn down the gain/limit the volume or limit the 20hz and below frequencies with the SS filter. The downside to limiting the volume is you limit every frequency. If you limit only the lowest frequencies where the sub bottoms at you can keep the main volume cranked up and the only downside is you'll lose some of the lowest material. 

A sealed box does this for you. It reduces efficiency the lower the frequencies go so it's harder to bottom the subs. With IB, instead of physically making it inefficient, you can just reduce the power at the lowest frequencies just enough to stop it from bottoming with the SS. 

When I had a single 12" sub IB, I didn't NEED a subsonic for the vast majority of my listening. It got plenty loud, but on music that contained really low notes that I wanted to really crank up I would enable the SS at 30hz. That's the nice thing about a pair of 15s, I don't need a SS even on 16hz material with 1,600w. I have the displacement to cover anything that's thrown at them, at least at my power level. 

If you want a really loud IB setup, you can set the SS higher to the point you can put their full thermal rating to them. You might not have any better low end than sealed but they will still be considerably more efficient.


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## jonah1810 (Apr 16, 2015)

"every sub can play as low as the other" seriously? It seems like half the specs they give you everybody deems useless. 
I feel like I'm going to break my subs when i install them  how can i tell if they're bottoming out, and if all subs can play just as low, what factor causes them to bottom out?


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

Even a tweeter can play 20hz. It's a matter of how loud it can do it. For a tweeter to play 20hz without bottoming it would never be loud enough to hear. 

For a sealed or IB setup displacement determines how loud it can play the lower frequencies. It's nothing more than cone area and how much excursion it has. Bore x stroke, nothing more. Power is not a factor. If you have two subs with the same cone area and they're both moving 1" they will both have the same output even if one sub requires 100w and the other requires 1,000w. The only thing that matters in making output is displacement. 

So with that said, every sub can produce a 20hz or even a 10hz tone. How loudly it can do it depends on how much air it can move (displacement). The more subs you use (one vs two) the easier it will be to hit the lower notes and with less distortion. The more cone area each sub has the easier it will play the lows at a reasonable output level. Same with excursion. The higher the xmax the louder it will play the lows with a reasonably low level of distortion. The higher the xmech the more excursion you can run before hurting the subs mechanically.

So all subs play as low as one another, some are just able to play low louder because some have more displacement than others. The xmech parameter will tell you how much excursion the sub can take before bottoming or some other form of mechanical distress/damage. Xmax is how much linear (low distortion) excursion it has. Xmech will obviously be higher than xmax. Some subs can go way past xmax before bottoming and some bottom just past xmax. My current subs are rated at 28mm xmax and 50mm xmech with 935cm^2 of cone area. My IB15s were rated at 18.5mm xmax and 25mm xmech and 825cm^2 cone area. My current subs will destroy my old IB15s in low end output because they have way more displacement, assuming there's enough power to push them to xmax. 

Some are better at playing low than others, because some will be more efficient and have less distortion while playing really low. Even so, they will all play as low as you want. Fs, Q, and xmax/xmech all have a big influence in how well and how loud they will play low. Just going from sealed to IB will almost always give considerably better low end and reduce power required. 

Sorry for being all over the place, I'm not on a computer and can't even see what I'm writing so it's random and probably has tons of grammar mistakes. I probably confused more than helped.


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## turbo5upra (Oct 3, 2008)

BuickGN said:


> You're lucky. 800w to each Max15 will barely hit xmax on a 20hz tone. To their credit they're stupid loud at xmax and I feel sorry for the car. The AE subs spoiled me, I miss being able to run 500w total and get decently loud.


I laugh out loud every time I remember chefhow and myself driving back from tintbox's show... Driving through Baltimore- 2 10's ib with an arc 300.2 running the show in a rusty Sentra with chef out the window rapping at cars as we passed them.... Those subs moved a crap ton of air for their size... It was just enough for me... So I put 2 15's in my next beater


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## jonah1810 (Apr 16, 2015)

Buick that was a perfect explanation!! Your pretty insanely knowledgeable with this stuff  I wonder how crazy your car must sound 
Thank you


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## Beau (Oct 8, 2005)

If you are looking for a couple of 15" subs and want to preserve your budget - I cannot imagine being able to do it any cheaper than this:

Speaker Detail | Eminence Speaker

Here is a very inexpensive 15" that is used very frequently in home audio OB use:

Eminence Alpha-15A 15" Driver

Martin King writes about the Beta 15A here: http://www.quarter-wave.com/OBs/OB_Design.pdf


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

The first one looks like it would work but it would have to be used in pairs due to a very low 6mm xmax and 12mm xmech. 

The second one, no way. Fs is 40hz. Xmax is 3.9mm. Efficiency is great but that would be better off used as a large midbass or maybe a woofer going down to 45hz at the lowest, but not a subwoofer. It just doesn't have the displacement of even an average 10"'subwoofer. I was thinking the Qts is <.2 was pretty low but with a huge Vas of 9', it would probably work out to a mid Q design in a trunk. 

I would try the first linked subs since they're only $39. I see no reason why they wouldn't sound good but you're not going to be playing any sub bass heavy music at high volumes even with the pair. I'm sure they will get plenty loud for any type of loud "SQ" listening, it's like having a "regular" 12" sub displacement wise. My only worry is if you're looking to explore IB's bottomless bass on pipe organ music and crank those 16hz to 20hz notes or try to shake the whole car you're going to be disappointed.


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## Beau (Oct 8, 2005)

BuickGN said:


> The second one, no way. Fs is 40hz. Xmax is 3.9mm. Efficiency is great but that would be better off used as a large midbass or maybe a woofer going down to 45hz at the lowest, but not a subwoofer. /QUOTE]
> 
> I thought the same thing. I was very surprised to see how well respected the 15A is; although IB and OB are not the interchangeable. But Martin King is the dude, so I may pick up two, and use them in an H-frame (home use).
> 
> ...


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## edzyy (Aug 18, 2011)

Plenty of High FS, low qts subs work IB

For example
B&C 15NW100 is a lightweight very high power 15" woofer for speaker subwoofer systems. B&C 15NW100 Speakers - B&C 15" 15NW100 high power speaker for speaker subwoofer systems. B&C 15NW100 high power speakers available now.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

I'm sure they work, anything will work, and I've always stated that low Q will not only work, I prefer it for IB use. But high Fs isn't a good idea when there are so many subs available with lower Fs. Higher Fs has always seemed more peaky or buzzy to me. The Fsc is likely to end up pretty high with such a huge Vas, especially in pairs and they would have to be used in pairs. 

Even so, I wouldn't have condemned the second set of subs if it weren't for the 3.9mm xmax. I would have warned that its not optimal and EQ will probably have to be used. And as I said with those, system Q would probably end up being considerably higher than Qts with Vas being that high so the low Qts isn't a problem. 

Now I want to model them badly.


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## Beau (Oct 8, 2005)

Well, if you are going to model, it might be a good idea to throw these into the mix. Admittedly more expensive, but I believe they would still fall within the OPs budget.

Dayton Audio IB385-8 15" Infinite Baffle Subwoofer


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

Beau said:


> Well, if you are going to model, it might be a good idea to throw these into the mix Admittedly more expensive, but I believe they would still fall within the OPs budget.
> 
> Dayton Audio IB385-8 15" Infinite Baffle Subwoofer


I'm going to a "3rd" of July party in a few but tomorrow I'll have the whole day free to model and do nothing. Let me know if there are any others you would like to see. 

Those look like awesome subs. The only potential problem is they're designed for home (true) IB. The Vas is huge. It might push the Qtc up too high but the model will say for sure. One might work well. Two would likely push Qtc too high almost for sure.


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## Beau (Oct 8, 2005)

BuickGN said:


> I'm going to a "3rd" of July party in a few but tomorrow I'll have the whole day free to model and do nothing. Let me know if there are any others you would like to see.
> 
> Those look like awesome subs. The only potential problem is they're designed for home (true) IB. The Vas is huge. It might push the Qtc up too high but the model will say for sure. One might work well. Two would likely push Qtc too high almost for sure.


The VAS on the $35 Eminator 2515 is pretty stinking huge too (but for $35/ea???).

Thanks for your intelligent and well intended comments. I am always willing to learn from those having far more real world experience than me. Mostly, I know what I know - but - I'll be the first to point out - that can be limited at times.

Some forums have just been reduced to name calling and insults.

In most (but not all) ways, this forum has never been like that (although some of the more recent - opinion/emotion based - threads suggest some of the respectful decorum may be declining).


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## turbo5upra (Oct 3, 2008)

I have a pair of the Dayton ib 15's I need to install in the ceiling of my friends garage... Nice woofers but I think there are better options for a car.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

Beau said:


> The VAS on the $35 Eminator 2515 is pretty stinking huge too (but for $35/ea???).
> 
> Thanks for your intelligent and well intended comments. I am always willing to learn from those having far more real world experience than me. Mostly, I know what I know - but - I'll be the first to point out - that can be limited at times.
> 
> ...


Unfortunately many of the very knowledgeable posters which were also those who were able to debate without getting pissed. I was guilty many times of getting emotional. My knowledge level was in the bottom 10%. Once those guys got tired of the BS and left it was an eye opener. I've tried to be better since then. Sometimes the more objective number based arguments used to bother me, now I miss them and the info learned. I still believe in subjective reviews but I sure wish we had the same knowledge level as we used to. 

Anyway, if I needed subs for my IB setup I would have no problem trying those subs. I think they would sound fine, maybe even great. That's enough displacement to get plenty loud for most people. You'll be disappointed if you're a bass head but it's plenty for loud SQ type listening. There's an online calculator which requires only cone area and excursion to give you spl. It's obviously before cabin gain by that's not hard to find and its great for comparison purposes.

Those have more displacement than my old single 12" IB setup and that setup was enough to make non audio people uncomfortable and was a very fun, good sounding setup. If you try them (not sure if you're in the market) let us know. 

I made up my mind yesterday that I'm running either one or two JL TW-5 13.5s in the new car. I'm going to do it so I can still fold the seats down and they will only take up 2.6" of trunk space. Only 11mm linear excursion but 25mm total excursion and almost as much cone area as a 15". They should be way more than enough. 

The fiancée does not want me to touch it even though I bought it for me and she took it away lol. I'm literally going to try and get away with her not knowing there are subs in there. 

I'm surprised no one has ever used these IB. 2.6" of trunk space lost for two 13.5" subs!


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## T3mpest (Dec 25, 2005)

Pseudonym said:


> im having a toss up situation here. its between the ultimax subs or something from sundown. currently in talks with jacob about whats best suited for IB in the sundown lineup.


Your going to want the most mechanical clearance you can get, but won't need motor force nearly as much, or thermal powerhandling. I'd be suprised if he doesn't go with a sundown X for your application. They are heavy, but your getting a real 30mm of xmax and 50mm xmech or thereabouts. (one way)


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## Pseudonym (Apr 17, 2006)

theres a budget... i began by asking him which would be better for an IB setup, the sa or sd, and gave him a budget that would afford me 2 12's from either of those lines. still waiting to hear back his opinion.


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## bigjeep127 (May 12, 2013)

BuickGN said:


> With all else being equal, large subs are usually better in every way over small subs. Large subs are just as "tight" and "quick" and accurate as small subs. My 15s sound just as quick and accurate as a pair of 8s or 10s. It would be best to use a pair of 15s in a sealed setup too but most people don't want to give up the trunk space for the huge box that's required.
> 
> Infinite baffle gives better cone control than a sealed box so any sub you use IB will sound tighter. It sounds the opposite of what you would think but IB will just about always sound better than sealed.
> 
> ...


Great post. Your posts have got me really considering trying IB.

What are your thoughts on trying my two Sundown SD-3 10's in IB? They're new so I don't see anyone who has tried them. They're made for tight sealed boxes though. The flat/shallow magnets would leave me with a lot of trunk space, I could add more if needed I suppose.

SD-3 Series

My car is a new Accord, fairly large trunk. Here's my build for reference...

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...l-build-2015-accord-sport-pictures-fixed.html


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## mfenske (Feb 7, 2006)

I did a JBL GTO-1514 in my Sonata when I had it and I was SUPER impressed with it. Had more output than I'd expected and sounded AMAZING!!!! I'm planning on using the same sub in the wife's car in a similar IB config (unless I sell it beforehand).


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

How is everyone securing their baffles when using heavyweight subwoofers in this application? 

I'm considering an "H" shaped baffle, with sides to help support the weight, plus give enough room for excursion behind the seat.


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## bigbubba (Mar 23, 2011)

chithead said:


> How is everyone securing their baffles when using heavyweight subwoofers in this application?
> 
> I'm considering an "H" shaped baffle, with sides to help support the weight, plus give enough room for excursion behind the seat.


I have 2 of the old IDW-15 subs in a baffle that has 2 triangle supports on the front side and is attached to the frame work behind the rear seat area with 12+ 1/4-20 bolts. I used threaded nutserts for all the mounting points.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Good info. Thank you. I'm trying to figure out just how to mount this thing, as it appears with a triple layer baffle, and the pair of subs, could be approximately 130 pounds being added. Just not sure the sheet metal could support that. Triangle braces is a great idea.


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## bigbubba (Mar 23, 2011)

If you look on the 2nd page of my Monte build thread you will see how mine was done. My baffle is 4 layers of 3/4" mdf. The only thing I forgot to take picks of were all the threaded inserts on the braces. I mm think I weighed mine at 165 with subs installed.


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