# For the Love if I-Drive ;) E60 5 series sq set up...



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

as some of you may know, working with BMWs are a pita, working with newer generation bimmers featuring the infamous I-Drive is even bigger pita...but...had to deal with this nonethelss 

car is a 2006 bwm 525i...and ALL the equipment was supplied by the customer, so please dont ask me why certain equipment was chosen 

i want to thanks my boy Jeremy, for coming and helping me wire up the car, he wired up the CES bimmer last year and did a great job and did a great job once again 

the goals:

1. install a new HU into the car (not pleasant to do lol)

2. very nice SQ out of the system

3. keep all trunk space available as this is a daily driver for a family with kids.


lets get started.

the customer supplied me with a Rockford Denon 8250 headunit...the hardpart is putting it into the car. The I-drive, as i found out working with the CES car last year, will go bezerk or simply not work if ANY part of it is unplugged from the chain. meaning, say you removed the stock CD player, the screen acutally wont even light up anymore...so, this means, EVERYYTHING stock in the dash, related to the I-drive, must be kept.

this leaves only one spot for a new HU to go. and is only possible, on the non-navi equiped bmws. this is, to put the HU in the spot of the stock pocket, below the stock CD player. 

but htis involves trimming the stock panel extremely thin to accomodate it, and its still an insanely tight fit due to the stock wiring and vents in that area.

infact, I would venture to say, that if hte HU was any more than 1/16" tall, 1/8" wider, or 1/4" deeper, this whole thing wouldnt have worked.

so...after the same amount of cursing and finess, the 8250 now resides in this spot:










obviously, a black HU would look more integrated, but again, i didnt pick the HU, but its amber lighting does match well with the bmw's interior.

here are two quick build up pics of the pice, first its cut to fit hte HU and them molded and sanded...you can see just how thin the panel had to be cut below the HU to fit it, down to about 1/8 of an inch...










and then painted and the HU attached to the facotry module below it ready to go back into the car:










sorry for all the dark pics, as it gets dark around 4:30 nowadays, and by the time i snap these pics, its usually well past 6...

the system consiss of zapco DC reference amps, and the tuning cable can be taken out of hte glovebox, to tune with a laptop:


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

Front stage consists of a set of Seas Lotus reference 6.5" two way comps, the midbass were mounted into pod attached to the lower door. Since the E60 only has stock 4" front seakres in the middle of hte door, and kicks was not allowed by the customer, this was the only choice avaiable  the speaker itself, is acutally slightly larger than the area in the lower door, so it was biult out a little and aimed slightly upward and backwards.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

here are some build up pics of hte pod:

first, a rear mold was take, dampened and a ring baffle attached:










then it was fleeced and resined, after htat dried, it was strengthened from the backside with glass, and then each pod recieved first a layer of modeling clay to kill resonantion, and then a layer of dampening to kill resonatoin even more and also to hold the clay in place, here you see one pod alread finished, while the other has clay in it waiting for damping to be applied.










then the sanded smooth










and finally, they were vinyled, and the back side of hte door car, also recieved a lot of sound proofing.










and finally, the pod attached to the door:










same goes for the other side:


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

the tweeters were molded into the stock A pillar, off axis aimed at each other:





































two quick pics of the pillar, first the mold and then sanded smooth:










and vinyl applied, tweeter installed and ready to go back into the car:


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

so thats it for hte interior. moving onto the trunk. as mentioned, the goal is to keep EVERYTHING in the spare tire well, quite a task for 3 amplifiers and a single sub. but here is the normal view, the stock carpet goes ontop for a 100 percent stock appearance, not an ounce of trunk space was lost:










remove hte carpet, and here is what you see, the stock bmw spare tire coveringpanel was replaced by a panel fake floor covered in black suede, suede was chosen instead of vinyl for more durability, as this trunk will get used a lot. two grille pieces are in the fake floor.










remove te two grilles, and you can see a 10" Seas lotus subwoofer and one of hte 3 zpaco amps, a dc 360.4. the goal was never to be showy in this install but to be stealthy and space saving:





































two quick pics at below the fake floor, first the stacked zapco amps and their wiring, quick lucky actually, each tier wtih 2.5" of spacing (just right for the amps), builds up to be almost hte perfect height needed. 

one DC350.2 powers the tweeters at hte bottom, another 350.2 poweres the sub in the middle, and the aforementoined 360.4 is bridged on the midbass at the top:










and a .75 cubft sealed semi-fiberglass enclsoure houses the seas 10 and sits behind all the amps:










a snug fit eh? 

got some quick tuning on it and hte car sounds quite good. stage is very high and well cnetered, pretty wide with good depths. midbass is strong and snappy (more so than i would hvae thought being thats an attached door pod type, and midrange and highs are smooth as characteristc of the lotus. bass blends well, though with only a single 10 and 300 watts in such a well sealed car, its not earthshattering loud...but it serves it purpose well

i think i am going to limit myself to just one I drive install a year lol...


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## Vestax (Aug 16, 2005)

After doing bimmers for CES, you must be a pro.. LOL!


Wow expensive ride, expensive equipment... that guy must be rich. I hope he paid you good money for quality work.


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## norcalsfinest (Aug 30, 2008)

looks good bing. How'd you attach the pods to the doors?


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

duct tape...rolled over, 3M brand...

lol 

a million and one screws and speednuts... i always put on a crazy amount, dont want them to come off or loose, besides, all that clay and dmapening, the pods prolly weight close to 15lbs wiht the speaker in them...


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## jayhawkblk (May 29, 2007)

looks good B. Did he vent the rear deck. Since these Bimmers trunks are sealed very well. I am in the process of redoing my car. Great job on those does. And yes I drive is a Pita Next time I am using the factory souce unit and will get an oem intigration piece. Hopefully next year I will be adding and M5 to the garage next to my 530. But we shall see. You do great work my man. If I had the time I would send my car back out to you. But I have made the car my daily driver.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

ooo M5...damn man!!! cant wait to see, send me pics when yo uget it  no rear deck venting, wasnt in he plans or hte budget, to do it properly involves quite a bit of work...i am surprised by the differences between this and yours htough, for example, very few screws was torx in this car, majority simple phillips...where as yours was full of torx everyhwere  difference between the 06 and yours?


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## evan (Dec 2, 2006)

Very cool! Do you have any detail pics of how you made the sub/amp grills and what they're made of?


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

one is just mdf wtih vinyl, the other is a mdf ring, rabetted, and grille mesh attached, and then grille cloth pulled over it ..

dont hvae pics of that but if you dig through my previous installs, some of them may have detailed pics of grilles.

b


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## Roadmaster11 (Jul 14, 2008)

How much would you charge for speaker pods? I want to get some built like yours and i don't want to be over charged. Their for a 2008 Hyundai Accent.


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## jayhawkblk (May 29, 2007)

simplicityinsound said:


> ooo M5...damn man!!! cant wait to see, send me pics when yo uget it  no rear deck venting, wasnt in he plans or hte budget, to do it properly involves quite a bit of work...i am surprised by the differences between this and yours htough, for example, very few screws was torx in this car, majority simple phillips...where as yours was full of torx everyhwere  difference between the 06 and yours?


Wow no Torx that is unusual for a bimmer. Yea I am working on a M5 but gotta get the wedding paid for first and recoupe my money from the market some how. So it wont be until late in 09 at the rate this economy is going. so with out it vented how is the sub output?


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## DaleCarter (Jan 3, 2008)

Wow, just wow!

What can you NOT do?

I want to install three amps and a 10" sub in the glovebox of my Escort and I am pretty sure you can make it fit, sound great and be stealthy.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

wedding? congrats Marquies  am I invited?  

the suboutput aint bad, it blends well, sounds decent, but not like yours of course, but then again, yours had two 12s and three times the poewr, so its hard to compare...i dont know hwat your car would have sounded like just a single 10 off of 300 watts.

dale, sure, i can do it, as long as you dont mind me molding hte glovebox down and taking up the etnire front passenger quadrant of the car lol


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## FrankstonCarAudio (Feb 2, 2008)

Once again an outstanding job, Bing.
I share your pain, working with late model BMW's!.. iDrive is the curse of installers! 

Looking forward to your next job... 

Mark


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## lowpoke (Jun 1, 2008)

**** Bing, your work is SO immaculate. I keep coming back time and time again to look at your installs.


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## jdc753 (Nov 14, 2007)

Amazing work as always and certainly a challenge for sure. 

Thanks again for sharing yet another amazing build and for all the detail pics.


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## Powers (Apr 10, 2008)

I didn't read all the replies, but how does the RF/D head unit work with the I-Drive? Is it a selectable input now?


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

it doesnt, the system, everything i installed,all the wiring, is completely separate from the factory I drive system, even down to the antenna  no part of the stock system or I drive was touched or removed, its all still in the car.


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## circa40 (Jan 20, 2008)

Damn another great looking install! Do you ever sleep??? lol


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## Powers (Apr 10, 2008)

simplicityinsound said:


> it doesnt, the system, everything i installed,all the wiring, is completely separate from the factory I drive system, even down to the antenna  no part of the stock system or I drive was touched or removed, its all still in the car.


So does the I-Drive not have sound at all? 

I'm confused, as you can tell. If they both have sound, it would seem like they have to connect at some point.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

well, the I drive is not just the stereo, its the computer interface system that is hooked to vritually every facet of the newer bimmers, from audio, to climate, to car's maintaence info, to trip computer to etc etc...

the trouble with it, is that you cannot just pop out hte stock headunit, and mold in a aftermarket one, like you can do on ohter cars, beucase the minute you disconnect anything from it, it goes nuts.

but as far as wiring goes, why do they have to connect? i have done several cars where the stock system is left intact, including my own car.

stock system:

stock headunit with stock wiring to stock amplifier, then stock speaker wires to stock speakers

the new system:

new heaudnit with its own wires, with RCAs going to new amplifiers, then new speaker wires to new speakers installed in non-stock locations.

completely and utterly separate from the stock system.

basically, the new system is for audio, the I drive will just handle the rest of the car's functions from now on, but its audio component IS avaiable if one wants to use it.


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## drake78 (May 27, 2007)

You did it again.... with another spectacular seamless install. top notch baybay...


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## Powers (Apr 10, 2008)

simplicityinsound said:


> well, the I drive is not just the stereo, its the computer interface system that is hooked to vritually every facet of the newer bimmers, from audio, to climate, to car's maintaence info, to trip computer to etc etc...
> 
> the trouble with it, is that you cannot just pop out hte stock headunit, and mold in a aftermarket one, like you can do on ohter cars, beucase the minute you disconnect anything from it, it goes nuts.
> 
> ...


The non-stock location is what I didn't notice the first two times around. Now it makes sense to me!


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## Big_Valven (Aug 20, 2008)

Fantastic install, I along with countless others look up to the sort of skill you have here, and the cars to put it into practice with.

The Idrive, while I haven't had the joy of experiencing myself, seems like so many gadgets these days - the controls are just not "human" enough. Oh how I miss the days of having a button or knob for every function.


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## redfred18t (Oct 2, 2008)

Another amazing install. Good work man


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## jayhawkblk (May 29, 2007)

simplicityinsound said:


> it doesnt, the system, everything i installed,all the wiring, is completely separate from the factory I drive system, even down to the antenna  no part of the stock system or I drive was touched or removed, its all still in the car.


Hey B what did you do about the antena? My Fiance complains about no radio in the car I on the other hand could car less.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

i ran an external antenna extension from the radio, from whcih point, originally i was going to add one of those powered antenna boosters that sorta looks like a alarm atenna on the windshield coming out of the headliner, but hten, as i ran the long extension up the A pillar, it seems that all the radio stations comes in positively, wit hthe extension cable perhaps acting as an antenna, so i left it at that...it gets as good of a reception as my own car acutally. 

b


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## frmdrkside (Jul 13, 2008)

Looks good as always Bing!

Thats alot of stuff to fit in the tire well, nice job.


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## jayhawkblk (May 29, 2007)

simplicityinsound said:


> i ran an external antenna extension from the radio, from whcih point, originally i was going to add one of those powered antenna boosters that sorta looks like a alarm atenna on the windshield coming out of the headliner, but hten, as i ran the long extension up the A pillar, it seems that all the radio stations comes in positively, wit hthe extension cable perhaps acting as an antenna, so i left it at that...it gets as good of a reception as my own car acutally.
> 
> b


Hey B can you give me the model number of the part you used?


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

its just a 6 foot motorola antenna extension cable, any best buy should have them  if you want to wire up the powered antenna thingy, i still have the one here that i didnt use, let me know if you want it? itshould provide even better reception, its htis one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

if you want its yours, $35


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## jayhawkblk (May 29, 2007)

Cool thanks B, I am gonna go back oem HU if I can get my hands on a H900 so I can use my idrive functions and blutooth and what not.


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## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

great install!!! but i will NEVER buy a car with I-drive, MMI, or whatever other name it goes by.


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## jayhawkblk (May 29, 2007)

jonnyanalog said:


> great install!!! but i will NEVER buy a car with I-drive, MMI, or whatever other name it goes by.


The iDrive is really not as bad as people make it out to be. It is actually very easy to use. I can access every function of the car with the push of one button apposed to loading down the dash with a gazillion buttons. It keeps the cabin clean. It just does not lend the car to audio upgrades easily. Lets face it most Bimmer owners are not really looking to upgrade the audio in the car especially 5 and 7 series owners. But nothing drivers like a Bimmer IMO


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## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

One button and several sub menus.... It make be easy to use but I still see it as a distraction. I like Bimmers all the same but I'd still rather have a pre-bangle car like an E36 M3.


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## jayhawkblk (May 29, 2007)

jonnyanalog said:


> One button and several sub menus.... It make be easy to use but I still see it as a distraction. I like Bimmers all the same but I'd still rather have a pre-bangle car like an E36 M3.


I can see where you are coming from it makes sense. I guess I hardly use that stuff so I dont find it a distraction. I just get in the car and go.


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## methodsound (Oct 1, 2009)

I like the simple clean install theme. That is one lucky customer.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

One thing I never understood...Bing when making you enclosures are: you make the baffle and then wrap in fleece and fiberglasses and apply a layer of bondo and sand, which makes for a smooth surface, but where is the strength added? I don't see layer of chop mat or cloth being added.


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## slomofo (Mar 30, 2009)

MaXaZoR said:


> One thing I never understood...Bing when making you enclosures are: you make the baffle and then wrap in fleece and fiberglasses and apply a layer of bondo and sand, which makes for a smooth surface, but where is the strength added? I don't see layer of chop mat or cloth being added.


The fleece impregnated with resin is very strong, especially in a small panel like this.


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## slomofo (Mar 30, 2009)

thought you might like this, an idea for your customer


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## KAPendley (Nov 19, 2007)

Great job Bing!!

Hey, what sound deadener are you using? Doesnt look like ed duct tape to me.


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## vwtoby (Oct 28, 2005)

nice install, on the door pods, did you seal up the door as well? or just deaden the back of the panel?


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

slomofo said:


> The fleece impregnated with resin is very strong, especially in a small panel like this.


I don't want to rain on anyone's parade, but if fleece impregnated with resin IS NOT very strong, I can stick my finger through it with little effort. If you dont reinforced with fiberglass on the backside, then they will flex and the paint or fiberglass will crack in a matter of months or sooner. Knowing of so many fabricators who don't reinforce, I am hesitant to give him the benefit of the doubt regardless of the quality of finish.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

okay, ummm to clear things up...

on anyhting i build that is for midbass, midrange or tweeter:

1. mold cloth pulled and resined (fleece or tshirt material or grille cloth despends on the situation)

2. the pod is then reinforced from the INSIDE with fiberglass. on bigger pods where i can get cloth into it, i usually lay down 3-4 layers of cloth to start off with

3. on the pods that is too small to reach into all the areas, chopstrand/resin mixture is poured into the inside, forming a very strong side wall of about 1/8-1/4" thick

4. after that, an additional layer of duraglass/resin milkshake is poured into the inside, to form an additional layer of reinforcement thats another 1/8" thick.

5. on top of that, if the install is of an sq variety, a layer of clay, and then a layer of sound proofing is added. 

6. total thickness of the sidewall on the midbass pods, is about 1/4"-3/8" thick in reinforcement, and then the clay and sound proofing. this is strong enough that i can usually stand my entire weight on it. infact, i would say the sidewalls are stronger than the base mold, whcih is usually around 6-7 layer of cloth.

7. on tweeter pods where space is limited, usually its the mold cloth and then a thick layer of duraglass/resin mixture poured into it using a squeeze bottle with a thin tip, making it almost a sollid shape throughout.

if you read every post i make when i have pods, kicks, pillars, i usually mention it  though of course not in this detail 

from this post, look at the words below the piture of the pod build, post number 3:

"then it was fleeced and resined, after htat dried, it was strengthened from the backside with glass,"

hope that clears up? i NEVER rely on just fleece resin, while i dont htink you can poke a hole through it with your finger unless you have iron fingers of death  it has no strength to resist bending and cracking


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## lamonts62 (Jan 7, 2009)

nice work,i like the nice clean and simple look


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## Mitsu1grn (Sep 22, 2008)

Greetings!!

The next time someone brings you a BMW/Audi/Mercedes/Volvo/Porsche/VW or any car from Europe that utilizes the MOST system, you will have a solution for them when you cannot remove the I drive type device.

For those of you that don't know, when the MOST system is used in that car, everything electrical in the car is tied into everything else. You cannot break the digital chain or the car will not work, or at least a great deal of it will not work. Now, if you want to keep the "factory head unit" you could install an after-market interface like a "clean-sweep" or something similar. That would be that except when the car has an existing factory warranty, any wire, and I do mean any wire, that is cut or stripped back will void the warranty on any electrical part of the car. That is basically the car folks. So, what do you do?

There is a device that is being brought into the country that is known as the MOTUS lab's M.O.S.T. interface. It is a black box that has a digital input that allows any factory head piece to be utilized with all of the factory functions intact and working. The box is quite powerful and has a ton of functions available. The way to install this is quite simple. There is a digital cable running through the car. Find the amp in the car and you will find the cable. Simply unplug the cable and plug it into the MOST interface. Now, in order for the car to keep working, you simply take the digital cable that is provided with the MOST interface, plug into the output side of the box and then plug it into the factory amp. The digital chain has not been compromised and everything works. What is going to take place is the MOST Interface will see the digital bit stream and separate the audio portion of the bit stream and send it to the processor. The remaining part of the information is sent to the digital output side of the processor and the car will function as normal. As each car has a different protocol(s), this system is controlled by a computer interface. You will access the companies web site and find the type of car you have, ( 2006 Audi A6 as an example). You will download the codes for that car and flash it and you are ready to start tuning your car.

Your customer's warranty is not voided, they have there car remaining factory looking and no one knows that they have a high end system in the car. Now, what you get in addition to just the interface is a very powerful DSP Processor. Some of the major functions that you available are:

1) Aux Preamp output for OEM MOST bud system
2) up to 8 Analog Preamp RCA outputs with up to 4.2 Vrms
3) No remote input signal required
4) All head unit commands are still supported 
5) Full DSP capabilities on each output:
a) 6/12/18/24/30/36 db per octave digital crosovers HP/BP/LP
b) Digital Delay 
c) 3 or 5 band parametric EQ 
d) 0 degrees or 180 degrees phase control
e) Sub phase adjustable by 5 degree steps
6) PC software utilized to access all DSP functions
7) DSP is updated in realtime and can be saved to multiple presets
8) Firmware can be upgraded in the field
9) Utilizes 24bit/192 khz Burr Brown DAC's
10) Auxillary input ( IPOD or Bluetooth)

This piece is unique in that it is the only company so far in the world that has worked with the MOST company to have something like this for the aftermarket 12 volt industry. If anyone would like more information on this piece, please feel free to contact me at my Email address [email protected].


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

Mitsu1grn said:


> Greetings!!
> 
> The next time someone brings you a BMW/Audi/Mercedes/Volvo/Porsche/VW or any car from Europe that utilizes the MOST system, you will have a solution for them when you cannot remove the I drive type device.
> 
> ...


awesome!! i will be sure to contact you when the next euro comes in  when was this released? i did some seraching but didnt find anything a year ago when i did this car?


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## tintbox (Oct 25, 2008)

wow.


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## Mitsu1grn (Sep 22, 2008)

Greetings!!

We have the first 10 units coming in next week. We have several Beta units here already and we have had excellent response from the dealers who have had them. We are going to be bringing more in after the first of the year. There is a dealer of ours in Vegas that does lots of porsche's and he is just exstatic over how easy this makes his life and his customers lives! It is not inexpensive by any means. Retail is $1995.00 but when you think what it would cost for someone to buy an aftermarket DVD/NAV unit and have you custom build it in the dash and then you have to tie into the speaker wiring with a clean sweep type product, they come out ahead and you have a very happy customer on your hands!!!

Keep us in mind when you need some help with a European car!

Nick Wingate Jr.
National Sales Training Coordinator
Focal America/Orca Design and MFG


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## slomofo (Mar 30, 2009)

MaXaZoR said:


> I don't want to rain on anyone's parade, but if fleece impregnated with resin IS NOT very strong, I can stick my finger through it with little effort..


Hello
No you can't 
Thanks
Bye Bye now
with that said i dare you to resin coat fleece on both sides, let it dry and try it. oh wait, you're using the "expanding fleece" that has lots of holes like swiss cheese. oh, I see now, how could I have been so foolish. 
buddy, i'm from the way back old school when no one used fleece and we used grill cloth and reinforced it. you couldn't poke your finger thru the grill cloth then and it was not as strong as fleece. I just built an enclosure for an Alpine Type E 12 with the woofer inverted and flushed in the face with a full fiberglass mounting face. I used fleece for the baffle. After it was dry it was rigid enough by itself. i decided to reinforce with chopped mat as a precautionary measure. It's not like it's the hull of a boat or anything


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Actually I think your the one that needs to take a walk. Fleece and resin alone is not rigid or durable enough for much of anything. I asked Bing if this was the case with his enclosures, and he more than went above and beyond explaining that he uses chop mat and/or cloth on the inside of his enclosures, followed by a milkshake and deadening to kill any resonance, and that my friend is the proper way to do it. So You must be one of the many fabricators who don't reinforce  Thanks for playing though 

and also thank you Bing for clearing up my question.


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## slomofo (Mar 30, 2009)

MaXaZoR said:


> Actually I think your the one that needs to take a walk. Fleece and resin alone is not rigid or durable enough for much of anything. I asked Bing if this was the case with his enclosures, and he more than went above and beyond explaining that he uses chop mat and/or cloth on the inside of his enclosures, followed by a milkshake and deadening to kill any resonance, and that my friend is the proper way to do it. * So You must be one of the many fabricators who don't reinforce*  Thanks for playing though
> 
> and also thank you Bing for clearing up my question.


i know that reading must be one of those things you do when the teacher makes you but like i said in my prior post, i used fleece and reinforced with chopped mat. there's no flex, none. you said you could put your finger through it and i called ********. now shut up and quit derailing this post. :thumbsup:


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

okay okay guys, settle down


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## slomofo (Mar 30, 2009)

sorry


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## khanhfat (Feb 4, 2008)

the owner must have looked very hard for that Denford 8250. I'm very curious to get my hands on that unit.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

i think he had that for years just sitting around, used to be in another car of his.

want mine? i have an 8250ti in my car that i am thinking about swapping for something else, namely something that gives me more expansion capability 

b


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## Inventor (Sep 1, 2010)

Picking up an old thread: In Sweden the std system is without amp. All speakers are wired from HU. The front speakers and subs is even parallell wired!

So putting in an separate HU for audio is a possible way to go. I also think the idrive is easy to use and functional.

And I was thinking: if you put in a processor for example the MTX re-q connected to the std HU you will get a low level output. Then you connect that to the aux input in the new HU and let it power up on ignition and have it in aux mode all the time, you can use the idrive with radio etc in everyday use.

If you use a new HU with inputs like usb, ipod, sd card etc and maybe dvd playback you can use any source and connect lcd screens in the backseat etc and run those from this unit.

A possible way to go?


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## bimmerman11 (Aug 27, 2009)

Impressive work.


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