# Wooden Speaker baffles - Are they worth it?



## wklose99 (Aug 10, 2010)

I have done a bit of searching and can't find a whole lot of info on this. I have 6"x8" speaker holes in my doors and I need to install 6.5" speakers. I thought about making custom wooden speaker baffles, but then I figured it would be really difficult given my bad carpentry skills. 

I emailed one guy who makes custom wooden baffles and hes going to get back with me on a quote, but I was wondering if wooden baffles are really worth the time/money to build or have custom ordered?

I looked online, but about the only 'common' item I could find to get the job done are plastic conversion brackets:

Scosche Sa68 Speaker Adapters (6" X 8") - Car Audio and Video Accessories - Shopping.com

I am thinking about just going with those and lining them with CCF or MLV before mounting in the door and before mounting the speaker on them to prevent vibration. 

Any input is appreciated


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## nochancemrp (Aug 22, 2010)

Have you checked eBay? I know a lot of people are making MDF spacers and they're cheaper than the plastic ones. With such a high demand you'd figure SOMEONE out there is taking advantage of making adapters? Maybe I'm wrong. :surprised:


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## wklose99 (Aug 10, 2010)

ebay has some MDF spacers, but that won't help me convert a 6x8 to 6.5" will it?

I'll prolly just end up doing what this guy did, which is screw some MDF to the hole with an appropriate sized cutout for the speaker:


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## sq_assasin (Nov 10, 2008)

All you need is a jigsaw, some mdf, and about 30 minutes. It really isn't hard, bud.


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## X-runner (Aug 7, 2010)

If I were you, I would definitely find a pre fabricated product. I too dont have much wood working experience, but I made my own. Took forever, was very effective, but I just couldnt get the cosmetics like the pros do. 

Pic of mine allowing me to fit my MW170


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## Toyopl (Apr 3, 2010)

if you're getting wood baffle remember to waterseal it, you don't want water getting to that thing and making it warp, crack or expand.


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## finkster (Jul 17, 2009)

Toyopl said:


> if you're getting wood baffle remember to waterseal it, you don't want water getting to that thing and making it warp, crack or expand.


I second this ^^

Make sure to put at least 2 layers of waterseal on it and soak it good. Drying times are faster in a (bake box) which is really just a cardboard box with a fan or heater blowing in one side and a vent hole on the other.

But yes, an mdf baffle sounds much better than a normal cheap plastic baffle, especially in midbass.


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## wklose99 (Aug 10, 2010)

X-runner said:


> If I were you, I would definitely find a pre fabricated product. I too dont have much wood working experience, but I made my own. Took forever, was very effective, but I just couldnt get the cosmetics like the pros do.
> 
> Pic of mine allowing me to fit my MW170


Yeah that's what I was thinking. Since I am not going for aesthetics here I might just make my own though and waterseal them.


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

I made some out of 1/2" ply in about 15 minutes for a set of 4" comps in 6x8 holes. Ran them for a couple years with no problems. Only need a $20 jig saw and hunk of $10 a sheet ply or whatever it is. It is ideal if you can make them larger to cover more of your door, that wood is free dampening/noise killer and makes the baffle stronger for better bass. Maybe MDF is a hair better but with outdoor (not treated) rated ply I don't worry about water I've never had one get damaged by the time I swapped drivers or got rid of the car. If that is the case you can always slap some paint/stain/peel and stick/etc on it to add life. If you are not into making stuff or have no place to, then buy a plastic/MDF one and fix it up with deadening/waterproofing/whatever. MDF will implode if it gets wet and likes to strip out screws if its not thick.


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## nochancemrp (Aug 22, 2010)

So what's the best way to mount MDF spacers/cutouts? Glue them down, seal the edges, screws to reinforce?


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## schmiddr2 (Aug 10, 2009)

I use foam strips from rolls, between the baffle and the door and between the speaker and the baffle. Then screw it down; sometimes requires adding hardware or even using bolts with locking nuts. Also, do a search for modeling clay.


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## MaXius (Dec 18, 2009)

Do you have any plastics places with dumpsters outside nearby?

I've been raiding the dumpster of one near me lately, and i'm getting a good stock of bits of HDPE (think thick chopping board) which would be good for this purpose..


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## Catman (Mar 18, 2008)

MaXius said:


> Do you have any plastics places with dumpsters outside nearby?
> 
> I've been raiding the dumpster of one near me lately, and i'm getting a good stock of bits of HDPE (think thick chopping board) which would be good for this purpose..


You beat me to it ...I was going to recommend a $10 cutting board from WalMart.

>^..^<


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## wklose99 (Aug 10, 2010)

so dense plastic is better for this than wood? just because its more durable or are there SQ advantages too?


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## MaXius (Dec 18, 2009)

It's just for the waterproof factor.. if you don't seal the mdf properly and you have leaky doors... and also mdf tends to strip thread easily.


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

Catman said:


> You beat me to it ...I was going to recommend a $10 cutting board from WalMart.
> 
> >^..^<


I wouldn't recommend this personally given the OP's lack of carpentry skills. The cutting boards can be frustrating to cut, the shavings melt back on into the cut. MDF or wood will be much easier for your first time. 

I'm sure you can find someone locally who you can take your stuff to. If they already have the tools it's pretty easy to knock out some spacers pretty quickly.


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## blazeplacid (May 19, 2008)

trace your factory speaker and then just trim off the excess when cutting


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