# A simple way to tune courtesy of cmusic.......



## Mr Marv

This is an excerpt from a tuning thread I started on ECA a while back posted courtesy of Chuck Music aka "cmusic" here on the forum  Some of you have probably seen this before as I have seen the link posted (and posted it myself) in many threads so I figured I'd just post the whole thing here for all to see and try.  

Chuck wanted me to remind everyone that he wrote these tips for someone using a 3-way system with an active crossover between the sub and mids and a passive crossover on the mids and tweeters however the tips can be applied to a completely active 2, 3, or 4-way system. The great thing with these tips is ANYONE can do them without any "special" gear other than a test disc, music you like and most importantly your ears . 

I have used these tips (along with a few other tips I've learned from the "gurus" ) with great success over the years. If you follow the sequence just as it is laid out you may be pleasantly surprised at how great it will sound after you just get the acoustic polarity, levels, crossovers and phase between driver pairs set. 

Also wanted to mention that Chuck hangs around here sometimes so if you have any questions I'm sure he wouldn't mind answering.  Thanks Chuck and here we go! 



> There are several different methods used to tune eqs. This is the one I use. An RTA is not needed if the steps are done correctly. This method uses crossovers and gain settings as the most important factor in tuning. I think the eq should be last in line when tuning. Remember after each step to write down your settings. If the sound gets worse, then you can go back to the previous step’s settings and start over.
> 
> 
> 1. Set all bands flat, as well as the head unit bass and treble.
> 
> 2. Turn off the subs. Using music with a good bass line, run the highpass crossover up and down until the midbasses can play as low as possible without any distortion or excessive door panel vibrations.
> 
> 3. Unhook the mids and tweeters, allowing only the midbasses to play. Listen to mono pink noise or a well-recorded song with a centered vocalist. Test CDs such as the IASCA test CD or Autosound 2000 Test CD 102 or 103 will work great. Listen to where the centered sounds are coming from. Then reverse the polarity of one midbass (Reverse the speaker wires coming from the passive crossover and going to the speaker, just flip the positive and negative wires. I usually flip the driver’s side speaker.) and re-listen to the test CD. If the sounds are more centered then keep it as is. If the centered sounds are more diffuse and un-locatable, then flip the polarity back to where it was originally.
> 
> 4. Then unhook the midbasses and play the mids only and follow the same polarity and listening tests as before. Mark your best settings.
> 
> 5. Do the same procedure for the tweeters.
> 
> 6. When you have tested for the proper polarity from all three ranges of speakers, hook all of them back up with respect to each set of speaker’s best polarity. You can have any combination of polarity, such as all the midbass and tweeters straight and one midrange reversed.
> 
> 7. Now you should have the correct “acoustic” polarity set within each set of speakers. Next is to set the acoustic polarity between the sets of speakers.
> 
> 8. Listen to some very familiar music with a good range of sounds. Then flip both midbass’ polarity and listen again. Before you only flipped one midbass, now you are doing both at the same time. For example if the left midbass was reversed and the right was not before, now the left will be not reversed and the right will be. Listen to the music again. If the midbass is more powerful and full then leave the wiring as is. If the midbass sounds weaker and wrong then restore the wiring as before.
> 
> 9. Perform the same listening tests while flipping the mids and tweeters, and use the wiring configuration that sounds the best.
> 
> 10. If you have went though all these steps adjusting the polarity of the speakers then the system should sound really good without any eq adjustments. You might want to play with the gain adjustments on the crossover and/or amp to better blend all the speakers together.
> 
> 11. Now onto the eq! The first eq step is to adjust the tonality. While listening to familiar music, adjust each individual band up and down slowly. When the music sounds better then move to the next band. Adjust the left and right bands equally. (We’ll get to the separate left and right adjustments soon.) It really does not matter if the bands are boosted or cut, just that it makes the sound better. Not every band needs to be adjusted. In fact if you did steps 1 thru 10 correctly you should not have to adjust over half the bands. Having a 1/3 octave eq does not mean you have to adjust every band. It means you have the ability to adjust each band if needed. Watch out for big jumps from band to band, like one band set to +4 and the next band set to –6.
> 
> 12. Continue through all the bands, take a break, and do the same procedure over again. But this time the adjustments will be smaller as you get the tonality dialed in. This step might take several days, weeks, or longer.
> 
> 13. In tuning you will find some eq bands will raise, lower, move the sound closer, or farther away if adjusted in certain manners. For example, lowering 5 KHz will generally move the soundstage farther away and raising 2 KHz will make the soundstage rise. Each vehicle and system will have different settings that will be the best. The best way to achieve awesome sound is to constantly adjust.
> 
> 14. When you are satisfied with the tonality of the system, it is time to start adjusting the left and right channels separately. These adjustments should not affect the tonality, but improve on the imaging and soundstaging. Using the Autosound 2000 Test CD 102 or 103 “My Disk” listen to the individual frequency pink noise tracks. (Test CD103 has the tracks arranged in an easier configuration.) Each frequency band should sound like it is coming from the center of the soundstage. If one band is off to one side, then use each band’s left and right eq controls as a balance control. This is very similar to the head unit’s balance control, only now you are balancing each frequency band by itself. For example if 200 Hz seems to be shifted to the left of center, lower the left 200 Hz band and raise the right 200 Hz band one dB at a time until the band is centered. If a frequency is shifted to the right, lower the band’s right channel and raise the left channel in small amounts.
> 
> 15. When you have when through all the bands take a break. Then later go back through each band one by one and make any further needed adjustments until all the frequencies are lined up in the center of the soundstage.


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## Need-sq

Marv,

Thanks for posting this up. I'm gonna save it this time to my computer. I think this is truly the best starting point. As you have told me before, if you go through these steps, generally very minimal prosessing needs to be carried out. I think this really gets at the fundamentals, and when I have time, you can bet I will be going through every single step. 

Hope things are well with you. I've been crazy busy going through the process of applying for residencys etc.....I'll give you a shout when I have some down time. take care...


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## ErinH

I did this myself using this post and Fox's "windshield ate my soundstage" thread. He provided a link to some sine waves that match Alpine's G-EQ bands. I then took each wave and the above info and started tuning. It worked out pretty well for me. 

For those who are interested, I compressed about 30 sine waves into one file so that you can use your Alpine G-EQ to tune with if you have one. here's the link to the .rar'd file:
http://rapidshare.com/files/94343821/Alpine_Test_Tones.rar.html


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## drake78

thanks


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## syd-monster

Just a quick Q? Does this apply to a car that is great for one seat or two? Assuming its a normal car/seating configuration. (ie two people sit at the front abreast)


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## Mr Marv

syd-monster said:


> Just a quick Q? Does this apply to a car that is great for one seat or two? Assuming its a normal car/seating configuration. (ie two people sit at the front abreast)


 That's a good question! I have never been fortunate enough to have suitable PL's/PLD's in order to try a 2 seater so maybe Chuck or one of the others who have experience with this can chime in.


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## vmaxnc

Very cool ideas, I look forward to trying them out.


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## mmiller

This is a great thread!!!


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## cheesehead

Great info here! Maybe sticky worthy?


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## peter_bigblock

Absolutely should be a sticky. Great info for a noob (such as myself).


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## Oliver

Tune-up time !


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## UNDERGROUND_BUM

nice........... 


im wondering if there is a tutorial for a passive 2-way system ? or how i would go about this with a 2-way (morel tempo 6's) passive system im kind of a newb when it comes to tuning : (


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## capnxtreme

The tutorial would be no different for a 2-way. There's just one less set of speakers to worry about, and you can skip a step. If you're a newb and don't understand the tutorial, reread it until you do. Don't get discouraged; just think about it until you understand. It's really not that complicated, for a 2-way especially.


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## Jachin99

If your deck has time delay, how would you tune it. Would you zero all of your delay settings on your deck and then use this method, using the delay to make final critiques or would you just set all of your drivers in phase and use the delay function on your deck by itself


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## tintbox

Great Info. Thank you.


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## BZinn1

I just printed this off and burned the tones listed and I am amazed at how much better it sounds already......wish I had a better eq on the deck.But after about an hour of working with it I now understand better how the sounds on the ex work together a little better....thanks


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## Lars Ulriched

Im using DRZ9255 which all has polarity on it x-over module...that can be switch into normal or reverse....do I still need to the the polarity on the amp +ve and -ve? Will doing the phase on the HU can be consider the same as doing it on the amp?


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## tinctorus

Great info


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## mark1478

maybe a sticky?


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## Ram4ever

The rapidshare link to Bikinpunk's digitized sine waves is broken. Would any one still have this file available? It sounds useful - a lot simpler than dragging out my various generators, RTA's and an oscilloscope when I'm not worried about crazy precision.


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## asawendo

Great information for tweaking and fine tuning in Car Audio. Thank you very much.

Best Regards

Wendo


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## EternalGraphics808

What about time alignment and phase changes at different frequencies?


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## phins2rt

Great writeup. Thanks.


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## Blister64

Thanks for the great post! I'll be doing that soon.


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## SPLaddict

Nice write up...


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## gt6334a

excellent information! thanks!


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL

Back from the dead.

Quick question, does this method apply to two seat apps as well? Just curious, since you'd probably be doing everything from the drivers seat, how do you make it sound good on both seats?


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## roseda91

GREAT INFO!!!


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## jcollin76

elenalee said:


> i like tunes and music
> ==========


6 posts in the span of what... Ten min? All of them 'i like this', 'thanks', etc... Looks like your going right down the line....

You could try getting involved in some threads and giving useful and constructive posts to get your 50 in....


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## BowDown

Anyone have a better download link for the test tones?


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## Notloudenuf

BowDown said:


> Anyone have a better download link for the test tones?


Top of this page 'Car Audio Test Tones'

AmpGuts.com - Test Tones

You can make your own in Audacity also.


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## veritasz34

WOW a blast from the past..I have known chuck for years. He always had a great sounding car..We used to go to just about every show we could find back in the day.. One thing about chuck, he was tested at a beltone clinic and they said only .5% of the population hear what he does..great ear and a great guy..but my ear isn't too far behind his...


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## jester

Great info. I have forgot to do some of the steps


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## mrbukol

I appreciate that. thank man for sharing ideas


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## redbaronace

tagged for a future afternoon tuning session.


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## antikryst

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> Back from the dead.
> 
> Quick question, does this method apply to two seat apps as well? Just curious, since you'd probably be doing everything from the drivers seat, how do you make it sound good on both seats?


same question from me as well. if reversing polarity of a woofer for example would have it acoustically in phase with the other woofer from the drivers seat... would this mess it up for the passenger seat?

another (maybe really dumb question)... can you keep playing music while taking out say a woofer or a tweeter from the passive crossover without harming the system? say have just tweets play... then reverse polarity of 1 tweet would have just 1 tweeter total connected to the entire system. is it safe? just wan a make sure.


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## adrenalinejunkie

Great info, i'll be using this soon. Thank you! (up we go again)


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## slowsedan01

Mr Marv said:


> This is an excerpt from a tuning thread I started on ECA a while back posted courtesy of Chuck Music aka "cmusic" here on the forum  Some of you have probably seen this before as I have seen the link posted (and posted it myself) in many threads so I figured I'd just post the whole thing here for all to see and try.
> 
> Chuck wanted me to remind everyone that he wrote these tips for someone using a 3-way system with an active crossover between the sub and mids and a passive crossover on the mids and tweeters however the tips can be applied to a completely active 2, 3, or 4-way system. The great thing with these tips is ANYONE can do them without any "special" gear other than a test disc, music you like and most importantly your ears .
> 
> I have used these tips (along with a few other tips I've learned from the "gurus" ) with great success over the years. If you follow the sequence just as it is laid out you may be pleasantly surprised at how great it will sound after you just get the acoustic polarity, levels, crossovers and phase between driver pairs set.
> 
> Also wanted to mention that Chuck hangs around here sometimes so if you have any questions I'm sure he wouldn't mind answering.  Thanks Chuck and here we go!


I'm glad I found this thread. I will be installing speakers soon and this has been great, thanks for posting this. I do have a question, would the procedure be the same for a three way passive system? I don't see how it would be different, but I wanted to check. Also, going back to the steps that were listed, I don't understand the point of going through 3-5 if you are basically doing the same thing in steps 7-9, could someone please 'splain that to me?


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## fcarpio

#14 is doing a number on me, I have to try that step.


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## pereze

Mr Marv said:


> 13. In tuning you will find some eq bands will raise, lower, move the sound closer, or farther away if adjusted in certain manners. For example, lowering 5 KHz will generally move the soundstage farther away and raising 2 KHz will make the soundstage rise. Each vehicle and system will have different settings that will be the best. The best way to achieve awesome sound is to constantly adjust.


I know this is a fairly old thread but I have been looking for tuning information. I am new to this level of car audio, so I wasn't sure if there were other key things to consider when tuning the EQ or to look/hear for? Maybe even a book?

Also, I saw a bunch of people ask about time alignment but didn't see an answer. Any ideas on when to implement time alignment in this process?

Thanks!


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## dtm337

i think setting up t/a would be the last you do in this tuning process , i think of it as more of a band aid then a tuning step ,


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## fcarpio

Besides installation, time alignment can give you the most dramatic results. See my signature and the results people got from time alignment.


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## Bnixon

I'll have to try this once I get my car back together


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## sqchris

Love the internet, back in the day this is a well kept secret. Thanks!


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## optimaprime

this will come in very handy when tuning my 2 way active thank you very much!!!


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## killerb87

nice...


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## Earzbleed

Thanks for reviving this thread Optimaprime. I would have missed it otherwise and it's just what I was looking for.


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## dannyboy100

Ok so I've been meaning to try this but I had one doubt and kept putting off. Maybe this is a stupid question but I'm willing to take the chance!

I currently have 4 inch comps with the supplied crossovers. No problem I can just reverse the phase at the crossover for the mids and the tweets.

I also have 8 inch midbasses under the seats and I use the electronic crossover in my DQX. The dqx doesnt have a phase inverter. So where can I change the polarity of the midbass? Does it matter if I change it at the amp because I don't want to remove my seats.

I know its a dumb question I'm guessing it wouldnt make a difference if its at the amp or at the woofer. I didnt know if the electronic crossover would mess me up somehow.

Thanks


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## Notloudenuf

dannyboy100 said:


> Ok so I've been meaning to try this but I had one doubt and kept putting off. Maybe this is a stupid question but I'm willing to take the chance!
> 
> I currently have 4 inch comps with the supplied crossovers. No problem I can just reverse the phase at the crossover for the mids and the tweets.
> 
> I also have 8 inch midbasses under the seats and I use the electronic crossover in my DQX. The dqx doesnt have a phase inverter. So where can I change the polarity of the midbass? Does it matter if I change it at the amp because I don't want to remove my seats.
> 
> I know its a dumb question I'm guessing it wouldnt make a difference if its at the amp or at the woofer. I didnt know if the electronic crossover would mess me up somehow.
> 
> Thanks


Switch at the amp if that's easiest to reach. It won't make any difference.


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## dannyboy100

Notloudenuf said:


> Switch at the amp if that's easiest to reach. It won't make any difference.


Yeah thats what I thought. Can't wait to give this a shot this afternoon.

Thanks for the quick reply.


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## dannyboy100

Just to update. I was able to go through all the steps, although I'm still fine tuning for tonality.

And I have to say I'm really happy with the results.

I'm really happy I came across this thread. Thanks for posting!


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## killerb87

I just got finished this procedure and all I can say is wow!! Eq is still flat and it never sounded better!! I am in the car now and I can't stop listening. I did perform time alignment prior to this. Thanks.


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## subterFUSE

Forgive me for resurrecting an older thread, but there is a lot of great info in here and I had a question about tuning with this method and how time alignment would affect things.

I assume that time alignment would affect the acoustic phase for individual speakers, correct? If so, when in this procedure would it be best to set the time alignment?


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## kaigoss69

I also want to apologize in advance for bumping an old thread. I was looking for a way to adjust phase prior to MS-8 calibration to give the processor an "easier" task. I have to say I tried using this method and was not able to hear any difference when only the tweeters, mids and woofers were playing, whether the polarity of one of the drivers was reversed or not. Sine the midbass drivers are under the seats, and only play to 120Hz anyway, there really was no "image" to make out at all. The tweeters and mids both had the female singer playing exactly at the respective driver side speaker, no matter what the polarity. Not sure why but I tried several times. Any ideas?


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## 2DEEP2

I've tuned several vehicles and have only ran into what you described once.
The vehicle had speaker wiring issues, several speaker wire splices and solder joints with both active and passive crossovers.

I cleaned up the wiring, removed all splices, confirmed polarity and confirmed solder joint integrity at the passive crossovers.

Once that was done the vehicle would focus.

Nevertheless, it's my understanding that the MS8 wants the enter system to be wired in polarity.

I would run an in phase/out of phase track and note if the focus is the same in phase as out of phase. If so, given you can't change the focus by changing polarity, I would verify the system is wired properly.


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## kaigoss69

Thanks for your answer. I am fairly certain my wiring is sound. I should say that I confirmed polarities are correct with the JL audio app on the iPhone. Ran the MS-8 calibration and it sounded terrible. I flipped Polarity on the left side tweeter and midbass, recalibrated and the results are very satisfactory. However I am concerned that something is still off, because I could not get this method to work. 

You kind of lost me in the last paragraph, but I will try to find such a track and report back. Any idea where I can find a track like this on the Internet?



2DEEP2 said:


> I've tuned several vehicles and have only ran into what you described once.
> The vehicle had speaker wiring issues, several speaker wire splices and solder joints with both active and passive crossovers.
> 
> I cleaned up the wiring, removed all splices, confirmed polarity and confirmed solder joint integrity at the passive crossovers.
> 
> Once that was done the vehicle would focus.
> 
> Nevertheless, it's my understanding that the MS8 wants the enter system to be wired in polarity.
> 
> I would run an in phase/out of phase track and note if the focus is the same in phase as out of phase. If so, given you can't change the focus by changing polarity, I would verify the system is wired properly.


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## subterFUSE

I have tried using a polarity checker and phase pulse test track before, and I have to admit that the results were not exactly so easy to determine. Getting the pulses to actually register consistently in the correct direction was difficult. Sometimes I would get a couple of cycles of + + + - to show correctly, but then it would start to read differently and make me question it.

Ultimately, I just gave up and used a 9 volt battery on my subs and midbass to visually confirm the direction of the speaker cone movement. Then I connected the 9 volt battery to the speaker wire and used a multimeter to confirm positive and negative leads in the cable run.

I have had mixed success using REW and impulse response measurements to determine phase angle. I say mixed because I had one day where everything measured well and I got good results for phase. But most of the time it's very hard to get clean phase measurements inside a car. There are so many reflections that it usually muddies up the readings.


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## 2DEEP2

kaigoss69 said:


> Thanks for your answer. I am fairly certain my wiring is sound.


 Please don't be offended, but the guy with the splices and poor solder joints told me "my wiring is sound". :-D 

After I spent hours uninstalling his wiring and tracing it from head unit to speaker, several issues...

I'm not saying yours is the same.



kaigoss69 said:


> I should say that I confirmed polarities are correct with the JL audio app on the iPhone. Ran the MS-8 calibration and it sounded terrible. I flipped Polarity on the left side tweeter and midbass, recalibrated and the results are very satisfactory.


That's not how I read your original post.


kaigoss69 said:


> I have to say I tried using this method and was not able to hear any difference when only the tweeters, mids and woofers were playing, whether the polarity of one of the drivers was reversed or not.


 If you retuned with the MS8, you should not hear any different between a system wired in absolute phase and one that is not. Although some guys that are better tuners than I would say absolute phase is how a vehicle should be wired with DSP TA/phase correction. 



kaigoss69 said:


> However I am concerned that something is still off, because I could not get this method to work.
> 
> You kind of lost me in the last paragraph, but I will try to find such a track and report back. Any idea where I can find a track like this on the Internet?


subterFuse is correct, you could have physical boundary issues (early reflections) in your car still creating phase issues.

Recordings I like to use for in phase/out of phase are IASCA Setup CD, Autosound 2000 CDs, Chesky Setup CD or XLO Reference Recordings CD.

You may be able to purchase Chesky or XLO as an online down load.
You will have to do a search to find any of the IASCA or Autosound 2000 CD's.

XLO, which is intended for home systems, has several phase tracks and states to make your system sound as out of phase as possible by moving your speakers while playing the out of phase track. The more out of phase you get the system while playing an out of phase track, the more focus you will have when playing an in phase track.

In that we can't just move speakers in a car, you have to change the boundaries and/or your listening position.


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## kaigoss69

What I posted originally were the results without the MS-8 tune (processing turned off). Then when I did the auto-tune, it sounded horrible. Then I flipped polarities of driver side tweeter and mid-bass, retuned the MS-8, and it sounded great. Make sense?

Tonight I played pink (or white) noise from the Focal CD #2, track 3, which goes back and forth between in and out of phase. In phase sounds centered. Out of phase sounds scattered. So I guess that is a good sign. Then I turned MS-8 processing off and both in and out of phase white noise was playing near the sail panel on the driver side. I actually detected a little more of a "fullness" with the out of phase noise, and it was maybe an inch further to the right than the in phase noise, which was a little less full. Not sure how else to describe it. The differences were very small.


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## optimaprime

I know I know old thread but such good **** right here. It's like my bible for audio.


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## Timelessr1

Great starting point


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## Phil Indeblanc

I'm about to use this now with my 3SIXTY.3, but all this polarity is a bit confusing...I'm getting the impression people want to take the speakers out of normal polarity???or?

Doesn't everyone install and test with a battery to check before wiring?

OK, outside I go, and maybe reading it a few times will set me straight.


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## Phil Indeblanc

Ok, spent some time with this. I didn't
Do any polarity changes like this suggests, but I did do most other steps.

I wasn't sure what he means by "centered sounds". I guess I had a hard time, but he was on the vocals, so I did that.

Also, I don't think all this polarity play necessary, I thought you can check if the right wires are used with battery, speakers move out, and that's it. How is switching them play into this tuning procedure?Although I do rem something like this 20 years ago

Regardless, my system is sounding much much better, and now I know I can tune more out of it, which at one point I was skeptical of any improvements.


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## JayinMI

I was just reviewing this before I go try to tune a friend's car, and saw your post, Phil.

Most people wire their speakers in mechanical phase (+ to + and - to -) during initial installation.

However, because of various factors (location, reflections, etc.) this may not be in acoustic phase. You may find that by switching one side or the other out of phase from it's counterpart might get the speakers closer to acoustic phase. 

In my car, when I played with phasing on my processor, it didn't seem to help...sometimes, I'd go from well focused, but to the left to (after switching one side) to centered, but diffused. 

I know it's an old thread, but figured this might help someone who comes across it.

Jay


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## cmusic

Wow!! Something I wrote about 10 years ago is still going!


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## Phil Indeblanc

Solid advise that works the basics is usually timeless. Well done!


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## jhue73

i dont understand why you would want a speaker out of phase. you dont do this in home audio or pro audio, but most pro audio is mono. it changes inductance and causes cancellations especially lower frequencies. you will loose bass, mid bass and some lower mid range. and if it sounds decent in the drivers seat with it out of phase then it will have a weird out of phase sound at the center and passengers seat.

to me it is better just to use delay if your trying to get your image centered.


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## subterFUSE

jhue73 said:


> i dont understand why you would want a speaker out of phase. you dont do this in home audio or pro audio, but most pro audio is mono. it changes inductance and causes cancellations especially lower frequencies. you will loose bass, mid bass and some lower mid range. and if it sounds decent in the drivers seat with it out of phase then it will have a weird out of phase sound at the center and passengers seat.
> 
> 
> 
> to me it is better just to use delay if your trying to get your image centered.




Correcting phase on a subwoofer using delay is also not ideal because it will cause impulse smearing over time. That's why pro audio DSPs have all pass filters to correct phase without having to invert polarity or use delay.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jhue73

subterFUSE said:


> Correcting phase on a subwoofer using delay is also not ideal because it will cause impulse smearing over time. That's why pro audio DSPs have all pass filters to correct phase without having to invert polarity or use delay.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


the pro audio company i use to work for didnt use a dsp. they used separate analog crossover and eq, for good reason. you dont need a delay in pro audio because of the distance the audience is from the main and subs. we only used a delay for balcony speakers or longer buildings with back speakers.

i dont like using delay on home subs ether. i like my sub or subs upfront close to the mains.


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## JDZ

Mr Marv said:


> This is an excerpt from a tuning thread I started on ECA a while back posted courtesy of Chuck Music aka "cmusic" here on the forum  Some of you have probably seen this before as I have seen the link posted (and posted it myself) in many threads so I figured I'd just post the whole thing here for all to see and try.
> 
> Chuck wanted me to remind everyone that he wrote these tips for someone using a 3-way system with an active crossover between the sub and mids and a passive crossover on the mids and tweeters however the tips can be applied to a completely active 2, 3, or 4-way system. The great thing with these tips is ANYONE can do them without any "special" gear other than a test disc, music you like and most importantly your ears .
> 
> I have used these tips (along with a few other tips I've learned from the "gurus" ) with great success over the years. If you follow the sequence just as it is laid out you may be pleasantly surprised at how great it will sound after you just get the acoustic polarity, levels, crossovers and phase between driver pairs set.
> 
> Also wanted to mention that Chuck hangs around here sometimes so if you have any questions I'm sure he wouldn't mind answering.  Thanks Chuck and here we go!


Thanks


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## Lou Frasier2

post count bump


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