# Taming a tweeter?



## SpiderX1016 (Apr 11, 2011)

So I installed a Massive Audio RK6 component set over the weekend and I read all about the harsh tweeters but I thought I could handle it. Boy was I wrong. These give me headaches.

What are my options to quiet down the tweeters?

I've heard of putting resistors in series to the tweeters. 

My setup is Stock Acura deck > Stock Amp > Navone LOC > MB Quart ONX4.80.


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

you can try an l-pad, or if you have them on thier own channel turning the gain down. but honestly, if they sound like crap, then turning them down will only making it quieter crap.


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## XtremeRevolution (Dec 3, 2010)

Funny, I've had my set for a while and also just installed the left side this weekend. The tweeter sounds too hot on mine as well. I'm waiting for the midrange to break in a bit before I go about modifying anything, as I've heard the sound changes quite a bit after a few hours of playing. A simple resistor in parallel should pad the tweeter enough. You can experiment with values from .5 ohms to 10 ohms. 

Just order a bunch of different values of these and see which one ends up sounding best run in parallel.


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

cajunner said:


> break them in, then change the cheap parts in their crossover to expensive ones.
> 
> then sell them for less than regular used price because of your "modifications" and buy another brand's offerings.
> 
> repeat as needed.


ROFL

I am of the school of thought that if they dont sound "good" to start with, they are never gonna get past "good". if they sound really bad, they might make it to good with some breaking in.


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## XtremeRevolution (Dec 3, 2010)

minbari said:


> ROFL
> 
> I am of the school of thought that if they dont sound "good" to start with, they are never gonna get past "good". if they sound really bad, they might make it to good with some breaking in.


Honestly, that's a terrible school of thought. The crossover is *everything* with component sets and speakers in general. Last I heard, Mass Audio is shipping a revised crossover with their newer RK6 component sets that is supposed to prevent the tweeter from sounding as hot. Once the speaker measurement rig I ordered arrives, I intend to measure each of these individually and see how they model in JBagby's crossover designer. I suspect I can make them sound extremely good with a redesigned crossover of my own. 



cajunner said:


> break them in, then change the cheap parts in their crossover to expensive ones.
> 
> then sell them for less than regular used price because of your "modifications" and buy another brand's offerings.
> 
> repeat as needed.


There's not a whole lot to replace. The iron core inductors won't be saturating at these power levels and the NPE cap will function perfectly well for midrange duty. Its only for the tweeter that you'd need something better like a polypropylene. Having listened to one of these on my way to work today, I can honestly say the tweeter needs more padding. There's no doubt about that.


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

but when you buy a comp set you expect the crossover to work. if they give you crap crossover (and in turn make the speakers sound like crap) I am not spending more money and time to fix what the manufacturer should have done right in the first place. I will buy a set that sounds good in the first place. so I will stick with my school of thought, I think it is perfectly valid.


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## XtremeRevolution (Dec 3, 2010)

minbari said:


> but when you buy a comp set you expect the crossover to work. if they give you crap crossover (and in turn make the speakers sound like crap) I am not spending more money and time to fix what the manufacturer should have done right in the first place. I will buy a set that sounds good in the first place. so I will stick with my school of thought, I think it is perfectly valid.


No, its not valid, because the RK6 component set was new to the market when you bought that crossover/midbass/tweeter combo and I don't think they realized it would be as big of a deal. Some people run the tweeters in the kicks right next to the components off-axis and they sound great that way, but when you use their pods and place them 2 feet from your head on-axis when the drivers are 4 feet away off axis the way I have them set up, it can cause problems, especially if they were a tad bit too bright to begin with, and the midrange and midbass isn't broken in yet. I just called them about 15 minutes ago and I'm waiting for a call back so I can ask them what in the world they did wrong and how it can be remedied.

Sure, you should have a component set that works, but that's beside the point. The point now is that it doesn't work like you wanted it to, and instead of selling them at a loss and buying another brand new set, you'll be much better off making a few small modifications (seriously, $5-10 for a few resistors to test with is too much?) to make adjustments that would make them sound better to you. Or, you could wait for me to do it and report back so you only have to spend a couple of bucks.

The midrange will pick up after its broken in as it was probably pretty muddy when you first started using them. Your school of thought is that its the driver's fault because if they don't sound good now, they never will. My school of thought is that I can make a $.69 driver sound freaking amazing (Sony 5-1/4" Treated Paper Cone Square Frame Neodymium Woofer) with an excellent crossover:










And I can also make a $100 driver sound like complete crap with a very poorly designed crossover. If you haven't yet figured it out, I design crossovers and speakers on the side. I have a pretty good idea of how we can make these sound better.


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

I have the means and knowledge to pull off changing some parts and improving stuff. been doing this for 20 years and been a EE for 15 years. but that is not the point. some people dont have those skills.

when I walk up and plunk down money for something, I expect it to be right or it is going back. 

If you bought a car and the valves kept ticking and the dealer said "ya, all you have to do is get a small peice of metal and raise the valves a little. its only $2 at lowes" you mean to tell me you would just shrug it off and go to lowes?


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## XtremeRevolution (Dec 3, 2010)

minbari said:


> I have the means and knowledge to pull off changing some parts and improving stuff. been doing this for 20 years and been a EE for 15 years. but that is not the point. some people dont have those skills.
> 
> when I walk up and plunk down money for something, I expect it to be right or it is going back.
> 
> If you bought a car and the valves kept ticking and the dealer said "ya, all you have to do is get a small peice of metal and raise the valves a little. its only $2 at lowes" you mean to tell me you would just shrug it off and go to lowes?


I'm not denying the fact that it should work and the fact that it doesn't work quite as planned. I'm only stating that this is a crossover design flaw and that wiring up a resistor in parallel is a very easy way to solve this problem. You could probably just hook up the resistor leads directly to the terminals, not requiring any tools or cutting of wires or soldering.


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

lol, alright. at least we agree on that point


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## XtremeRevolution (Dec 3, 2010)

minbari said:


> lol, alright. at least we agree on that point


Well I wouldn't be trying to fix something that isn't broken, lol. I would EQ the top end, and when I get some testing done, I can let you know what values work well for padding the resistor.


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

> *Taming a tweeter?*



A VERY small whip.... pretty simple.... kee YA....


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## XtremeRevolution (Dec 3, 2010)

I spoke with the engineer from Massive Audio today. He recommended using a resistor to pad the tweeter. The reason for this is that the component set was specifically designed to be run off-axis. I'm really not sure why someone would prefer to run the tweeters off-axis, but that's how they designed it. A better crossover can indeed be designed for this, but they didn't go too far with it in order to reduce costs. I plan to RTA these speakers in my car and design my own passive crossover, which will likely be in the range of $40-60 for parts alone.

That being said, for everyone else, the guy recommended that you pad the tweeter with a resistor, or that you run one or both of the tweeters with reversed polarity to experiment.

I personally think the second option is a very bad idea as it affects the frequency response near the crossover frequency and creates a dip instead of providing the same summed output, but I didn't care to argue with the guy about it.

So if you think your tweeter is too hot, run it in your kick panels like it was designed to be run. If you want to run it on axis, you'll need to run a resistor in parallel with the tweeter to attenuate the output. 

Or, you can wait for me to design a perfect RTA measured crossover and buy it from me.


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## jowens500 (Sep 5, 2008)

Or you can throw the POS passives in the trash and run them active.........


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## XtremeRevolution (Dec 3, 2010)

jowens500 said:


> Or you can throw the POS passives in the trash and run them active.........


Oh sure, be right back while I buy a new 4 channel amp and a DSP to run it all. You gonna pay for it?

Active is great, but not everyone can afford it. A $1.25 resistor sure as hell beats a new amp and a DSP. Hell, even a completely redesigned crossover wouldn't cost more than $60, and that's a worst case scenario.


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Oh sure, be right back while I buy a new 4 channel amp and a DSP to run it all. You gonna pay for it?
> 
> Active is great, but not everyone can afford it. A $1.25 resistor sure as hell beats a new amp and a DSP. Hell, even a completely redesigned crossover wouldn't cost more than $60, and that's a worst case scenario.


since when does one need a "DSP" to run "active"....???

Oh, I forgot, this is the "MS8 age".... Everything needs a DSP.... my effin toothbrush has a DSP in it to get the tooth cleaning frequencies right....


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## XtremeRevolution (Dec 3, 2010)

jowens500 said:


> Or you can throw the POS passives in the trash and run them active.........





Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> since when does one need a "DSP" to run "active"....???
> 
> Oh, I forgot, this is the "MS8 age".... Everything needs a DSP.... my effin toothbrush has a DSP in it to get the tooth cleaning frequencies right....


I referred to DSP as a digital signal processor. Exactly how else are you going to configure the crossover points, slopes, and filters? On the same note, exactly how much is that unit going to cost you? You expect to just plug them straight into the amp and run the amp's crossovers? Now, I had a very valid point, and you could have thought about it a little more than 2 seconds and could have replied without a ******* response, but its clear to me you're just here to make an ass out of yourself, as you haven't yet contributed anything of value and done nothing but troll this thread.


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

XtremeRevolution said:


> I referred to DSP as a digital signal processor. Exactly how else are you going to configure the crossover points, slopes, and filters? On the same note, exactly how much is that unit going to cost you? You expect to just plug them straight into the amp and run the amp's crossovers? Now, I had a very valid point, and you could have thought about it a little more than 2 seconds without coming up with a ******* response. Real mature.


we had eqs and crossovers with varible slopes and freq before DSPs


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## XtremeRevolution (Dec 3, 2010)

minbari said:


> we had eqs and crossovers with varible slopes and freq before DSPs


How much did those cost?

Despite the method, I've been trying to make a point that a few people have completely disregarded. 

If you have an EQ with a crossover and variable slopes (whether its digital or analog, I don't care, its an extra component that has to be bought), by all means use it, but my understanding is that if you had one, you would be using it instead of posting this thread, and to buy one and set it up along with a 4 channel amp would be a tad bit more expensive than a $1.25 resistor.


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

back in the day, I think the audio control EQX was about $350 but it did it all and you could change it and it didnt cost $60 more


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

XtremeRevolution said:


> How much did those cost?
> 
> Despite the method, I've been trying to make a point that a few people have completely disregarded.
> 
> If you have an EQ with a crossover and variable slopes (whether its digital or analog, I don't care, its an extra component that has to be bought), by all means use it, but my understanding is that if you had one, you would be using it instead of posting this thread, and to buy one and set it up along with a 4 channel amp would be a tad bit more expensive than a $1.25 resistor.



A lot of 4ch amps have frequency multipliers (or HAD) to easily be able to set a pair of channels for tweeter duity.. 

you don't get EQ, you don't get variable slopes, you don't get a lot of things, but you get a hell of a lot more than a 1.25$ resistor... 

Don't forget your roots....


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

Would I be wrong in saying you consistently "over-tech" things... 

K.I.S.S. brotha... START there, make a simple system sound good.... then reach for the computerized crutch.... 

Graphs and gizmos AREN'T your ears...

MS8s aren't either...


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## underdog (Jul 5, 2011)

I must be getting real old?
Way back before CD's even if you got a hot speaker you would throw a towel over it.
We would then make minor adjustments by folding the towel


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## XtremeRevolution (Dec 3, 2010)

Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> A lot of 4ch amps have frequency multipliers (or HAD) to easily be able to set a pair of channels for tweeter duity..
> 
> you don't get EQ, you don't get variable slopes, you don't get a lot of things, but you get a hell of a lot more than a 1.25$ resistor...
> 
> Don't forget your roots....


Yes, but the $1.25 resistor is there to make one small adjustment; the output of the tweeter. Past that, you already have a crossover that takes care of the slope, impedance, and phase. I would hardly imagine that a 4 channel amp like you're referring to would allow these to sound any better. 

I'll share my experiences since I used one of these on the driver's side all day. 

I listened for 40 minutes on my way to work. Midrange was very muddy, and the tweeter was shrill. It was piercing at higher volumes and barely tolerable at moderate volumes. I had it screwed with one screw in the pod it came in till I finished treating my door. I needed to have something temporarily. I ended up pointing the tweeter straight down and completely off axis because it was too loud. 

I have a Clarion EQ and had the values below the default point to make it sound decent. 

On my way home, I discovered I had my higher end bosted on the head unit about 2 notches, so I toned that down, and listened for about half an hour on my way home. By the time I got home, the tweeter sounded much cleaner, and the mids sounded much cleaner as well. I am 100% sure that a parallel resistor on the tweeter would make this an excellent sounding component set.


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Yes, but the $1.25 resistor is there to make one small adjustment; the output of the tweeter. Past that, you already have a crossover that takes care of the slope, impedance, and phase. I would hardly imagine that a 4 channel amp like you're referring to would allow these to sound any better.


One small adjustment? 

To what extent? 

You like to post graphs and things... What does your adding to the circuit DO to the circuit? 

I mean, really man, I'm not trying to bash on you here, I really want to know how things change when you add to a circuit that was designed and "tuned" around the "specifics" of a driver or system? 

If it was simply a mid, adding an Lpad to the circuit can add resistance and deaden the output of a driver, but what about a crossover network designed around specific values??? 

YOU, have experimented and had the ability TO experiment with things, the "layman" may not have access to I would assume, so for you it may be far easier to crack a crossover and add a specific something to change something.... but to others... voodoo... 

That's all... please understand, I get what you are saying, but a simple 4ch amp would allow simple level control, without maybe killing the crossover/slope/shape

Simply a counterpoint to your point Sir..


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## XtremeRevolution (Dec 3, 2010)

Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> One small adjustment?
> 
> To what extent?
> 
> ...


Hey man, all you have to do is ask and I'd be more than happy to explain it to you. I understand that not everyone designs crossovers here, so I'll break it down a bit. 

Adding two resistors as an L pad effectively increases the impedance of a loudspeaker. All things kept constant, at a given wattage input, a lower impedance driver will be louder than the higher impedance driver. Adding a resistor to the tweeter attenuates the sound. This however doesn't affect the crossover point; only the output. 

Now, Massive Audio was kind enough to provide a diagram layout of the crossover and its values, and you can easily trace the PCB behind the crossover to determine how everything is run. The tweeter and driver both use a 2nd order crossover. The tweeter uses a 10ohm series resistor as well as a light bulb fuse to protect it. Adding a parallel resistor here effectively makes it an L-pad, whereas it was only a series resistor before that. 

Modeling this in other crossovers I'm working on, adding a resistor in parallel not only attenuates the sound further, but also seems to flatten the frequency response. A series resistor alone doesn't do enough to keep the frequency response linear. This parallel resistor can be added externally. 

Since there's already a series resistor in place, I would start with a 40 ohm resistor and see how that sound. If that's not enough attenuation, try a 30ohm and a 20ohm. If that doesn't do it, then you can go down to a 15 ohm or 10 ohm. 

Since I have a lot of these parts on-hand, I will be experimenting with them and will let you guys know which one provides the best results. 

As an upgrade to the current crossover, I would recommend replacing the tweeter's capacitor to a polypropylene capacitor, as the electrolytics aren't very well suitable. 

I'm sure that with enough people interested in this, a writeup is in order.

Once I get my RTA setup and measure in-cab response for the tweeter and the driver, I'll model the factory crossover to see what can be improved.


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

Thank you... and not so much I don't understand, but others that you tell to do these things.. 

Just some "why" to go with your "should"... 

cheers..


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## XtremeRevolution (Dec 3, 2010)

Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> Thank you... and not so much I don't understand, but others that you tell to do these things..
> 
> Just some "why" to go with your "should"...
> 
> cheers..


Couldn't you have done the same thing if you were concerned that others weren't understanding the concepts? 

In either case, I have the tweeter EQ'd down for the time being and it sounds quite nice. I didn't get a chance to play with resistors yesterday, but I should be able to get to it some time this week. If you can't wait for me, go to radio shack or somewhere and get a 5, 10, and 20 ohm resistor.


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

cajunner said:


> break them in, then change the cheap parts in their crossover to expensive ones.
> 
> then sell them for less than regular used price because of your "modifications" and buy another brand's offerings.
> 
> repeat as needed.


Wow....great idea.....:rifle:


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## wickedpsi (Oct 26, 2008)

does adding a resistor in parallel to the tweeter change the crossover point?


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

wickedpsi said:


> does adding a resistor in parallel to the tweeter change the crossover point?


anything put in the circuit AFTER the crossover will effect it. impedance is a factor in freq cutoff, so yes it would.


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## XtremeRevolution (Dec 3, 2010)

wickedpsi said:


> does adding a resistor in parallel to the tweeter change the crossover point?





minbari said:


> anything put in the circuit AFTER the crossover will effect it. impedance is a factor in freq cutoff, so yes it would.


That's incorrect. An L pad does nothing but attenuate the output. It does not change the crossover point or the slope. It may change the point at which it meets with the woofer, but the tweeter itself will maintain the same frequency response, with a lowered output throughout the frequency range. 

Capacitors and inductors are naturally a different story. Having modeled this specific crossover in JBagby's PCD, I can verify that this is indeed the case. 

I haven't been modeling and designing crossovers for too long, but from how long I have been doing it (~30 hours now), I can certainly say that an L-pad will not change the crossover point.

Of course, this does depend somewhat on what your definition of "crossover point" is. I refer to a tweeter's crossover frequency and a woofer's crossover frequency independently.


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

yes, but a resistor in parallel is not an l-pad.


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## XtremeRevolution (Dec 3, 2010)

minbari said:


> yes, but a resistor in parallel is not an l-pad.


Alone, its not, but when you consider there's already one series resistor in the crossover and there is no parallel resistor, adding the parallel resistor to the series resistor creates the aforementioned L-pad. This is application specific and may not apply to all crossovers.


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

he asked a simple question, I gave him the simplest answer. not all passives have series resistors in them. in fact alot of them dont. even if they do, there is no guarantee that the series resistor will be the correct value (or wattage) to make a proper l-pad.


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## XtremeRevolution (Dec 3, 2010)

minbari said:


> he asked a simple question, I gave him the simplest answer. not all passives have series resistors in them. in fact alot of them dont. even if they do, there is no guarantee that the series resistor will be the correct value (or wattage) to make a proper l-pad.


Wattage of a resistor has absolutely no affect on the crossover. The chosen wattage is there only for power handling purposes. When modeling or designing crossovers, we only factor in wattage when we have high powered drivers to work with. Its the impedance that matters. 

Not sure if you didn't catch this yet, but I've already modeled this in jbagby's PCD. A parallel resistor will effectively attenuate the output of the tweeter in the Massive Audio RK6 component set. 

All other crossovers would have to be looked into on a case by case basis. 

But regarding the answer you gave, I can model the effects of a parallel resistor if you'd like me to demonstrate that it does not in fact change the slope or cutoff frequency (rather the point at which the slope reaches its intended angle).


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

L-PADS

go ahead and change the wattage input and see what happens. my point is that if the series resistor on the passive set, which did not have l-pad duty in mind, doesnt have the correct wattage, you will burn it up. 

my other point is that if you dont have the correct series resistor value in the passive you will NOT maintain the same impedance. it may be close, but it wont be the same and the freq of the crossover will move.

you dont have to prove how an l-pad functions, I understand it fine, biult many of them.


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## XtremeRevolution (Dec 3, 2010)

minbari said:


> L-PADS
> 
> go ahead and change the wattage input and see what happens. my point is that if the series resistor on the passive set, which did not have l-pad duty in mind, doesnt have the correct wattage, you will burn it up.
> 
> ...


This is almost futile. I don't need to remind you that I've modeled this in a crossover designer and seen exactly what the changes will be. 

The wattage, again, is there only for power handling purposes. It will not burn up. I have used 10W resistors in nearly every crossover I've ever built (aside from one 20W on a high powered speaker, which was not even necessary). You will burn up the tweeter long before you burn up that resistor, I guarantee it. 

With regard to the changing impedance, the change will be inconsequential, and I will prove that point when I get home tonight and load up the passive crossover designer.


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

please do. if you break the formula, you will get a freq shift. even if it is small


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## XtremeRevolution (Dec 3, 2010)

minbari said:


> please do. if you break the formula, you will get a freq shift. even if it is small


Stay tuned.


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## FG79 (Jun 30, 2008)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Oh sure, be right back while I buy a new 4 channel amp and a DSP to run it all. You gonna pay for it?
> 
> Active is great, but not everyone can afford it. A $1.25 resistor sure as hell beats a new amp and a DSP. Hell, even a completely redesigned crossover wouldn't cost more than $60, and that's a worst case scenario.


I can get you a custom passive crossover made that will cost more than a good amp. 

But I would agree that a good passive is a good choice.


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Couldn't you have done the same thing if you were concerned that others weren't understanding the concepts?
> 
> In either case, I have the tweeter EQ'd down for the time being and it sounds quite nice. I didn't get a chance to play with resistors yesterday, but I should be able to get to it some time this week. If you can't wait for me, go to radio shack or somewhere and get a 5, 10, and 20 ohm resistor.



I've lost the vocabulary for it over the years.. .:blush:

It's been so long since it's been something I've actually DONE, I'd rather not try giving bad info... So I DO understand what you are doing, I just couldn't convey it the way you do so well.... It's semi-symbiotic..lol.. 

so it's also a refresher for me.. 

Thank you, sorry if it was a convoluted path here.. my methods aren't always the best executed...


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## maljr1980 (Aug 20, 2011)

umm your crossovers dont have attenuation on them? something where you can move jumpers around that say tweeters -6db, -4db, -2db, 0 or something along those lines?


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## splaudiohz (Apr 1, 2011)

I know I will catch some hell for this old school method, but I have put 8 ohm sandstone resistors online and ran an L-pad (already mentioned in a previous post) in the past. Some cases the L-pad was not needed. Now days I run amps with built in DSP.


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Stay tuned.


trying to stay tuned, but the channel is getting a little fuzzy 

did you have a chance to run those numbers?


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## XtremeRevolution (Dec 3, 2010)

minbari said:


> trying to stay tuned, but the channel is getting a little fuzzy
> 
> did you have a chance to run those numbers?


Nope. Had an order come in for 3 of my custom built TM mini speakers and I had to get started on those. I haven't forgotten though.


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## XtremeRevolution (Dec 3, 2010)

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum.../113054-new-crossovers-massive-audio-rk6.html


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## Mike_Dee (Mar 26, 2011)

Most xovers have 3 position tweeter levels. Put the next value resistor in line to your tweeter, until you have it tamed.


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## SpiderX1016 (Apr 11, 2011)

I bought a JBL MS8 a few days ago and plan to go Active.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys.


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## XtremeRevolution (Dec 3, 2010)

SpiderX1016 said:


> I bought a JBL MS8 a few days ago and plan to go Active.
> 
> Thanks for all the suggestions guys.


How much did that run you?


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## SpiderX1016 (Apr 11, 2011)

XtremeRevolution said:


> How much did that run you?


$425 Brand New from a member off here.


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## XtremeRevolution (Dec 3, 2010)

SpiderX1016 said:


> $425 Brand New from a member off here.


Thanks. I was only asking because I'm comparing the cost of that to the cost of a well designed 3 way crossover for this component set.


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## SpiderX1016 (Apr 11, 2011)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Thanks. I was only asking because I'm comparing the cost of that to the cost of a well designed 3 way crossover for this component set.


No problem. I've thought about getting your crossover if I wanted something quick and easy but I was looking to use this MS8 on several different installs.


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## SpiderX1016 (Apr 11, 2011)

I have the tweeters running off the MS8 and the mids are on the MB Quart ONX4.80.

Took care of the tweeters and I'm now happy with the RK6.


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## ousooner2 (Jan 6, 2011)

SpiderX1016 said:


> I have the tweeters running off the MS8 and the mids are on the MB Quart ONX4.80.
> 
> Took care of the tweeters and I'm now happy with the RK6.


Glad it's better for ya man. These RK6's are brutal to listen to without tuning or a different passive. What kind of crossovers have you found you like best??


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## Danometal (Nov 16, 2009)

Bump.

Xtreme, I just ordered a CK6 stage 5 set, which has 18db Xovers. It's going to be about a month or 2 before I can afford some sound dampener for my doors, so I'm spending time researching the implications of installing these before I start tearing the doors up. 

How exactly do you wire a resistor in parallel? Is it a splice in the tweeter wire, like:

Passive Xover tweeter + terminal >>> resistor (or length of wire then resistor) >>> tweeter? And, - tweeter wire is like normal all the way to the tweeter?

Does the 18 dbs configuration change anything? 

I was thinking of running my stock Saturn tweeters (they actually sound good) which already have a little cap on them off the HU, and only hook the Massive mids to their Xovers, but I'm curious about your cheap fix so as to not waste brand new tweeters.

All this Xover science is over my head.


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