# 89Targa Carrera



## FLYONWALL9

I'm moving this thread from another board for the lack
of civilized humans. Seems this would be a much better
place for me to be.

Its been over 8 years sense I have had a good system
in any of my vehicles. Now a disabled Vet I have more
than enough time to build a nice system. I think its been
12 years of so sense I did an install so much of the install
will take more time than most of you. 

The car is one of those dream car deals, found an old
lady that was selling, it belonged to her late husband.
It will also get an interior restoration along with the 
audio install. So, I will have to work around materials
waiting to be made or shipped. The system will be an
8chan with no rear fill.

THE CAR

















THE GEAR
front stage MBQuart RWC200's 8"/ DSD210's 4" component 
The 8's will go in the doors with the 4" component in the kicks









The amps that I'll use aren't yet decided. I have 
two A/D/S P450 BUT I don't know if I want to use
them in favor of some newer low current draw. The
head and processors are again oldschool Sony ES
P1,X1,T1. Subs are yet to be determined but will 
need to be slim in nature.

So, I'm looking forward to updates and input from
you guys/gals. If anyone has 1st hand knowledge
of some nice low current draw amps and slim subs
I'm open for suggestions.


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## FLYONWALL9

Over the past couple of days I've taken out the factory kicks
masked and fiberglassed a mold of the OEM part. I've made 
templates for the 4/tweet baffles and will cut those out tomorrow
and mock up placement on the fiberglass part. 

I'm trying to decide if I want to paint them to match the car or
cover them in carpet which is what the factory kicks are. Carpet
would make them far less noticeable and hide any imperfections
in my fairing. The door pods that I am going to make will be paint
matched to the car so perhape that would look best for the kicks?

*If anyone has suggestions for a high end 8 chan amp setup I'm open
to suggestions. Budget in the 2k range. I've thought about the 6chan
McIntosh with a 2chan sub amp, so something along those lines.*


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## tintbox

Subscribed. Cool car.


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## LegendJeff

Maybe a zapco DC650.6 and then a zap two channel?


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## AudioBob

A guy I work with has the same car, only in red. I love the sound of the boxer engine!!! Maybe you can get two JL HD amps to meet your needs for low power draw and high quality sound. Your cars electrical system will thank you. 

Nice MB Quart speakers as well and you should be very happy with their sound when you are done.

Good luck with your install.


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## t3sn4f2

JL HD's or maybe a couple of Zed's new offerings after they establish themselves. Or a couple Zuki Eleets if you can find them.


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## PGT FTW

I did a similar install with Quarts in a mint '78 Targa some years back. It was a time warp car....original owner never drove it and sold it to make room for a new one. Think it had 6k miles...this was about a decade a go. 

The new owner put a nice system in it (200/100/25mm Quart three-ways like yours), a nice Alpine CD and an Xtant 3ch. She planned on driving it every day (as all cool cars should be handled).


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## KARPE

sense=/=since.... sorry I'm a nazi

Badass car, I'd love to see more pics!!!


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## FLYONWALL9

Sense=/since your a nazi=ass YOU'LL
have to wait for more pics of the car! 
You will find that my spelling can be 
quite bad depending on time of day and
if I have taken my meds. Also, if I have
or haven't used spell check. Being disabled
does have an advantage or two.

Kidding aside, give me what you would like
to see on the car and I'll try and take you a 
few pics. I've now only had it about a month
the last owner spent a year doing an external
restoration. I'm left with doing the inside and
that is a work in progess as well as the audio
work. TO me it worked out perfect, I would hate
to rip into an aready restored no scratches car. 

Thanks everyone for the warm welcome and compliments.
I will try and update as often as I am able to actually work
on the car, I am very anxious to do so. I am now one week
behind on building the kicks.

thanks everyone for the welcome and compliments!


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## KARPE

well, I'm a pic whore. I'd like to see a pic of everything you intend to change/update/upgrade. Other than that, I just say show off the car.

The JL HD series amps are getting awesome reviews. I'd also check out the new Stereo Integrity BM shallow subs


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## freemind

Cool assed car man.

Look into this one if you want an 8 channel with a small footprint,

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/member-product-reviews/8769-xetec-gravity-8g-1000-amplifier.html


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## sam3535

Welcome to DIYMA; looking forward to the build. I travel to Mobile frequently and would to see the vehicle.


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## slomofo

How are you arranging your subs. if you haven't quite decided, do a search for innovative audio (now defunct) from seattle. they did a setup in Sir Mixalot's 930cab where they put a 12 in each of the rear seat areas. they did the enclosures downfiring and made them look like seats. worked really well, sounded well, and looked great. 
as far as amps, I know I would buy JL slash series amps. that's just me.


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## jimmyjames16

t3sn4f2 said:


> JL HD's or maybe a couple of Zed's new offerings after they establish themselves. Or a couple Zuki Eleets if you can find them.


^^^..x2


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## FLYONWALL9

I'M GOING TO TRY AND ANSWER ALL OF THESE MESSAGES
IN ONE POST......(sorry for the caps)


SAM,
I tell you what, how bout we'll get together when I am doin
with the car. Seeing progress or lack as it seems as of late
really is nothing to look at. Plus I live in a huge neighborhood
which is a navigational nightmare. But once I'm done I can
meet you at a central location and let you take a demo. Bring
your fav CD's........

SLOMOFO,
Thanks for the install suggestion. I'm going to do likely two 10s
in a sealed enclosure. The subs will fire towards the engine in a
very thin enclosure. It will fire into the wall and vent into the cab
area. You will look into the box via plexi at the baskets in a fiber-
glass tub. Kind of hard to explain, when I get to that point you'll
see where its going. I am going to try and mimic the nice rear 
wheel tub that the car has and make the sub box the same.
My amps or processors will be in the place where those seats 
are in fiberglass tubs.

The amps I would love to get my hands on which I've owned in
the past when I sold them were Blade SE's. I've yet to find any-
thing that sounded close to them. If any of you know of any of
the new stuff do tell because I honestly am not up to speed on
anything from the past 12 or so years. I've been playing in the
middle east sand for too long and have no clue what is great
these days! THANKS!! OH, I had a buddy that still works in
the field tell me the Slash stuff sounded nice, I'm just worried
about current draw. These cars have pretty small charging 
systems. So, the HD JL amps may be about my best choice
so far. I've heard the ALPINE dig amps are not very natural
or neutral sounding. I'm not wanting something to color or 
have a strong freq range. 

CEDOMAN,
I've looked and read into the ZED amps that are now being
made and honestly the amount of people that have had bad
exp makes me want to shy away. I don't know anything about
the ZUKI's and will have to find some reviews but I have added
them to my search list. I do appreciate your feedback though!
Do stay tuned, this is sure to be a really fun build. I look forward
to working with glass again and may even try some hard metal 
machine work.


EVERYONE, thanks for dropping by my build blog thingie I know
I have been slow with build pics I will tighten up. DO, come back.
AGAIN, if you find loads of misspelling keep in mind I am under 
very high doses of pain meds and meds for a disease which I 
was diagnosed with a couple of years ago. ALL 6 of them are
in many ways mind altering, I'll try and use spell check as much
as possible. I promise I am well educated and world traveled and
not a 3 toothed Alabama *******...:laugh:


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## buddhaV6

good luck on the project buddy. 

i've always wanted that car and i love those MB Quarts


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## jimmyjames16

FLYONWALL9 said:


> CEDOMAN,
> I've looked and read into the ZED amps that are now being
> made and honestly the amount of people that have had bad
> exp makes me want to shy away. I don't know anything about
> the ZUKI's and will have to find some reviews but I have added
> them to my search list. I do appreciate your feedback though!
> Do stay tuned, this is sure to be a really fun build. I look forward
> to working with glass again and may even try some hard metal
> machine work.


Hey Fly... understandable about the Zed amp. Let me tell you that the Leviathan was just manufactured by ZED just this past August. It is one hell of an amp. I just received mine on Friday. If your main concern is your car's elctrical system especially since this is a 89 edition.. I would run straight to Zed especially for its quality, reliability, price, and sophistication of the amp itself. Call up Steve Mantz at Zed Audio and talk to the man. The Zuki's are probably the best thing I could have done for my frontstage (mids & tweets). Its pretty good on my electrical too with a price tag that outweighs the cost off true audiophile amps that you would get for $1000- $1500. You have to here them to believe it. That's a good car. Good luck with the glassing.


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## jimmyjames16

Honestly,... the Leviathan is worth way more than its price tag of $600 IMHO. There were some issues to be fixed because it was his first class "d" 6 channel amp, but that should not stop you from using it in your install. I was just admiring it this evening. Here are some pics. The pics don't do it justice. You really have to see it up close to see its components and quality of his craftsmanship. You won't get this from the JL HD amps that cost the same for a 4 channel. Read his literature that came with the amp and you will be convinced:









































And for shallow subs... I like the JL TW5.. specs looks good.. but I never heard one as of yet.


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## FLYONWALL9

First I really need to apologize to those of you who have
subscribed to my build. I know its likely the slowest build
on this board and for that I'm sorry. I was able to get some
new meds this week after my old dope really stopped 
working. The blessed UPS man delivered my goods to-
day and by 4pm I felt like working on my kicks. I'm sure
many of you are my age and working at bench height
takes a toll on the neck. One of the meds I got today 
really helped that, I'm grateful.

This update really isn't anything you guys haven't seen
before but its not yet documented in my build. I drew
up a tear drop shape for the Quart 4" and tweet. Cut
that out and drew out where the mid and tweet would
be located. It really looked too large so I reduced that
down quite a bit to a shape just small enough to hold
the drivers. These parts will be painted red (I think) 
with the rest of the kick paint matched to the exterior
of the car. I took the factory kick panels out of the car
and took a mold of those. Again, nothing you guys 
haven't seen. I had some issues with some old resin
not setting up so I went and purchased new. I had to
make up some hot batches to flash the old resin. I'm
quite glad this worked, I damn sure didn't want to re-
mold them. I hope this weekend I can get those molded
parts trimmed to near the shape they should be. I'll then
remask the inside of the car, place the new kick in and
bondo them for a more exact fit. Again, nothing you guys
haven't done. However, I will take pics of this process to
show just how cramped the working area and what lies
behind the panel. You'll see how very well made these 
little cars are.

I've settled on a door panel design and am looking really
forward to getting to those. The pull handle, and all door
trim will remain black, the coverings will be a red leather
called "LOBSTER" with the part that I'm glassing being
paint matched (silver) to the car. It sounds really busy 
but it should look pretty classy. If I don't like the silver I'll
paint them black. The thing is the silver look will be carried
to the inside of the sub enclosure and amp, processor rack.

Also, today I found my old IXOS 6chan RCA's that I may 
cut up and use some nice Phoenix Gold ends. In the same
box was my old IXOS speaker wire. Now I have to talk my
nephew into taking my old power wire out of my old car to
match all the rest of the gear. That crap was like 6 bucks a
foot, I sure hope he proves me wrong and gives it to me...
You just cant find that stuff now.


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## AudioBob

Cedoman,

I have heard the JL 13TW5 in one of my friends demo cars and they sound really nice. He has a pair of them fiberglassed into the spare tire well running off of one of the new HD amps. I believe that it is an HD750.

They don't dig ultra low, but they play a very nice range of basss and sub-bass. I could certainly live with them. He had them sharing the air space and I don't know if they would be better in separate enclosures.

In his other demo car he has 4 8w7s' in a sealed enclosure running off of a 1000/1. I thought that the TW5s sounded just as musical and played just a touch lower than the 48w7s.


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## FLYONWALL9

*Re: 89Targa Carrera UPDATE WITH AMP PORN!!!!*

Due to all the rain we have had over the past 2 weeks has
really cut down on my glass lay-ups. So, I've taken the time
to send off items that were in need of repair, also placing
order for some rarities. I did end up redoing my kick baffles
which I thought were just a bit too large. Those will get reshaped
tomorrow. Now that I have my amps I'll know how much wire I
need to order. I had all the wire needed but my nephew is being
a ******* and not bringing my old IXOS wire, so I'm in need of
finding some very flexible 4 gauge power and ground wire, also,
some 10 gauge from the fuse blocks to amps. I think I am going
the Tsunami route, they have some rather unique items that you
don't see too often. Plus the price is right.... I should have my 
subs in at the end of the week. My ES system needed some
rather extensive repair, those parts wont be in until next week
but they should be good to go. Not bad for a system I've had
15 years.

I know everyone loves pics so here is some amp PORN!!!!
I GOT LUCKY! So, it is looking like this will be an OLDSCHOOL
system...COOLNESS!









The specks you see are lint not paint damage, I would rate them
a solid 9 of 10 cosmetically... Thanks to a GREAT guy on this forum!


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## PGT FTW

I have a brand new set of Quart 4" Premium mids...the last model that were made in Germany. They're languishing in the box in my cabinet...look to be newer/better than what you have there. If you're at all interested, shoot me a PM....I'll pass them on for cheap to a good home (like your build). They're all that's left from my Quart stash....200mm, 160mm, 130mm, 100mm and 25mm drivers...all new and all the last German made stuff.


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## diamondjoequimby

cool car. Every one of those I have ever done gets AMAZING mid-bass from the doors.


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## kh971

Blade Amps...Man I remember those amps.


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## FLYONWALL9

kh971 said:


> Blade Amps...Man I remember those amps.


I sure hope this is the same case with mine. I'll be putting
the Quart 8s in door pods. 

Can you give me an idea how you mounted the speaker?

I was going to make a pod that attached over the top of
the door panel. The pod will be an extention of the door
pocket. Where the map pocket is below the speaker that
will get extended up and house the 8. If any of that makes
sense.


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## slvrtsunami

Hmm, that brings back memories....Blade, theres a brand that never really took off, but should have. I wonder if the same people from Canada still run the company. Anyway, Nice car, well kept. I have two questions for you. 1) in what way are you orienting the 4 and tweet. Which one is going to be on top, the mid or the tweet. 2) Ever thought of using a single ten IB in the front trunk? I used to do that in my setups and it worked pretty well (not to mention stock appearance inside. Shoot me a PM if your curious.... Good luck and Thanks for your service for our freedom.


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## FLYONWALL9

It was truly my honor! I wish I had not been diagnosed with Crohn's
so I could have done my 20+, I would gladly go back if it meant our
youth could stay home......

I haven't yet determined the orientation of the mid/tweet. I have
a pretty powerful time alignment processor so I'm not sure it 
makes much of a difference. I will trim the fiberglass part that
mounts the kick to the car. After I do that I will do the standard
taking dowels and playing with angles. Behind both kicks are
fans for ac/heater. If the mid hits one way vs the other that will
determine which is on the top or bottom. I almost think I should
put the tweeter on the bottom to get round the steering wheel.

I have thought of using the front boot to do the subs but I will 
only have a very modest 200 watts peak on each sub, so I
thought it may be best to do them in the cab portion of the car?
Were you doing the subs in the smugglers hold?


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## slvrtsunami

FLYONWALL9 said:


> It was truly my honor! I wish I had not been diagnosed with Crohn's
> so I could have done my 20+, I would gladly go back if it meant our
> youth could stay home......
> 
> I haven't yet determined the orientation of the mid/tweet. I have
> a pretty powerful time alignment processor so I'm not sure it
> makes much of a difference. I will trim the fiberglass part that
> mounts the kick to the car. After I do that I will do the standard
> taking dowels and playing with angles. Behind both kicks are
> fans for ac/heater. If the mid hits one way vs the other that will
> determine which is on the top or bottom. I almost think I should
> put the tweeter on the bottom to get round the steering wheel.
> 
> I have thought of using the front boot to do the subs but I will
> only have a very modest 200 watts peak on each sub, so I
> thought it may be best to do them in the cab portion of the car?
> Were you doing the subs in the smugglers hold?


 
Your very welcome.
The best orientation I have found (this was pre-time alignment) was to put the tweeter on the bottom and basically aim the panels towards the third brake light. I forget the actual name for that alignment, but it worked well for me.
For that model 911 (84-89 I think) my installer used to build a panel to replace the fan motor access in the front trunk, being none directional the bass easily filled the cabin. Believe it or not, the older Pioneer free air tens were being used with a little more than 200W on them and performed admirably. I am sure there are superior IB 10's available now. I used to mount the electronics in the 'smugglers hold'.

Please post more pics when you can.


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## FLYONWALL9

"Please post more pics when you can. "

If we don't get rain again tomorrow I'll try and blow off
all the leaves and take some pics. Which or what would
you like them of? I was thinking of doing the mid on top
and hope to be able to angle it as much as you suggest.
I haven't done kicks in an easy 12 years so its taking me
much longer than it once did. That and health are my 2
main restraint. It truely is killin me, I wanna hear this stuff!

I really was thinking of doing the subs in an enclosure like
your talking about. I may build a test box and see which
I liked best. The idea of them being up front is pretty cool
and would solve all sorts of image issues.

BUT let me know what you would like pics of, I really haven't
taken much of the car in the 2 months I've owned it.


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## slvrtsunami

well, actually I am very familiar with the interior of the car. I guess the progress on the kicks and the doors when you start on them.

You have some older Sony ES stuff? wasnt there two processor displays? or did the head unit take care of that.

Try the IB up front. Peel back the carpet and I think the panel is easily removable. I think any ten with a relatively high QTS would work for testing reasons.


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## FLYONWALL9

"You have some older Sony ES stuff? wasnt there two processor displays? or did the head unit take care of that."


Yes the ES stuff I have is the XES-P1 it is a box which is
the eq and factory eq preset as well as user presets and 
pre amp with display. The display is just that and nothing 
more, no buttons or anything. The system came with three
remotes one smallish remote that only does track and volume
functions, a joystick which does the same, and one LARGE
full function remote that looks like a home audio remote. The 
XES-X1 is the 72db pre octave crossover, time alignment. You
could preset different crossover slopes, time correction and 
attatch them to a cd or 10 user presets. Most of the time I
just had two tunes, one for bass heavy music, one for a more
dynamic preset. It can be a really confusing piece but I've owned
it for so long its all second nature.


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## FLYONWALL9

I know its been a really long time from my last update, and for that I am sorry to those of you who have subscribed to my build. I'm sure many of you realize my health often doesn't allow me to build as much as I wish, that is when I come here to get a fix from those of you who do build at a steady pace.

However, I have been putting in a few hours from time to time and now consider my kicks to be on the downhill side of the build process. I've taken a mold of the stock part and built a nice set of baffles for the Quart 4" components. I've discovered my OCD is much worse than I've noticed in past projects. I had to get to the point and tell myself that this **** is good enough!lol.... My plan with these kicks have change some, I was going to paint match them to the car. Now, I'm thinking that carpet would look much better and they wont look so out of place. The baffles I think I am going to cover with a product I didn't know anything about until I found it here in another build thread.Silver Neffy - Silver Carbon Fiber Wrap [NW02] - $35.00 : Neffywrap.com, Home of the Original Neffy Carbon Fiber Wrap
After getting a sample I think I'll put it on the baffles then clear over it with PPG. I'll post pics just as soon as the camera batteries charge. 

I'm really looking forward to moving onto the door panels. With only a couple small purchases I almost have all the items I'll need to finish the car. Some of which have been rather difficult to find. Also, a 1500 buck clutch has put me behind on the build. I should have all that back in the car after the game on Sunday.... WOOOODAT!


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## FLYONWALL9

I ALMOST FORGOT, those that wanted pics of the car I will be SURE to get those tomorrow. I'll just take a bunch of random pics of everything the way it is now so we will get a good before and after log. It should be interesting to see the transformation, LOTS of changes will be made to the car. After all the inside is all that is left in the complete restoration.

I went ahead and went to the store, got some AA batteries put them in my camera grip converter so I could get these posted. I didn't want to wait for the batteries to charge..
AMP PORN, I cant help but post up another pic of these. I simply cannot wait to hear these...









one little nick that prolly wont matter at all in this panel is driving me nuts....


































a little derail, one of the last bikes I painted. If your a Duc fan can you pick out
what I changed on the rear fairing?


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## FLYONWALL9

diamondjoequimby said:


> cool car. Every one of those I have ever done gets AMAZING mid-bass from the doors.


Joe,

If your still following along, could you tell me or show me some pics of the 
911's. I'm wondering about the sound deadening done, did you do any CCF or MLV? I've got two really BIG boxes of standard sound deadening I plan to use, just wondering how much you think is truly needed? One of my main issues is the wire. You know how hard it is getting wire in the door, for this reason I was going to use the stock wire for the 8's. I was going to do all the midbass/mids/hi's in the doors but due to the wire and how hard it is to run I opted to only do the 8s. I'll be moving onto the doors next and I like to hash out all options and build the parts in my mind before moving onto the actual material.

THANKS


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## CA4944

Great car. How is the build coming? They're a little thin on Porsches here, I notice! 

I'm still assembling parts for my '88 951, but hope to have something going in the spring. It's kind of intimidating to post my own work up here, though: there is some shockingly good craftsmanship!


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## FLYONWALL9

CA4944 said:


> Great car. How is the build coming? They're a little thin on Porsches here, I notice!
> 
> I'm still assembling parts for my '88 951, but hope to have something going in the spring. It's kind of intimidating to post my own work up here, though: there is some shockingly good craftsmanship!


I agree, we need more classic sports car builds; Porsche's would just be a bonus..... The build is well, rather slow, but I work on it every chance I feel my health will allow. I learned with my motorcycle builds that working on quality vehicles can be a real treat!

I really love the 951's, that whole Datson/Nissan 280ZX, Mazda RX-7 era yielded some very nice sports cars. Several years ago I test drove one that was in really poor condition masked by a shiny new paint job. I love the rear finder flares on those cars! You really should post your work, share it with us. 

*Honestly I felt intimidated by these guys with the great work that they do. I've learned one really neat thing about this board, no matter what your skill set is your always welcome to post and everyone is genuinely interested. They will help you learn new things, and even help hone the skill you have and teach you new ones. God knows I've posted some stupid questions, and replies (due largely in part to all the meds I take, like now:+) and I cant think of once being called out. Though like a drunk that talks too much while on the sauce, I tend to type too much. With that said, I cant think of even reading any harsh, derogatory, and negative comments on this forum. One of the main reasons why I joined and canceled all the rest of the 12v boards I was a member of. I think you will be pleasantly surprised as I was with the feedback you will get from your build. So, please do share..... Have a blessed weekend!*


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## 94VG30DE

FLYONWALL9 said:


> Honestly I felt intimidated by these guys with the great work that they do. I've learned one really neat thing about this board, no matter what your skill set is your always welcome to post and everyone is genuinely interested. They will help you learn new things, and even help hone the skill you have and teach you new ones. God knows I've posted some stupid questions, and replies (due largely in part to all the meds I take, like now:+) and I cant think of once being called out. Though like a drunk that talks too much while on the sauce, I tend to type too much. With that said, I cant think of even reading any harsh, derogatory, and negative comments on this forum. One of the main reasons why I joined and canceled all the rest of the 12v boards I was a member of. I think you will be pleasantly surprised as I was with the feedback you will get from your build. So, please do share..... Have a blessed weekend!


Yeah, never ever hesitate to post your work on here. If you look for my work, you can see some of what is sloppy compared to others on the forum, but I have gotten nothing but positive feedback. It's a community, and we recognize that not everyone is a carpenter or an installer for a living. Which is good, b/c I'm neither  

Keep the Porsche pics coming guys! Air cooled or water cooled, I love them.


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## CA4944

Thanks for the encouragement! I would really like to see how those kick panels look in the footwells, as I'm having some trouble envisioning something similar on my own car...


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## sydmonster

Ok, the yellow Duc is obviously a 748S Mono. I think a pair of Marchi's on the front & no front screen (nice wind-in-your-face touch) & single mirror reduced wind drag conversion.

In the back a limited MH Rep and an ST2 (could be 3 or 4 but hard to say)


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## FLYONWALL9

sydmonster said:


> Ok, the yellow Duc is obviously a 748S Mono. I think a pair of Marchi's on the front & no front screen (nice wind-in-your-face touch) & single mirror reduced wind drag conversion.
> 
> In the back a limited MH Rep and an ST2 (could be 3 or 4 but hard to say)


COME ON MAN!!! All that and you didn't notice what I really changed? lol

The owner had the screen on order, and he hadn't put on the mirrors in
this photo. 

Anyway, what I did body was was to flush in the rear lights, and I also
molded then lenses to match the contour of the rear so its a very smooth
finish/transition. If you know these bikes which you seem you do, you know
those lights from the factory have about 1/4" gaps and stick out nearly the
same past the fairing. I haven't seen the bike all put back together or had
the chance to wetsand and polish, so I don't really know how well it turned
out....

Thanks for playing along


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## niceguy

Beautiful car.....I stayed in Mobile back in '05 for a few months w/some friends doing Katrina disaster relief volunteer work in Longbeach/Hanging Moss, MS on the coast....

Keep at it, you'll get it done....I'm not disabled and my work van/rolling test bed still has interior panels,etc missing. I fly through the dismantle process, take my time on the install and then rarely get everything back together. At least it makes it easier to change things out again!

Nice work on the bikes...last one I had was nothing special but I had fun...'84 Nighthawk 700SC....black w/the aluminum and black wheels....sweet....


----------



## sydmonster

FLYONWALL9 said:


> COME ON MAN!!! All that and you didn't notice what I really changed? lol
> 
> The owner had the screen on order, and he hadn't put on the mirrors in
> this photo.
> 
> Anyway, what I did body was was to flush in the rear lights, and I also
> molded then lenses to match the contour of the rear so its a very smooth
> finish/transition. If you know these bikes which you seem you do, you know
> those lights from the factory have about 1/4" gaps and stick out nearly the
> same past the fairing. I haven't seen the bike all put back together or had
> the chance to wetsand and polish, so I don't really know how well it turned
> out....
> 
> Thanks for playing along


doeth!!! (egg on my face) but actually still can't tell as in the photo the light lenses look just like the 4 other monoposto 916/748's I've worked on. 
But, NICE WORK>>>  

btw, mine is my avatar. 888 "copy spec" 600M frame, 900SS running gear, 750SS upfront with 916SP stopping power all in a very low & light package. Power lifts in 3rd if not carefull and every day handling/flex.

Is you avatar NC30-400?? or the 750?

** Apologies for being so O/T on your build thread. Bikes do that to me!!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

No worries about the derail, bikes are of interest. I'm not the type that is worried about keeping my build log only about the car. Heck it would be boring to me if so, and all ya'll wouldn't know where I'm coming from.

The 748 was in VERY poor shape when it came to me with rash on every panel and in serious help. The owner was amazed at what I was able to repair, restore, fix without even using any filler or glass to fix the rashed panels. I like to do as little changes to a bike like that so that when an avid Duc enthusiast will look at it and scratch his/her head trying to figure out what is different. The first ride this owner took with his buddies who are also Duc collectors started a waiting list of who's will get massaged next. I told all of them not until my car was done. You gotta have priorities 

Yeah, the bike in the picture is the NC30. I purchased it as a basket case and used it as a rehab tool after my back accident. After a full restoration which involved me even putting every nut and bolt in a rock tumbler and reassembly to new or better condition. I have a close friend who only lives a few miles from me that I used his RC30 to aid me on how they were properly built. I've been doing a slow restoration of that bike for a couple of years. His weekend rider is an RC45, my how nice it must be to have an ass load of money for all your man toys?


----------



## sydmonster

^^^ cool.

+1 on money for toys, (even if in a world scale it's such a selfish consumerism driven want )


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## slvrtsunami

but how else can a man keep his sanity?!? 



but, honey!! I NEED this!! Its important to me!


I know pretty pathetic.


----------



## [email protected]

Always had a thing for this body style Porsche


----------



## CA4944

Sorry I took so long on this, but here's a shot of the antenna on my Porsche. This is actually a retrofit, but you can find them on the '83-'86 944, '86 951 and '92-'95 968. It is powered (as in, there is a switched 12v lead to the antenna for its built-in amplifier).


----------



## douggiestyle

i hope the lack of AUDIO updates is because you're doing justice to that beauty of a car!


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## cleung

nice car, keep us updated on the progress


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Charlie thanks for the pic! I was hoping that thing mounted to the glass. I don't think I want to drill a hole in my targa bar. BUT, that is the look I'm after, maybe an old cell ant will work.....


----------



## FLYONWALL9

My progress is yet once again halted. I had to have a facet block, I was told to just lay up for a week or so. DAMNIT!!!! Lemme tell you guys/gals IF, your doctor says you need one of these exhaust EVERY single option before hand. I've had no less than 13 injections in my spine over the past several years. I cannot put into words how it feels, the closest thing I've had that is this bad is kidney stones. That said, I had one of those hit me last week about half the size of a pencil eraser... OH THE FUN!!!

NUFF of that ****. I did sneak out to a buddies shop to bead blast my Sony processor covers. They have seen many years of use and several different cars, its time to show them some love. I'll post some pics of the covers after bead blasting and painting a bit later.


















These pics are what is behind the kicks, this should give an idea of how tight of a space I have to work in, and objects that I have to avoid. Its been a bit tricky.


















This picture just shows how tight the door wiring is. I can see NO WAY to install my wires without taking the door off. I wont be doing that! I'm just going to pick up the wires behind the radio for the 8's I'll be using. If you look just below and close to the hinge you will see 3 grommets.









Lastly, the doors. I'm going to make a panel just like you see at the bottom that is carpeted. It will go up past where the 61/2 hole is. This panel will be sealed and attached through the door card into the door itself for rigidity.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I've made some progress. I have some cleaning up to do but they
are ALMOST ready for carpet and houndstooth. The houndstooth
will be the center parts of the pods, centers behind the grills for the
doors, and centers for the seats. Does anyone know of an expandable 
foam that isn't sticky? I have an idea for my grills that will give a molded 
look but should be very easy to build. 



















The angle has been changed from this a bit.









These are just about ready for covering


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I got the door cards off and discovered building new ones will be much more difficult than expected. All the holes and through holes for mounting and various passes of handles, pulls, mounting push buttons. This is going to take time! My plan is to duplicate the factory door cards and sculpt the part that the factory carpets out of foam. I'll then take that foam part as a mold and glass over it. This will then give me a duplicate of the door pocket under the arm rest. Its good for hiding stuff. This sculpted part will only be a cover for the 8" door pod that will be sealed. As said before I have two choices of drivers 8" quarts and 8" OZ superman logo's. These will be sealed pods because I don't want a bass heavy or boomy door, if it turns out to be too small I'll look into APM or venting. I don't yet know if I will carpet, paint, or vinyl the lower sculpted part?? Any thoughts?

I've decided to complete the entire build then go back and upholster everything at one time, for two reasons. To keep parts clean, fresh and matching, and because I'm having a difficult time finding carpet, leather, and vinyl the color I want.










I did find the first little bit of sound deadening in the car, a good sheet 2ftx2ft on the outer door skin.


----------



## MTopper

looks good so far. i love older Porsche. good luck with your body and your car


----------



## jsun_g

For sealed midbass enclosures, that big oval cut-out at the bottom of the door looks like a prime location to get some more air space for the enclosure (i.e. recess the enclosure inside the door here). But IMHO mount the midbass as far forward in the door as possible, using the factory location in this case, to minimize PLD...and extend the enclosure forward from the cut-out to the driver.



FLYONWALL9 said:


> I got the door cards off and discovered building new ones will be much more difficult than expected. All the holes and through holes for mounting and various passes of handles, pulls, mounting push buttons. This is going to take time! My plan is to duplicate the factory door cards and sculpt the part that the factory carpets out of foam. I'll then take that foam part as a mold and glass over it. This will then give me a duplicate of the door pocket under the arm rest. Its good for hiding stuff. This sculpted part will only be a cover for the 8" door pod that will be sealed. As said before I have two choices of drivers 8" quarts and 8" OZ superman logo's. These will be sealed pods because I don't want a bass heavy or boomy door, if it turns out to be too small I'll look into APM or venting. I don't yet know if I will carpet, paint, or vinyl the lower sculpted part?? Any thoughts?
> 
> I've decided to complete the entire build then go back and upholster everything at one time, for two reasons. To keep parts clean, fresh and matching, and because I'm having a difficult time finding carpet, leather, and vinyl the color I want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did find the first little bit of sound deadening in the car, a good sheet 2ftx2ft on the outer door skin.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Thanks for the encouragement and idea's guys! It does help to keep me motivated

jsun_g,
My thoughts exactly on the enclosure. However, that large oval cut out is where the concealed door pocket is. If you look at the pic with the card in place that large carpeted part is the pocket. As you suggest I was going to use the factory speaker hole, much to my surprise it already has a nice large cup that goes into that void. So, I'll mimic that cup and build out off the card a couple of inches. The part that I am going to be sculpting out of foam and glassing will then be a cover so to speak for the MB enclosure. I'm not sure how much air space I'll be able to get, I have some notes from years ago when I spoke with Quart where they modeled response for me. I'll have to dig those up and get as close as possible.

Again, thanks for the insight. If the above seems bassackwards please post up.

CHEERS


----------



## Wesayso

Any new updates or new plans? Are you still going for the kick panels? In a way I hope so seeing the work you have allready into it. I bet it would sound good and wide. I wouldn't want to miss that space in my daily driven though.

Can I do something to get you back at it? :laugh:


----------



## FLYONWALL9

THANKS!

The kicks are done, they just need carpet. They will get that when I do the rest of the floors. You know how the factory panels are made? Up and well off the floor? My kicks are just like those, in fact I used the factory panels as a mold. So, honestly you don't even know they are in the car. 

I've been working on the AC for the past couple of weeks, I hope to have that done this weekend. I have both door panels cut out along with my 8" baffles, I just need to sculpt (from foam blocks) the door pockets and glass them.

Without question this is taking MUCH longer than I hoped it would, puts into perspective my poor health.


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

I'm going to watch this one. No worries about taking your time, no one is paying you to do this. Besides, if you knew how many months I spend _thinking_ about my own builds before I even touch a tool, I think we'd be on the same page in terms of time frame. Keep up the good work!


----------



## sydmonster

tuff car to work on, but oh it will be sweet to drive with some "tunes"


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Do we have any PhotoChop junkies in the bunch? What I am 
looking for is for someone to change the colors of this door
skin. Perhaps two different renderings if at all possible. One
would be all red but lets say closer to Crimson Tide red, but
the bottom where you see the carpeted area in a gloss silver
the color of the car. The next would be leave the top cap part 
black, red centers with the silver gloss bottom. I'm thinking 
the last rendering is going to be too busy, as suggested by 
other P-car members. But with something to look at this will 
make it easier to judge. 









ANY help would be great, the job doesn't have to be perfect
by any means just something to give me some sort of idea.

THANKS in advance for any help given


----------



## rawdawg

Is this what you're lookin' for?


----------



## FLYONWALL9

THANKS for that! Honestly now, its a toss up neither look bad. It
does give a a very good idea how it will turn out.

The portion in front of the door pull and above the factory speaker, 
is it just my computer or is this black? Has the color been changed
on it and due to my photo it was unable to really make it as red
as the other parts?

This board once again pays off!

THANKS


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

FLYONWALL9 said:


> The portion in front of the door pull and above the factory speaker,
> is it just my computer or is this black? Has the color been changed
> on it and due to my photo it was unable to really make it as red
> as the other parts?


Looks red to me, just a little darker. Probably because it's in the shadows a bit.

Oh, PS, if you're going to bead-blast the crossover covers, have you considered powder-coating them? I don't know if you already did that part, but I wanted to offer it as a suggestion because it would be much more durable than paint.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I already painted them with PPG to match the Sony colors
of that time. I have a brand new CDX-91 that I used to 
color match. Then they were clear coated. I have a friend
that powder coats that offered I just didn't feel like driving
them 100 miles round trip for a job I could do myself.

Thanks for the suggestion


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

FLYONWALL9 said:


> I already painted them with PPG to match the Sony colors
> of that time. I have a brand new CDX-91 that I used to
> color match. Then they were clear coated. I have a friend
> that powder coats that offered I just didn't feel like driving
> them 100 miles round trip for a job I could do myself.
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion


You're welcome. I would love to see pics when you get the chance.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I hope to have some pics up this weekend. I'm going to make panels for
the large holes in the door, seal, deaden, lastly CCF. Install a new AC
Evap blower and motor. If I get a chance to do a final sand and rub I'll
shoot pics of all that I have done now.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

So my update...

With my pass door skin off I laid down some deadening tiles. I cannot even begin to explain how much of a difference this made in the door, it is so much more solid. Even with the new door skin off I can tell a huge benefit. The car only had a smallish 8x8 piece in the middle of the outter skin. I did both inner and outer metal parts of the door as much as I could with my huge hands. I do have PICS, come later. 

While I recovered from a facet block on my lower back and still high, my creative brain was in over drive. I've been trying to figure out what to put both my XES-P1, 
XES-X1 in. The mounting spot will be the rear floor board, so this will need to be water tight. Not wanting to build anything I decided to use a warming tray, you know those serving trays at a buffet. Stainless steel, nice rounded corners, and a lip to fasten and calk/CCF, best part cost 8 bucks!. The fit is perfect, both in the car and the processors which will go in them. I will put down my tiles, then CCF, build a block of foam to form up a false floor and hold the processor boxes in place. Oh, lastly I will put MLV and carpet. I'm thinking the foam will also reduce some of the floor noise. Again, PICS of the processor covers resting in the heating treys will be posted in a bit.


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

FLYONWALL9 said:


> So my update...
> 
> With my pass door skin off I laid down some deadening tiles. I cannot even begin to explain how much of a difference this made in the door, it is so much more solid. Even with the new door skin off I can tell a huge benefit. I did both inner and outer metal parts of the door as much as I could with my huge hands. I do have PICS, come later.
> 
> While I recovered from a facet block on my lower back and still high, my creative brain was in over drive. I've been trying to figure out what to put both my XES-P1,
> XES-X1 in. The mounting spot will be the rear floor board, so this will need to be water tight. Not wanting to build anything I decided to use a warming trey, you know those serving trays at a buffet. Stainless steel, nice rounded corners, and a lip to fasten and calk/CCF. The fit is perfect, both in the car and the processors which will go in them. I will put down my tiles, then CCF, build a block of foam to form up a false floor and hold the processor boxes in place. Oh, lastly I will put MLV and carpet. I'm thinking the foam will also reduce some of the floor noise. Again, PICS of the processor covers resting in the heating treys will be posted in a bit.


I'm definitely looking forward for the pics. How thick of foam will you be using? Unless it's _really thick,_ don't expect it to block noise. It can absorb very high frequency airborne noises, it can be used to decouple your mass layer, or it can be used to simply fill space. Just don't expect miracles, I once had 2" of CCF in the trunk of my car and it didn't change anything. Did pad the floor a bit, though.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

The car didn't have a plastic vap blocker like yours, zero, nadda. So, I'm mostly using it for that, or I have some MLV I could use. Tit for tat really, filling those large holes will help greatly. I'll use CCF under the vinyl also, if you look above the skins have a ///// like deal in them. Cant decide if I want to just cut it in the CCF or have it done like the factory panel.

I did find some trash in my paint for the p1,x1 so they will get a redo or I may just mix some color in the clear and be done with it. The coolest thing ever is the little tray deals I found.


----------



## CA4944

I'm glad to see this is still a going concern! 

Are the inner skins of your doors as wobbly as the ones on my 944? I found that a couple of slightly contoured aluminum plates and those pods I bolted to mine made them a lot more solid.

Keep at it! I'm back to work on mine, too!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Charlie,

Yeah I'm several months behind when I wanted to finish. Oh well huh....

The doors in this thing are solid as a rock, the outter has a rather large bar in it, the inner was really pretty stiff because of all the changes in the panel. Glad to hear your back on yours too!

I know it sounded really cheeseball but as you see they look pretty dang good and will work like a CHAMP... Stoked to find something already made, one last thing I have to worry with.


















DOOR, duh


----------



## MTopper

i really like your sony amps. they're great looking especially with the red accents


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

I'm trying to understand the warming tray... er, "amp racks" will mount. You said it has to be water-tight because it's going in the rear floorboard? Where, and how so? I just didn't understand your description 100%.

Anyway, one thought is you may want to cut a piece of MDF or thick HDPE or something _other than metal_ to go in the bottom of the warming trays. That would serve as a mounting surface for the processors. I think it's generally a bad idea to mount amps, processors, or any other electronics directly to any metal surface. It tends to be flimsy and resonant (read: vibration prone, damaging solder joints inside the component), and can conduct electrical noise. I'm guessing you've already thought of this, but it's worth mentioning.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I really needed a distraction today. I had to bury my 101 year old great aunt today. To think of someone who was born in 1909, the things she has seen and gone through baffles the mind. To be able to have gone through all the wars, and finical hardships of the time, then towards the end see our first black President I'm sure was a shock. She had a fantastic memory even up to the end, would read the news paper every day. I could only hope/wish that in my end I am half the person she was.. To know her was to love her, she had such a sweet old soul. No matter what day it was once you walked into her room she would glow. it was the little things that made her happy, and the person she was. Such simple things brought her so much joy, a box of 'fish crackers' on her birthday would put you on her Gold List. If you paid her a visit and had a 4 legged pet and didn't bring it for the visit it would move you down on said Gold List. It makes one think of how our world would be if we all followed in her footsteps. Aside from my father she was the last surviving member who carried our family name. More over, to be laid aside her sisters, and the rest of our family it sure put into perspective just how fragile our existence really is. I will miss her with my every breath. In the end she was very worried about her afterlife, you see in all those years she had never been baptized. Every week her Pastor would visit her, even at 101 she would give an offering to the church. She expressed her concerns, the Pastor assured her that simply doesn't mean your not going to heaven. "As long as you excepted Jesus, walked down the path you once again be with your sisters." Even so, a baptism was scheduled in two weeks.

So, needing something to take my mind off of things I decided to work on my door panels. Live said I already cut out the door card. The hardest part is what I worked on, making a mold from foam for the door pocket and map pocket. pics to follow

The process
I got sheets of 1/2" foam from Lowes used Super77 to glue up 4 sheets to match up the thickness of the arm rest and pocket. Then with a belt sander I started shaping the foam much like surf board makers do. I got the rough shape then came back with a "corner cat" jig sander using 220 grit paper. For the most part I have the shape I will be using. I will then cover all of the foam with tape and glass over it. 

I do have a dilemma, I'm trying to figure out do I want to mount the MB driver to this rather complicated (in shape) mold. OR, should I use it as a skin. What I mean is I can make an enclosure which will be mounted to the door then the molded part cover all this? If I mount the driver to the molded part it would be rather easy to finish off. If not then I will have to cut and make a complicated shaped grill. I guess if I did this I could use the cut out to make the grill. I know all this is hard to follow. I'll take pics tomorrow to make the visual much easier. 

The really hard part will be making the drivers door match the passengers, you'll see what I mean when the pics are up. If the 1st attempt works out I'll then do a step by step with pics of the process I used.


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

Sorry to hear about your great aunt.

Nice job on the doors, by the way. Are you sure you don't want to fill up those holes with sheet metal or something first, _then_ do the MLV? Really those two things serve two different functions, using both seems like it would be the best of both worlds. Isolate the front wave from the back so you can have some mid-bass, and block some airborne noise with the MLV as well. I actually ditched the vapor barrier completely after I sealed up the doors, there was no point in keeping it.

I hope I'm not making too much extra work for you, haha. I'm glad to see this coming along!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Thanks for the advise.....

I will be covering the holes with resin coated hard board after I put CDL tiles on them. I was going to use the CCF either on the back of the door card or on the door itself. I've been kicking around the idea using MLV in the mix one way or another. My main reason for the CCF is to act as the vapor barrier for the most part. I think I spoke with SOUNDDEADENERSHOWDOWN asking if I should use MLV on the doors. It seems like he told me I may not get all that much result in doing the doors. NOW, please keep in mind I am on some REALLY harsh dope, so, I could have just thought this and he not even tell me this at all. Maybe if he is following my build he could get me straight on this. My first order of the stuff may not be enough to do all of the car so I'm sure at some point I will run out. 

Thanks again for your advise. I'm sure I've lost many people with this build because of its snails pace, so any advise will always be taken into consideration.


----------



## CA4944

+1 Sorry to hear about your aunt. People like her show us how to live...


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

Don't worry about the snail's pace. Yeah, realistically, I wouldn't worry about MLV in the doors, unless you'd already done the floor and wanted to take it to the next level. Most people I've seen that use it just do the entire floor to cut down on road noise. CCF is fine in the doors, as long as you know that all it really does is make the panel a snug fit, thereby cutting down on some panel squeaks and such. It's a fine vapor barrier I suppose, and also adds a bit of insulation.



Have fun, post pics when you have them. I'm sure to be watching.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Thanks all for the kind words about my aunt. She will surely 
be missed, however, she is in a much better place. No longer
in pain...


Did a bit of molding yesterday, thought I would check my work
after it got dark today. I knew taking pics of this thing in the day
ya'll wouldn't be able to see the contour of the foam. 

To mount the speakers, I will CCF the inside of both parts to 
give me 1/4" gap. Mask off the CCF, hot glue the speaker rings
I've made to match the factory speaker holes in the doors. Then
with kitty hair I will fill the gaps around the rings then glass. That
will be the baffle that mounts to the door itself. The part you see
in the pics will then go over it. All that will be left to do is make
molded grills.



















with the door closed, test fit shows I need to take about 1/8" off where it
contacts the knee pad on the dash. All in all not too far off for the first
try.


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

I'm not quite understanding, are you saying you only molded this for one side? How will you invert it? Whether you glass it inside or out, it's still going to be a passenger side door panel. Unless of course you have a suicide door on the driver's side. Or did I misunderstand?


----------



## CA4944

Scott, that looks like a good shape. I would think that that would disappear into the interior once you had it covered. I think I missed this: will it be a sealed enclosure, or open to the door cavity?


----------



## FLYONWALL9

CA4944 said:


> Scott, that looks like a good shape. I would think that that would disappear into the interior once you had it covered. I think I missed this: will it be a sealed enclosure, or open to the door cavity?


Thanks Charlie...

I have a bit of shaving / shaping left to do but in all this is close to what I'm after. I don't know if you saw this in other posts but I'm going with 'Lobster' int, getting away from black. The foam you see with be painted to match the outside of the car. The back of the door will once closed look like it follows around to the other door with a panel that covers the sub enclosure. Also that will be silver. In time I will build a center console that wll mate up to that sub panel and also be paint matched. Kind of like they did to the GT3. I will have to build the console because I'll be putting in a sequential shifter.

Picture a late 50's-60's convert Vette. Remember how that console met and then formed little tubs the seats were sunk into? I'm sure I will get flamed by the P-car owners......

That is the plan anyway, we both know how plans go. They often get changed or all together thrown out the window

HOW is your project? Your weather has been FANTASTIC as of late!


----------



## CA4944

FLYONWALL9 said:


> HOW is your project? Your weather has been FANTASTIC as of late!


It will be back soon! I'm actually planning a small update for this weekend (our Thanksgiving). I just finished up the track season -- you're right that we've been really lucky with weather -- and we're just about to pour a new slab at the farm which will be a garage (with a hoist) for my various automotive projects this winter. We're going to insulate and heat it, and everything! No more freezing my fingers in the winter!

I love those red interiors, but make sure that you do keep some black (carpets? seats?) for contrast.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I've decided to make a major design change, due to a couple of factors. The most of which is time, secondly being ability due mostly in part to health. My original design was to have the enclosure go in place of the rear seats. This will remain purely because its about the only place to come up with 3 cubic feet. I will still have a board 2 to 3" above the subs in efforts to load them, being a TARGA I would loose output with the top off. This will counter that a bit. I'll have a panel which can be removed to access the subs and fuses. The bit that will be changed is the amp rack. I was going to use linear actuators to raise the rack to access the fuses to be mounted on top of the enclosure. It would have done the duties of the loading board. As thin as my Blade amps are I think it will make the rack combined with the sub enclosure too tall using too much room in the back. Instead I will make the rack mount on the back wall or engine firewall and no automation. 

All in all this change will take up less room and hope to make the install a bit more stealth like. Also, I will be able to use materials that weigh less. The RS model of my car had a seat delete with a box in its place to store junk. So, to mimic this at first glance is key. The slot in the front of the enclosure, I will make a grill that looks like the grill on the engine lid. This will add some contrast and break up the 'box' look that the RS had.

So, my hope is to reduce production time and use less room overall. I still have to make some templates to see if this will really work because combined the amps are nearly 40" in length very close to the width of the firewall.

ALL OPEN TO SUGGESTION from those interested.

Cheers

I'll start back with the door build tomorrow.... I HOPE


----------



## FLYONWALL9

In my last post I said I was going to need to make changes. This has become rather evident while working on my doors. After just a few hours I was in some really major pain. I think I am going to need to invest in some sort of nice bar stool so that I can work at my bench without the fatigue and stress standing at the bench puts on my spine.

Anyway, I don't have pics but I do have an update. I was going extend the door pocket to include a cover for the housing for my 8's. Rather than doing that I decided to make that easier also. The 8's will flush mount to the pocket extension. Doing so I may not even have to cut the door at all, which I would much rather do. Now how this is going to sound is unknown. I will make them as solid as possible so no matter which 8 I end up using, (OZ or Quart) I shouldn't get any flex. They are looking pretty nice, on the other hand may end up looking goofy due to the LARGE speaker VS size of the door.

NOW, HERE IS MY QUESTION
If you look back at my door pics you will see the factory pocket is carpeted. This sure would be easy to duplicate and again cut my build time down some because the level at which I would need to fair the panel would be minimal. What I really wanted to do was to paint match them to the car. IMHO I do think this would look far more refined and modern. BUT, on the other hand not at all like a classic car. It probably wont matter much because sooner or later when I get my sequential shifter and need to build a center console I was going to again paint match it to the car.

What do you guys/gal's think I should do?

On a positive note, I found an upholstery shop to do my seats for a reasonable price 1200 doesn't seem too bad. He did order my vinyl and carpet for the rest of the car. I cant wait to have that red classic sports car look!

OH, on the coolness; the fab shop I am using should have my NIDACORE baffle for my subs done next week. This should save me some massive weight. Example a full sheet of HDF/MDF will weigh 50-55lbs my NIDACORE should come in at 26lbs for a sheet. Every little bit helps.... I'll be using balsa core for all my trim panels and amp rack panels, glassed that is.


----------



## Wesayso

Might I suggest to wrap the doorpods in something similar to the part on the top of the door and the original arm rests? The carpet thing might make the pods seem huge. The whole dash it connects to is wrapped in black vinyl as well and it would stand out from the red door card.
You could add some red details to the dash, kind of like this:








(photo borrowed from cnielsen, pelicanparts forums)

Classic styling :laugh:


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Roland,
That is not a bad idea. I'll have to see how much give the vinyl has after heat is applied. The part I made has some rather complex shape. I agree carpet would make it look HUGE, doing it in any black material would exaggerate its size quite a bit I would think. Just the fact that the grill and ring are black is bad enough. Perhaps, the perf material that will be used in the centers of the seat would not be a bad idea either. The perf in the material may make it conform easier as well. hmmm..Along with doing the dash center as you showed. I do like that look. thanks for reminding me of that car!


----------



## cirodias

OMG!

what a car and equips!

Very very nice!

old school is the way!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I've got a bit of an update.

I decided to utilize the stock door pocket as part of the door pods for my 8" midbass. I thought this was the best way to ensure both panels are as close to alike as possible. First I mocked up both panels the same with rings and battens to space the rings off the door card. Pretty standard stuff


















A bit hard to see in these photo's but the pocket lip which is what mates the pocket to the car is badly warped. Expected from a 20 year old car. My plan is to use some marine mahogany ply that I have, make a lip to attach it from the front. This will build it out some. Most important is for it to be flat because these pockets will be glassed and painted. Its very critical to me anyway that this looks perfect, as if it were part of the body of the car.


















Lastly, this is the pass side full mock up. I think the shape is fine, I will refine the edge closest to the handle. I think it would look best if I match that handle angle, that also matches up with the stitching on the card. What I was really wanting to see is how well it would look if built all the way to the door pull that opens the door. I shaped the foam with a relief to get your finger under that pull. It works really well but I just don't think the look is all that well. I'm thinking I'll also move the window switch to this part of the panel to clean the look up some.








This is pretty close to as far as I want to step it off the card. If anything I will trim it down just a bit. I don't want it to be any farther off than the arm rest shown.









So, my next step I think I am going to build out the drivers door with the above design in mind and compare the two. Making all this out of foam its very easy to add and remove. If I like that look I will shave some off the pass side and glass them both. I'll cut the glass work off the rings and pocket, dig out the foam, glass them back together. START FAIRING.....

KEEP PLUGGIN ALONG................................


----------



## CA4944

Will that leave your hand enough room to grab the door handle? What about your poor passengers, as they hold on for dear life?  Just kidding, but I did recently have to re-attach my passenger door handle because a passenger almost pulled it out on track!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Charlie,

Good to see your still with me here....

I do get your point. Most of my passengers aren't brave enough to ride with me when my foot has an itch! However, my 72yo dad I keep it rather tame for him. Oddly enough; and I tried this.. When your on that side you don't even notice where the pod starts and ends near the handle. Its much like the kicks I made they are so far out of your way you don't know they are in the car. What I have now is just a bit larger than the C2's and C4's. All that just the same I do think it would look better if I cut it so that the angle matches the stitching. 

I thought with that fabric one would be able to tell the contour of the panel better but I see in the pics its far worse. The way I shaved two little finger holes to grab the door open handle is pretty natural. Again, when I reshape the panel this will all go away and will look even more like the C2 and 4. 

I'm VERY glad I didn't start glassing. The more I look at the panel the less I like the shape...............


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

Looking good, bro! I think it looks fine, but if you must reshape, reshape away. I'm picking up new ideas here and there, since I may be rebuilding the door panels in my '89 Sentra before to long. Different class of car, but same era.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

TJ Mobile Audio said:


> door panels in my '89 Sentra before to long. Different class of car, but same era.



AAAAAAAAAAAAAHHH a door card is a door card is a door card! Doesn't matter what its it. Or as my Pop would say a turd is still a turd no matter how you shine it. Not callin your Sentra a turd, I'm just sayin..... AAH HELL I'LL SHUT UP NOW


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

FLYONWALL9 said:


> AAAAAAAAAAAAAHHH a door card is a door card is a door card! Doesn't matter what its it. Or as my Pop would say a turd is still a turd no matter how you shine it. Not callin your Sentra a turd, I'm just sayin..... AAH HELL I'LL SHUT UP NOW


Well I do keep it around for a reason, it runs like a scalded dog! And yeah, very similar construction, complete with 1/8" masonite...


----------



## FLYONWALL9

TJ Mobile Audio said:


> I'm picking up new ideas here and there, .


I don't know how, but I missed this the first time. Oh wait, I know how I missed it, I'm on dope. Here is the irony, your picking up ideas from a guy who spends better than 14hrs per day on pills:laugh:


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

FLYONWALL9 said:


> I don't know how, but I missed this the first time. Oh wait, I know how I missed it, I'm on dope. Here is the irony, your picking up ideas from a guy who spends better than 14hrs per day on pills:laugh:


Maybe that's why you're so full of ideas, LOL. Just seeing your door panels come together is getting me motivated to redo the front stage in my car, but...

I've got a build to finish in the truck, I'm working 50 hour weeks, and by the time I finish the truck it will be the dead of winter. So basically, you're giving me ideas for next spring, unless I get a crazy streak and fire up the shop heaters.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

TJ Mobile Audio said:


> by the time I finish the truck it will be the dead of winter. So basically, you're giving me ideas for next spring, unless I get a crazy streak and fire up the shop heaters.



*So, what your saying iswe will be finished about the same time*

and by finished I mean your Sentra not your truck...


----------



## bfb1963

I just started a build on my 92 Turbo. After I pulled up all the carpet and underlayment I found I had water leaking in from the front firewall. 

Ripping out all the carpet (all 20 pieces of it or so) is a royal pain. I am in the process of stripping all the old glue and then do a lot of acoustic control. More of a job than I thought it would be. 

Good luck with your project.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

bfb1963 said:


> I just started a build on my 92 Turbo. After I pulled up all the carpet and underlayment I found I had water leaking in from the front firewall.
> 
> Ripping out all the carpet (all 20 pieces of it or so) is a royal pain. I am in the process of stripping all the old glue and then do a lot of acoustic control. More of a job than I thought it would be.
> 
> Good luck with your project.


THANKS...

CHECK your evap drain line, mine was doing the very same. Unless you have had a windshield 
done recently. Fresh air box can be a royal pain also with water leaks


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

FLYONWALL9 said:


> *So, what your saying iswe will be finished about the same time*
> 
> and by finished I mean your Sentra not your truck...


Basically, LOL. Although there is no definite start date for the Sentra, and I haven't even defined the project. It's just a twinkle in my mind's eye...


----------



## howlndog

Fellow 911 owner, here ... subscribed


----------



## FLYONWALL9

This update is mostly a supply update. With feedback and reviews from various board members I purchased my TechFlex from the one and only FURRYFEATHERS. A man of few words with a great product. Out of all the colors and sizes I needed he was only missing 2 so those will have to be sourced from PartsExpress or others. 

This is also meant to be an observation and sharing information of one of the colors I ordered. Neon Red is not as the name implies, it is more of a Neon Orange. I expected it to be a bright yellow like the Neon Yellow is which is in the same order. So, I'm tempted to reorder standard red or find a very bright red wire to aid it to more of a red color. 

So, with the arrival of those parts I will be able to do work while sitting cozy at my desk. If I were able to build the rest of my system this way I would be done or close by now. 

Those of you with P-Cars may see the pattern I'm going in with the colors of TechFlex. The use of these will be in a very unique way, one of the very first design features that I thought up when I was first dreaming up all this madness. The big question is if I will be able to build what I have envisioned. Way back in the start of this process I tried to explain his to NINEBALL and it didn't take long for him to be lost in my description. Its one of those things that a picture is worth a thousand words. With that, I'll start building that design element as soon as I'm done with the doors. I SOOOOO wish I could just drop the doors off with someone and pick them up completed. As it stands I've got about 100 hours left in that part of the build, its not getting done just sitting on my shop bench.

*AS ALWAYS THANKS EVERYONE WHO IS FOLLOWING THIS FOR YOUR CONTENUED PATIENCE WITH MY LACK OF PROGRESS. ALSO FOR YOUR SUPPORT AND ENCOURAGEMENT, IT ALL HELPS ME GREATLY AND IS MUCH APPRECIATED.*

I wont bore you guys/gals with pics of the TechFlex, wire ties, and so on. When I build the cables it will give away the design idea of this part of the build. I really like the intrikit parts of builds and I'm looking forward to it. The bad news is I am missing *1* RCA ends that are no longer in production. So, I am going to need to find something that is close in looks and try and install it in a place where it wont be noticed.


----------



## Wesayso

Just keep at it, no hurry. Make some progress every week and you will get there.
I can't wait to see the finished doors. I still need to change my door pockets for obvious reasons. I have no idea what to do yet. So I'll be following your doors developement closely .


----------



## SSCustoms

FLYONWALL9 said:


> The bad news is I am missing *1* RCA ends that are no longer in production. So, I am going to need to find something that is close in looks and try and install it in a place where it wont be noticed.


What ends are you needing? Are you still planning on using PG ends? I still have new PG, Streetwire and Stinger ends in the shop.


----------



## willtel

Great job on your Carrera install! These cars are tiny on the inside and can be challenging to figure out where to mount everything.

Have you considered using 911 RS fabric door pulls to replace your factory door paddles? Going that route may give you some more flexibility in the design.









On my turbo I was able to use the factory speaker wires as a pull cord to fish new speaker wires back from the door into the passenger compartment. I made sure the lube the wires before I started pulling them but it went pretty well. Some of the details of my (less involved) build are here if it helps.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-member-build-logs/54208-got-started-my-930-install.html


----------



## FLYONWALL9

SSCustoms said:


> What ends are you needing? Are you still planning on using PG ends? I still have new PG, Streetwire and Stinger ends in the shop.


SORRY this took me so long to reply.

yes, they are PG ends. I would have to get you a picture because I have no clue what the mod number is. A short discrip is black chrome barrels with gold ends. They were a bit rare back in the day but it would be OUTSTANDING if you had them!

THANKS for the reply!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

willtel said:


> Great job on your Carrera install! These cars are tiny on the inside and can be challenging to figure out where to mount everything.
> 
> Have you considered using 911 RS fabric door pulls to replace your factory door paddles? Going that route may give you some more flexibility in the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my turbo I was able to use the factory speaker wires as a pull cord to fish new speaker wires back from the door into the passenger compartment. I made sure the lube the wires before I started pulling them but it went pretty well. Some of the details of my (less involved) build are here if it helps.
> 
> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-member-build-logs/54208-got-started-my-930-install.html



The car will be getting RSR rear end with GT lights later down the line along with 11" rear wheels. I'm really not that big on the pull handles, kind of a joke if you ask me. You've had yours off, the parts that make up that door pocket at the most weigh 4lbs each. Like 'Clarkson' on TopGear says pay more to get WAY LESS.....

The odd bit is getting an 8 where you put your single point source drivers. The trick as you know is to do it in a way as to not screw up the car. So, like your install I am building out the front so that I can use the factory hole. They will be installed in such a way as to not even add screw holes. The hard part to me is finding someone that can match 'LOBSTER' I was trying to find a GrandPrix White with CANCAN or LOBSTER when I was buying but I couldn't pass up the deal I got. 10k is VERY hard to beat for one of these cars, so I may even be able to make money on this one if need be.

I do like your build. As you saw all the gear I'm stuffing in this thing I've built this car in my mind for over a year. To be able to do this in such a way as to not offend the P-CAR world and with the idea that if Ruff were to do audio how would it look? When done the rear will look very much like an RS with a seat delete. Molded trim pieces paint matched or carbon, cant decide yet, but you wouldn't look in it and say this thing has a system. You would just wonder if it were some sort of 'tuners' build.

Again, good job with your install thanks for the visit. I REALLY do need all the egging on I can get!

OH, was one of your car pics taken at Barber Motorsports Park?


----------



## FLYONWALL9

So, I've been trying to do bits that need doing when I can. Started building
my RCA's. I forgot how fun and relaxing it was, best described like tying 
fishing flies. I don't know if anyone has tried this but using a fly vise makes
the job SOOOO easy. Once the end is locked in you can rotate, spin, put
the end in any angle you wish. You can pick up a really cheap one from 
some WalMart stores, Bass Pro, Academy Sports, Scientific Angler is a
good starter vise.

Anyway, no need for me to show my poor soldering skills on the inside
but this is how they turned out. 

*SSCUSTOMS,*
*I REALLY HOPE you have some of these, it would really SAVE MY ASS!
I have no idea what model they are, due to the age of the packing it faded
off the label.*

Kind of hard to get pics of these things, I'll try again during the day that may 
help.


----------



## SSCustoms

FLYONWALL9 said:


> *SSCUSTOMS,*
> *I REALLY HOPE you have some of these, it would really SAVE MY ASS!
> I have no idea what model they are, due to the age of the packing it faded
> off the label.*


Those look like Pro series. I might actually have a set or two. My shop is closed tomorrow for Turkey Day, but I will check for you on Friday.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

SSCustoms said:


> Those look like Pro series. I might actually have a set or two. My shop is closed tomorrow for Turkey Day, but I will check for you on Friday.


They could be, we are talking maybe 15 years ago when I got them.....
It would be WONDERFUL if you had some, heck I would even settle for
some that look like them, I could plug those in on the bottom of my X1
so you wont really see the 'PHOENIX GOLD' sticker. Ya know?

Are you a Phoenix dealer? If so, you think they may have some in a
stash?

It is very hard to see the true color in the last two pics, that first one
is the best I could get. Gunmetal with gold tips is the best I could discribe.


----------



## veleno

I wish I had seen this build earlier, I could've pointed you to this site to see what they've done (for reference at least):

SpeakerWorks/USD Audio Install Gallery

I quickly read and skimmed through the threads but didn't see which sub(s) you chose to go with. Did you pick one? If not, you might want to look into a Falstaff sub as they are great for SQ and are shallow mount. I have a single 10" in a tight cabin like yours and the sound is amazing to say the least.

I've always wanted a 911, especially after watching that 90's movie with corey haim/feldman with the blue 911. Currently I've had my eye on a local 2005 Turbo model after watching "supercars" where they had a modified one kickin ass!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

veleno said:


> I wish I had seen this build earlier, I could've pointed you to this site to see what they've done (for reference at least):
> 
> SpeakerWorks/USD Audio Install Gallery
> 
> I quickly read and skimmed through the threads but didn't see which sub(s) you chose to go with. Did you pick one? If not, you might want to look into a Falstaff sub as they are great for SQ and are shallow mount. I have a single 10" in a tight cabin like yours and the sound is amazing to say the least.



Yeah I've seen that link. Actually, they 'UPDATED' it and took off all the really
good cars that 'fish' did. He had a late 70s early 80s 911 the was un freaking 
real. BUT the wont send me pictures or put it back on the site. They took down LOADS of great pics from all types of cars. I really wish they hadn't taken down that 911 though it is exactly what I want to build.

I did settle on subs, I have two new in the box OZ Audio 10's with the superman logo. They will go where the seat bottoms are fired up rather than towards the seat back like so many other 911's. I have looked at the Falstaff stuff though and like it. However, everything aside from the wire that is going into this install is from the late 80's and early 90's. Trying to keep it all in the same era.

Happy Turkey Day!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

SSCustoms said:


> Those look like Pro series. I might actually have a set or two. My shop is closed tomorrow for Turkey Day, but I will check for you on Friday.



SSCustoms,

I haven't wanted to bug you about this, but were you able to
see if you had any of these at the shop? In a box, dust bin, catch
all drawer? Condition isn't all that important, like I said I can put
them on the bottom run of my XES-X1 so you wont them all that
well. 

THANKS again for your help, have a blessed rest of the week
SCOTT


----------



## bfb1963

Did you put in an alarm? Any details on installing it? I'm in the middle of my 92 Turbo install.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

bfb1963 said:


> Did you put in an alarm? Any details on installing it? I'm in the middle of my 92 Turbo install.



NO, not yet. I am, have been, trying to find an OLD SCHOOL
two button CODE Alarm. I had one on my CRX that NEVER had
a single issue. So, I've been on the search for one of those. 
Again, it was from the early 90's like all the rest of the gear
going into into the car.

However, these cars are VERY easy to install an alarm in. If
your having issues with the wire part of it I suggest going to
an alarm web site and download the dagrams.


----------



## SSCustoms

FLYONWALL9 said:


> SSCustoms,
> 
> I haven't wanted to bug you about this, but were you able to
> see if you had any of these at the shop? In a box, dust bin, catch
> all drawer? Condition isn't all that important, like I said I can put
> them on the bottom run of my XES-X1 so you wont them all that
> well.
> 
> THANKS again for your help, have a blessed rest of the week
> SCOTT


Damn, I'm sorry! I had completely forgot! 

I just took a look and the ones I have appear to be the same shape, however, they are gold top and bottom. I have two sets, if you think they would be okay.


----------



## SSCustoms

FLYONWALL9 said:


> NO, not yet. I am, have been, trying to find an OLD SCHOOL
> two button CODE Alarm. I had one on my CRX that NEVER had
> a single issue. So, I've been on the search for one of those.
> Again, it was from the early 90's like all the rest of the gear
> going into into the car.


I just threw out a box several months ago that had a basic Code Alarm system with some two button remotes.


----------



## SSCustoms

Are these the ones you have?


----------



## FLYONWALL9

SSCustoms said:


> Are these the ones you have?



No, the ones I have don't taper like that on the wire side. Mine
are more straight. Those could work IF I cannot find the exact
ones I have. Those also look a bit longer than the ones I have.
Also, mine has sort of a grip type groove to tighten them down.

Any chance of a larger picture? I cant get that one to blow up
any. I have seen those in generic form with no Phoenix Gold 
sticker on them. I'm also wondering how long those are. The
way they will be mounted the ones I have are the MAX length.

THANKS FOR LOOKING OUT FOR ME!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

SSCustoms said:


> I just threw out a box several months ago that had a basic Code Alarm system with some two button remotes.



THAT my friend is how my luck goes. IF you happen to come 
across a brain and pair of remotes put my name on it. No need
for a siren, I'll use my horn and a pair of other siren one in the 
front and rear.


----------



## Wesayso

Any updates?


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> Any updates?


Sorry its taken me so long to reply. 

Also, sorry to say no updates. I've been sick and in bed for the past month and a half. Its really depressing! I so want to stop rubbing on these amps and put them in the car to listen to, along with all the other great gear I've collected. I did go today and tune my buddies Lexus with an MS-8. That thing sounds great but honestly do not see what all the hype is about. It lacks so much in adjustability, or perhaps I need to play with it more. I was dumbfounded that you could not adjust each channel output, or even figure out how to manually adjust the TA without the headphone or whatever...... I expected more from it lets just say..... It did give me the bug to want to hear mine even more!!!! That and show him just how much adjustment my 20yo ES has..............

How about your install, any new news?

AND THANKS FOR CHECKING IN ON ME!


----------



## Wesayso

Sorry to hear that! Any sign of improvement? Hope you get back on your feet soon. So now you have hands on experience with the MS-8. I don't think that thing was made for the majority on here . The main point would be to get great sound and leave it like that. We tend to get great sound after spending hours of tuning and mess it up again so we can start over again.
I've bought a new (used) amp for my tweeters, a Genesis Series III Stereo 60 to get rid of my problem with the Esses. Haven't mounted it yet but managed to improve the sound by time alignment and it's way better allready.
Maybe I just need to use the small chamber on my Space one tweeters, it changes the FS from 900 to 1300 Hz. I have the crossover at 4K on them right now so that should be no problem. My problem aerea seems to be at or arround 7K and that is a multiple of the 900 Hz FS. (900 x2= 1800, 1800 x2=3600, 3600 x2=7200, could it be that simple?)
The problem with that is I have not found a way yet to mount them with the small chamber as I'm using the large chamber for mounting. Maybe I'll just get a friend of mine make new chambers from aluminium with the large chamber outside dimensions and the small chambers inside. But I'm not sure if my reasoning is solid, but it couldn't hurt to try?

Get well and on your feet soon, take care!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> Sorry to hear that! Any sign of improvement? Hope you get back on your feet soon. So now you have hands on experience with the MS-8. I don't think that thing was made for the majority on here . The main point would be to get great sound and leave it like that. We tend to get great sound after spending hours of tuning and mess it up again so we can start over again.
> I've bought a new (used) amp for my tweeters, a Genesis Series III Stereo 60 to get rid of my problem with the Esses. Haven't mounted it yet but managed to improve the sound by time alignment and it's way better allready.
> Maybe I just need to use the small chamber on my Space one tweeters, it changes the FS from 900 to 1300 Hz. I have the crossover at 4K on them right now so that should be no problem. My problem aerea seems to be at or arround 7K and that is a multiple of the 900 Hz FS. (900 x2= 1800, 1800 x2=3600, 3600 x2=7200, could it be that simple?)
> The problem with that is I have not found a way yet to mount them with the small chamber as I'm using the large chamber for mounting. Maybe I'll just get a friend of mine make new chambers from aluminium with the large chamber outside dimensions and the small chambers inside. But I'm not sure if my reasoning is solid, but it couldn't hurt to try?
> 
> Get well and on your feet soon, take care!


NO worries with the sickness, its been like this for the past
5 years of my freaking life. I'm bout used to it, but it does
still REALLY SUCK! Thanks for the well wishes just the same.

I had a real feeling that your issue was with the amp you 
had on your tweeters. Is 4k too high for your tweets? It
seems a bit sporty then again I cant recall at this time
what you were running for tweets. 

No doubt the MS-8 isn't something I would ever buy myself.
I think that its best attributes is the ease of using it with a 
factory HU. I'm going to play with it more to see if one cant
tune the TA better. Its just all together DUMB using a mic 
or headset to set that part up, BUT that is just what my
buddy said. I haven't really gotten to really 'MESS' with it
yet. 

Listening to and adjusting on his gear really did give me the bug.
I want to get out and get going again on mine. He still finds it 
hard to understand and believe what one can do with the oldschool
ES stuff vs all this 'NEW' currently made stuff.


----------



## trojan fan

I think your install had you all spun-out. Step back, refocus.... Less is more


----------



## FLYONWALL9

trojan fan said:


> I think your install had you all spun-out. Step back, refocus.... Less is more


I don't understand this statement?


----------



## trojan fan

Really....ok


----------



## trojan fan

Good luck on your install. hope it all comes together for you


----------



## FLYONWALL9

trojan fan said:


> Good luck on your install. hope it all comes together for you


Honestly I don't understand your statement, I wasn't being a smartass. I don't know what your trying to say?

All spun out? Does that mean more than I can take on or do? If so, perhaps but after I became disabled I tend to take on large challenges to gain a sense of self worth. I was asked that very thing when I took on building a boat shortly after my accident, and didn't let that stop me. 

This is a car that I have always wanted, with gear I always wanted and never could afford.

So, if you would take the time. What do you mean by your statement?


----------



## trojan fan

Bingo...now let's move on.


----------



## Jh8909

trojan fan said:


> Bingo...now let's move on.


why do you have to constantly be so vague? he just wants you to explain what you meant in more sentences than *one*.


----------



## howlndog

Fly... and updates?


----------



## FLYONWALL9

howlndog said:


> Fly... and updates?


Sorry to say NO... I've been having to deal with the expense
of a leaking Targa top. So many parts to rebuild and or fix and
all are very costly. I'm looking into doing a carbon Targa top 
over the very complex factory top rebuild. If you happen to find
a carbon or fiberglass top within your circles at a good price
throw it my way. I hate to go the route of the 500 buck ebay
unit, but I could mod it to work as a factory top I'm sure.....

Thanks for asking about the build.

Any updates on your end?


----------



## howlndog

I'll ask around about a targa top and let you know if anything turns up.

Not much has happened this winter except for stockpiling of parts. The engine's pulled so as soon as it's warm enough I'll attack a bunch of pesky oil leaks and install a set of carerra oil fed tensioners. The engine currently has solid tensioners that would never fail, but they are a pain to adjust every few months. A general clean-up is also in order.

As far as the audio goes.... the interior is strippped so I'll start laying down the Brown Bread and LComp (B-Quiet) first.... and move forward from there.

Stay well.


----------



## Wesayso

I'll stirr this thread up a little...
What are you guys planning to do about deadening the doors? I know Fly is experimenting with the outside enclosures but using the doors as well...
For now I have an extra mat inside the door behind the woofer and not much more except the original damping mat from Porsche. I plan to add more mat on the outer skin because my mirrors shake quite a bit .
For the inner skin I'm still not certain if I should cover all the inspection holes.
I plan to glue a sheet of MLV to the entire door card. It goes a bit against my rules not to add to much weight though. But I figured if I use the MLV in the exact same shape as the door card all the bigger openings will be sealed off from the interior. With CCF strip where possible to decouple but it would get thick quite fast.

I found this MLV like acoustic rubber sheet: Merford acousticshop
8 KG/m2 with just 3.2mm thickness. That translates to about 1.6 lbs/ft2!
I bought 4 plates 0.5m x 1m, very flexible. Plan on using one on each door card and the other 2 to make a barrier at the engine firewall and across the gearbox access plate in the tunnel behind the seats. That's allready 16 KG right there 
I also got some extra mat to apply to the doors, front trunk and maybe firewall (not to sure if it should be used there with the heat? It is butyl based though) and front floor.
No more than 25% coverage though.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> I'll stirr this thread up a little...
> What are you guys planning to do about deadening the doors? I know Fly is experimenting with the outside enclosures but using the doors as well...
> For now I have an extra mat inside the door behind the woofer and not much more except the original damping mat from Porsche. I plan to add more mat on the outer skin because my mirrors shake quite a bit .
> For the inner skin I'm still not certain if I should cover all the inspection holes.
> I plan to glue a sheet of MLV to the entire door card. It goes a bit against my rules not to add to much weight though. But I figured if I use the MLV in the exact same shape as the door card all the bigger openings will be sealed off from the interior. With CCF strip where possible to decouple but it would get thick quite fast..




Wesayso,
Glad to see your still scubscribed to my thread also....

What I did to my doors was install tiles on the outside skin through the large holes on the inside. I then coated damn near the entire door behind the card. I will then install 1/8" CCF the door card and 1/8CCF on the door card itself. I'm going to put a vinyl cover on the card much like the factory but I may not have it sewn like the factory one. The reason for that is the way I am going to have to mount the door pocket and 8" woofer will be one panel. That kind of throws off those sewn in angle pieces. I may make some sort of panel to go in place of that sewn part kind of like you see in the 997. In other words the card will look more molded rather than a flat piece of door card like the orig 911 panel.

Now, the sound deadening if your able to add more to that outside skin you will do yourself a world of good. Also get some butyl rope and stuff it behind that bar in the door and the door skin. This will help reduce your mirror shake.

My pass door is the only one that is complete now and I can tell you its as solid as a rock. You can 100% tell the difference in just shutting the door! And I have yet to put the CCF and door cards on...... I think its going to stiffen up even more once I attach my door pockets with the 8" enclosure attached. 

In your case I think you still have your speakers screwed through the door card directly into the inside door panel? You may can add some CCF behind your speaker to give it some cush and ease some of that mirror shake as well.


----------



## howlndog

When I first got my car I had a vision to strip it down of all useless things. So, over the course of a few years all sound factory deadening was stripped out, including the thick foam piece at the firewall / rear seats. The radio was deleted which hole was promptly fitted with a volt and cylinder head temp gauges, light-weight carpets installed... etc. etc. - I had become a convert to the Church of Flatsix is Music.... the thrill of which lasted for about 2 months. My kids would no longer drive with me (without wearing ear plugs).... and my wife wouldn't even get in the car. A lonely, music-less man was I.

The new plan is to deaden the heck out of it.... space-age products wherever they will fit! Yes the weight is an issue.... but if I was truly serious about it, I'd use the stairmaster and shed 30lbs (13.6kg) myself. I can't wait to get tunes back in the car.

I can't wait to see how your car turns out, Fly.


----------



## kenikh

Wesayso said:


> Might I suggest to wrap the doorpods in something similar to the part on the top of the door and the original arm rests? The carpet thing might make the pods seem huge. The whole dash it connects to is wrapped in black vinyl as well and it would stand out from the red door card.
> You could add some red details to the dash, kind of like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (photo borrowed from cnielsen, pelicanparts forums)
> 
> Classic styling :laugh:


LOL - Chris would scream bloody murder if he knew his car was being featured on a car audio site.  His opinion is that the only music that belongs in an early 911 should come from the engine and exhaust. I'll fwd him this thread. 

Fortunately, I am not in his camp and once I finish my Forester, I will begin a fresh install very similar to this one in my '65 911, then eventually for my '69 911S. Nice to see some quality 911 work on the site.


----------



## Wesayso

howlndog said:


> When I first got my car I had a vision to strip it down of all useless things. So, over the course of a few years all sound factory deadening was stripped out, including the thick foam piece at the firewall / rear seats. The radio was deleted which hole was promptly fitted with a volt and cylinder head temp gauges, light-weight carpets installed... etc. etc. - I had become a convert to the Church of Flatsix is Music.... the thrill of which lasted for about 2 months. My kids would no longer drive with me (without wearing ear plugs).... and my wife wouldn't even get in the car. A lonely, music-less man was I.
> 
> The new plan is to deaden the heck out of it.... space-age products wherever they will fit! Yes the weight is an issue.... but if I was truly serious about it, I'd use the stairmaster and shed 30lbs (13.6kg) myself. I can't wait to get tunes back in the car.
> 
> I can't wait to see how your car turns out, Fly.


I laughed out loud when I read your responce. Right before I bought the 911 to use as a daily driver I almost boughed a full out race car for my daily trip to work. It was a '70 VW Beetle, fully stripped, welded trough body and pan, roll cage, aluminium dash, one bucked seat and type IV engine. Everyone warned me it was a loud, make that very loud, car. All I could think was: COOL! That thing was barely road legal. I'm glad I didn't


----------



## Wesayso

kenikh said:


> LOL - Chris would scream bloody murder if he knew his car was being featured on a car audio site.  His opinion is that the only music that belongs in an early 911 should come from the engine and exhaust. I'll fwd him this thread.
> 
> Fortunately, I am not in his camp and once I finish my Forester, I will begin a fresh install very similar to this one in my '65 911, then eventually for my '69 911S. Nice to see some quality 911 work on the site.


Oops 
I know most on Pelican are in the radio delete camp. For a few years I didn't mind and I was planning to strip every thing to lose weight and backdate to pre '73. I'll still do the backdate someday but I wouldn't want to miss the tunes anymore! 
Fly, I can't wait to see you back on track. I hope you sort out that roof problem soon so you can move on with the audio build.


----------



## bfb1963

My 92 Turbo is loud as hell. It is far from stock. No amount of sound deadening is going keep me from hearing the thing scream. I did CCF, MLV, and CLD. If only I could deaden the rear window.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

bfb1963 said:


> My 92 Turbo is loud as hell. It is far from stock. No amount of sound deadening is going keep me from hearing the thing scream. I did CCF, MLV, and CLD. If only I could deaden the rear window.


GOOD TO KNOW!!

Wondering, did you also put in a new engine compartment firewall cover? I've seen some really nice ones sold but I just don't know if they would be worth the 80-150 bones. They would clean up the look on that firewall but is it really worth it???


----------



## Wesayso

I did a new engine compartment firewall cover. It really helps. Last year I had the engine out, before that I drove for 3 years without that cover. I ripped out the old one when I bought the car. It was all used up. It's a sort of CCF cover I think but it does work for the higher pitches.


----------



## bfb1963

I'm the wrong one to ask. My Turbo is highly modified and even my office knows when I get to work.

That being said, unless you pull the engine, the cover can't be put in my engine bay. 

FWIW, I did CLD/CCF/MLV/CCF/MLV on the entire rear firewall. CLD/CCF/MLV everywhere else.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

A bit of an update. 
I received my pair of 993 door handles to replace my 911 handles that just looked WAY out of place with my 8" door speaker install. My hope is to be able to get somewhat of the same look at the 993's that had 3 way fronts with pocket delete. If you look back at my photo's you will see that those 911 handles just look ugly IMHO. Now, I just have to figure out what colors I should use. My plan was to use 'LOBSTER' but that material is way too costly for my budget. I know I want to paint the pocket to match the car, silver. The top trim is black along with the dash. So, I'm thinking either to go back all black or go with the factory gray. I do like the look of the gray, it to me is another classy color with silver.

Here you can see the shape of the new handles and pocket delete. My pocket shape will differ from this slightly due to the speaker size but it will be close to this. 









Here you can see how clean the look is with this color. Also doing this will eliminate my having 3 interior colors. Black, LOBSTER (RED), Gray. To bring more of the painted look into the car and not just have gray panted pockets, When I build my center console to adapt a sequential shifter, I'll paint most of that as well as some of the rear of the car around the amp rack and sub enclosure.









Lastly, I placed an order for my 1/8" CCF from RAAMaudio for my doors. I'll use it in place of the plastic, also it will be used before I cover all my panels with vinyl/leather. I have 1/4" CCF that will be used over my MLV. I'm REALLY looking forward to getting at least the CCF on the doors after riding around with no skin at all on them for what seems to be FOREVER!

I hope to really make a dint in some of this stuff this week dispite of my feeling like complete ****!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

EXAMPLES OF RED INT. Every time I look at these I want to go in this direction but damn, why does it have to cost sooooo freaking much?
NOTE THE DOOR HANDLES IN THIS PHOTO I went from this









AGAIN NOTE THE DOOR HANDLES








I would love to put some GT2/3 seats abut at a cost from 3 to 6k I think not
I'm wondering if I can make solid seat backs look good on standard seats..........


----------



## ryomanx

glad to an update on this build


----------



## CA4944

I actually have a pair of heated hard back 996 sport seats for sale, adapted to fit earlier cars.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

*HEY GANG,* 
I know this isn't an update on the car but ANY of you guys that are into this stuff are also into a great shop and the tools that we acquire along the way. I know this post is long, any of you that follow my threads know when I have had my med's I tend to be chatty, especially when I am excited about something like this, and wanted to share in that. The sheer vastness of stuff I've picked up along with the prices I've been able to find this stuff for is/was very exciting to me. I'm sure if any of you guys have found all this would likely have a post much like this on your thread. TOOLS, its the only other thing that we really get into when doing any of our projects. So, I got all this stuff and was really excited about it all and wanted to share. Maybe once I have it all cleaned up and have room enough in my shop to lay it out and shoot a photo I will. It was all acquired within the last month, give or take a few weeks.

I know I've had questions about some of the tools that I've found for great prices, off the top of my head someone asked about a plunge router I've found. I'm now router poor 3 so far  the one router that I really want to get is a small palm size laminate router. They are great for small jobs, and well, are just really cool. The last tool I want to find again (I used my last so much I burned it up) is a very small 3" blade or so. If you have used one you will surely have it on your list! They are great!! Able to cut ply or hard woods without any checking whatsoever, and go through woods like a razor through warm butter

OK even though I have not been able to make a great deal of progress on the car I have been hard at it. I've been getting my shop ready for serious work and also gathering proper tools, most important was getting a REAL tool box. Nearly all of this stuff was purchased at a Flea Market and or Estate Sales. You would not believe what I paid for some of this stuff. Below is a list of the goodies what my recent goods of the larger items, several things that aren't on the list but that I also picked up are:

A large box of miscellaneous drill bits, no less than 120, perhaps even more. The guy just had one of those single handle top trays that you find in a hand tool box **** full of bits, some had surface rust others were hardly used, so I have been cleaning them up before putting the in my new tool box. Cost 5 bucks!!!

I haven't picked them up yet, but I ran across a widow of a cabinet maker, though I got a few things from her; the most exciting was what I can only call a GROSS of router bits. I say gross because this was literally BOXES of both brand new and once used bits of various types. You name it, if was made he had one if not 5 of each. He stored them in those hard Plano tackle trays. I'm talking about 20 or so trays! Once my Pop goes through them and takes out what he needs or wants I'll be left with the rest, prolly 1/2 or 3/4's of the rest of them. ................................. 25 bucks!!!!

I also got a really neat home made block that has like 15 die grinder shaping bits (looks like oversized bits a dentist uses. They are used to shape fiberglass, another killer deal at 3 bucks!

Any fiberglass user know how many laminate rollers you can go through even if you clean and stay on top of cleaning out the groves. The one guy had a BOX of rollers along with the 3" painting rollers that we use to apply resin on parts and mat. No less than 8 laminate rollers and 5 or more 3" paint rollers, 2 bucks!!

DON'T KNOW HOW TO POST DIRECT LINKS, SO YOU'LL HAVE TO COPY AND PASTE, IF THE LINKS DON'T WORK
41" Remline REM17710 (Now I can get my tools out of my Air Force tool pouch/bag and clean off my bench!
Amazon.com: Remline (REM17710) 10 Drawer Extra Deep 41" XQL Top Chest - Red: Home Improvement

Ryobi 3hp variable speed 1/2" collet plunge router like new, looks like it has only been used a hand full of times. 25 bucks I couldn't find the exact model but this one looks close but not quite as nice
RYOBI 2 HP Peak EVS Plunge Router RE180PL | eBay

A pair of Craftsman routers one with a table that is used 12 bucks, another just like it for 18 bucks that has never been used and is still in the box! The table isn't anything overly impressive but its nice
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=350475643691

Delta 1" belt 8" disc sander, used but hey its a delta works like new only 65 bucks. Exactly like this one minus the stand
Delta 8" Disc And Belt Sander W/Table | eBay

Ryobi 16" scroll variable saw w/ blade blower. Thin surface rust, scotch-brite pad and it will look like new again. 25 bucks
Ryobi 16" SCROLL SAW Variable Speed SC164VS FACTORY NEW | eBay

Ryobi 12" drill press (nothing all that special but still very good and HEAVY!) In better shape than this one 35 bucks.
Ryobi DP120 12

Ryobi table saw just like this one but mine sat outside for a year or so b4 I got it, still works perfect. Just a bit of elbow grease, Ospho, and Scotch-Brite pad and it'll look new 65 bucks. My plunge router bolts up to the table so you can use the fence. It also does all sorts of angles and so forth. A cool deal, once you get it set up proper.
RYOBI BT3000 TABLE SAW LIGHTLY USED | eBay

I don't know the model but I also picked up a 4" Ryobi hand planer.It is kind of like the one below. I do have a 13 or so inch larger style table planer that is a family type deal when anyone has a project and needs something larger, that we swap around.
Ryobi Power Tools :: 3-1/4" Hand Planer Kit 

Pancake compressor brand new never used (cant remember what brand it is off hand) only 35 bucks. I got this because my shop is too far from my car work area to drag down the large compressor. Also, it will work great for spraying glue (what I really got it for)

Lastly, various sanders, Porter-Cable random orbit, Porter-Cable belt, side grinder, and dye grider, side grinder/cutter, chop saw, jig saw, drills, pneumatic staple and nail gun. I know I am forgetting something. lol

I think I made out like a scout on a new route. I HATE nothing more than to start working on a project and not have the proper tool! I highly suggest if you live in a military town or large town, visit the flea market and scan the papers for Estate sales! Now its time to fill up that tool box! FUN TIMES

THANKS for bearing though this long post and sharing in my excitement. I know its not a car update, but without all these goodies the job wouldn't be as easy as it could.... If anyone is of interest I'll shoot you a photo or more.

Hope you all have a FUN, productive, and blessed weekend!
Scott


----------



## trojan fan

I think you would have better luck posting this stuff in the classified section


----------



## FLYONWALL9

trojan fan said:


> I think you would have better luck posting this stuff in the classified section


I think you misunderstood...

This is stuff I got for my shop and install, not stuff I'm trying to sell. MAN TOYS MAN


----------



## CA4944

Scott, that is an awesome pile of new stuff! I can't believe the router bits!

I'm busy building a garage, so I haven't touched my car in over a month, but I'll be back, too...


----------



## FLYONWALL9

CA4944 said:


> Scott, that is an awesome pile of new stuff! I can't believe the router bits!
> 
> I'm busy building a garage, so I haven't touched my car in over a month, but I'll be back, too...


CHARLIE,
I'm not the one that finds these killer deals, I cant take the credit. My Pop lives in a Navy town and comes across UNREAL deals both at the FleaCircus and Estate sales all the time. If I hadn't seen the pile of goodies myself I wouldn't believe it too. He is going to go through the router bits and give me either his old duplicates or duplicates of what was in these Plano boxes. Its really a pretty neat idea to keep them in something like that because it keeps the blades from getting chips in them. With all the stuff he just gave me (the list on the other page) he just starts loading down my car and tells me to have fun. I feel compelled to give him money for this next load, both so he can get us some more deals and well, you just kinda feel bad always taking stuff. He doesn't care one way or there other, his shops are slam full of stuff that any tool freak would be in overload! lol... Its fun just plundering about, I'm sure if I visited more the toys would be more abundant..... 

Don't feel bad about your car, heck I feel bad for mine because I've neglected it so. That and my struggle of what color to do my interior is just daunting! A large part of me wants to do the classic silver and red, yet the other part wants the clean look of the silver and linen. That has been a real hang up with me lately. The stock color is black and well here in the DEEP south its HOT AS HELL. I know the red would look really good and its a rare thing here. Linen, is just so clean looking but that is what's hanging me up about it, keeping it that way. If I did go with Linen I could do the less expensive black carpets. 

On top of all that, I've really been rethinking how and were I want my gear. I wanted to do it all in the cabin because it all looks really cool and with any of it in the front boot I wouldn't be able to marvel at it. As you know the Oz speakers have the very simple classic clean look to them. I was going to do those where the rear seat bottoms were. The amps because they are so thin I was going to put those where the seat backs are. The down side to all this is, if I did most of it in the front boot, I could remove it very easily if I sell it to get a 348 which has really been on my mind lately.........

What are you doing to your garage? Got any photo's? I'm just trying to sq mine away so I can paint a few race motorcycles. Some guys have really been hounding me lately to spray some for them.

Cheers buddy, have a great weekend
Scott


----------



## trojan fan

FLYONWALL9 said:


> I think you misunderstood...
> 
> This is stuff I got for my shop and install, not stuff I'm trying to sell. MAN TOYS MAN




Sorry...my bad


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Ok so I'm back at it, and I'm looking for some input from you guys. I decided to scrap what I already had molded because it just didn't flow as I wanted. I was looking something closer to that of the below factory panel.

This first photo is of a 996 door panel. They come stock with a midbass, and midrange
just below the door handle. I am going to try and mimic this KIND OF. Note the difference
in these two photo's. The first one the panel above the arm rest is solid, this is NOT factory. 
The second photo is 100% standard.










Just selected a different color incase some strange shading didn't allow you to see all that needed to be seen.









Ok, so this first photo is how I have it laid out now. The ruler is kind of a mock up of the angled panel above.









This photo shows the same only with a stock door handle. The reason why I choose the 996 handle is because I thought the angle of this handle looks better VS my old handle.









So here is the dilemma. My original thinking is that with the 911 handle would look odd the way I would have to mold the 8" ring to the panel. I still think the 996 will mold better based on something similar to what the factory did. Also, note the beauty panel the extends from the handle rearward and just above the arm rest. Would you make this panel or delete it? My thinking was to make the door pocket, ring, and that beauty panel one single part. All of that will be paint matched (silver) to the exterior of the car. To clean up the lip that is below the pocket I'm going to cut that off, mold it all as one piece with the speaker. So, do I paint match that beauty panel, or vinyl it like the factory part in the first two photo's?

What I'm looking for is some input of what you guys would do to blend the ring towards where the door pull is.


----------



## CA4944

Scott, isn't the handle in your examples from a 993? In any case, I really like the way it flows into the bigger speaker. My vote for it would be vinyl, but I can see how that would be hard to wrap! I would worry about paint scratching down there.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

CA4944 said:


> Scott, isn't the handle in your examples from a 993? In any case, I really like the way it flows into the bigger speaker. My vote for it would be vinyl, but I can see how that would be hard to wrap! I would worry about paint scratching down there.


THANKS Charlie! 

Your correct its a 993, I ALWAYS get the two confused. I even got 
confused when I ordered the part. Thank goodness they sent me pix
before sending the part. It would have been wrong.

My fiberglass and paint skiills are FAR better than my ability to wrap
that complex thing. I'm not saying it cannot be done, just not sure
if I could. I was going to really hit ti hard with PPG clear so the finish
would be as durable as the paint on the outside. I do see your point, 
its in a really bad location for feet hitting it. I wouldn't hit it near as
often as someone who isn't used to it, passengers....


----------



## eighty5iv

My friend also has an 89 Targa that he is in the process of restoring. I am going to forward him the link to your build. I am sure he would this as inspiration for his restoration cause I know I would. Can't wait to see more progress from you.


----------



## Wesayso

I'd go with the 993 door handles. You could aim the 8" slightly up, easyer to blend it with the handle that way?
I aimed my woofers up and in, but that was for 2 way purposes to blend easyer.
Are those original doorpockets or fibreglass. They look pretty straight. I need to make some new ones myself but
have never done much fibreglass work. Would it help me to source a couple of doorpockets? I thought they were some sort of cardboard.
I don't want to hack up my original pockets.


----------



## PGT FTW

I wouldn't do too much forming. I HATE when things are too organic....looks like someone dumped plaster or something. Sharp transitions sometimes looks better.


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

FLYONWALL9 said:


> So here is the dilemma. My original thinking is that with the 911 handle would look odd the way I would have to mold the 8" ring to the panel. I still think the 996 will mold better based on something similar to what the factory did. Also, note the beauty panel the extends from the handle rearward and just above the arm rest. Would you make this panel or delete it? My thinking was to make the door pocket, ring, and that beauty panel one single part. All of that will be paint matched (silver) to the exterior of the car. To clean up the lip that is below the pocket I'm going to cut that off, mold it all as one piece with the speaker. So, do I paint match that beauty panel, or vinyl it like the factory part in the first two photo's?
> 
> What I'm looking for is some input of what you guys would do to blend the ring towards where the door pull is.


Fly, I would mimic this look (in terms of panel layout, color is still your choice, anything done carefully will look BA, your car is like a gorgeous lady... Shed look good wearing just about anything, or, well you get the picture.










My reason for preferring this first look is manifold. First, it looks better than stock overall, less cluttered. Second, it economizes materials and labor by not having to wrap extra parts. Third, it has fewer small grooves and recesses to collect grime, e.g. it will be easier to clean and keep clean. Fourth, it appears sturdier and will probably be less likely to warp or break over time (I'm assuming you want this build to last...)

Not to be overbearing with my opinion, but I would only consider option 2 if you were a purist restoring a 993. Most of us who do restorations here are into customization and restomods, plus your car is not a 993 it's a 911. So you're already in the realm of restomods. You've shown due deference to Porsche's design team by hinting at a classic interior even if it's not 100% anatomically correct.










See what I mean about the groove above the armrest having the potential to collect dirt and grime? Seems like more work for an inferior end product.

One final thought is to echo what PGT said:



PGT FTW said:


> I wouldn't do too much forming. I HATE when things are too organic....looks like someone dumped plaster or something. Sharp transitions sometimes looks better.


I would expand his thought to say it depends on the car, but yeah if it doesn't flow with the car it looks silly. Anything that goes in my Nissan _has_ to be angular or it would contradict the entire look of the car. If all surfaces needed to be rounded we'd all live in dome houses by now. How this applies to your case is you will have to dive back in at a pretty steep angle from that large midbass toward the rest of the door panel, to allow room for fingers around the door handle (so passengers can hold on, of course) and so the door pod will fit properly around the dash.

If it were me (and I drive a mere Nissan so perhaps I don't count) I'd go with style #1, in the colors of your choice (though nothing too dark since you live in the south!) while sticking with the progress you've already made. Good luck buddy.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> I'd go with the 993 door handles. You could aim the 8" slightly up, easyer to blend it with the handle that way?
> I aimed my woofers up and in, but that was for 2 way purposes to blend easyer.
> Are those original doorpockets or fibreglass. They look pretty straight. I need to make some new ones myself but
> have never done much fibreglass work. Would it help me to source a couple of doorpockets? I thought they were some sort of cardboard.
> I don't want to hack up my original pockets.



I think you are correct, I believe using the use of the 993 handle will be much easier to make look factory like over the 911 stockers. As for aiming them it may be tough to get them aimed up and in with the depth of the sets of 8's I'm having to mold them to. As is now they are aimed slightly down in order to get the bulk of the basket higher. I have yet to cut the metal to see JUST what I have to play with. I think my TA is powerful enough to over come the angle I may have to live with. I'm also thinking this could help in that they wont be so directional? thinking

My pockets are in very good shape with only slight warpage along the bottom lip. That will get replaced when I mold the speaker pods. I plan to replace them with 1/4" mdf. As for the material, it appears to be some sort of fiber board though I will not know 100% until I start really sanding into them. I honestly do not think they are fiberglass.

As for making your own.
Its very doable but it will be very hard to do because your going to have to make two sets. One set would be glassed to match what you already have after you bondo up the deformations. Then you will pop that off of your factory panels and use that mold to then lay up the inside of the mold. That is an a great deal of work for a part that can be found for a bit over 150US. I'm not sure of your supply chain where you are. Let me know if you need help, I may can buy them here for you and ship them to you if needed. LEMME KNOW


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I think I am going to do something close to that of the TAN panels. I think it gives the 
best seperation within the panel and doesn't look quite as plain jane. Not really worried 
about dust and grime, the car only see's about 2k miles per year as my daily driver.

Now I just have to get the angles proper or close to those of that mid panel on the above 
photo. Going to work on that tomorrow. I've got a couple rolls of that brown paper to play 
with templates. Then its onto MDF. 

WONDERING NOW if its going to be worth the time and material to use some CDL tiles on 
the front of the panel before I CCF them. I've got only about 500 sheets of the stuff left 
to play with. LOL


----------



## Wesayso

Glad you choose the tan one, it's my favorite as well. Don't forget the MLV on the back of the entire panel:









I got it in 4mm thickness and it weighs close to 4 KG for one panel.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> Glad you choose the tan one, it's my favorite as well. Don't forget the MLV on the back of the entire panel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got it in 4mm thickness and it weighs close to 4 KG for one panel.


GLAD you posted this. I did buy a BIG roll of the stuff, weighs about 50lbs
I was 'up in the air' over putting it on the panel or on the door itself. I
guess it really doesn't matter aside from the door panel if a smother
surface, easier contour?


----------



## Wesayso

This is what I did with the inner door panel:








I covered the bigger holes with 1mm aluminium sheet metal and covered that with damping mat. I couldn't find a CCF local in 4mm thickness so I used weather stripping foam in a raster over the doors to decouple the MLV/doorpanel. The doorpanel is nice and smooth, I just glued the MLV to that using Bison Tix. I also glued a layer on the rear panel covering the firewall. There was a layer of MLV in there from factory, I put a similar raster of the foam wetherstiping on that and on top of that the MLV+panel to cover the rear.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I HAVE BEEN RACKING MY BRAIN, about this door panel thing along with the color choice. 

First things first.
Here is what I am going to do I think (as of now anyway) The filler panel midway up the door I have mocked up on a paper template. It took quite a long time viewing photos and drawing many different angles to get what I have. Its not 100% factory like but really close. Where the largest difference is, is at the top of the door handle. You can see the factory ends at the top of that handle. I'm thinking of extending that portion down the panel to mimic the speaker pod. This will keep the panel all one part vs making up to 3. It will however have the void above the pocket to keep contrast and help break up the panel.

I have also been thinking perhaps painting the pocket may look out of place, or i should say FAR outside the classic 911 box. It would be really easy to wrap the surface in carpet or flocking for a bit more modern look? I do like the flocking idea because it looks a bit more classy than simple carpet. THOUGHTS?

LASTLY but the real bummer to me is the thought of not being able to do a total color change. The reason is, a couple of the vinyl covered parts in the car aren't panels at all but metal parts covered in the car. Now this wouldn't be all that big of a deal except one of those parts, the A pillar also is where the VIN is attached. Drilling the rivets and reattaching could have monitory ramifications down the road..................................... So, I could go back all black (hot as hell) or my second choice is a grey/gray. 

WESAYCO,
I have been digging into the pocket to try to get an idea of the material its made of. Its very strange. On the surface it takes on the appearance of some sort of hard board, however, when you dig into it with a knife it almost looks like ABS. I know for sure its not glass. I will keep researching for you and if I turn up a definitive I'll pass it along.

THANKS,
SCOTT


----------



## FLYONWALL9

OK WITHOUT QUESTION the pocket is made out of ABS. I cut the lip off
the bottom this eve along with sanding it down. So while I was sanding
with my belt sander it would melt and clog up just like plastic. So, plastic
it is.... Hope that helps.

This however does have me worried about how well I can get a fillet to 
stick. I may have to reach into my bag of tricks from when I fixed Ducati
fairings, which are plastic. My worry is with cracking because it will be in
a 90deg radius. The pocket will join up to the mid panel that I also cut and
shaped this eve. So, in all one door panel is ready for fairing and sanding.
YAHOOOO!

Tomorrow, I'll break out the router and copy bit and make the second for
the drivers side. 

"MOVIN ON UP"

PIX TO FOLLOW!


----------



## Wesayso

Pictures!

I'd go with the flocking. That's my plan for my revised doorpockets. Suits my newly bought dashmatt as well. Thanks for looking into the material of those pockets. I think I will constuct new ones using fible glass. A friend of mine tipped me about using sandable foam to make the mold. My original pockets have some sagging and aren't as straight as yours.

As I said, pictures would alow us to see what you're up to...


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

Fly, when you say flocking, are you thinking of flocking it yourself or applying a material that has already been flocked? I think this would be fun to try:


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> Pictures!
> 
> I'd go with the flocking. That's my plan for my revised doorpockets. Suits my newly bought dashmatt as well. Thanks for looking into the material of those pockets. I think I will constuct new ones using fible glass. A friend of mine tipped me about using sandable foam to make the mold. My original pockets have some sagging and aren't as straight as yours.
> 
> As I said, pictures would alow us to see what you're up to...


I'll get you some photo's.

I've already done the foam thing making duplicates of the pocket. Where
I failed you should be able to do it. The reason why I failed is because my
shape was far more complex than just the pocket. It wouldn't release from
the foam core. If I were you, I would make your foam core a bit smaller than 
the original. That way you can build in strength. I would also make the lip for
the top out of some sort of hard wood and glass it in. This is what the factory 
tried to do with ABS only it warps. 

If you have any questioins as to the type of foam, shaping so forth....


----------



## FLYONWALL9

TJ Mobile Audio said:


> Fly, when you say flocking, are you thinking of flocking it yourself or applying a material that has already been flocked? I think this would be fun to try:]


Yeah I'm talking about doing the flocking myself. Though I 
hoped to find electrostatic flocking. The fiber in electro stand
on end and not just piled on one another like in your video.


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

Oh gotcha.


----------



## Wesayso

FLYONWALL9 said:


> I'll get you some photo's.
> 
> I've already done the foam thing making duplicates of the pocket. Where
> I failed you should be able to do it. The reason why I failed is because my
> shape was far more complex than just the pocket. It wouldn't release from
> the foam core. If I were you, I would make your foam core a bit smaller than
> the original. That way you can build in strength. I would also make the lip for
> the top out of some sort of hard wood and glass it in. This is what the factory
> tried to do with ABS only it warps.
> 
> If you have any questioins as to the type of foam, shaping so forth....


My friend mentioned I could literally melt the foam out of the glassed pockets using a proper solvent? You're right on the money on the lip, I also plan to do the same for the parts that are tightened to the door. 
2 things are keeping me from doing this: proper material choise and the shape I want them to be. Not sure on both...


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> My friend mentioned I could literally melt the foam out of the glassed pockets using a proper solvent? You're right on the money on the lip, I also plan to do the same for the parts that are tightened to the door.
> 2 things are keeping me from doing this: proper material choise and the shape I want them to be. Not sure on both...


You have a few choices on foam. Honestly your choice is limitless. Because no matter what foam you choose can be coated or protected rather to withstand resins active ingredient, MEK in the case of polyester. That said, you can even go to the florist and get some of that green foam they use to set flowers in. Its very easy to shape with knife and sandpaper, however dints rather easy. What I'm getting at is, you can use any foam just cover the foam with tape, or my choice 'peel ply' about the same material as a plastic bag. What would be cool to use is some sort of vac bag set up. Take your foam shape vac bag that with any vacuum sealer making sure that the facing surface is smooth. Then apply your resin and a couple really thin layers of fiberglass chopped is best for this part then ease that into another vac bag and suck down the pressure. You'll end up with a near perfect part and if you got all the wrinkles out of its surface, little to ZERO sanding.

If it were me I would just get a couple of those vac bags to store things in and use a shop vac to apply the pressure. If you use this method then you wont have to use any solvents to eat away at the foam. Save yourself the fumes and also having to clean up your fiberglass part. Two vac bags should do the trick with say a towel or something like that between the fiberglass part and the final vac bag.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I'm having to wait until well into the night b4 I start work due to the heat in my shop. I worked from about 11 til 1 when my neighbor complained due to my belt sander..

This first set of photo's is of the door panel before I redid them. These would have worked fine with my old handles but that was changed also. As you can see at the top nearest the door handle I had little to no room to mold. Also this shape didn't really go with the panel at all. 









NOTE the height of the top of the ring vs the handle.








NOTE the new ring height.








This last set of photo's are after I cut everything apart, made a new mid filler panel. Its ready now to be foamed and then shaped. I was going to just pull fabric over the entire speaker ring but I don't think I can get the shape the panel needs to be by doing this. You will understand this reasoning once you see the panel in foam and shaped. The only down side to this shape is the ring does stick out a bit at the bottom. If I trim that part up then the ring itself wont fit the wooden ring, nor will the speaker and grill. It would be a downhill spiral. My delima lies in, HOW do I mold or make it look factory like in front of the handle or door popper? This may be a trial and error thing until I like its shape. As you can see I didn't use the standard "wooden dowel" method. I find that tongue depressors are far easier to cut simply with a pair of kitchen scissors once measured and marked. Plus I can get a box of 500 for like 2 bucks. They are plenty strong enough for this type of deal. This also added depth within the door, I am pretty sure it will still fit. Fingers crossed until tomorrow when I can give it a dry run.




































Also note the much smoother lip at the bottom of the pocket. I cut off the old wrinkled one. The pocket will get a nice 1/2" fillet. Though at this time I don't know if I want to use epoxy and milled fiberglass fiber, wood flour, or microballoons. After the fillet I'll use 6" biax tape so that if the joint does crack it will do so under the fiberglass. Once that is glassed I'll lay one or two layers of cloth over the entire part.


LAST but surely not least (tha booty) I finally got 1/2 of my new to me drill bits all cleaned up and put in their new home. I still have a good many left to do and a bunch of hole saws. I still haven't gone to pick up my router bits, I don't really need them yet, though I cannot seem to find my flush bit, as yet.









I hope to keep motivated and healthy enough to do some work.

Have a good weekend guys,
Scott


----------



## CA4944

Scott, those handles completely transform the door. I really like this look!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Thanks Charlie.... Long time no C....


I got the photos in rev. The first ones are how the panels are now, the last
ones are how they were before I changed the angle.

I was going to fix the post but too much of a PIA.


----------



## 11blueGTI

I have always loved this era of Porsche. Keep up the good work and I will keep an eye on the progress.


----------



## Wesayso

FLYONWALL9 said:


> Thanks Charlie.... Long time no C....
> 
> 
> I got the photos in rev. The first ones are how the panels are now, the last
> ones are how they were before I changed the angle.
> 
> I was going to fix the post but too much of a PIA.


Glad you mentioned this  I had a hard time figuring out why the rings were like that in those last pictures. It looks quite good. Hope the woofers fit that way. I mean, they are higher up than my 6.5 and I know there is a window motor in there above my speakers. Are you going to follow the round ring to make the enclosure meet up with the pockets? See uploaded picture for reference.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

The pocket panel will look very close to the factory one on page 7. I'm going to 
follow the bottom of the dash at the front of the speaker and then TRY and mold
it to look like the factory panel at the door open handle.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

OK so a day off to recover. I got all jacked up on meds for my back so I could push through. I know this is a long read but for documenting purpose for any 911 owner that wants to follow suite I think its vital. THANKS FOR BEARING WITH ME!

So, this is where I'm at.
I attached the fill panel to the door card so that it would index in the same spot each time. I also attached some temp screws along the fill panel so it would always align. I do see an issue. Once covered how will I attach the fill panel to the door card? I wont be able to secure it from the back side (I don't think) because the tolerance at the top of the ring and the door handle are so close I cant get a screw through the handle to the doors metal. I MAY can attach a piece of flat bar to the handle that extends into the inside of the ring then screw the assembly through the card to the door itself. THIS IS A MAJOR DEAL BREAKER! I then drilled holes along the inside of the ring so that when I flipped the card over I would know where the ring resides in relation to the front of the panel. Traced and cut the ring to the inside of the marks. This would insure that I didn't end up too wide outside the front ring. 

As with any fiberglass mold work its hard at this time to get a handle on just what its going to look like. At the top of the ring near the door pull that part is going to be VERY thin indeed.. The front the excess will be trimmed once I make where the dash blends to the panel as you see on the other factory panels. At the rear where the door handle popper is I'm thinking of going just in front of it and at an angle to the top of the ring, much like the other factory panels. Leaving enough room for hands to wrap around the pull.









In this photo you get an idea how much I am pulling the ring off the panel. Note the angle isn't an optimum angle but this is the very best it can be given the massive size of the driver. So, it does have a slight downward and inward angle. I'm not really worried about image at this point because I know how much I can manipulate sound wave arrival with the SONY XES-X1. I've installed tweets dead center of the floor angled up to the roof and could make it sound like it was mounted on either headlight. TRY THAT MS-8!









LAST photo shows just how little the driver will protrude into the door itself. It does sit a tad high and close to the window motor. IF THIS IS A BUST it is a simple fix, I'll just adjust the ring to sit farther than I want outward on the front by the distance needed to clear. I know its hard to get a reference on what this photo shows without a ruler, but I think at most I'm dealing with 3/4" protrusion from the back of the door card. NOW, I could take up some of that room with 1/4" CCF and MLV. I will know more what I'm dealing with on this issue when I go to my buds shop and use his air nibbler to make the cuts.









I hope to have mock up photo's tomorrow with door panel in place and mounted after I cut the door panel.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

WONDERING

Should I make "cups" in the back of the door cards to turn these into a
sealed enclosure? I know the Quarts will do find free air BUT the OZ-200L
will need an enclosure. I wont be able to make it 1/2-3/4" but I could put
a small aperiodic membrane to perhaps make up some space. 

WHAT TO DO??


----------



## Wesayso

How much airspace is in there? Your cabin gain will help you up to 200 Hz at least. The problem area I have found is a dip at 80 Hz. So if you look up the output of both drivers I would pick the one with the best 80 Hz responce.
Sub bass is easy, around 50 Hz and 125 HZ there are large peaks. (could be somewhat inbetween those numbers as I only measured testtones that are available on my 16 band EQ. I plan to use pink noise test tones to verify that.
If you're going sealed be prepared to strengthen the pockets anyway you can . You'd loose some airspace from that. Couldn't you make the beautipanel and the pockets one panel and atach it to the doorpanel from the back using inserts? I mean cut a new beautipanel that follows the entire pocket making a sealed backside for them and that way that whole panel is the (sealed) enclosure that gets mounted onto the doorpanel.

Just some ramblings, hope it makes sense 

Check out the pockets on the Magic Bus:
http://web.mac.com/jon_whitledge/Whitledge_Designs/Audio_System_Photos/Pages/Doors.html#0








That's quite similar to yours if you go the sealed route...


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> If you're going sealed be prepared to strengthen the pockets anyway you can . You'd loose some airspace from that. Couldn't you make the beautipanel and the pockets one panel and atach it to the doorpanel from the back using inserts? I mean cut a new beautipanel that follows the entire pocket making a sealed backside for them and that way that whole panel is the (sealed) enclosure that gets mounted onto the doorpanel.
> 
> Just some ramblings, hope it makes sense
> 
> Check out the pockets on the Magic Bus:
> Doors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's quite similar to yours if you go the sealed route...


YOUR A SMART MAN CHARLIE BROWN....

Note in the photos that the pocket is divided just under the door open handle? That divider separates the door map pocket from the pocket under the arm rest. I'm thinking if I glass that divider to blend into my ring then make a cup for the back side of the panel. The enclosure would include that map pocket, the space from the ring to the door card, then the cup behind the card. I'm guessing here because it will be pretty difficult to measure, even using peanuts or some sort of packing material. Anyway, I'm thinking easy 1/2 cubic feet. 

The reason I say your a "SMART MAN CHARLIE BROWN?" 

Because the way I cut the mid panel is all one panel with the pocket attached. I cut the lip off the bottom of the pocket because it was warped and wavy. I then hot glued the pocket to that beauty panel which also holes the speaker rings. I think now your getting the idea that I haven't been able to describe very well. Once I have the middle panel cut to the match the under dash, I'll pull all the parts apart and snap a photo for you. This may help you when you build your new pockets.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

It cooled off a bit so and I fell behind this week so I decided to put in a few minutes this eve. I rechecked the panel on the door and marked where the knee pad met the panel so I could trim it out. I ran into an issue and couldn't cut it with my jigsaw so I had to break out the old school handsaw. Then I needed to round the leading edges so I had at it with my drill press sand bits on my drill. Worked like a champ.









Then once cut I masked off the parts of the panel with painters tape that marked the edge of what would be foamed. Filled in the area with spray foam so I could shape the panel tomorrow for glassing.


On the plus side, when I remounted the panel with the woofer I'm thinking that I may not have to cut any of the door. This was my main goal in the first place, I'll know more tomorrow after I shape the foam and remount the new door card to check for clearance of the knee pad.


















planning ahead, I'm debating if I should use 1/4" CCF on the front of the panel or 1/8". Also, I'm thinking I will glue my MLF and CCF directly to the back of the panel. 

In all its fitting exactly how I hoped and planned it would. I hope by the end of the week I will have this panel mounted to the door, I may have to sand just a bit on the door latch side to even out the look and make it fit exactly like the factory panel. I'll know more about this once I can screw it to the door vs using the locking cup (large hole in the middle of the panel).


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I'm almost done shaping the mid panel / speaker ring / door pocket then its onto glassing. I hope by weeks end our 102deg heat will lay off enough for me to glass and fair it up enough for paint, or whatever covering I decide to go with. Funny all that foam ended up looking I stole George Washington's wig and molded it in. lol Pics to follow.



I went though all these pages and discovered I didn't have pics of a couple very hard to find PRIIZED parts of my system. NOW, if I could only turn up a 4" mid. I've searched for 3-4 years now, its starting to look like I'll never find any. BUT I'M NOT GIVING UP!
HOPE YA'LL LIKE THESE


----------



## kustomkaraudio

Do you just need a single 4 inch mid ? if so , I have a brand new one sitting in my closet.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

HOLD THE PHONE!!!! you have a SUPERMAN logo OZ4"er? if so how much?


----------



## kustomkaraudio

Yeah , been in sitting in the closet for a million years now. I was gonna use it for a center channel project years ago, that never happened. Shoot me a offer, I would love to see it used !


----------



## FLYONWALL9

So we have had some cooler days, still burned the hell up. 

BUT, I was able to get most of the glue and horse hair out
of the back of the car. DAMN the person who came up with
that bright idea of using that crap.:icon_bs: So, now I'll be 
able to put in my tiles, MLV, and CCF.

QUESTION

Is it really necessary to put MLV and CCF where the rear
seat bottoms would normally go? reason why I ask is because
that will be where my subs are going. Being it will be covered
by that would CCF and MLV really make that much of a diff?

I may end up taking some pix tomorrow but its nothing we all
haven't seen before. Then again, if I do take it to a show I will
prolly need that documentation for my build/install album?

Cheers all,
Scott


----------



## req

mlv keeps the outside sounds outside the car, ccf will decouple the mlv from the car and increase this ability even more.

ccf can also decouple the subwoofer enclosure from the mlv\car body reducing tactile data from "vibrating" to your feet, causing a psycho acoustic effect such as pulling the soundstage toward where you are 'feeling' the sound. if you feel it in your back, then your brain will insist its comming from behind you. if you feel it in your knee thats touching the door panel, then your brain points to that area.

so using CCF to decouple whatever it is from the frame of the car means less vibration is transferred to you. try sitting in the car playing some music and have you knee touch the door panel near the speaker - and critically listen. then pull that away, and even try and get your feet off the floor, or put some kind of foam under your feet. you will notice a big difference in transferred energy and it is less distracting to you 

i would put the CCF\MLF down in that manner below where the subwoofer will go - and then do another layer of CCF on top, eventually attach that layer of CCF to the back of your sub enclosure - then you have a sandwich of CCF - MLV - CCF and your subs are decoupled from the car and the MLF will absorb a lot of tactile information because of its density - being that its sitting on CCF, it will not transfer that data into vibrations of materials near it, it will burn it as friction in the molecules as heat (VERY little heat, but yea)

i hope that helps 

sorry about the rant!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Thanks for the exp. don't worry about the rant. If you have read any of this
thread you know very well when I'm on my meds my fingers don't stop typing.

The only issue I have with putting the MLV and CCF under the enclosure is it
may eat up a pretty good bit of air space. I'm going to need to use some hard
board/cardboard and mock up the box to see just how much air space I can
come up with. I'm pretty sure those subs need something close to 1.5 per driver?

I also have some 1/4" pretty heavy rubber. I've been thinking about using it one
the rear firewall. I thought it may block and decouple more than the 1/4" CCF I
have. I wonder??......


----------



## Wesayso

[whisper mode] Put the subs in the trunk, you know that's the right place for them [/whisper mode]


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> [whisper mode] Put the subs in the trunk, you know that's the right place for them [/whisper mode]


I'm about 50/50 on about that very subject. The one thing
holding me back is wanting to be able to see em pound
If I lived in a place where our high temps weren't borderline
hot as the surface of the sun, I would... I would also like to
be able to put ome luggage.

NINEBALL, was able to get a pretty generous amount of 
airspace and these subs like a good bit of it. 

I was wanting to do a seat delete and do a partial shelf like
the RS. If I mimic that part when you look in the back of the
car you would only guess it were that storage shelf. The amps
will go where the seat backs are. 

I picked up a tool kind of like a Rotozip that should cut the old
sound deadener like butter


----------



## FLYONWALL9

WOOT WOOT

TIME TO ROCK AN ROLL. get it on with the sticky stuff! Doc EYEBALL put me on some new pain meds so I'm feeling a bit better and now can work about 2hrs per trip.

so I had time to shape the foam after putting t in the car to make sure everything fit proper and molded to the underside of the dash. After some trimming it was perfect. So it was time to cover and get it ready for some glass. I'm doing it this way so that I can pop it off and take out all the mold foam. Also at that time I can seal up any holes and glass my popped off part to the door skin. Make a little cup on the back side and it will be a small cup on the back side (.5 or so) sealed enclosure.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Well I didn't get one second of sleep last night due to thinking about those damn door panels! 
I also had to take a relative to the airport at 5am so that sucked even more. When I got home 
I started removing the tar or whatever Porsche calls the sound deadening **** they put down. 
The glue and also horse hair.

I DID DISCOVER the best way on the planet to remove OEM sound deadening. The dry ice trick 
did nothing for me. So, I borrowed one of those industrial ROTOzip things. This thing looks like a 
side grinder with a flat serrated bit on the end. BADASS!! I was able to do the entire passenger 
side front and back floor, rear side horse hair, and all the glue. I will need to clean it up with a 
brass brush on my drill but I can tell you, you will not find an easier way to do this!!

I'm going to see if I can get an hour nap then I will post pics of the tool and how well it did. 

PICS TO COME!!! CUZ I know how much you guys like them.


----------



## Wesayso

Cool stuff! You're making good progress... I hope you got that nap


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Well, its 5pm and STILL have not slept. Had a different relative come in town at 
the spur of the moment and had to cart them around all day. I really wanted to 
sleep and get up about 2 and finish up. What I did learn is the car IS GOING to get 
a TURBO! With all the weight out of the car seat and crap I dug out, it FLIES! Take 
the top off and flies even more... Butt dyno that is.

So, pics are going to come tomorrow. I don't even feel like getting up to take a crap, 
I'mma put on a diaper and lay here! lol


----------



## Old Skewl

BTW! Nice clean car! Step Dad had a '82. Nice Driving car!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Old Skewl said:


> BTW! Nice clean car! Step Dad had a '82. Nice Driving car!


Thank you..


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Ok so I lied. I couldn't leave well enough alone. I figured I got so much done today I would press on until my back couldn't take anymore. 

Here is the tool, for ref that is a size 13 flipflop. OH and Porsche never thought a guy with big feet would be crammed in the back of the car trying to lay tiles..... This was a day I missed my high school install helper from back in the day. I could have turned him loose and come back when it was done.








As you can see it got every bit of the ole tar crap they used. It was as brittle and thin as pie crust. I spect it did about as much good.... I still have to get out the wire brush, after that it should be all gravy. 









Then I decided to lay down some tiles in the back where it was cleaned and ready to go. The sound deadening rolles SUCK! So I took a fiberglass roller and wrapped it in tape. Much better handle to work with and I would guess with those ridges will hold better.


----------



## 2500hd

Part of me wants to say:
"please don't mess with that vehicle! It's such a classic!" 
The other is like:
"well, I hope it's everything you ever wanted!"

I think it's crazy to cut it up, but all that matters is that you get some supeme satisfaction...


----------



## FLYONWALL9

2500hd said:


> Part of me wants to say:
> "please don't mess with that vehicle! It's such a classic!"
> The other is like:
> "well, I hope it's everything you ever wanted!"
> 
> I think it's crazy to cut it up, but all that matters is that you get some supeme satisfaction...


Trust me when I say, I am not going to cut one single part of the car!
Not even to fit those 8's! I built and built and rebuilt until I had it so
that they would go in without any mods. Every single thing I'm doing
I can take out of the car and put it back to stock, may take a bit at
my pace. But it can be done. Also, I will be doing some track days 
so, I have to figure out how to do the sub so it can come out fast.

Thanks much for your compliments. And do come back


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## gtrplyr

I have never seen a car like this before


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## FLYONWALL9

Ok so I got out late last night and glassed my passenger side pocket/8 enclosure. I could not find my peel ply so I used a WaldoWorld plastic bag. It worked out great. It still needs to cure another day or so before I try and pull it off the mold. The fit is so tight I can tell its going to be a real pia. I may even have to cut it in half to get it off. Then glass it back together when I put it back on.

I worked way too long because my freaking neck is killing me. So, I'm going to need to figure something out for the other one. Or work with it up high and not on my table saw.

pics to come


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## FLYONWALL9

Looks like my 2yo resin got a bit too hot. I should have warmed it up in some water before use. I had about a 3" dry resin plug in the neck of the bottle. That is that big bubble you see top right of where the speaker hole is. You can see how much smoother the glass gets if you use a plastic sheet once you have the cloth applied. Sure saves on sanding. I found any bag will work. If my peel ply doesn't come in by the next layup I'll use a lawn grass bag, its a bit thicker and should peel off a bit easier.


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## derickveliz

This is *AWESOME!* 

Love the car, admire your install!


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## FLYONWALL9

Well, my LOTTO hit today! 

I was lucky enough to find a member here and on other boards that likes to experiment with different speakers a pretty good bit. He had these sitting in storage, we struck an agreement and the last couple missing pieces to my puzzle have been found. Now I have everything.... SSSSSSSSSAAAWEET! I'M STOKED.


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## FLYONWALL9

For those of you interested. I did find out this tool was purchased at Harbor Freight. 
I wasn't told how much it cost, but like most everything at that store it isn't much AND 
it comes from someplace in Asia. I will check the price when I go get him some new blades. 
The one blade I did use is still in good shape, I just like to give back tools in as good or 
better shape then I borrowed.


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## Wesayso

You're on a roll! Keep up the good work! Some nice progress here!


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## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> You're on a roll! Keep up the good work! Some nice progress here!


THANKS BUDDY!!!! Its always nice to get positive feedback.....


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## FLYONWALL9

Great news on the door pocket/pod build. I had a very gracious offer by a board member to 
plot my OZ-200L's to see what size enclosure they should be in. To my surprise its much smaller 
than I anticipated, from .328 no plyfill, .305 typical polyfill, to .284 full polyfill. My next steps are 
to remove all the foam and measure what I already have and adjust from that.

My plan after that is to knock out another set of kick panels for my new 4's and temperately install 
the XES system in the front boot. I really need to hear some progress for that much needed kick in the pants.

THANKS BRIAN for your help, as remedial as it may have been for you to do what you did its a HUGE boost to me!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Got a little bit done on the car done today while it was cool this A.M.. As you see I was able to get up the rest of the factory crap off the floors and installed the new stuff. I then cut a piece of 1/4" CCF for the firewall and glued it down. When it cools off this eve I'll finish up with the CCF in the back of the car and passenger side floor. I'm thinking on the rocker I'm going to use 1/4" CCF so I wont have any issues with bulk when I lay down the carpet. Not sure yet if I should use MLV on the rockers or not?


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## FLYONWALL9

Ok so I had my late afternoon session. I laid down the glue HEAVY on the car then thin on the CCF let both dry to touch and stick away. I used a fiberglass roller to roll it out. I think it came out pretty well.


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## Wesayso

Nice work! I would have painted it first with something like Por 15 but I live in a bad climate for cars . You have added way more weight than I dared to do but it will help. I only did the doors and trunk around the sub and extra MLV on the firewall. Haven't done the floor yet but still concidering it as an option. It has helped a great deal so far and your car is going to be much more silent than mine. I should mention that my SSI + muffler isn't exactly silent even with the extra MLV. But I can easily overcome that with music playing at about 90-95 dB these days. 

You will love the gain in the bass department. It is easy to get bass in these cars. With the 3 way you are planning you have a lot of potential with those big woofers playing only mid-bass and the mids playing the important range (I guess 200 to 4-5K? Hard to tune I suppose, but you have the processing power to make it work. I only have an 8" sub and turn down the output at 20 Hz to avoid it doing funny things to the floor. Most of the 95 dB I talked about is at 50 Hz and below . Hard to keep the dash from vibrating. I have stuffed it with egg carton shaped foam in several places.
Will the tweeters be mounted next to the mids in the kicks? I remember reading about other options. I have looked down while driving and I know my legs (left leg actually) would block it quite often.
Get some sound blasting soon! It will motivate you. I drove in our other car for more than a week and was glad to be in the 911 this week and have some tunes (on top of the still awesome performance and thrill of driving these older cars bring, mine is going to be 30 years next year!).


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## FLYONWALL9

WELL, I was going to go out and work on my car after the race today. I had it pulled into the carport aired out and ready to go. I'm a HUGE INDY fan have been sense before my teen years. If you know or watch motorsport or the news one of my very favorite drivers was killed today. Going and watching the race at Barber Motorsports Park will not be the same.... Its almost silly and I cannot figure out why this has hit me so hard. NEEDLESS to say I didn't feel much like working on my car.


*RIP DAN 1978-2011 *









​


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## Micksh

It was really sad to hear...I don't even watch Indy racing but you never like to see anyone hurt or killed. That was a really terrible crash. Hard to believe how many cars were involved...


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## samcam

I just picked up a '92 Targa. How much depth do you have on the rear deck? I was thinking of adding some 6.5" Tang Band subs back there but I'm worried there's not enough room.


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## CA4944

FLYONWALL9 said:


> Ok so I had my late afternoon session. I laid down the glue HEAVY on the car then thin on the CCF let both dry to touch and stick away. I used a fiberglass roller to roll it out. I think it came out pretty well.


Scott, I'm sorry I missed this! That looks like a really good, tight fit. When I put CCF under my interior quarter panels, I just kind of held it in place and squished the panel over top, thinking that it would be a temporary install, and that I would put some vinyl over it later. It did make quite a difference, in any case. I may still. My garage is nearly finished!

Oh, and I wouldn't recommend adding vinyl to the rockers. I know my interior is a bit different design, but I found it pretty hard to get things to fit comfortably under and over the carpet when I started adding layers and wires there.

Great work!


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## veleno

Nice progress. Subscribed to see when it's finally finished!


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## FLYONWALL9

It's not only been motorcycles and paint for the past two weeks. I have been working on a seriously nasty old Yamaha TZ250 that looked like it had been in a potato gun fight. I had upwards of 200hrs in that thing and I didn't even prime it. That was just working out all the dints and then body filler. Sand smooth, get flat, then recoat repeat steps one and two..

I talked the owner of a seriously BA CBR1000r to let me shoot an old retro paint scheme. I wish now I had only just brought it back here in my little shop. Its no paint booth but I think I paint better in it.

Anyway, enough about two wheels. I had a perfect match to the factory color of the P1/X1, then went a completely different direcion. 

from this


















TO THIS.... Brushed aluminum look and I kinda like it over the factory color. The really small text I wont paint, Just clean it


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## FLYONWALL9

samcam said:


> I just picked up a '92 Targa. How much depth do you have on the rear deck? I was thinking of adding some 6.5" Tang Band subs back there but I'm worried there's not enough room.


Sam,
I don't think you can get anything with any depth without building your deck lid up.


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## Wesayso

That brushed aluminium looks sweet!


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## howlndog

Wesayso said:


> That brushed aluminium looks sweet!


...ditto, that!


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## Wesayso

Hey howlndog, how's your install comming along? Long time no see...


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## FLYONWALL9

Whats up hotfoot?

Its comin right along. FUNNY you message me the very same day my guy who is doing the interior for me calls and tells me the material for my car will be in this week. CAN CAN red my friend! What can I say you planted a seed with the color of yours. I'm thinking of using the passenger side seat back in place of the drivers being they interchange and the cushion in the other one is like new. Like I said, something is telling me to go this route. Plus, I just got finished with a friend painting his Honda Legions TT paint scheme for next year. Something you would prolly find very cool.


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## Wesayso

YES! Good choise! Can't wait to see some samples


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## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> YES! Good choise! Can't wait to see some samples


Prolly the next photo's of my car will have new int. and headlights after the freaking accident.


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## howlndog

Wesayso said:


> Hey howlndog, how's your install comming along? Long time no see...


Not much, unfortunately. Spent most of the summer working on other things (engine, suspension, sound proofing). I expect to have it painted this spring (slate grey) and then it's on to the tunes! I can't wait to get it back on the road. In the last 3 years, I've driven it less than 200 miles.

For now, I'm living vicariously through you and Fly.

Happy holidays, fellas.


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## Wesayso

FLYONWALL9 said:


> Whats up hotfoot?
> 
> Plus, I just got finished with a friend painting his Honda Legions TT paint scheme for next year. Something you would prolly find very cool.


Pictures?


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## Wesayso

howlndog said:


> Not much, unfortunately. Spent most of the summer working on other things (engine, suspension, sound proofing). I expect to have it painted this spring (slate grey) and then it's on to the tunes! I can't wait to get it back on the road. In the last 3 years, I've driven it less than 200 miles.
> 
> For now, I'm living vicariously through you and Fly.
> 
> Happy holidays, fellas.


Can't wait to see how that paint job turns out! You have a beautiful car...
Are you taking pictures of the build?


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## FLYONWALL9

This was just a test fit, after final clear coat. No screws nothing they are just resting on the bike. I'll add numbers and other decals along with final wetsand and buff after Christmas. Clear should be cured enough by then.

cheers,
Scott


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## jstn

mmm targa. puurty!


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## howlndog

Wesayso said:


> Are you taking pictures of the build?


Yes, I've got a fair amount. I'll definately post them on Pelican, when I'm done (if I ever get done, that is).

Fly - That bike is beautiful!


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## Wesayso

Beautiful work FLY! Very cool indeed!

I'll look for that thread when the time comes Howln, keep at it and you will get there.
I still want to do a backdate but I don't want to take my car of the road. Just afraid it will never get finished .


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## sydmonster

PHOT!!, yes that is worth a quote and then some!! NICE!


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## FLYONWALL9

Moving along slowly but progress just the same. I trimmed the excess resin away from my drivers door 8" pod. It will need some mending once I tape up the ring. I'll then bondow it to the pod and pull it away once cure. this should give 100% fit with no rattle or buzz. Oddly, I didn't expect the thin glass layers to pull away from the pocket base. Now to figure out a solution to keep it in place. Perhaps some Gorilla glue? resin wouldn't be the solution as it would put me in the same boat. I have really got to moving on this stuff becasue my trim shop that is doing my CANCAN swap will get really ready to start...

QUESTION for you 911 owners on color swap. The dash doesn't seem to be an issue because its a solid plastic unit, facorty or not? i'm unsure. The issue is that our VIN numbers are located on the A PILLAR. So no real way to cover the pillar unless I remove the VIN which I am VERY HESITANT


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## Wesayso

Can't help you there Fly, European models don't have that VIN tag....
I can understand your reservations though. I wouldn't remove it. What color are the pillars?


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## FLYONWALL9

Currently the pillars are black along with the targa hoop. So, my thought would be to leave those few parts black. 

I did strip the part that is under the rear wind screen. Oddly enough it had some sort of rather hard foam. So, I removed that as well taking it down to nothing but metal. I did clean it rather well so that anything going over it would have no choice but to stick rather well. I also did the same to the part that is the arm rest at the front windows. They look really good in raw metal. My thought is to cover them in 1/8" CCF then cover in vinyl, to match the dash. 

While I was on a roll and had that wild hair in my ass I went ahead and bondowed the door pockets to achieve space for my 8's. That came out REALLY GOOD. With a small amount of rubbing they should appear to be factory like with no sag to the arm rest.

I have REALLY got to step up my game if the trim shop is going to get the car this month. I also plan to have the seats cover like that of the 993/996 because very little of the inside will look like that of the older 911's. If I could put my hands on a newer model dash and glove box it would really be fitting of the scheme. I think your going to really like the route I'm taking once I have some photo's to show for it. 

The really neat part will be the rear seat delete which will take a huge amount of time and molding. It should be unlike any 911 I've ever been able to find yet keep with the aesthetics to an extent. 

now that i have my full complement of medications it does make it much easier to work til 4am like today..

Cheers my friend....
Scott


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## Hunteea

Well the car looks awesome. Which one is this ?


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## Wesayso

FLYONWALL9 said:


> Currently the pillars are black along with the targa hoop. So, my thought would be to leave those few parts black.
> 
> I did strip the part that is under the rear wind screen. Oddly enough it had some sort of rather hard foam. So, I removed that as well taking it down to nothing but metal. I did clean it rather well so that anything going over it would have no choice but to stick rather well. I also did the same to the part that is the arm rest at the front windows. They look really good in raw metal. My thought is to cover them in 1/8" CCF then cover in vinyl, to match the dash.
> 
> While I was on a roll and had that wild hair in my ass I went ahead and bondowed the door pockets to achieve space for my 8's. That came out REALLY GOOD. With a small amount of rubbing they should appear to be factory like with no sag to the arm rest.
> 
> I have REALLY got to step up my game if the trim shop is going to get the car this month. I also plan to have the seats cover like that of the 993/996 because very little of the inside will look like that of the older 911's. If I could put my hands on a newer model dash and glove box it would really be fitting of the scheme. I think your going to really like the route I'm taking once I have some photo's to show for it.
> 
> The really neat part will be the rear seat delete which will take a huge amount of time and molding. It should be unlike any 911 I've ever been able to find yet keep with the aesthetics to an extent.
> 
> now that i have my full complement of medications it does make it much easier to work til 4am like today..
> 
> Cheers my friend....
> Scott


Can't wait to see more! I'd leave those parts black. It will look good.
I'm very curious to see what your back seat delete is going to look like...

Subs still in the back? Or in the front boot (where they belong ).

Take care!


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## FLYONWALL9

Hunteea said:


> Well the car looks awesome. Which one is this ?


THANKS!!

Its an 87 Targa that you can see like on page one I think.

I stayed working on it until 4am last night so I got TONS done. Got one door panel all bondo filled ready for the 8. Got all the trimp parts stripped of the black vinyl and sanded to metal ready for new foam and CANCAN red. I was stoked to see they were in good shape with ZERO pits. pics to follow... MOVIN RIGHT ALONG MY FRIENDS!!

PLEASE KEEP THE POS COMMENTS COMIN THEY ARE MY FUEL...


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## Wesayso

You get the pics up and we will!!!


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## Wesayso

a bit of inspiration...


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## FLYONWALL9

THANK YOU FOR THAT MY FRIEND!!!! MUCH MUCH need after the medical issues I have had this past week. broken hip, remived cancer, and a very serious case of anxiety.... MUCH NEEDED.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

AND TO RETURN THE FAVOR I HOPE THAT ALL THESE PHOTO'S WILL POST IF NOT I WILL SURELY GO BACK AND FILL THIS SUCKER UP WITH THEM.... I FEEL YOU WILL ENJOY THEM ALONG WITH SOME OF THE OTHERS.... KEEPING IN MINE i HAVE ONLY BEEN DOING THIS GOING ON 2 YEARS...

CHEERS MY FRIEND,
SCOTT


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## FLYONWALL9

Well, I got some other shots of the TT CBR100 and hope you all like it. It will venture out on its first track day this weekend. I can only hope it makes it back in one piece. then gain if it doesn't I will get to fix the issues which he didn't want me messing with in the first place.
























The second bike was my first AMA race bike I painted after my own which I'll try and find photo's of.
























It should also be known that this was the very first motorcycle I ever owned.......
.


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## FLYONWALL9

I taught myself how to paint VIA rattle can which you would not figure due to the UNRAL luster and shine I was able to achieve. So anyone who says you cant get quality paint from a can show them these! This bike even had GHOST "HONDA" wings on the tank and GHOST "HONDA" decals on the belly pan. Something I had never done but with a bit of time and planning ANYTHING can be done.... This entire bike was taken down to EVERY SINGLE last bolt and every piece, had rubbed with fasteners being run through a rock/brass tumbler to ensure ZERO dirt, grime, and oils were removed. It was by far the most extensive NC30 build do this date. I venture to fine another with over 4 years of labor on a daily basis at 8 to 14 hours per day.








the rear subframe and rear fairing were constructed by me with only one purchase, the tail light.
















































Many of you have not seen the bike that now resides in a museum as a queen center piece that 100% finianced my Porsche
















and another that I build from a box of scraps










So, all this will ensure that the painted pockets on my Porsche will be top notch, and even thinking of doing the center portions of the dish and perhaps the center console to mock up the Porsche F1 console when I get my seq gear shifter.


----------



## FLYONWALL9




----------



## FLYONWALL9

Well, I have been told many times that 8's will not fit in the doors of these cars. Today was a proven fact, though I still have some spot puddy to work with around the rings and a few very minor dips and high spot ONE is all but finished. It will get primer and color coat as soon as our temps get back into the 70's. Proof positive that is CAN be doen with zero cutting to the door metal. Take it on faith or by my word it will work.... I still am going to need to glass the back side of the rings so fear not.

To be able to do this until 3am with a broken hip, several cancer spots removed, and a few other health issues. Proves with enough positive enforcement ANYTHING can happen...


----------



## CA4944

Those pockets are looking really good. Just the right shape to match the door, I think. 

Take care of yourself: your motivation to finish this will still be there, even if you pace yourself to heal!


----------



## Wesayso

Wow! those have really taken shape! Keep up the work, you'll get there soon enough. This is the year you will have some tunes in the car I'm sure...
What happened with your hip?
I like the bikes, especially the black one. There's something classic about that one. I never owned a racer like that, my girlfriend did though. I was more into the custom Harleys . I'll see if I have a pic online. It's been a while though, didn't have a digital camera back then.


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## jorgegarcia

Love the bikes, love the car. I admire the resolve to see this install thru, I would have given up by now.


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## FLYONWALL9

jorgegarcia said:


> Love the bikes, love the car. I admire the resolve to see this install thru, I would have given up by now.



jrogegarcia,
I have often contemplated giving up due to one reason or another. Its people here that keep me going, quite honestly. Through all my many health issues, set backs and franlely lack of motivation. Its people that have graced these pages that have kept me going. I'm quite sure that if you get your own build going you will find just as many positive (and not so many) that will pull you through your hard times. 

Above most what kept me going was the fact that those offer that what I intend to do simply cannot be done. The 8's in the doors which will not require me to cut any metal, those that say in no way would I do something like that to such a nostalgic car. those that say 10's in the place of the rear seat, which I have followed in the footsteps of others, or the fact of running kick panels which will without question be in the way of my foot room. Above all, I have proven every single person wrong. This has been the mantra not only with car audio but through out my military career. Not one person thought I would make it to the most elite branch of the Air Force. 

So, no matter what ANYONE says to you achieve your own skills as I have, I am self taught and I promise you from time to time you will fowl up but in doing so you will learn more than if someone were to teach you. And if all that fails and you can afford to house me, being disabled with nothing but free time between dr's appts. I would be MOST happy to help you! That is a very real offer one which I have NOT made here or any other board. But the offer stands. If you get in a bind I would gladly help you!

all the best in your endeavors, and I hope that you may take me up on my offer because it is VERY RARE.
cheers,
Scott

EVEN if your project isn't one of car audio install I would be happy to spray your bike, if you own one. that is if you give me creative ability...

SORRY FOR THE LONG WINDED REPLY. IF YOU HAVE READY MY REPLIES YOU HAVE COME TO GET USED TO THEM


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## FLYONWALL9

Hey guys, hope everyone had a great week and looking forward to a great weekend.

So, I have to things to offer, some GREAT news and some NOT so great.

I'll start with the great because its progress I could not have made without a great friend of mine. I'll simply give a list of what it was we were able to get done and follow that up with photo's in a day or so we have LOADS of rain on the way and sprinkles now.

SO, here we go.
The entire car has now been sound deadened with tiles and one layer of 1/4" foam. Pulling seats out of these cars or the 87 is VERY hard. I've taken out engines in Honda's in less time. So, the way we worked around the cue was pulled it from the car cleaned it hourly, put in the tiles and then foam. So I do still have MLV to go just not sure if I want to go the route of using the two part PVC type adhesive.

We also were able to fix both door locks NO sort task these days because Porsche redesigned the locking rock made of plastic. Along with that we took apart the drivers side power seat switch and cleaned the contacts and have it about 50% working I think I have one bad switch, the one in the front. While I as at all this I stripped ALL of the metal trim from the rear of the car along with door top trim of both foam and clue. I then covered it NOW that I have my "TORCH RED" material. It looks FAR better to the eye or mine anyway than CANCAN. DID however like the burgundy shades I was just worried about how they would soil over time.

NOW THE BAD..... Because of my finder binder and saving all my pennies during the Christmas Holiday I didn't buy many gifts AT ALL. Only spending less than 100 bucks on only the closest friends, I really do not have any family. I did feel bad but at times you just have to do what you need to. AND I NEVER ASK from money from any of them....

THE BAD PART is shortly over 900 bucks was take from my account. the bad thing is it was from a place which I did buy goods. So the proof process will not take weeks but perhaps a month or more. What this does is because the lady I was in the accident with (me hitting her) only breaking the glass on my headlights dinting my headlight rings.

SO, WITH these events I am going to have to sell some things in hopes of replacing some of the missing funds and HOPE to stay away from jail.

he list PLEASE NO LOW BALLERS OR FLEA MARKETEERS. this gear though isn't new in age I would not be scared to shoot photo's from any angle and even shot it in a comp car..

TWO PHOENIX GOLD XMAX 8" (YES THE ULTRA RARE)I honest do not know when I have seen a pair of these not just here but for sale. You see 10's and 12's quite often. and I would put them head to head with any 10/12 sq wise! Least a year perhaps more.(I could be wrong) These were used in my personal car NOT A SHOW CAR they were NEVER abused and I would rate them a very solid 9.5 if not perfect 10. I'm sure I have one of the boxes unsure of the other. THESE SPEAKERS ARE heavy having the same baskets as the 12's of the day best I recall. If not I would say they are damn close. I would want to keep them together so as to not slip the pair and its new owner would be amazed at what these woofer can do. THEY ARE VERY SERIOUS SQ woofers. I wish I could take less but bottom dollar is 200 and buyer would need to pay actual shipping of your own choice.

next I have a pair of A/D/S p450 (I think they are) plugs are PERFECT! one does show some rash due do my Nephew I let borrow it for only 3 days after I saw what he did to it. I LIKE TO KEEP all my gear as perfect and new as possible. I pride myself on that! 75 bucks

lastly is another amp just like it however I would rate this one easily 8.5 perhaps even a perfect 10 I would need to really look at it I haven't in a couple months. Due to the and I know YOU WILL NOT BE DISAPPOINTED will also throw in IXOS rca's if ONE person buys both amps, These were the HIGH dollar really large diameter 8 channel units and are very soft and flexible. I will also throw in a 4g or 1/0guage IXOS smoked fuse link. THIS is also the GOOD stuff. I would have to say this part is a string 5-7 PERHAPS 8-0 If I can clean it up good enough. We all know we can polish plexi and I am very good at t so no fear! This am I honestly is with 150 with everything I am giving along with it. Its a smokin deal REALLY. if you don't want all the IXOS stuff which honestly is NUTS because this was before the mass produced stuff of today. this is HIGHT end stuff people.

AND QUITE HONESTLY I am trying to stay away from a title loan place with such a rare and costly 911. Its really quite sad, I've done rather well on my budget since my disability but this was a blow I have really not dealt with very well. I always seem to make do with the grace of good, and well I only drive about 18 miles per week so my cost of living is rather low. Only going to my Dr's and to the grocery one and a while.

I posted this here because those that come here to read my update I do consider my friends and really would love to see these items go to folks I care about rather than just putting them on the classifieds. 

thank you one and all for your consideration and I will hope to have photo's up really soon so we can HOPE to get moving on the MUCH NEEDED sale. I HOPE someone can use this stuff. WOULD put up pix now just honestly don't have the heart for it.

thanks one and all and God bless. I hope you all have a great weekend.

SCOTT


----------



## FLYONWALL9

FWY, I do not know of any other woofer that can use a smaller sealed enclosure. At the time I think it was (GRIZ tech guy at Phoenix) or someone like him said you could petty much must fiberglass the baskets and get breat repsonce. They are truely an amazing speaker that I hate to see go but they must.

Lastly I also have Phoenix Gold TBAt never used but i do not have the other part for testing. 45-50 bucks 90-100% PERFECT SHAPE

and a new only used once Planet Audio PEQ100 zero flaws, I was told this thing should sell for 100
master volume, fader, aux input, subwoofer, low, mid, high, subsonic filter, and sub gain... GREAT PEICE... Just never had a unit to use with it.


----------



## Wesayso

Sorry to read about your bad luck streak recently. Hope tings turn around real soon. I can't help you by buying stuff I don't need though . Maybe there's something in here for Howling, as he was looking for A/D/S/ gear.

Glad to also read you're still making progress. Can't wait for those pictures... get them up!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> Sorry to read about your bad luck streak recently. Hope tings turn around real soon. I can't help you by buying stuff I don't need though . Maybe there's something in here for Howling, as he was looking for A/D/S/ gear.
> 
> Glad to also read you're still making progress. Can't wait for those pictures... get them up!


THANKS buddy I really appriciate the words of encouragement, they do help. Not near as much as a couple grand but hey. Your thouhs wiith me are much needed!

I will suely post up photos once I can, I am NOW having to use WIFI at Mcdeez BECAUSE the home unit is out. So once I have it running I will show all what we have to sell here. 

IF YOU WOULD please contact the member you know and let him know what I have they are both 4CHAN one in like new shpe and I am willing to bet with the type of work I can do on motorcycles I can get the other just as clean. And i will enclude all that rare wire and fuse holder. the entire lot! Its hard times and when those happen I wold MUCH rather pass on thigs others would really enjoy and these will surely pust a smile on someones face. They are UNREAL SQ qualty type amps made back when stuff really wsa the goal to sound proper.....

Thansk for your help and I hope he is willing to purchase I'm sure they would go to a great home IF you know hime


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Well, 
being that we all like to see progress I will do so before I try and
hock some goods. Honestly, I have never asked to sell items on 
this board so rep power, dunno what that is. All, I can say is I 
stand behind anything, I do, say or sell. I would simply NOT list
it if it did not work. NOW that is not to say some one may get it
and smoke it. So, don't try and return an item to me which smells
of smoke because they simply do not now. HATE to be harsh but
facts are these are KILLER pieces, well to me I think they are and
reasonable prices.

So first we have the driver side door pocket 8 its about 98% complete.
I love doing things they say cant be done. I still have some spot filling
prime and paint. but fit is as per the stock panel could not be more 
pleased with it, that is unless I didn't have to build another. Everyone
will understand the handle better once I have the other two parts of the
door card. But for trial now I have the same handle and pull on the drivers
door been working like a champ for 2 weeks I think.



















Lets start with the amps. As you can see one looks PERFECT, the one with the
plus not in it are in a box with the IXOS 8chan wires that come with it. And any
of the other IXOS stuff you wish except the CRAZY expensive speaker wire, that
is going in the Porsche.




































Even the worst of the two isn't bad. If you were to show them you could EASILY
do so from either side or stack them. I still think the correct match paint and you
wouldn't be able to tell.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

This guy shows ZERO wear on the face and the norm on the top and back. It
should not be an issue. It also looks like one of my past installers hacked off
the power wire. Easy fix, I can or just leave it up to you. I know no doubt this
joker worked because I put it in my Pops RangeRover so he could see what 
new stuff REALLY can do.


















I tried to capture what looks like a scratch but INDEED is a very small blond
hair. A joke from one of my last installs. I honestly don't want to remove it 
because I do not want to nacker the screw. I'll leave that up to you. PROMISE
it is NOT a scratch I was able to push it around with my finger.


















I think you can tell by the condition of these screws I didn't see much use









but it did get a love tap, again SUPER easy fix.

I think you guys know the deal. I wouldn't sell any of this stuff if I HONESTLY
did not need the funds.

OH tomorrow the pics of the ULTRA RARE no haggle on price at all 
PHOENIX GOLD XMAX 8's... In a hatch, small car, or truck I have honestly
never heard a better SQ woofer. THESE ARE PERFECT and I know I have 
one box SEARCHING for the other..... 

thanks guys for looking here. I did not want to offer this on the open forsale
forum until I gave my followers first dibs... Props!!!

thanks all,
Scott


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I CANT BELIEVE none of you have said anything about all this good stuff.....

IT SHOULD BE NOTED UPS said shipping weight for them both is at 13lbs ech....


Well, here we have them. The ULTRA RARE Phoenix XMAX 8's. I cant think
when the last time I have seen these let alone in this kinda shape. 10's and 
12's I often find but its something about the rare 8, to me the best sounding
of the 3. The enclosure they take is well NONEXHSTANT, and given the right
power and placed where you can hear what they are doing and not over 
excursion YOU WILL LOVE THEM! nuff said pic time
cheers,
scott


----------



## FLYONWALL9

and now the second one.


----------



## howlndog

Fly,

I modeled those Phoenix subs in BassBox Pro last night. They model very well (sealed or vented)! Check your PM, good buddy, and let's get these off your for sale list


----------



## FLYONWALL9

howlndog said:


> Fly,
> 
> I modeled those Phoenix subs in BassBox Pro last night. They model very well (sealed or vented)! Check your PM, good buddy, and let's get these off your for sale list


GOOD NUFF FOR ME BUDDY....

*SOLD TO HOWLNDOG!*


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Well, I have had no action on the rest of my goodies for sale other than the XMAX's. So, I'm going to post them on the for sale section with a price increase. Those guys don't know me from ADAM and you guys were to get the "DEAL"

WISH me luck and please send folks my way who may e looking, it would greatly help.
cheers, scott


----------



## Wesayso

I allready did send ya somebody right? Sorry that I don't need anything else. Now that I'm pretty satisfied with my new tweets I can get back to building my home speakers. I'm sure that will cost me a bundle... I have all the speakers and EQ (50 x vifa tc9-fd 18 08 and Behringer DEQ) but still need to do all the wood work.

Just noticed I seem to 
be liking Vifa/Peerless 
products
:thinking2:


----------



## veleno

Amps are nice and thin, not to mention the price seems good as well.

I'm also liking the door enclosures. I have a pair of enclosures coming my way for the rear panels, I think they're 8" in each panel. We'll see how that works out.

GL with everything!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

factory panels with 8's in them? now that will be a first for me. most of them I have seen have 3ways that i know of. be sure to throw up some pics.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

GOOD NEWS GOOD NEWS... My Pathologists gave me a clean bill of
health this time with 0 cancer cells found... ROCK ON...

now its time for a pack of PallMall no filters, gallon of Black Russians and
a big greasy cheese burger.... WHOOT


----------



## Wesayso

That is good news! Congrats!


----------



## subwoofery

FLYONWALL9 said:


> GOOD NEWS GOOD NEWS... My Pathologists gave me a clean bill of
> health this time with 0 cancer cells found... ROCK ON...
> 
> now its time for a pack of PallMall no filters, gallon of Black Russians and
> a big greasy cheese burger.... WHOOT


GO GET THAT FATTISH BURGER... YIIIIIIIIIIIIIIHAAAAAA!!!!!!! 

Really good news 

Kelvin


----------



## howlndog

Fly,

Those Phoenix Gold Xmax subs arrived this week, safe and sound. They are beautiful! I think they are going to be perfect mounted in the front truck of my 911S.... can't wait for spring.

Thanks for the great deal.


----------



## kenikh

howlndog said:


> Fly,
> 
> Those Phoenix Gold Xmax subs arrived this week, safe and sound. They are beautiful! I think they are going to be perfect mounted in the front truck of my 911S.... can't wait for spring.
> 
> Thanks for the great deal.


And here I thought I'd build the first longhood Ess system in this forum...


----------



## howlndog

kenikh said:


> And here I thought I'd build the first longhood Ess system in this forum...


Oh don't worry. At the speed Ive been moving you will be done years before I'm half finished.


----------



## kenikh

You haven't seen my car. I cut the RS flares off (PO disaster) and have yet to weld the stock flares on. I'm waaaay further away. That's why I love this thread: progress.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I finally found my case for my Ipod that I got for my shop. This is a SUPER COOL piece that keeps out not only water but shop fallout, BONDO dust, fiberglass, resin, yadda yadda from getting all mucked up in the Ipod. Its really neat how this thing works, if anyone is looking for a case for a boat or even to usee when swimming like I once did this is the ticket. It does allow full function as if it weren't even in a case. ITS BADASS....


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I discovered which grit looked best for a brushed look on my old scratched, gnarled, ratty looking ES system. Seems a damn shame to use those words to describe a Mobile ES system but I guess being the original owner sense 1991 or so I'm allowed some battle scars.  The hardest part was painting the freaking logo's back on it.
I started with some OLD 150grit I had laying about to get some of the deep marks out. then on to 280 and ended up with 320 wet. It proved to be more tedious than I expected. You simply cannot have any angle at all to the paper or it will look off. I've seen people make jigs in order to keep the block straight but I just did it by hand.



















So, later on this week I'll be back on the door panels. I've been contacted a couple of times by the shop that wants to take on the all red interior. "They are ready" lol.. 

hope all you lads are doing well......

Scott


----------



## Wesayso

Looking good! Can't wait to see the red interior...
I'm surpriced to see the logo's are not red .


----------



## Wesayso

a bit of inspiration to keep you going...


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Your killing me!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Though its not an update of this thread (waiting on a 3/8" belt sander) 

My shop fan was looking, well, like ****! So I decided to bling it out. This was the first time I mixed my own color and it came out exactly like I wanted. Now I'm not so scared to mix a factory color. All the bright finish started off brushed so I polished that. the blades were dull brushed, so I made them look like brass. The center emblem was just bla. So, I polished that painted it to mimic a distressed finish. I call it PIMP MY FAN. LOL...


----------



## jpeezy

two four channel arc audio minis,low current draw,and they may actually fit under the pass. seat in that car,i have worked on many of the old porsches,great car,you can do some 6" or 8" subs in the rear seat footwells,i have and works very well. this car is one of my favorite years and body style,solid car.nice find i am jealous.


----------



## Wesayso

Good work! This way you can keep your head cool while working on your system


----------



## Mless5

Can't roll with out a pinstripe yanno?!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Mless5 said:


> Can't roll with out a pinstripe yanno?!


and u know this.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> Good work! This way you can keep your head cool while working on your system


Yes sir....


----------



## FLYONWALL9

jpeezy said:


> two four channel arc audio minis,low current draw,and they may actually fit under the pass. seat in that car,i have worked on many of the old porsches,great car,you can do some 6" or 8" subs in the rear seat footwells,i have and works very well. this car is one of my favorite years and body style,solid car.nice find i am jealous.


Thanks for the reply... 

Yeah I've seen many amps that would fit nearly any place in the car along with countless subs placed where you discribe. I'm the guy who doesn't walk behind others, maybe my path isn't the fastest or the best. But, one things for sure its different. If you didn't start at the beginning of the thread check out the COOL gear going in the car, stuff not offered today but gear sold near the time of when the car was made. That was the basis not only for the system but the car. I wanted one of my dream cars from highschool, check.. I wanted the head units which many have been measured, check. and so on. I just gotta put the pieces of the puzzle together. Unfortunally for me I am not able to work at the speed most people on this forum can these days. Sooner or later I will hear it and I'm sure it will live up to everything I ever hoped. 

Stay tuned and thanks for visiting...

Scott


----------



## FLYONWALL9

To all the nay sayers, here it is, you can fit 8s in the doors of a Porsche...

I started sanding down some of the rough stuff, before I took off too much I took it out to see where I may need to take off and where I shouldn't. Looks like I'm pretty close on the first try. I love it when a well thought out plan comes together.

BOOM.....


----------



## FLYONWALL9

kenikh said:


> You haven't seen my car. I cut the RS flares off (PO disaster) and have yet to weld the stock flares on. I'm waaaay further away. That's why I love this thread: progress.


Do you still have the flares? or where they totally nackered? I've been THINKING about doing flares on mine from time to time. And other times just doing flares like one would see on the Yellowbird.

Speaking of Yellowbird, I hope ya'll have seen this?

Porsche Porsche - eBay (item 120876585663 end time Apr-03-12 19:11:26 PDT)


----------



## ek9cv5

Awesome looking porsche


----------



## howlndog

Scott... that is beautiful work. I would love to squeeze 8" drivers into my door and maybe forego a boot mounted sub. Luv it!

Ever thought of making molds to fit a LWB car with RS door panels? 

d.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

howlndog said:


> Scott... that is beautiful work. I would love to squeeze 8" drivers into my door and maybe forego a boot mounted sub. Luv it!
> 
> Ever thought of making molds to fit a LWB car with RS door panels?
> 
> d.


Thanks buddy....

I'm not so sure of putting an 8" sub because it would need to be sealed. I'm not saying you couldn't because with some metal cutting (just to widen the hole already in the door) you would need to fiberglass the part that sinks into the door. Those XMAX 8's have been put in doors b4 because Phoenix Gold did it. They had those in the doors and a Cyclone in the trunk. I cant recall what kinda car though.

As for the molds. No I hadn't thought of it because so very few of us REALLY like car audio so the market isn't that great. I am however in the process of making BETTER fiberglass hard tops for targa's and have some folks already wanting to buy them.

I could/would build you a set like mine if you want a pair though. Sense you said for an RS or LWB 911, I'm guessing you don't want a pocket? If not that makes it even easier! I could make you a set within 2 weeks pretty easy. All I would need to know is if the speaker hole in the door is in the same place. But if I can fit an OZ 8, I'm pretty sure I could put nearly any 8" midbass with no problem. You just tell me what 8 it is you want to fit and I'll make them! I could do it two piece so that the enclosure or baffle screw into the door card from the back. This way you could either paint them to match the outside if the car, carpet, or cover then with vinyl.

But yes without question I would build you a set!

cheers,
Scott


----------



## Wesayso

FLYONWALL9 said:


> To all the nay sayers, here it is, you can fit 8s in the doors of a Porsche...
> 
> I started sanding down some of the rough stuff, before I took off too much I took it out to see where I may need to take off and where I shouldn't. Looks like I'm pretty close on the first try. I love it when a well thought out plan comes together.
> 
> BOOM.....


Great stuff! Can't wait to see you fit the drivers and test them... I hope your mirrors stay on, mine dance to the music with the HP set at 80 even with only 6.5" midbass. They go wild if I lower it to 63 . What's your desired HP filter on these?


----------



## Wesayso

howlndog said:


> Scott... that is beautiful work. I would love to squeeze 8" drivers into my door and maybe forego a boot mounted sub. Luv it!
> 
> Ever thought of making molds to fit a LWB car with RS door panels?
> 
> d.





FLYONWALL9 said:


> Thanks buddy....
> 
> I'm not so sure of putting an 8" sub because it would need to be sealed. I'm not saying you couldn't because with some metal cutting (just to widen the hole already in the door) you would need to fiberglass the part that sinks into the door. Those XMAX 8's have been put in doors b4 because Phoenix Gold did it. They had those in the doors and a Cyclone in the trunk. I cant recall what kinda car though.
> 
> As for the molds. No I hadn't thought of it because so very few of us REALLY like car audio so the market isn't that great. I am however in the process of making BETTER fiberglass hard tops for targa's and have some folks already wanting to buy them.
> 
> I could/would build you a set like mine if you want a pair though. Sense you said for an RS or LWB 911, I'm guessing you don't want a pocket? If not that makes it even easier! I could make you a set within 2 weeks pretty easy. All I would need to know is if the speaker hole in the door is in the same place. But if I can fit an OZ 8, I'm pretty sure I could put nearly any 8" midbass with no problem. You just tell me what 8 it is you want to fit and I'll make them! I could do it two piece so that the enclosure or baffle screw into the door card from the back. This way you could either paint them to match the outside if the car, carpet, or cover then with vinyl.
> 
> But yes without question I would build you a set!
> 
> cheers,
> Scott


On a LWB car with RS door panels I'd use a thick spacer ring to fit an 8" mid bass to the door. Use the MDF or other material(*) speaker baffle found on pelican (the one I have in my doors) and make a speaker ring for the 8" and mount it with seperate holes to the MDF baffle. You just need room for the woofer to breathe and enough room for the magnet structure. Increasing the existing hole helps of coarse with breathing into the door. The plus is you don't have the electic window motor in there. But how much room does your manual window lever need?
Just make sure you deaden the doors quite well to make it go low.
Maybe some scan illuminators would work without the need for a sub. They are very deep but only 7". Should be possible with a big spacer ring?
From Bikinpunk's klippel test:








These things are animals but usable even for a 2 way setup.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/klippel-reviews-driver-specs/115001-scanspeak-illuminator18wu-4741t00-klippel-test-data.html
A cheaper alternative could be the Vifa NE180W-4 or the Exodus Anarchy... both 6.5" with quite a bit of throw.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/klippel-reviews-driver-specs/120417-vifa-ne180w-4-a.html (maybe less suited for 2 way)
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/klippel-reviews-driver-specs/114921-exodus-anarchy-klippel-data.html used in 2 way more often
If I were to do it again I'd go for Scan Revelators in the doors (if they do well in a big leaky enclosure) plus the Vifa XT25 tweeter and still a sub upfront.


(*)= looking into making these from aluminum for my doors. The MDF versions do suffer after repeated removal. HDPE could also be a good option.


----------



## derickveliz

FLYONWALL9 said:


> To all the nay sayers, here it is, you can fit 8s in the doors of a Porsche...
> 
> BOOM.....


*Great job!*

I'm just curious how do you consider these, as Sealed? Vented? or IB? 

LOL

.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

derickveliz said:


> *Great job!*
> 
> I'm just curious how do you consider these, as Sealed? Vented? or IB?
> 
> LOL
> 
> .


You can see some 4 layers that make up this part of the panel. I still have one other layer to add which is the door car. Most all that will be cut away. Then I may or may not add a cone type structure to the back of the panel above to make it a sealed enclosure. I'm not sure if you know this but in the factory door pocket a small plastic part goes between the arm rest pocket and map or side open pocket. I remade this out of 1/4"mdf and glassed this in. This divides the speaker pocket from the armrest pocket. If the OZ speakers need more air I could always drill out the divider and seal off the armrest giving a great deal of air space. So, I have a ton of flexibility in this config.


----------



## Wesayso

If you can fit it get a 4mm layer of MLV between the speaker pod/doorpanel and the metal on the door. Maybe even a thinner layer of ccf underneath to isolate it from the metal. 
Like this...








_Not a light weight option though_
I'd opt for sealed without using the door space itself, does that work with the OZ speakers?


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> If you can fit it get a 4mm layer of MLV between the speaker pod/doorpanel and the metal on the door. Maybe even a thinner layer of ccf underneath to isolate it from the metal.
> Like this...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _Not a light weight option though_
> I'd opt for sealed without using the door space itself, does that work with the OZ speakers?


Yes sir, I'll be using 1/4"ccf behind the door card as is on the rest of the car. I've never gone to the extent of sound supression in any other car or install. I hope that my efforts are worth the end result.

The OZ 8s are free air like my Quart 8s. I purchased this config so that I could try each to see which gave me the sound I like. My money is on the Quarts for fast tight mid bass, where the OZ should give more low end. I think anyway.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

So I hope to put a guide coat on the panel today to see where my dibs and soforth are to fix. Then it is onto highbuild primer and paint. No doubt by Sunday at the lest it will be in color. In no way am I going to get it to fit any better than this. The fiit at the bottom of the door is dead nuts. and where the 8 meets the dash is deal on the money too. I have just a bit more sanding in that area to clean it up and give it room for the leather when I wrap my dash. So it doesn't squeek. I hope you cats like this progress. My neighbors were throwing rocks at my shed at 3am til 530 so I took a doughnut hole break and let them eat breakfas and got back atum. :laugh:

So take note at the top of the pocket, good and level so the arm rest doesn't sink in. Handled that little tidbit.









I still have some final sand around the speaker hole, seems my grill has grown some, so its out with the angle grinder and some dentist bits to knock those down.









Check out the bottom of the panel where it meets the gasket. That is NOTHING but money! Door opens and closes with ZERO RUB. you kinda gotta look close around the bottom where the gasket meets. Its pretty freaking perfect. 

I still have to go through the MASs of doors like this that I have to see if I am close enough or should I make some adjustments in a few places. 

Hope everyone has a HAPPY FRIDAY THE 13,

CHEERS BUDS,
SCOTT


----------



## n_olympios

Lol that grill looks massive in that door!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Hells yes, that is a Hibachi Grill


----------



## FLYONWALL9

n_olympios said:


> Lol that grill looks massive in that door!



I'm really hoping some that iit will blend in a bit better when I 
paint match the lower panel and cover the mid and upper panel
in red. 

I'm still torn weather or not to use perf leather in the center 
part and regular on tthe upper larger part? Whatchu think?

Also, how would it be to put a body panel "Porsche" or "CARERRA"
in that middle part just about the arm rest. Part of me wants to 
break up all that red while the othe part may think its a bit too much?\

INPUT??


----------



## Wesayso

I'm really really happy to see you exited like this. That can only mean one thing, your satisfied with what you have created. Part of me is jealous, that 8" is going to give you the kick that I am missing...
You have to excuse my post, I am drunk right now but I mean well. ;-)
I'd go with black/red but you have seen my car (lol). All red could be a bit much. What happened to the silver from your outer body color? All red is too much for me.
I'm glad to mix in red with black in my case. I wouldn't use decals inside the car unless they are different shades of the same color. Like matt on gloss, that type of thing.
Then again I wouldn't trust someone as drunk as I am tonight, I had a fun time with some friends. I'll respond some more when I sober up ok?


----------



## n_olympios

Perforated leather looks great. 

I don't know if I'd put a panel with Porsche or Carrera in there, but perhaps you could raise the letters behind the leather. That way it would still have a bit of show without being completely "in your face". 

BTW, I meant that in a good way, about the massive grill.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

You guys crack me up... I think I'll just keep the colors a 
secret or maybe we'll place bets. Winner gets a free preamp.

Olymois,
man if its one thing you will get from reading all thsee 13 pages
of stuff. I don't get mad at people over the net, too many factors
go into what someone is saying or trying to get across. Reason
why you will always read into something I say but always get out
the same. Its all gravy in Scotts hood! Just glad to still have people
follow this after its been SO long. 

Wes,
MAN, I hope you had a drink for me. I couldn't tell you the last time I was able to have one. NOT FAIR!


----------



## Wesayso

FLYONWALL9 said:


> Wes,
> MAN, I hope you had a drink for me. I couldn't tell you the last time I was able to have one. NOT FAIR!


Well I do have to pay for it... you know how it is


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Well friends things are really moving on this panel. It looks like I may be able to shoot it with a high build primer today! I'll do a thin coat of black or whatever I have that is nearly empty and see where my high and low spots are. My guess is very few as many times as I have gone over the panel. But you never know and when you strive for perfection on a painted surface EVERYTHING will rear its ugly face. 

On a seperate note: yesterday I met a really nice guy who wants to help me fix all my little dints and so forth on the outside. So, the outside will be PERFECT! The best part is he is going to TEACH me how to pull dints, proper fairing, and block sanding. I'm good enough to be VERY dangerous but showing the outside as much love as the inside is getting should put this build over the top..... STOKED! 

LOOK FOR COLOR BY END OF SUNDAY!


----------



## 2wheelie

Really awesome build and an even more awesome car. That's really cool of the guy to teach you body work too.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Well I suffered a set back the sander that I have and need that gets in very tight corner took a dump on me. So, I had to take it back, then get a call from a buddy that has a LARGE AC for my shop. He wants to give it to me because I gave him motorcycle tires for his sport bike. The tires were just sitting in a closet for a could years. Now I have a 16,000btu ac in a 12x20ft shop! NO MO BALL SWEATIN DAYS FOR THIS GUY!!!!!!! Now if I could rig up my vac system to keep my air quality up to par I would be able to spray more motorcycles.... SWEET! Heck I wanna go hang it now and get to work. But I cant lift it on my own with my broken back. DAMNIT MAN


----------



## FLYONWALL9

SO, once again I cannot sleep. I feel from neighbors, its time for tire up my new corner cat and this this damn thing done. Too bad I can do a live link. I would live link the work as I bust it out. That would be so cool.... So a little something different I think I will do hourly updated photo's or between restroom breaks.  So, grab some coffee or a coke and stay up with me.

Cheers guys,
Scott


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Ok gang so the first update 12:25am. The corner cat made fast work of the areas i couldn't get to with the sanding tool I made. A rounded over piece of mahogany with sticky 40grt paper to give me the rounded over edges all the way around the part.

The picture you see with my finger in it is one of the only areas left I have to fair out. then it will be guide coat. So that will be the next set of photos. Guide coat and sanding it down looking for low spots.










This is looking down the lenght of the bottom of the panel I had a NASTY DIP in it from something but I think I have it sorted.









This view is looking where the panel meets the dash. I have less than 1/8" of a gap at this point to save on rattles. Also note the little lip for a single screw in the corner.









Also, you can note that I left the grill in and blondo over it. I just thought it would make the over all grill size look a bit smaller and not so much like a pie plate 









I do wish these updates could be live it takes as much or more time to do the updates than working on the car.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Ok gang check back in a bit I'm about to mix up some sticky stuff and sling it around a bit.

So now that the bit of filler sets up I thought I would pass along a tech tip. One that you will
thank me for IF you buy this product. 

DYNA GRIP extra strengh professional grade POWDER FREE EXAMINATION GRADE GLOVES.
I get mine from O'Reilly's Auto Parts for about 17 bucks. You can get two to 4 uses out of them
before they are shot. Just pull them off and blow em up to right them again. These closely 
resemble the gloves I used when I was a PJ and had to work on people. Due to the strengh
of them. We have been known to wear them under out flight gloves and fast rope with them
that should tell you how strong they are.

Waiting to sand, should I get pics of the area's I just faired??? COME ON SOMEONE HAS TO BE
AWAKE......


----------



## Coppertone

I'm here with you as I am sick as a dog and can't sleep.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

So when I get this close to the end of the fair process I like to use a something to mark what I can easily see without a guide coat. I circle that area and make sure I mud it over pretty good. Most of these are scratches left over from using my home made tool with 40grit paper. Price you pay when you want to make dust fast. and before the material is fully cured.




























here i covered an read where the factory used rivets to attach the front of the arm rest box. I think i had them smooth enough without doing this but being an abnormal material I fear they would turn out overly glossy vs the rest of the panel.









some glass weave was showing in this area so I knock them down and fair over. 









this is a VERY critial area, where the door pull and handle will be so extra attention paid here as all eyes will see this spot looking for the handle.









Again with the door pull but up at its top. this is a MUST be perfect area and my first attempt. I will be putting the handle on once this is dry enough to make sure I didn't build the material too high. it should roll smoothy from the painted part to the handle. to give it a nice facory/custom look.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

AND GOOD MORNING FORMER520 thanks for sharing your morning (I guess) where ever you are... 

cheers.
scott


----------



## FLYONWALL9

So, I took the door handle and sprayed it black where I have to cut holes where they wll be attached.
This is where the large triangle part goes in.









and this is where the metal bracket will go through the panel and attach directly to the metal in the door.. I was going to just attach it to thiis THICK door card but I know chics LOVE to slam door.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

COPPERTONE, sorry to hear bud... Guess you should lay 
off that bottle of coppertone, it goes ON the body not in
fellah... 

Currently cutting all the holes for the door handle. I get to 
use a new tool that is the FREAKING BOMB... 90deg air grinder
and I have as many bits as a dentist. Pics in just a few, hang in
myfriend... Hope you get to feeling better soon...

This hole for the bottom of the door pull proves more than I thought. I am 
gong to have to relieve some of the space from that wall you see in the pic
with the black paint so that it fits flush. I triedk to just HAMMER DOWN with
some nibbler bits but its kinda like a bull in a china shop... be back in a bit.


BE A HELPFUL CHAP AND RUN IN THE HOUSE AND GRAB MY OPIUM PILLS 
WOULD YA.. OLE BACK STARTIN TO GET STIFF.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

ok so this stage is a real *****. I am going to post pics of what I'm dealing with so you all can see. the tools I'm having to use, REALLY COOL and I hope the outcome will be the handle sitting flush in front of the pocket. I also have to run out to the car and get the arm rest to make sure of alignment. oh and if any of my spelling is off. piss on it. lol




UPLOADING NOW::::::STANDBY


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Ok so in this first pic you can see the little gap I am having to deal with. it would fly no prob if I just put a piece of felt under it to keep it from squeeking but I'm looking for perfection or as damn close as I can get it. 










the hole i bored with the sharp looking cone bit you see in the block of bits. BADASS TOOL HERE









This was shaved with the bit that looks like a round over cone second row, second from the back.


















just a couple of the sledom used tools that I planned to use on this go round because they don't get enough exercies and they are dangerous... gotta flirt with it from time to time. Wear your safey glasses here kids


----------



## FLYONWALL9

OK GUYS, lets have some input so I don't think I'm playing fiddle by myself... Let me know how you like this panel fit... Keep in mine nothing here is screwed down.


----------



## n_olympios

Very nice! I'm here, although "here" time is almost 11am.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

n_olympios said:


> Very nice! I'm here, although "here" time is almost 11am.


THANKS BUDDY ITS 2:55 HERE still haven't had the PD called on me... YET, its comin though.

so you think the gap at the bottom of the door pull looks ok or should I keep trying to remove material. knowing if I take too much I start this crap all over again. but its the game we play isn't it.


----------



## n_olympios

I think it looks fine as it is. Judging from the pic and trying to imagine it with the leather in place, it'll probably be great. However, only you can tell how close it will be after trimming. 

Also, the door pull has to work as well, so it'll probably need a bit of slack. 

Edit: on second thought, you may have little space for the hand/fingers to get behind the door pull easily. I can't tell how much space you have to play around from behind (hmm that doesn't sound good  ), but if you could make the slope a bit steeper on the baffle, it'd probably be better. Just saying.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

n_olympios said:


> I think it looks fine as it is. Judging from the pic and trying to imagine it with the leather in place, it'll probably be great. However, only you can tell how close it will be after trimming.
> 
> Also, the door pull has to work as well, so it'll probably need a bit of slack.
> 
> Edit: on second thought, you may have little space for the hand/fingers to get behind the door pull easily. I can't tell how much space you have to play around from behind (hmm that doesn't sound good  ), but if you could make the slope a bit steeper on the baffle, it'd probably be better. Just saying.


This apart I'm working on will get paint matched to the car, so sliver. that is why i think it has to be extra perfect, ya know....


Well, I'm gonna throw in the towel for the eve, my back is really starting to hurt and it will take
about 80mg of opium to recover enough to work on it later on today...

thanks everyone for sticking it out with me. been fun doing hourly updates... I think a first for 

DIYMOBILEAUDIO.....


----------



## n_olympios

If it's going to get painted, then it does need to be perfect. Let alone silver, which shows all the imperfections. Good luck with that. 

Sleep well.


----------



## Coppertone

Well I hope that your back feels better, and thanks for sharing your work.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Coppertone said:


> Well I hope that your back feels better, and thanks for sharing your work.


Thanks for that Coppertone. Its messagse like that and this great commuity that keeps me here. As a 100% disabled person my ability to work as long, or as often as many of you simply isn't possble. Trust me, I see my car every day and get the itch so bad to work on it. Mostly because I want to share with folks like you those uf us whom were damaged doing out duty, we can get alone geat witih the proper hand full of meds!

That is why throughout my build you'll be hard pressed to find a conrnever being crossed. One day remeind me and I'll send you links to my boat build and motorcycle build that I did for my "rehab" I hated going to have some chic rub on my back and ****. Give me something that I can get pleasure from and move able. That is how you recover.

THANKS FOR SPENDING YOUR EVE WITH ME, and fell better soon.

Scott


----------



## FLYONWALL9

n_olympios said:


> I think it looks fine as it is. Judging from the pic and trying to imagine it with the leather in place, it'll probably be great. However, only you can tell how close it will be after trimming.
> 
> Also, the door pull has to work as well, so it'll probably need a bit of slack.
> 
> Edit: on second thought, you may have little space for the hand/fingers to get behind the door pull easily. I can't tell how much space you have to play around from behind (hmm that doesn't sound good  ), but if you could make the slope a bit steeper on the baffle, it'd probably be better. Just saying.


Olympios,

The panel is really hard to figure out what is going on. Had I not amassed 
a few hundred photo's before undertaking this mod i would have stuck with
the ole simple looking factory panels. These will looks light years better from
an audio stand point but without question I am going to get bashed by the
community. Its just the nature of the beast with 911 owners. they seem to 
think the only music needed in a 911 should be the engine.

I researched many hundred 911 installs and they were so "cookie cutter"
everyone had the same ole same ole speaker placement. I am an out of
the box kind of guy even if that means my thoughts take years longer. 
Granted if I were in fair health this install would take me at the most a
month. That is back when I did it for a living after my service years.

So below I'll post a bone stock door so you can see a side by side comparison. 
This would really help as to where I'm headed. See the cars that use this type
of panel came stock with a 3 way in the location of my 8. Why those people 
wouldn't even think of doing a killer 6 x 9 subwoofer just blows my mind.

You bring up some GREAT questions! Although I think I addressed them when I was hashing out the design to see if it would even work. The main issue I had was the ability to wrap your hand abound the handle pull. If not the whole thing is shot without being started. So, I got lucky and went to a Porsche Drivers Event where I got to sit in and pull on many handles, to build great muscle memory and from that I could figure out that gap between the pull and my glass part. THIS WAS A HUGHT make or break deal. This pull to me is what makes the panel work. No there Porsche pull looks look because of the shape of the enclosure. I tried many years. Then the fact that, though the panel had 3 different major parts it didn't seem as if any of them were at right angles to any of the rest. This means I didn't have to really layout the part and build it in a jig to keep it SQ.

I could NOT find an "easy way to build the thing" I couldn't come up with a wire frame and then just stretch fabric of some sort to get that organic look. If I had a source for clay, that would have been the bomb. So many pages ago you could see I started off as thought I could do that by suspending the driver in place. That is where it all ends. The rest of the lower panel had to be shaped like a surfboard. So, no matter what they aren't going to match. I'll get it close but that's it. And if the car ever gets judged I'm sure I'll get hammered on that. Or just rear naked choke the judge, whatever may come first. lol

So here are a couple panels so you can see where I am headed. Just remember that from the pocket down will be paint.

This should give a better idea, PLEASE don't take this as me thinking your thick and just don't see it. I completely understand. I went around for MONTHS hashing out in every way if it would work. and if my colors would work tougher. The best examples I have are red but These were the ones I dug up kinda fast.




























LASTLY I'M VERY GLAD YOU BROUGHT UP THIS ISSUE, I'M SURE MANY PEOPLE DIDN'T WANT TO ASK. 

I just wish I could have made my point and explain it in such a way as to not write a book about it. But after this you be dangerous. SO PLEASE DO NOT KEEP BRINGING THESE LIKE THIS TO MY ATTENTION, I COULD VERY VERY ESILY OVERLOOK SOMETHING ON THE MEDS I TAKE AND YOU COULD SAVE ME A GREAT DEAL OF MONEY....

tHANKS FOR ROUGHIN IT WITH ME THIS EVE,
Cheers my friend,
Scott


----------



## Coppertone

One of the hardest things when when do work is doubting ourselves . It seems that what makes us end up buying and swapping out equipment as we do. The first couple of my systems made me happy, but then I joined this site, and I don't have one single piece of original equipment left. Now my problem is that I have too much equipment lol. When my foot was crushed and I was played up, all I ever did was map out to me the perfect car for my needs. Alas being inactive like that had me going through three new cars in less then two years. At least you are beaten the odds and putting the rest of us to shame as far as not letting a physical disability slow you down. Bravo to you sir, bravo...


----------



## Wesayso

FLYONWALL9 said:


> OK GUYS, lets have some input so I don't think I'm playing fiddle by myself... Let me know how you like this panel fit... Keep in mine nothing here is screwed down.


Sorry to have missed your session. Seems like I missed a lot!
These pictures look promissing... I'd try leveling the top of the map pocket with the door handle pull. It seems just a bit high in your pictures compared to the examples posted. It's only a mm or 2 though. Although the transition from the door handle to that map pocket lid looks just right.


----------



## n_olympios

FLYONWALL9 said:


> But after this you be dangerous. SO PLEASE DO NOT KEEP BRINGING THESE LIKE THIS TO MY ATTENTION, I COULD VERY VERY ESILY OVERLOOK SOMETHING ON THE MEDS I TAKE AND YOU COULD SAVE ME A GREAT DEAL OF MONEY....


I guess you're using a phone for these replies, autocorrect can be a ***** sometimes eh? :laugh:

Anyway, I LOVE the way you pay attention to detail. It's my own fetish as well, along with safety (quite easily shown in my own thread :blush: ) and IMO it's what makes a great install. Let's not forget that the primary use of cars is to drive them, and for that they need to be completely usable and ergonomic. This door pull and the way you've gone at it is a great example. Let's put aside for a moment the fact that "ze germanz" had it the wrong way back then, and it's easier to use the off-side hand to open the door; in all honesty you've done a great job making sure that it's easy to use. Keep up the great work! 

I'm also sorry to read about your disability, and let this be an incentive to all out there who think that they don't have the strength to cope with stuff. 

PS: you can call me Nick, saves the hassle of trying to spell my last name correctly.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

ahhhhhh, no, i prefer to own a DUMB phone. the smart ones i've had dont hold a charge, I cant feel the numbers to send a call in the dark or without looking, you now stuff like that. I just took my laptop to my shop, and linked it of the wifi of the house. seemed to be the easiest way.

oh and good deal thanks Nick...


----------



## FLYONWALL9

n_olympios said:


> I'm also sorry to read about your disability, and let this be an incentive to all out there who think that they don't have the strength to cope with stuff.
> 
> PS: you can call me Nick, saves the hassle of trying to spell my last name correctly.


Nick..... Good day friend.



Though I appreciate your accolades I should probably explain those disabilities because I'm the fortunate one. 

my back accident happed while working, a steel cable that carried the load of a 300ft barge gave way and did so in the place where I was standing. It whipped me across my lower back just above my belt buckle and just below the life vest I had on. So, pretty much my T-shirt protected my skin. The barge was loaded with riprap, a 300-800 pound rock pieces that we were offloading. As the barge was being shifted the cable that I was near was put under tension forcing the barge to move on opposing forces. The neglect or sheer negligence of the person whom put the rear cable on the barge is the reason why it came off its "timber head" under EXTREAM tension. 120 ft of this cable gathered like a large bull whip and hit me all at one time while I was turned away. I was picked up and thrown 30-40 ft, upon landing I jumped back up and ran to the center of the barge. I didn't know if the barge was coming apart or what, the safest place is away from its edge. Negligence made my accident far worse than it ever should have been. Loading me up in a regular pickup truck and carrying me 20 miles to the hospital was one of those. Having been trained in the Air Force as a first responder, expert extraction and evasion skills, I was not listened to when I was giving directions on how to care for me. Movement of my body severed key nerves in my spine one of which controls bowl movement and overall bowel health. In the months to follow I was diagnosed with Crohn's disease having found a 8" hole in my intestine hours before going into septic shock. Hole repaired I have sense had that same operation 3 other times. 

Though my event was very unlucky it isn't anything like those who have limbs taken from them. They are the reason why I fight my fight and train for triathlons and one day hope to be the first active Crohn's patient to run an Ironman. 

I just wanted to clear up that my disability though very bad IS NOTHING like what I call someone that is disabled. Please do not take this as a hand slap, I appreciate your acknowledgment.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> Sorry to have missed your session. Seems like I missed a lot!
> These pictures look promissing... I'd try leveling the top of the map pocket with the door handle pull. It seems just a bit high in your pictures compared to the examples posted. It's only a mm or 2 though. Although the transition from the door handle to that map pocket lid looks just right.


You have a GREAT eye my friend! I was wondering the very same. Here is the odd thing. Looking from inside the pocket the material I added is at the exact height. Perhaps the wrap that the factory does makes leveling possible? Mine as one looks at it seems to dip either end? Is this what you also see? I will draw a level across it and see what may need to be done. As I put the lid on and even screwed it into the end I notice it closed perfect. I still have an issue with handle cradle if I can be so bold as to call it that. It appears as though it may sit a tad high because the screw hole in the back of it doesn't line up with the pocket hole oppisite wall. I think you will get my meaning here. This is the abs part that ALWAYS seems to crak in everyones car. I'm thinking about getting loaded up on my meds, once they kick in so that I can work go out and take a peek at what is going on.

ON the plus side I had a friend give me a HUGE ac for the shop. So I can work in total comfort! YEAH FRIENDS!! I was a dumb ass and did the install myself though, I couldn't wait on anyone to come help. So, as per my motto; do the damn thing youself. lol... 

cheers buddy have a great week, get that kid to swim school on time! I want to see a new generation of Michael Phelps.


----------



## Wesayso

That's exactly what it looks like to me... it doesn't apear to be the handle, it looks like the front corner of the pocket is a bit low. They have to line up to make it pretty if you paint the pocket. 
From looking at the factory stuff a bit more I think you're on track that the wrap used to take care of that. I like the total look of your panel with the more modern door pull though! This is going to work out fine!
Is there a small difference between the original door pull and your later model version?
Hope you figure it out, you're getting close to getting this perfect.

Take care and do take pictures... one from a bit distance would help us help you .


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> Hope you figure it out, you're getting close to getting this perfect.
> 
> Take care and do take pictures... one from a bit distance would help us help you .


LUCKY ME, I have not done anything but put the speaker ring on the other panel yet. Guess you could look at it as luck but on the other hand that means I have to STILL do all this to the other one. I did note EXACTLY what your talking aout. Not to figure out a fix so that I take off material where its needed and not any from other area's. That is the hard part. I do have a rasp or two and a smallish hand plainer that I have never used... That could spell DANGER WILL ROBINSON!

On the plus side the new AC in the shop is the pure bomb. Its a toasty 68deg inside the shop and over 80 out.... cozy for this polar bear.... I love the cold, so when you wanna trade living spots let me know.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

ok my good friend. I think I have the photo's which explain it all. on the left you see the panel which I have yet to fully start on. On the right the one at its end (I hope). Both as you can see have the dips in them. Now when they were on the car they didn't show any signs of the lid folding back into the panel as you see on doors which are used a great deal. IMHO the lids sat perfect. I will have to go through my archives to see if this is the case. Perhaps I even have that documented in this thread. Its been so long sense I have gone back to look at all the meaningless junk I've posted I couldn't tell you. ... 

THANK YOU FOR BRINGING THIS TO MY ATTENTION. As you know this could have been a bad dream if after all this work the pockets had that major malfunction...... GOOD CATCH. now I will put them together and on the car to see what happens. You want a shot of that?
Cheers,
Scott

GUESS IT WOULD HELP TO ATTACH THE PIX.... DUH...


----------



## FLYONWALL9

HERITAGE: Something that is passed down from preceding generations; a tradition. Its my heritage that compelled me to join our armed forces, to do something with so few people in it that we nearly know one another by first name. To get up and do a job knowing it may very well be the last time we see one another, to enter a situation where chances of life and death are a real endeavor. Its not the things in our past that we may or may not feel reflect on our person, but those who went before us knowing they did so with one commonality. "ITS THESE THINGS WE DO SO THAT OTHERS MAY LIVE"










My new to me organizer. I got this for my father when I got back from my very first deployment with the promise we would use it for many years to come "TOGETHER"
Now I see it first thing when I open my shop to do work....... Hope you all like and see the semblance.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

So its about time to put this panel to bed. this is the guide coat which will tell me if and where items may need to be addressed. Lets hope for few and far between. I'm kinda sick of looking at it. I had this feeling when I was fairing my boat. ......


----------



## FLYONWALL9

4/16/2012
Well, that's it gang the first high build prime coat is on. I found 1 are where I ended up sanding though my thin fiberglass layer that will need to be fixed with filler once the prime coat cures. I hope by then I will have my pain med's in on the 22nd. I've been working with a pretty high pain threshold pulling though on will alone. Will, has only gotten me so far. I admit defeat at this point. If I could only go back just a few years and take all those accidents back both as a service member and the capper of it all, the barge. .......

Thanks for following to this point.
Scott




WOOT WOOT, NOTE, I just passed 20,000 views  I feel special


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> That's exactly what it looks like to me... it doesn't apear to be the handle, it looks like the front corner of the pocket is a bit low. They have to line up to make it pretty if you paint the pocket.
> From looking at the factory stuff a bit more I think you're on track that the wrap used to take care of that. I like the total look of your panel with the more modern door pull though! This is going to work out fine!
> Is there a small difference between the original door pull and your later model version?
> Hope you figure it out, you're getting close to getting this perfect.
> 
> Take care and do take pictures... one from a bit distance would help us help you .


Ronald, 

Do the photo's I posted above for you answer the question. I really do not know what to do about it. I almost thought about takeing some 1/4" stainless steel molding and using that as a lip to reduce the look given by the raw material. Now that I look at all the photo's I have all of them you see the vinyl has the curve to it making the panel itself look straight. OR AM I COMPLETELY MISSING SOMETHING?


----------



## Wesayso

FLYONWALL9 said:


> Ronald,
> 
> Do the photo's I posted above for you answer the question. I really do not know what to do about it. I almost thought about takeing some 1/4" stainless steel molding and using that as a lip to reduce the look given by the raw material. Now that I look at all the photo's I have all of them you see the vinyl has the curve to it making the panel itself look straight. OR AM I COMPLETELY MISSING SOMETHING?


Yes, this is what I expected to see. I'm not really sure about the best way to "cure" this problem though. The vinyl would hide it but painting it would show what we see now. If you can line up the door pull lever with the top side of the map pocket the pocket lid will do it's job hiding this in plain view.
But how do you line up both without adding material to the front side of the pocket?
You only need the imaginary line to continue of the map pocket to the door pull lever. Maybe the easyest way is to shave the door pull lever? It looks like you have a metal version, not the plastic crap I have .


----------



## sydmonster

, keeping an eye on this.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Checking to see how everything fit before I move onto final fairing and paint.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

sydmonster said:


> , keeping an eye on this.


Thanks for the visit Syd.


----------



## metalball

Absolutely love these older Porsche body styles. Would give my right kidney for a late 80s 911.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

metalball said:


> Absolutely love these older Porsche body styles. Would give my right kidney for a late 80s 911.


You may be in luck my right one isn't in such good shape... :laugh:


----------



## Wesayso

No luck for me... my left kidney is the broken one...


----------



## howlndog

metalball said:


> Absolutely love these older Porsche body styles. Would give my right kidney for a late 80s 911.


Then, imagine what you would give for an early ('69-'72) one .

Great work, Scott... I can't wait to see those panels mounted!

d.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Ok gang we are getting CLOSE. I have my first coat of base on waiting to cure for 20min and back at it. Going for 4 base 5-6 clear. reason for so much clear is I am going to have to use it to help me finish fairing it out. I don't have the best eyes so I just have to get it as close as I can.

here we are after first round with the tack cloth. I don't have a proper clean 
room and I damn sure don't feel like building a small paint booth for this project.
I tacked it down with 2 cloths about 4 times. Goodnuff for Govment work.













































Paint supplies, NOTE the IPOD in its shop protective cover. Gotta have paint
tunes. Helps with arm rhythm.


----------



## n_olympios

GREAT Scott! 

I guess you get that a lot.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

n_olympios said:


> GREAT Scott!
> 
> I guess you get that a lot.



LOL, NO, you would be the first.... and that's no chit.


----------



## Wesayso

Can't wait to see this get finished, hourly updates? Not going to stay up though... 
Great work Scott! 
This is going to mix well with the red leather...


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I'll go snap you a photo of the first coat of clear. My plan is to use a couple thick coats of clear as my last fairing. Then I'll shoot two more coats of color then clear. I had that paint and body dude give me this tip. He said it would help it match far better. who am i to argue. BRB


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I know these coats are THICK AS CRAP. Its mant to fill small scratches I couldn't see along with little holes and such. They will sand out nicely and it will all end up gravy.



















just turn your computer over for this one don't have time to rotate


----------



## Wesayso

Looking good! I remember the pictures of red/silver porsche's we looked at, your's is going to fit in .


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Yes sir, I remember that car. I even have the photo saved so when I turn it over to the guy that is doing the seats, and the rest of the int he will have something to go by. Still trying to figure if I want to wrap the top of the dash or not. I'm thinking of leaving the center of the dash black or something black because you cannot remove the A Pillars, as you know. He says he can still do it but I know it would be a pain in the butt. I also think I am going to leave the roll bar hoop black but he will have to rewrap that because it has sun damage. 

BUT, your spot on, I think its going to look kinda retro, kinda new kind of like a GT3 with painted center console like they did in the real GT1 SUPERCAR. You'll have to google it. That is the center console I'm going to build because I'm putting in a sequential gear shifter that will be very close to the steering wheel. PROJECTS PROJECTS PROJECTS. 

on the plus side, I've gotten some new found momentum thanks to you and the rest of the gang egging me along. It really does help when you have so many people telling you how nice its starting to look. And I haven't even gotten to the really trick parts of the install. The amp rack and subs are going to be SICK. But you would NEVER know they are in the car unless I showed them to you. 

So, thank you all for your encouragement!


----------



## Wesayso

This one? The first GT1 (the one with the round headlights) is still one of my favorite Porsche's, but the 917 will always be a bit higher ranked for me .
I'd leave the dash black but the area under the clocks (were your ignition key goes) red or silver. Maybe silver with the knee bar red?


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Thanks for that photo, up, that is the one. I think your right with the colors on the dash too. I wish I knew how to photo shop to work it out and see how it turns out b4 hand. or find one that is already done like that.


----------



## subwoofery

Wesayso said:


> This one? The first GT1 (the one with the round headlights) is still one of my favorite Porsche's, but the 917 will always be a bit higher ranked for me .
> I'd leave the dash black but the area under the clocks (were your ignition key goes) red or silver. Maybe silver with the knee bar red?


Upfront sub and horns FTW with the interior  

Kelvin


----------



## FLYONWALL9

wet sanding and checking grill fitment


----------



## FLYONWALL9

subwoofery said:


> Upfront sub and horns FTW with the interior
> 
> Kelvin


Lord that would be a chin buster. lol


----------



## Wesayso

FLYONWALL9 said:


> wet sanding and checking grill fitment


Nice, can't wait to see them hanging on a door...


----------



## FLYONWALL9

WE NEED A VOTE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ok I have found myself TORN.. I got the new door handles because I thought they may look better. Now I am not so sure. Another thing that has me all twisted up is the amount of the panel that is painted. I almost think that if I just painted the center strip along with the center strip of the dash that would look far better.

As for what I would do with the already painted part. I would either carpet it like the factory panel or cover it in red leather like the rest of the car.


----------



## Wesayso

A strange request from me first. Could you close the door and take a picture from the other side with both handles? make it wide enough to see the dash and most of the door...
I'll make a comment about my opinion in about 8-9 hours, gonna sleep first (lol).
But I'd like to see how it "flows" with the dash inside the car before making up my mind.
It will look way different though with the red leather above the silver.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

not a strange request at all. I see what your wanting to get at. Whatever we come up with I am going to have to make the carpet the same color as the bottom of the door I think or else it will look like someone with a HUGE nose. lol not that anything is wrong with that

OK so here it is up close with the kick first. I can already tell I am going to rebuild the kicks. I just know I can do better and as you know I'm the type that if I can do better I will. It would look much better if I just didn't stuff it in and took the time to screw it down but still I'm not all that happy with them.









How is this for speed. lol. 
I only have an 18mm lens so this is as far away as I can get it to look.


----------



## sydmonster

NICE! I think they BOTH look good, but prefer the first handle, the one that runs horizontally. Not sure what you call it, but to my eye seems to flow better. 

BTW - amazing work! This is probably the most entertaining build right now? no? I mean the constant updates are appreciated but also the banter you guys are having,...


----------



## FLYONWALL9

sydmonster said:


> NICE! I think they BOTH look good, but prefer the first handle, the one that runs horizontally. Not sure what you call it, but to my eye seems to flow better.
> 
> BTW - amazing work! This is probably the most entertaining build right now? no? I mean the constant updates are appreciated but also the banter you guys are having,...


Those are the handles I got just for this build, I thought the same as you. But after seeing both I don't know its just they both go well and I cant really make up my mind ya know. 

THANKS for saying this may be the most entertaining build right now. That kinda makes me wanna go back out and work on it even at 9pm. Many times I cant sleep and I'll go from 1am to the break of day because of my health I spend so much time inside. So, I'll look for a change of pace. One of the reasons why I have worked on it so much lately. Even though it KILLS my back and I'll spend the next 12 hours recovering. 

I know the build has gone on for freaking ever and most people here would be well done by now. But, when you take serious DOPE! it can get dangerous to even run a sander. lol... Nothing like getting in a fight with a power tool, because you always know who is going to win............ 

The thing is to me, this isn't even going to be the most entertaining part of the build. When I'm done with the front (and I keep saying this) but that is where the really cool stuff is going to happen. I have some really cool tricks and pieces I want to build for the amp rack, custom distro in the shape of the Porsche crest out of aluminum, processors in the floor, trick wiring. All those things to me are what is fun and not so labor intensive. 

here is a teaser for you and I'm not even sure if I have posted this already. I redid the covers of the XES system to look more modern. It took a pretty long time to teach myself how to really get the effect I wanted. Then to buy and find special paint brushes to paint it. Just really cool, I like the detail stuff vs things like the doors or kicks. ANYWAY, that is my babble for the eve. 

THANKS FOR YOUR COMMENTS! MUCH appreciated indeed.


----------



## sydmonster

WTF!! Im freakin out... XES for the biggest win ever! Dayum!

Thank you for that pic, im assuming the brushed alluminium look is what your going for? if so they turned out factory good!!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

yes sir, that is the look I was going for. It did take a good bit of learning to figure it out along with painting the letters back like the factory. But it all came together. I've had this system sense they first came out in like 91 I think it was. Only system I have had, never wanted anything more or, less. Its been in many cars and was looking pretty raggid. The first time I redid it for this current system it came out great but thought I could make it look even better with the brushed aluminum look. I did try to polish it but the type aluminum the cases are made of I could never make it look even. Below is a photo of how it looked after it was painted. Still looked great but I wanted more.

painted










first attempt at doing the brushed finish.


----------



## Wesayso

FLYONWALL9 said:


> not a strange request at all. I see what your wanting to get at. Whatever we come up with I am going to have to make the carpet the same color as the bottom of the door I think or else it will look like someone with a HUGE nose. lol not that anything is wrong with that
> 
> OK so here it is up close with the kick first. I can already tell I am going to rebuild the kicks. I just know I can do better and as you know I'm the type that if I can do better I will. It would look much better if I just didn't stuff it in and took the time to screw it down but still I'm not all that happy with them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How is this for speed. lol.
> I only have an 18mm lens so this is as far away as I can get it to look.


What if....

You keep the silver on the pocket, red on the door skin and the part under the dash. Redo the kicks but with the tweeter toward the door pocket (rotate orange part 90 deg clockwise) and keep the shape of it same as now. Paint the (orange) baffle from the tweeter/mid silver grey. Use the new style door handle (you are leaving that black, I hope?) and black carpet for the rest of the floor/kicks. Leave the top part of the door black like the dash...

I think that will make it flow again. No silver in the dash except maybe the instrument cluster? Black knee bar flows with the door handle. Red leather flows with the under dash part, Door pods flows with kick panel baffle and center console, black door top flows with the black dash etc... are you getting a new steering wheel?

That way the speakers are all close together, the tweeters get blocked even less and it breaks your "nose". (b.t.w. I have a big nose, nothing wrong with it (lol))

You can always choose a black/red theme but then it will look like mine .

One more thought from me... the new door handle makes the door pod look a bit fatter, kinda like a Hayabusa .








_Nothing wrong with a silver Hayabusa_


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I keep going back to the photo you posted of the Singer. I originally thought would also do the center portion of the door card in perforated leather that I have for the centers of the seats. I like how they used perf material in the center of the dash on that car. I wish I could figure out what they used to trim the pocket and the dash, the silver metal. Do you know i you can buy that?

Its seeing photos of cars like these that make me want to do all of my interior in red or as much of it as I can. I have two HUGE rolls of red material, prolly enough to wrap both the inside and outside of the car says the guy who got it for me. Its in my shop and the damn things weigh a ton. So, its not a matter of that. It comes down to aesthetics. The more I look at the silver part of the door and how large or how much it kinda sticks out is my issue I suppose. This is where owning photo shop would REALLY help me out.



















How do you like these? I mean I know its my car and I am going to be the one to live with it. If it were a motorcycle I would simply just repaint it becaues that is easy to me and LOADS OF FUN. 

And by the way, my seat pattern will be changed from like what we currently both have to be more like these in this photo. I will keep the seats that came out of the car but my guy said he can change the panels to that of the above.

Almost forgot.... Yeah the handles will be rewrapped. If my cant do it perfect like the factory then I'll send them off to a guy I found in Atlanta Georgia he even says he can rewrap the steering wheel perfect. That would save me a great deal of money over buying and modding a wheel like the one in the newer porsche above with the silver spokes. though I do love those wheels.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> One more thought from me... the new door handle makes the door pod look a bit fatter, kinda like a Hayabusa .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _Nothing wrong with a silver Hayabusa_



OH SWEET BABY JESUS!!!! NO YOU DID NOT post a photo of a ruined motorcycle. I mean I'm no "BUSA" fan just because I'm REALLY not a fan of stretched swing arm bikes. I guess because I am a corner carver when it comes to two wheels. You my friend know this based on my old bikes and the ones I paint. Don't get me wrong, if it weren't for a Busa we wouldn't have all those cool mini Formula 1 cars and DP cars of which I do plan to build one of these days.  Prolly about the time you can take that boy of yours on a long trip and come help me break it in at Barber Motorsports Park!


----------



## Wesayso

I'm not a fan of the BUSA at all . But your pockets remind me of those in the silver color. I think the silver makes them stand out more (and look fat). If you don't do the dash I wouldn't do the top door bar either. 
Something like this (not a Porsche but close enough):










I can understand the all red theme (not my favorite) but you'd somehow have to include the dash and pillars for it to work?
Maybe cover the door pods in red suede? (Or flock them in fake red suede)

Have you looked on 911 / 356 Porsche Parts | Porsche, Wurth and Fuchs Wheels | Sierra Madre Collection for the trim material? And Porsche 911 Parts, Porsche 996 Parts, Porsche 944 Parts, 914 Parts, Porsche Boxster Performance


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> I'm not a fan of the BUSA at all . But your pockets remind me of those in the silver color. I think the silver makes them stand out more (and look fat). If you don't do the dash I wouldn't do the top door bar either. I can understand the all red theme (not my favorite) but you'd somehow have to include the dash and pillars for it to work?
> Maybe cover the door pods in red suede? (Or flock them in fake red suede)


Well, glad we are in the same camp on the BUSA! I was worried for a second. I think I may take some of the red material and just put it on the dash and take a drive one day to see if it bothers my eyes in any way. I would HATE to go through all that and that be the case. I am also agreeing with you how that panel sticks out to the eye, though the current color is a prime coat after I had way too much transparency. I have given thought to carpet like the photo of the panel earlier where it was black, though I would use red prolly and sew in leather along its edge, like welting. I had not thought about suede at all but that is an excellent idea along with some really short nap almost like velvet silver knit. I'll tell ya doing any of these ideas will surely cut down on any scuffs from feet or fingers as one pulls the door closed. I think I am slowly talking myself out of the whole paint idea. It would sure ease my nerves with trying to get the finish so very perfect. As is they would be covered with anything with really good success.

I do have a question for you that has NOTHING AT ALL to do with this. I'm good at flipflopin subject matter I've noted. 

How did you affix your MLV to your CCF? I realize the panels going over it will hold it in place for the most part. Also, how did you do your seams. I'm thinking of doing this even before I finish the door panel, just to step away from it for a bit. A break so to say.


BY THE WAY, this is the car I will be building. I've built a motorcycle, a boat from scratch, next is a race car after I'm done with this project. JUST to tempt you into a visit to the states.Palatov Motorsport - D1


----------



## Wesayso

I glued the MLV to the back side of the door panel, didn't find CCF so I made a maze patern of weatherstripping to decouple the MLV from the steel door.
What seems are you talking about? I have weatherstripping all around the door where the door panel lines up. I covered all holes in the door with aluminum and put a layer of deadening over that. All screwed so I can open it up again. Did you see the picture posted above?


----------



## FLYONWALL9

seams like on the foor to rear seat, rear deck to seat back, rear side quaters and such. Or did you only do your doors?


----------



## Wesayso

Porsche did it for me back in 1982


----------



## Midwestrider

Scott, nice build here started reading it last night and just finished. Sorry to hear about the accident on the barge but glad to hear you have all limbs and are still here. Secondly thank you for your services for our country, I commend you and the past and present men and women who have served this country.

Secondly nice work on the doors, slow and steady wins the race. Keep to you vision and see it thru. 
I'll have to go back and view the pics posted of the door card as you say are the "norm" vs yours with v1 & v2 handle.

Also if you still have those ads amps shoot me a pm with price.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Midwastrider,

Thank you sir. I will say it until the day I die, it was my blessing and honor to serve. No matter what kind of shape I am in to this day I would go back this very second if asked or called. It was or I guess I should say has been the best part of my life thus far. My only hope is more Americans start to feeling the same as you. 

The barge thing, just happen to be someone who felt threatened by my progress and though I was going to take a job I didn't want. I was perfectly happy with what I was doing. So, when we were at a job site that was the closest to a hospital when we tied off the spud barge to the load, he did so improperly. When the barge was shifted I was standing beside the piece of equipment he was operating. He looked dead at me as the shift began and was the last on the scene. I've always said it is HARD to keep a good person down. Though I may not be working for Martin Marietta still, I know and they know what happened. Bottom line is they own my medical conditions they caused until the day I check out. lol. "PAY YO FAIR" ;P

thanks for the compliments on the car. The boat I built from scratch took about this long so as for schedule I'm on par or so. the boat was far easier I think. It will get there, I just hope I keep it long enough this time to get sick of it.

Please continue to watch and contribute....
cheers,
Scott


*oh by the way I think I have the amps sold, I will let you know if anything changes. I don't expect it would but your next on the list friend.*


----------



## FLYONWALL9

So after some careful consideration after taking a break from this install for a few days that I would just start over. I'm not abandoning all my idea's rather to just restart in the rear of the car. This decision does not come lightly, its rather made me ill of the thought and kind of makes me feel like I'm throwing in the towel for defeat................ I almost don't even feel like posting this crap.

My plan is to finish the sound suppression in the rear by installing the MLV on the rear deck and rear seat backs and rear quarters. I'll then rather rapidly cut the rear deck and bottom of the amp rack which goes in place of the rear seat back. I'll add the sides and bottom which will give me the thickness of the amps and how far the sub box will come up on the seat back. I'll figure out how and where I want the wires to enter the amp rack.

I just think that by building something that will give me fast results will help me feel like I am making progress.


----------



## Z-Roc

awesome project


----------



## Wesayso

FLYONWALL9 said:


> So after some careful consideration after taking a break from this install for a few days that I would just start over. I'm not abandoning all my idea's rather to just restart in the rear of the car. This decision does not come lightly, its rather made me ill of the thought and kind of makes me feel like I'm throwing in the towel for defeat................ I almost don't even feel like posting this crap.
> 
> My plan is to finish the sound suppression in the rear by installing the MLV on the rear deck and rear seat backs and rear quarters. I'll then rather rapidly cut the rear deck and bottom of the amp rack which goes in place of the rear seat back. I'll add the sides and bottom which will give me the thickness of the amps and how far the sub box will come up on the seat back. I'll figure out how and where I want the wires to enter the amp rack.
> 
> I just think that by building something that will give me fast results will help me feel like I am making progress.


But you ARE making progress! Don't give up now, I'll never forgive you .
There's nothing wrong with the door pods. If You're up for it how about painting them mat black to see if carpetting would look better than the silver theme. If it were me I'd do the kicks and door pods in black. A suide like texture would be my choise (because I have a suede look dash mat).
The red leather on the doors, with the under dash area red too. Leave the top door bar black along with the dash. Maybe paint the instrument cluster silver if you want along with the center console. (not to much silver inside the car, don't make it stand out). Red seats too but follow this patern:

Black top (dash, door bar rear parcel tray (for lack of a better word from me))

Red center (door cards, seats and under dash area)

Black bottom (Door pods, kicks, carpetting, though red floor matts would be ok)

Silver accents (instrument panel of dash, center console, parts of your amp rack, door pull handle)

In that case the current door pods and kicks are going to look more than fine. I'd consider leaving the 993 door pulls black.

Finish your amp rack and get some music in that car, there is no bigger motivator than music. You won't miss the subs so do them last. Get the music playing! After you do that, then you can decide if you need to change the kicks etc. but you will know that this CAN and WILL deliver! I'm so jealouse about those 8" in the doors! They will make you feel the music. With proper TA and EQ you will be amazed what you can get out of that little car, trust me! Just make sure you put the subs where they belong, in the front booth!


----------



## howlndog

Scott,

Please don't throw in the towel. What you have accomplished is something to be proud of... the workmanship is beautiful.

I agree with Ronald regarding his colour suggestions. I think the silver door pockets is just too much of a good thing. A red and black theme (as Ronald suggested) with a few small silver accents would be the way to go, if it was my car. It would remain a very unique custom install, but still in keeping with the lines and proportions p-cars are noted for.

Keep it simple... and start cranking out some tunes!


----------



## Wesayso

Now he will have to listen to us... right Scott?


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Thank you both. I do get what ya'll are saying and agree. 

I just gotta work on a larger part of the car that will show me faster results. These small parts that take me HOURS to build really drag me down physically and mentally. Especially when something goes wrong with it. Which has reared its ugly head in the door panels. Not just in how they will be finished but somehow the freaking car shrunk and the dash is bumping the 8" enclosure. I fitted that thing no less than 30 times before I painted it and every single time it was about 1/2" from bumping the knee pad. Now the door wont close because of it. So, I just gotta step back before I take a hammer or grinder to it.


----------



## Midwestrider

Deep breath, if it takes a few days to not work on it then so be it. But I'll echo what others have stated don't throw in the towel. In that step back remember this is a hobby and most of do it for fun aebit it can get costly but it keeps us sane. Be thr trooper you've been and truck on.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I think everyone misunderstood me. I'm just going to move on to the rear of the car and larger parts which don't take so much going back and forth fitting them. I'll see faster results on those types of parts and be closer to listening to music. I have to have the amps and processors in just to hear the radio anyway. I gotta do it at some point anyway and the HEAT is almost here and its flat out crazy hot here. Those small parts I can take into my shop and do them in the AC 

thanks everyone for the words of encouragement. No way am I going to let a car beat me after all I've been through in my past!

Cheers all,
Scott


----------



## n_olympios

So... 4 days, no update? 

Slacker.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

n_olympios said:


> So... 4 days, no update?
> 
> Slacker.


Thanks for the visit Nick.

I am quite literally going through withdrawels. My pharmacy and the ones within 100 miles of where I live are out of my medication. So, I haven't been able to do a damn thing this week. Also we had 7 1/2 inches of rain in one day yesterday. Quite literally my car is flooded and will not start. I dried it out best I could and hope that it is not the computer. It seems like I cant win! 

I need some of Charlie Sheen's medications!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Well, after some serious sweating and 5" of water in the floor of my car. I got it all dried out and it still wouldn't start. So I took out the computer and took it apart. I then took it on faith that I could blow it out, dry it out. I put it back in the car and ZOOM ZOOM. She fired right up! Ya'll have no idea how relieved I was that I don't have to buy a new computer! That was a HUGE relief! Now maybe I can reschedule my Dr's appt and get a new set of medication. See, the stuff I was on I was able to work on my car without hurting for the next 4 days. Also when I was on that stuff I saw the last launch of the Discovery Space Shuttle, went to 2 AMA motorcycle races, and two Indy Car races. So, I really notice the less potent med's and how very little I am able to do while I'm on them.


----------



## n_olympios

Sorry to hear about your med mishaps, and congrats on the car starting up again!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

So, did any of you guys check out the "Super Moon" ?? I tried a little something new, I've taken a few hundred 
moon photos before but never tried with my telescope. I don't have a mount for it so I read where you can hand 
hold the camera to the eyepiece. It sure did take some getting used to but wow what a result. For some reason 
I cannot get it to upload to photo bucket correctly. I hope it works with the photo editor here



I DON'T UNDERSTAND. I need some help. The photo looks perfect on my end but when I try and upload it, it gets
all garbled. I've never had this issue.


----------



## Wesayso

What's up Fly? Any updates?


----------



## howlndog

Hey Fly - it's been a while. Any news?


----------



## fj60landcruiser

Nice build on a classic.


----------



## shaghan

Nice classic car.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Well, still taking time off and gathering up parts and selling off some things. Still waiting on my freaking interior guy to do something with my seats. I think the lesson learned here is to stop doing nice things for people who likely will not repay the favor. My health is been in the tank so I really haven't missed much aside from all the tropical storms, hurricane's, and freaking heat. I cant wait for fall and 60deg temps.

So, one of the things I have changed is how I'm going to do the doors. I got some 993 pockets. This will cover the 8's rather than mounting them in the panel itself. This will allow me to mount the speaker directly to the metal. This should give better response, I'm really not that worried about it. In all this should be lots easier and I'll be able to make both panels match much better. 

So as ya'll know this is the old panel









The 8's will easily fit behind this new pocket, you can see the cut out behind
to fit the speaker. I will have to widen that by one inch. The downside to doing
it this way is I will have to cut the door metal some. I wouldn't do this on a 
perfect example of this car, but this is a driver and besides I don't plan on 
selling it.


----------



## Wesayso

Glad to see you back here... So you're going to mount the 8" to the door frame and cover it with the 993 pockets? You better stuff the pockets with absorbing foam to prevent a hollow sound (just a guess). I had the original pockets in front of my woofers and it got me a big rise somewhere between 500-800 Hz. That's why I still haven't put them back.

[edit:] I thought I found my scource for harshness, still no luck there. I thought it was reflections of the dash but no luck. Just tried with absorbing egg crate foam and it wasn't the main cause.[/edit]

Maybe I need to step up to 3 way and get the crossovers out of that section. But where to put the mid and I'd need a different processor/HU....


----------



## FLYONWALL9

In building my last panels I separated the pocket under the armrest with some MDF and fiberglass. I think I will take the easy road in this one and use some foam. My idea is to make a foam block cut the hole for the cone and wedge it between the pocket panel and the speaker. Some sort of stiff two part marine foam that I can either coat in epoxy or just keep it simple and carpet it to kill any reflections. 

For your car. I always thought it would be a good thing for a 3 way front stage. I have been a fan of 3 ways sense starting to run them in the very early 90s around 92 or so. It is possible to run them all in the door, after all Porsche did in the 993 and the door metal is almost identical. If you didn't want to change the knee pad and door pocket. You can just mount them all on some sort of baffle. Sure you will need a new HU and EQ/processor but look at it this way. Sony XES has your name all over it or an Alpine F1. With your ability to tweak you would love either. You know I am a Sony fan and now being able to get them for under 500 bucks I don't think anything can touch it for that price. 

In sort if 3 way ever enters your thinking your already leaning towards the ability to adjust and tailor your TA/CROSSOVER/ independent level adjustment. It can only be better, you would love it! If I weren't so broke I would almost make you the deal where if you didn't like an XES I would buy it from you no questions asked. 

So maybe this will be my year. Maybe I can get this thing playing, I sure hope so.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Though this only took me about 45min to put 2 full layers of glass on, its still 45min to the good. This is going to be so much lighter than my other panels its going to be unreal. I'll sand this down, add some bondo then figure out if I want to paint it or wait 5 months (who knows) for my upholster to make the covers. I would do it myself but you have to sew the carpet to the vinyl. I've never been much with a needle. Cant believe how much resin has gone up 35 bucks for a gal at Home Dep, sheez.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I got some really killer news this morning from my upholster, my seats should be done on Wednesday of this week. FINGERS CROSSED....

This will be the goal for the doors and rear of the car. The rear will be slightly different because I have lots more gear. Rather than running rear fill I will mount my XES-X1 and XES-P1 in those locations. What would be the seat backs will be where I mount my amps. All together they take up nearly the entire wall. The doors and kicks are super easy. I'll get a friend to help me lay up the bottom of the sub box so my pots don't go off before the glass is laid.


I found these installs a few years ago and lost them, I just recently relocated them.
So this is it


----------



## tango_down

Great build Fly....Always loved the Targa Carrera.


----------



## schmiddr2

Thread cleaned up. Ready to move on. Keep on with your build.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

schmiddr2 said:


> Thread cleaned up. Ready to move on. Keep on with your build.


THANKS for your help schmiddr


----------



## Wesayso

Just in time for the update tomorrow?


----------



## FLYONWALL9

You will not believe this...

The voltage regulator went out in my alternator. You have had yours out so you know what kind of job that really is. I have AC on my car so that makes it just that much harder. While I have it off I've been cleaning everything in sight. I've wire brushed all the parts to near new looking. I should have the reg in this week, I hope. 

I have however glassed one of the new door pockets and it came out great. So, I should have an update on that. I'm icing down my back as I type this....


----------



## FLYONWALL9

So to remove and replace the voltage regulator on these cars its not near as simple as damn near anything else on the planet. I think the only other car harder than this would be a 914 where you have to remove the engine to do it.

The shroud has some damage where the last owner over tightened the band clamp. This is supposed to be pretty loose, in the end it cracked the fan and split one of the blades, a 500 buck mistake. The shroud I think I can fix by sanding it down and filling in the channel that the fan cut into it. It pretty much works like a ducted fan for an RC airplane. I'll have more photo's later, I know we have some other 911 owners reading this and they may benefit from them also.

I cant decide if I want to try and upgrade the charge wire from the alternator or not. The ground would be easily replaced, the charge wire is an all together new can of worms AND I'm not sure if this could do harm in some way. I don't see how but you never know about these cars.

Shows the band clamp









A few hidden bolts have to be removed behind the fan. You can only pull the fan towards you so far before the cables behind start pulling. Those are pretty brittle due to being 20 years old.









Here you can see how much room you have to work with. I found it easiest to take the AC compressor off the bracket in order to get the belt out of the way. This gave me another inch or so. The issue is, it will hit on the crank pulley, Porsche would have been best to notch the shroud.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Glass trimmed and ready for bondo. I'm still torn if I want to paint
or cover in carpet. If I do carpet I will have to have panels sewn,
and its been a real PIA to get the seats done. So, I can only guess
how bad its going to be to get that done. The bondo is drying and
I'll be sanding tomorrow. Hope also to have the parts for my alternator
in tomorrow.


----------



## Wesayso

Looking good, you can always paint them first right?
How did the seats turn out? Did you get them?


----------



## Noobdelux

great build, i bet it would be up to par with simplicityinsound`s work when you are finished with it. 

subscribing this as my step dad is wanting some work with his car later on.

ps how hard is it to remove panels in this car?

btw used abaout 2 hours just skimm reading this tread. : P


----------



## howlndog

Fly - good to see you are back, in full force.

You mentioned an upgrade to the charge and ground wires. Can you explain this a little?


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso,
Only think I am worried with painting them first is most of the glues used
that are strong enough to hold the carpet in place also have some sort of
solvent in them that will eat the paint. So, I would have to sand it all off before
gluing. Still haven't gotten my seats back yet, it is almost getting comical at
this point how long its taking. Needless to say this "friend" wont get any friendly
deals from me, its been well over 4 months now.

Noobdelux,
Glad you enjoyed the jabber and found it worth spending 2 hours on... The 
panels aren't that hard to get out of this car at all. For the most part screws
hold everything in place. No funky plastic bits holding things on. The only
PIA will be the lower dash. The only real hard part about the install is how the
seats are held in the car, those rear allen screws are real hard to find a bit
to fit, or rather shank short enough to get turns on it. Other than that just
tag and bag screws with the parts they are related to.

Thanks for the compliment. I'm not even close to as proficient as
Bing, maybe 10 years ago I had 1/2 his stills but I've been out of 
the game for way too long. Plus I cant contort myself like one must
to do much of the same kind of work. Thanks though....


Howlndog
In all my other builds I have always upgraded the charge wire from the alternator
to the main fuse panel or where ever it may run. In this case as I see it, leaves
the alternator, exits the fan shroud in the middle and heads up the drivers side 
of the car. The ground wire from the alternator is grounded to the center engine
half on one of the case bolts. I have just always made it a practice when adding
electronics to a car that weren't meant for the car to upgrade the small 10g wire
the factory uses to charge the battery and the rest of the car.


THANKS GUYS, HAVE A GOOD WEEKEND.
SCOTT


----------



## quietfly

Wow i just finished this thread from start to finish and i must say how impressed i am. I'm looking forward to seeing the fruits of your labor!!!


----------



## Noobdelux

well. (btw typing this at 0400 in the morning : P) my step dad got an 911 /3 i think, cant remember the right type now thoug, annyhow he got no clue to what you peoples are calling the smugglers hold, and his seats are automated so he cant have the amp under the front seats, so i guess we have to put it in the front boot. annyhow it might be a challenge to get the speaker wires through the front firewall i imagines.

hope this makes anny kind of sence.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Noobdelux said:


> well. (btw typing this at 0400 in the morning : P) my step dad got an 911 /3 i think, cant remember the right type now thoug, annyhow he got no clue to what you peoples are calling the smugglers hold, and his seats are automated so he cant have the amp under the front seats, so i guess we have to put it in the front boot. annyhow it might be a challenge to get the speaker wires through the front firewall i imagines.
> 
> hope this makes anny kind of sence.


Well, the smugglers box is where the AC evaporator is located. If you open the front boot in cars up to the 1992 or so or when ever the car was called a 993. So, it is a small square door. If the car has an AC in it then you will not be able to install a subwoofer in that location unless you loose the evap. 

Wesayco has an install in his 911 where his sub is mounted in this location. His amps are also located in the front boot. Check out his build thread, GREAT READ! 

As for the seat removal. Mine also has electric seats. I just stated it was a pain in the ass (PIA) if he wanted to install better sound deadening like most of us do. It is a worth while endeavor, not just for the audio install but to make the car more user friendly on long trips. I would say it nearly cuts road noise in half! 

For the speakers, I recommend simply using the wires that are already in the doors. This will be fine if he is using a component set, just install the crossover in the door pocket. Running wires in the doors of these cars is a pretty hard task. Most remove the door which isn't that hard. Just be sure to use fingernail polish or some sort of marker to mark the hinges so you can align the doors back in the proper location.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Today's update: PHOTO'S FORTHCOMMING
I spent about 3 hours sanding the filler and prepping the pocket for paint. I think I have it smooth enough for a primer coat tomorrow. I did a thin coat of spot putty to smooth out any sanding marks made by the random orbit. The final sand will be with 320 before the prime coat. While the ball games are on the primer should dry enough for a sand and 1st coat of silver on Sunday. I will also glass and bondo the drivers side pocket. My goal is to have paint on both pockets by the Sunday.

Next week will be building new kick panels. I'm going to remove the heater blowers from each kick and recess the 4" mid into the location where the blower would sit. The old kick panels I made are fine and my feet don't hit them but being I am not going to be using the Quart 4's and tweeters that I have I would have had to make new speaker baffles anyway. I've seen some really neat kick panels on the board lately and I hope to make a variation of what I have seen. The trick is going to be where to put the tweeter. Also the OZ 4's I have do not have grills so I will have to make them in such a way that a grill can be easily made. I don't want to get too fancy and take 3 weeks building the things. Just something simple and functional. Those will be wrapped in carpet that I have sourced out of the UK. Kits there are 1/3rd the cost of the kits here and they are all hand made.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

quietfly said:


> Wow i just finished this thread from start to finish and i must say how impressed i am. I'm looking forward to seeing the fruits of your labor!!!


Thanks for taking the time to read through the build. It will 
be worth checking from time to time. I have a few things I 
am going to do that I have not discussed that I am going to 
keep a surprise. I am more excited about them than nearly 
anything else in the build. It will be one of the most costly 
pieces in this install. I love custom parts.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Here we go
This is an almost complete mock up. The only thing missing is the mid panel. So, the door card will get covered in red solid leather, the mid panel will get covered in perforated red leather to match the center part of the seats. The bottom of the door will be paint matched to the car. I have some silver that was mixed that isn't a perfect match but should be fine for this job. The soon to be made center console will also get this same color.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I cant get photo's to load here or on PHOTOBUCKET. First 
time this has happened, whats the deal? I've also taken 
new photo's in the event the photo's were corrupted. Anyone 
want to host two pics for me and post them here?


----------



## n_olympios

Send them to me. olympios at talkaudio dot net.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

n_olympios said:


> Send them to me. olympios at talkaudio dot net.


Thanks for doing this for me Nick, they are sending.


----------



## n_olympios

There you go. I couldn't get them up in Photobucket either. PB made some changes lately, perhaps our issue is due to that. Biggest change is that they don't automatically resize the pics anymore. 

Anyway, Dropbox saves the day once again.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

You are the man SIR. *GREAT BUILD BY THE WAY!*

I did notice that PB wasn't automatically resizing. I have been doing it 
through the edit function along with doing any rotations needed because 
I do take quiet a few of these door panels vertically rather than landscape. 

I'll look into the host you used, I would sure hate to try and transfer all 
the photo's I have though.


----------



## n_olympios

Well Dropbox isn't meant to be used just for photos, it's mainly meant as a backup space, that automatically synchronizes every computer you've got it installed in. I use it mostly for work, but if all else fails, I upload other stuff as well.

If Photobucket works again I'll transfer your photos there and edit my post so they don't get lost.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

n_olympios said:


> Well Dropbox isn't meant to be used just for photos, it's mainly meant as a backup space, that automatically synchronizes every computer you've got it installed in. I use it mostly for work, but if all else fails, I upload other stuff as well.
> 
> If Photobucket works again I'll transfer your photos there and edit my post so they don't get lost.


ahhhhh gotcha... 

Yeah that would be great if PB gets sorted.


----------



## n_olympios

PB up and working again, previous post edited as promised. 

Also, thanks for the comment on my install, I just saw it. :blush:


----------



## FLYONWALL9

n_olympios said:


> PB up and working again, previous post edited as promised.
> 
> Also, thanks for the comment on my install, I just saw it. :blush:


 
Hey thanks for that Nick.

And your more than welcome...


----------



## Wesayso

FLYONWALL9 said:


> Well, the smugglers box is where the AC evaporator is located. If you open the front boot in cars up to the 1992 or so or when ever the car was called a 993. So, it is a small square door. If the car has an AC in it then you will not be able to install a subwoofer in that location unless you loose the evap.
> 
> Wesayco has an install in his 911 where his sub is mounted in this location. His amps are also located in the front boot. Check out his build thread, GREAT READ!











The famous smugglers box









The amp up there is powering my tweets though. 
More here...

There are enough grommets in the front firewall to get your wiring trough. I found one behind the HU that has RCA's and 4 speaker wires running trough them and another one behind the glove box is used for my power wire for the under seat 4 channel amp.
I rewired the doors by using the existing wiring to pull them trough. I just taped new wires to the old ones and used some valosine to pull them trough.
Later on I pulled an extra set for my tweeters by taping them to the woofer wires and gently pulling with a steel wire bent as a hook between the door - car to do one side at a time, first the door, make sure you have enough sticking out between the door and car by gently pulling the wire with the hook and then pulling them in trough the grommets in the car itself.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

So, I got some inspiration from LUNCHBOX. He is really rockin on his door build so I decided to go back out for another hour or so. I finished sanding and sprayed a prime/guide coat of high build primer. This allowed me to see a few spots that need attention that I couldn't see otherwise. You can see these spots in the photo's. Now if I were covering in carpet or suede this is more than adequate but I think I am going to go the extra mile and finish them like I have always thought they would look best. Silver paint to match the car. 

This photo shows the spot putty sanded off, if you look at the same photo where I just coated it you can tell just how much gets removed just to fill a few small spots. The largest amount left over along the bottom edge is VERY thin. I could sand through it in just a few minutes by hand. This stuff is very easy to sand, you could scratch it with a fingernail, dries pretty fast but not as fast as regular bondo. It needs a good night to dry before you really can work it.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

*USE PEEL PLY or equivalent when doing the next door panel to save from so much sanding.... Also, search for two part high build primer to fill pin holes. *

look close in these next photo's and you will see the items I need to address before I can paint with a high glass finish.




























This photo shows the rear of the panel, you can see it does have a bulbous not quite flowing. Also the rear edge as it starts to round over you can see sanding lines, I'll use a sponge and wrap it with sand paper to eliminate or reduce this imperfection. Also note the bottom edge has a hump. This is from the original panel under the glass. pretty much all these pockets on all cars have this. Its where the screws flatten and stretch the panel out of shape. Once I mount this to the door card I will sand both to match the bottom edge along with the front and rear edges. Still a good bit of tweaking, if I weren't so knit picky I would just let it fly. This is the Air Force in me, attention to detail. Anyone here remembers folding those damn T-shirts!


----------



## Wesayso

If you'are finished you can come over and paint my car .


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> If you'are finished you can come over and paint my car .


If you get the ticket, I'll be on the next flight


----------



## FLYONWALL9

howlndog said:


> Scott... that is beautiful work. I would love to squeeze 8" drivers into my door and maybe forego a boot mounted sub. Luv it!
> 
> Ever thought of making molds to fit a LWB car with RS door panels?
> 
> d.


Derek
Not sure if I ever offered here or in a PM. BUT, I would be more than happy to build you a set of spacers. My next step with the doors is to make a spacer to go behind these pockets. While I am making mine it wouldn't be that much extra work for me to just make you a set. They will have the shape just like in the above photo's of the 993. I could just simply make them to fit my old door cards, which are pretty much the RS cards with speakers holes already cut in them without a pocket. I would just make them out of 3/4" mdf and either glass them or simply coat them in resin so they wont wick moisture. I would use a piece of 1/4" mdf for the speaker baffle, so that you can cut a hole to fit the speaker you choose. 

I'm pretty sure you are going to say not to worry about it so I will stay on my project. But you guys know I'd be more than happy to help out other 911 owners while I have mine apart.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

DEREK,
Have you had the opportunity to hear the XMAX 8's that I 
sold you yet? You've been excited to ready my reports, I've
been excited to see how well you like them. Have you rubbed 
and played with them enough to wear off the finish on the magnet?
I cant tell you guys how much I have rubbed on my amps ~

Also, I was cleaning out the room where all my audio junk 
is and found one of the boxes. Would you like to have it, if
not I'm just going to file it away.


----------



## howlndog

Fly,

Sadly, I have yet to try those subs, yet. As you can see from the picture of my car, below, I'm a ways off from getting at the audio install. If all goes well, I should have the car back from the painter mid October. That would give me about 4 weeks to get everything back together.... weather permitting... winter's coming!

BTW, I would gladly take you up on your offer to make some spacers. Drop me a PM and let me know the cost... no hurries, though, as I don't want to slow down your momentum!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

okay here we go. This is the last coat of primer, I reached the point where if I kept going trying to get it perfect I would just keep screwing it up. It still has some area's where its not perfect but I think with where they are I wont notice it that much. 









So after I finished with my base coat I break out the clear only to find out I do not have any hardener. OH LOVELY!!! And by this time the paint store was closed, prime example of my luck. On the plus side the base laid down pretty flat, I only used about 2oz of base color. Once I put on the clear the flake will show up, this is the part that does not match the rest of the car and the reason why I didn't use this paint as touch up on the rest of the car. Now I just got to hope when I get more mixed that ole dude can match his fowl up.


----------



## Lunchbox12

FLYONWALL9 said:


> I know these coats are THICK AS CRAP. Its mant to fill small scratches I couldn't see along with little holes and such. They will sand out nicely and it will all end up gravy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just turn your computer over for this one don't have time to rotate


WOW! Super sexy! Great finishing skills.


----------



## ibf150

Very cool build man, love the Porsche.


----------



## Lunchbox12

FLYONWALL9 said:


> okay here we go. This is the last coat of primer, I reached the point where if I kept going trying to get it perfect I would just keep screwing it up. It still has some area's where its not perfect but I think with where they are I wont notice it that much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after I finished with my base coat I break out the clear only to find out I do not have any hardener. OH LOVELY!!! And by this time the paint store was closed, prime example of my luck. On the plus side the base laid down pretty flat, I only used about 2oz of base color. Once I put on the clear the flake will show up, this is the part that does not match the rest of the car and the reason why I didn't use this paint as touch up on the rest of the car. Now I just got to hope when I get more mixed that ole dude can match his fowl up.


Wow these latest iterations are amazing! As I went page by page on your build, the evolution to this stage shows your dedication to this awesome car! Can't wait to see more bro!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Thanks LUNCHBOX. I cant wait to have an 8" woofer sitting behind them!

I was able to get to the PPG store today and get some hardener for my clear. I have 18 hours to put it on the base coat I've already laid down, or else I will have to add more color. I could take the time and fix some imperfections but, I'm just going to roll with what I have. Its time to make the pods for the 8's! I'm getting stoked about that.


So, on page 17 you will see a photo of a car with the same idea I going with. They covered those with black material, I'm thinking of just covering mine in red. 

*WHAT DO YA'LL THINK?*


----------



## Noobdelux

darn, this looks good!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

So this represents a couple hours of work. Most of that was setting up my new 3hp 1/2" plung router to table router. I have a table saw that has a hole in it already for a router but the holes didn't line up, so I had to redrill some new holes and mount it up to the table. This was one of the tools that I got at a deal. I used this with a copy bit to make the other mid panel exactly like the 1st panel I made on the passenger side. I think this one was only 25 bucks or so. I also got to use my regular Craftsman router that I only gave 10 bucks for that was brand new in the box. I used it with my round over bit to round over the mid panel. After I sanded down the round over I checked to make sure it would look ok with what I already have. Below is the picture of the finished door panel. All that is left to be made is the speaker pod. I'll do those when I glass the pocket for the drivers door.










Still haven't heard from the trim shop on my seats, even though I called 4 times last week. I mostly just want to get the material from him so I can cover the panels I have already made.


----------



## Wesayso

This looks so much better! No more Hayabusa


----------



## Noobdelux

that is serious skills...!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

@ WESAYSO, no doubt it looks better! I bet I may have shed 2lbs or more from the last door panel to this one. The other one was much more solid though, we'll see when I get the pods for the 8s built.


@NOOBDELUX, Not too sure about the skills part so much as persistence and never give up attitude. I may take time off but never throw in the towel. I just really want to move onto something else, kick panels, or sub box, amp rack, SOMETHING. But I gotta get this one ticked off the list.


Thanks guys!!!!!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

So, I was able to put in a few hours today. I wanted to work long enough to make my back and neck kill me. I have another MRI tomorrow so working like this will assure they see what it is that is bothering me so bad. A cold pack and a few pain pills and I'll be ready for bed...

Anyway, I was able to cut my 8" rings (good lord I am out of practice with this, I hacked up several before I got some I liked. I SUUUUUCKED at making them.) and the plate that will mount to the door card. I then set out to figure out how to space this so I could infinitely adjust the ring so as to get the best possible fit and angle. So, I just used some screws through the plate to the ring. I then would tighten and loosen the screw until the front space was clear enough for the cone to clear. Its the engineering and figuring out problems like this that I like much better than sanding a freaking bondo pile.









I also used my table router set up with a copy bit on to make a duplicate to the base plate. To make the first I just laid the pocket over a piece of MDF and traced the inside of the panel. Then I sanded down 1/8" to compensate for the fiberglass last step. I got to remember to take photo's of this for the album...



















You can see in these photo's just how much of the 8" cone will be seen through the grills. I understand I it doesn't have complete freedom in front of the cone but I think it will be good enough for me. I'm after astetics first, then function, and I'll work out the sound bit as it comes up. I'll get a photo of the pod in a bit without the pocket covering it.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Ok here we go. This will give you a better idea what I have going on here. This is the pod without the pocket in place.










the pod alone

























and with the pocket

















Its not perfect, I got a little screw poke through but once glassed this will be a non issue. Also, at the top part of the pod you will note in the last photo how well it fits around the inside of the of the pocket itself. I'm thinking I may fill the gap around the top of the speaker to the pocket. I'll have to figure this out or leave it be. Its not really hurting anything other than not looking as good as it can from this angle. I'm just wondering how it will look once the grill is in place.


----------



## Noobdelux

make a logo on the top there with your nickname ofcourse, on solid black or somthing : P covers it up nicely..


----------



## Wesayso

I'd fill it with black accoustic foam


----------



## quietfly

Wow thats looking great. I love seeing the progress!!!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Ole Doc Eyeball found the issue with my neck and gave me an epidural. Then he found something round with my left rotator cuff and shot that with some gogo juice. I didn't want to stress any of his work so all I did today was glass the part I set up glass yesterday. I decided to show you guys how this PEEL PLY stuff works. I went for the poor mans PEEL PLY and used a CIRCLE K bag from my daily Twix fix. The idea is two fold, it saves from having to clean your fiberglass roller / aerator, and pushes the glass into the resin and expels air bubbles leaving you with a smoother finish so sanding is much easier if at all needed.

Tomorrow I will take some photo's after I remove the plastic so ya'll can see the outcome.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I went out to check on the pod, found it was dry enough to pull off the peel ply. With the exception of the creases it should be ready for cover after 5-10min worth of sanding. So the peel ply did its job. I could have done a better job however, by simply pulling the plastic tighter










I left this photo full size so you can see just how miniscule the creases are made from the plastic bag. If you were wanting to add more glass to a part like this you would need to scuff, or use a scotch pad to remove the blush to achieve good adhesion between coats.


----------



## Lunchbox12

Very cool! Learning a lot of valuable tips from you my friend! Can't wait to see more!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Thanks buddy. The good stuff will come when I start
on the sub enclosure using some REAL fiberglass and
techniques I used with boat building. None of this 
chopped strand stuff, going for the full monty with
Biaxial fiberglass sheet, and biaxial 6" fiberglass tape.


----------



## bbfoto

Scott, Awesome build with an amazing car....LOVE IT! Great FG'ing tips, too! I like the trick with the screws to angle the speaker rings as well. Genius.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

bbfoto said:


> Scott, Awesome build with an amazing car....LOVE IT! Great FG'ing tips, too! I like the trick with the screws to angle the speaker rings as well. Genius.


THANKS!! I'll be a happy camper when I get the inside of the car done. Its been a train wreck sense I got the car nearly 4 years ago.

The screw thing was an improvisation, most of the time we would use wooden dowels and I just didn't feel like screwing around cutting different sizes and hot glue. Repeat the process until I was happy with the results. When I so the drivers door I'll do the same trick only with better screws and pre drill so I don't split the wood. Its not that big of a deal, I can mix up some wood flour (wood dust from my sander) and resin about the consistency as ketchup pour it into the cracks and pinch it closed just before it flashes. More than likely the MDF will be stronger than it was when it was made. You can also use this mixture or something like it to fill dints or gouges in wood or even coat rings for use in doors without swelling from moisture. I should note that sanding wood flour and resin is HARD AS NAILS...

CHEERS, and thanks for your comments and visit to the thread.

Scott


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Well the door pod is finished, gapped enough so that if I cover it with vinyl it should clean but snug just how you would want it. I decided to try something different, when the bondo was dry enough I took to it with a rasp file. With this I was able to knock down enough material and shape it. Then came the sander, it was smooth enough so that I was able to do all the sanding with a corner cat and by hand with a scotch pad and piece of paper. Start to finish from putting bondo down to final sand only took about 30min max. This will be my process from here out.














































and this is how it fits under the door pocket/cover. I think enough cone is 
showing so that I shouldn't have to worry about midbass making its way 
through.









Tomorrow I will try and fit it all on the door, if its not too 
freaking hot.

On a BAD note, no word from my upholsterer, I consider 
myself to be rather patient but it is starting to wear thin.
VERY THIN! I think he has had my passenger seat now 90
days. I made the mistake of giving him back the leather, 
so now I cant even cover my door. Problem is he has no
carrot hanging in front of him. MY FAULT 100%


----------



## Wesayso

It's really starting to come together! This ring looks great. What are the plans to mount it on the door? Are you keeping this ring and the door card seperate? I didn't and regret it. I mounted my ring on the door card but that makes it vibrate even with 4 mm MLV glued to the backside. As you have the pocket covering it all up you could choose to seperate the door card from the woofer ring to hopefully get less vibration in the door panel. Just a suggestion, the decoupling might help...

How high do you cross these 8" woofers?
Just asking because when I had the door pockets in front of my woofers I had a problem with output at about 500 Hz. That's why I still drive without them. I need to make some new ones or cut up the old but I always seem to find different things to do .

p.s. hope you get that tweeter fixed!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Thanks for you input, it always helps to have someone who
"has been there done that"

The tweeter is a REAL BUMMER.. VERY rare and hard to find item

As you can tell this thing is one big door puzzle. It will have to go together as such, in a certain order. The first bit is the door card itself, then the door pull and popper or handle. I will then have to mount the pod, then the woofer, then pocket.

I have been going back and forth in your build to see what issues you dealt with so I can adjust my install accordingly. With that said I am going to coat all the rods, pins and anything else that currently rattles with a rubberized coating in hopes of
staving off any buzzing inside the door. 

As for the mounting of the pod. Because the entire door will be modular by design I'll first put it together as we see it in the last photo will all the bits. If I get any ill effects I'll be able to take the apart the problem child and made adjustments. To answer your
question more directly, once I cut the speaker hole in the pod I am going to not just screw it to the door, but use nuts and bolts so that I can draw it up rather tightly making it more one with the door.

The thought has never left my mind about making a "cup" that would fit into the hole going into the door to give the speaker an enclosure. I know I would never be able to get the proper air space unless I made the pocket the enclosure. So, I've been mulling over the idea of doing an aperiodic membrane enclosure with the back of the "cup" housing the membrane as seen in some of the more recent builds here. I've read about them for several years but have never had the call to try them out. Again, I will see if they aren't so great free air. Also, remember I have two other pairs of 8's I can try if these aren't so great.

As for the cross over points. 
My XES-X1 has various crossover points. The way that thing works is, whatever you set the highest point for your subs will be the lowest point for your midbass. Then its highest crossover point will be the midranges lowest crossover point and so on. This is a set slope of 72db per octave. So, I should be able to tune out any ill effects due to my poor install. lol. That is the plan anyway.

I just spoke to my buddy that fixes these XES systems and he is going to be selling the remaining bits he has if you would want to try one out. The price should be really right, or rather I can get them right. He and I have a pretty good repport.


----------



## bbfoto

FLYONWALL9 said:


> and this is how it fits under the door pocket/cover. I think enough cone is
> showing so that I shouldn't have to worry about midbass making its way
> through.


Looks awesome, Scott. That may actually increase your midbass as long as you are crossing them low...not any higher than 250Hz or so. I would try to keep them under 200Hz with a fairly steep slope if your midrange can reach that low without issues.


----------



## Wesayso

bbfoto said:


> Looks awesome, Scott. That may actually increase your midbass as long as you are crossing them low...not any higher than 250Hz or so. I would try to keep them under 200Hz with a fairly steep slope if your midrange can reach that low without issues.


How about that 72 db/octave slope mentioned above


----------



## FLYONWALL9

No doubt that 72db per oct is killer. The cool part is, what most people would think is a crossover point way off what they are used to I am able to get VERY close to what the speaker is supposed to play. I have tested it on an RTA to see if it was a true 72db. 

I tried it on a sub and a midbass. So, say I wanted to cross them at the 250hz. It will not play any higher or lower. The slope on an rta looks like a 90deg wall, not so much a slope. This is very nice when it comes to tweeters...


----------



## Wesayso

sounds a bit like the crossover in Magico speakers (they have steap eliptical crossovers)
What does it do for phase responce near the crossover frequency?


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> sounds a bit like the crossover in Magico speakers (they have steap eliptical crossovers)
> What does it do for phase responce near the crossover frequency?


The short answer..... **** IF I KNOW... :laugh:

I'll try to find out though


----------



## Wesayso

FLYONWALL9 said:


> The short answer..... **** IF I KNOW... :laugh:
> 
> I'll try to find out though


LOL, I love an honest answer 

Seeing it is a multiple of 24 db/oct it probably is flat after beeing flipped 3x 360 degrees?


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Normally I would be all for some storms and tornado warnings, just not when I want to do the final fit of my door panel before I cover it.








So, I mounted the 8, did some fine tuning and trimming. The specialty tools involved, when else do you get to use a hammer and chisel to build door panels... 









I love these little guys, you can do some really fine work with them and I was
lucky enough to inherited a large set of them..










Here it is all put together.
















here you can see the gaps for the cone excursion, I checked this a few times
and looks like I'm close but should be just fine.


----------



## bbfoto

Man, that looks beautiful, Scott!  The clearance for excursion looks really tight, though. Hope it works out...I can't remember what the average xmax is for those drivers.

I love me some good burrs, too! The right tools make a big difference. I think I've spent more money on tools than on my professional photography equipment, lol!

Keep up the awesome work...wish you were closer to L.A. so you could fix my botched FG jobs, haha.


----------



## SoulMan76

Great work, on a great car. Nice


----------



## bbfoto

FLYONWALL9 said:


> To answer your question more directly, once I cut the speaker hole in the pod I am going to not just screw it to the door, but use nuts and bolts so that I can draw it up rather tightly making it more one with the door.


Scott, I would actually use a 1/4"-3/8" thick or so CCF (Ensolite or Neoprene) foam Gasket between the pod and the door sheet metal. I have had better luck doing this to reduce overall resonance and vibration when mounting midbass drivers to the door.

Also, to seal any MDF or other wood parts, I use Minwax Wood Hardener which soaks deep into the wood and seals it. It is made for sealing and fixing rotting wood. It is basically a thin mixture of Acetone and Polyester Resin, that's why it soaks in so well. I actually coat any and all wood parts on both sides with this stuff. Then you can prep and paint it just like you would do with fiberglass. Downside is that it's fairly expensive for the amount you get. Maybe you could create your own. 










Also for filling and shaping your wood and fiberglass parts, Bing turned me on to US Chemical Kromate Light Body Filler. This stuff is easy to work with and sands like a dream. It's not too expensive at Summit Racing:

US Chemical US12050 - US Chemical Kromate Light Body Fillers - Overview - SummitRacing.com

I didn't hear about any major tornados in your area on the news, so I'm assuming everything at your place is still intact!

Wesayso, I love your build, too.  Regarding the 72dB/octave slopes, I always wanted to try the XES system ever since it was released. I was using the Sony ES XDP-4000X processor (still have it in one of my installs and love it), and I always salivated over the XES system, and in particular those steep slopes, haha.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Okay here we go.. The panel has been test fit without any issues. The only thing left to do is trim the door metal just a bit for the speaker to clear. After having the thing taken apart for a year I was surprised when I remembered how it all went together. I did have to drill a 3 new holes for the pocket at the bottom, no biggie. I had to enlarge some holes for the pull handle bolts. I will also have to drill a new hole for the top of the pull. I may also have to cut out some of the wood so I will have a metal on metal fit.


----------



## bbfoto

^ They fit!  Glad you got them put back on okay.


----------



## howlndog

Scott - looking absolutely fabulous... and those oz audio 8s (yowza)


----------



## shawnk

Very nice fab work bro! Love the restore on the XES gear as well!

Can't wait to see this install completed!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Need some help....

I've been looking through the build logs. I know I saw someone build some kicks within the last week or post within the last week where the midrange recessed into the kick rather than sticking out. Best I recall they took a mold of the kick area, made a baffle, and a speaker ring. Cut out the center portion of the baffle then had the ring set into it a few inches. Then it was glassed from the inside. 

I'm sure someone else has seen this that is watching my build. Maybe one of you could link it here. I cant find it for squat.

Thanks,
Scott


----------



## FLYONWALL9

shawnk said:


> Very nice fab work bro! Love the restore on the XES gear as well!
> 
> Can't wait to see this install completed!


Thank you... 

with any luck I hope I can keep the progress and
be done before turkey day so I can enjoy the 
holidays this year without anything hanging over
my head.


----------



## shawnk

FLYONWALL9 said:


> Thank you...
> 
> with any luck I hope I can keep the progress and
> be done before turkey day so I can enjoy the
> holidays this year without anything hanging over
> my head.


Good deal. That would be nice! How long have you been working on this?

I wish I could say the same for myself. I started my build last November so pushing almost a year now. I was really hoping to be finished this fall, but that's not going to happen  I'd say I'm a good 85% done, but unfortunately the last of the fabrication will have to wait till next spring when it warms up again. I really didn't want to start a build log untill it was completely done, but might break down and do one ayway.. not sure yet..lol


----------



## Wesayso

FLYONWALL9 said:


> Need some help....
> 
> I've been looking through the build logs. I know I saw someone build some kicks within the last week or post within the last week where the midrange recessed into the kick rather than sticking out. Best I recall they took a mold of the kick area, made a baffle, and a speaker ring. Cut out the center portion of the baffle then had the ring set into it a few inches. Then it was glassed from the inside.
> 
> I'm sure someone else has seen this that is watching my build. Maybe one of you could link it here. I cant find it for squat.
> 
> Thanks,
> Scott


Sorry, can't help you there... 
Read about your plans to start on the sub build though! Don't, do it, you're on a roll... finish the other side door first!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

shawnk said:


> Good deal. That would be nice! How long have you been working on this?
> 
> I wish I could say the same for myself. I started my build last November so pushing almost a year now. I was really hoping to be finished this fall, but that's not going to happen  I'd say I'm a good 85% done, but unfortunately the last of the fabrication will have to wait till next spring when it warms up again. I really didn't want to start a build log untill it was completely done, but might break down and do one ayway.. not sure yet..lol




How long have I been working? Oh good grief seems like forever. But keeping in mind, I may only have about 25 or so REAL work hours. As you have read mostly due to my ability to only work 30min to an hour at a time. Only on very rare occasions was I able
to work consecutive days, or for times of 3 or so hours. Another prime example, today I tried to go out and had full intentions of cutting the holes for my 8's in the doors.
After getting all the tools together and getting out to the car bending down my back locked up. I was on a 20deg slant and still am, so a few pain pills, some muscle relaxers maybe I will be able to go back out tomorrow. Man how great would it be to have a lift to get the car up to a level where I could just stand and work. I don't really have much issues working at my bench for a reasonable amount of time. 

You really should start your build log. Though many here prolly wish I would have waited until I was done or near done to do so. I'm glad I didn't because I've met and become friends with some folks that have really helped me out. You may find the very same. You may also get some idea's and help that you may have missed out on if otherwise.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> Sorry, can't help you there...
> Read about your plans to start on the sub build though! Don't, do it, you're on a roll... finish the other side door first!


Fear not myfriend. I'll finish the other door. I already have all the parts cut out, even the amount of resin measured and fiberglass pieces cut out to do the job. The other door shouldn't take 1/3 the amount of time the first one did. I've even mulled over using the exhisting card to lessen the build time. If I can figure out how to get the old foam off it without doing too much damage.


----------



## shawnk

FLYONWALL9 said:


> How long have I been working? Oh good grief seems like forever. But keeping in mind, I may only have about 25 or so REAL work hours. As you have read mostly due to my ability to only work 30min to an hour at a time. Only on very rare occasions was I able
> to work consecutive days, or for times of 3 or so hours. Another prime example, today I tried to go out and had full intentions of cutting the holes for my 8's in the doors.
> After getting all the tools together and getting out to the car bending down my back locked up. I was on a 20deg slant and still am, so a few pain pills, some muscle relaxers maybe I will be able to go back out tomorrow. Man how great would it be to have a lift to get the car up to a level where I could just stand and work. I don't really have much issues working at my bench for a reasonable amount of time.
> 
> You really should start your build log. Though many here prolly wish I would have waited until I was done or near done to do so. I'm glad I didn't because I've met and become friends with some folks that have really helped me out. You may find the very same. You may also get some idea's and help that you may have missed out on if otherwise.



Well keep up the good work! This is a unique build for sure!!!


----------



## bbfoto

FLYONWALL9 said:


> Need some help....
> 
> I've been looking through the build logs. I know I saw someone build some kicks within the last week or post within the last week where the midrange recessed into the kick rather than sticking out. Best I recall they took a mold of the kick area, made a baffle, and a speaker ring. Cut out the center portion of the baffle then had the ring set into it a few inches. Then it was glassed from the inside.
> 
> I'm sure someone else has seen this that is watching my build. Maybe one of you could link it here. I cant find it for squat.
> 
> Thanks,
> Scott


Scott,

Were you thinking about this?










http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/1722398-post58.html


----------



## FLYONWALL9

bbfoto said:


> Scott,
> 
> Were you thinking about this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/1722398-post58.html


Yeah I think that is one of them. But I was also 
thinking that someone did something close to that
in a truck. Maybe it was the one that had like 11 
drivers in the front stage? I was thinking one of them
the finish was either vinyl or painted? 

This one may well help me when I build mine.


----------



## Lunchbox12

shawnk said:


> Good deal. That would be nice! How long have you been working on this?
> 
> I wish I could say the same for myself. I started my build last November so pushing almost a year now. I was really hoping to be finished this fall, but that's not going to happen  I'd say I'm a good 85% done, but unfortunately the last of the fabrication will have to wait till next spring when it warms up again. I really didn't want to start a build log untill it was completely done, but might break down and do one ayway.. not sure yet..lol


Do the build log shawn!!!
Even if you take a break for the cold...it helps motivate me to get my own **** done...especially when members start posting "any updates?" LOL

By the way I lived in NewBrunswick for about 3 years when I was a student...it gets damn cold bro! I hope you have a heated garage!
JJ


----------



## FLYONWALL9

bbfoto said:


> Scott,
> 
> Were you thinking about this?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/1722398-post58.html


I had a look at that build and it isn't the one I was
thinking of. The one I have in mind had photo's of
how the kicks were built.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

a bit of an update. 

I won an OLD SCHOOL CODE ALARM on FLEABAY for only 60
bucks! killer deal. It wasn't the model I was looking for but
should work fine. The old CODES were the only alarm I have
never had a single issue with. To find one that cheap is only
a plus to my small budget. 

Its install will be 1st on my list when it comes in early next
week. This will allow me to keep the things installed that I
have built rather than pulling them out every single day.


----------



## shawnk

Lunchbox12 said:


> Do the build log shawn!!!
> Even if you take a break for the cold...it helps motivate me to get my own **** done...especially when members start posting "any updates?" LOL
> 
> By the way I lived in NewBrunswick for about 3 years when I was a student...it gets damn cold bro! I hope you have a heated garage!
> JJ


Ok Ok, You guys just may have convinced me to do so. I'll work on it soon. 600+ pics and counting..lol

No heated garage unfortunately so in a month or so all of the rest of the fabrication will be put on hold


----------



## shawnk

Scott:

I know these are not necessarily the kicks you were referring to, but perhaps they're similar to what you're looking for?

The mounting ring for the mid was recessed into the kick. Then cloth was attached to the ring's lip, and then the cloth was stretched up to the the rest of the kick to create the baffle. I think at least this idea would work for what you're describing?


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I decided to do a bit of something different. Show a start to finish of the door panel. the only photo missing is before I removed the carpet and vinyl. But you get a clear idea of just how jacked up the pocket is before all this work. Its cracked, uneven, not level, I could go on... 

So I start with getting everything ready. I cut all my glass, get all my tools, make sure they are nice and clean and roll free. I went ahead and cut my poor mans peel ply and test fit it as well, set aside.

Note the gloves, if your not using these you simply do not know what your missing out on. They are nearly as thick as the ones I used in the service with just the right amount of powder. I get them from O'Reilly's Auto parts but I'm sure they can be had elsewhere. 










The panel with the carpet removed. I didn't worry with any stray fibers, but you do have to be careful because this can create air bubbles. 









out of focus, sorry I put my camera on man focus while taking some other shots and forgot. Glass and resin applied before I pat it down with the brush and remove all the excess. This is to me where everyone on the board stops. I don't know bout a hand full of folks here who do proper lay ups. The glass is where you get the strength from not the resin. So, you push as much resin out as you can. I will show this more when I do my sub enclosure. This type of glass is very hard to rid of resin without the lay up moving.









Poor mans peel ply applied. What you are after here is very few wrinkles. This is very possible by pressing the sheet into the resin. This will also aid in removing the air. Note the funny looking roller. It is used just for this, I cannot recall where I got it from but I've had it for years. A round hair brush with bristles would work great also, that is pretty much what this roller is.









Lastly, I always leave a bit of resin or whatever is leftover from pushing out excess in the mixing cup. Two fold, to tell me when the panel is going off and when its fully cured and when you remove the brush the plug comes with it leaving you with a clean cup. duh everyone knows this









Hope this helps one or two of you, then I would feel its worth it.

cheers,
Scott


----------



## trojan fan

That's some interesting pics you took there :lipsrsealed:


----------



## bbfoto

Thanks for the FG tips! Much appreciated.

My problem is always how to get the right ratio of resin to catalyst, depending on the ambient temperature and the working time I need.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Best thing to do is use a 40 cc syringe, measure cups like the ones I use. So many cc's per oz or resin. If you REALLY want to do proper and very sturdy lay ups use epoxy resins. The ratios are more precise and far easier to measure because most of the time its a 1 to 1 or 2 to one ratio. Its kinda like cooking rice, once you have done it a few hundred times you don't have to measure anything. I will use epoxy on my enclosure because its not half as brittle, doesn't crack in joints, and can flex to an extent. Where polyester will not. If you lived closer I would be happy to give lessons and I did tutor to several guys who wanted to build boats. My best advise for anyone wanting to really learn fiberglass and proper lay up is to study boat building sites like Bateau.com. They have many tutorials, may even have some of my old ones. lol . If that is the case watch for spelling errors. 

When I start building my sub enclosure and using balsa wood or foam, most of the folks here are going to flame me. But core construction or composite if you read the below is so much stronger, lighter, superior in every way.

oh and stop blowing tons of cash on those small tubes of hardener. Its nothing more than MEK which you can buy in qt sizes. .

oh oh oh.. lol the very best part about epoxy is no noxious fumes, and it cleans up off your hands with simple vinegar and soap. 

http://bateau2.com/howto-index.php#general


----------



## bbfoto

^Awesome info! A ton of thanks.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

bbfoto said:


> ^Awesome info! A ton of thanks.


Yes sir.... anytime


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Peel ply removed. Surface MUCH smoother this go round.


















Cut the metal, final fit before they are covered. Not cone hitting, no basket hitting, 
looks like the last time was a charm. Now if I could get the dude to bring me the
material.


----------



## douggiestyle

man, I haven't revisited this thread in a LONG time. Love your persistence and the progress you've made!


----------



## Wesayso

Those look huge behind that panel! Love it!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

douggiestyle said:


> man, I haven't revisited this thread in a LONG time. Love your persistence and the progress you've made!


Thanks for the visiit Doug. I hope my updates are more regular now and I can keep 
folks like you interested. 



Wesayso said:


> Those look huge behind that panel! Love it!


Thanks for that, I think they look really cool too. Now to figure out if I want to put colored
factory grills on or have a go at making some mesh ones to match the aluminum bling I'm
now wearing. Also, I'm thinking of doing a bit of trim around the pocket lip. You know the
bad issue with these first hand, they tend to sag. I'm sure my glass work helped this out
but I'm thinking of adding an aluminum lip to those as well. What do you think?


TIP:
If you have fiberglass itch. First wash with COLD water, hot water will open you skin pores
and help push the fiberglass thorn deeper in your skin.
If you still have the itch after you shower with cold water, use a piece of tape to pull the
thorn from your skin. If this does not work get out the ole Elmer's glue, apply it to your skin
let it dry and peel it off like if you have a bad sunburn. I skip to this stage if I have little thorns
on my hands. As kids we have all done this at one time or another. That is if you grew up in my
era.


----------



## Lunchbox12

FLYONWALL9 said:


> TIP:
> If you have fiberglass itch. First wash with COLD water, hot water will open you skin pores
> and help push the fiberglass thorn deeper in your skin.
> If you still have the itch after you shower with cold water, use a piece of tape to pull the
> thorn from your skin. If this does not work get out the ole Elmer's glue, apply it to your skin
> let it dry and peel it off like if you have a bad sunburn. I skip to this stage if I have little thorns
> on my hands. As kids we have all done this at one time or another. That is if you grew up in my
> era.


Who's the doctor now!?!? Awesome advice!


----------



## n_olympios

Not the same colour or model, but I found it cool enough to post it in your thread.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I know not much of an update, but least is still moving forward. 

I had to do a proper manhunt to run down my upholstery guy. He has been having some really bad luck and family issues. sad... But I really want my crap done. LOL

I was able to see he had been doing work on my passenger seat. The really good thing about these seats is they are exactly alike. You can even swap the seat backs from left to right with no mods. This means with only one seat he can make both, I'll only need to pull the drivers in order to slip on the new cover. While at the shop I got enough material to do both doors, and even the rear of the car. I could have enough to do the front boot IF I am careful and don't screw up too much. I haven't covered anything in nearly 20 years. It may end up looking like a 90yo woman, bags, sags, and wrinkles.

This pocket was way worse than the other and is a bit harder to get it correct. Several of the grill tabs weren't even in place, perhaps broken in an accident. Part of the reason why I only paid 75 bucks for the pair, vs a couple hundred each. Least they didn't have blood or flesh on them. 




















Almost looks as if they two materials, seeing the material next to the silver finish gives me major motivation. I think its going to look so cool, that whole Mercedies Gullwing



















Mercedes Gullwing silver/red SO SWEET!!!

1954 MERCEDES-BENZ 300SL Lot 5000 | Barrett-Jackson Auction Company

*The Singer 911 silver/red has been my dream car sense singer
first came out. But for only 300k I gotta do what I can with mine. 
I don't want to spend my pocket change 
Seriously though, its what I have been trying to get idea's from sense
the start of this build.* 
http://www.boldride.com/ride/2012/singer-porsche-911-silver


----------



## Wesayso

Love the silver/red theme... and love that dash from the Singer. I got to find a way to do that to mine...

Edit: before I forget to mention: Yes, I think it would be a good idea to get that strip of aluminum on the bottom of the door pocket! Keep it nice and thight, you'll need it with those woofers! I'd fill the pocket arround the woofer with open cell foam wherever possible after making them as rigid as possible (maybe even some fibration damping tiles on the inside).

I have them lowpassed at 80 Hz / 12 dB and it allready slams! Those big boys are going to hit harder and lower.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

n_olympios said:


> Not the same colour or model, but I found it cool enough to post it in your thread.


Thanks for that, its SUPER COOL! I shole do wish mine was that 
model. I would love to have that 3.6ltr, coil overs, and and and
and... 

I've seen a photo like that one poster size, would look neat in my
shed.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> Love the silver/red theme... and love that dash from the Singer. I got to find a way to do that to mine...
> 
> Edit: before I forget to mention: Yes, I think it would be a good idea to get that strip of aluminum on the bottom of the door pocket! Keep it nice and thight, you'll need it with those woofers! I'd fill the pocket arround the woofer with open cell foam wherever possible after making them as rigid as possible (maybe even some fibration damping tiles on the inside)..




What part of the Singer dash is it you like so much?

You said put the strip of aluminum on the bottom of the door pocket? What I was making reference to was the lip when you open the pocket door. The lip that runs from the door handle around to the single screw at the pivot point where the latch is. You know how it can get the sag in the middle, not just on the arm rest but that middle part of the pocket at times will seem to widen and the lip sag. These new pockets alerady have a support brace unlike the older factory pockets like your car has on them. Its easy to make that mod, and I think you have already if I recall correctly. I'll PM you my idea for what I am going to use for the aluminum piece.

OH also, you see in this photo, the silver painted part that is under the door handle? It looks kinda ratty on both panels because it is a different kind of plastic. Resin doesn't like to stick, bondo doesn't like to stck, nothing that I can figure will work in order for me to paint it and have it turn out as good as the rest of the painted area. Here is the other issue. If I have a hottie, sugar momma, long scratch yo back honey in the car with, she would be able to scratch the paint. If I cover it with red material you will be able to see the edge and it not look so great. I can get a very thin piece of brushed aluminum like what is used on counter tops, shape, and cut it exactly like the small piece to perhaps match the door pull with the holes in it. I would leave it brushed and smooth to mach. 

OR CAN YOU think of another alternative?


----------



## Wesayso

FLYONWALL9 said:


> What part of the Singer dash is it you like so much?
> 
> You said put the strip of aluminum on the bottom of the door pocket? What I was making reference to was the lip when you open the pocket door. The lip that runs from the door handle around to the single screw at the pivot point where the latch is. You know how it can get the sag in the middle, not just on the arm rest but that middle part of the pocket at times will seem to widen and the lip sag. These new pockets alerady have a support brace unlike the older factory pockets like your car has on them. Its easy to make that mod, and I think you have already if I recall correctly. I'll PM you my idea for what I am going to use for the aluminum piece.


That lip! I guess it could work, the Singer has it too. I like how it looks right now though. Are you still doing the raised pannel part above the pocket?

The thing I like about the Singer dash is the red stripe of leather above the knee-bar / offset with bling bling strips.

The plastic part you talk about, is that the slanted area where you reach for the door handle? I guess brushed RVS might work, or black rubber glued in place. If you do the top lip of the pocket with an aluminum strip you could do the same on that ridge as an offset for whatever material you go for.
Plastidip wouldn't hold I think .


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Yeah its the slanted bit. Everything I have tried has cracked. Even if I am gentle enough where it isn't cracked when I install it I am sure over time it will crack. How about this... How about a piece of plexi heated up formed to that shape and painted from the back side. That way I could glue it down and you wouldn't see how its held down. Plus I am almost thinking if I do aluminum it may look to BLINGISH? I don't know about anything black because in time all of the door with either be silver or red. Those black parts now will get covered or dyed. If I could run wires in the door then I could put a thin led on the inside edge of the plexi that would light up when the dome light was on. But we all know what kinda PIA running wires in the doors are. I may very well try your trick though I have never had much luck with pulling wire. LUBE it up with some KY may do the trick?


----------



## Wesayso

That plexi idea might work! Running the wires isn't too hard. I've done it 3 times allready.
First was the wiring for my passive setup. Second was extra tweeter wires. Third was running better wires for the tweeters as the first set didn't make it trough a winter and snapped when I had to change something. That wire I got with a set of Clarion co-axials, very bad stuff. The plastic coat just couldn't handle the different temeratures.

tape the new set to the old wires, lube it up and go! One hole at the time, make a hook out of a piece of steel wire like a spoke and catch it between the door and car. If you have enough length between car and door, pul on wires on the inside of the car.


----------



## Wesayso

Check out: Urban Outlaw | Reelhouse

Cool video...


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> Check out: Urban Outlaw | Reelhouse
> 
> Cool video...


Magnus is the man.... I hear his movie will be at SunDance this year.

I never thought to friend him on FB, thanks for sending me his page. I always read
his posts on Pelican and thought it was really cool of him to mention Pelican in his
movie.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Ok here we are the final fair before I pray it with a guide coat final sand and paint. I really want to be farther along than this. OH WELL..

The upholstery dude called me today out of the blue, completely surprising. Says he has been kind of down sense his oldest left for boot camp. I remember that day like it was yesterday, I remember the look on my Fathers face. So I know what he is going through, I tried to offer him some solace. The surprise to all this was he wanted me to not cover anything and wants to do my car next Thursday, Friday, half a day Saturday, until everything is done. I'm not sure if that means EVERYTHING or everything that is supposed to be RED. I guess I better start making panels just in case. I'm sure he has never worked with fiberglass or bondo so the "help" part is me really double timing it.

I recycle as much stuff as possible when it comes to consumables, box tops, paint sticks, tongue depressors (are wonderful for both bondo and fiberglass) popsicle sticks. The tongue depressors are great not only for stirring but spreading.









This is the area that is stressed a good bit, the reason why it keeps cracking. LUNCHBOX, you can use those tongue depressors for something aside from making folks gag.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Oh the pitfalls of car audio, or should I say trials. 

Go out to the shop this A.M. to find that my panel separated. My guess is the weight and heat of the bondo pulled the glass away from the plastic panel. What about this panel that is/was different from the other is I left more of the carpet fiber on the other. My guess is this gave the resin and fiberglass a tooth to grab and take hold of. Anyway, this one pulled along the plastic edge on the bottom. So, I had to make a resin slurry of bondo dust and HOT resin so as it crept through the cracks and filled them. Maybe this will do the trick, if not I'll cut away the area and re glass the area. Below is a photo of this. 

Guess I should have taken a photo of it standing on end to show the crack better.










This photo just shows what I failed to take a photo of on the last door panel. Nothing special but I have to add it to my album if I end up showing the car. One thing to note and something I have tested with great results. You can purchase a putty from an auto parts store or online that can be drilled and tapped. I took this stuff and fixed a few things this past couple months. The most impressive was the cooling fan on my engine, one of the blades was badly cracked and bent. I did my best to bend the area back. I then broke of any area I could leaving a very jagged crack. Kneed and mold the putty to the fan blade, let it sit overnight and shape. The stuff is steel hard! I tried the very same on MDF by drilling a hole in the MDF and shoved a bolt in it so it would crack its edges. I then did the above, kneed shove the putty into the affected area. It hardened, I drilled and tapped it and put a screw in it. To see how strong it was I pulled, hammered, everything I could do to make it fail. This will help anyone who has wooden speaker rings where the crews are very close to the edge of the ring. I would trust this EVERYTIME without question on my own car. Below is a photo of just how close some screws must sit next to the edge of the rings I have.. Hope this helps a couple folks.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Been kinda dead in here. 
I decided to do the 8" pod screw trick a bit different this time. I used some finder washers I had from when I built my boat to space the ring rather than wood shims. This is one of the neatest things I've figured out so far with this build. Just use long screws, add or subtract washers to get the angle you are looking for. Once you have the angle, just screw tighten down the screw and the ring is locked in. I made this one a bit closer to the door pocket, I forgot that I will have another 1/4" of space once I cut out the door card and mount the
pod to the door. Even more room if I do not put MLV behind it.










Showing the gap for the cone, its about 1/4" now, once I cut the door card it will be 1/2 should be more than enough for cone movement. 





































Material pulled ready for resin



























Got all my supplies all cleaned up, getting ready for the sub enclosure or kick panels. I think I need to do the sub next so if the upholstery guy calls I'll have the large pieces ready. He wont be covering the kicks anyway.


----------



## trojan fan

Wow!...one step forward two steps back and the beat goes on and on....Is there someone local to you that might be able to help you out....just saying....GL


----------



## Wesayso

trojan fan said:


> Wow!...one step forward two steps back and the beat goes on and on....Is there someone local to you that might be able to help you out....just saying....GL


What a nice thing to say 
Keep up the good work Fly! Hope you get the help that was promised.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

No worries Wes... Some folks you have to treat like a dog or 
small child. Ignore and hope they either go away or figure out
what they say now doesn't matter one bit.

The drivers door is almost done due to my working on it late this
a.m. I got the pod glassed and sanded.


----------



## shawnk

I noticed the 3M FB Resin on your work bench. What's your take on it? Good stuff?


----------



## FLYONWALL9

shawnk said:


> I noticed the 3M FB Resin on your work bench. What's your take on it? Good stuff?


Not a fan. Its too dark even before its mixed, that is huge to me because 
most of the time in the past for me I would mix based on color. It just 
happens to be what HomeDeposit sells, I only live about a mile from the
store. Also, I noticed that it doesn't flash off like other resins I've used
I couldn't even get the stuff to smoke if I were trying to make a hot batch.
So, it does force me to work slower than I would like to when glassing. Its
just not consistent IMHO. I should also note that an old can of the stuff
that I have hardened in the can just sitting on the shelf. I had to return it
to the store. Oh, the can had only one pot of about 24oz made out of it. 
I ALWAYS wipe the mouth of the can after use to get a proper seal on
the can, and it just makes working with the stuff easier and not as messy.
OCD.....

I'm going to try the stuff Bing uses the next time I place an order.


----------



## shawnk

Ok well that's good to know and I appreciate the info! 

For years I've been getting my Resin from a large Marina a good 30 miles away. It's by far the best Resin I've used, and it's really not too awefully expensive ($32/gallon). I can get this 3M stuff at Lowes that's two miles down the road which is why I was asking, but this is good that I know now to stay away from it.... Thanks for saving me $35!!! 

btw: If you want faster curing times, look for Resin containing "wax". Just be prepared to work fast and complete all of your layers in one swoop. Otherwise you would have to wait for the first batch/layers to cure, then sand, then add more layers. Just something to think about! I actually prefer Resing "with wax".


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Being perfectly honest, I've worked with fiberglass now for over 20 years. I can say I cant recall one time where I have read what is in the stuff. 
Or I sure don't remember it. Generally speaking I try to mix pots with a life of 10 minutes or so when working wet on wet. If I am working single coat
lay ups I will cut that from 6 to 8 minutes. Again, depending on the size area I am working on. Also, I have never heard of sanding between layers 
when working with polyester as long as the additional coats are laid within a given time frame. If you go over the desired time frame you would need 
to knock the blush off it, like your taking about. 

I will pay more attention to the wax additive. 

As for the 3m stuff, I suppose if I were in a pinch and just didn't feel like driving the distance your talking about I would use it. The other can of the 
stuff that hardened, I couldn't even get it to release after soaking it in HOT HOT water. Which I have done many times before. I was expecting to see 
a gal of the stuff for just over 20 bucks. No idea why they went up on price by 15 bucks.


----------



## shawnk

FLYONWALL9 said:


> Also, I have never heard of sanding between layers when working with polyester as long as the additional coats are laid within a given time frame. If you go over the desired time frame you would need to knock the blush off it, like your taking about.


Yes, that is all I was referring to. I wasn't aware of your experience with fiber glassing so my apologies.  I only brought that up because the "wax" resin kicks faster, and someone who was inexperienced (obviously you're not) with glassing may not understand the need for sanding before adding more layers once the resin has already kicked. :blush:

I feel your pain on the pricing though! I remember just a decade ago, I was paying just $12 per gallon at the Marina. Man, I wish!!

Good luck with the rest of the build!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

shawnk said:


> Yes, that is all I was referring to. I wasn't aware of your experience with fiber glassing so my apologies.
> I only brought that up because the "wax" resin kicks faster, and someone who was inexperienced (obviously you're not) with glassing may
> not understand the need for sanding before adding more layers once the resin has already kicked. :blush:
> 
> I feel your pain on the pricing though! I remember just a decade ago, I was paying just $12 per gallon at the Marina. Man, I wish!!
> 
> Good luck with the rest of the build!



OHH NOOOOO..... no need at all for apologies. I wasn't taking it that
way at all.... not at all... I was just saying in all those years I never
read a label. lol. And to be honest didn't realize the wax additive was
the reason for the blush that you see once it cures out. 

I'm a very laid back and easy going cat, I don't take offence to most 
anything someone posts on this thread, saves on apologies and keeps 
the mood here as light as possible. We're all buds here with a common 
goal. The only offence taken is mostly by one poster and I just chalk 
that up to childhood.

*I definitely do not know all that much. Case in point wax in polyester resin *


----------



## shawnk

Good deal!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Shawn,

Is the wax added to aid in mold release or something? So that when it is
in a mold and being the wax helps it cure faster, ie hotter,


----------



## shawnk

Good question, and it might very well be for that reason. I'm not exactly sure myself, but that does make sense. I've just gathered from experience over the years that it has a faster curing time over regular resin and I usually prefer it that way


----------



## Hoye0017

Typical polyester resin that is readily available at auto parts stores is a finishing resin. Polyester resin curing is anaerobic, meaning it doesn't fully cure in the open air. The inner resin will cure but the outside would be kind of soft or tacky. Wax is added to finishing resin so it rises to the surface when curing and sort of seals the outside to let the outer layer cure to a hard finish. This wax build up must be removed if adding another layer to allow for proper bonding. 

Laminating resin does not have wax and is meant for adding additional layers. The outer layer doesn't fully dry hard, it stays kind of tacky, but it's meant to have layers added. In most cases, the final layer would be a finishing layer with wax. Laminating resin is far less common in stores. The main market for laminating resin is in boat making and factory fiberglass production.

Check out uscomposites.com (kind of meant for pros) and you will see that they don't include wax in Their polyester resins but offer it as an option to add to any of them for the finish coat.


----------



## shawnk

Well that explains a lot! Excellent post and thanks!!!


----------



## Lunchbox12

Keep up the great work bro! I learn a lot from your posts and always look forward to seeing the progress. HAve you guys ever used a product called "icing", its a filler that I bought once... it was hella expensive, but boy did it ever dry fast and sand smooth! I love it for fine work like a-pillar tweets.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Now that football is over for the day, ROLL TIDE, I thought I would go out and work on my pods some. 
So I removed the screws and washers. I kind of knew I may have an issue removing them but it wasn't bad. I thought that due to resin seep some of the washers would stick to the backing plate and where you see the bulge in one pic is where the washers were touching the fabric. This was the area where I figured the issue could creep up and it did. I had to bust the washer out the side of the panel. No worries, if its fiberglass it can be fixed. 

Sposed to be micro balloons but is wood flour AKA sanding dust








the white flake is some balloons which are really small spheres 











opps NO WORRIES









Note the small piece, this goes on face first over the hole with the backing still on so it does not stick to the larger piece.









Patch made









hole covered









photo shows patch from the inside









ALSO, make sure you put a piece of tape over your screw holes so the resin does not seep out no matter how small the hole is. Also put a small piece over each of your screw retainers on the speaker ring/baffle. 



* I THINK IT IS IMPORTANT TO SHOW ALL PROBLEMS I HAVE SO THAT IF SOMEONE ELSE HAS THE SAME THEY KNOW IT CAN BE FIXED AND TO NOT GET DISCOURAGED. *
I'm surely not scared to show my screw ups, its how we learn.

What I wanted to do with this panel is make a slurry of micro balloons and resin, kind of like bondo and resin others use. When I opened my micro balloon container I found it had mahogany wood flour in it. No worries, this stuff once cured is as hard as nails. 









This is a bit too thin, need more filler









Just about what you want, maybe still a bit thin but should work nicely 


















You add as much resin as you want to use to fill the voids, then slowly add your filler until it reaches the consistency of mayonnaise then add your hardener. You may need to add a touch more filler to account for the added fluid. 


Pour it into the panel, filling all the holes and such with tape. I use the aluminum tape because it will hold even if its wet. I did move the panel around very slowly so that resin would find its way to any cracks, but stood it on end so a large puddle would fall over the hole.









HOPE THIS HELPS.

CHEERS,
SCOTT


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Lunchbox12 said:


> Keep up the great work bro! I learn a lot from your posts and always look forward to seeing the progress. HAve you guys ever used a product called "icing", its a filler that I bought once... it was hella expensive, but boy did it ever dry fast and sand smooth! I love it for fine work like a-pillar tweets.


Thanks LB! LIKEWISE with your updates, it gives me motivation. 

I've never heard if ICING, is it a fluid or some sort of powder? 
It sounds kind of like micro balloons, I'll do some reading up on it.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Hoye0017 said:


> Typical polyester resin that is readily available at auto parts stores is a finishing resin. Polyester resin curing is anaerobic, meaning it doesn't fully cure in the open air. The inner resin will cure but the outside would be kind of soft or tacky. Wax is added to finishing resin so it rises to the surface when curing and sort of seals the outside to let the outer layer cure to a hard finish. This wax build up must be removed if adding another layer to allow for proper bonding.
> 
> Laminating resin does not have wax and is meant for adding additional layers. The outer layer doesn't fully dry hard, it stays kind of tacky, but it's meant to have layers added. In most cases, the final layer would be a finishing layer with wax. Laminating resin is far less common in stores. The main market for laminating resin is in boat making and factory fiberglass production.
> 
> Check out uscomposites.com (kind of meant for pros) and you will see that they don't include wax in Their polyester resins but offer it as an option to add to any of them for the finish coat.



THANKS for that Hoye... Explains a lot. 

One question though, I've always read and heard that (with the resin
most of us buy at a home improvement store or auto parts store) you
can add subsequent layers to polyester without sanding if done so within
a given amount of time. If that time has passed and the surface is past 
the tack stage you must sand for other layers to properly adhere. From
what I've read, the chemical reaction that happens between layers if added
before the tack dries will still take place, and wont if its no longer tacky. 
I think I said that correctly. Is this not the case? I know for sure that this
is true with epoxy resin but (as you know) epoxy resin is far less forgiving
in this respect. 

I AM DEF going to chec out USCOMPOSITES. I've heard nothing but good 
things about them and was going to use them when I was building my last
boat but at the time where I was getting my resin from was less expensive.
Perhaps that is changed now.


----------



## Lunchbox12

Icing is polyester glazing putty that I like to use sometimes after using bondo because it is so much easier to sand. Small jobs only though because here in Canada it's like 25-30 bucks a tube.


----------



## ohiodish

Good work and I respect you taking your time and getting the doors how you want, when this build started in 2009 i bet you thought you would have the doors done by now. I started reading your thread yesterday (love Porsche) and a little surprised this is how far you are. Not trying to be negative at all. I like what you have done and change it until you get it how you want it. Keep on keeping on.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

ohiodish said:


> Good work and I respect you taking your time and getting the doors how you want, when this build started in 2009 i bet you thought you would have the doors done by now. I started reading your thread yesterday (love Porsche) and a little surprised this is how far you are. Not trying to be negative at all. I like what you have done and change it until you get it how you want it. Keep on keeping on.


No offence taken at all. Yes, I did think/hope I would have been done by now but not
discouraged in the least at this point. I've never been one to give up on anything I set 
out to do not matter what it may be. I've been told all my life I wouldn't be able to do 
this or that, yet here I am. I know it will get done and when I'm done I shouldn't have to 
make many changes to fine tune the install.

Thanks for taking time and going through my build, I know its filled with a good bit of rubbish 
but I wanted it to also be a place where we could bounce idea's off one another and all enjoy 
not just my build, and not have to worry with derails and so on. Heck I don't even care if someone
wanted to give a fishing report 

Again thanks and come back often


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Watching the NISSAN "DELTA WING" at Petit Le Mans. I wish they would show 
racing and not so much bs. I think I have seen a grand total of 35 laps out of 
well over 150.... WHAT THA HELL OVER!

GOTTA find the race online some place.


----------



## Wesayso

Hey Scott,

Did you make any progress? The more I read about your plans the more I'm still hoping you will put the subs where they belong, in the front!
Sure you can tune them that way but with them actually beeing there no rattle will put them in the back. Head turning wont reveal their position, the only thing you lose is showing them off .

Here's what I typed in an Audi R8 thread: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/1743233-post9.html

I read that the woofers will be mounted to the door and not the door panel? Giving you more room for the excursion but also the possibillity to decouple them from the door panels! That's on my agenda next (after i figure out a new way to decouple the front sub from the sheet metal).


----------



## Noobdelux

what are you working on now? : )

btw *almost* sold my mlk 165 set but diddent.. i miss the extra sound in the car.. and damn that set is good from an ep4x amp from hertz. 220 for each side. big grin : )


----------



## Lunchbox12

FLYONWALL9 said:


> Watching the NISSAN "DELTA WING" at Petit Le Mans. I wish they would show
> racing and not so much bs. I think I have seen a grand total of 35 laps out of
> well over 150.... WHAT THA HELL OVER!
> 
> GOTTA find the race online some place.


I love that DeltaWing...it looks so cool, but fragile as hell!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

The door pocket for the drivers side is done and ready for 
its 1st color coat UNLESS after I spray the guide coat and 
find some bad hump that you would see if not fixed. I can 
deal with minor imperfections the size of what is on the 
other side because they are REALLY hard to find and see 
unless you handle the panel. The pod came out okay and I 
think it will fly. I'll tell ya the saving grace tool thus far in 
this install is a rasp file that I have. It has saved me I don't 
know how many hours of sanding and shaping. If you guys 
don't have one yet go pick up a cheap one, you'll love it. 
The speaker hole didn't come out perfect but definitely good 
enough to fly, I have no speaker slack, that is the most 
important thing to me anyway.

Speaker just sitting in the hole


















shot a fast coat of thin primer, most of this will end up getting sanded down more than likely









you can see the pod in the background 









THANKS you guys for the support and pushing me, it does help. 
I didn't feel worth a damn today but I had to get out and do 
something. Tomorrow I am going to go to a shop and pick up 
some 1/8" foam to cover the front of door cards. I called the 
freaking upholstery dude 2 times today simply to ask him if he 
wanted me to come to the shop. Both times he said he was 
going to call me back and never did, it NEVER fails this is what 
happens when I rely on someone other than myself. Time to 
take matters in my own hands and cover this stuff myself. I've 
done it before and it may take me a time or two before I satisfy 
my OCD. But that is how it has to be and how its been thus far. 
Many of you know this is like my third iteration of these door 
pockets, but they are definitely the way I wanted them.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Lunchbox12 said:


> I love that DeltaWing...it looks so cool, but fragile as hell!


Isn't it though... I wish they would have given it more HP, but 
I guess the rules said they couldn't have that much because of
weight. Have you seen the size of the front tires on the thing?
They said the other day when I was watching it that the mirrors
alone added like 600lbs of drag on the car, or something like that.

I hoped to see it at the F1 race in Austin TX next month. 
I'm not sure at this point if I am going to be able to make 
the race, if not I guess I will see it next year. It wasn't at 
the INDY GRAND PRIX of Alabama this year. For all you Porsche 
owners that is a Porsche sponsored event, you should go if you 
can. I think it was moved to a better time in the year when its 
not so damn hot.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> Hey Scott,
> 
> Did you make any progress? The more I read about your plans the more I'm still hoping you will put the subs where they belong, in the front!
> Sure you can tune them that way but with them actually beeing there no rattle will put them in the back. Head turning wont reveal their position, the only thing you lose is showing them off .
> 
> Here's what I typed in an Audi R8 thread: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/1743233-post9.html
> 
> I read that the woofers will be mounted to the door and not the door panel? Giving you more room for the excursion but also the possibillity to decouple them from the door panels! That's on my agenda next (after i figure out a new way to decouple the front sub from the sheet metal).


Oh I'm going to try the subs in the front in a test box to see what
they will do. If I didn't live in a part of the states where it gets freaking
AFRICA hot I would no doubt do what you did. Its been done many 
times b4 and everyone loves it.

The thing is that between the subs is where I hoped to install a custom
part that I am going to make. Its the only place I can figure to put said
part. Also, I am going to do a seat delete anyway, so to use that space
only makes sense. It would be a MAJOR undertaking to install my amps
in the front of the car due to the massive amount of wire I would have
to run, 8 sets of everything plus all the unilink cables.....

As for the 8's, the pods will get bolted to the door sheet metal. This is
going to give me a great deal of extra room because I still have to install
the CCF and MLV. So the thickness of that along with the 1/4" of wood
that the cards are made of. I'll prolly use some cork sheet as gasket that
I have to mount the pods to the sheet metal.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Noobdelux said:


> what are you working on now? : )
> 
> btw *almost* sold my mlk 165 set but diddent.. i miss the extra sound in the car.. and damn that set is good from an ep4x amp from hertz. 220 for each side. big grin : )


I've been working on the drivers side door speaker pod and door pocket.
Those are, I would call it 90% done. Spraying them with color coat and
clear is very easy to me and should only take 30min or so depending if
I can do it without any runs. I gotta remember what PSI I shoot at, I 
never can remember, I should write it down this time so when I do my
sub enclosure I wont have to play the guessing game.


----------



## Wesayso

FLYONWALL9 said:


> Oh I'm going to try the subs in the front in a test box to see what
> they will do. If I didn't live in a part of the states where it gets freaking
> AFRICA hot I would no doubt do what you did. Its been done many
> times b4 and everyone loves it.
> 
> The thing is that between the subs is where I hoped to install a custom
> part that I am going to make. Its the only place I can figure to put said
> part. Also, I am going to do a seat delete anyway, so to use that space
> only makes sense. It would be a MAJOR undertaking to install my amps
> in the front of the car due to the massive amount of wire I would have
> to run, 8 sets of everything plus all the unilink cables.....
> 
> As for the 8's, the pods will get bolted to the door sheet metal. This is
> going to give me a great deal of extra room because I still have to install
> the CCF and MLV. So the thickness of that along with the 1/4" of wood
> that the cards are made of. I'll prolly use some cork sheet as gasket that
> I have to mount the pods to the sheet metal.


Mount the amps in the back and sub's upfront . I have a little of both remember? There are enough places to get the wire from front to back trough the firewall. My power wire goes trough at the passenger side and the speaker wire and RCA's behind the radio.

Love the progress! Keep it up! My season is over allready, it's getting chilly out here.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> Mount the amps in the back and sub's upfront . I have a little of both remember? There are enough places to get the wire from front to back trough the firewall. My power wire goes trough at the passenger side and the speaker wire and RCA's behind the radio.
> 
> Love the progress! Keep it up! My season is over allready, it's getting chilly out here.


I honestly have no clue what kind of room I have to run wire. I haven't
even looked at it. I know I have 1/0 that needs to run to the back
which should be easy enough. I would hate to think of having to run 
everything from my processors to the front if the amps were in the
front or the other way around. At minimum if I like the subs in the 
front that will only mean 2 speaker leads and the power wire. Then
I have to figure out where to put 2 batteries. sighs... ITS NEVER ENDING......


OH and the reason for that big fancy garage is so you can work in the
winter. I would think you could get more done because your not spending
time driving... SO get cracking:laugh:


----------



## Wesayso

Thinking about it some more I'd try a sub enclosure in the front of the trunk. Where the spare tyre is... the trunk shape might act as a big horn!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Where would I put the spare tire then? I'm guessing your talking about using the
indent where in the fuel tank?


----------



## Wesayso

I'd look into the front space leaving the spare where it is and work with the room that's there. My toolbox roll is always in that front space and you'd need to make it easely removable in case you need the spare. Think like Bing . You could even use the spare wheel mount to fix it in place?
Whatever you do, detach it from the sheet metal of the car, make it a floating unit. That works so much better!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

*TRICK or TREAT?*










Today was a pretty good day for work here at 70deg not a cloud in the sky. I had to fight not going fishing to work on the sled. 
So, I plugged myself up to my tens unit and went at it. Final sand and prime of the drivers side door pocket. Final sand of the first color 
coat of the passenger side pocket. Then I laid them out for PPG color, wiped them all down with a brand new tack rag and went to shooting. 
Stupid me I didn't pay attention to what I was doing and laid too much color over a still green coat of primer. This caused wrinkles in the prime 
coat. I always shoot a very thin first two coats because the reducer used is really harsh stuff, except for this time. I set that one aside and
shot the drivers side with 2 thin coats let it flash then 2 more gradually thicker coats. I will shoot it two more times to fill any needle holes 
that could be in the glass or primer coats that I didn't see. Tomorrow will be several coats of polyurethane clear coat followed by a wet sand 
and buff. 

I also went and picked up a can of truck bed liner spray paint for the 8" pods. I've never used the stuff but see many of you guys using it. 
Really looking forward to using it to see just how it lays on. 














































wrinkles, I just hope it didn't go all the way to the substrate, if it did I'm screwed









I think I am going to recut my mid panel, mine is quite a bit shorter than this one and more narrow.


----------



## trojan fan

After viewing your numerous struggles, this type of prep and painting is best left for a professional....just saying


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Let me see if I understand this. I paint 3 to 5 race motorcycles per year, know exactly 
what I am doing and your trying to tell me to take it to a shop. Dude do you know how 
stupid you sound on most of these posts?

Trying to understand you have been here a year, you have 2300 posts, and not one of 
them is a build log and only 10 posts you started yourself?. Yet you think you can give 
someone advice on what they should do? Do us all a favor and once you get a learners 
permit and IF mommy or daddy lets you put some 6x9s in the family car, then you can 
TRY and tell someone how you used drywall screws to install them

I'M JUST SAYIN, you sound like a young punk that doesn't know a damn thing.



I like this one the best




trojan fan said:


> Hey guys, looking for used, but new at a great price...thanks





Chaos said:


> Sorry, but that doesn't even make sense.
> 
> Suffice it to say, the JBL can consistently be found for less then the ID, but they offer very
> similar performance.


----------



## trojan fan

trojan fan said:


> Hey guys, looking for used, but new at a great price...thanks


Since(not sense) this is causing your regional enteritis to flare up, let me correct it so you can sleep better tonight....the word "also" is missing after "but"

You have been working on this same project for 3 years and yet to complete the front stage, but claim to paint 3 to 5 cycles a year...I'll buy that for a dollar

Your perception of the Oregon(not Oragon) football team is laughable, have you ever watched them play before

I've competed and worked as an installer for many years, had my first system back in 1983, do the math, I'm not some young kid....I was doing installs when you were still living at home playing with your toy Porsche

Looks like your assumptions are off, one should never judge a book by it's cover

Get some help, we all want to see this build done before this forum dies off


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I'm not getting any help with anything. I don't need it, I NEVER throw in the 
towel like I'm sure you have and do.Take my panels to a professional such as
yourself? What a great idea, I'm sure you will be out of class when the UPS man
delivers. No way no how anyone here on this board thinks you have done any 
installs current or later. You simply do not have the proof, or knowledge. Sure
my car has taken 3 years, so freaking what? Sure I paint track day and race 
motorcycles gain proof. 

One YEAR 2300 posts, 10 of those are threads you started, NOT ONE of those
is a build log, most all of them are WTB BS. 2300 posts REALLY? You know
in message boards what that is called? POST Whore, or looser with nothing else 
to do, let alone an install..... Come on man, get a life, find another thread to give 
your omnipotent and or rubbish comments. I know how well loved you are and have 
so much more and better things to do. And love to play grammar coach and 
spelling bee moderator, all are highly loved on any automotive web page. You are 
the poster CHILD for the ignore list where I am sure you reside on many members lists. 
I took you off mine because I felt you did have your right to freedom of speach. Now I 
honestly know why my elders had a rule, CHILDREN should be seen and not heard. 

Enjoy yourself....


----------



## alachua

If he annoys you that much, just add him to your ignore list.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

alachua said:


> If he annoys you that much, just add him to your ignore list.


Thanks for that. I did add him


----------



## trojan fan

FLYONWALL9 said:


> One YEAR 2300 posts REALLY? You know
> in message boards what that is called? POST Whore.





Hey cornbread you are all confused, what kind of meds are you taking...I have been a member here since 2007 and in good standing...you need to do your math again, because you can only view my last 500 posts, which goes back about 8 months.Once again judging a book by it's cover

It's a degenerate like you that has a hard time accepting constructive criticism, that's what chaps my ass about you.

When you throw something on the internet, like your build, you are going to get comments that are not exactly what you want to hear. Like you said i have "freedom of speech", no need to insult my integrity or experience in the car audio industry, i have nothing to prove to you

When i keep seeing one step forward two steps back, it makes me question things, it's human nature


PS...my elder once told me "**** or get off the pot"


----------



## bradw011

trojan fan said:


> PS...my elder once told me "**** or get off the pot"


I don't see how that applies at all. 

Listen, yes. This is the internet. Everyone has "freedom of speech" and all that. I'm a newcomer here at DIYMA, and I particularly enjoy the sense of comradery that exists here between most of the users. This is getting a bit ridiculous. This forum is called DIYMA for a reason: it's full of people who would rather take on the challenge themselves instead of taking it to a professional. Which is why trojan-fan's initial comment can be strewn as mildly offensive. I appreciate flyonwall's build, and I've been following it closely because frankly, well, it's awesome. Who cares if it took 3 years to get to where he's at? I know I would sacrifice time for perfection, and this appears to be what is being done. That's the cool thing about DIY. You can build to whatever limits you want, without the "I'm-going-to-have-to-pay-for-this" shadow lingering behind you. With that being said, trojan-fan's initial comment was only mildly offensive. Flyonwall, don't take offense to this, I'm speaking as an outside observer here: I think you overreacted. I don't know why, and I'm not going to try and figure out why. You've put a lot of hard work into this build, and believe me, it shows, but let's keep our sensibilities. I quite enjoy watching this build progress, and recently all I've seen is argument. This is not as enjoyable. 

Anyways, that's my rant as a new guy.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Thanks for your reply new guy Brad... 

I know it sucks, I hate it. I've put the guy on my ignore list but it doesn't help much at all. 
I've messaged mods to see if he can be removed from the thread. I doubt it but it sure doesn't 
hurt to ask. Because no matter where or what part of this forum I post on he has something smart 
to say. I HATE it mostly for the regular guys that I have become friends with on this thread that no 
longer post because of him pissing me off and, well. 

anyway, I guess the best thing is for everyone to do is ignore him. I'll keep doing what I do, I've never
let anyone stop me from doing anything and its surely not going to be him. 

I'll have more updates later on today, I clear coated the pockets at about 2am, I didn't post pics because 
I wanted to show you guys how great they turned out in the sun.


----------



## n_olympios

FLYONWALL9 said:


> I HATE it mostly for the regular guys that I have become friends with on this thread that no longer post because of him pissing me off and, well.


Hey Scott, don't sweat it, I doubt that's the reason. For me it's not anyway, I usually post only when I have something to say.


----------



## Wesayso

I'm still here too . Making sure you are making some sort of progress...


----------



## howlndog

Wesayso said:


> I'm still here too . Making sure you are making some sort of progress...


...me too.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Quite happy, I think I am only going to have to wet sand one 
of the pockets and that is only because I want to see if I can 
get it better. Most anyone else it would be fine. It will be a 
couple of days at the temps we are having now before they 
are cured enough to sand. They are dry to the touch but if 
I did try and cut them I would end up with little rolls of clear 
which will scratch the coat. The lower edges aren't perfect 
and I saw no need for them to be because they will get lots 
of contact with the door rubber. Its something you cant see 
unless you get on the ground anyway. Someone that does 
that will get a swift kick in the butt.

for comparison sake these are clear coated. Yeah it has nicks above the screw holes, not going to sweat it.








*Throwing up a peace sign.  for reflection sake*


















*These are just color coated.*



















I think I have settled on a grill design they will look something 
like the factory but I will try and make the ring out of aluminum 
techniques from the BADASS BMW thread. I was given some 
thin aluminum from my Pop's that will work great for a test/learning 
piece. Then I will move up to something a bit thicker. If I cant get 
the look I'm after I'll just make the rings out of plexi and use a 
torch to give them the curve of the pockets.

Now to paint the speaker pods with some of that bedliner stuff. 
Be back in a bit.


----------



## MTopper

I just sit in the shadows watching. have no time of my own to work on stuff and limited experience with custom doors with SQ in mind. love the looks of the doors though. keep it up and i've had my ignore list enabled for about 2 years now :thumbsup:


----------



## Wesayso

FLYONWALL9 said:


>


Looking good Scott! But after seeing this post might I suggest looking into Euro style headlights? I can never get used to seeing these strange lights on a 911. The Euro style flows so much better.... (I.M.H.O.)


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Came in from the shop for a bit. Painted the pods with bedliner,
now I know why everyone loves the stuff. Its the bomb! Has 
anyone ever played with it as a high build cheap primer? I sprayed 
a small piece of wood when it dries I'll sand it a bit and use some of 
my leftover paint from last night to see how it will react. If it works 
out that will be a cool quick primer vs having to use the stuff I have 
that is like pudding made by PPG.

I also put a layer of MLV on my door cards, good grief it increased 
the weight of the card a great deal. I may go ahead and put CCF 
on the side that faces the inside of the car. Or look into some sort 
of foam that is more stiff. I went around to shops and couldn't find 
any I liked. It was too soft and squishy.

Maybe if everything dries I can mount the passenger side door panel 
and just wait until the material comes in that I ordered..


----------



## bbfoto

Looking awesome, Scott! I've been watching on the sidelines as well...super busy with work/travel at the moment so I don't have much time to post. Keep it up, Amigo. That car is worth it.


----------



## Lunchbox12

Just caught up on this thread. 
Scott, I for one can say that I am thankful for the tips and advice you gave me. You have helped me learn new techniques and help encourage me on my own build. Regardless of how long it takes you to do something, everyone has their own pace, and I'm glad that you take the time to share with others. 
In my field of work, sometimes I see lives that are gone in a flash, and other times I see lives that are completely wasted with drugs and negative circumstances. I'm glad to see you are managing your health issues and continue to find a productive outlet that actually has had the potential to inspire myself and others. Please keep up the great work. Your contribution to this forum is a positive one, and I am greatful for that.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Lunchbox12 said:


> Just caught up on this thread.
> Scott, I for one can say that I am thankful for the tips and advice you gave me. You have helped me learn new techniques and help encourage me on my own build. Regardless of how long it takes you to do something, everyone has their own pace, and I'm glad that you take the time to share with others.
> In my field of work, sometimes I see lives that are gone in a flash, and other times I see lives that are completely wasted with drugs and negative circumstances. I'm glad to see you are managing your health issues and continue to find a productive outlet that actually has had the potential to inspire myself and others. Please keep up the great work. Your contribution to this forum is a positive one, and I am greatful for that.


THANKS for that my friend, coming from a Dr that knows what
it is like for someone like me to go through the things that I have
to deal with on a daily, is very uplifting....

This is one if not the best post in this thread, and I am greatful!

all the best,
Scott


----------



## Wesayso

Fly, that's no excuse not to post the pictures of the speaker pods covered in bedliner!


----------



## IBcivic

:curtain:still lurking, o'er here


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> Fly, that's no excuse not to post the pictures of the speaker pods covered in bedliner!


True, I forgot all about taking photo's of the painted pods. Sorry for that buddy...

They came out ok with just two coats.


























I also cut two cork rings out of some cork sheet I had for the 8's. 
The leftovers will be used for the 4's. Pop's gave me this stuff to do drawer
liners in my tool box. It was a pretty big roll. So to get it to lay flat I just mist
it with water, put a piece of wood over it and a weight. It will be good to go
tomorrow. If the rain holds off I hope to install the completed pass door panel.
Well, except for whatever material will cover it. I may spray it with some of that
bedliner for the time being so I'm not just looking at wood. A layer of 1/8" Volara
foam will go down before the cow or vinyl. I like Volara because you can sculpt it.









I tried out my new staple gun to shoot some staples in the MLV. Dude at HomeDepot 
said they didn't have any 20 gauge staples. "Really" so, I walked down to where the 
hand staplers were and got the widest thing they had. Turned the psi down to 50 vs 
the 70 the instructions noted, they shot fine! For two bucks it was worth a shot anyway 
to save the drive to Mobile 45min from where I am.









TIP OF THE DAY..

If you do your own painting and have a problem with fallout in your shop little plastic 
containers work great. I also keep resin mixing sticks in the same tub to keep down 
contamination, paint filters, Larger paint guns, air brushes so forth are kept in individual 
plastic containers. Also, note the small pots for painting. I pick up a few when they are 
on sale, I like to have no less than 4 for each gun.


----------



## Wesayso

Wow those look good! Can't wait to see a finished (well, almost finished) door.
I like this better and better. Are you planning on bolting down the pods directly to the door? To save some space behind the pockets and reduce rattles in the door panel?


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> Wow those look good! Can't wait to see a finished (well, almost finished) door.
> I like this better and better. Are you planning on bolting down the pods directly to the door? To save some space behind the pockets and reduce rattles in the door panel?


You betcha my friend. You noticed the large hole in the side of one I
gather? I haven't drilled the holes in the other one yet, I was worried
that this bedliner stuff would have expanded in the hole and the bolt
wouldn't fit without drilling out. Having never used it before. So, I left
one undrilled and one drilled to see what happened. 

I'll cut out the area where they pods will go through the door cards b4
I try and remount them. I'll order the new foam for the outside of the
cards this week also.

Have a good week


----------



## JayinMI

I haven't used bedliner as a high build primer, but I've used SEM texture coat as a high build primer. It works OK, but I recently came across some Rustoleum or Duplicolor stuff that works easily as well at 1/4 the price.
I don't have the can handy.

It's not as good as a "real" high build, or sprayable filler, but for small projects it works ok.

I assume the pods you sprayed with bedliner are going behind the door pockets?

Looking forward to more. I've been a Porsche/ACVW fan for years.

Jay


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Jay, 


Thanks for that. The Duplicolor stuff you used, was it labled as "high build" primer?

If so, this is the stuff I have used on many projects, even the pockets in this build. The
only downfall to this stuff is if you use a reducible professional grade paint it can wrinkle
the prime coat as seen above. Its the reducer that is the demon, if you do not spray very 
thin coats until you get a layer built up back to sanding you go. 

If its not like the stuff you get in auto parts store and can take paints other than lacquers I 
would really like to know about it anyway. Will it fill pinholes in fiberglass? That is what I really 
liked about this bedliner stuff, it filled pretty large voids and holes. The down side would be 
sanding it smooth if you wished a smooth finish.

I do plan to mount the pods behind the pockets. I think you can find the first mockup of
this in a page or two back where the door is open and closed with the speaker mounted.

I know this has taken a pretty good bit to get to this point but what people other than Porsche 
owners do not know is. These parts are not meant to be mounted on this body year, so much of 
what I have done is stuff the normal Joe just doesn't see. LOTS of mods go into mounting the 
pockets even though they look every similar to the factory pockets. I'm sure you may know some 
of these issues. Now anyone else who reads this will be aware of it as well.

Thanks for the visit, I'll have the pods and pockets mounted this week!

Scott


----------



## JayinMI

It's not too bad, but it doesn't fill pinholes amazingly. For something in a can it does pretty good.

Jay


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I started putting the panels on today. They look much better and the fit is far better having 
cut the pods into the door card. I can tell without a doubt I am going to have to cut or graft 
on to the mid panels I already have. If I have enough wood here at the house to make new 
ones I'll just go that route. If not I'm damn sure not going to the store to buy wood for a 
piece only 6" long. 

Door open shot, I know it looks like the last time I shot pix but this is the clear coated panel,
thank goodness I had shade to work in today.










Mostly what this photo is suppose to show is how well it fits along the bottom seal. VERY HAPPY with this.









Now here you can see the reason why I want to cut a new mid panel. I could fix this two 
ways, either cut a new panel or cut a slit in the card for the pocket to slot into. Either 
would work well. But making a new mid panel would fix this the proper way.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

JayinMI said:


> It's not too bad, but it doesn't fill pinholes amazingly. For something in a can it does pretty good.
> 
> Jay


Jay,
Is this the primer your talking about?


----------



## FLYONWALL9

OH WAIT, check that comment about having to cut a new mid panel. The second
set of door cards I made with the MB QUART 8's in mind, they have the mid panel
attached to them. So all I have to do is cut those mid panels off those cards. 

WOOP WOOP...


----------



## Wesayso

Much better than your previous pockets, these look slom in comparison.
No more Hayabusa look . They look good! You can't tell there a big 8" woofer hidden there. The grey looks good too, better than the original pocket material.


----------



## JayinMI

FLYONWALL9 said:


> Jay,
> Is this the primer your talking about?


I think so, it's at work now and I'm still on vacation.
Pretty sure that's it. I have used that before, so I may be wrong.

Jay


----------



## Wesayso

Where's the next update? Are you working on something secretly?


----------



## Wesayso

I finally found a picture of the kick panel I wanted to show you... Here's what I would do arround your mid bass under the pocket, just to be save...









More here: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/66907-bmw-install-version-2-5-a.html


----------



## Wesayso

Hello?


----------



## Wesayso

I just heard from Scott (FLYONWALL9),
He has been plagued with health troubles and is forced to take it easy for a while. That doesn't stop him from making plans though. I hope for a speedy recovery.
The plans sound good to me but I'll leave it up to Scott to explain everything in detail when he's up on his feet again .


----------



## n_olympios

Let's hope he gets better soon.


----------



## CA4944

Scott, get better soon!

I've stayed tuned into this thread for a while, and your work on those doors is really inspiring. Hope you're back at it better than ever soon.


----------



## quietfly

i hope he recovers soon, and gets back to posting!!!!


----------



## bbfoto

Scott, here's to a speedy recovery, mate...but take care and don't push it. Your car isn't going to drive itself away. It'll be ready whenever you are.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

*Thank you guys for the well wishes and encouragement, means tons especially from folks whom I've never even met. 
Ya'll are some good dudes! *I've had bouts with my Crohn's Disease and had to be put on some really STRONG steroids
(shame it isn't the kind that blow up your muscles to make me buff for the beach) which if any of you have had to be on 
them know they tend to make you really sick. Also, I requested another epidural. I figured that because I was already down 
with Crohn's I may as well get something for my back. If I am lucky it will ease the pain some in my back so I can do some stuff to the car. 

Though I have been really down and out I have been doing little bits and ordering parts. I am taking my seats this week to 
a really good upholster I found through some friends, he has had a great deal of his work in Mini Truck, and Low Rider mags. 
The best part is the price he gave me, I know the saying you get what you pay for but with this guy he charges what the
job is work. NOT what he thinks he is worth, very hard to find where I live. I'm sure my choice in materials may not be the 
popular choice, it is more of a nostalgic old school Porsche material. It was pretty rare back in the day to see and has grown 
again in popularity. I plan to cover some of the other interior accent parts in the same stuff to bring it all together. I know 
the guys that own Porsches that have been following this should like what it will look like. I've been able to finish up both 
doors, they just need to be upholstered.

Also, the car is at my mechanic buddies shop to have the engine pulled. I would really like to do that this week but just 
got a phone call two days ago from my sister in AZ. She said she was going to move back to LA., I'll be glad to have her 
back close by. So, I may be called on to help her move into one of my families houses that is sitting empty and has been 
for like 10 years. Needless to say it needs LOTS of cleaning before she comes in town. 

I hope to have some photo's for you guys as soon as I have something good to show.

*Again thanks for all the well wishes!*

Scott


----------



## quietfly

hey Scott, its great to hear from you!!! I know Crohn's is a heck of a thing to live with when it flares up. I hope you recover and get back to the hobby you love so much!!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

May as well let the cat out of the bag. I went and picked up my seats today. I know I'll have lots of people that don't care for them, its just my take on the classic Porsche houndstooth but with a bit more color. I didn't want the "norn"

I know in this photo it looks like the fitment is crap with a hump in the middle of the bottom and the seams down each side aren't too good. But the deal was we just stretched the bottoms over the foam and shot the photo. Once we put the hog rings on and tightened them up it laid down and lined up really well. I didn't replace any of the black because of budget. I may in due time, but for now, this sure beats the hell out of the torn seats I once had. 

This same center seat material will go in the center door panel piece and along the back of the car to tie both doors together because I am doing a rear seat delete. 

I'll upload more photo's tomorrow after I unload from my truck.


----------



## Coppertone

Very creative, I for one applaud you for doing what you want.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Thank you sir.... :beerchug:


----------



## quietfly

Looking GREAT!!! glad to see you out and about again, are you on the mend?


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Thanks.... 

Yeah, always on the mend from something it seems. Pretty much any day that
I feel good I work on this project in one way or another. Keeps me going, the
light at the end of the tunnel can be seen, it'll get brighter sooner than later.

Thanks for your kind words.

Scott


----------



## trojan fan

Considering all your medical issues, do you still have driving privileges?


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Yes, but I do not drive while on meds. I only put about 3800 miles on this car
sense I got it about 4 years ago. Helps me keep my collector car INS in check.


----------



## howlndog

That seat looks great! It's a nice modern twist on those old Porsche racing plaids


----------



## metalball

Definitely different but refreshingly designed seat. What's next?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4 Beta


----------



## FLYONWALL9

metalball said:


> Definitely different but refreshingly designed seat. What's next?
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4 Beta


Thanks for the compliment....


Try and find some 1/4" high density foam to cover the door cards and put the doors together. The foam has been kinda hard to find, I guess I will look at poker table foam next. All the parts are done aside from covering, about 1/2 days work. I had hoped to pick up some black vinyl today but the place was closed for the holiday. (Good for them! Wish more places would observe holidays like these.) It will take an hour or so putting them on. Then it is onto figuring out how I want to redo the kicks. I cant decide if I want to do door plates that extend to the kicks, or do the kicks as a separate part like before. If I make it all one part this would help me blend in the whole painted door pocket theme. Each way has marrett. On the other hand making them one piece and covering them in carpet would sure be LOADS easier. You know the saying, carpet hides. Well, it would save me a day or so each in body work, another day in paint, sand and buff. That would be in normal folk work schedule, mine more like a week. 

I did some measuring the other day and figured my processors would fit in the sides of my center console. So, I have to decide if I want them one in each side of that or like my orig plan, one in each rear quarter.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Lemme get a show of hands on the next major part of the build.

Here is what I am thinking about doing. The lip that each door seals to, I was thinking of making an inside scuff 
plate that would extend from the back of the door to include the kick panel. This would be either carpet of painted. 
If carpeted the baffle for the 4" components would be silver. If I painted the entire scuff plate and kick i would 
then paint the centers to match the door pods, which are black. Me huge change in the kicks aside from joining 
them to the kicks will be to make them MUCH smaller, (not that they impeded in foot room) I am going to use 
some rather large holes in the kick area which holds a heater fan each side. You can see these fans in earlier 
photo's. I could even mount the 4's in the fan opening giving the speakers small enclosures. This would keep 
the pods from extending into the foot box no more than 2", they could even be flush. Going this route would 
show continuity with how I built the door pockets and would also start to tie the silver into the car vs just 
having the pockets, and bits of the center console silver. 

who is for painted scuff plates?

who is for carpet?

who is for a VERY small kick pod and making them as stealth as possible. Only visual que would be the grill?

I like all options, the reason for a show of hands. No need for the it's your car do what would make you happy.


I am hoping to drop the motor next weekend, if not I will drive it back home from the shop and start on these parts. 

I hope I get some good subscriber response from this one.

Thanks everyone and I hope you all had a safe, fun, 4th of July

Scott


----------



## Wesayso

Well, my vote would be for the stealth small kick pod.
I'd opt to use silver on the dash to ty in the theme but not under the dash...
remember:








, but that's just my opinion...


----------



## n_olympios

I too vote for the stealth kick pod.


----------



## howlndog

Ditto... what Ronald and Nick, said.


----------



## bbfoto

x4, small kick pods. 4" drivers usually just need between .75-1.25L sealed. Can't remember which ones you are using?


----------



## FLYONWALL9

BB,

All the speakers in the car are OZ (superman logo) with a reference set of
MB Quart 8, 4, tweet. So, what I plan to do is install all the OZ stuff, then
after I work them in a bit I plan on switching them over to make sure my
choice was just. If the Quarts sound better I will start adjusting the sizes
of the enclosures. The only thing I will no do this with are the subs. I have
also been thinking about getting another set of 8,4,tweets for testing after
I run in the OZ and Quarts but keeping them all in the same price range so
that would be a set of the newish JL's.

So, keeping them stealth it is. Just to make sure I understand what all you
guys suggest. Carpet from the entry scuff plates to under the seats and the
same goes for the kicks, painting the centers of the pods to match the door
pockets which you wont see much unless the grills are removed.

I have also been thinking of aiming the tweeters to a point in the center of
the car but under the dash. Reason, my biggest pet peeve is to be able to
localize a tweeter. Aiming them forward and towards the center should rid
the system of this. HOWEVER, I will test this before mounting them. I 
can correct some really crazy strange placement of tweeters with the X1
TA. I'm looking to be able to hear the tweeters without being able to find
them with your eyes closed. They may not even end up in the kicks......


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> Well, my vote would be for the stealth small kick pod.
> I'd opt to use silver on the dash to ty in the theme but not under the dash...
> remember:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but that's just my opinion...


I so wish I could do something like this. Last time I tried to find those
small trim pieces I didn't turn up much. Now if your talking about me
me using silver where this dash is red?, I may have to get someone to
photoshop that for me before I give it a go.


----------



## LBaudio

I can do psh for you, but I think this red part goes well with other red parts in the car like doorpanels etc.


----------



## Wesayso

FLYONWALL9 said:


> I so wish I could do something like this. Last time I tried to find those
> small trim pieces I didn't turn up much. Now if your talking about me
> me using silver where this dash is red?, I may have to get someone to
> photoshop that for me before I give it a go.


Well yea... that was what I was suggesting . Don't need much reason to post that picture though! It is by far my favourite 911 interior picture.
I still want to do that to my dash...

About those tweeters, my tweeters are crossed/aimed in front of me in the centre and that works really really well to hide them acoustically. It also helps pin point the stage even with head movement, bigger sweet spot.


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## LBaudio




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## FLYONWALL9

LB,

THANKS for that photoshop. It pretty well looks like what I was thinking. 
I don't really think this would work on my car because where the silver
is on the dash just doesn't match up to where the silver is on the door. 
It will end up being a good 3-4 inches higher. I don't know how PS works,
but can you take a clip of the center part of my seat and place it where 
you put the silver on this dash? If you were to go back a few pages you
will see a door panel (not on my car) I pulled a photo of, that my door
panel will be made like. It has a mid panel also known as a 993 door
panel. Those are what mine will look like. Those mid panels line up nearly
perfectly with what you did in silver here. My mid panels will be the same
material as the centers of my seats. Also, that material in the middle of
my doors will carry on across the back of the car in a panel that will be 
about the same width as that on the door to tie the front and rear of that
theme together. I was also thinking of bringing that fabric into the center
console either in the shift boot or some other way. Perhaps an armrest and
shift boot would look best with fiberglass painted silver on the sides of the
console (like what you see in a GT2 or GT3). I'm quite far off from that part
of my build. But this will give you some idea of the design route I will take.

Thanks much for your efforts with the Photoshop, I would not even know
where to start with that stuff. I should learn, it could make my design
stage of building far easier. Sure beats trying to hash it out in your mind.

Cheers, hope you had a great weekend,
Scott


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## LBaudio

I can do that, but not until late afternoon. 
PSH is easy......


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## FLYONWALL9

*IT'S ALIVE!!!!!*

After months with the engine being refreshed, it is alive with no leaks
and back at the home front ready to get back where I left off with the
system.

If you are a Porsche owner and following this thread please contact me,
I have a few questions for you, IF you have a 3.2 with G50. I MAY need
some photo's taken of your engine compartment.

Happy to be back working on the audio and HOPE to make some good
progress. Hope everyone has been doing well and look forward to picking
up with you all where we left off.

CHEERS,
SCOTT


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## Datsubishi

Never posted on your build before, but always liked checking it out when it came up in new posts in the past. Glad to hear it's alive and we'll be seeing some progress again. At least now I'm sub'd for updates. I'll have to go through it from start to finish and make sure I didn't miss too much.


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## FLYONWALL9

Datsubishi said:


> Never posted on your build before, but always liked checking it out when it came up in new posts in the past. Glad to hear it's alive and we'll be seeing some progress again. At least now I'm sub'd for updates. I'll have to go through it from start to finish and make sure I didn't miss too much.


THANKS for the subscription. It can be a fun read, we tend to 
keep it an easy going thread with some serious stuff thrown in
from time to time. I don't mind too much if the topic is derailed 
or if we get on other subjects. Kinda like an ole guys hang out
where we talk about car audio with a few updates.

Cheers, enjoy, and chime in 

Scott


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## howlndog

Great to hear, Fly! 

If the snow would melt I would be getting ready to re-install my engine, too. Long, cold winter, this has been.

Hope all is well.


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## FLYONWALL9

Derek, 

Good to hear your just about ready for some power.... I have a few little
bits of my engine that could use some attention. I need some fuel lines
but I have having a real hard time keeping in touch with Len, the guy 
that makes pretty much all the DIY type fuel lines on Pelican. I did get
him in one email and he explained that he is building a cabin so he out
of pocket a great deal. What did you do for fuel lines? If you made them
or had someone make them for you how would you feel about hooking 
me up with them?

Post up a couple photo's of your car. Last time I saw it, it was pretty much
a shell. I'm sure all the other P-car guys on this thread would love to see it
as well. Are you still planning on using those 8's? A guy on Ebay has been 
trying to sell 3 10's for a pretty long time now. Surprised they haven't sold
he isn't asking much at all for them.

Cheers buddy


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## Victor_inox

I`d never install sound system in classic air cooled Porsche.


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## FLYONWALL9

Victor_inox said:


> I`d never install sound system in classic air cooled Porsche.


Why is that Victor?


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## Victor_inox

FLYONWALL9 said:


> Why is that Victor?


Engine makes such a wonderful music by itself and loud as well, soundproofing would be a nightmare and weight a lot, increasing weight not a good idea for such well balanced car. I owned same car but 1985 in black.


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## FLYONWALL9

Those were some of my original concerns as well. It was one of the soul reasons why I picked the materials and equipment I used. I have already done the sound deadening and suppression. I weighed all the old factory junk I pulled out vs what I put in its place and only gained about 12lbs in that area. The equipment weight is on the order of 40-50lbs taking into consideration the weight of the enclosure and panels, keeping in mind I'm also removing the rear seats. So, in all it really isn't gaining very much weight. 

As for the sweet engine noise, I agree. It does make a wonderful tone itself. However, on long trips or even trips to the beach or going fishing it does break up the monotony of the engine noise. I take road trips to Barber Motorsports Park and Atlanta Motorsports Park, so, some TopGun tunes does put one in the mood. 

You may enjoy the power adder I will be putting on the car at the end of the build. I am going one of two ways, will just have to see which route I decide to take.

Thanks for the input it is always great to have another P-car owner involved in the thread.


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## Victor_inox

Hey, It`s your car, you do as you pleased. 
I regret selling mine they don`t make them like that anymore. 
I might be just a little envy.


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## trojan fan

So, what are we looking at, another two years before you complete the build?


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## FLYONWALL9

Just received my new dash in UPS on Saturday. Still massing parts so I
can continue my build this fall...


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## Wesayso

Hey Fly, 

Some good news never hurt... how is the engine? Dit you get your fuel lines all sorted?
I had my CIS apart over the last couple of weeks and finally have everything back together. Hope to see you back at it soon!


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## xcoldricex

love your door pods! wanna make a mold and send me a pair?  would really love to fit 8" in the doors. are you happy with them?


----------



## FLYONWALL9

xcoldricex said:


> love your door pods! wanna make a mold and send me a pair?  would really love to fit 8" in the doors. are you happy with them?


Thanks for the kind remarks. What kind of car are you working
with? Do you have a build log, if so, I would love to view. Feel
free to post a link here, I don't mind one bit..

Are you needing/wanting the rear pod, or the door pocket part?

I got pretty motivated to make 8's fit from the amount of people
who said it couldn't be done without cutting any metal. 

Unfortunately, I cant tell you if I am happy with how they sound,
I have yet to hear anything play. This thread isn't just an audio
build but a full interior restoration. So, I have been sourcing parts
and supplies to build the car and the audio. Recently found two 
major things that have been holding up the build. One was a carpet
kit that didn't cost me 800 bucks. The other was a race/gate shifter. 
So, my budget being disabled and patience have paid off and the 
build can move forward. If you move back a couple of pages you 
will see I had the centers of the seats recovered, I am now moving
to have the black replaced for CANCAN red. This will be the last
part of the car I should have to pay someone to do.

Anyway, welcome to the thread. Work should resume very soon

Scott


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## trojan fan

Four years and counting, what's taking so long


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## FLYONWALL9

trojan fan said:


> Four years and counting, what's taking so long




Dude, 

you would do everyone a favor to find some other thread to troll. Not ONE SINGLE
person on this thread is interested in your negativity. If you really think you could
do any better as a person that has a disability, then good for you. So, unless you 
care to finance and do the work on my car, keep your comments to yourself. 

And it has been 6 years, quite honestly if it takes ME 5 more I really don't care! I 
don't think the 50 some odd thousand views this thread has gotten depends on 
what you say or do here.....

my you learn and gather some humility in your 2015


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## trojan fan

My bad! All this time I thought it was mental issues


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## RandyJ75

Dude, don't let the haters get you down. I have a disability as well, and I haven't even started my build. I admire the fact that you have the guts to start it and to work on it as long as you have. People who are not disabled don't understand what it's like to have a mind that looks at a problem, and thinks "I can do that, and that." but a body that won't let you do what you know in your mind you can, or could at one time, do.
I have all the stuff for my build. I just don't have the physical capability to do it; and I can't afford to have someone else do it (disability doesn't pay that well).

Keep pushing dude, you'll get there.

Good Luck,

Randy


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## ZombieHunter85

Just took the time to read this entire thread from the beginning, your work and attention to detail is amazing. How many times you changed the door panels is very inspiring to me a lot of people would have given up. You and the little time you have to work on this is what I like. So keep on going and don't give up. This makes me want to get off my ass and try fiberglassing for the first time. Love the houndstooth seats too! Very old school.


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## FLYONWALL9

RandyJ75 said:


> Dude, don't let the haters get you down. I have a disability as well, and I haven't even started my build. I admire the fact that you have the guts to start it and to work on it as long as you have. People who are not disabled don't understand what it's like to have a mind that looks at a problem, and thinks "I can do that, and that." but a body that won't let you do what you know in your mind you can, or could at one time, do.
> I have all the stuff for my build. I just don't have the physical capability to do it; and I can't afford to have someone else do it (disability doesn't pay that well).
> 
> Keep pushing dude, you'll get there.
> 
> Good Luck,
> 
> Randy


THANKS for this Randy!

You hit on my exact dilemma. The mind knows exactly what
to do, but most of the time my body are unable to preform. 
The fact about the funds is a HUGE factor. I think the amount
of time I have been working on this has afforded me the 
opportunity to find some great deals. If I had been working
at the speed I once could, no way would I have ended up with
the audio gear I have, or the supplies I have amassed to do the
job. I have nearly an entire room full of parts and supplies to 
use. I have saved countless thousands just by taking my time
and being patient while shopping. My latest score was a FACTORY
set of super rare CANCAN red carpets in the most expensive carpet
they used, 'silver knit' .... I would have never been able to use
that set of I were building on the same timeline most everyone
else here builds by. 

I really do appreciate those of you who encourage me to 'keep 
on keepin on'  it really means TONS to me!

All the best with your disability 
Scott


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## FLYONWALL9

ZombieHunter85 said:


> Just took the time to read this entire thread from the beginning, your work and attention to detail is amazing. How many times you changed the door panels is very inspiring to me a lot of people would have given up. You and the little time you have to work on this is what I like. So keep on going and don't give up. This makes me want to get off my ass and try fiberglassing for the first time. Love the houndstooth seats too! Very old school.


THANKS, for your kind words of encouragement! 

I'm still not 100% satisfied with the door pockets, but from 
what I have now I don't think I will need to start from scratch.
It not just comes down to if I am going to keep the painted to
match the body or cover them. I wont know that until it is all
together and installed. To see if it is "too much" and flows with
the rest of the install. 

Over this lengthy time frame I have come up with some really
slick idea's that aren't very difficult of build that should keep
you guy interested. So, do stay tuned once I move to the rear
of the car I'll start using some really cool materials and lots of
fiberglass to keep things lightweight. You wont see much if any
wood being used.

I've helped many first time fiberglass users here on the board.
If you get to the point of wanting to give it a try just send me 
a message and I would be happy to walk you through the 
process. Most of those I have helped had very good results 
and ended up being far easier than they thought.

Cheers,
Scott


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## ZombieHunter85

That's awesome I will surely let you know when I plan to start glassing!


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## FLYONWALL9

I just received the last piece in my old school Sony puzzle. I surf Ebay many times per week (never know what you might find) to look for the rare parts that never pop up elsewhere. Found a guy selling a PAC/Peripheral SONY unilink/ipod adapter, said it would work on ALL Sony unilink systems. I pretty well knew it wouldn't work, just so happened he has an XES-P1 // XES-X1 system in his truck and said he would give it a shot. In the same message I asked him if he happened to have a Sony XA-U40D. I ALWAYS ask sellers what else they may have, you just never know. I have only seen one of the pop up for sale in the past 5 years for over 400 bucks! Very likely it is as rare if not more so than the Sony XES-50, which he also has if I can talk him into a reasonable price. Anyway, he tells me his U40D has NEVER been installed or mounted and gave me a price which was a steal, 3 days later it is at the door. He told me it was just sitting on a shelf in a closet and thought I was a very deserving buyer. After I unboxed it and inspected I thought how nice he was to sell it let alone sell it so cheaply. So, I got on PAYPAL wrote him a thank you message and sent extra money for him to take his wife out to a nice steak dinner. 

Long story I know, but this world should be filled with people like this seller/collector who realized/recognized someone who was looking for an item they had just sitting in a closet doing no one any good, and willing to part with it so someone could get some enjoyment from it.

Cheers all have a great weekend!
FLY



CHECK OUT THOSE SCREW HOLES, never mounted


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## SSCustoms

That's awesome! Are you looking for a Sony iPod adaptor? I'm pretty sure I have one at my shop.


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## FLYONWALL9

SSCustoms said:


> That's awesome! Are you looking for a Sony iPod adaptor? I'm pretty sure I have one at my shop.


Depends on what kind of adapter it is. Take some photo's and
post them if you would. 

Cheers


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## FLYONWALL9

Those that have been following my build, take a look at what BING 
and one of his installers did. They FINALLY got their hands on an 
air cooled Porsche. I have been waiting a very long time to see what
he would do to one of these cars. Though it doesn't have near the
amount of gear I am trying to stuff in my car the outcome is very 
close to what I have envisioned in my own car in the rear. It came
out VERY nice. So i encourage ya'll to give it a view.

Cheers,
Scott

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...0-porsche-964-morel-illusion-mosconi-arc.html


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## Wesayso

Kinda disappointed he didn't put the sub in the trunk!


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## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> Kinda disappointed he didn't put the sub in the trunk!


I had a feeling you might say that.. LOL :laugh::laugh:


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## mrnix

Any updates on the Porsche? My dad has a 911 Carrera 2, and being a former installer, I have a bunch of spare stuff around and thought about upgrading what's in there. It had the Alpine in-dash 3 disc player, but it wasn't working right, and I swapped it for an Eclipse 5303 for now. I am a big Sony MObile ES fan though, and would like to see if I can work some of my ES stuff in there. The room in the convertible is a little tighter, though.  And obviously sound will be compromised due to road noise, but I'm willing to give it a shot.


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## FLYONWALL9

mrnix said:


> Any updates on the Porsche? My dad has a 911 Carrera 2, and being a former installer, I have a bunch of spare stuff around and thought about upgrading what's in there. It had the Alpine in-dash 3 disc player, but it wasn't working right, and I swapped it for an Eclipse 5303 for now. I am a big Sony MObile ES fan though, and would like to see if I can work some of my ES stuff in there. The room in the convertible is a little tighter, though. And obviously sound will be compromised due to road noise, but I'm willing to give it a shot.



REALLY SORRY for taking so long to reply. I have been trying
for a few weeks to have my password reset without any luck
at all, until I tried a couple FB pages and a mod saved the day.

We are getting to the time of year I would rather work in and 
some progress should be made. I've done nothing but spend,
spend, spend! Most on items for the car. 

As you already know ragtops really aren't a place for very 
serious systems. If I had one I'm not so sure I would go much
farther than doing a decent set of components with an amp on
them and a decent two way for the rear.


----------



## ryomanx

Haven't really been active on the forum in a LONG while but, it's nice to see you're still at it. Now to re-read this whole thread!


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## FLYONWALL9

ryomanx said:


> Haven't really been active on the forum in a LONG while but, it's nice to see you're still at it. Now to re-read this whole thread!


Thanks, we are finally starting to have cool enough days for
me to work on it again.


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## LunaticConcepts

Really diggin the build! Who cares if it takes 2 days or 2 decades to build. No matter how long it takes, YOU know YOU will do it right and have done it YOURSELF, now that's something to be proud of!


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## Wesayso

Hope to see you working on it again soon...


----------



## FLYONWALL9

LunaticConcepts said:


> Really diggin the build! Who cares if it takes 2 days or 2 decades to build. No matter how long it takes, YOU know YOU will do it right and have done it YOURSELF, now that's something to be proud of!


Thanks for the compliments and your support. That is the 
exact thing that fueled me to build and finish the boat I built
then the motorcycle. Without doing those two things 1st I 
wouldn't have been able to pay cash for the car. It WILL get
done this year, least the inside. I've got TONS of different 
things to build being I'm working with a shell of a car. All 
the internal panels will be 1 off's. All of the factory parts
are being stored so that if needed I can just swap it all right
back in the car. 

glad you enjoyed reading about the build, I've tried to keep
it very light not worrying about derails. It's about comradery,
the same comradery I formed while in the AF and miss so much.
So feel free to post here whatever you wish, so long as it's
positive...

you have a great weekend
Scott


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## FLYONWALL9

Wesayso said:


> Hope to see you working on it again soon...


You bet I am sir! THIS is going to be MY YEAR! Not just for 
this project but many other personal ones.

And you Sir, how have you been? Have you played any with
those crazy 8's I once owned? I NEVER see them for sale and
I look often on all my sources. Just last week a pair popped up
for sale and got me wondering if you even still had them?

You have a great weekend ole friend,
Scott


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## FLYONWALL9

ryomanx said:


> Haven't really been active on the forum in a LONG while but, it's nice to see you're still at it. Now to re-read this whole thread!


Thanks for your loyalty. I'll NEVER stop until I have it playing
and up to scratch! 

Cheers,
Scott


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I told myself months ago I wouldn't buy any new gear, and have stuck 
to my guns. For the most part the only needed parts are rca ends, and
some EL WIRE/sheet. 

BUT when an Sony CDX-C90 pops up for 120 bucks and is in fantastic
shape only missing it's box. Well, you've gotta jump on it. The conundrum
is to use this or the XES system? Using the C90 will only cut down on
the fab of the center console, where the P1 and X1 will be mounted, one
on each side of the console. It will only amount to one less 'black box.'
It will also cost me another 600-1000 for a current processor. I don't want
to use of an XPD-4000, unless I can find one dirt cheap. I would rather
run an ARC PS8 or Helix DSP PRO MKII... 

SO, what do you guys think?


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## KillerBox

Subscribed


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## FLYONWALL9

I know I haven't posted much on my build, just wanted all of you to know it wasn't abandoned. Health issues have gotten in the way of any sort of steady progress. Also, I've had to spend money on other things. Where it stands now is, I've had my seats completed, ordered and had various factory-style carpet pieces made, and a few other little odds and ends. I also had a few great deals thrown my way for the build in my SUV. Through those deals, I now have all the equipment needed to complete it aside from little things like RCA's and other wires. That is the attached photo. Anyway, I'll keep adding to this as I am able to and I hope all y'all are doing well, happy 2020!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Not all of my page is loading on this crap computer so I don't know if this photo is already on here. My seats.


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## Wesayso

Haven't been here in ages, but good to see you're still at it! I've been too busy with my home install over these last few years. The 911 is not in use atm. so car audio has suffered as I don't have plans yet for my '99 Audi TT.
I don't think I have seen these finished seats, they do look cool! Happy 2020 to you too!


----------



## justin30513

I have some major spine issues....I had my L5 S1 fusion in Dec 2018. Then, 10 months later, I had my L4 L5 fusion in Sept 2019. I found out 25 days ago that after 5 months, 2 of the 6 pedicle screws have backed out and is causing me intense pain. So I will have to have another surgery to correct the past surgeon's eff up.
I've had 2 builds on hold during this time. I can definitely understand the frustration. I just read your entire build pretty much page for page and LOVED seeing the two seats here at the current point of the build.
It was certainly something I needed to read today as my depression had really kicked in but this has been inspiring!
Thank you for continuing on with your creation and for sharing it with us all here!
PLEASE DON'T STOP!


----------



## FLYONWALL9

justin30513 said:


> I have some major spine issues....I had my L5 S1 fusion in Dec 2018. Then, 10 months later, I had my L4 L5 fusion in Sept 2019. I found out 25 days ago that after 5 months, 2 of the 6 pedicle screws have backed out and is causing me intense pain. So I will have to have another surgery to correct the past surgeon's eff up.
> I've had 2 builds on hold during this time. I can definitely understand the frustration. I just read your entire build pretty much page for page and LOVED seeing the two seats here at the current point of the build.
> It was certainly something I needed to read today as my depression had really kicked in but this has been inspiring!
> Thank you for continuing on with your creation and for sharing it with us all here!
> PLEASE DON'T STOP!


Oh, no chance I'll stop Justin! I keep up with your story on FB when you post updates. Your problems along with the problems from friends are 1 of many reasons why I haven't gone the fuse route and doubt I ever will. I'm glad you got around to reading the build and its helped you some, that is a big reason why I started this thread in hopes someone like you would read it. Sometimes we need to see/hear there is hope and no matter how bad we hurt there are days (some fewer than most) where we can make positive gains. This is why through this injury I have always had a project to work on. I need something to put the effort in and get me out of bed or off the couch on those days I feel decent. 

Because the car has sat for so long I now have several other things I'll have to address before actually driving the car once I have the interior back in it. The suspension being a 33 year old car was marginal..


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## Wesayso

I hope you're still at it. I sold my 911. 
It was side tracked for a couple of years and it's condition wasn't getting any better. Pretty sure I wasn't up to tackling a complete restore. I sold it to a befriended mechanic.

We can't win em all I guess. I hope you can finish yours!


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## JohnnyOhh

that Sony ES gear looks niiiice, seats look cool too!


----------

