# 8 ohm sucks



## Fish Chris 2 (Dec 18, 2019)

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the only reason we see so many 8 ohm drivers, is because they were primarily designed for home, or pro concert use. How about some good, strong mid bass and mid range drivers designed with car audio in mind. No more than 4 ohm, but maybe even a 2 ohm option ?

It just takes TWICE as much amplifier, to make enough wattage playing into an 8 ohm load, and that is kind of a PITA.

Edit; I just found a Class A/B amp that is rated down to 1 ohm, and at that resistance, can make 1350 wts RMS per side ! Too bad nobody makes a 10" or 12", 1 ohm mid bass driver  Just think how well a 12" mid bass driver with that kind of wattage could fill in between a very powerful sub woofer setup, and a couple of bad ass horns ?


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## captainbuff (Mar 11, 2017)

Fish Chris 2 said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong, but the only reason we see so many 8 ohm drivers, is because they were primarily designed for home, or pro concert use. How about some good, strong mid bass and mid range drivers designed with car audio in mind. No more than 4 ohm, but maybe even a 2 ohm option ?
> 
> It just takes TWICE as much amplifier, to make enough wattage playing into an 8 ohm load, and that is kind of a PITA.
> 
> Edit; I just found a Class A/B amp that is rated down to 1 ohm, and at that resistance, can make 1350 wts RMS per side ! Too bad nobody makes a 10" or 12", 1 ohm mid bass driver  Just think how well a 12" mid bass driver with that kind of wattage could fill in between a very powerful sub woofer setup, and a couple of bad ass horns ?


G'day mate  
Do you have a problem with mid bass in your current car(s); or was that just a general question? Are you thinking about the possibility of putting 10" or 12" mid bass drivers in your doors...?


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

Fish Chris 2 said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong, but the only reason we see so many 8 ohm drivers, is because they were primarily designed for home, or pro concert use. How about some good, strong mid bass and mid range drivers designed with car audio in mind. No more than 4 ohm, but maybe even a 2 ohm option ?
> 
> It just takes TWICE as much amplifier, to make enough wattage playing into an 8 ohm load, and that is kind of a PITA.
> 
> Edit; I just found a Class A/B amp that is rated down to 1 ohm, and at that resistance, can make 1350 wts RMS per side ! Too bad nobody makes a 10" or 12", 1 ohm mid bass driver  Just think how well a 12" mid bass driver with that kind of wattage could fill in between a very powerful sub woofer setup, and a couple of bad ass horns ?


two things here. 

1)most people that just want to get stupid loud, dont give two ****s about SQ, 
100 watts into a 4ohm driver gets WAY louder than you will listen to it and certianly louder than you can actually hear good music at.
2) higher ohms do have a good use. when you use a class A/B amplifier with something like an HLCD there is one property of that amplifier that makes sound sub-par. lets say you have an HLCD that is 112db 1w/1m. this is much louder than you will listen to it, so you will be listening at less than 1 watt in most cases.

that property is known as zero-cross distortion. on a class A/B there 1 set of transistors for the positive portion of the wave and 1 set for the negative. this issue arrises where the transistors are in the "off-state" below 0.7 volts. and that is for each polarity. so you have a space from -0.7v to +0.7v , 1.4 volts total that the transistors are off.

1 watt into a 1 ohm load would be 1 volt of signal. so you would get literally no sound. at 4 ohms it is 2 volts. so you have 0.6 volts total signal(30%) of "on-state" signal. beleive me it sounds like ****.

I ran 32 ohms on my HLCDs, meant that 1 watts required 5.6 volts of signal. 12 watts required an amplifier that was capable of about 100 watts per channel at 4 ohms. but here is the deal, 1 watt at 32 ohms, with the zero-cross losses makes for 75% signal. massive improvment.


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## Caustic (May 13, 2018)

8 ohms isn't all that bad, doesn't take a lot of juice to make something with 96db get loud AF. 

Power is pretty cheap these days, grab something like a tried and true jad800.4 and bridge it, that'll give you 250ish watts at 8 ohms.


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## Fish Chris 2 (Dec 18, 2019)

captainbuff said:


> G'day mate
> Do you have a problem with mid bass in your current car(s); or was that just a general question? Are you thinking about the possibility of putting 10" or 12" mid bass drivers in your doors...?


Hey Captain. No, actually my little $12 Parts Express closeout mid bass drivers do surprisingly well with my current system.

But now that I'm looking into Horns for a future build, my concerns are, 1) I'd be going from 4 mid bass drivers to 2 (not that I'd have to, but one of the criteria for my next build, is going to be as few speakers as possible) and 2) I'll be trying to keep up with Horns on the top end, and an even more powerful sub woofer setup on the bottom. Only one subwoofer too, but at least 18" with 5-8 Kwts pushing it.

So yes, I'm totally thinking about 10"s or 12"s... But to be honest, I think they just need be 2 ohm either way.


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## Fish Chris 2 (Dec 18, 2019)

minbari said:


> two things here.
> 
> 1)most people that just want to get stupid loud, dont give two ****s about SQ,
> 100 watts into a 4ohm driver gets WAY louder than you will listen to it and certianly louder than you can actually hear good music at.
> ...


Minbari, first off, great post ! I knew a little bit about cross losses and why higher resistance was good for home and pro audio, but your response made that much easier to understand. I think that is great info to know for the horns.

But for just regular mid bass drivers, I dunno..... I'm giving 300 wts RMS to four 8" mid bass drivers and they are not crazy loud. I mean, they keep up to my current 18" sub which is getting 2600 wts, okay..... But I don't think they could keep up to a pair of horns, and an even stronger sub woofer setup.

Oh, but as to your first point..... I guess I'm not like most people 👍 I am really wanting to create an SQL system with a great sound stage, with a beautiful EQ curve, no discernable peaks or valleys, next to zero cross cancellations (hence the super strong system with only 5 speakers total) and yet I want it to be able to hit 140 db's with music.

That's the kind of SQL system that would really me happy 🙂

PS, Most of those 140 db's would obviously come from the 18" sub with tons of wattage..... And that would actually be easy peasy, if it were tuned for SPL's. The hard part will be keeping it pretty loud, but being able to play pretty darn flat from 15-80 hz. 
Fortunately, I am close to a guru who can design that.... And then I can build it 😉


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## DoubleCrown (Jun 26, 2019)

Do some more research mr fish. Your subs may output 140db- but full range at 140? You may as well just burst your own eardrums with a pen.


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## Fish Chris 2 (Dec 18, 2019)

Caustic said:


> 8 ohms isn't all that bad, doesn't take a lot of juice to make something with 96db get loud AF.
> 
> Power is pretty cheap these days, grab something like a tried and true jad800.4 and bridge it, that'll give you 250ish watts at 8 ohms.


Just a lot easier / cheaper with a 2 ohm mid bass driver.....
Even a 4 ohm wouldn't be too bad if your using a bridged four channel amp.


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## DoubleCrown (Jun 26, 2019)

And nothing will ever play flat from 15 80 in a car, the space is too small. Why would you want to? Are you familiar with the differences in desired house curves between between cars and say a room?


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## Fish Chris 2 (Dec 18, 2019)

Hey guys, btw, I talked to Eric Stevens by phone this morning, after I made this OP.
Very nice, helpful guy. He does actually have 8" 2 ohm mid bass drivers for sale. Wish they were 10" or even 12"s.... But he says they do really well matched up with a pair of horns. So hen if they can keep up to a super strong sub, that would be impressive


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

minbari said:


> two things here.
> ..
> 2) ...
> that property is known as zero-cross distortion. on a class A/B there 1 set of transistors for the positive portion of the wave and 1 set for the negative. this issue arrises where the transistors are in the "off-state" below 0.7 volts. and that is for each polarity. so you have a space from -0.7v to +0.7v , 1.4 volts total that the transistors are off.
> ...


That description sounds more like Class-B?

I thought Class A/B biased the plus side so it goes from say -0.1V up, and the negative side from +0.1V down?




Fish Chris 2 said:


> Hey guys, btw, I talked to Eric Stevens by phone this morning, after I made this OP.
> Very nice, helpful guy. He does actually have 8" 2 ohm mid bass drivers for sale. Wish they were 10" or even 12"s.... But he says they do really well matched up with a pair of horns. So hen if they can keep up to a super strong sub, that would be impressive


I would trust his advice.


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## Fish Chris 2 (Dec 18, 2019)

DoubleCrown said:


> Do some more research mr fish. Your subs may output 140db- but full range at 140? You may as well just burst your own eardrums with a pen.


 Yes, that's what I was saying....the sub at 140. The rest of the music loud enough to hear well, but certainly not 140 on the horns, even if that was possible 🙂


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Fish Chris 2 said:


> Yes, that's what I was saying....the sub at 140. The rest of the music loud enough to hear well, but certainly not 140 on the horns, even if that was possible 🙂


Quantifying that SPL may be worthwhile.

For a lot of poeple it is in the 85-95 dB(A) range.
dB(A) specifically ignores the subwoofer range, and that is measured in dB(C).

If you really want 110+ dB(A), then that will be clearly in the OSHA hearing loss range, and require some significant work to achieve.


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## Mic10is (Aug 20, 2007)

Actually many Pro Audio drivers that are 8ohm are extremely efficient with sensitivity +/-90db.
Compared to most 4ohm drivers of similar size which measure in the mid 80s and are often measured at ,2.83v instead of 1/1.

What this means is you'll need alot less wattage to achieve the same loudness using an 8ohm vs 4ohm driver.


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## Fish Chris 2 (Dec 18, 2019)

###


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## Fish Chris 2 (Dec 18, 2019)

Holmz said:


> Quantifying that SPL may be worthwhile.
> 
> For a lot of poeple it is in the 85-95 dB(A) range.
> dB(A) specifically ignores the subwoofer range, and that is measured in dB(C).
> ...


Learn something everyday  I've seen dBA and dBC before, but had no idea what it meant. TY.


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## Fish Chris 2 (Dec 18, 2019)

DoubleCrown said:


> And nothing will ever play flat from 15 80 in a car, the space is too small. Why would you want to? Are you familiar with the differences in desired house curves between between cars and say a room?


Its entirely possible, but not easy. If this stereo can do it at 160 dB'ish, and play from 18-80, 




140 sounds like a piece of cake  Not really. But doable.... and with a LOT less equipment. We know of course the difference between 140 and 160 dB's is night and day. 
BTW, I talked to the guy that built this, Brian Chamberlain a few weeks back. I'd consider having him design my sub enclosure. But we have another one of the top sub woofer gurus right here in Sacramento, Bobby Gately, who can design anything that physics allow  I'd build it though. Building them is easy. The design is what takes skills.

Oh, and to answer your question as to "why you would want to" because hair tricks are fun  Also, people pay good money for a massage. Why, when you can get one sitting in your car ..... but then, I'm also one of those guys who likes music too. SQL FTW


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## Fish Chris 2 (Dec 18, 2019)

Anyway, I'm glad I posted this, as I've learned a lot. Maybe 8 ohms is not "all bad"  lol I was just looking at the LONG list of 8 ohm mid bass drivers available, and they have some very impressive specs. Plus, one can find 10"s and even 12"s that are fairly shallow (doable in the doors of an F150)

So now I have another question about powering these things.... class A/B or class D ? What are the differences concerning mid bass. Of course I know that most mids / highs are powered with Class A/B, and most sub woofers with Class D, but what about mid bass ? It would be cheaper, and run cooler, to use class D.... but would that hurt the SQ in any noticeable way ?


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## opekone (Mar 24, 2020)

Fish Chris 2 said:


> Its entirely possible, but not easy. If this stereo can do it at 160 dB'ish, and play from 18-80,
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm not sure what kind of magic Gately does but I do appreciate how he mounts his subs in the corners of this box, diagonally, rather than straight across. I assume this spaces the woofers out more to get a more efficient coupling of the two drivers.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Fish Chris 2 said:


> Anyway, I'm glad I posted this, as I've learned a lot. Maybe 8 ohms is not "all bad"  lol?..
> ...


If higher footage amplifiers are not easy to build using 12V input.
Much easier using lower voltage and higher current.

If it was not the case, then you would see less 1-ohm amplifiers,and less 1 and 2 ohm speakers.


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## Fish Chris 2 (Dec 18, 2019)

opekone said:


> I'm not sure what kind of magic Gately does but I do appreciate how he mounts his subs in the corners of this box, diagonally, rather than straight across. I assume this spaces the woofers out more to get a more efficient coupling of the two drivers.
> 
> View attachment 272426


We'll put it this way, he has built enclosures for SMD. Super nice guy too. I met him in person recently and we talked for quite a while. It seems to me that besides using all the parameters of a subwoofer, he pays a lot more attention to the vehicle than most. 
I told him I was an SQL kind of guy, and that I loved HUGE bandwidth. And he just shrugged and said, "That's easy... But it will cost you a few dB's".... Hey if I only hit 143 instead big 146, I'm okay with that 🙂
He talked about 6th orders... And my truck.... Told me F150 Supercab (with the big flexy cab, and no pillars) was good for deep bass. That's cool. I thought all the cab flex would hurt it....
What's cool is, he said he would totally design something for me for like $150-200.... Which not only would save me a lot of cash, but I could brag that I built biult myself 😉


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Fish Chris 2 said:


> ...
> ...Which not only would save me a lot of cash, but I could brag that I built biult myself 😉



Saves you time from doing 3-4 test boxes.
Saves you money for ^those^ materials.
And for bragging, one can also include building it to a proper design.


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## Fish Chris 2 (Dec 18, 2019)

Holmz said:


> Saves you time from doing 3-4 test boxes.
> Saves you money for ^those^ materials.
> And for bragging, one can also include building it to a proper design.


Yea, as nice as my current box came out, it was based on a very simple design. 
If I were to do something really fancy, like a sixth order, I wouldn't even screw around. $200 for the design, $200 more for the wood, glue and screws. Bam $400 for a world class box 👍


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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

Class D. All the class A/B stuff is left over from back when Class D was in its infancy and had pretty high distortion to offset its higher efficiency. Its not a problem anymore. Class D everything. ITS FINE.


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## Fish Chris 2 (Dec 18, 2019)

Thank you Js. I'd like to think so. Class D runs so much cooler, and is available in bigger power.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Many class-D amps are reaching their rated power at 0.5 or 1 ohm.

I guess the "8-ohm relationship" is that a 6400w amp rated at 0.5 ohms will be doing around 400w into 8-ohms.
At that point one might as well use one of those 301M amps that is for sale... and using a pair of those amps for the MB should be plenty.


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## Caustic (May 13, 2018)

FSX10 | 10" 400 Watt Mid-Range Loudspeaker


The Skar Audio FSX10 10" mid-range speaker is the optimal choice when looking to enhance your mid-range sound in your audio setup. Conservatively rated at 400 watts max power and available in 4 ohm and 8 ohm coil configurations.



www.skaraudio.com





Skar makes a 10" PA 4 ohmer


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## OGJordan (Sep 26, 2006)

I don't know if anyone has directed you to this post, but there's a lot of great info in it. From the original DIYMobileAudio when it was amazing and not the ****show it is now: The "Real Deal" with 8 ohm drivers


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## Fish Chris 2 (Dec 18, 2019)

Caustic said:


> FSX10 | 10" 400 Watt Mid-Range Loudspeaker
> 
> 
> The Skar Audio FSX10 10" mid-range speaker is the optimal choice when looking to enhance your mid-range sound in your audio setup. Conservatively rated at 400 watts max power and available in 4 ohm and 8 ohm coil configurations.
> ...


Yea, and I think for the money, those are probably a great value. (love kyvSkar 18" ZVX 🙂) I mean for $29, how could one go wrong ? I'm just thinking they might be a little bit light duty, to match up to the horns on the top end, and a crazy high powered 18" sub on the bottom. 
I mean just the fact that these only use a 1 1/2" voice coil.... vs the Beyma 12" that uses a 3" voice coil, and is 400 wts RMS...


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## Fish Chris 2 (Dec 18, 2019)

Holmz said:


> Many class-D amps are reaching their rated power at 0.5 or 1 ohm.
> 
> I guess the "8-ohm relationship" is that a 6400w amp rated at 0.5 ohms will be doing around 400w into 8-ohms.
> At that point one might as well use one of those 301M amps that is for sale... and using a pair of those amps for the MB should be plenty.


I was checking out the Skar Class D 4 ch, that could be bridged to make 2 ch X 500 wts RMS into 4 ohms. It goes for $399.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Fish Chris 2 said:


> I was checking out the Skar Class D 4 ch, that could be bridged to make 2 ch X 500 wts RMS into 4 ohms. It goes for $399.


Maybe read this classic linked in OGJordan's thread?



OGJordan said:


> I don't know if anyone has directed you to this post, but there's a lot of great info in it. From the original DIYMobileAudio when it was amazing and not the ****show it is now: The "Real Deal" with 8 ohm drivers


You could bridge and run the 8-ohm, and dependîng on the speakers end up way ahead.


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## Fish Chris 2 (Dec 18, 2019)

Holmz said:


> Maybe read this classic linked in OGJordan's thread?
> 
> 
> 
> You could bridge and run the 8-ohm, and dependîng on the speakers end up way ahead.


Yes, I actually read that whole thread. Very interesting. I do get most of that, but after looking for a bit, I think I've found a few 4 ohm options that will work.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Fish Chris 2 said:


> Yes, I actually read that whole thread. Very interesting. I do get most of that, but after looking for a bit, I think I've found a few 4 ohm options that will work.


The question then is, what are their SPL sensitivities at 2.84v for both the 4 and 8 ohm flavours?
If they are the same, then there is no advantage to 4-ohm.

If they are not close to the same efficiency, then you have a valid reason for 2 or 4 ohm.


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## Sam Spade (Mar 16, 2020)

I always thought for SPL sensitivity is the important metric for 8 4 or 2 ohm speakers. 4 and 8 are easier to drive without an amp ****ting itself. 

I reckon that hi current hi power class AB isn't just good for mids and tweets i think generally they grab a subwoofer by the balls and give you more dynamic bass with better extension. This isn't cheap though. But insanely good. HERTZ HP802 2 channels car stereo amplifier 783050113103 | eBay

And the big Hertz SPL class D come up refurbished on ebay Hertz HP3001 HP 3001 - Class D Mono Amplifeir 1x 3600 Watts Car Amp | eBay

However the hypex plate amplifiers are the first class D that really grabbed my attention. Great reviews. 









Hypex NC400 DIY Class D Amplifiers Build & Review - Audio Appraisal


no-nonsense amplifiers with breakthrough technical performance and stunning sonics, some of the best amplification you can buy at any price.



www.audioappraisal.com





Build them yourself. I assume you could get a car power supply. @Holmz put me onto these. Do you know if you can set them up for a car holmz?


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

@Sam Spade you're dreaming.
One cannot get an extension cord that brings the AC to car.

For a home system, the premise Hypex plate amps made sense for me on subwoofers, as they are 500w x 2 or bridged to 1000w x1.

If we knew how much the power was needed it would Ben a start.

Lastly the "grab em by the curlies", has a metric we call the "damping factor". So whether it is class-A, AB, or D we can use that metric.


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## Sam Spade (Mar 16, 2020)

Holmz said:


> @Sam Spade you're dreaming.
> One cannot get an extension cord that brings the AC to car.
> 
> For a home system, the premise Hypex plate amps made sense for me on subwoofers, as they are 500w x 2 or bridged to 1000w x1.
> ...


Can't you use an inverter and rig something up @Holmz? Youre the genius after all. And they don't make car kits?

Yes doesnt the hypex have a damping factor of 1000? And the Hertz class AB SPL802 is 500. And the class D SPL3001 is 150. 

Ive never seen a class D with a damping factor of 1000 before. And the words that audiophiles who take measurements, both the magic and numerical, suggest for a clean uncoloured unfatiguing accurate sound you can use the hypex for your whole system not just subs. 

Can i ask what a hypex 2 x 250 kit costs? I might build one and see if it is better than my beloved Rotel RB1080 200wpc into 8, df 500. And are you sure 1000 is enough watts holmz 🤣

I'm assuming thats into 8 ohms? Or 4?


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Sam Spade said:


> Can't you use an inverter and rig something up @Holmz? Youre the genius after all. And they don't make car kits?
> 
> Yes doesnt the hypex have a damping factor of 1000? And the Hertz class AB SPL802 is 500. And the class D SPL3001 is 150.
> 
> ...


Well one could use a capacitor bank, and then an inverter...
But why not just get a good regulated amp and be done with it?

Damping factor is a bit of an overblown magical number... it gets better when the speakers are 8 or 16 ohms. And at some point the words of audiophiles need to be backed up with facts.

I got the plate amps as I wanted to just bolt the powered amp to the back of the subwoofer and be done with it. I think 1000w is enough (way overkill), as the Mrs is always saying to turn it down anyhow.

At some point one needs to know what it is that is either required, or what is affecting SQ, or what it is that is needed.
I doubt inverters, and damping factor are the right place to be looking... that is a class-D amp, and you said class-AB grabs em...

Just pick a wattage number and speakers, and find what gear works that fits the budget and exists.


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## Sam Spade (Mar 16, 2020)

I've read a number of reviews by people who take measurements use numbers and poke fun at audiophile magic fairy dust who rekon the hypex plate amps are far and away the best class D they have heard and match their reference class AB amps. Which is why i wanted to know how much.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Sam Spade said:


> I've read a number of reviews by people who take measurements use numbers and poke fun at audiophile magic fairy dust who rekon the hypex plate amps are far and away the best class D they have heard and match their reference class AB amps. Which is why i wanted to know much.


The amps I purchased are home amps.

I got them pretty much because old mate in Sydney said look at these.

And the specs looks like they would work... in particular the distortion was low, which probbaly doesn't matter for a subwoofer...
And the noise was also low... which also matters more for a tweeter than a subwoofer.

That is about all I know, I am still trying to find the box dimensions so I cut the wood.


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## Caustic (May 13, 2018)

Aren't the biketronics amps hypex? They can be made for the car, they're tiny, they have big power, no need for inverters or cap banks


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## Sam Spade (Mar 16, 2020)

Caustic said:


> Aren't the biketronics amps hypex? They can be made for the car, they're tiny, they have big power, no need for inverters or cap banks


Ill look them up. Could be worth a thread.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

There are already numerous biketronics mentions.
And secondly; I am not sure it belongs in Chris' "8 ohm sucks" thread.

This is worth a read, but Chris already read the link.



OGJordan said:


> I don't know if anyone has directed you to this post, but there's a lot of great info in it. From the original DIYMobileAudio when it was amazing and not the ****show it is now: The "Real Deal" with 8 ohm drivers


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## Sam Spade (Mar 16, 2020)

Holmz said:


> There are already numerous biketronics mentions.
> And secondly; I am not sure it belongs in Chris' "8 ohm sucks" thread.
> 
> This is worth a read, but Chris already read the link.


Read it. Confirmed my thoughts.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Sam Spade said:


> Read it. Confirmed my thoughts.


Confirmation Bias always confirms our thoughts...


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## Sam Spade (Mar 16, 2020)

Holmz said:


> Confirmation Bias always confirms our thoughts...


Read it. My understanding of watts and ohms and sensitivity was technically correct. 😄


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## DoubleCrown (Jun 26, 2019)

If the subs are exerting that much force- moving that much air with authority- you have to wonder how you expect your front stage will behave. At some point they must become smelly passive radiators


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## DoubleCrown (Jun 26, 2019)

Legend has it SMD stopped making boxes when he met Bobby Gately.


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## Sam Spade (Mar 16, 2020)

DoubleCrown said:


> If the subs are exerting that much force- moving that much air with authority- you have to wonder how you expect your front stage will behave. At some point they must become smelly passive radiators


Why Double Crown? Anything to do with the Philips TDA1541A S2 double crown d/a converter? 






Philips TDA1541A S2 double crown d/a converter - DutchAudioClassics.nl


DutchAudioClassics.nl - Photos and information of classic Marantz & Philips cd-players




www.dutchaudioclassics.nl


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## DoubleCrown (Jun 26, 2019)

Sam Spade said:


> Why Double Crown? Anything to do with the Philips TDA1541A S2 double crown d/a converter?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


It’s like a child to me


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## DoubleCrown (Jun 26, 2019)

Five percent of the population has *two* whorls. A double hair whorl is sometimes referred to as a double crown. In 10%, whorl direction is counter-clockwise.
Basically I have **** hair


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## Sam Spade (Mar 16, 2020)

DoubleCrown said:


> Five percent of the population has *two* whorls. A double hair whorl is sometimes referred to as a double crown. In 10%, whorl direction is counter-clockwise.
> Basically I have **** hair


I have great hair (what's left) but I have a classic circa 1990 Mazantz CD80 at home upgraded with the double crown TDA154 DAC, low jitter digital clock and solid state opamps in the output stage replacing the IC's from Burson in Melbourne and new caps. I've had it 30 years it has the best error correction of any optical disc player i've owned. It will play the most scratched discs. It isn't as detailed as my newer players but it's just as musical and is wonderful with simple acoustic music.


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## DoubleCrown (Jun 26, 2019)

I appreciate your passion, did you every drive a cab by any chance haha?


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## S.C. Robert1999 (Jul 11, 2016)

Fish Chris 2 said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong, but the only reason we see so many 8 ohm drivers, is because they were primarily designed for home, or pro concert use. How about some good, strong mid bass and mid range drivers designed with car audio in mind. No more than 4 ohm, but maybe even a 2 ohm option ?
> 
> It just takes TWICE as much amplifier, to make enough wattage playing into an 8 ohm load, and that is kind of a PITA.
> 
> Edit; I just found a Class A/B amp that is rated down to 1 ohm, and at that resistance, can make 1350 wts RMS per side ! Too bad nobody makes a 10" or 12", 1 ohm mid bass driver  Just think how well a 12" mid bass driver with that kind of wattage could fill in between a very powerful sub woofer setup, and a couple of bad ass horns ?



Its not that bad just wire them in parallel and get 2 ohms. In 1990 I had (4) 4 ohm 10s wired in parallel down to .9 ohms. It worked great but the amp would get hot and the thermal protection would shut it down.


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