# Rob's 01 Maxima (first install)



## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

Whatsup guys, i'm a fairly new member here, no expert. I think i got some exceptional equipment listed in my signature, and a fairly nice new car haha. Last car (94 maxima) blew up a couple months ago, and i'm ready to bump again. Last install was done by some random guy for 100 bucks, horrible. I plan on doing it the right way this time even though i'm only 17, with no previous experience.  









Today I removed the rear deck which involved much more than I expected:








Found some light foam in my dad's garage, and I heard somewhere that the seatbelt holders (white/clear plastic cups that hang in trunk) rattle a bit so I inserted some foam into all 4 corners of each holder. 
















Deadened top and bottom of rear deck:
















with ensolite over the license plate size hole in the deck:

















Install might take 2 weeks or more, still have to finish up my subwoofer box which will be in the next post, recarpet and figure a way to make old kick panels fit in the new car, and do the actual wire install.

guide me as I go, let me know of any uncertainties or things I should watch out for, thanks guys!


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

Midbass door baffles made, applying 2 coats of polyurethane to waterproof them later.










Driver's side door deadened + ensolite:
























First door turned out decent I think, going to do the next hopefully tomorrow.
Let me know how the sound deadening looks so far.

Also, if anyone else plans on sound deadening their doors, its a good opportunity to get some window lube and put it in your window channels, gets rid of squeaks and increases the speed of your power windows quite nicely. Very happy with how my door is now


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

Todays work was the finishing the box, carpeting was rough, went through 3 cans of adhesive, all different types...Box came out pretty decent though.


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

Reserved for modded old kick panels / full install


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## pontiacbird (Dec 29, 2006)

you got a nice baseline car for your install....so no excuses!!!!


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## cpio311 (Aug 22, 2007)

good **** man how you liking that vq3.5?


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

02 and 03 are the 3.5s, 00-01 were still 3.0 

still sexier than ever though haha


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

Is it a good or bad idea to cover the hole a little bigger than a license plate with ensolite?


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

update in first post, sound deadening rear deck complete


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## ssmith100 (Jun 28, 2007)

The plastic clips come out of the (metal) rear decklid and slide into the package tray. When you go to put the package tray back in the clips will snap into place like they are now. Hope that makes since. The maximas are fun to work on. I had one. Some install pics of mine.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/366795



Shane


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

but theres no access to the other side of them, and I don't think I can snap them out from the top unless you know of a technique, i'd snap those ****ers off in a split second and then it would permanently be loose


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## ssmith100 (Jun 28, 2007)

They'll unsnap..........even if they don't you can buy replacements at any parts store. I had my decklid out a 100 times with snapping those clips in and out.

Shane


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

so just a screw driver under them and they'll pop out huh? hmm..


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## niceguy (Mar 12, 2006)

Was that deck cutout for a factory Bose sub or something? Did you consider doing an IB setup?

BTW, the DE-Ks have some nice topend power esp w/headers,etc...


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

No, considering that my car is a GXE and the bose system only comes in the GLE (and maybe SE too). I'm not sure what that big hole was for, but its covered in ensolite so it should be fine.

Explain IB to me 

not sure what DE-Ks are either lol


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

Alright guys, heres todays work, sound deadened the trunk lid pretty well, and then fitted ensolite to match up as well as I could, came out alright I think, hope it sounds even better!


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

box complete as of today


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

Driver's side door deadened + ensolite as of today.


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

Passenger door deadened as of yesterday, the tip of the passenger window switch "plug" fell to pieces and I had to go buy a new one from the dealer for 35$...but at least it works fine now..
Pics:


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## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

Oh you DID NOT spend $35 on a switch. 

Those things are ALL OVER EBAY for alot less than that. I picked one up for my buddies 2002 last summer for $14 SHIPPED.


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

I wanted the damn thing fixed man, some guy offered me one for 10$ + shipping....I don't want to wait for my window to go down...I have friends that smoke and such...


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## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

daesonn said:


> No, considering that my car is a GXE and the bose system only comes in the GLE (and maybe SE too). I'm not sure what that big hole was for, but its covered in ensolite so it should be fine.
> 
> Explain IB to me
> 
> not sure what DE-Ks are either lol


Don't think Ensolite is what you want to use to block that hole in the rear deck.

If you REALLY want to plug it up use some sheet metal and a few screws with some deadener over it. I'd personally leave it open to let the bass flow into the cabin. Yep...thats what I'd do....RIP IT OFF....

And plug those holes up in the doors with sheet metal before you get any further.


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

I don't need bass to flow through, its a 15 inch with 1200 watts behind it...I want to keep the cabin as airtight as possible, but I dont want anything to permanent and no big screwing jobs, im sure ensolite will do fine...and if not, ill experiment.


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

BMW charges $50 a pop for their switches. $35 isnt too bad.

(bmw makes some damn good switches, by the way )


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## Dr.Telepathy SQ (Nov 17, 2007)

daesonn said:


> I don't need bass to flow through, its a 15 inch with 1200 watts behind it...I want to keep the cabin as airtight as possible, but I dont want anything to permanent and no big screwing jobs, im sure ensolite will do fine...and if not, ill experiment.


??????????


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

Rick with raamaudio told me ensolite will do the job + 
more for any place I wanted to use foam or anything, but ensolite wont mold, fall apart, etc. Ever notice people putting foam behind the speakers in their doors? Same with the foam over the holes in their rear deck...Ensolite = my foam that will last much longer  and Rick, who mentioned to me how high up in the audio world he is, said ensolite would be perfect for all of the things i've used it for.


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## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

daesonn said:


> I wanted the damn thing fixed man, some guy offered me one for 10$ + shipping....I don't want to wait for my window to go down...I have friends that smoke and such...


So tell them NO SMOKING in the car. I won't allow it in my car. I made an exception once and I have cigarette burn in my headliner as payment.


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## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

daesonn said:


> I don't need bass to flow through, its a 15 inch with 1200 watts behind it...I want to keep the cabin as airtight as possible, but I dont want anything to permanent and no big screwing jobs, im sure ensolite will do fine...and if not, ill experiment.


Ensolite won't seal a hole. 

You could use silicone to attach a piece of metal or even 1/2" plywood. That would do the trick.


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## mmiller (Mar 7, 2008)

Looking good for a first install!!

Or any for that matter!


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

again its not to seal it, but its to keep the trunk closer to air tight, when not as much air is moving, and you make sort of a second sealed enclosure in the trunk it sounds better, but I don't want to block out the bass either, im sure my ensolite will work fine


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## indianbraker (Mar 7, 2008)

nice to see another kid working on his car...i just started my 97 altima build...so far im workin on deadening next is fiberglass kickpanels.


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

ah really? How old are you?

Kickpanels are going to be tough.. I wanted to build my own, and I think I might be able to....but the imaging would be the hardest part, and i'm not even experienced at all with sound direction or any of that...I payed almost 400$ for some guy at a local shop to make me some kicks for my last car (94 maxima). The interior was brown so the carpet on my old kicks are brown, and they dont snap into place in the new car really at all, but they sound amazing. Today's work is going to be to try to cut off any excess pieces and make them fit in any way possible in the new car...Then i'll recarpet them this week and hopefully be fully installed by next weekend!


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## indianbraker (Mar 7, 2008)

daesonn said:


> ah really? How old are you?
> 
> Kickpanels are going to be tough.. I wanted to build my own, and I think I might be able to....but the imaging would be the hardest part, and i'm not even experienced at all with sound direction or any of that...I payed almost 400$ for some guy at a local shop to make me some kicks for my last car (94 maxima). The interior was brown so the carpet on my old kicks are brown, and they dont snap into place in the new car really at all, but they sound amazing. Today's work is going to be to try to cut off any excess pieces and make them fit in any way possible in the new car...Then i'll recarpet them this week and hopefully be fully installed by next weekend!


im 18...fiy the whole imaging thing is a bit overrated...i messed up a little on my first set but keep in mind it was bout a 100 degrees in the florida summer and i just wanted to finish them....have a friend hold the rings until they aim to the center of the car (dome light or w/e) and then while he holds it take some measurements of the distance between the ring and mold and make your dowels...i used some leftover mdf...liquid nails that **** and then one more time put the mold with rings attatched in the car to see if they align correctly...thats bout it if you need a full tutorial let me know...keep up the good work im gonna get some of my deadening finished today.


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

Alright guys, this idea will probably be the highlight of my install, even though it's still my first. As some of you know, I was on a budget for this install as I don't have a job, almost all of my equipment came from my old car that exploded. I removed the kick panels from my old vehicle which was the same make and model, just 7 years older than my new car. The kick panels were a close fit, but some things just wernet working, either interior in the car was going to have to be cut, or the old kicks were. So today's work was removing the old carpet as best as possible, because when I removed it, there were a good amount of "pubes" left I had to spend a couple hours sanding down and such. I also cut the panels down so they could be more moveable and less shaped to my old car. The reason for the mobility I need is because I have decided to mount these kicks into my car by bending 2 small bars per side, and screwing them in. 

Im going to be using fairly thick steel, not very bendable with your hands per say, but with a vice and a hammer, you can do almost anything with. I've made the back of the kick panels as flat as possible, so I will mount the kicks to the metal bars, and the metal bars to the sheet metal behind my current stock kicks. I thought about this for awhile and realized this would virtually allow me to image my kick panels by bending the bars in any way possible, "give them a kick" as my brother said, if I felt they werent aiming in the right direction lol. We were also going to put some memory foam behind the bars and the kicks to make it amore solid setup.

Hopefully this idea will work, anyone have any experience with it, or is it a somewhat bright idea? Here's some pictures of the kick panels after todays work, gonna test fit them, seal them up, and get them carpeted probably tomorrow.


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## indianbraker (Mar 7, 2008)

iv never heard of anyone doing this but if it works and doesnt look to ghetto go for it lol. maybe im not gettin the picture but in my head this doesnt seem like it will look that good but i wouldnt know since i havent seen them in the car...hint hint...get a pic of them once they are modified in the car i wanna see how these turn out.


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

I thought the same thing, but in my current car, the kick panels are kind of two pieces, meaning more towards the actual seats in the car, theres a trim piece that im leaving alone, so the kicks will hang slightly in front of this, and then of course, you can't really see around the back of the kicks, so it should look clean.


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## Megalomaniac (Feb 12, 2007)

to the op i think you should spend more time on you deadening, it doesnt look like you used a roller or a bunt object to get it dully adhered.


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## cnguyen (Feb 1, 2008)

old school elemental design nice touch.


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

Again, I was told I didnt need anything other than my hands by Rick from raamaudio, so thats what I did, I think it will do fine honestly...if not, ill have to put some more in...


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

cnguyen said:


> old school elemental design nice touch.


Thanks, gonna bump


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

Today I filed down the kicks and cleaned them up, including filling all the gaps and weak spots, holes, etc. with silicone. Tomorrow i'm going to find the carpet closest to my car's interior color, and carpet them.

edit:accident repost, don't know how to delete


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

Today I cleaned up the kicks, filed them down to match close as possible, clean them up, and fill the gaps and small holes with silicone


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

Preparing the floor for the heavy ass box sub and amps lol, the floor boards needed support towards the trunk lid, so I had to install that 2x4.
Turned out even, and solid, made good cuts all around thank god.


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

bump, cmon guys, feedback on the first install? doing anything wrong? right?


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## Sideshow (Mar 6, 2007)

daesonn said:


> bump, cmon guys, feedback on the first install? doing anything wrong? right?


I've got some. I must have missed something because the whole "plugging the hole in the rear deck with ensolite because I want the trunk sealed" is messing with me on a few levels. First of all, where is the subwoofer going? If it's going in the trunk and just sitting there firing into the space in the trunk, then the last thing you want to do is seal up holes in the trunk, especially with something like Ensolite. You might as well seal it up with an unhooked speaker and listen to all the noise it makes from the pressure from the sub. But mainly because you will want the air to flow into the cab from the trunk as much as possible so the sound isn't obstructed. So often people rely on letting the sound flow through the back seats, and that just seems not enough to me. You should do everything you can to make more holes for that sound to get from the trunk to the car, like taking out the rear speakers, etc. The more you seal it up, the more the bass you hear will be from sheet metal vibrations, not your subwoofer. The more you open it up, the more unobstructed sound will reach your ears and the less pressure there will be in the trunk to vibrate all the sheet metal back there. Plus, if you DO seal it, use wood or metal or something. He was nuts to tell you thin foam would be enough.

I also disagree with him telling you that your hands would be enough to apply sound deadener with. Try this: Take a big screwdriver and rub the butt of the handle on the deadener and see how much tighter it sticks. You want that. Adding more later and not pressing it on will only add more weight to help peel off the improperly applied first layer. Plus, the tighter it sticks, the more effective it is.

Also, aiming is only overrated if you don't care too much about soundstage. If you do, then it is a must, and not done properely often enough, in my opinion. Those pods will sound fine, but not being able to aim them will mostly defeat the purpose of having them, and will only be marginally better than having the components low in your doors. But I also totally can relate to the budget concerns, so by all means, do what you can.

Oh, and if you don't plug the holes in your doors with more than ensolite, you might as well not plug them at all. At least put a couple layers of deadener over them, if you can. At least that would vibrate like ensolite.


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

Well, for one, I have a 15" subwoofer with 1200 watts pushing it alone, thats part of the reason I want to break down some of the sound waves (using ensolite, because thats what it does) directly above it, the sub is going to be firing right at that ensolite patch, and if it wasn't there, i'm afraid it would rattle my rear deck around quite a bit, i think it should be fine for now, and it it rattles, then I'll have to do something else, for right now, i think its the least of my concern.

I may give my deadener a rub down to make it stick better when I do my install this weekend.

The whole point of the new mounting idea is to make the kicks moveable, so i'm not really sure why your saying i'm making them immovable. I'm going to bend metal bars to the angles I need and then mount my kicks, this lets me test fit, then bend more if I need to, allowing me to aim them.

Heres how the kicks came out after today's carpeting:
















Used a screw to tighten all the leftover loose carpet to the back of the panel, giving the adhesive extra support:


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

daesonn said:


> Well, for one, I have a 15" subwoofer with 1200 watts pushing it alone, thats part of the reason I want to break down some of the sound waves (using ensolite, because thats what it does) directly above it, the sub is going to be firing right at that ensolite patch, and if it wasn't there, i'm afraid it would rattle my rear deck around quite a bit, i think it should be fine for now, and it it rattles, then I'll have to do something else, for right now, i think its the least of my concern.


The ONLY thing ensolite will do is keep some high frequencies in check, it's not going to do ANYTHING for the frequencies a sub will be playing. 



>


Umm....you might want to trim all the extra carpet off. It's non backed carpet which means it stretches, which means a single screw isn't going to make any difference at all in regards to the glue holding better.


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

haters...


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

so people offering you advice, which you asked for by the way, makes us haters?


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## Sideshow (Mar 6, 2007)

You know, just having "1500 watts" does not necessarily mean your sub is going to be going crazy back there. You probably won't use more than a couple hundred at any given point, anyways. I believe Ensolite is a closed-cell foam. So it will not slow down the air traveling through it, it will block it, and vibrate and flex like crazy. If you want to restrict the amount of bass getting to your ears, turn down the bass a little. And while your at it, open up that hole so the bass that DOES get to your ears sounds better.


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

Is it recommended I fill my spare tire well with anything?

I probably won't put my spare tire back in since its half covered in rust, and I don't travel, I live in the city and have AAA.


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## armed (Mar 13, 2008)

try using a hair dryer or heat gun when you do some more deadening..
not too hot tho... while pressing on it with whatever, try and heat it up a little and it'll be easier, try it....


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## Sideshow (Mar 6, 2007)

So are you gonna leave that Ensolite on there, even though it will NOT do what you thought it would?

I hope you were joking with the "haters" thing. Otherwise that was stupid. Asking for advice then taking it personally....


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

Yea I was joking, but it does seem odd to me how everyone seems to have to tell me that the ensolite i glued to my rear deck will not do anything, even though i'm not going to remove it lol


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Why would it seem odd that we're ALL telling you you're using it incorrectly? The fact that you don't want to believe it is what WE find odd.


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

The owner of a very successful and reputable sound deadening company (also a previous competitor for world championship of sound quality) told me it would help, and I don't think it would do any harm in leaving it there, even though you guys say it wont do anything.


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## Sideshow (Mar 6, 2007)

Did he see pictures? Did you thoroughly explain what you were doing and what you hoped it would do? He must not have understood what you were asking, because it's simple logic: Sound is made by waves in the AIR. If the air cannot reach your ears from a sealed trunk, or has to struggle to get to you, and is changed in the process.......

That would be a BAD THING. 

Even worse would be to add a thin sealed membrane to one of the passages that the air would normally take. That makes zero sense.

You don't have to even be an audio person to understand this.

Would you put a home theater subwoofer in the baby's room across the house and close the door because it was too loud?? I, and this is just me personally, would prefer to just turn it down instead.

He misunderstood your question. Plain and simple.


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

K now your ignoring the OTHER side of the situation, you know... the fact that my rear deck is probably going to rattle like hell if the sub is facing this license plate size hole from 3 or 4 inches away, with nothing in between....leave it alone please...my trunk isn't sealed at all, thats the only hole ive attempted to cover, and i'd appreciate if you would stop giving me lectures about how bad this piece of ****ing foam over a hole is...jesus christ.


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## pikers (Oct 21, 2007)

daesonn said:


> K now your ignoring the OTHER side of the situation, you know... the fact that my rear deck is probably going to rattle like hell if the sub is facing this license plate size hole from 3 or 4 inches away, with nothing in between....leave it alone please...my trunk isn't sealed at all, thats the only hole ive attempted to cover, and i'd appreciate if you would stop giving me lectures about how bad this piece of ****ing foam over a hole is...jesus christ.


People like you deserve what you get when you won't listen, due to this misplaced youthful arrogance.

Good luck.


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## FrankstonCarAudio (Feb 2, 2008)

Settle, Petal..........

(That's an Aussie expression for calm down.. ) 

All these guys are only trying to help you with something that will affect your SQ.. and isn't that what you are trying to achieve?

I have been watching your build from the start, and I think Rick has probably thought you were sealing that hole properly, and that is why he said the ensolite would be fine.. just like sealing holes in the door panels, then sound deadener, then ensolite... not just ensolite over an open hole.

Keep up the good work tho', it will pay off in the end....  
(the proof is in the hearing!)


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## Sideshow (Mar 6, 2007)

Holy crap. Maybe you should grow up a bit more before you try asking for any input. All anybody was trying to do was help. Not sure why you asked for input when all you have done so far is take it personally and tell people you don't want to change anything for any reason, so what's the point? Why even start this thread?


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

I think you need to get out of here and stop antagonizing me, thanks.


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

FrankstonCarAudio said:


> Settle, Petal..........
> 
> (That's an Aussie expression for calm down.. )
> 
> ...


So you really think that single ensolite patch is going to take from my sound quality rather than just do nothing for it?


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## Robdoggz (Sep 16, 2007)

Maybe this kid just doesn't understand what this forum is about. You know there are lesser forums around that you might fit into better sorry but it is the truth. Drop the attitude and maybe you might understand what people here pursue.


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

pikers said:


> People like you deserve what you get when you won't listen, due to this misplaced youthful arrogance.
> 
> Good luck.


And people like you never question anything, you listen too much without thinking for yourself, and maybe thats why you are where you are.


edit: now i'm a "kid" who doesn't understand anything, who belongs in a "lesser" forum as if yours is what? higher? So far I haven't seen anyone pursue anything but the damn piece of foam over 1 hole in my trunk. get off my thread if you don't like me, its called Rob's 01 Maxima. I'm Rob.


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## FrankstonCarAudio (Feb 2, 2008)

daesonn said:


> So you really think that single ensolite patch is going to take from my sound quality rather than just do nothing for it?


Rob, 

Yeah, I do.
You said the sub will be around 4" below the ensolite?
I feel it is going to "flap" like crazy! That will be audible in the cabin... That will drive you nuts... That will affect your SQ.
Different to, but like port "chuffing" is not a good thing... 
If it was me, I would leave it fully open..
Let all that bass flow free !!!!!!
Mark


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## rimshot (May 17, 2005)

most people would KILL to have that hole in the rear deck in most trunk installs. I think that is the reason for some of the other members frustration. The key to a sub-in-trunk install is airflow into the cabin and you are already expecting rattles from the sub so why would you introduce anything into the main passageway for sound to get into the cabin? Do you want to hear your sub at all?  

You already mentioned that it probably wont serve any good which is true and in this case it will only negate performance, just rip it out.


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## Sideshow (Mar 6, 2007)

daesonn said:


> And people like you never question anything, you listen too much without thinking for yourself, and maybe thats why you are where you are.
> 
> 
> edit: now i'm a "kid" who doesn't understand anything, who belongs in a "lesser" forum as if yours is what? higher? So far I haven't seen anyone pursue anything but the damn piece of foam over 1 hole in my trunk. get off my thread if you don't like me, its called Rob's 01 Maxima. I'm Rob.


Woo hoo!! What a fun guy!!!


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

rimshot said:


> most people would KILL to have that hole in the rear deck in most trunk installs. I think that is the reason for some of the other members frustration. The key to a sub-in-trunk install is airflow into the cabin and you are already expecting rattles from the sub so why would you introduce anything into the main passageway for sound to get into the cabin? Do you want to hear your sub at all?
> 
> You already mentioned that it probably wont serve any good which is true and in this case it will only negate performance, just rip it out.


K well I guess its coming out then, I just didn't want to have to get back underneath the rear deck, pain in the ass to take the whole backend of my car apart... Is it recommended rather that I maybe add slightly more deadener, make sure its all compressed nicely, then cut out a piece of ensolite to cover the whole rear deck(leaving all holes open)? I'm worried that the plastic interior piece that lays on the rear deck is going to rattle like hell if I don't do something to it...maybe i'll just have to get this thing installed so I can find out.


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## rimshot (May 17, 2005)

The best thing you could do to the rear deck in your situation is add mass (deadener) to lower vibrations. I dont think it will rattle as bad as you think but do keep an eye out for things like wires and errant pieces of plastic, those are the things that can produce the horrible rattles as well. If that 15 makes your entire panel flex and rattle then that would be very out of the ordinary!

Just make that rear deck as stiff as you can and embrace the holes in it because thats the only way youre going to get bass! Good luck with the rest of the install


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## rimshot (May 17, 2005)

something like this is all you can do in most cases:
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/att...d-quality-competition-car-rear-deck-after.jpg


and this although Ideal, is probably overkill for most people:
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q200/FloridaSPL/Sound deadening/DSCN4799.jpg

You can either put deadener on the back of the larger plastic pieces (I use this method most of the time) or just wait and see what rattles, locate it and place ensolite under it. Both methods work well. Please keep us posted on how it turns out


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## FrankstonCarAudio (Feb 2, 2008)

rimshot said:


> The best thing you could do to the rear deck in your situation is add mass (deadener) to lower vibrations. I dont think it will rattle as bad as you think but do keep an eye out for things like wires and errant pieces of plastic, those are the things that can produce the horrible rattles as well. If that 15 makes your entire panel flex and rattle then that would be very out of the ordinary!
> 
> Just make that rear deck as stiff as you can and embrace the holes in it because thats the only way youre going to get bass! Good luck with the rest of the install


Rimshot is right..
Deaden, Deaden and more deadening.
The more mass to the panel, the less likely it is to rattle or resonate.
The plastic rear shelf piece can also have deadening applied and "sponge" type blocks inserted bertween it and the metal (deadened) shelf.
In fact there was probably those type of blocks already there when you pulled it out?
Just replace them with something similar, and you should be all ok!  
(and leave the holes open  )


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

I have a question, before I bolt down those 2 wings in my trunk, is it a bad idea to leave the spare tire well naked and empty? I'm afraid thats exposing more sheet metal when that could easily be fixed by putting something in there to expose less or something, any input on that would be appreciated before I bolt them down tomorrow.

Came home from Fry's today with 2 pair of monster cable RCA's for my 4 channel amp, and a Kicker amp kit for my sub amp....the RCA's are gold tipped and are twisted and shielded I believe...Anyone have any experience with the Kicker amp kits and their RCA's?

Also, i'll be mounting my sub tomorrow, is it recommended I seal it in somehow other than just screwing it in...? I don't want it permanent I don't think, so i'm not sure how i'd do it or if its even necessary. Going to try and find some special washers as well so I can get the sub screwed in tight, the rubber ring around it is kind of thrashed.


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## Hispls (Mar 12, 2008)

daesonn said:


> I have a question, before I bolt down those 2 wings in my trunk, is it a bad idea to leave the spare tire well naked and empty? I'm afraid thats exposing more sheet metal when that could easily be fixed by putting something in there to expose less or something, any input on that would be appreciated before I bolt them down tomorrow.
> 
> Came home from Fry's today with 2 pair of monster cable RCA's for my 4 channel amp, and a Kicker amp kit for my sub amp....the RCA's are gold tipped and are twisted and shielded I believe...Anyone have any experience with the Kicker amp kits and their RCA's?
> 
> Also, i'll be mounting my sub tomorrow, is it recommended I seal it in somehow other than just screwing it in...? I don't want it permanent I don't think, so i'm not sure how i'd do it or if its even necessary. Going to try and find some special washers as well so I can get the sub screwed in tight, the rubber ring around it is kind of thrashed.


You do have a piece of wood over the spare hole right?

Dunno about the Kicker kits, but I suspect they're the same as a dozen other brands...

Use some silicone caulking around the sub, it's pretty easy to scrape off if you need to remove things (you'll want to cut back the carpet of the box obviously)


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## FrankstonCarAudio (Feb 2, 2008)

Hey Rob,

If you have any deadener left over put that on the inside of the spare wheel well, before you bolt down the "lid".
Like your rear shelf, adding mass to any metal in the car reduces the chance of resonance... (it might even help to cut down road noise getting into the car!)
The more you can deaden, the better! 
Even putting the spare back in there would make a difference....

Mark


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## Sideshow (Mar 6, 2007)

daesonn said:


> I have a question, before I bolt down those 2 wings in my trunk, is it a bad idea to leave the spare tire well naked and empty? I'm afraid thats exposing more sheet metal when that could easily be fixed by putting something in there to expose less or something, any input on that would be appreciated before I bolt them down tomorrow.
> 
> Came home from Fry's today with 2 pair of monster cable RCA's for my 4 channel amp, and a Kicker amp kit for my sub amp....the RCA's are gold tipped and are twisted and shielded I believe...Anyone have any experience with the Kicker amp kits and their RCA's?
> 
> Also, i'll be mounting my sub tomorrow, is it recommended I seal it in somehow other than just screwing it in...? I don't want it permanent I don't think, so i'm not sure how i'd do it or if its even necessary. Going to try and find some special washers as well so I can get the sub screwed in tight, the rubber ring around it is kind of thrashed.


The metal of the spare tire well is curved and solid. It's wide flat pieces of metal and metal with lots of other metal or plastic really close to it or touching it that you need to worry about. But it would probably look better to cover it like you are anyways.

You might find more differing opinions about the RCAs. I am of the opinion (I have proved to myself over and over that it is a fact) that as long as you have twisted pair RCAs, they will sound no better and no worse than any other RCAs out there, regardless of price. I have yet to find someone who can prove to me that they hear a difference. If they are really worth what people pay for them, the difference should be at least detectable. Now it is possible that noise could be introduced by a poorly made RCA, but as long as you are using twisted pair, and getting sound through it, you should be fine.

Get some foam weather stripping at any store for $1.99 and stick it around the underside of the speaker where the frame meets the wood. That should give you all the seal you need.


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

Sideshow said:


> Get some foam weather stripping at any store for $1.99 and stick it around the underside of the speaker where the frame meets the wood. That should give you all the seal you need.


Should I cut the carpet away from the edge of the speaker hole then? Enough so that the speaker is sitting on wood, not carpet?


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## Hispls (Mar 12, 2008)

daesonn said:


> Should I cut the carpet away from the edge of the speaker hole then? Enough so that the speaker is sitting on wood, not carpet?


Like a quarter inch to accomodate weatherstripping or whatever sealant you prefer.

Ditto on the comment about RCA.


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## Sideshow (Mar 6, 2007)

Yeah, don't cut off so much that you can see the edge of the carpet showing once the woofer is installed. And if there is going to be carpet AND foam stripping under the woofer, make sure you use thick enough weather stripping that there is plenty of pressure on it once the woofer is fully seated in the box. Sometimes thicker carpets can keep thinner foam from being pressed hard enough by the woofer and it could compromise the seal.


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## ssmith100 (Jun 28, 2007)

Just my 2 cents. I've never had an enclosure not seal once the sub was installed whether I used carpet or vinyl at the opening. 

Shane


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## FrankstonCarAudio (Feb 2, 2008)

ssmith100 said:


> Just my 2 cents. I've never had an enclosure not seal once the sub was installed whether I used carpet or vinyl at the opening.
> 
> Shane


Lucky Boy!  

I always apply some sort of seal to the bare surface, after I have trimmed a small amount of whatever is covering the enclosure.
The one time a long time ago that I didnt trim, I had a leak!  

Mark


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

whats the best way to trim around the edge of the speaker hole? i'm afraid if I put the sub in while I do it, you'll be able to see the wood in the space...


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

Well the install didn't go as planned today... Turns out, last time when I pulled my eclipse cd3000 out of my old burnt up car before they towed it away. I just disconnected and pulled out all the cables and took the head unit...Apparently, the main connection happened to come out with all the other wires, and I'm a noob and didn't even do my previous install, so I had no idea...car is long gone now. Any chance anyone knows where to pick one up?

Second problem I ran into was the kicks. Kicks aren't going to be as easy to mount with metal bars as originally planned. My dad says we wont be able to mount as easy as I thought, so he wanted to sleep on it...I've asked several peoples opinion...The back of the kick panel is shown on the previous page, they're basically just flat, plastic, totally drillable and mountable....The problem is, behind the kick panel, it looks like this:








(not my car, didn't have my digi with me today, but same thing)

On the left is a plastic trim piece, which can't be removed or cut down...
Any ideas on how to mount these would be very helpful, trying to install this tomorrow, my car is a mobile garage without door panels or center console right now...


Also, whats the easiest way to get the speaker wire from the door, inside the car? I'm hoping 16gauge is fine for my mb quart midbass, they're only 60w rms...


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

So I have been gone for a while but i've definitely made progress.

I used foam weather stripping around the sub enclosure hole, ensuring its airtight, and coiled the sub wires even tho it may not matter too much 

















The only picture I have of my doors finished is this, everything fit nicely and they look completely stock from inside the car:










The kick panels were pretty tough, but they came out solid. We decided to use sheet metal and bend them into brackets. We pulled out the two factory sheet metal screws holding in the circuit boards behind the kick panels and used them to mount the brackets:
















We then drilled holes in the kick panel, sheet metal, and small metal plates to even out the force on the kick:
















We cut wedge stiraphone insulation to support the brackets, the finished product was solid, and I was very happy with it. Especially for all the doubts people had about my idea.


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

As you can notice from the last few pictures, I finally picked up a dash kit that looked decent in my car, wasn't easy to find... looks clean


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## daesonn (Jan 15, 2008)

Today as i was gettin ready to hear my system i noticed that the 4 channel amp goes into protect mode whenever we plug in the RCA's....this may be due to the monster RCA's ultra rediculous grip. After you put those monster rca's in they're nearly impossible to take out, and when we tried pulling them off the amps, they took out the gold RCA's inputs in the amp. Looks like I may be buying a new amp, possible the Planet Audio


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