# How the hell do you crimp 4 gauge as a DIYer?



## TheMidnightNarwhal (Oct 6, 2017)

I managed to find out how to cut it, with bolt cutters but how do you crimp? I practised on 2 extra spade terminals that I won't use and both ways did not went good using wire cutters.


----------



## neuspeedescort (Feb 23, 2010)

hydraulic crimper. you can find them on ebay for around 35 bucks. as for cutting the wire. most tool companies make large gauge cutters. hit up harbor freight. i got my pittsburgh for cheap. but don't remember the amount.


----------



## JimmyDee (Mar 8, 2014)

You either rent a hyrdraulic crimper... or you use a hammer and a pin punch.
Kinda ghetto, but it works.


----------



## TheMidnightNarwhal (Oct 6, 2017)

I managed to use some vice grips, works well from the front of the terminal.


----------



## Mless5 (Aug 21, 2006)

TheMidnightNarwhal said:


> I managed to find out how to cut it, with bolt cutters


Try Dremel next time if you have one.
I use locking pliers for crimping.


----------



## disconnected (May 10, 2017)

Wire ferrules and solder.


----------



## TheMidnightNarwhal (Oct 6, 2017)

Mless5 said:


> Try Dremel next time if you have one.
> I use locking pliers for crimping.


How do you use the locking pliers? Do you crimp one side at a time or from the front?


----------



## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

i use hydraulic crimpers, but a good one can be pricey. when it doubt, Mallet it out. (yes, smash it with a mallet)


----------



## RRizz (Sep 4, 2012)

Ive done them with a hammer, a vise, channel locks, vise grips.....ect, ect....


----------



## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

I use a harbor freight hydraulic crimper for the 4 gauge. Works fine. I'll have to look up which pair of dies for this 4 ga connectors after i get home. Also useful for the other terminals too.


----------



## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

We use a hammer on the cement floor of our basement here in southern vermont. Then some heat shrink to cover it.


----------



## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

I use a small chisel & hammer to drive the seam of the terminal into the strands then vise-grips or bench vise to squeeze it all together from the sides.


----------



## Mless5 (Aug 21, 2006)

TheMidnightNarwhal said:


> How do you use the locking pliers? Do you crimp one side at a time or from the front?


I crimp from the side, first half and than the other half - both from the side.


----------



## RockamyZ (Apr 29, 2017)

Cable Hammer Crimper Tool Battery Welding Wire Terminal Lug Connector 8-4/0 AWG | eBay

Smack it with a hammer and done deal.


----------



## TheMidnightNarwhal (Oct 6, 2017)

RockamyZ said:


> Cable Hammer Crimper Tool Battery Welding Wire Terminal Lug Connector 8-4/0 AWG | eBay
> 
> Smack it with a hammer and done deal.


I can't seem to get one for less than 40$ here in Canada. There are some at 20$ but from china, it'l take 2 months.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Use a vise. Put a small nut against the terminal, place in the vise, then tighten. I usually tape the nut as it's not that easy to hold it while tightening and not pinch your little digits!


----------



## TheMidnightNarwhal (Oct 6, 2017)

Theslaking said:


> Use a vise. Put a small nut against the terminal, place in the vise, then tighten. I usually tape the nut as it's not that easy to hold it while tightening and not pinch your little digits!


No vise yet, just got my toolbox/workbench combo. I need to get one soon..


----------



## mires (Mar 5, 2011)

I'm really surprised to hear all of you condoning these methods.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

mires said:


> I'm really surprised to hear all of you condoning these methods.


Why none of them seem to be dangerous?


----------



## jaandrade79 (May 17, 2017)

I use my Klein lineman pliers. The yellow handle ones have a nice crimper built in. Works great


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Locomotive Tech (May 23, 2016)

mires said:


> I'm really surprised to hear all of you condoning these methods.


Me Too! I wonder how many folks have over crimped or under crimped. If your in a pinch, take it to a battery shop, RV, powersport shop. I guess I am spoiled having access to a wide range of crimpers. 

I bet a good business venture would be to design quality crimpers a a discounted price. I always thought that opening a small tool rental venture would be a good idea.


----------



## Sine Swept (Sep 3, 2010)

I have a nice set of large ratcheting crimpers I picked up at Princess Auto.

I would say that is also depends on the terminals you are using. For the open terminals with an open seam that comes in most power wire kits I have no issue using a pair of Channellock 909's on 4 gauge. In a shop situation those 909's are treated like a linesman would use linesmans pliers for as many things as possible. They can be used to strip wire if you have proper technique.


----------



## TheMidnightNarwhal (Oct 6, 2017)

Sine Swept said:


> For the open terminals with an open seam that comes in most power wire kits I have no issue using a pair of Channellock 909's on 4 gauge.


Yeah this is what I got. I tried with vice grips with the ones that were spade I didn't need and it worked pretty well. I think it should get the job done.


----------



## TheMidnightNarwhal (Oct 6, 2017)

Question though, how exactly should the crimp look? Is it supposed to be all the part that touches the wire or only a small amount?


----------



## Kriszilla (Jul 1, 2013)

Theslaking said:


> Use a vise. Put a small nut against the terminal, place in the vise, then tighten. I usually tape the nut as it's not that easy to hold it while tightening and not pinch your little digits!


This is the exact method I use. I've had my 6 year old swing from the wire as a joke test and it didn't budge.


----------



## jackal28 (Sep 23, 2017)

This is what I use for 1/0 gauge: https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Hammer...=1507530592&sr=1-6&keywords=lug+crimping+tool
It would work for a 4 gauge too and its cheap. Before that i used a very sturdy phillips head screw driver and a hammer.
I think the tool is the best bet as it gives you an amazingly tight crimp. Some home depots carry them from Lincoln Electric, but good luck finding one there.


----------



## jackal28 (Sep 23, 2017)

I use this type of hammer crimper on my 1/0 gauge and for the price and amazing hold: https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Hammer...=1507530592&sr=1-6&keywords=lug+crimping+tool

Home Depot or Lowes also carries one from Lincoln Electric, but its tough finding one in the store and they cost more. 

Before that when I needed to crimp a 1/0 Gauge immediately, I got a pretty good crimp out of a stirdy wide phillips head screw driver and a hammer. Good Luck.


----------



## robtr8 (Dec 6, 2011)

jackal28 said:


> I use this type of hammer crimper on my 1/0 gauge and for the price and amazing hold: https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Hammer...=1507530592&sr=1-6&keywords=lug+crimping+tool
> 
> Home Depot or Lowes also carries one from Lincoln Electric, but its tough finding one in the store and they cost more.
> 
> Before that when I needed to crimp a 1/0 Gauge immediately, I got a pretty good crimp out of a stirdy wide phillips head screw driver and a hammer. Good Luck.


That's similar to the lug crimper I have.

What makes a huge difference is the lugs you use. The crappy ones won't hold a crimp. I use terminals/lugs/electrical connectors from Ancor that I buy at my local West Marine. Heavy duty and tinned.
Ancor Marine Products | Ancor


----------



## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

TheMidnightNarwhal said:


> Question though, how exactly should the crimp look? Is it supposed to be all the part that touches the wire or only a small amount?


Here mine:


----------



## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

Idk of its been said but dont crimp. I get the proper sized lugs in the sealed end kind. Cut a few small pieces of solder and drop it in. About 1/4 filled. Heat up the lug so the solder turns to liquid and then dip and press your wire into it. The solder instantly creates a mold around the wire and seals the lug to the wire perfectly. 

Ive never had issues

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk


----------



## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Jscoyne2 said:


> Idk of its been said but dont crimp. I get the proper sized lugs in the sealed end kind. Cut a few small pieces of solder and drop it in. About 1/4 filled. Heat up the lug so the solder turns to liquid and then dip and press your wire into it. The solder instantly creates a mold around the wire and seals the lug to the wire perfectly.
> 
> Ive never had issues


Almost all airplanes from a Piper to a fighter, and all racecars, use crimps over solder. Basically the end of the solder joint flexes where the stiff solder ends... and eventually breaks the wire at that end... (insert swear word here)

Granted a car is not a race car, nor is it a fighter jet, but for my money and laziness, and yearning for mitigating dramas in the dead of a winter n'oight...
... I would go to a shop and pay them to crimp the ends and put on a strain-relief.

Why do a DIY on an important joint?
Or get a proper crimper and have your friends leave rental-beers when they use it.


----------



## FordEscape (Nov 23, 2014)

Holmz said:


> Almost all airplanes from a Piper to a fighter, and all racecars, use crimps over solder.


Not to mention every harness pin on every production car, truck and motorcycle with literally billions of miles logged (solder*less* crimp). That includes the non-lead battery post cable terminals and ground terminals most common these days.

Most local welding suppliers that sell the cable and fittings will crimp 'em proper, gratis or for a very nominal charge.


----------



## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

FordEscape said:


> Not to mention every harness pin on every production car, truck and motorcycle with literally billions of miles logged (solder*less* crimp). That includes the non-lead battery post cable terminals and ground terminals most common these days.
> 
> Most local welding suppliers that sell the cable and fittings will crimp 'em proper, gratis or for a very nominal charge.


I figured we had some common ground 

(No manufacture wants a vehicle failing early.)


----------



## Locomotive Tech (May 23, 2016)

From my experience, I have seen the pro's and con's of both crimped and soldered terminals. Crimped terminals have more advantages than soldered, primarily, repeatability of reliablity. With the proper crimp handles for the terminal and wire, a novice can perform highly reliable terminations. 

Soldering takes considerable practice to know exactly what you are doing. Cold solder joints have caused significant loss of life and damge to equipment. Over time, a solder joint, under vibration can can develope stress fractures in the solder. As the fractures progress, small amounts of solder can "flake" away and deteriorate the joints integrity. 

For more information on crimp/compression techniques you can go on any number of websites such as Thomas & Betts, Amphenal, Veam/Litton, Wago etc. You will see that crimps are excellent but also need to be completed correctly. I attempted to use the hammer and pin vise technique, after looking at it when I was done, I cut the terminal off, it just looked terrible and I knew it would not last.


----------



## dawaro (Jul 22, 2015)

Here you go, $30 and free shipping...

https://www.amazon.com/Crimping-Electrician-6-50mm%C2%B2-Cutters-Thickened-Reinforced/dp/B00MVE48Z6?ref=ast_p_ep

And you wont have to use bolt cutters to cut the wire anymore...


----------



## TheMidnightNarwhal (Oct 6, 2017)

dawaro said:


> Here you go, $30 and free shipping...
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Crimping-Electrician-6-50mm%C2%B2-Cutters-Thickened-Reinforced/dp/B00MVE48Z6?ref=ast_p_ep
> 
> And you wont have to use bolt cutters to cut the wire anymore...


Wow and it ships to Canada. I was about to order but noticed it doesn't mention 4 gauge.

" 6mm²/10mm²/25mm²/35mm²/50mm²( Similar to AWG 9/7/3/2/0)"

Just to make sure, it should still work?

And the only cutter I could find near me like that was 20$ lol.

EDIT: Shipping cost makes it way to high. Might aswell just get a hammer crimper on amazon for 25$.


----------



## Locomotive Tech (May 23, 2016)

I would be careful, as it says "The crimper has an individual settings from 6mm²/10mm²/25mm²/35mm²/50mm²( *Similar to AWG 9/7/3/2/0)*


----------



## microbe0511 (Sep 14, 2017)

I used a bench vice. Did one side of the connector at a time. Holds really well.


----------



## Iamsecond (Jan 3, 2017)

A multipurpose crimp and wire stripper is all you really need. One with the crimped on the end. Works fine. I use one like the south wire 6in1 from lowes. Now the real test is not for a 4 gauge but a 0 gauge power wire. That's when things get interesting. Pull out the 3 foot wire play toys.


----------



## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Jscoyne2 said:


> Idk of its been said but dont crimp. I get the proper sized lugs in the sealed end kind. Cut a few small pieces of solder and drop it in. About 1/4 filled. Heat up the lug so the solder turns to liquid and then dip and press your wire into it. The solder instantly creates a mold around the wire and seals the lug to the wire perfectly.
> 
> Ive never had issues
> 
> Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk


a proper crimp is better than solder. even on smaller wire. problem is, the tools and materials to do smaller wire expensive and time consuming. with larger wire, its easy and can be quicker than soldering. a proper crimp is a cold weld. look that up


----------



## Locomotive Tech (May 23, 2016)

SkizeR said:


> a proper crimp is better than solder. even on smaller wire. problem is, the tools and materials to do smaller wire expensive and time consuming. with larger wire, its easy and can be quicker than soldering. a proper crimp is a cold weld. look that up


A truer statement has yet to be spoken! I can't believe someone metioned "cold weld" referring to crimps!! If you're ever in Delaware, I'll by you a steak dinner!!


----------



## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Locomotive Tech said:


> A truer statement has yet to be spoken! I can't believe someone metioned "cold weld" referring to crimps!! If you're ever in Delaware, I'll by you a steak dinner!!


I'm guessing you have access to fancy crimpers at work? Luckyyy



Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk


----------



## Locomotive Tech (May 23, 2016)

SkizeR said:


> I'm guessing you have access to fancy crimpers at work? Luckyyy
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk


I would say yes, but I still don't have everything I "want". Current inventory of crimpers, dies, compression tools and insertion extraction tool is a little over 193K. Every 2 years, each of my tech's must be re-certified in crimping methods, techniques and inspections.

Medium rare?


----------



## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Locomotive Tech said:


> Medium rare?


----------



## Locomotive Tech (May 23, 2016)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYUIAGhZ-k8


----------



## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

SkizeR said:


> I'm guessing you have access to fancy crimpers at work? Luckyyy


Probably, but back to the concept of DIY...

For someone who will do 5 amps, it is not worth it to me to invest in a crimper when the local welding, car audio, or battery shop can knock them out for me for less... Combined with them knowing what they are doing, it could make sense to outsource them unless the shop is a long drive away. 

And I already have a smaller crimper and Duetch pin crimper, because those I need to crimp more often.

Thinking of taking to it with a torch and solder would work, but there is no way I am going to do that.


----------



## Locomotive Tech (May 23, 2016)

Something I should have mentioned early on in this discussion, there are numerous surplus on-line stores, Boeing, GE, etc where you can find used tools at nice discounts. 

You can also look at the manufacturer of the crimper you are looking for, AMP, T & B and on have used purchases of tools that are damaged but could be functional. Most companies are usually very truthful about the defect


----------



## rob feature (Nov 15, 2015)

dawaro said:


> Here you go, $30 and free shipping...
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Crimping-Electrician-6-50mm%C2%B2-Cutters-Thickened-Reinforced/dp/B00MVE48Z6?ref=ast_p_ep
> 
> And you wont have to use bolt cutters to cut the wire anymore...


I have this kit, and although I haven't used it yet, it appears to be well-made. Action on the rotating dies is nice and smooth. Certainly worth the $30 (it seems)


----------



## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

rob feature said:


> I have this kit, and although I haven't used it yet, it appears to be well-made. Action on the rotating dies is nice and smooth. Certainly worth the $30 (it seems)


just ordered this. will see how it does vs the yellow ebay 16 ton hydraulic crimper


----------



## Locomotive Tech (May 23, 2016)

They look really nice, Just be sure to use solid barrell type terminals, not the split type like in post 23. The hexagonal dies are not really suited for that type of crimp. The "split" seam WILL open over time/temp/vibration. The split type are designed to be folded over into the wire at the seams resembling a "M" and should be flat on the bottom.

Even better, there are many suppliers that sell extended barrell terminals that allow for two compressions. The best practice is to purchase the terminals from the crimper manufacturer


----------



## ca90ss (Jul 2, 2005)

TheMidnightNarwhal said:


> Question though, how exactly should the crimp look? Is it supposed to be all the part that touches the wire or only a small amount?


....


----------



## Locomotive Tech (May 23, 2016)

ca90ss said:


> ....


Great Picture! Compression area is well centered, not a bunch of strands poking out towards the ring I hope, nice and close to the insulation. Your'e Hired!

I see you have a set of WiHa HV pliers in the background there, good on ya man!


----------



## ca90ss (Jul 2, 2005)

Locomotive Tech said:


> Great Picture! Compression area is well centered, not a bunch of strands poking out towards the ring I hope, nice and close to the insulation. Your'e Hired!
> 
> I see you have a set of WiHa HV pliers in the background there, good on ya man!


No strands poking out and can't lose any while stripping or you have to cut and strip again. That's actually a pair of these.


----------



## Locomotive Tech (May 23, 2016)

ca90ss said:


> No strands poking out and can't lose any while stripping or you have to cut and strip again. That's actually a pair of these.


Knipex ROCKS, Best pliers you will ever own!

I wonder if we should start a technical methods and practices thread, with soldering, crimping, ground plane installations?

I see alot of folks using self tapping screws for ground securement, notorious for coming loose


----------



## 18inch (Jul 19, 2017)

was in the same boat as you (trying to find cheapest way to have a solid crimp ) and i just ended up using a simple hammer crimp like this one https://www.amazon.ca/NOCO-D800-Ham...8&qid=1507703254&sr=8-1&keywords=hammer+crimp with a 4lbs mason hammer and some solid lugs. any hammer would do really, would suggest some proper, tinned copper lugs though! but what you have will still work no problem. 
ended up being great! connections are solid, simple to do and dindt break the bank!


----------



## rob feature (Nov 15, 2015)

SkizeR said:


> just ordered this. will see how it does vs the yellow ebay 16 ton hydraulic crimper


:lurk::snacks::ears:


----------



## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

I also use a hydraulic crimper for anything 8awg or thicker. Works extremely well and takes less time than soldering. Also less mess, easier and a better connection.


----------



## TheMidnightNarwhal (Oct 6, 2017)

ca90ss said:


> ....


I see. I learned to there are different connectors. That's a lug compared to what I have where there is like a split line in the middle of the top.


----------



## TheMidnightNarwhal (Oct 6, 2017)

rob feature said:


> :lurk::snacks::ears:


Man I would like to order it but won't get it for the weekend since I'm in Canada.

Gotta deal with 20$ USD cable cutters. I envy USA so much for tools, harbor freight cable cutters are 8$!


----------



## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

I just use a multitool to cut the cable (fast and clean).


----------



## Jeffdachefz (Sep 14, 2016)

jokes aside, getting 4 gauge to a cold weld is pretty easy either with hammer crimps or hydraulic crimps or sky high's lever crimp.

8/0 is a pain in the @ss tho.


----------



## Locomotive Tech (May 23, 2016)

Panduit makes some decent Large Guage wire strippers for like 28 bucks, never need to worry about cutting strands. 

Panduit CST114-157B


----------



## lampinlance (Apr 15, 2018)

SkizeR said:


> just ordered this. will see how it does vs the yellow ebay 16 ton hydraulic crimper


Did you ever do the side by side comparison? I am in the market for a hydraulic crimper myself < $50. There are so many odd brands of hydraulic crimpers on Amazon. Some people love the products, while a bunch leak fluid after a few crimps. My other hesitation is everything in that price range has metric dies, not AWG sizes. I read on another post a guy used vise grips on a open ended terminal to squeeze down the 1/0 awg terminal to fit the metric dies. Would that be the best work around for using metric dies? I'm trying to avoid the "wings" created by improper sized dies. On one of the Amazon reviews of the mechanical crimper similar to yours stated it didn't work well with 1/0 wire? But you know how people reviews are... gotta take it with a grain of salt. So I'm really interested in seeing what you found out. Thanks!


----------



## dhmcfadin (Sep 28, 2017)

I have this one and I love it! It will crimp way bigger than 0 gauge if need be and the crimps are very consistent. Comes with at least a dozen different crimping dyes and spare parts/o-rings if needed but I have had no problems at all. I paid $36.99

Z ZTDM Wire Lug Terminal Pliers Crimper Cable crimping Machine Tool Kit (10T) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0A2TT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iSVDBbFHSK2VP


----------



## OneGun (Jun 15, 2018)

I have the  Temco TH0005.

I highly recommend it.


----------



## GMCtrk (Apr 14, 2018)

I love my temco hammer crimper. Easily crimps 2/0. $20.


----------



## WilliamS (Oct 1, 2016)

i use a vice, crimp one side in just a bit. Turn it 90 degrees and crimp them in on eachother, Turn it 90 again and crush it. Then stand it straight up in the vice, take my torch and keep adding solder till it stops soaking in.


----------



## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

I never bothered with crimping. I took some 4awg copper lugs. Filled it half with solder, cut the wire to where it fit perfectly. Blowtorch on the lug(in a vice) and melt the solder. Dip wire in and leave for 30 seconds. Provides a solid easy and fast connection. Never had any issues years later

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk


----------



## ca90ss (Jul 2, 2005)

dhmcfadin said:


> I have this one and I love it! It will crimp way bigger than 0 gauge if need be and the crimps are very consistent. Comes with at least a dozen different crimping dyes and spare parts/o-rings if needed but I have had no problems at all. I paid $36.99
> 
> Z ZTDM Wire Lug Terminal Pliers Crimper Cable crimping Machine Tool Kit (10T) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0A2TT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iSVDBbFHSK2VP


Doesn't look like it does a very good job, it shouldn't have those wings on the sides.


----------



## dhmcfadin (Sep 28, 2017)

ca90ss said:


> Doesn't look like it does a very good job, it shouldn't have those wings on the sides.




To each their own. As a crimper, it’s performs the job of crimping, doesn’t break or leak, was inexpensive, and creates a strong mechanical connection. Serves my needs.


----------



## ca90ss (Jul 2, 2005)

A hammer and the sidewalk can make a strong mechanical connection too, doesn't mean that's a good or right way to do it. I guess as long as you're happy with it it's no worse than some of the other half assed methods mentioned so far


----------



## dhmcfadin (Sep 28, 2017)

ca90ss said:


> A hammer and the sidewalk can make a strong mechanical connection too, doesn't mean that's a good or right way to do it. I guess as long as you're happy with it it's no worse than some of the other half assed methods mentioned so far




Please explain to me what is half assed or inadequate about the crimper leaving wings on the lug? Besides you saying it’s wrong. Why is it wrong? What are the electrical implications? I’m genuinely curious.


----------



## ca90ss (Jul 2, 2005)

Using a die that is too small for the lug can cause some of the strands to break which can cause premature failure and a higher resistance connection. You may get lucky and never have a problem or you may burn your car down with someone you care about inside.


----------



## dhmcfadin (Sep 28, 2017)

ca90ss said:


> Using a die that is too small for the lug can cause some of the strands to break which can cause premature failure and a higher resistance connection. You may get lucky and never have a problem or you may burn your car down with someone you care about inside.




There you go, the first part of your response was helpful. The die I am using is too small. I didn’t know that and I didn’t love the wings but didn’t know how else to prevent it. I’ll go back and redo those. I appreciate the advice!


----------



## OneGun (Jun 15, 2018)

I think once, on a car audio forum, the critique of ones' crimping method leads to an allusion to a possibility of a flaming fatality, the thread has completely run its useful course.


----------



## dhmcfadin (Sep 28, 2017)

OneGun said:


> I think once, on a car audio forum, the critique of ones' crimping method leads to an allusion to a possibility of a flaming fatality, the thread has completely run its useful course.




Hahaha, so true!


----------



## GMCtrk (Apr 14, 2018)

How I do it.

OFC cable.
Hammer crimper.
Tinned copper lugs.
Heavy duty shrink wrap with glue inside.

All this is available cheaply from Temco. The hammer crimper works flawless. 

The picture of the crimp above doesn't look right. Also, whoever mentioned crimping with a vice, makes me cringe a bit.

With a proper crimp the copper strands of the wire should become a solid piece if you cut the lug.


----------



## ca90ss (Jul 2, 2005)

I'll start taking more pictures at work so you can see the aftermath of an electrical fire. It's not pretty.


----------



## OneGun (Jun 15, 2018)

ca90ss said:


> I'll start taking more pictures at work so you can see the aftermath of an electrical fire. It's not pretty.


I was an auto tech/heavy equipment mechanic. You're not going to show me anything I haven't seen. 

What I have seen too, however, is a **** ton of beyond shoddy repairs of all kinds that _didn't_ end in death. 

I'm not suggesting that improper repairs/installation can't cause problems, just that hinting that the guy's crimp could kill his family is a bit extreme.


----------



## ca90ss (Jul 2, 2005)

Yes, lots of electrical fires don't end in death, some do though. I do boats that can be 1000 miles or more from the nearest land, not as easy to just get out and walk away.


----------



## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

dhmcfadin said:


> There you go, the first part of your response was helpful. The die I am using is too small. I didn’t know that and I didn’t love the wings but didn’t know how else to prevent it. I’ll go back and redo those. I appreciate the advice!


That is the problem with using metric crimp dies with AWG crimps/wire..they do NOT match exactly. I mean, some sizes are closer then others, but it would be best, at least in terms of most consistent and safest results, to use AWG dies.


----------



## GMCtrk (Apr 14, 2018)

Another pro to using welding cable/lugs , everything is standardized.


----------



## dhmcfadin (Sep 28, 2017)

seafish said:


> That is the problem with using metric crimp dies with AWG crimps/wire..they do NOT match exactly. I mean, some sizes are closer then others, but it would be best, at least in terms of most consistent and safest results, to use AWG dies.




Great observation. I am going to see if I can buy a set of awg dies. I didn’t know they made those either!


----------



## dhmcfadin (Sep 28, 2017)

seafish said:


> That is the problem with using metric crimp dies with AWG crimps/wire..they do NOT match exactly. I mean, some sizes are closer then others, but it would be best, at least in terms of most consistent and safest results, to use AWG dies.




Just searched amazon and didn’t find any awg dies. Any suggestions where I could find them?


----------



## dhmcfadin (Sep 28, 2017)

GMCtrk said:


> Another pro to using welding cable/lugs , everything is standardized.




I found welding cable through EWCS while shopping for my most recent build. I’ll never go back to any other kind of power wire. That stuff is stout!


----------



## Sine Swept (Sep 3, 2010)

For the ring / spade terminals that come in 4 gauge amp kits a pair of 909's can and do make a solid crimp. If you use them well enough you can also strip speaker cable with them!

For closed end lugs I'll 9/10 use a pair of ratcheting crimpers for ease of use and location of use, rarely I'll bust out the hydraulic crimper. I have another pair of very nice ratcheting crimpers for use on 8 gauge and under.

Mine is similar to this

https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/15-in-ratcheting-terminal-crimping-tool/A-p8592099e


----------



## SPLEclipse (Aug 17, 2012)

I use the same 10 ton crimpers. Here's slightly oversized 1/0 in 2/0 copper lugs using the 70mm die. This isn't actually my best crimp, lol - it's the only piece I have left as the rest went into the car. I crimp the wire twice - once higher up and then once lower on the lug, and I try to align the two crimps but this one got a little twisted on the second crimp. I have crosscut and it's solid inside - no air gaps or strands visible. For "normal" 1/0 and lugs the 60mm should work fine - I can't remember for sure but I know I've used 1/0 lugs before and didn't have the "wing" problem.


----------



## dhmcfadin (Sep 28, 2017)

SPLEclipse said:


> I use the same 10 ton crimpers. Here's slightly oversized 1/0 in 2/0 copper lugs using the 70mm die. This isn't actually my best crimp, lol - it's the only piece I have left as the rest went into the car. I crimp the wire twice - once higher up and then once lower on the lug, and I try to align the two crimps but this one got a little twisted on the second crimp. I have crosscut and it's solid inside - no air gaps or strands visible. For "normal" 1/0 and lugs the 60mm should work fine - I can't remember for sure but I know I've used 1/0 lugs before and didn't have the "wing" problem.




Awesome! I will give this a shot! Thanks!


----------



## 04quadcab (Dec 31, 2017)

I ordered a cheap hydraulic crimper from Amazon. I think it was literally the cheapest one they had. It came with dyes that would allow me to crimp anything from 8 gauge up to 00. It is one of those tools that I've used maybe 5 times in the 3 or 4 years that I have owned it.

Even though I hardly ever use it I do not regret buying it. But, this is one of those situations when it's nice to have friends that will let you borrow tools. 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

There is no dishonour in saying something is beyond DIY, and then finding a shop to do the occasional crimp.


----------



## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

Does anyone recommend a quality hydraulic crimper not made in China?


----------



## ca90ss (Jul 2, 2005)

dgage said:


> Does anyone recommend a quality hydraulic crimper not made in China?


For a quality one form T&B, Amp, Greenlee etc. you're looking at a couple thousand $ minimum.


----------



## dhmcfadin (Sep 28, 2017)

So the next size up die fixed my problem! Thanks for the insight everyone!


----------



## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

ca90ss said:


> For a quality one form T&B, Amp, Greenlee etc. you're looking at a couple thousand $ minimum.


Bearer of bad news!


----------



## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

so whats wrong with using a hammer and some channel locks? i get that its not pretty, but it will be under shrink wrap. Its free and just as secure. I have never had a problem.


----------



## ParDeus (May 10, 2014)

Paging Skizer!

How did the blue crimpers compare to the yellow hydraulic one?

Thanks


----------



## JamesRC (Sep 18, 2017)

FWIW, I use this $20 tool from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003X51S00/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's worked well on 4 gauge and 0 gauge. You set the wire and terminal in, then hammer the piston down 5-10 times.


----------



## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

Or save yourself the hassle and buy one of these kits where the terminal comes already crimped on, with heat shrink and techflex.

https://www.amazon.com/SK6241-Stinger-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005QEO1FU


----------



## Kdog308 (Sep 9, 2021)

TheMidnightNarwhal said:


> I managed to find out how to cut it, with bolt cutters but how do you crimp? I practised on 2 extra spade terminals that I won't use and both ways did not went good using wire cutters.


If you have acess to a vice then this is simple. Find a ball bearing roughly half to 3/4 the width of the terminal. Put the wire in the open end of terminal or lug then position in a vice so that the wire is out the side of the vice, Position the bearing on the terminal were you fell the crimp should be.
kinda hard to hold everything in place since the bearing will want to roll. Once you have a snug lock on both terminal and bearing crank vice to close. Tighten till a nice indentation is made on terminal. Remove and check, if you need to apply more pressure then do so.


----------



## DoubleCrown (Jun 26, 2019)

Get a hydraulic crimper for 40 bucks or whatever from eBay Amazon ext. They don't last forever but will get your through your build and then some.
You can cut 1/0 gauge wire with a fresh razor blade in a hand knife. That's right, a Stanley knife.


----------



## DoubleCrown (Jun 26, 2019)

Yescom 10 Ton Crimping Tool Set 4mm-70mm Hydraulic Wire Crimper Battery Cable Lug

I got this one. No affiliation what so ever. Works well with 1/0


----------



## DoubleCrown (Jun 26, 2019)

ParDeus said:


> Paging Skizer!
> 
> How did the blue crimpers compare to the yellow hydraulic one?
> 
> Thanks


I saw that PS sounds use the yellow ones in a recent vid


----------



## DoubleCrown (Jun 26, 2019)

miniSQ said:


> so whats wrong with using a hammer and some channel locks? i get that its not pretty, but it will be under shrink wrap. Its free and just as secure. I have never had a problem.


I guess its about maximising the theoretical; a proper crimp will become a uniform lug of copper in theory. That's the goal.


----------

