# Alpine 7909 what's it worth?



## jeffp (Jan 18, 2015)

So I just bought this unit and it needs work. Hopefully it is not in to bad of shape. 
I will refurbish this unit and see how it sounds. My buddy bought one back in the day, and when he told me how much he paid for the unit I could not believe it. I do have to say it sounded clean, and he was using a junk Jensen amp.
So how much is one of these units worth today, provided it is in working order?
I have refurbed older kenwood equipment, and still have a KRC-757 in my hotrod, but I also have a KRC-777 thatI have not worked on yet, but I do have all of the parts to complete the refurb, including the front face plate. I also have a KRC-858 deck I did refurb and listened to after I refurbed it, and I also replaced the front face plate on that unit as well. I have all of the cases for the units as well, all new, that I bought some time ago when they were still available. 
Anyway, let me know wht you think the Alpine is worth fully functional. I would like to get a new face plate for the unit, but I am not sure that is still an option for the unit, but if I can get it I will.


----------



## ChrisB (Jul 3, 2008)

If it needs a new transport, you will be SOL. The transports sold out years ago.


----------



## jeffp (Jan 18, 2015)

I don't think the transport is bad in the unit, but I did buy a new laser for the cd player. Which I am a little skeptical about, it is coming from Russia. I also found new lasers that are from China, they say sony on them, but that means little, they are much cheaper then the one I bought, but again that means little I think.
I know I can get the unit operational, its just a matter of how much it will cost me to complete the repairs.
I would really like to get a new face plate for the unit, not that it needs one, but I like to replace the parts that get the most use, and abuse. The face plate is one of those parts.


----------



## ryanr7386 (Feb 21, 2011)

You should have done your homework on this unit before you bought it! Faceplates are no longer available unless you can find another unit, there's a couple hundred bucks alone. Finding someone with enough knowledge to work on these decks is going to be hard enough also. 

Used non working condition I have seen go for $150 to $300 bucks. 
Working condition from $350 to $650 if its a pullout model.
Anniversary model if in good shape they go for $500 to over a Grand.

It all depends on the conditions of the deck of course!

Good luck man!


----------



## jeffp (Jan 18, 2015)

I am not worried about being able to work on the unit. I am a very good technician. Electronics repair has been my preferred professional job ever since I started in the work environment. 

The face plate doesn't look bad, I just like to replace that part for any used deck if I can. I am more concerned with the mechanical part of the cd player then anything else. Broken gears are the big problem.
The unit is a pullout, and from what I can see there re no missing parts to the unit, but I will know for sure once I get the unit on my bench. I did get a new laser for the unit, so I am about 300 into it at this point.
So if I end up eating some of my investment getting the unit operational, well that is the chance I have taken I guess. As I said, new they were so expensive to me I never really entertained buying one new, well maybe for a nano second LOL, so I got kenwood equipment. 
I have never bought a cd player for the car, except a pioneer 6 cd changer that is interfaced through the tuner, and that does well through the kenwood deck I have in the car now. 

I did recently buy a nak CD400 from the junk yard for 25.00 and that lead to a new RDS deck off of ebay, and woofers sold me two broken decks for 100.00 no face plates(removable front panels) I also bought a face plate off of ebay, but is missing two buttons on the front, drag, but I got it working. 
So for the NAK equipment, I was able to get three units up and running out of the four units, and convert two RDS units to us standards so I now have one new unit for my car, and a unit for my dad's jeep, and a third deck that can used as a spare. I can get a new face plate for 189.00 from woofers, but I don't think I will end up doing that. 
Funny, how this has snowballed, I'm blowing all kinds of money, I just cant resist, I love audio, and I am very good a repairing the equipment, it's fun for me, but this stuff gets expensive quick to make them perfect again. 
I haven't spent any money on audio equipment for years, but it seems I am making up for lost time LOL. 
I hope I have everything I need to fix the alpine deck, that would be cool, and if that is the case, I just may sell the NAK deck and keep the alpine.
Fun stuff guys, I love working on this stuff, there is nothing like working a unit, and playing that first CD after I have repaired the deck.


----------



## TrickyRicky (Apr 5, 2009)

I have an original service manual...if needed and pretty sure you can find it online.


----------



## jeffp (Jan 18, 2015)

Surprisingly, you are correct the service manual is on line in PDF format. I downloaded it and it will work, but there is nothing like the factory service manual in original form. I did take note of the schematic I downloaded. I could tell the factory manual is a foldout of the schematic. The PDF schematic is copied in such a way that the portions of the schematic overlaps each page. So I can print it cut to fit together to get a single sheet schematic. Not to bad, but as I said the factory manual is preferred, so if you would like to get rid of the manual let me know, and I will buy it from you.
I cant wait to dig into this unit, some people like doing a variety of things, but for me troubleshooting and repairing electronics is my fun ever since my first 8 track player in the third grade. I have been hooked ever since that time.


----------



## TrickyRicky (Apr 5, 2009)

Oops I just looked at it and its for a 7949 not a 7909...so its useless to ya. Sorry about that, but yeah they do have folded pages inside for the schematics and diagrams of the PCB's with traces shown in two colors (for top and bottom traces) so if the online copies are black and white then they might not show very well and make it difficult to read.


----------



## ryanr7386 (Feb 21, 2011)

jeffp said:


> Surprisingly, you are correct the service manual is on line in PDF format. I downloaded it and it will work, but there is nothing like the factory service manual in original form. I did take note of the schematic I downloaded. I could tell the factory manual is a foldout of the schematic. The PDF schematic is copied in such a way that the portions of the schematic overlaps each page. So I can print it cut to fit together to get a single sheet schematic. Not to bad, but as I said the factory manual is preferred, so if you would like to get rid of the manual let me know, and I will buy it from you.
> I cant wait to dig into this unit, some people like doing a variety of things, but for me troubleshooting and repairing electronics is my fun ever since my first 8 track player in the third grade. I have been hooked ever since that time.


Let me look when I get back from Minneapolis this weekend. I might have a usable service manual with the schematics your needing. 

On another note, I think the transport on the 7909 was used by several decks in that era. The first thing that failed was the clutch gear on the right side of the transport. If it starts clicking and grinding when you load the first CD that's likely what it is. Find another deck 7903,7904, 7905 etc and those little gears are commonly used through out.


----------



## jeffp (Jan 18, 2015)

I would be very interested in the docs. Let me know.
Also, I was able to get the FSM on the transport, so I snapped that up quick. One thing I did find interesting was that the play station 2 utilizes the same laser, so now I am wondering if that is the same transport assembly. 
REGARDS:

Jeffp


----------



## ryanr7386 (Feb 21, 2011)

jeffp said:


> I would be very interested in the docs. Let me know.
> Also, I was able to get the FSM on the transport, so I snapped that up quick. One thing I did find interesting was that the play station 2 utilizes the same laser, so now I am wondering if that is the same transport assembly.
> REGARDS:
> 
> Jeffp


Boy, I can't fathom that. Got me curious now! I believe I have the transport manual as well. Maybe a copy though. I'll drop you an pm over the weekend.


----------



## jeffp (Jan 18, 2015)

*some people should not be allowed to work on electronics!*

I got the deck today, and it is a little rough. At least the front face looks good enough. The batteries are dead, no problem. The dc to dc converter has been worked on, well screwed with, the cover was cut off. I don't know who thinks that is an acceptable repair, but Alpine cased the converter for a reason, to stop RFI/EMI cutting the cover off is just asinine! So I removed the converter, disassembled the component and Q3 is toast, also, I am wondering if Alpine used acid flux solder, as a good deal of the solder joints are corroded, the board looks good. So I will replace the bad components, and clean up the board, then the unit should power up. 
The cd is messed with. I have to look at the schematic to see about that one, but it looks like either a connector, or ribbon type cable has been re-soldered, but it is missing. Also the interface ribbon cable to the main board is missing. I can get that part at digikey. I have noted that some of the SMD capacitors also have corroded solder joints, so I am wondering if the unit was in a high humidity environment. 
The main board looks good though and the front display pcb looks good as well. 
Its a project, and the wire harness on the sleeve is hosed, but very fixable. I just have to get the new wire and fix them. I did buy a second sleeve with harness, so I just may go that way. Getting all of the correct wire colors can be expensive.
I will start with the dc to dc converter and go from there.


----------



## jeffp (Jan 18, 2015)

*cd transport hosed also*

So I got to looking at the transport for the unit, and iy is hosed as well. I can see where the 22Uf 6 volt smd capacitors have corrosion on the leads, all of them. That leads me to believe they went over voltage, the fastest way to make a cap leak, or blow is over voltage, especially an electrolytic cap. The laser ribbon flex cable is hosed, ant would appear the connector is missing on the control board. I am looking for some pics to figure out what is missing. 
I was able to order the 2SK612 power transistor for the dc to dc converter. I also found there is no schematic in the service manual as well. So if I cant get that part working, then I am limited as what I can do. I did think about an entire new converter but that is a last resort. So what that part does is take 12DC and convert it to a +10 and -10 volt supply. So there is some possibilities there, but the new switchers just may be to noisy, I am going to look up the Ic and see what that tells me.


----------



## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

It may have been shorter to just list was ISN'T damaged. Good lord that 09 was abused. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jeffp (Jan 18, 2015)

*Dc to Dc converter schematic or parts picture*

I am working on the dc to dc converter for the unit and that is proving to be a problem. I have ordered the 2SK611 transistor, so that problem is taken care of. The other problem is that there is a cap that is missing, and I don't know what the value of the component is. I have an idea, but since the converter has been screwed with I don't know for sure. 
So does anyone on this forum know or have a good picture of the converter I can use to verify the capacitors on the converter.
I was able to get a picture of a converter, but I can see the parts values, but I was able to verify there is a missing capacitor. However, since this part has been hacked, I am skeptical the components that have been replaced are the correct parts. Here is a picture of a good part, but as I said I cant see the component values. 
Any help would be much appreciated.


----------



## ryanr7386 (Feb 21, 2011)

I seem to remember the values of the caps on the converter were of odd values. Also, just looked at my Service Manual and the converter schematics are not included. The S M isn't as clean as I remembered. If you want it you can have it. Just shoot me some shipping fees.


----------



## lasian (Feb 21, 2015)

I just like to replace that part for any used deck if I can.


----------



## jeffp (Jan 18, 2015)

I have the converter apart, and I see where someone replaced the caps. 56 uF 35 volt. Nut one cap is missing, I am assuming it is also a 56uF but I am not sure about it.
Hoes anyone here have some documentation on the dc to dc converter I could use to verify the cap values with, even a blown part if it has not been hacked into with a dremel, such a poor way to work on electronics, damage the component trying to fix it, that just sounds WRONG.
I have been trained in the Mil STD 2000 soldering school, and the IPC 610 soldering school, which I think is a poor class compared to the 2000 class. I sat at a soldering bench 8 hours a day for 5 weeks for that class. Hardcore class, but I will tell you what, I sure know how to solder, heck some of my stuff went out to space, and most of my work went into jet aircraft. So you could say I am a stickler for correct soldering repairs. 
First rule: Created NO damage in your repair.
second rule: You should be able to remove a component from one piece of gear to repair another identical piece of gear, cannibalize one unit to fix another, and if you cant do that, then you have no business soldering.


----------



## jeffp (Jan 18, 2015)

I did the cap replacement on the first CD transport PCB last night. Not to bad doing the SMD caps. I was a little apprehensive about changing those components. I have had trouble in the past with larger SMD caps, and getting them removed without doing any damage to the board landing pads. 
Most of the caps were bad. I tested a few of them on my RLC meter and they were toast. Seems the 10 and 22uF caps were leaking the most. 
After I got the parts removed, I was very pleased to find there was very little pad damage due to the leaking goop from the caps. I was able to remove all of the cap goop, and clean the pads up to look like a new board. 
The first board also needed the ribbon connectors, and that was a fun one to find. Both connectors were damaged, and the laser connector was gone all together. I have to make a PCB to connect the laser flex PCB, to the new ribbon cable I bought at digikey.
The 16 conductor cable, now that is an almost a no go. Seems the one cable was broken, which I am hoping is the reason for the chip replacement. I repaired that cable. The missing cable, well I can buy a new one if I want to buy 600pcs @ $2.00 Ea. The cable conductor pitch is weird, well Molex doesn't make them until ordered, and ALL of the electronic suppliers don't stock them. 
So my solution was to buy 3 six conductor cables, cut two conductors off of one cable, and insert them into the connector next to each other. Pain way to do it, but for 6 bucks worth the time and effort. 
I will do the main board caps today, and see how that goes.
I also got new batteries for the deck. The horizontal battery is a drop in replacement. The vertical battery on the other hand is not available with the solder tabs, and I did find a holder for it, but it was on back order, so I will have to remove the tabs from the old battery and solder them to the new battery. I don't like the heat factor with the soldering, but that is just a calculated risk I will have to take. I have done that before, but I never liked doing it that way, but for $1.66 Ea, I think I will chance it LOL.
FUN FUN FUN.
I am still waiting on the caps for the DC converter, I have all the rest of the parts for that unit ready to install. The last thing to do is to get the volume pots changed out and those parts are on their way to me as well.
The volume control will be another fun one. Since the complete part is NLA, my plan is to replace the one pot in the assembly. So that will require me to disassemble the part to replace the volume pot, and since I'm in there, the fader pot as well, they both are 100K parts, and I ordered parts to take apart for the components to do the repair. That should be a fun one to do, but I think I have it handled


----------



## jeffp (Jan 18, 2015)

*Recapped!*

ok I got one main board and one cd board recapped. I did mess up on three caps for the order. size constraints and one a NPO was wrong, and one polar cap was wrong. I have the correct parts on order, and will add them to my BOM. 
I installed the batteries in the board, and the one that I mentioned I would have to solder, well I was right, destroyed the battery. Then I got to thinking, how brain dead I was, and realized I could use the horizontal leaded battery in the vertical position. All I had to do was to bend the positive lead strait, trim it up a little, and then solder a lead to the negative tab and then to the board. 
It's funny, I get so caught up in replacing parts exactly I cant see the trees because of the forest. 
Anybody need a 24mm unleaded battery LOL. I also looked into and bought a rechargeable battery, new technology part for what that is worth. The battery is 1/4 the size, and is rated the same as the CR2450. So I just may try that part in the future and see how that does. The part is three times the cost as the replicable CR2450 and I am thinking it cant have the same reserve capacity as the larger CR2450 battery. Technology is good and smaller is better, but when it comes to batteries, there really is no substitute for surface area when it comes to how long a battery will maintain its charge in regards to the continuous drain on the battery, for the most part. 
Anyway, I can wait to turn this unit ON and see if the smoke flies LOL, like my old electronics instructor told me, You have to keep the smoke in the part, if you let the smoke out, it stops working LLLLL


----------

