# 2010 Sti : Stealth SQ install with a slight twist :)



## simplicityinsound

Must be the month of Subbys, after years without one, i get to work on two of em in the span of 30 days  And essentially the same car!

this is a 2010 Sti owned by a friend of mine. The install is a fake floor but it has a slight variation to it, and one i havent done before 

The goals:

1. achieve a good level of overall sound quality
2. do a clean stealthy fake floor install in the back
3. allow easy access to the rear strut bolts and perhaps keep the spare


lets get started.

The signal starts with a Kenwood 9140 navigation dvd headunit, supplied by the customer. it is installed via the stock brakcets and the OEM nav finisher for a completely stock look. I ran the USB/IPOD output cable to the glovebox.










the BT mic i placed at the instrument cluster shroud area:










the car features Zapco processing, so all tuning is done from the front seat via the laptop:










front stage is a set of Seas Lotus Reference 6.5" two way component set. the stock doors were sound proofed, a new baffle, coated with truck bedliner, was installed, and new wires ran into the door:










the speakers were properly terminated:










and installed into the baffle:


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## simplicityinsound

same goes of course, for the passenger side:





































the tweeters are molded into the A pillars, pushed as far forward as possible, and aimed off axis at each other, sorry again for the lighting.


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## simplicityinsound

a few build pics of the pillars.

first, the rings were aimed and attached:










grille cloth was pulled over the shape, resin applied. when it cured, duraglass/resin mixture was poured into the inside to fully strengthen it:










then filler was applied and the shape sanded smooth:










and then vinyl was applied to them. the tweeters were wired up as well:










the tweeters were then pressured fit into the pillars, and a few pices of sound proofed added for good measure:










and the finished product ready to go back into the car:


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## simplicityinsound

now a few pics of the wiring bundle as it travels from the front to the back of the car:


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## simplicityinsound

moving to the hatch area...when you open the door, here is hwat you see. a newly cut floor mat covers a new fake floor, with nothing really visible in site. the floor has been raised about 3.5" to level with the opening.










pull off the cargo mat and you see the fake floor. trimmed in durable graphite carpet, with a center cutout and a press fit grill covered in breathable black carpet.










pop off the grille and here is what lies underneath. three zapco DC reference amps, a DC500.1 upfront supplies 500 watts to the sub, two DC360.4s, bridged, powers the left and right side front stage separately, 180 watts for each midbass and each tweeter. a Stereo Integrity BM MK sites in the middle. everyhting is trimmed with graphite grey carbon fiber vinyl...to match the graphite grey exterior.

there is a reason for this perhaps somewhat interesting layout...the original plan was for a 650.6 and a 500.1, but that would present a unsymetrical layout, and the 650.6 was temprorarily out of stock. so after some deliberation, this combo of amps was used to make sure things are cosmetically balanced and give the proper amount of power


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## simplicityinsound

so here is the slight twist to this fake floor. 

one of the goals we tossed around was somehow retaining the spare tire. well, the new imprezza has a somehwat interesting floor structure. two big metal shields are the front of hte hatch area, protecting the smog related units underneath. and a very shallow spare tire "well" in the middle.

one of the common problems with spare tire retention fake floor installs is that in order to get to the spare, you gotta do a lot of extra stuff. such as first removing the fake floor panels, cosmetic trim panels if there are any, and then pop out the subbox which usually is molded into the concave surface of the spare tire itself.

to me, assuming a worst case scenario, its dark, you are on the side of the highway, having to deal with all these tasks, plus having loose pieces all over the place, not to mention, maybe having to watch out for random wiring bundles...this just isnt the way i would prefer it.

so...after some careful measuring, i decided to do a install so that all the amps and the sub, along with their accompanying wires, can be relatively easily lifted out of the way to clear the spare tire. emphasis was placed on being able to do this without ANY tools, just your hands is needed.

at the same time of course, the whole thing needs to be secure and rattle free. 

so here is what i came up with.

you will notice in the previous pics that the floor is in three sections...and that is for a specific reason.

says bam, you get a flat, and you need to remove the spare. here is what you do:

step 1: fold the back seats down slightly (about 15 degress forward is fine)

step 2: pop out the two side fake floor panels held in place via HD velcro 










step 3: at the back of the center piece, there are two wing nuts at either side, undo them:










step 4: the back portion of the center fake floor acutally flips up, revealing a handle bolted to the rack:










step 5: lift up on the handle, and the entire structure pivots up, secured by hinges at the front. I bought the customer a heavy duty telescoping hood prop from sears, just pop it under the structure, and now you have enough room to easily get the spare tire out:










i replaced the wing nut on the stock spare tire hold down with a bolt to give the subbox some extra clearance, and you only need to finger tighten it since the subbox acutally holds it down very tightly.










i timed myself doing this three times, and by the third time, i can access the spare in under 30 seconds  the rack is a bit heavy, but nothing a grown up cant handle.

would i liked to perhaps put it on actuator? perhaps...but that would probably make the budget go up too much, and there is also the thing about what if it fails or the car looses power. in the end, the goal here is not to be trick or fancy, but to be functional. I also played around with the idea of hood struts, but gave that up because trying to find the one with the right force, drilling the right place to attach things, and trust it to a ball joint scares me  another benefit of this is that the storage bins under the floor can still be utlized to hold various items...including some of the tools displaced from the tool tray whcih used to sit inside the spare tire rim.

besides, this hood prop can double as a baton for uuummm protection 

so here is the wacky view that i have never seen before, the entire module flipped upward, as viewed from the front:



















out of pure curiosity, i played the system with it like that...it acutally doesnt sound much different. lol...


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## simplicityinsound

one of the other goals was that the install allow us to reach the rear strut mounting bolts easily. so as you can see, i made cutouts where the bolts are and you can easily reach them from the top once you pop off the side floor pieces:



















onto the build pics.

first i made the foundational floor pieces, the center one cut a cutout that is slightly smaller than the upper opening of the spare tire rim. then i made another round baffle that is slightly smaller than the bottom of the spare tire well rim. the idea here is to have a enclosure that is slightly smaller than the inner area of the rim, so when it pivots, it clears the rim itself:










fleece was pulled, resin applied, and then reinforced with 6 layers of glass on the inside, and 5 on the outside:



















i then secured in a top baffle over the hole with 2ton epoxy and fiberglass, when that dried, i filled in the dips with filler and sanded it all smooth to form a flat floor again:










i then made the cutout for the SI BM sub, with the four little nooks to clear the terminal:


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## simplicityinsound

then i attached the side walls, holes were cut into them to allow air to circulate in and out of the rack, the side walls are all 3/4" MDF with an additional 1/2" tacked on at the front mounting points for the hinge:



















anywhere the rack will contact metal, i placed a thick layer of foam mat to prevent rattling:










you see also the T shaped hinge attached. everyhting that bares weight, such as the hinges, the handle, and the side bolt down bracket, is attached using bolts and nylon lock washers:










these are the metal shield/brace i talked about earlier, they are pre drilled and bolts inserted into them to line up wtih the hinge holes:










these are hte side foundational pieces, with spacers attached:










these were all bolted into the vehicle, and tested to make sure the concept works smoothly:










the amps and subs were put into the rack, and the top cosmetic trim piece test fitted:










and the entire fake floor test fitted:


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## simplicityinsound

the cosmetic trim piece was then wrapped with CF vinyl:



















the top floor with graphite carpet:




























here are shots of the famous SI BM, its tiny depths and more importantly, ability to work in tiny sealed boxes, was a great blessing for this install. the box internal volume is around .55 cub roughly, tiny for a 12" driver!




























here is the 0 guage grounding lug, attached to a solid part of the floor, paint sanded away:


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## simplicityinsound

and some wiring pics of the tray itself, a lot of stuff in a not so large space, took some figuring out, but it turned out okay:



















and the bundles that go into the rack, they are at the front so the pivoting movement doesnt disturb them much at all:




















So thats it...unlike the last Sti i did, this one sacrifices a little flashy cosmetics for durable daily functionality, i am pretty happy with how the spare tire retention thing came out. the only two pieces that we had to relocate was the jack (under the front seat) and a long rod to spin the jack handle (under the back floor carpet). all the other tools still go into the bins under the floor. 

sound quality wise, it is comparable with the other Sti i did a long time ago, images nicely good high stage, solid midbass. the BM is very nice, the bass blends effortlessly into the sound, with very above average low freq extension considering hte enclosure size and the physical attributes of the sub itself....listening to it, one would never guess its a 3.5" deep subwoofer back there...i had to dial the sub amp way down and it has output to spare! 

with some more tuning, this one should be pretty darn nice, maybe i can convince him to go to a comp or two hehe.

b


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## Mless5

BRAVO!!!


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## trevordj

always very impressive! I really like how that rack turned out.


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## strong*I*bumpin

Dude ,we're running out of compliments


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## Salad Fingers

Sweet, I'll be doing something very similar in my Vue soon. Only I'll be running Audison VRx Chrome Shadow amps, Morel Elate LE 2 ways, Pioneer DEX-P99RS, and two Boston Acoustics G3 12's. Thanks for making it look like I copied you when I do this thing... Nice work...


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## ErinH

2 things:
1) I have that same floor mat in my trunk. My stuff came from Lowe's. 
2) I really do like the use of a raised false floor. I did something like that in one of my versions but instead of a hood pop, I used a scrap piece of 2x4. LOL!

Clean work.


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## simplicityinsound

damn, if i had known it was avaiable at lowes i wouldnt have driven the extra 5 mins to home depot hahaha

dude that hood prop is a serious piece of kit, its more substantial than some batons i have handled lol and it works the same way


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## Allan74

Beautiful trunk. That just gave me a few good ideas for my Skyline installation that's coming up as soon as I track down my last pair of speakers needed.


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## scooter99

See Bing, damn it my man, this is why you inspire me! Great freaking work once again!!! I love your installs, when's the next one!!!


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## .BNO.

Bing that is awesome, i like the way you flipped the spare! 



Cheers

Dan


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## TRD07

VERY NICE BUILD.


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## jorgegarcia

I want that car. That exact same car.


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## akanoon

One of my favorite installs from Bing! I love the idea of the stealthiness of a false floor but could not give up the spare -- here is a solution! Great job Bing.


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## jayhawkblk

hey B, great idea with the spare tire. I like the way you think.


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## ntrinsik

Ridiculously clean install, Bing!


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## vwtoby

what do you use to cover any big holes in the front doors Bing? (if there are any?) just deadner matt?


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## simplicityinsound

vwtoby said:


> what do you use to cover any big holes in the front doors Bing? (if there are any?) just deadner matt?


i have found that foam deadener like the Edead V4, whcih is very thick, works well to prevent air from escaping.


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## ron_c1

Bing - this is without a doubt my favorite! It seems everytime I bring a car to you I get an improvement over the previous install. This being an STI, I didn't really expect that it would compare to my previous car which had a similar setup, but MUCH quieter interior. I really can't wait to see how much more we can improve the sound after the speakers have broken in and we tune it a bit. I'm not sure if it is the craptastic OEM stereo in the STI that I had started to tolerate after coming from my TL almost 6 months ago...but I really think the STI sounds better!


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## simplicityinsound

i expected the STi to sound better actually, aftermarket HU, more power all around and IMO a better interior


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## simplicityinsound

i am not so sure how this can work in a lude though...with a hatch you can swing it high enough to easily get the spare out, wih the shallow small trunk like the lude, it maybe tough...but if smaller amps/sub is used, i am sure it can work. 

i hate that honda gives you this shallow channel instead of a real well


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## jimp

damn, very nice work again. I almost "hate" to click on your build logs, (J/K) as they are always very neat & classy.


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## tintbox

Simplicity Awesome!


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## sn95chico

super clean install 

great car and great set up 

how does it sound


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## trigg007

actuator or not, that is a very clever rack + the system configuration (amps, speakers) should yield great sound! BRAVO!!:rockon:


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## astrochex

beautiful install with extremely clever functionality. :bow down:

I'm glad you're not in OC, it would be very, very difficult to resist your skills.


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## armen818

i have a question for you.

I Plan on getting Zapco amps for my install too. I already have a DC ref 1000.4 for my 2-way active front stage. Now my question is do really need a DC ref 1000.1 for the subs or can i just get the Ref 1000.1 ??

DC ref 1000.4 for the front stage with the build in DSP, but do need a DSP for the SUB?



BTW that's a nice clean install great job


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## sydmonster

Love that lifting rack, im not sure why more cars aren't done like that.


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## ttocs388

I built my system in my stang so that the amp rack and the enclosure can be pulled out quickly if I need to store it for a while, take it to the shop or to the track. It takes 2 poeple probably 20 mins to pull the entire system as everything is connected by hrns's and such, a little longer to put it all back. A talk about this on my cardomain page but I do not show it as I would like to be the only one that knows how to take it apart and remove it. Don't ya think giving instructions on how to take it out is a little like an invite to do so? Hope you have a good alarm...


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## scooter99

Hey Bing, do you use just regular string led's in your installs or do you use a special kind? I'm getting a list together for the new install and I want to add led's to the list! Thanks!


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## simplicityinsound

armen: well, i dont think you NEED all the processing for sub, thogh i do like to adjust it upfront as well with a laptop. i guess it all comes down to your willingness to pay, is the cosmetic matching factor and the ability to tuen upfront all together worth the cost increase  


ttocs338: lifting the amp rack and getting to the spare is nothing even close to how to actually remove this thing from the car. that would probably require even me about 30 mins to accomplish knowing which bolts needs to cget at first and second. it certainly is no eaiser to get his out than any of my normal fake floor installs. 

Scooter: i use various kinds of LEDs - underbody kits, cathodes, flexible LED strips, dome lights ribbons, floods, spots etc etc


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## scooter99

Thank you sir! I like the one's with the connectors on the end. The "Ribbon LED Strips". Seems like it would be pretty easy to connect those together if you're close enough on each run.


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## Oliver

Keeps getting better and better 



sn95chico said:


> how does it sound





> sound quality wise, it is comparable with the other Sti i did a long time ago, images nicely good high stage, solid midbass. the BM is very nice, the bass blends effortlessly into the sound, with very above average low freq extension considering hte enclosure size and the physical attributes of the sub itself....listening to it, one would never guess its a 3.5" deep subwoofer back there...i had to dial the sub amp way down and it has output to spare!
> 
> with some more tuning, this one should be pretty darn nice


Excellent Bing !!


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## kellett007

Very Clean Install. I really like have the amps and sub are displayed....very clean.


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## Schnitz

My favourite install to date. Well frikkin done!


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## Afronaut

Great work...u r one of the best out there.


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## AAAAAAA

Now that's special, add a top of the line stereo AND make it easier to remove the spare.

Brilliant!


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## armen818

thanks for the reply.

cause i was thinking the DCrefs and ref were the same size and color and they would mach but i guess not. 

BTW if you don't want to use a laptop with the DC refs you have to use this right?? the link

DRC-SL - Zapco In dash Digital Remote Control/Programmer/Display
DRC-SL - Zapco In dash Digital Remote Control/Programmer/Display


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## TexZen

armen818 said:


> ...BTW if you don't want to use a laptop with the DC refs you have to use this right?? the link
> 
> DRC-SL - Zapco In dash Digital Remote Control/Programmer/Display
> DRC-SL - Zapco In dash Digital Remote Control/Programmer/Display


Correct. No LappyTop/computer=must use DRC-SL.


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## armen818

thx TexZen


cause i have a desktop not a laptop lol


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## rockondon

Beautiful work !!!
And that raised floor implementation was very inspiring.
Two big :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## The J

Man, I'm glad I clicked on this build. I'm looking to do a similar false floor with the same subwoofer and keeping the spare tire. Your setup is great and has given me ideas for my own, so thanks!


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## shiny_car

I really like this install. Clever design and a very robust looking amp rack, beautifully integrated into the car.

Well done. Lots of time and effort into this one.


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## Dooby357

definitely good


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## Sans Pants

Beautiful install. Wish you were closer.


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## labcoat22

simplicityinsound said:


> same goes of course, for the passenger side:
> 
> the tweeters are molded into the A pillars, pushed as far forward as possible, and aimed off axis at each other, sorry again for the lighting.


How did those tweets sound that low were there any problems with reflections?

Thanks in advance and as always very clean install.

Ry-


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## simplicityinsound

i have always preferred to do tweets in this manner, to me, espeically witht he lotus, it works well, gives a deeper stage and sometimes, depending on car, better center image, and to me, more relaxed roll off on the highs with the seas, whcih i personally like for a smoother warmer sound.

and to me at least, its always best to push the tweeters as far forward as possible, to minimize PLD and as you mention, deal with reflection better, as the further forward it is, the earlier it reflects, and the less chance it actually reflects back to the listener. a dash mat will help out even more in this case.

but overall as far as reflection goes, it realy havent been an issue with most of the cars i have done in this manner. But maybe the guys who have heard or judged my car can be a better judge of that since my own car is done exactly the same way. 

I used to be in the same school of though about having to do on axis tweeters, until maybe 5 years ago when i heard a few cars that had tweets way up front, off axis that sounded amazing, and then i started to experiment with a few setups, pre angling the tweets in various angles, and found that off axis sounded fine and in some cases, i even prefered it.

this, coupled with the fact that most of my customers dont prefer to have ugly bulge that comes with an on axis tweeter install, is the reason off axis is the way i usually do tweets.


but in the end, i suggest dont read into it too much, when it comes to your car, velcro some tweeters onto the pillars in various orientation, let your own ears decide wahts best for you.


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## labcoat22

Thanks I have a 03 WRX so I don't really have a place to position tweets out that far. and if I did it would interfere with my boost gauge pod out.

I just have never seen this and was just wonder what your theory was.

Thanks

Ry-


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## simplicityinsound

any theory of mine is really not mine  i just listen to others cars and try things on my own, and develope my opinion of things.

in the 50 or so cars i have done with off axis tweets, i cant really say reflection has been too much of an issue, compared with the dozen or so i have done a bit more on axis aimed at opposite listener 

if you have a guage pod though...that could be a different story, put the tweeter in one of hte guage pods!  and do a matching mold for the other side.


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## labcoat22

I thought about getting a RHD guage pod from Australia (MRT) or Japan and doing just that but honestly I have no desire to play with fiberglass so If I could cover up with grill cloth I might consider putting tweets in my A pillars.

Thanks for your input.

Ry-


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## vactor

damn i miss my '09 sti. i had a very similar setup. still had the spare and 4 kenwood DSP amps (2400 watts total), 2 10" subs and a 7 and tweet in the kicks. that thing positively ROCKED!!!!! nice job!!


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## simplicityinsound

i remember vactor, looked over your build before hand


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## resonance

Another great install Bing. If you are ever in cajun country, look me up.


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## wdemetrius1

I wish you were here in Atlanta.


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## seabreeze

So many wonderful accolades by your peers Bing on this build... So I wont go there, but....


My question is did this or the Lexus IS handle better in the winding roads be hind your house...

Both cars had a beautiful clean finsh to them, after your insall.

The raised floor on the STI takes the prize.


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## wdemetrius1

After looking over this tread again, this is one of my favorite installs to date. I have something similar in mind. Great job!!!


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## dakine

Very clean and classy install.


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## antnbarao

belo projeto bem top


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## joeltan

awesome job Bing! i'm bringing my '11 wrx with <100mi directly to you. check your PM


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## drocpsu

hey ...how does that sub sound in such a small box? Does it get low? That looks like it could be a great option for whenever I get around to building a system in my car.


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## simplicityinsound

joeltan said:


> awesome job Bing! i'm bringing my '11 wrx with <100mi directly to you. check your PM


lol someone on diyma thats from my college days...



as for the subbox...i think a better person to ask about its small box performance would be boostedrex


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## minibox

You never fail to impress with the ingenuity and practicality of your installs. Fantastic work!
加油!


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## bergend2

Very impressive install!


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## Ludemandan

Super clean, props as always!

What about those large screw heads that are holding the speakers in? Do you use large screw heads for any particular reason?


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## labcoat22

Bing do you have any more photos of the A pillar install?

R-


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## simplicityinsound

sorry, these are all the pics i have of this car...

as for the large pan head screws...i use them on seas lotus midbasses always becuase they have a somewhat unique open hole flange:


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## Chayse

Very nice install. I have a 2011 STi Hatch and will be looking to this install for inspiration. I have a couple of questions though. What is the mounting depth of the Seas mids, and how thick of a spacer did you fabricate? Do you think it would be possible to keep the sub under the floor if you wanted to lose the spare tire? 
I Purchased a DC ref 650.6, SI BM MKIII, and HAT L1 and L6's for my install. Wanted to run the whole system with the 650.6 and try to keep it all under the stock floor cover, or maybe a custom cover with not much additional height. I need all of the hatch space for strollers and other kid stuff.
Thanks

Fred


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## simplicityinsound

visit THE ART OF SOUND PERFECTION BY SEAS - Home for the specs on the rw165. i think its a 1/2" spacer but i think a 3/4" will work also? i cant remember hehe 

i would say for a good proper amount of power, run something more than just the 650.6, i use that amp for front stage only, 2x180 bridged for midbass, 2x100 for tweeter. add a dc 500.1 for sub.

a sub can fit in the middle if you want to loose the spare, but you will still probably end up raising the floor because the amps have to go somewhere. and no way i dont htink the dc amp can fit in the spare tire well area along side the sub


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## Chayse

Thanks for the info.
It looks like the HAT drivers are the same depth as the Seas, 76-77mm.
I have the equipment on its way, but since it is really cold here in the Northeast, I won't be getting to the install anytime soon. I'll have time to look for a 500.1 and see if I can figure out how to mount both amps.

Thanks

Fred


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## bikerider

Bing - what's holding the beauty panel and the grill panel to the amp rack? Just curious how it all stays in place when you lift everything up.


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## simplicityinsound

look closely at the picture of the floor and you can sorta see where four screws went into the support attached to the rack itself, i put a flush mount bit on it, put the screw in, and then take a little screw and fuzz the carpet so a bit of it stretches over the screw.


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## tc5130

Awesome build!


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## tc5130

Awesome build!


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## m0sdef

This is such a sweet build!


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## Darkwhip

Nice car. Nice build. Wish my trunk looked half that good.


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## Electrodynamic

This install turned out incredible! Very nice work Bing. Thanks for providing me the link to this so I could see your work.


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## hobie1dog

You da man. Looks like you picked the giant sleeper of shallow subs too.


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## CaptainTaco

Man do I wish you were closer... I have a 2011 STI hatch and this is exactly what I was looking for... Way to be on the exact opposite side of the country! :laugh: 

In all seriousness though, I would love to attempt this, but I think without professional assistance I would be digging my own grave, and I can't quite justify driving from RI to CA to get an install done haha, I just don't trust any of the installers I have seen around here lol. Ah well. Nice install.


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## kenikh

Very inspiring - my Forester install is happening 2 weeks from Saturday. I haven't done a full build out on a car since high school (1992) so can't wait. I LOVE the tweeter placement - you convinced me!


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## steffanan

You are just magic at this stuff. the creativity that it takes to think this up and do it... insane.


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## simplicityinsound

captaintaco, there should be plenty of awesome installers in new england, some i really look up to...ask around  they do stuff that make mine look like childs play. sound in motion and advanced audio designs are two i can think of in MA...


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## subiemax

Chayse said:


> Thanks for the info.
> It looks like the HAT drivers are the same depth as the Seas, 76-77mm.
> I have the equipment on its way, but since it is really cold here in the Northeast, I won't be getting to the install anytime soon. I'll have time to look for a 500.1 and see if I can figure out how to mount both amps.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Fred


Don't know bow big your amps are, but there is a good bit of room under the seats.


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## Chayse

The Zapco DC ref amps are not very big front to back, but left to right they are pretty big. Especially the 650.6 I have. I also have a 360.4 like Bing used in this build. That is too wide to go under the seat as well.


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## jmvar

Great install as usual.

Do you have any pictures of how the center cover with integrated grill was made?


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

Bing... For the love of GOD... nice work as usual man... lol.. 

You need to post this on NASIOC..


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## simplicityinsound

dang, just saw this?  can you do me a favor and link it over there? hehe too busy getting my butt whopped by this new Sti SEDAN...


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## Bluenote

Bing, this has to be your most notable install for 2010 - seriously, it resurrects in the forum almost on a weekly basis. Pure Excellence!


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## labcoat22

I keep looking at how you did the tweets and it makes me think...

Its tempting me

R-


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## wapam

I know this is an old thread but I am considering mounting an amp under the floor of my 2011 WRX hatch and this thread was recommended as a reference.

Install looks beautiful but I have to wonder how all of those amps breath. I don't see much air flow around them and with the floor mat on top of them I can't see how they would run for any amount of time without shutting off.

What am I missing??

Thank you.


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## tr0y_audi0

Hey man,
Nice job as always!
keep it up.


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## simplicityinsound

wapam said:


> I know this is an old thread but I am considering mounting an amp under the floor of my 2011 WRX hatch and this thread was recommended as a reference.
> 
> Install looks beautiful but I have to wonder how all of those amps breath. I don't see much air flow around them and with the floor mat on top of them I can't see how they would run for any amount of time without shutting off.
> 
> What am I missing??
> 
> Thank you.


the dc amps are fan cooled, exposure of heatsink isnt that big of a deal. and all these amps are modded with an additional fan or two per amp  the amp rack's sides are not enclosured, so there is a circulation of air below the floor 

also the top cover is breathable, allowing hot air to escape.

a lot depends on the type of gear you will be using.


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## deraeler

Damn, nice job. I was looking for this exact job over a year ago, I don't know how I missed it / couldn't find it. I ended up doing a raised install, still stealthy to some degree, and I retained the spare. I'll post mine shortly, not as sweet as yours, but who knows, I may give something like this a go. Love to have that cabin space back. Beautiful design man, big props for thinking it through and coming up with such an elegant solution.


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## ae0859

Amazed with the quality of this install. CLEAN


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## airseeker

So I was thinking to myself while lurking this thread.. what an amazing flush panel... then noticed it actuated up... I swear I almost pooped... badass sir, badass.


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## simplicityinsound

well its not actuated  i thought about it but i the end went with the much simpler and fail-safe telescoping prop


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## ek9cv5

Wow very nice and stealthy


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## Fotoshark

Very well built I love what you did with your install  Very clean. Answered some questions of mine as I'm runnin the same issue with my hatch lol

- T.


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## Palos

Bing, so nice to have found this. This is exactly what I want to do in my 93 Civic Hatchback, retain the spare, and have easy access to it, hide everything and keep it OEM looking. How much extra weight do you estimate it to be? Have you worked on any 92-95 Civic hatchbacks and done a build similar to this? My build will be using a pair of Rockford Fosgate 8" HX2's, a Punch 400.4 and a Power 500a2. The recommend air space for a sealed enclosure is 0.3 cubic ft, and vented is 0.625 cubic ft. What's your recommendations?


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## southpawskater

Hey Bing, how did you attach the carpeted trip piece onto the carbon vinyl trim piece?


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