# My BMW 325i install - lots of pics!



## turbotuli (Jan 30, 2008)

Hey all,
Been meaning to make an install thread and post the progress as it happens, but I'm a slacker. This is a work in progress, but I have all the equipment I plan on using in my possession...for now 
Since I decided to install a system in the car, I have:
1) Upgraded my head unit to something with much better SQ and processing
2) "Downgraded" my front stage - previously had a set of $400+ DLS UP36 3-ways. Going with a 2-way allowed me to go active and saved me some cash
3) Used 4 different amps for the front stage and 2 for the sub
4) Had about 10 different ideas for the sub, including 2 eD 7kv.2s in sealed enclosures firing through the rear deck. I even built one of the boxes for that idea before scrapping it!

Car is a 95 BMW 325i sedan
Head unit - Pioneer DEH-P880-PRS
Front Stage - Phoenix Gold RSD65cs components ran actively
Tweeter amp - internal head unit amp at the moment
Mid amp - Cerwin Vega EXL350.2
Subwoofer - Elemental Designs 13Ov.2
Sub amp - PDX 1.600
Upgrades - PDX 4.150 amp for front stage. I've also got some CDT CL61a tweeters I may try out...
On to the pics:
Head unit
















Tweeters in factory location. I know they don't exactly blend in...Haven't decided what to do about that yet. I will probably mount them in the stock grilles, but they don't just press in like the previous DLS tweeters...








You can see the mid tucked way down in the kick in this pic








Driver's side kick deadened








Drivers side mid. That's the hood release mechanism I'm holding in place. It's not screwed down right now, but there is enough clearance, barely...








Passenger side mid. You can see at the top center there is a gap where a mess of wiring passes through. Obviously, this prevents me from sealing the backwaves from the front. Also haven't figured out how to get around this. As is, midbass response is pretty damn good...








It ain't pretty and if I were to do it again, I would definitely change my cuts, but it works. Screws and liquid nails to hold it together!








Seat backs with ski-pass where it's going to be mounted. I deadened the two inside ridges and inward, but didn't get pics. I also deadended the entire other side and the wheel wells.








Enclosure, 3/4" MDF spacer, and 1/2" MDF baffle. The 1/2" baffle was screwed to the ski-pass and sealed with foam strips. The top and bottom were sealed with expanding foam.








I autocross this car, so I will be removing the sub for track days. The idea I came up with to do this repeatedly was to install t-nuts in the 3/4" MDF spacer and glue it to the enclosure. Then drill through the seat backs and the 1/2" baffle and use bolts to hold the enclosure in place.
T-nuts in the 3/4" spacer








Clamps+Liquid Nails








I used the same template I used for the baffle on the spacer, which is why it's such a wierd offset shape. It turns out, the t-nuts don't line up with the holes I drilled in the seat back, so I ended up having to just use standard drywall screws to hold it in place for now. I plan on re-doing this in the future and I will make the spacer a complete face for the enclosure, the sub being recessed. Does anyone know if I'll be able to pry to current spacer off, so i don't have to completely redo my enclosure?








Sub installed








Continued on next post due to excessive pics!


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## turbotuli (Jan 30, 2008)

Here you can see the expanding foam. I used Great Stuff. Comes in a red can, they sell it at Home Depot. Worked very well.








Hidden. That flap doesn't look so gross in person  During heavy bass, I can hear the leather flapping, so I plan on replacing it with some grille clothe.








Battery in the trunk. How lucky!








View from the rear. Temporary amp rack on the left.








Previous sub amp eD NINe.2 on top. EXL350.2 below. The PDX 1.600 is mounted on top now, but I haven't decided on a final mounting method when I put the 4.150 in too.








And a pic of the car itself 









So far, I am quite happy with the all of the components of the system. I'm excited to get the PDX 4.150 installed as the last piece! Here's my remaining to do list:
1) Install PDX 4.150. This will entail finding a final mounting position for the amps. My original idea was to mount them on the driver's side where they currently are, either side by side or stacked and make a beauty panel to cover them, but now I am thinking about getting a factory cd changer bracket, which attaches right above the battery.. I would need to attach a piece of MDF to it and mount the amps to that. We will see...
2) Redo the sub enclosure face/spacer with t-nuts that line up with the holes.
3) Carpet or paint sub enclosure. Probably carpet since the edges aren't exactly flush...
4) Clean up wiring and re-install miscellaneous trim pieces
5) Maybe do some more deadening...

Let me know what you guys think!


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## brendan 67 (Mar 12, 2007)

Thats looking pretty nice actually.Be even better when you complete your to do list.Those PDXs have alot of cool mounting possibilities.Keep posting your updates.


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## ron2002si (Dec 4, 2007)

I love those E36's! Paint that front bumper and its money!


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## turbotuli (Jan 30, 2008)

> Thats looking pretty nice actually.Be even better when you complete your to do list.Those PDXs have alot of cool mounting possibilities.Keep posting your updates.


Thanks! I'll definitely keep the pics coming.


> I love those E36's! Paint that front bumper and its money!


Word, the grey annoys me too! I'd like to get an M3 front bumper or a front lip to give it a little more agressive look


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## ron2002si (Dec 4, 2007)

turbotuli said:


> Word, the grey annoys me too! I'd like to get an M3 front bumper or a front lip to give it a little more agressive look


Would look sick with a lip! But just painting it will change the looks! I had a 318ti (hatchback) that had the grey all around that I put the M3 front bumper and the same rims (well not the same mine were replicas with bmw center caps "yours look real"). I love the system! ED's ftmfw!


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

turbotuli said:


> Passenger side mid. You can see at the top center there is a gap where a mess of wiring passes through. Obviously, this prevents me from sealing the backwaves from the front. Also haven't figured out how to get around this. As is, midbass response is pretty damn good...


Polyfill. stuff as much as you can cram into the hole there. you should be able to fit a huge amount. it helps.

-Steve


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## gregal (Apr 18, 2008)

Very nice


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## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

turbotuli said:


> You can see at the top center there is a gap where a mess of wiring passes through. Obviously, this prevents me from sealing the backwaves from the front. Also haven't figured out how to get around this. As is, midbass response is pretty damn good...



You could try some modeling clay to fill the hole. Use the stuff that doesn't dry out. The clay and polyfill will help alot.


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## turbotuli (Jan 30, 2008)

Thanks for the compliments/suggestions guys. I thought about the modeling clay, but I'd still have to bridge the gap somehow...This is what I'm working with - wiring runs through the top part:


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## suareezay (Jun 28, 2007)

great install.


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## bmwpowere36m3 (Mar 20, 2008)

turbotuli said:


> Thanks for the compliments/suggestions guys. I thought about the modeling clay, but I'd still have to bridge the gap somehow...This is what I'm working with - wiring runs through the top part:


I was also scratching my brain on how to do that on my car (e36 m3). I was thinking on making a small square/rectangular piece of sheet metal on riveting across the gap, of coarse leaving enough room above it for the wires to pass thru.

I took the liberty to "modify" your original drawing, something like this. Where the gray piece is just a rectangular piece of sheet metal with maybe some sealant on the backside and then riveted/screwed down to the face to "complete" the circle. Yet it still allows the wires to pass at the top (yellow). I believe that no matter what, those wires are pretty much stuck there. Then maybe some clay, polyfill, etc.. to tightly "seal" the wires.


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## bmwpowere36m3 (Mar 20, 2008)

This is what I ended up making:



















my build: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37703


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## ///M Kevin (May 8, 2008)

Very nice.


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## mda185 (Dec 14, 2006)

I had similar issue with kick panel install on my E34. There are wires coming through the metal kick panel near the edge of the speaker cut out circle. I can't tear mine apart to take a pic but will attempt to describe what I did. I cut a 3" piece of garden hose to act as a shield for the wires. I slit the garden hose allowing me to slip it over the wire bundle. I put about 1/4" layer of silicone sealant on inside of garden hose before slipping it over the wires. This was a bit messy but helps to seal the wire bundle to the hose. I slid the hose in to the kick panel cavity until only 1/2" was sticking out from the metal kick panel. This keeps it from hitting my plastic kick panel cover. I squirted additional silicone sealant into the garden hose end and then used tie wraps to clamp the garden hose tightly. I then cut a piece of metal similar to what you did to cover the gap in the speaker cut out circle and used black butyl windshield sealant to fill the gap between the garden hose and the metal kick panel. I hope this all makes sense. You are already half way there with the piece you cut to fill part of the gap.

Mark
95 E34 525iT w/S52 5 spd conversion
97 E36 328iC w/S52 conversion
92 Celica All Trac Turbo


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## ianbiz (May 13, 2008)

Very nice. If you want to make teh rear ski pass look better. Take out the seat and dremel along the indentations there (we did this in my buddy's E36M sedan). 
Im on BF.c too, I'm a Z4er.


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## circa40 (Jan 20, 2008)

How about wrapping some foam around the harness? This will help seal the MB. Its probably not perfect but better then nothing


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