# Carbon fibre anyone?



## jimsan (Oct 3, 2008)

Has anyone here worked with carbon fibre for amp racks or speaker pods?

Brought some 2x2 twill and would like to cover up a few interior trimmings. Considering to cover some parts of the amp rack or pods.

I was told only to use UV resistant resin but does anyone have a link or advice on the best way to use CF?

Much appreicated.

Jim


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## whatzzap (Jun 16, 2006)

http://www.audiogroupforum.com/csforum/showthread.php?t=66958 here you go jim


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## GreekPower (Mar 18, 2007)

marking this for myself


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## jimsan (Oct 3, 2008)

Oh seen this but its general and doesnt talk abou the mix ratio and such.

Thanks anyway...have bookmarked for later.

J


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## Dmack (Mar 6, 2008)

You use the mix ratio of whatever epoxy resin you are using. I have used some that mix 1.5-1 and some 1-1. 

As fav as UV resins go, I don't use it. Instead, I use an automotive clear on the finished product. 

Here are some of the CF parts that I have done. 
On these door panels, I did the arm-rests, and the mid and woofer pods. 








Here are some close ups of the pods for the mids. 
















This is a IB baffle that is suspended under the rear deck of an M3


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## Dmack (Mar 6, 2008)

Door on the car








amprack and sub baffle again








This is the back of the amp rack


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## lyttleviet (Sep 11, 2008)

How do you make it take those shapes? Vacuum setup I assume?


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## Dmack (Mar 6, 2008)

I vac form some parts, but mainly only when I am laying Texalium. The light weight 2x2 lays down really well with just applying a tack coat of resin.


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## jimsan (Oct 3, 2008)

Hi

So with the 2x2 twill you just mix accordingly then apply down on a tact layer of resin. Do you apply any resin on top to sand down to flat finish then clear coat over?

Thanks

J



Dmack said:


> I vac form some parts, but mainly only when I am laying Texalium. The light weight 2x2 lays down really well with just applying a tack coat of resin.


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

You will have to block sand the resin before it is smooth. And will probably have to put 3 or 4 coats of resin down after than and then block sand it. Then finish it as you would a painted panel.

I would suggest the surfboard resin from US Composites since you can sand and buff the piece.

How much experience do you have with composites and automotive body work?


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## Dmack (Mar 6, 2008)

What he said. The first coat may not even hide the texture of the fiber. when that coat gets dry to the touch, you need to go with another coat and let it completely cure. Then sand it with 600 to try to get some of the bad spots out, but being sure not to sand through to the fiber. then you coat sand and repeat until is is smooth, then apply clear.


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## jimsan (Oct 3, 2008)

Thanks guys for the replies.

Should the resin but the surfboard type or can I just use normal run of the mill stuff? I worry with the normal resin it has a tint of purple which may give a stain or not bring out the best from the CF pattern.

So it should be surfboard resin from base to building up layers on top of CF. Then finally sand down until smooth and give it a coat of clear coat?

I've only worked with simple fibre glass and resin for A pillars builds so this CF will be my first time. 

Any pics for wrapping around corners and how to get the best edges? Should one try to attempt to stick the whole piece of CF over the area or do it main area then edges? I'm trying to CF over the interior trim of my A4.

J



Dmack said:


> What he said. The first coat may not even hide the texture of the fiber. when that coat gets dry to the touch, you need to go with another coat and let it completely cure. Then sand it with 600 to try to get some of the bad spots out, but being sure not to sand through to the fiber. then you coat sand and repeat until is is smooth, then apply clear.


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## bretti_kivi (Dec 3, 2007)

... there's a really good tutorial on wrapping over on talkaudio.co.uk....


Bret


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

For the lazy people 

http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?p=2615129#post2615129


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## jimsan (Oct 3, 2008)

Hi

Been busy at work but found some time to work on the CF overlay.

I encountered a problem where one of the pieces has a high spot from the CF not sticking down firmly on the surface. It only has one coat of resin on top so I can still push it down if I can soak resin from behind. Thinking of drilling a small hole for the resin then apply pressure from other side to stick down the high spot. Do you guys think this will work???

Question. 

Is it possible to sand down the resin then apply another coat on top? I was told if one sands down the resin and applies another coat on top the scratches will show through? 

Thanks

J



thehatedguy said:


> You will have to block sand the resin before it is smooth. And will probably have to put 3 or 4 coats of resin down after than and then block sand it. Then finish it as you would a painted panel.
> 
> I would suggest the surfboard resin from US Composites since you can sand and buff the piece.
> 
> How much experience do you have with composites and automotive body work?


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## 4life (Mar 30, 2008)

jimsan said:


> Hi
> 
> Been busy at work but found some time to work on the CF overlay.
> 
> ...


I dont have an answer to your question and I havent done CF overlays before but i plan on doing it soon. I have a question for the experts in relation to your issue. Would vacuum bagging the overlay prevent the issue of highspots and also make it smoother at the same time?

Thanks,


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## jimsan (Oct 3, 2008)

I think you should stick with the overlay then once you have mastered the skills go on to vacuum bagging. You need a lot more supplies and a pump for vacuum bagging which will cost more to start this hobby.

I've managed to coat the parts with enough resin so will start sanding this week. Been busy with work so not had too much spare time to work on them. Now driving my car without lots of trim missing! haha

A few pointers when u start your overlaying work.

1) Use disposable plastic cups to mix.
2) Use a good quality brush x2. One to use whilst other is in brush cleaner. 
3) Wear surgical gloves as I found they dont leave any residue. If you touch the resin with your bare skin...dead skin cells will stick and show up!
4) Only mix enough to work with and dont try to do too many pieces in one go. I found working with 1-2 pieces best.
5) Start on a small flat piece first to get use to the resin and CF weave.
6) Trim the CF once its semi dry to avoid cutting/sanding once cured. I have learned the hard way as I was worried about moving the CF weave and didnt cut. I must now dremel all the excess CF off and sanding....long nites ahead.

Enjoy

J



4life said:


> I dont have an answer to your question and I havent done CF overlays before but i plan on doing it soon. I have a question for the experts in relation to your issue. Would vacuum bagging the overlay prevent the issue of highspots and also make it smoother at the same time?
> 
> Thanks,


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## jimsan (Oct 3, 2008)

Had some spare time and most of the trims have been finished. I didnt manage to get the door trims as smooth as I wanted. Maybe I needed more layers of resin before sanding down. I already put down like 3-4 layers but stil not enough to get it flat as a pancake.

When you guys clear coat the sanded resin do you spray or brush on? I've sprayed a few of the pieces but they came out rather dull looking. Will sand off the clear coat and start again.

Any tips for spray on clear coat? How many coats, distance and ways to avoid air bubbles.

Thanks!

J


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## faiz23 (Jan 29, 2009)

bump


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## orangelss (Dec 20, 2008)

How do you keep it from kinking on tight compound corners?


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## Dmack (Mar 6, 2008)

orangelss said:


> How do you keep it from kinking on tight compound corners?


The weave pattern of the CF allows it to distort—obviously. You have to use this to your advantage when doing overlays without bagging. 

The first thing that comes to mind that would cause kinks is if you try to wrap the CF around the edge of the part—like you would if you were covering with vinyl or carpet. This is not the best thing to do. I guess there would be a tendency to do this to ensure that the CF did not lift on the top side. However, if the CF is lifting, you did not let your tack coat dry long enough. You just need to press your CF into the tight corners and let the tack coat do its thing. Then, do not tuck the fabric around the back side. When you are letting the tack coat cure fully, place the part on something where the fabric is allow to hang free on all sides of the part. Think of this as placing the part on some sort of pedestal—and upside down mixing cup works pretty well in cases of larger parts. 

As the tack coat is curing, come by and make sure that the fabric is not lifting anywhere, and if it is, press it back down. When dry, you should have the result you ant and be ready to start laying finish coats.


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## jdraughn (Feb 28, 2009)

This is the by far the best carbon fiber tutorial I have ever seen. Grab yourself a beer and be ready for an hours worth of 3 tutorials. It even touches on making a fiberglass mold to use in vacuum bagging.

Carbon Fiber Basics


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## Turtl3Sh3ll (May 3, 2012)

whatzzap said:


> BERYLLIUM BMW 323ci. - CARSOUND.COM Forum here you go jim


gorgeous build!


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## [email protected] (May 18, 2012)

whatzzap said:


> BERYLLIUM BMW 323ci. - CARSOUND.COM Forum here you go jim


One of the cleanest installs i've seen to this day.


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## childersbros (Jan 12, 2012)

wow that car is amazing


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## stylngle2003 (Nov 2, 2012)

holy hell. nice work Dmack. The surface finish on your cf parts is very envious.

The belgian bimmer thread is so over the top, but it is awesome what people do with tons of talent and disposable income :laugh:


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## cobraa (Dec 4, 2009)

subbcrisped!


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## SHAGGS (Apr 24, 2011)

Man-O-man!
So I was thinking ahead the other day. My ****ty Bose CD player/changer finally gave up the goat, so sometime this spring I'm going to have to start a build plan, and get a new HU. Looking at my dash ('05 Maxima) I'd really like to rearrange the dash alittle. The only hitch is the console top, gauge bezel, door inserts, and dash center, are the faux brushed aluminum look, so they would need a repaint. Car is black, only grill is chrome, and the interior is all black leather, except the BA parts. I originally figured on silver, but randomly thought it might look cool all black.

So just as a time killer, I looked for tutorials and tips, for cosmetically covering my dash/console with CF. I'm not a huge fan of CF, and have never worked with it, but I thought what the hell.

I stumble on this thread, and the subsequent link to the BMW build thread. Holy ****! That guy is crazy! 

I'm a machinist by trade, and I couldn't imagine making that many alum. parts without my trusty vertical CNC mill. Getting past that, the level of detail is amazing. The temp. cover for the rear bumper, the sub enclosure, the dust covers, the hood louvers, the original amp rack for the PPI that got torn apart, to make room for some HD's, the crossover rack, the motorized pass-though "eye", and the use of polished copper rod, in lieu of speaker wire, looks absolutely phenomenal! 

No disrespect to the wonderful build threads I've seen, but that is the most impressive build/write-up, I have ever read.

4 hours well spent, for whoever may see the link.


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## nervewrecker (Oct 5, 2009)

I know this is an old thread but I want to attempt to build an engine cover for my car. Car has a plastic one, how much layers of cloth should I be looking at?


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

Enough to make it stable and not warp. I would also use some resin that is rated for a higher temp like a tooling or vinyl ester resin.

Which cloth, fiberglass or CF? I would do it in fiberglass and then CF on top.

How big is the cover you are talking about making?


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## nervewrecker (Oct 5, 2009)

I only worked with they poly so far, havent tried the epoxy as yet. From what I have read the poly is harder to work with so working with epoxy should be easier. I guess i'll have to do some research on working with vinyl ester or tooling resin before I attempt this.
The engine cover looked easiest to experiment with. I wanted to try some of the plastic trims in the car.

The cloth I had in mind was the carbon fiber kevlar from this site: 
Carbon fibre cloth, carbon fiber cloth, carbon fiber fabric - Carbon Mods
The kevlar should be out of the sunlight since it will be in the engine bay. What has me a tad bit worried is the in car trims. Will the resin coating that its under protect it from damage?

For the engine cover I was thinking of making a poly mold of it then lay a resin coat before the cloth. Probably two layers.
saw one of the youtube vids a guy had some trouble stretching the cloth inside the mould. If I cut the corners and lap it, will it show? 

Sorry if it seems like i'm asking a lot,I like to DIY and keep myself occupied (keeps me out of trouble). 

Thanks, Lyn.


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## bfree (Feb 8, 2013)

Yes you'll be able to see cuts - try not to whenever possible. Start from the deepest point of any contours and work outwards.

What's your worry about UV damage? These components aren't structural anyways (which is why there is no point of CF vs. dyed fiberglass, IMO). UV rays won't hurt the fibers, but it will give the resin a yellow tint.


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