# Audison Bit One- A Most Worthwhile Addition to my Signal Path.



## Buzzman

My Audison Bit One was installed on February 6 by my trusty guys at Auto Essentials in Thousand Oaks, CA. The main unit is mounted in my trunk, close to the amplifiers. The DRC controller is mounted in the center console of my dash, below my head unit. My excitement soon turned to anguish when I sat down that evening with my laptop to begin “tuning” my system for the drive from LA to Las Vegas where I was about to be married two days later. Well, I discovered that my “new” Bit One was not new after all as it did not have the updated software and firmware.  Well, I grabbed my BlackBerry and called Larry Fredericks of Elettromedia USA. As always, he proceeded to give me the best possible customer service one can imagine. Larry, who is the ultimate techie (I think he would date a computer if he could) :laugh: and a music lover, proceeded to give me a thorough primer on the Bit One, sent me by email all the software and firmware updates ( I thought my hard drive would collapse), and provided detailed instructions to get my Bit One working properly. The future Mrs. Buzzman was NOT happy that I would be sitting down in the car for several hours trying to get this thing working, and possibly delaying our departure to Vegas. Larry told me it would be a frustrating and lengthy experience, but he was being kind. It was a royal pain in the ASS!!  Next morning I am on the way to Las Vegas with the future Mrs. Buzzman and the only music I had in my car was the sound of her voice. :argue: (Just Kidding.) No Miles Davis, no Donald Fagen.  But that Larry, what a great guy; he called me about 6 times to see how things were going. Well, we returned from Vegas that Monday, still no tunes, but now married. :thumbsup: The guys at Elettromedia USA felt really bad. Not as bad as I did, but really bad nonetheless. They were going to send me a new (newer?) unit, when my desire to conquer this technological nightmare finally was fulfilled. I am now rewarded with the ultimate in tuning flexibility, along with sonic bliss. 

*The System Front End: Clarion DRZ9255*: While the DRZ offers a tremendous amount of tuning capability for a head unit, it is no match for the Bit One. The Bit One offers 8 output channels, each of which can be muted separately, allows you to EQ, set output levels and phase for EACH CHANNEL separately, allows you to set DSP choices for 4 different listening positions; offers choices between Linkwitz and Butterworth crossover filters, and offers crossover slopes from 6db to 48db! _Holy tuning capability Batman._ I was truly excited that the Bit One had a digital input and the DRZ had a digital output. I figured I could run a full optical digital signal between the DRZ and the Bit One, with the principal benefit being a dramatic reduction in noise, which was a problem when I had the DRZ connected to my PPI DCX730, which the Bit One replaced. Well, I learned that the DRZ has an optical digital output connector that is proprietary to Clarion, and would require modification on the input end (to the Bit One) with a Toslink connector in order to work properly. The Clarion cable had to be ordered from Clarion’s West Coast distributor and would take about three weeks to arrive, plus it wasn’t cheap ($90). I was also concerned about whether I would be sacrificing the sonic virtues of the DRZ by going digital out since I would be bypassing the onboard DAC of the DRZ and its high quality analog outputs. The decision was made easy when I also learned that I needed an analog input to the Bit One from the DRZ anyway in order to set up the Bit One. So, since I could not wait any longer to get the tunes going in my car, I went analog only out. NO noise issues, and a MUCH lower noise floor than the PPI processor. :rimshot:

*Listening Impressions:* Musically and sonically, the Bit One blows away the PPI processor. The PPI piece has a noticeably solid state edge in comparison with the Bit One. There is less glare and bite on voices and brass instruments with the Bit One. In comparison to the PPI processor, the Bit One sounds rather tube like in the midrange and treble, with a "roundness," depth and tonal quality which I prefer and would characterize as more "natural." The Bit One produces tight and punchy bass, but with body and real dimensionality; more like the real thing. The Bit One’s noise floor is so much lower than the PPI processor’s it’s almost eerie. I hear more low level detail and information. I like to listen for those low level details and ambience cues in the recording venue that come through in high resolution systems – the cork on the champagne bottle popping about 3 minutes into Bill Evans’s performance of “Waltz for Debby” from his “Live at The Village Vanguard” recording for example; the creaking of the pedal on the piano being played by Michel Petrucianni on his “Live in Tokyo” recording. These nuances are more noticeable with the Bit One. With the Bit One, I am able to hear for the first time the sonic differences between Butterworth and Linkwitz Riley filters. I can now better discern phase differences between speakers. The Bit One, to me, is a much more electronically precise and musical component. 

After a week and a half of critical listening, I decided to reinstall my Tru Technology SSLD6 line driver between the DRZ and the Bit One. I had this unit between the DRZ and the PPI processor, and it only exacerbated the noise issues – louder turn on thumps, pops between tracks. You may ask why I need a line driver with the DRZ. Well, with music, the DRZ does not put out anywhere near its rated 4 volt output before clipping. It puts out about 1 volt!  This has been confirmed by techs at two different amp manufacturers, and I confirmed this myself while using the PPI processor. I had its input sensitivity set for a maximum 1 volt input and with the most dynamic music I have, the PPI processor didn’t clip until the DRZ showed -10 on the volume display, which is about 90% of the way up. So, I put the Tru line driver back in (one pair of RCA’s from the DRZ to the Tru piece, and one pair of RCA’s out to the Bit One), and recalibrated the input sensitivity of the Bit One. The result: Sonic Bliss. No noise issues, greater dynamic range, more transparency and better low level resolution. 

*User Impressions: * The Bit One is a classy looking piece. One might say that it’s befitting its Italian heritage. The DRC controller fits beautifully in the customized center console of my dash, and has a rich look to it which fits with a luxury vehicle. The Bit One, as noted, offers tremendous tuning flexibility. Its only drawback is the need to use a laptop every time you want to change DSP settings or output levels of individual channels. There have been a couple of occasions when the Bit One and my lap top did not synchronize immediately, but a quick reboot usually solves that. I haven’t yet mastered every nuance of the Bit One, but it’s not leaving my car anytime in the foreseeable future. 

*Highly Recommended*. :thumbsup:


----------



## Coheednme13

Very nice review, much appreciated. The only part I was unclear about was why you got married.  J/K


----------



## Buzzman

Coheednme13 said:


> Very nice review, much appreciated. The only part I was unclear about was why you got married.  J/K


:laugh: She is a hell of a woman, and let's me indulge in my car audio obsession.


----------



## thbugman

You have me buzzing even more!! I'm waiting on my BitOne as we speak! Should be here soon.......


----------



## Buzzman

thbugman said:


> You have me buzzing even more!! I'm waiting on my BitOne as we speak! Should be here soon.......


Glad to hear it. Give it a strong input signal (the Bit One does NOT act as a line driver), and you will be amply rewarded. 

One thing I did not mention in my review is that although you can only choose from 4 memory settings at any one time through the DRC controller, the Bit One allows you to store innumerable settings which you can load into the 4 memory settings through your laptop at any time. It is CRITICAL that a setting be "saved" and then "finalized" to the Bit One. The memory setting options are labeled A, B, C, and D, and I recommend storing each setting you wish to keep and naming it as A 1, A2, B1, B2, etc. depending on which memory setting is engaged. The Bit One seems sensitive to this. When I have had Memory B engaged and tried loading a setting saved through Memory A, it defaults to the factory setting.  

The Manual is very well written, and makes an otherwise complex process much easier.

Enjoy!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

My Bit one is sitting on the launching pad. I am going outside now to run the RCA's to the HU. Not sure if I will get sound today due to other mods I am doing to the HU before powering up....but its on the horizon at least.

Thanks for your review.


----------



## t3sn4f2

Buzzman said:


> After a week and a half of critical listening, I decided to reinstall my Tru Technology SSLD6 line driver between the DRZ and the Bit One. I had this unit between the DRZ and the PPI processor, and it only exacerbated the noise issues – louder turn on thumps, pops between tracks. You may ask why I need a line driver with the DRZ. Well, with music, the DRZ does not put out anywhere near its rated 4 volt output before clipping. It puts out about 1 volt!  This has been confirmed by techs at two different amp manufacturers, and I confirmed this myself while using the PPI processor. *I had its input sensitivity set for a maximum 1 volt input and with the most dynamic music I have, the PPI processor didn’t clip until the DRZ showed -10 on the volume display, which is about 90% of the way up.* So, I put the Tru line driver back in (one pair of RCA’s from the DRZ to the Tru piece, and one pair of RCA’s out to the Bit One), and recalibrated the input sensitivity of the Bit One. The result: Sonic Bliss. No noise issues, greater dynamic range, more transparency and better low level resolution.


. The jump in voltage from 90% to 0db (4 volt rating) can be 1 to 4 volts. I don't understand how you came to the conclusion that the techs where correct about the voltage being over rated by this experiment.

Volume scales are logarithmic so they are shallow for most of the range and then shoot up, easily 1-4 volts on the last 10%.

Like this or even more aggressive at the top of the range.










I find it hard to believe one of the best head units out there is that over rated on preamp output. It's likely that the 4 volt rating is MAX the way the 8 volt is instead of RMS and that there is some left over for EQ boosting and sub out but I can't see it being only 1 volt out at +8dB.


----------



## Buzzman

t3sn4f2 said:


> . The jump in voltage from 90% to 0db (4 volt rating) can be 1 to 4 volts. I don't understand how you came to the conclusion that the techs where correct about the voltage being over rated by this experiment.
> 
> Volume scales are logarithmic so they are shallow for most of the range and then shoot up, easily 1-4 volts on the last 10%.
> 
> Like this or even more aggressive at the top of the range.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find it hard to believe one of the best head units out there is that over rated on preamp output. It's likely that the 4 volt rating is MAX the way the 8 volt is instead of RMS and that there is some left over for EQ boosting and sub out but I can't see it being only 1 volt out at +8dB.


First, note that I said with "music," not with a test tone at a specified frequency, which is how these components get rated. However, we listen to music (which at any moment in time covers multiple frequencies with varying amplitude), not test tones. Clarion claims the 4Volt rating is before "clipping." In my case, yes it was an experiment, but the conclusions I reached were, in my opinion, valid. My PPI processor would show a clipped input signal from the DRZ at the same output level on the DRZ if I set the PPI's input sensitivity at less than 1 Volt. Also, I have turned the gain up on my Tru line driver all the way, with the DRZ set at -15, and the Tru multiplies the input voltage by a factor of 4, I believe. No indication of a clipped signal on the Bit One, which I would expect to be the case if the DRZ were putting out 4 Volts. Now, it's always possible I have a defective DRZ. But, I am not inclined to remove it from my install and send it off for testing. Finally, the techs I referred to (at Arc Audio and Tru Tech) put the DRZ and other high end head units (including the Alpine F1 Status) on a bench for testing, and reached their conclusions, which in every case was less than the rated output voltage, according to them.


----------



## t3sn4f2

Buzzman said:


> First, note that I said with "music," not with a test tone at a specified frequency, which is how these components get rated. However, we listen to music (which at any moment in time covers multiple frequencies with varying amplitude), not test tones. Clarion claims the 4Volt rating is before "clipping." In my case, yes it was an experiment, but the conclusions I reached were, in my opinion, valid. My PPI processor would show a clipped input signal from the DRZ at the same output level on the DRZ if I set the PPI's input sensitivity at less than 1 Volt. Also, I have turned the gain up on my Tru line driver all the way, with the DRZ set at -15, and the Tru multiplies the input voltage by a factor of 4, I believe. No indication of a clipped signal on the Bit One, which I would expect to be the case if the DRZ were putting out 4 Volts. Now, it's always possible I have a defective DRZ. But, I am not inclined to remove it from my install and send it off for testing. Finally, the techs I referred to (at Arc Audio and Tru Tech) put the DRZ and other high end head units (including the Alpine F1 Status) on a bench for testing, and reached their conclusions, which in every case was less than the rated output voltage, according to them.


1. Music will hit the max output of the head unit that same way a 0dB tone would, unless you are listening to a 1970's track.

2. I think you are confusing a clipped output with a input that is clipping. Your PPI and Bit One does not _show a clipped input signal_. It only tells you when a signal clips its inputs. Clean, dirty, since wave music beat, anything. As long as its strong enough.

The only reason you would need a line driver in your case is to have available volume gain on the headunit for low recordings.


----------



## t3sn4f2

They also claim 8 volt max (peak) which should be 2.8 volts rms when the head unit is set to +8db.

That means the 4 volt claim is peak also since if you subtract 6 db from the 8 volts peak figure you get 4 volts peak or 1.4 volts rms at 0db head unit setting.

So you can say that the DRZ has a maximum clean preamp output of 2.8 volts rms.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Congrats on the Marriage.

My Bit One will be in my hands next week also.  

So you must first have a Analog input to do the initial setup Hmmm. I'm undecided about which head I will be using with the Bit One. I have a DRZ also, A Eclipse ECD416, Eclipse 8053 (coax), and soon to have a ECD-510. Love the looks of the DRZ and the ECD units, but more then likely it will be the ECD-416 or 510.


----------



## m3gunner

Thanks for the review... I'm chomping at the bit to get a BitOne, but I think it's going to have to wait for the next car.

One question: did you do all of your setup by ear or did you use any test equipment to "get it in the neighborhood" then do the final tweek by ear?


----------



## Buzzman

m3gunner said:


> Thanks for the review... I'm chomping at the bit to get a BitOne, but I think it's going to have to wait for the next car.
> 
> One question: did you do all of your setup by ear or did you use any test equipment to "get it in the neighborhood" then do the final tweek by ear?


It's an awesome piece, and using it gets easier each day as I play around with it. My initial set up was done entirely by ear. The Bit One is fabulous in that it automatically determines its input sensitivity using a sine wave on the set up disk played through your source component. A few days ago I purchased a Radio Shack SPL meter to see what kind of in-car response I was getting. While it's not as accurate as an RTA, the SPL meter, and the flexibility afforded by the Bit One, allowed me to correct some output differences between my left and right channels at 3 frequencies in the treble range and in the upper bass, and reduce a peak in the lower bass. Otherwise, my trusty ears did a good job. Overall, imaging and tonal balance improved.


----------



## Buzzman

Here-I-Come said:


> Congrats on the Marriage.
> 
> My Bit One will be in my hands next week also.
> 
> So you must first have a Analog input to do the initial setup Hmmm. I'm undecided about which head I will be using with the Bit One. I have a DRZ also, A Eclipse ECD416, Eclipse 8053 (coax), and soon to have a ECD-510. Love the looks of the DRZ and the ECD units, but more then likely it will be the ECD-416 or 510.


Mark, thanks for the kind words about my nuptials. You will be very pleased with the Bit One. Yes, you need an analog signal from your head unit to the Bit One to do the initial set-up. I also assume you will need the analog signal if you want to make any changes in the set-up down the road; e.g., if you add a line driver upstream, or change your head unit. I plan to add an optical digital cable to my set-up to assess the pros and cons of going full digital from the Bit One. The DRZ is great in that you can select and deselect the digital output. I am not familiar with the Eclipse units.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Buzzman said:


> Mark, thanks for the kind words about my nuptials. You will be very pleased with the Bit One. Yes, you need an analog signal from your head unit to the Bit One to do the initial set-up. I also assume you will need the analog signal if you want to make any changes in the set-up down the road; e.g., if you add a line driver upstream, or change your head unit. I plan to add an optical digital cable to my set-up to assess the pros and cons of going full digital from the Bit One. The DRZ is great in that you can select and deselect the digital output. I am not familiar with the Eclipse units.


The Eclipse ECD units are consider by many as having one of, if not the best transports ever built for car audio. The 416 and 510 are two of the three units I of that digitalizes the radio radio and sends it out the digital output. The other is the DEX-P9. There may be more, but don't know of them and the DEX-P9 is the only one that does digital volume controll.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Buzzman said:


> It's an awesome piece, and using it gets easier each day as I play around with it. My initial set up was done entirely by ear. The Bit One is fabulous in that it automatically determines its input sensitivity using a sine wave on the set up disk played through your source component. A few days ago I purchased a Radio Shack SPL meter to see what kind of in-car response I was getting. While it's not as accurate as an RTA, the SPL meter, and the flexibility afforded by the Bit One, allowed me to correct some output differences between my left and right channels at 3 frequencies in the treble range and in the upper bass, and reduce a peak in the lower bass. Otherwise, my trusty ears did a good job. Overall, imaging and tonal balance improved.



Buzzman I have an excel program when used with you Radio Shack SPL meter will give you a mock RTA reading. Measure with the SPL meter input the info into the spread sheet in show you a curve. The can see right and left difference in the spread sheet also. If you would like PM me your email address and I will send you the file. Its work pretty darn good!


----------



## linuxpro

Mine is on the way from Audison and I should have it by Thursday next week. Can hardly wait to get it in the vehicle and start playing with it.

One of my favorite features about the BitOne is the ability to save multiple settings and access them from the controller. The BitOne will be going into my SLK-350 (a convertible) so I will be tuning the car with the roof up and with the roof down, and will be able to easily switch between the two when I put the roof up/down while driving. A very nice feature indeed.

Like Arcuhtek, I'm doing a ton of stuff to the vehicle (sound dampening/proofing, new speakers, new amp, new BitOne, new cabling, etc) so it's going to be a few weeks before I'll have a review up on the unit.

Reading these reviews is just making me antsy though. I can't wait to get my BitOne. It's going to sound incredible, I'm sure, with the Hertz Audio components.


----------



## Buzzman

Here-I-Come said:


> The Eclipse ECD units are consider by many as having one of, if not the best transports ever built for car audio. The 416 and 510 are two of the three units I of that digitalizes the radio radio and sends it out the digital output. The other is the DEX-P9. There may be more, but don't know of them and the DEX-P9 is the only one that does digital volume controll.


Wow, I wasn't aware that there were any head units that could convert a radio signal to digital. I don't listen to radio in the car anymore, as I prefer satellite radio, but I will have to check out these ECD head units. One thing I should also mention about the Bit One is that you can use its auxiliary input (analog in) for your satellite radio, for example, and EQ that separately from your cd source! Cool stuff.


----------



## Buzzman

Here-I-Come said:


> Buzzman I have an excel program when used with you Radio Shack SPL meter will give you a mock RTA reading. Measure with the SPL meter input the info into the spread sheet in show you a curve. The can see right and left difference in the spread sheet also. If you would like PM me your email address and I will send you the file. Its work pretty darn good!


Awesome, and thanks! PM on the way.


----------



## Buzzman

linuxpro said:


> Mine is on the way from Audison and I should have it by Thursday next week. Can hardly wait to get it in the vehicle and start playing with it.
> 
> One of my favorite features about the BitOne is the ability to save multiple settings and access them from the controller. The BitOne will be going into my SLK-350 (a convertible) so I will be tuning the car with the roof up and with the roof down, and will be able to easily switch between the two when I put the roof up/down while driving. A very nice feature indeed.
> 
> Like Arcuhtek, I'm doing a ton of stuff to the vehicle (sound dampening/proofing, new speakers, new amp, new BitOne, new cabling, etc) so it's going to be a few weeks before I'll have a review up on the unit.
> 
> Reading these reviews is just making me antsy though. I can't wait to get my BitOne. It's going to sound incredible, I'm sure, with the Hertz Audio components.


Actually, although you can store numerous settings, the DRC controller allows you to recall only up to 4 presets at a time. You have to load other ones and recall them.


----------



## veloze

Hey Don, I think I probably said congrats in past on your recent nuptials. I'm glad that Mrs. Gibson is just as much car audio hobbyist than some of us, she's a great person & stupendous gourmet cook. I'm glad she's my friend too.

I'm getting the bug to try the Bit-Uno down in the future, but I'm going to have to wait for a little while Audison works the bugs out a new product. I have to listen your MBZ soon enough, so my ears can appreciate the good things I've been hearing about the Audison Bit-One. 

Keep us posted of your experiences, and hopefully you get your drivers from Japan soon, so we can listen some tunes cruising down Hollywood Blvd. with a bunch of "Rucas"  

BTW, great review!!

Jose


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

I think the latest firmware 1.3 or 1.03 has worked out all the earlier bugs. With this firmware installed everyone is happy. I is a new one and suppose the to have the updated firmware, this was straight from the horse's month, so I'm very happy.


----------



## Buzzman

veloze said:


> Hey Don, I think I probably said congrats in past on your recent nuptials. I'm glad that Mrs. Gibson is just as much car audio hobbyist than some of us, she's a great person & stupendous gourmet cook. I'm glad she's my friend too.
> 
> I'm getting the bug to try the Bit-Uno down in the future, but I'm going to have to wait for a little while Audison works the bugs out a new product. I have to listen your MBZ soon enough, so my ears can appreciate the good things I've been hearing about the Audison Bit-One.
> 
> Keep us posted of your experiences, and hopefully you get your drivers from Japan soon, so we can listen some tunes cruising down Hollywood Blvd. with a bunch of "Rucas"
> 
> BTW, great review!!
> 
> Jose


Jose, thanks man for all your kind words. If you can swing for the Bit One, I would go for it. The "bugs" have been worked out. In my case I didn't get a new unit as we had thought, so I had to deal with the software and firmware updates. I am hoping to make the IASCA meet this weekend, even if only for a short while. So you will be able to get a listen then. However, my main tweets and mids are in Japan being repaired, so you might have to listen to the second string set-up, which is sounding pretty good.  When I get my speakers back from Japan, Hollywood Blvd. here we come.


----------



## Need-sq

t3sn4f2 said:


> . The jump in voltage from 90% to 0db (4 volt rating) can be 1 to 4 volts. I don't understand how you came to the conclusion that the techs where correct about the voltage being over rated by this experiment.
> 
> Volume scales are logarithmic so they are shallow for most of the range and then shoot up, easily 1-4 volts on the last 10%.
> 
> Like this or even more aggressive at the top of the range.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find it hard to believe one of the best head units out there is that over rated on preamp output. It's likely that the 4 volt rating is MAX the way the 8 volt is instead of RMS and that there is some left over for EQ boosting and sub out but I can't see it being only 1 volt out at +8dB.


Buzzman, Thanks so much for an excellent review and semi-tutorial . It will no doubt help me, should I ever have the money to buy one. I don't really like my DCX730 and have been looking for different options........

Now, at the risk of falling into the trap of negativity I gotta say to *t3sn4f2*, Chill out. What you bring up is really not necessary in this great review thread. Your opinions and "Facts" are superfluous and, in this setting, distract from the point of the whole thread. 

Buzzman has been an outstanding resource both when reviewing and lending set up help for the DCX (which by the way is the only in depth and, IMO the best way to go about setting up the DCX), and now again with the Bit-One. I've had the pleasure of listening to his system last year at Marv's BBQ, when he had the DCX installed, and it sounded outstanding. I can only imagine what it sounds like now.......BTW Congrats on the marriage.


Please post distracting unproductive comments to a different spot. Thank you.


----------



## Buzzman

Here-I-Come said:


> I think the latest firmware 1.3 or 1.03 has worked out all the earlier bugs. With this firmware installed everyone is happy. I is a new one and suppose the to have the updated firmware, this was straight from the horse's month, so I'm very happy.


Hey Mark, just to clarify, the latest FIRMWARE is edition 1.0.7.1. The latest SOFTWARE is 1.3. If the CD Rom that comes with your Bit One indicates this, then you are good as gold. You only need to put the CD into your CD Player and begin set up.


----------



## Buzzman

Need-sq said:


> Buzzman, Thanks so much for an excellent review and semi-tutorial . It will no doubt help me, should I ever have the money to buy one. I don't really like my DCX730 and have been looking for different options........
> 
> Now, at the risk of falling into the trap of negativity I gotta say to *t3sn4f2*, Chill out. What you bring up is really not necessary in this great review thread. Your opinions and "Facts" are superfluous and, in this setting, distract from the point of the whole thread.
> 
> Buzzman has been an outstanding resource both when reviewing and lending set up help for the DCX (which by the way is the only in depth and, IMO the best way to go about setting up the DCX), and now again with the Bit-One. I've had the pleasure of listening to his system last year at Marv's BBQ, when he had the DCX installed, and it sounded outstanding. I can only imagine what it sounds like now.......BTW Congrats on the marriage.
> 
> 
> Please post distracting unproductive comments to a different spot. Thank you.


Hey NeedSQ, great to hear from you man. It's been a while. Hope all is well in NC. Thanks for your kind words. I'm glad you found the review helpful. The reasons you stated were why I ended my dialoge with t3sn4f2. 

Because I don't want to divert this thread from its focus, the Bit One, send me a PM with why you aren't digging your PPI processor and maybe I can offer some suggestions. 

Hope to see you at Marv's this year.


----------



## ErinH

nevermind...


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Buzzman said:


> Hey Mark, just to clarify, the latest FIRMWARE is edition 1.0.7.1. The latest SOFTWARE is 1.3. If the CD Rom that comes with your Bit One indicates this, then you are good as gold. You only need to put the CD into your CD Player and begin set up.


You are correct sir, I just talk with them and I should have mine by Wednesday, if FedEx pickups today. Weather is a little rough in their location.


----------



## Buzzman

Here-I-Come said:


> You are correct sir, I just talk with them and I should have mine by Wednesday, if FedEx pickups today. Weather is a little rough in their location.


Cool. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Have you played with the excel program yet. You can just enter some values on the data page and get an idea of how it works.

Also the you have a tone generator. If not I have one that will done just about any hz value you want. I use it to make a CD with sine waves from 15 hz -20khz @ 1/3 octave. Then print out the Test page and take this the car with the CD I made and play the tracks with Left, Right and then with both and write this the values I get for each track on the test page and then enter into the program on the data page and it will give you a curve with both left and right and a sum of both, even a recommend eq setting.


----------



## Buzzman

Mark, I haven't had a chance to play with the Excel program as yet. Hope to do so later today or tomorrow. I have some test cds that use both pink noise and tones at 1/3 octave I plan to use. Really looking forward to seeing how this works. Thanks again.


----------



## t3sn4f2

Buzzman said:


> Hey NeedSQ, great to hear from you man. It's been a while. Hope all is well in NC. Thanks for your kind words. I'm glad you found the review helpful. The reasons you stated were why I ended my dialoge with t3sn4f2.
> 
> Because I don't want to divert this thread from its focus, the Bit One, send me a PM with why you aren't digging your PPI processor and maybe I can offer some suggestions.
> 
> Hope to see you at Marv's this year.


You guys are right, I apologize. This is your review thread and you have the right to state whatever you like and not have anyone go against it. Right or wrong helpful or not.

Unfortunately I can't go back and edit my post and remove all I put so to anyone that reads what I put please ignore it and I apologize to you as well.


----------



## Buzzman

t3sn4f2 said:


> You guys are right, I analogize. This is your review thread and you have the right to state whatever you like and not have anyone go against it. Right or wrong helpful or not.
> 
> Unfortunately I can't go back and edit my post and remove all I put so to anyone that reads what I put please ignore it and I apologize to you as well.


Hey man, it's all cool. There is no desire to suppress free speech here. I am always interested in hearing other people's opinions, as that is an important part of the education process. If you want to start a separate thread on the issues you raised, I would be happy to chime in there.  And, :thumbsup: to you for the way you handled this.


----------



## ErinH

well, I got my new bit one back and am having a very weird problem. Could you give me Larry's contact info? I need to talk to someone at Audison but the only # I have is the overseas #.


----------



## Buzzman

bikinpunk said:


> well, I got my new bit one back and am having a very weird problem. Could you give me Larry's contact info? I need to talk to someone at Audison but the only # I have is the overseas #.


I will send it to you via PM as I doubt he wants it up for everyone's use. Perhaps you could share with us the problem you are having.


----------



## volker

Do they usually have a fast response time for general questions ? In my case the question for dealers in CT or online retailers.
Looks like you have to send them a message, which I did on Saturday. Ok, weekend etc. but it is e-mail, not the Pony Express...


----------



## CraigE

Buzzman,
Congratulations on the marriage.
And thanks for the review.
We must be neighbors. I'm in the Los Feliz area.
I have a 3Sixty.2 that I've been having a BT connectivity issue with.
I went to the RF web site a and there is a notice on this problem.
After a call to RF I pulled it out and sent it for repair.
I'm thinking of going with the Bit 1. But at $800, it ain't cheap.
Do you have experience with the 3Sixty.2 ?
Craig


----------



## Buzzman

CraigE said:


> Buzzman,
> Congratulations on the marriage.
> And thanks for the review.
> We must be neighbors. I'm in the Los Feliz area.
> I have a 3Sixty.2 that I've been having a BT connectivity issue with.
> I went to the RF web site a and there is a notice on this problem.
> After a call to RF I pulled it out and sent it for repair.
> I'm thinking of going with the Bit 1. But at $800, it ain't cheap.
> Do you have experience with the 3Sixty.2 ?
> Craig


Craig, I am in West LA, so we aren't far apart. I don't have any experience with the RF piece. From other posts I have seen, many others have, so you might want to do a search regarding your particular issue. Yes, the Bit One isn't cheap, but I have seen people spend more $$ on various subs, and in my opinion the Bit One makes an overall greater impact on the sonic virtues of a system.


----------



## Buzzman

volker said:


> Do they usually have a fast response time for general questions ? In my case the question for dealers in CT or online retailers.
> Looks like you have to send them a message, which I did on Saturday. Ok, weekend etc. but it is e-mail, not the Pony Express...


You can call the main office in Southern Cal, 1-877-567-3030. They are usually available to help right away.


----------



## denali804

CraigE said:


> Buzzman,
> Congratulations on the marriage.
> And thanks for the review.
> We must be neighbors. I'm in the Los Feliz area.
> I have a 3Sixty.2 that I've been having a BT connectivity issue with.
> I went to the RF web site a and there is a notice on this problem.
> After a call to RF I pulled it out and sent it for repair.
> I'm thinking of going with the Bit 1. But at $800, it ain't cheap.
> Do you have experience with the 3Sixty.2 ?
> Craig


Craig, The 3sixty.2 is a nice piece of equipment. I replaced mine with the bitone and have no regrets. You don't have to worry about the bluetooth not working which is suppose to be fixed with newer units and I couldn't get rid of all the noise while using the unit. I've also talked to other users that have had noise issues. Also I think that the bitone just has a warmer sound but that could just be my ears. If you look around you will find out that the bitone could be had for very close to what the 3sixty.2 sells for. The dealer cost on both units are very very close, but I won't get into that.


----------



## volker

Buzzman said:


> You can call the main office in Southern Cal, 1-877-567-3030. They are usually available to help right away.



Thanks Buzzman, I appreciate it !


----------



## Buzzman

volker said:


> Thanks Buzzman, I appreciate it !


Anytime, and good luck.


----------



## CraigE

Thanks for the feedback guys.
I'm looking around the L.A. area now, for a dealer with a B1 in stock.
Before I purchase I need to make sure it will fit.
It's going in the passenger footwell of an 07 Corvette where the 3Sixty was.
Got the B1 dimensions, and it should fit ,but the hookups may interfere.
It looks as if all the B1 connections are recessed, which will help.
Again Thanks


----------



## Buzzman

CraigE said:


> Thanks for the feedback guys.
> I'm looking around the L.A. area now, for a dealer with a B1 in stock.
> Before I purchase I need to make sure it will fit.
> It's going in the passenger footwell of an 07 Corvette where the 3Sixty was.
> Got the B1 dimensions, and it should fit ,but the hookups may interfere.
> It looks as if all the B1 connections are recessed, which will help.
> Again Thanks


Craig, call Rich of Auto Essentials in Thousand Oaks - 805-371-9983. Tell him Don referred you.


----------



## CraigE

Thanks,
I talked to him, and he doesn't have one in stock.


----------



## Buzzman

CraigE said:


> Thanks,
> I talked to him, and he doesn't have one in stock.


Too bad. He must have sold it.


----------



## thegeck

Thanks


----------



## thbugman

I have an apple laptop... Does anyone know if it will recognize the BitOne?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I posted this on the other B1 thread...but for the sake of it....

If anyone wants dimensions 


Width: 8 7/8"
Depth: 6"
Height: 1"

She is TINY!


----------



## Buzzman

thbugman said:


> I have an apple laptop... Does anyone know if it will recognize the BitOne?


You need Windows software. Thus, if your Mac can operate Windows, you are OK.


----------



## thbugman

errr, swore to myself, never again "windows"


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Buzzman said:


> Hey Mark, just to clarify, the latest FIRMWARE is edition 1.0.7.1. The latest SOFTWARE is 1.3. If the CD Rom that comes with your Bit One indicates this, then you are good as gold. You only need to put the CD into your CD Player and begin set up.


Ok got my Bit 1 about 45 mins ago and the soft ware is indeed 1.3 so I golden.

Now I must so this thing is tiny and just beautiful. I love the looks of the controller. Makes me want to by a Z1 or 8250 to make it next to that what the buttons remind me of.


----------



## Buzzman

Here-I-Come said:


> Ok got my Bit 1 about 45 mins ago and the soft ware is indeed 1.3 so I golden.
> 
> Now I must so this thing is tiny and just beautiful. I love the looks of the controller. Makes me want to by a Z1 or 8250 to make it next to that what the buttons remind me of.


Alright!! :2thumbsup: Get it installed and let us know your thoughts. I am loving mine more each day.


----------



## CraigE

OK !!! 
I just got the B1 in, and a quick setup.
I only had to do some minor modification to some plastic in the foot well of my 07 Corvette.
Other than that, it was plug and PLAY. Basically it just replaced the 3Sixty.2. Easy install,easy setup.
The sound is good. 
I thought it was easy to navigate (user friendly) and so far no problems.
I really like the USB cord to connect to the PC. No PITA BT connection like the 3Sixty.2. I would really like to use it with my Macbook though.
The reviews and tips from you guys sure helped.
Thanks,


----------



## Buzzman

CraigE said:


> OK !!!
> I just got the B1 in, and a quick setup.
> I only had to do some minor modification to some plastic in the foot well of my 07 Corvette.
> Other than that, it was plug and PLAY. Basically it just replaced the 3Sixty.2. Easy install,easy setup.
> The sound is good.
> I thought it was easy to navigate (user friendly) and so far no problems.
> I really like the USB cord to connect to the PC. No PITA BT connection like the 3Sixty.2. I would really like to use it with my Macbook though.
> The reviews and tips from you guys sure helped.
> Thanks,
> View attachment 8988
> 
> 
> View attachment 8989


Craig, glad it worked out for you. The fitment looks great. Enjoy!


----------



## ErinH

I'm _thiiiiiiiiiiiis_ close to finally getting mine setup just right. I had been having some issues with the new one, but this time they're install related. 

I gave a small review a couple months ago, but to recap:
Greater detail over the h701. Less noisy for sure (regarding hiss). PC controls are great. Software interface is fine once you remember that you have to exit the program properly  (I’ve forgotten this about 5 times). Small, easy to hook up. 
Depth and focus increased simply by dropping this in and keeping same settings from the h701.


Eventually I’m going to try to do a review on this myself but I’ve just not had the time lately. Too much going on with my house and trying to get my car issues resolved.


----------



## Buzzman

bikinpunk said:


> I'm _thiiiiiiiiiiiis_ close to finally getting mine setup just right. I had been having some issues with the new one, but this time they're install related.
> 
> I gave a small review a couple months ago, but to recap:
> Greater detail over the h701. Less noisy for sure (regarding hiss). PC controls are great. Software interface is fine once you remember that you have to exit the program properly  (I’ve forgotten this about 5 times). Small, easy to hook up.
> Depth and focus increased simply by dropping this in and keeping same settings from the h701.
> 
> 
> Eventually I’m going to try to do a review on this myself but I’ve just not had the time lately. Too much going on with my house and trying to get my car issues resolved.


Great to hear that you are resolving your issues and that they weren't related to the Bit One, and that you are experiencing the same type of improvement in sound quality I did.


----------



## Ianaconi

Great job on the review!

I have a BITONE on the way!

I also own a DRZ that is currently installed on my system.

I am thinking on swapping the DRZ for a W505. What do you think? Would I lose SQ if I use the BitOne + W505 instead of Bitone + DRZ?

Thanks!


----------



## Buzzman

Ianaconi said:


> Great job on the review!
> 
> I have a BITONE on the way!
> 
> I also own a DRZ that is currently installed on my system.
> 
> I am thinking on swapping the DRZ for a W505. What do you think? Would I lose SQ if I use the BitOne + W505 instead of Bitone + DRZ?
> 
> Thanks!


Thanks for the compliments. You will love the Bit One. Regarding swapping the DRZ for a W505, it depends on your priorities. Mine is music only, so I would never make the swap. If you want (need?) the audio visual capabilities and control the W505 offers in a single package, then it's an easy decision.


----------



## hernanrod

nice review!
my B1 is on the way! 
he will play with an alpine ipod ida-x305 (please dont hit me, i like ipod interfase of ida)

after read you have to plug a line driver beacause 1v of drz... will see what happend with alpine, but I guess that i have to get a line driver too.... alpine have only "2v" against 4v of dlz declared


----------



## linuxpro

I get my BitOne tomorrow! YAAAAY!! Can hardly wait.


----------



## CraigE

Im' 3 days ahead of you.
A couple of things I've found;

1- Before you start the setup, be sure of the input channels.
The manual shows connecting from the HU to ch 1 as Right.
The B1 seems to like left channels as odd numbers.

2- Same for the output channels.

3- Make sure you read what the title is at the top during setup.
There is one (Page 19 step13) that it appears to have you designate speakers or xovers and the top is titled AD Link/AC Link. If you are not using this type of connection, press the NEXT button.

4- I recommend a practice run in the "Offline" mode

Take your time and double check before proceeding.
Hope this helps.


----------



## TEGBOY

As much as I would love teh BitOne, the only sticking point for me, is having to use the remote face for the volume; instead of the one on my cd player. This means I lose my steering wheel control usage.

I am weighing up the RF 3sixty.2 or the Alpine PXA H-701, I have one on my other car, that I could swap between cars


----------



## ErinH

TEGBOY said:


> As much as I would love teh BitOne, the only sticking point for me, is having to use the remote face for the volume; instead of the one on my cd player. This means I lose my steering wheel control usage.


only if you're using a digital output off your headunit. Otherwise, run analog to the bit one and you're fine.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

bikinpunk said:


> only if you're using a digital output off your headunit. Otherwise, run analog to the bit one and you're fine.


Yep, what he said.


----------



## Ianaconi

I do not need the audio capabilities of the W505, but it would look damn nice on my dash.

My main concern is losing "SQ".

So if I run digital I need to control the volume on the DRC? That sucks doesn't it?

I rather run analog then.


----------



## Buzzman

Ianaconi said:


> I do not need the audio capabilities of the W505, but it would look damn nice on my dash.


I think you meant video.



Ianaconi said:


> My main concern is losing "SQ".


Based on this, and what you say about not needing the video capabilities of the W505, the decision is easy. The DRZ. Unless, looks are more important to you than sound quality.



Ianaconi said:


> So if I run digital I need to control the volume on the DRC? That sucks doesn't it?
> 
> I rather run analog then.


In my opinion you should use the DRC controller as your master volume control in any event because the Bit One determines its input sensitivity based on the signal coming from your head unit. If you change the volume setting on your head unit (presumably turning it down) then you are not sending the optimal voltage to the Bit One and are not optimizing the signal to noise ratio. You also run the risk of turning your head unit volume higher than the setting you used to set up the Bit One, which might cause clipping. So, the best thing, in my opinion, is to use the volume control on the Bit One and leave the head unit volume setting alone (but remember it in case some melon head sits in your car at Marv's BBQ or some other meet and changes it instead of the Bit One Volume). 

If you have the ability to run an optical digital signal out of your head unit to the Bit One you should try it. You have to run analog anyway to set up and make certain changes to the Bit One. So, compare it to the digital signal, which will likely give you a much lower noise floor than the analog signal, plus with the optical connection you keep the entire signal through the output of the Bit One in the digital domain.


----------



## volker

You guys really make me want the Bit One... all the while, Audison doesn't seem to want my business and truthfully, the time I spent already on hunting a dealer down starts summing up.

Sent a second online request asking (both politely, with Hello and Best Regards) for dealers for my state, no response.
I called the main office number that Buzzman gave me, got 2 dealer #.
One number was dead, it was the correct one, found it online as well but it didn't go through. The second reached voice mail, no call back.

Pretty good start for a product relationship for me...


----------



## Buzzman

volker said:


> You guys really make me want the Bit One... all the while, Audison doesn't seem to want my business and truthfully, the time I spent already on hunting a dealer down starts summing up.
> 
> Sent a second online request asking (both politely, with Hello and Best Regards) for dealers for my state, no response.
> I called the main office number that Buzzman gave me, got 2 dealer #.
> One number was dead, it was the correct one, found it online as well but it didn't go through. The second reached voice mail, no call back.
> 
> Pretty good start for a product relationship for me...


Yo, Volker, don't get discouraged. In this economy, a number of retail shops are folding, and often the importer/distributor is the last to know. If you can't find a dealer within your locale, expand outside the area. Elettromedia USA won't have an issue with that. So, I would call them back and ask for someone in a neighboring state if necessary.


----------



## linuxpro

Just got my Bit One this morning. Am reading through the manual now, and preparing for the install.

For Volker, or anyone else interested in purchasing a Bit One, I can give you the contact data for an excellent authorized Audison dealer where I got my Bit One. I got mine for an excellent price and the service was outstanding. The owner of the shop talked to me on the phone for about an hour about my install, and gave me a number of tips, as well as having the best prices of any Hertz/Audison dealer that I could find.

PM me if you want the contact info for the dealer where many of us are getting the Bit One.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

linuxpro said:


> Just got my Bit One this morning. Am reading through the manual now, and preparing for the install.
> 
> For Volker, or anyone else interested in purchasing a Bit One, I can give you the contact data for an excellent authorized Audison dealer where I got my Bit One. I got mine for an excellent price and the service was outstanding. The owner of the shop talked to me on the phone for about an hour about my install, and gave me a number of tips, as well as having the best prices of any Hertz/Audison dealer that I could find.
> 
> PM me if you want the contact info for the dealer where many of us are getting the Bit One.


You beat me to it...


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

linuxpro said:


> Just got my Bit One this morning. Am reading through the manual now, and preparing for the install.
> 
> For Volker, or anyone else interested in purchasing a Bit One, I can give you the contact data for an excellent authorized Audison dealer where I got my Bit One. I got mine for an excellent price and the service was outstanding. The owner of the shop talked to me on the phone for about an hour about my install, and gave me a number of tips, as well as having the best prices of any Hertz/Audison dealer that I could find.
> 
> PM me if you want the contact info for the dealer where many of us are getting the Bit One.


linux you the man. Thanks


----------



## less

Ok, well the bit one sure seems to have its little cult well in order =) Sounds like its a great unit and one that is capable of being used with many different systems instead of being proprietary to one brand - making it the ideal addition for many of use hard core music and electronic geeks!

Offhand, it seems like a great product that has come at a time when many are looking for a product that does just what this does... nie timing Audison - and thanks for paying attention to the high enders instead of selling out to the masses of those seeking only a bit more flexibility or a lot of bump.

I have one question though, and I haven't seen an answer to it yet. In all my readings here and other boards, I've don't remember anyone ever recommending or saying it was good to run their sound through two d/a conversion processes. In fact, I've always been under the impression that we want to minimize the a/d d/a conversion processm and yet apparently several of you are using analog to connect to the bit one - when a digital output is available to you.. all because of the inconvenience of having to use a different volume control. 

I understand that convenience is surely a large part of what we all look for in a system - but what is the point in using an $800 processor with its own high quality d/a converter and then feeding it an analog signal that has already had to go through the d/a conversion process first -- when every time the process takes place there is more potential for noise/loss/distortion (even though the DRZ admittedly has a great d/a converter)?

I know the OP only did this due to the ridiculous nature of Clarion's optical cable supply, but I'd love to hear the reviews of the difference between going digital in to the B1 and going Analog in. I suspect you will be more pleased with the SQ even though you have to sacrifice some convenience. 

Having used a DRZ for a while, I'm very surprised to hear someone state that using a inline booster on the analog outs is remotely beneficial... but I've sure been wrong before... this almost makes me want to try it out for myself. I switched from running 1 foot rca analogs from my H701 to running 13 foot homemade RCAs of fairly high quality all the way through my car, and I can't imagine adding a line booster could possible improve my noise levels (I don't hear any noise on a zero bit track at ridiculous output levels) nor could I imagine getting better dramatic range as I've some tracks that I describe as "drum beats out of nowhere" that simply knock me flat and startle the heck out of me - without a booster.

MY curiousity is up... but instinct tells me that adding something else to the path is only adding potential noise - unless you are adding something like the Zapco balanced symbilink system which actually reduces noise through its inherent design.

Thanks much for taking the time to share your input and experiences in setting this bugger up! Rest assured, I don't want to be one of those people who penalize you for being "brave enough" to step out and share your thoughts... I'm just doing a little thinking out loud and sharing some of my own! Oh - and the B1 would probably be a great way to deal with the addition of a digital media player... if one is tired of carting around 200 cds - movies - etc. and happens to also have a video screen installed as part of their system. 

Less


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

less said:


> Ok, well the bit one sure seems to have its little cult well in order =) Sounds like its a great unit and one that is capable of being used with many different systems instead of being proprietary to one brand - making it the ideal addition for many of use hard core music and electronic geeks!
> 
> Offhand, it seems like a great product that has come at a time when many are looking for a product that does just what this does... nie timing Audison - and thanks for paying attention to the high enders instead of selling out to the masses of those seeking only a bit more flexibility or a lot of bump.
> 
> I have one question though, and I haven't seen an answer to it yet. In all my readings here and other boards, I've don't remember anyone ever recommending or saying it was good to run their sound through two d/a conversion processes. In fact, I've always been under the impression that we want to minimize the a/d d/a conversion processm and yet apparently several of you are using analog to connect to the bit one - when a digital output is available to you.. all because of the inconvenience of having to use a different volume control.
> 
> I understand that convenience is surely a large part of what we all look for in a system - but what is the point in using an $800 processor with its own high quality d/a converter and then feeding it an analog signal that has already had to go through the d/a conversion process first -- when every time the process takes place there is more potential for noise/loss/distortion (even though the DRZ admittedly has a great d/a converter)?
> 
> I know the OP only did this due to the ridiculous nature of Clarion's optical cable supply, but I'd love to hear the reviews of the difference between going digital in to the B1 and going Analog in. I suspect you will be more pleased with the SQ even though you have to sacrifice some convenience.
> 
> Having used a DRZ for a while, I'm very surprised to hear someone state that using a inline booster on the analog outs is remotely beneficial... but I've sure been wrong before... this almost makes me want to try it out for myself. I switched from running 1 foot rca analogs from my H701 to running 13 foot homemade RCAs of fairly high quality all the way through my car, and I can't imagine adding a line booster could possible improve my noise levels (I don't hear any noise on a zero bit track at ridiculous output levels) nor could I imagine getting better dramatic range as I've some tracks that I describe as "drum beats out of nowhere" that simply knock me flat and startle the heck out of me - without a booster.
> 
> MY curiousity is up... but instinct tells me that adding something else to the path is only adding potential noise - unless you are adding something like the Zapco balanced symbilink system which actually reduces noise through its inherent design.
> 
> Thanks much for taking the time to share your input and experiences in setting this bugger up! Rest assured, I don't want to be one of those people who penalize you for being "brave enough" to step out and share your thoughts... I'm just doing a little thinking out loud and sharing some of my own! Oh - and the B1 would probably be a great way to deal with the addition of a digital media player... if one is tired of carting around 200 cds - movies - etc. and happens to also have a video screen installed as part of their system.
> 
> Less


The review you seek should be coming soon via doitor review of the Bit 1 and H900 with a great line up of Head units. As for as the D/A to A/D back to D/A conversion, many say that the analog inputs on the H900 sound better then the digital input. We doitor should give us an answer to all the above.

As for as adding a line driver, as long as it is a high quality unit it should help. Units like the Tru peace has a tru higher rms voltage output and this going into your processor should yield better dynamics and a better noise floor. Notice I said should. Higher volt less chance for noise affect the single. But i here you about adding another unit in line. But the Tru piece seems to be a go to piece for line drivers. Think I many need to pick one up myself to set my bit 1 up, but I will be running a digital signal to mine from either my Eclipse ECD-416, 510, CD8053 or maybe my DRZ9255, well maybe not the DRZ since i have all the other unit, I think it would be a waste of the unit. Especially since the ECD as one of the best transport ever made of car audio.


----------



## autofile

Less,

Why does there have to be extra d/a and a/d in the signal path?

I use a BitOne in my system. I take the analog outputs from a Denon DCT1, for the am/fm and SAT radio, which would have to be analog anyway (no one has made a SAT tuner for the car with digital outputs yet)
then I take the optical digital output for the CD section directly to the BitOne.
I also take a coaxial digital output from an iPod (or in your case it could be a Sarotech) directly in to the Bitone.
So for the highest fidelity sources (ie a CD and in my case an iPod) there is only one d/a in the signal path, the Bitone!
For the "iffy" signal sources, the am/fm and SAT radio, there is one extra a/d conversion, in the bitone.
further in my system I take digital output from the Bitone and feed it directly in to Audison TH amplifiers, and the d/a conversion is done right in the amplifiers, this is an EXTREMELY short signal path in the analog domain!


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

autofile said:


> Less,
> 
> Why does there have to be extra d/a and a/d in the signal path?
> 
> I use a BitOne in my system. I take the analog outputs from a Denon DCT1, for the am/fm and SAT radio, which would have to be analog anyway (no one has made a SAT tuner for the car with digital outputs yet)
> then I take the optical digital output for the CD section directly to the BitOne.
> I also take a coaxial digital output from an iPod (or in your case it could be a Sarotech) directly in to the Bitone.
> So for the highest fidelity sources (ie a CD and in my case an iPod) there is only one d/a in the signal path, the Bitone!
> For the "iffy" signal sources, the am/fm and SAT radio, there is one extra a/d conversion, in the bitone.
> further in my system I take digital output from the Bitone and feed it directly in to Audison TH amplifiers, and the d/a conversion is done right in the amplifiers, this is an EXTREMELY short signal path in the analog domain!



Man Peter your making full us of the Bit inputs. I'm lucky the ECD's sends the turner signal via the digital out like the DEX-P9 does. I have no SAT radio, but will have a on board Carputer that I might run analog, but I might us the coax digital input for it. 

It must be great to be able to run the digital signal a the way down the you amp, now that is a digital signal path.

I think his concerns at the Digital to analog in the head then to the processor which it takes the analog convert it to digital for processing and then back to analog to send it out to the amps.


----------



## autofile

Hi Mark,

Are you sure the tuner is output on your digital lines? 

I <was> fairly certain the P9's am/fm tuner signal is analog and carried on its iBUS signal chain.
When I tried it, using just the optical output signal of the P9 sent to an outboard d/a, all that was present was the CD section signal.
Same with every other headunit I have tried from Sony, Alpine, Denon, McIntosh, etc etc etc.




Here-I-Come said:


> Man Peter your making full us of the Bit inputs. I'm lucky the ECD's sends the turner signal via the digital out like the DEX-P9 does. I have no SAT radio, but will have a on board Carputer that I might run analog, but I might us the coax digital input for it.
> 
> It must be great to be able to run the digital signal a the way down the you amp, now that is a digital signal path.
> 
> I think his concerns at the Digital to analog in the head then to the processor which it takes the analog convert it to digital for processing and then back to analog to send it out to the amps.


----------



## Buzzman

less said:


> . . .I have one question though, and I haven't seen an answer to it yet. In all my readings here and other boards, I've don't remember anyone ever recommending or saying it was good to run their sound through two d/a conversion processes. In fact, I've always been under the impression that we want to minimize the a/d d/a conversion processm and yet apparently several of you are using analog to connect to the bit one - when a digital output is available to you.. all because of the inconvenience of having to use a different volume control.
> 
> I understand that convenience is surely a large part of what we all look for in a system - but what is the point in using an $800 processor with its own high quality d/a converter and then feeding it an analog signal that has already had to go through the d/a conversion process first -- when every time the process takes place there is more potential for noise/loss/distortion (even though the DRZ admittedly has a great d/a converter)?
> 
> I know the OP only did this due to the ridiculous nature of Clarion's optical cable supply, but I'd love to hear the reviews of the difference between going digital in to the B1 and going Analog in. I suspect you will be more pleased with the SQ even though you have to sacrifice some convenience.


Less, yes, ideally you want to minimze the number of digital to analog conversion processes to which the music signal is put. That is accomplished by running the signal off the digital output of the DRZ to the Bit One. However, it must be made clear that you HAVE to run an analog input to the Bit One in any case in order to set it up. So, in the case of the DRZ, assuming you have both digital and analog cables running to the Bit One, when you want to listen to your digital music source you simply select the digital out operation. Clarion is not unique among manufacturers in having a proprietary digital connector for its components. That's how they sell other components to you.  I have the Clarion cable on order, and after making the necessary modifications and inserting it between the DRZ and the Bit ONe, I will offer my thoughts on the sonic differences between the analog and digital options. Also, the choice between digital and analog signals to the Bit One is not simply one of convenience related to using a particular volume control knob. In my opinion, in either case you should use the DRC controller for the Bit One as your volume control because your head unit's volume level should remain constant as that is the level at which the Bit One's input sensitivity is determined, and by leaving that constant you maximize the signal to noise ratio. Plus, the volume knob on the DRC is very nicely proportioned, has a smooth feel to it and puts the volume knobs on a number of head units to shame.



less said:


> Having used a DRZ for a while, I'm very surprised to hear someone state that using a inline booster on the analog outs is remotely beneficial... but I've sure been wrong before... this almost makes me want to try it out for myself. I switched from running 1 foot rca analogs from my H701 to running 13 foot homemade RCAs of fairly high quality all the way through my car, and I can't imagine adding a line booster could possible improve my noise levels (I don't hear any noise on a zero bit track at ridiculous output levels) nor could I imagine getting better dramatic range as I've some tracks that I describe as "drum beats out of nowhere" that simply knock me flat and startle the heck out of me - without a booster. . . .


Well, I can assure you that in MY case the Tru line driver made a noticeable, and appreciable POSITIVE difference. Inserting a line driver into your signal path can ADD *not *reduce noise because it can amplify the already existing noise that you may not presently hear to levels that you can hear. That was the problem with my last set-up. However, with the Bit One in place, I have not experienced that. Rather, I have experienced the benefits of a top quality line driver: improved dynamics, better low level resolution, and more depth. You will have to try it for yourself to see if you like the results. Who knows, with a high quality line driver in place, those drum beats you desribe above may do a lot more to you. :rimshot::bigcry::bowdown:


----------



## nycsurfer

Nice write up !


----------



## nepl29

Buzzman,

Did you installed the tru line driver before or after the bitone.
Im using the speaker level inputs and wandering if installing between the bitone and amps would make a difference.


----------



## Buzzman

nepl29 said:


> Buzzman,
> 
> Did you installed the tru line driver before or after the bitone.
> Im using the speaker level inputs and wandering if installing between the bitone and amps would make a difference.


It's presently installed between the Bit One and the DRZ9255 because I wanted to optimize the signal going to the Bit One. When I go optical out, I will consider keeping it in the chain, which means it will go after the Bit One. (Note: the Bit One does NOT act as a line driver.) In your case, because you are using speaker level inputs, you will have to use your line driver AFTER the Bit One. Try it with and without the line driver and see which you prefer.


----------



## Buzzman

nycsurfer said:


> Nice write up !


Hey, your first post is a compliment to me!  Thanks from a Brooklynite.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

autofile said:


> Hi Mark,
> 
> Are you sure the tuner is output on your digital lines?
> 
> I <was> fairly certain the P9's am/fm tuner signal is analog and carried on its iBUS signal chain.
> When I tried it, using just the optical output signal of the P9 sent to an outboard d/a, all that was present was the CD section signal.
> Same with every other headunit I have tried from Sony, Alpine, Denon, McIntosh, etc etc etc.



Honsetly not sure on the P9 just what I was told it did digital volume and turner, but I'm sure the 416/516 does. I will let you know on all of them a few days.


----------



## ErinH

Did you _try_ the line driver before the amps as well?

I actually just ordered one of these and remembered that you said you’re running one.




edited because I mistyped.


----------



## Buzzman

bikinpunk said:


> Did you _try_ the line driver after the amps as well?
> 
> I actually just ordered one of these and remembered that you said you’re running one.


No, the line driver has to send the signal TO the amps. I am presently using it between the Bit One and my DRZ9255. However, after I get my digital cable, I will put the line driver after the Bit One (since the Tru piece does not have a digital input), and see how I like it then. I suspect it will be better than the current set up. 

By the way, I have been following the issues you, Archutek and others are having and hope things get resolved soon for you. I spoke with Larry and understand what's going on.


----------



## ErinH

Buzzman said:


> No, the line driver has to send the signal TO the amps. I am presently using it between the Bit One and my DRZ9255. However, after I get my digital cable, I will put the line driver after the Bit One (since the Tru piece does not have a digital input), and see how I like it then. I suspect it will be better than the current set up.
> 
> By the way, I have been following the issues you, Archutek and others are having and hope things get resolved soon for you. I spoke with Larry and understand what's going on.



Lol… I read your reply like three times trying to figure out wtf you were talking about… then I realized that I mistyped. I meant to ask did you ever try it before your amps (between the bit one and the amps). 

Yea, we’re not crazy. There’s genuinely something up with those units. Hopefully I’ll have mine resolved tonight. We’ll see…


----------



## Buzzman

bikinpunk said:


> Lol… I read your reply like three times trying to figure out wtf you were talking about… then I realized that I mistyped. I meant to ask did you ever try it before your amps (between the bit one and the amps).


:laugh: I figured as much. 



bikinpunk said:


> Yea, we’re not crazy. There’s genuinely something up with those units. Hopefully I’ll have mine resolved tonight. We’ll see…


Yeah, sounds like it. Fortunately, mine has been trouble free, and sounds killer. But, keeping my fingers crossed, too. Good luck.


----------



## khanhfat

u're crazy man.. u got the DRZ and now put a BIt one into it  Great to hear the reviews. Althought the price of this unit cost an arm and leg  . 

Thanks for the helpful review.


----------



## Buzzman

khanhfat said:


> u're crazy man.. u got the DRZ and now put a BIt one into it  Great to hear the reviews. Althought the price of this unit cost an arm and leg  .
> 
> Thanks for the helpful review.


Thanks, man. As a processor, the DRZ does not offer any where near the scope of options offered by the Bit One. Yeah, it's not cheap, but for me, the smile I have every day in my car makes it worth it.


----------



## Ianaconi

So you plan on using the OPTICAL OUT on the DRZ to connect the BITONE? Is that possible?

Don't you have to do some modifications on the DRZ since it needs proprietary cable/etc?


----------



## ErinH

that's a cakewalk. just buy a dca006, cut the end and use one of these. done.

I did it myself when I had the mcintosh headunit. Less actually posted about it a while back; he did the same with his drz.


----------



## Buzzman

Ianaconi said:


> So you plan on using the OPTICAL OUT on the DRZ to connect the BITONE? Is that possible?
> 
> Don't you have to do some modifications on the DRZ since it needs proprietary cable/etc?


As Bikinpunk notes, it's a fairly easy thing to deal with. You purchase the Clarion optical cable (DCA005), and the end going into the Bit One is snipped (make sure it's a nice and flat cut) and replaced with a toslink connector. That's it.


----------



## Ianaconi

Awesome.

So what is the cable I need DCA-005 or DCA006?


----------



## Buzzman

Ianaconi said:


> Awesome.
> 
> So what is the cable I need DCA-005 or DCA006?


I ordered the DCA-005 per the recommendation of the Clarion Tech department - it's 15ft long.


----------



## Ianaconi

Awesome. Let me know if it works out. I wish I could only buy the connectors, and then buy a good quality optical cable.

I don't like Clarion cables too much.

Congrats on the review! Can't wait to receive my BitOne. It is coming from the US. It arrived in Brazil today now it needs to go through customs. Another week or so and I should have it!


----------



## ErinH

dca006 will work, too.

You just need the proper cable. They have different ends on them. 'old' and 'new'. and they come in various lengths. The connectors are color coded for transmitting (grey) and receiving (black) at the ends. 

'old' connector works with the drz.


----------



## Ianaconi

So I need to change the black connector, correct?


----------



## ErinH

you'd just be cutting off the black connector end altogether. then strip back the housing on the cable to expose the bare toslink, slip the cable into that connector, and lock the connector in place. no soldering, no nothing. simple as pie.


----------



## Ianaconi

Sweet. I am gonna look for this cable, since my Bitone is arriving in a few days.


----------



## wedoca

I recently discovered that in order to make my new set up active and have all the tuning capabilities, a processor is what I needed. I've been seeing lots of Bit1 reviews and so far it's mostly positive; now the question is this, I have the Mcintosh MX4000/MDA4000 (DAC) combo, is it possible to use the DAC with the Bit1? Is there anybody here who've done that?


----------



## SteveH!

that's not too hard to accomplish. just install the bit one after the mda4000 and connect your amps to the bit's outputs as you need to. the good news is that you will beable to still use the volume section of you mac combo.


----------



## Buzzman

SteveH! said:


> that's not too hard to accomplish. just install the bit one after the mda4000 and connect your amps to the bit's outputs as you need to. the good news is that you will beable to still use the volume section of you mac combo.


If you intend to utilize the MDA4000 you will be limited to analog outputs only going into the Bit One. Otherwise, you can bypass the MDA4000 and use the digital outputs off the head unit directly into the Bit One.


----------



## ErinH

Buzzman said:


> If you intend to utilize the MDA4000 you will be limited to analog outputs only going into the Bit One. Otherwise, you can bypass the MDA4000 and use the digital outputs off the head unit directly into the Bit One.


Yep. Which is exactly why I planned to use the optical connection straight to the bit one.

Of course, then you are indeed bypassing the Mc DAC... :/


----------



## Buzzman

bikinpunk said:


> Yep. Which is exactly why I planned to use the optical connection straight to the bit one.
> 
> Of course, then you are indeed bypassing the Mc DAC... :/


Yeah, the tradeoff for a more direct signal path. But, I have heard that the DSP based analogue converter in the Bit One sounds pretty good. I will soon find out first hand.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Buzzman said:


> Yeah, the tradeoff for a more direct signal path. But, I have heard that the DSP based analogue converter in the Bit One sounds pretty good. I will soon find out first hand.


I wouldn't say pretty good, I would say outstanding. It sounded better then the DEQ-P9. When I tested it with the DEX-P9

And for those who want to know. The DEX-P9 and the Eclipse ECD-416 and 510 *DOES NOT*send the turner over the optical output, So Peter ( autofile ) is correct. I tested them all with the Bit One, I got some bad info, but the DEX-P9 does do digital volume control. And don't sell the analog input short on it either it sounded great also.


----------



## Buzzman

Here-I-Come said:


> I wouldn't say pretty good, I would say outstanding. It sounded better then the DEQ-P9. When I tested it with the DEX-P9 . . .


Wow, Mark. That is quite a statement. Now I am really looking forward to checking out my optical digital connection.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Buzzman said:


> Wow, Mark. That is quite a statement. Now I am really looking forward to checking out my optical digital connection.


That is MHO and only mine, but it is what I heard a long with the owner of the car. He want one unit the DRC starting going crazy. He said once all the bugs are worked out he will be buying one.

I listen to Steve Anderson's Lexus, which runs it as you do with the DRZ and man this car sounded great and when I demo it, it was running analog. Becuase I was controlling the volume from the DRZ, but he had an optical cable connect also.

Sorry pictures are crappy, my DC sucks, need to buy a new one.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Hi Buzz have you tried the Excel RTA I sent you.


----------



## Buzzman

Here-I-Come said:


> Hi Buzz have you tried the Excel RTA I sent you.


Mark, not yet because I am changing a BUNCH of things in my system (new sub, mids and midbass, and new amps for tweeters and mids) and didn't want to do the work twice. I got my new midranges a few days ago, and my other items are on their way from Japan. So, I expect to have everything in place and ready for tuning next week.


----------



## thbugman

I am up in the air about using my Bit One. The Bit One got here late and we couldn't wait to start the install.My friend and i just finished. It sounds great now.....Do i even begin to mess with it? hmmmm


----------



## t3sn4f2

thbugman said:


> I am up in the air about using my Bit One. The Bit One got here late and we couldn't wait to start the install.My friend and i just finished. It sounds great now.....Do i even begin to mess with it? hmmmm


DON'T EVER PLUG IN OR UNPLUG THE DRC WHILE THE BIT ONE IS ON!


----------



## Buzzman

thbugman said:


> I am up in the air about using my Bit One. The Bit One got here late and we couldn't wait to start the install.My friend and i just finished. It sounds great now.....Do i even begin to mess with it? hmmmm


It sounds like you have it installed already, so what do you mean "mess with it?"


----------



## thbugman

Completed the install without the Bit One.


----------



## Ozziefudd

Buzzman said:


> :laugh: I figured as much.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, sounds like it. Fortunately, mine has been trouble free, and sounds killer. But, keeping my fingers crossed, too. Good luck.



In the same boat, keeping my fingers crossed since mine has been trouble free and sounds killer after the original one(one of the first 40 shipped) was replaced because of the hardware/firmware issue.

Usaci Judges at Padre seemed to like how mine sounded as well since I did take home some SQ hardware.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Ozziefudd said:


> In the same boat, keeping my fingers crossed since mine has been trouble free and sounds killer after the original one(one of the first 40 shipped) was replaced because of the hardware/firmware issue.
> 
> Usaci Judges at Padre seemed to like how mine sounded as well since I did take home some SQ hardware.


This is way I hope my new unit is trouble free, the thing has sound to die for, but man all the units that are bad is making my a little wearily. I just hoping and preying.


----------



## michaelsil1

Don,

Congratulations on your marriage. 

I just received a BNIB Audison Bit One as a present (fellow DIYMA); I didn't know what to say. :lipsrsealed:


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> Don,
> 
> Congratulations on your marriage.
> 
> I just received a BNIB Audison Bit One as a present (fellow DIYMA); I didn't know what to say. :lipsrsealed:


Michael, wow, a Bit One as a gift!   Here are a couple of suggestions of what you can say to your friend: I Love you man!! You can't have this back, you know. 

And, thanks for the kind words re my marriage.


----------



## Buzzman

Ozziefudd said:


> In the same boat, keeping my fingers crossed since mine has been trouble free and sounds killer after the original one(one of the first 40 shipped) was replaced because of the hardware/firmware issue.
> 
> Usaci Judges at Padre seemed to like how mine sounded as well since I did take home some SQ hardware.


Congratulations on the SQ hardware. The Bit One is taking a bit of a beating on this forum PR wise because of some people having issues, so it's good to see some of those not having problems stating so and affirming the same findings I had about its sonic virtues. Good luck.


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> Michael, wow, a Bit One as a gift!   Here are a couple of suggestions of what you can say to your friend: I Love you man!! You can't have this back, you know.
> 
> And, thanks for the kind words re my marriage.


Since it was a gift from two DIYMA members they would have to cut it in half if they wanted it back.


----------



## BigRed

i have a saw that can do that


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Buzzman said:


> Congratulations on the SQ hardware. The Bit One is taking a bit of a beating on this forum PR wise because of some people having issues, so it's good to see some of those not having problems stating so and *affirming the same findings I had about its sonic virtues*. Good luck.


I'm going to say it again and agree with you. The sound I heard from this unit, has me wishing in the worst way, my second unit is trouble free.

And michaelsil1, you have been blessed if the unit is problem free. I don't think I have ever been so happy and pissed at the same time about anything as I am with the Bit One.


----------



## Buzzman

BigRed said:


> i have a saw that can do that


:laugh: Don't give those DIY'ers any ideas. 

Hey Jim, did you get the files I sent you? Have you started your Bit One install yet?


----------



## Buzzman

Here-I-Come said:


> I'm going to say it again and agree with you. The sound I heard from this unit, has me wishing in the worst way, my second unit is trouble free.
> 
> And michaelsil1, you have been blessed if the unit is problem free. I don't think I have ever been so happy and pissed at the same time about anything as I am with the Bit One.


Hey Mark, I have got my fingers crossed for you too bro. The SQ on this thing is killer. I hope that at some point in the future it becomes possible to make DSP changes without the laptop. I wanted to do some tweaking tonight and my laptop was dead.  So, now I have to wait for it to charge up.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Buzzman said:


> Hey Mark, I have got my fingers crossed for you too bro. The SQ on this thing is killer. I hope that at some point in the future it becomes possible to make DSP changes without the laptop. I wanted to do some tweaking tonight and my laptop was dead.  So, now I have to wait for it to charge up.



At this point man, some may say I'm crazy and I have said other wise before now, but I think as long as the F'ing DRC doesn't flake out or cause the beeping I will be fine. If I get whine I will remove the board from its case (the cause of the whine) And make my own case out of plexi. I liked the sound that much. And when Audison figures out a fix for the case have them to send me a new/replacement.

I built a carputer and bought a 11" wide LCD with VGA input, just so I will not need a laptop to tune with. I will need to do is plug the USB into a remotely mount USB jack and start tunning. The carputer will be used for tuning the Bit One, net access, Navi and video/music when I not using the Head Unit.

The 11" wide carputer and a 10" wide displaying the output from a Gen 1 HKS CAMP system, that will be used as a Cluster, will be mount in the center dash/console.


----------



## wedoca

Apparently the Bitone sounds so good that some of you would take a chance and getting a problematic unit; at the meantime I think I'll hold off till Audison remedy the issue. Btw how is the Bit1 compare to the DSP6? Below are my set up and I'll be getting a Rainbow 10' later. I hate my stock stereo in my 09 Camry so should I wait for the fixed Bit1 or get something good/reliable now and be done with it?

HU: Mcintosh MX4000/MDA4000 combo
Tweet: Rainbow CAL27
Mid: ScanSpeak Illuminator 8ohm (thanks for npdang)
Rear: Rainbow DreamLine
Amp: Mcintosh MC431M
Sub: "____" 10'?

What's the best way to set it up with the Bit1 if I do get it?


----------



## wedoca

Apparently the Bitone sounds so good that some of you would take a chance and getting a problematic unit; at the meantime I think I'll hold off till Audison remedy the issue. Btw how is the Bit1 compare to the DSP6? Below are my set up and I'll be getting a Rainbow 10' later. I hate my stock stereo in my 09 Camry so should I wait for the fixed Bit1 or get something good/reliable now and be done with it?

HU: Mcintosh MX4000/MDA4000 combo
Tweet: Rainbow CAL27
Mid: ScanSpeak Illuminator 8ohm (thanks for npdang)
Rear: Rainbow DreamLine
Amp: Mcintosh MC431M
Sub: "____" 10'?

What's the best way to set it up with the Bit1 if I do get it?


----------



## Buzzman

Here-I-Come said:


> At this point man, some may say I'm crazy and I have said other wise before now, but I think as long as the F'ing DRC doesn't flake out or cause the beeping I will be fine. If I get whine I will remove the board from its case (the cause of the whine) And make my own case out of plexi. I liked the sound that much. And when Audison figures out a fix for the case have them to send me a new/replacement. . . .


Mark, I don't agree with this plan. Why do this when you can exchange the unit? There has to be a reasonable limit to this DIY approach. And, I would be surprised if Elettromedia goes along with this.


----------



## Buzzman

Over the weekend I made a couple of changes that turned out to be monumental. First, I moved my Tru Technology SSLD6 to follow the Bit One in my signal path. Since the Tru line driver is 6 channel, I have channels 1 and 2 from the Bit One going directly to my tweeter amp, and the remaining outputs from the Bit One going to the Tru line driver, and from there to the applicable amps. I then recalibrated the Bit One by resetting the input sensitivity levels as in the original set-up. With the Tru line driver no longer in front of it, the input sensitivity setting for the Bit One will definitely change. Well, all I can say is GLORY HALLELUJAH!  Amazing dynamics, and much greater headroom. With the line driver preceding the Bit One and its gain pots turned to max, and the DRZ output level set at the same number as it is now, I had to turn to volume level on the Bit One's DRC up as high as -4 to get any significant SPL in my car. Now, the gain levels on the Tru line driver are between 50% and 75% on the various channels, and if I turn the DRC controller to -16 the SPL is greater than it was before when turned to -4. In addition, I have noticed greater depth, resolution and image focus. There is a tad more background noise as would be expected, but nothing I find objectionable, and I might be able to reduce that my turning down gains on my tweeter and midrange amps. 

I received today the optical cable for my DRZ, and the toslink connectors I need to modify it to fit the Bit One. That's going in tomorrow and I will amend my review to reflect what I hear.

Finally, I added the Morel Ultimo 12 to my system. Suffice to say, I won't be looking for a new subwoofer anytime soon. This sub is absolutely glorious. Review to come.


----------



## volker

I can't tell you how refreshing it is to read about someone having a blast with the BitOne, not just problems.
Mine is still in the box, so is all my gear, earliest starting date for my install will be mid April. Hope I won't have any issues (*knock on wood*).


----------



## Buzzman

volker said:


> I can't tell you how refreshing it is to read about someone having a blast with the BitOne, not just problems.
> Mine is still in the box, so is all my gear, earliest starting date for my install will be mid April. Hope I won't have any issues (*knock on wood*).


Yeah, I feel for the guys having issues, but the readers need to know about the good results as well. Good luck with yours when you get around to installing it.


----------



## michaelsil1

What toslink end is needed (DRZ9255), I was asked if it was the old or new toslink.


----------



## CraigE

Buzzman said:


> Yeah, I feel for the guys having issues, but the readers need to know about the good results as well.



Same here.
I feel bad that I'm luv'n the B1, when others are having problems with it.


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> What toslink end is needed (DRZ9255), I was asked if it was the old or new toslink.


Michael, you need the DCA-005 optical cable, available from Pac Parts, Clarion's West Coast distributor (Consumer Electronic Parts and Accessories at PacParts, Inc.) - by the way the model # is also the part #. You will also need a toslink connector as the Clarion cable does not use a toslink connector. You can order a couple (an extra one just in case) from Lifatec: Toslink Connectors, Fiber Optics and Termination Tools

Then, you simply need to replace the Clarion connector on the "receiving" end of the cable with the new toslink connector as the instructions say, plug into the optical input of the Bit One, make sure you have the optical input selected during the set-up process of the Bit One, select digital out on the DRZ, and voila, you have a direct all digital connection to the Bit One.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Buzzman said:


> Mark, I don't agree with this plan. Why do this when you can exchange the unit? There has to be a reasonable limit to this DIY approach. And, I would be surprised if Elettromedia goes along with this.



Because exchanging the unit may not result in a good unit. This has been proven on this forum. 

Larry Fredericks of Elettromdeia, Yousseff Phillips of Advanced and my dealer Joe, all have told me to do exactly that....take the circuit board out of the case. This blew me away that they would even suggest a customer handle the issues own their own. I have never encountered this approach from mfr. to customer. I suppose, if I were Elettromedia, I would REQUIRE that the unit be shipped back before ANY DIY methods were implemented. So I am surprised. Also, I think their requests are more about a temporary diagnosis and troubleshooting versus a permanent approach.

On the other hand, I suppose your response to the above statement was basically saying the same thing....okay to troubleshoot, but not to plan on leaving it that way permanently.

Let me also support your thread by saying the following. I realize I am slamming the Bit One pretty hard in other threads on this forum, plus I was the one who posted pretty telltale videos on YouTube. But I REALLY wish my Bit One were flaw free. That thing is just a beauty. This is why I named my own thread "genius to junk." Because right now, "my" Bit One is just that...both genius and junk. I REALLY wish I could fix the issue and move on to the real tweaking like you are doing. I too am happy that you are really enjoying it. So I will be following your thread with envy.

Run like the wind!


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> Michael, you need the DCA-005 optical cable, available from Pac Parts, Clarion's West Coast distributor (Consumer Electronic Parts and Accessories at PacParts, Inc.) - by the way the model # is also the part #. You will also need a toslink connector as the Clarion cable does not use a toslink connector. You can order a couple (an extra one just in case) from Lifatec: Toslink Connectors, Fiber Optics and Termination Tools
> 
> Then, you simply need to replace the Clarion connector on the "receiving" end of the cable with the new toslink connector as the instructions say, plug into the optical input of the Bit One, make sure you have the optical input selected during the set-up process of the Bit One, select digital out on the DRZ, and voila, you have a direct all digital connection to the Bit One.


Don thank you. I'm almost ready to install and was wondering if there were any issues with running Windows Vista?


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> Don thank you. I'm almost ready to install and was wondering if there were any issues with running Windows Vista?


Not that I am aware of. My laptop uses Vista and I have had no problems.


----------



## Buzzman

ARCuhTEK said:


> Because exchanging the unit may not result in a good unit. This has been proven on this forum.
> 
> Larry Fredericks of Elettromdeia, Yousseff Phillips of Advanced and my dealer Joe, all have told me to do exactly that....take the circuit board out of the case. This blew me away that they would even suggest a customer handle the issues own their own. I have never encountered this approach from mfr. to customer. I suppose, if I were Elettromedia, I would REQUIRE that the unit be shipped back before ANY DIY methods were implemented. So I am surprised. Also, I think their requests are more about a temporary diagnosis and troubleshooting versus a permanent approach.
> 
> On the other hand, I suppose your response to the above statement was basically saying the same thing....okay to troubleshoot, but not to plan on leaving it that way permanently.
> 
> Let me also support your thread by saying the following. I realize I am slamming the Bit One pretty hard in other threads on this forum, plus I was the one who posted pretty telltale videos on YouTube. But I REALLY wish my Bit One were flaw free. That thing is just a beauty. This is why I named my own thread "genius to junk." Because right now, "my" Bit One is just that...both genius and junk. I REALLY wish I could fix the issue and move on to the real tweaking like you are doing. I too am happy that you are really enjoying it. So I will be following your thread with envy.
> 
> Run like the wind!


I am surprised they would tell you it was OK for you to remove the circuit board. But then again, they obviously plan to stand behind the product. 

Thanks for your positive words also. I know you are going through hell, and hope your experience with the Bit One turns out to be a positive one.


----------



## Buzzman

CraigE said:


> Same here.
> I feel bad that I'm luv'n the B1, when others are having problems with it.


Hey Craig, where in LA are you? I am on the West side. Not too often I see another senior citizen like me on this forum.  We should try to get together for some listening sessions.


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> Not too often I see another senior citizen like me on this forum.


How old do you have to be for the Senior Citizen Award?


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> How old do you have to be for the Senior Citizen Award?


:laugh: North of 50. 

Michael, you know exactly what I am talking about having attended all those So Cal meets together and having to introduce these kids to "old school" music.


----------



## volker

and just when you thought it is save to settle down, The Dead go back on tour


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> :laugh: North of 50.
> 
> Michael, you know exactly what I am talking about having attended all those So Cal meets together and having to introduce these kids to "old school" music.


Beethoven's Violin Concerto with an Audison Bit One. :nice:


----------



## CraigE

Buzzman said:


> Hey Craig, where in LA are you? I am on the West side. Not too often I see another senior citizen like me on this forum.  We should try to get together for some listening sessions.


I am in the Los Feliz Area, I think we talked about this in a PM.
Don't you remember ?
You know.... the memory is the second thing to go.


----------



## n_olympios

What's the first again? I forget...


----------



## CraigE

n_olympios said:


> What's the first again? I forget...



I can't remember either.
Any young guys remember ?


----------



## michaelsil1

n_olympios said:


> What's the first again? I forget...


Rock Hard Erections.


----------



## michaelsil1

Do we skip this step: OEM source de-equalization?


----------



## DT053

What is the incremental steps for the EQ and Delay functions? 

Something like +/- 1hz for for the EQ and 0.50ms for the delay or do you set the delay based on the sampling frequency and how many cycles?

Thanks
dT


----------



## buggsson

DT053 said:


> What is the incremental steps for the EQ and Delay functions?
> 
> Something like +/- 1hz for for the EQ and 0.50ms for the delay or do you set the delay based on the sampling frequency and how many cycles?
> 
> Thanks
> dT


I don't know if this is what you were asking about, but it is from the short version of the manual.


Equalizer Filter type 31 Band, ISO 1/3 Oct, 20 Hz÷20 kHz
Equalizer Gain +/- 12 dB


Delay 0÷22 ms (748 cm / 294.5 inch)


----------



## DT053

Thanks for the reply. OK now I understand it uses a graphic EQ and not a parametric, but what about the delay steps from 0ms to 22ms, how are they broken up... 0.1ms...0.5mm..1.0ms Just trying to figure if the resolution is fine enough? I currently use sigma studio and it totally different, so sorry if I'm not explaining myself well enough.

Thanks again,

dT


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

DT053 said:


> Thanks for the reply. OK now I understand it uses a graphic EQ and not a parametric, but what about the delay steps from 0ms to 22ms, how are they broken up... 0.1ms...0.5mm..1.0ms Just trying to figure if the resolution is fine enough? I currently use sigma studio and it totally different, so sorry if I'm not explaining myself well enough.
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> dT



Time Alignment
Distance: 2.8 ÷ 748 cm / 1.1 ÷ 294.5 inches
Delay: 0 ÷ 22 ms
Steps: 0.08 ms, 2.8 cm, 1.1 inch


----------



## chad

ewwww, no parametric? classy


----------



## DT053

Thanks for the clarification on the delay settings, I was hoping the resolution would be a little finer than that. 


Thanks
dT


----------



## Buzzman

volker said:


> and just when you thought it is save to settle down, The Dead go back on tour


:laugh: I hear you. And, my wife and I saw Tom Jones a couple of weeks ago. But, I tell you, the old man still has "IT" and could teach these young singers a thing or two. His voice was magnificent, especially when you consider he is 70 years old. And, the dude had women screaming and throwing panties, shoes and bras at him on stage.   It was amazing.


----------



## Buzzman

CraigE said:


> I am in the Los Feliz Area, I think we talked about this in a PM.
> Don't you remember ?
> You know.... the memory is the second thing to go.


We did? Senior moment. :laugh: PM me your telephone # and I will give you a call.


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> Do we skip this step: OEM source de-equalization?


Yes, because you are not using the OEM head unit.


----------



## michaelsil1

I installed and powered up the Bit One today without a hitch. 

I didn't notice any noise ; I'll dial it in tomorrow and see what it can do. :ears:



Don,

Where do I find my Sub Woofer control on the DRZ now?


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> I installed and powered up the Bit One today without a hitch.
> 
> I didn't notice any noise ; I'll dial it in tomorrow and see what it can do. :ears:
> 
> 
> 
> Don,
> 
> Where do I find my Sub Woofer control on the DRZ now?


Michael, way to go! Congrats. You no longer can use the sub control on the DRZ. When you set up the Bit One you should have assigned a channel to your sub. I used Channel 7. Then when you go to the output levels tab on the main screen you can set the gain for that channel to your satisfaction. There is also a sub volume control menu on the pc, but you would want to use the DRC to adjust that if you want to do so. If you depress the sel button on the DRC, the menu changes and you will see a screen that. gives you a sub volume choice.


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> I installed and powered up the Bit One today without a hitch.
> 
> I didn't notice any noise ; I'll dial it in tomorrow and see what it can do. :ears:
> 
> 
> 
> Don,
> 
> Where do I find my Sub Woofer control on the DRZ now?


Michael, way to go! Congrats. You no longer can use the sub control on the DRZ. When you set up the Bit One you should have assigned a channel to your sub. I used Channel 7. Then when you go to the output levels tab on the main screen you can set the gain for that channel to your satisfaction. There is also a sub volume control menu on the pc, but you would want to use the DRC to adjust that if you want to do so. If you depress the sel button on the DRC, the menu changes and you will see a screen that. gives you a sub volume choice.


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> Michael, way to go! Congrats. You no longer can use the sub control on the DRZ. When you set up the Bit One you should have assigned a channel to your sub. I used Channel 7. Then when you go to the output levels tab on the main screen you can set the gain for that channel to your satisfaction. There is also a sub volume control menu on the pc, but you would want to use the DRC to adjust that if you want to do so. If you depress the sel button on the DRC, the menu changes and you will see a screen that. gives you a sub volume choice.


I'm waiting for the DCA-005 and the Toslink. I'm also waiting for my Microphone to get back from being Calibrated. I think the next time you hear my car it should be a little smoother. Looking forward to hearing yours as well.


----------



## Buzzman

Ooops. Dbl Post. Blame the BlackBerry.


----------



## n_olympios

Nah it does that lately, all the time.


----------



## veloze

michaelsil1 said:


> I installed and powered up the Bit One today without a hitch.
> 
> I didn't notice any noise ; I'll dial it in tomorrow and see what it can do. :ears:


Hey Mike, that's awesome!! I'm so freaking jealous that you got the BitOne before I did, and I can't wait to listen to it.

I had the opportunity to listen to the Buzzman's car yesterday and let me tell you "Holy Jeeezus"  that's one helluva unit. The sound was so rich, dynamic and very natural. :bowdown: Man, I can't wait to get my hands in one of this. 

Get the install done properly, and bring the Avalon to Eugene's party for the unveiling.


----------



## michaelsil1

veloze said:


> Hey Mike, that's awesome!! I'm so freaking jealous that you got the BitOne before I did, and I can't wait to listen to it.
> 
> I had the opportunity to listen to the Buzzman's car yesterday and let me tell you "Holy Jeeezus"  that's one helluva unit. The sound was so rich, dynamic and very natural. :bowdown: Man, I can't wait to get my hands in one of this.
> 
> Get the install done properly, and bring the Avalon to Eugene's party for the unveiling.


I did get the install done properly  

I'm waiting for my Microphone so I can get that Buzzman sound.


----------



## michaelsil1

Here's a little update as to how the Bit One is behaving. :kiss:


Too bad the operator is :listenup:


----------



## veloze

michaelsil1 said:


> Here's a little update as to how the Bit One is behaving. :kiss:
> 
> 
> Too bad the operator is :listenup:


So, what's going on now? Is anyone helping you with the software? I just hear that a new firmware update should be coming up.


----------



## michaelsil1

veloze said:


> So, what's going on now? Is anyone helping you with the software? I just hear that a new firm update should be coming up.


Nothing new; tuning is always a ******* and now I have so many more options. 

The Software is pretty straight forward. Audison told me there was a new update; It hasn't made it to the download site yet.


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> Nothing new; tuning is always a ******* and now I have so many more options.
> 
> The Software is pretty straight forward. Audison told me there was a new update; It hasn't made it to the download site yet.


Michael, now you have an embarrasment of riches and you don't know what to do with yourself.


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> Michael, now you have an embarrasment of riches and you don't know what to do with yourself.


I definitely have some tuning decisions to make. :huh2:

I just got my Microphone back so tuning is going to be a little easier now.


----------



## thesoundxperience

Check out the link to a review done by a car audio web magazine in UK:
Talk Audio - Audison Bit One


----------



## michaelsil1

I'm getting intermittent noise (Hiss), anyone else experiencing this. :worried:

I've had this happen twice after listening for awhile.


----------



## Buzzman

thesoundxperience said:


> Check out the link to a review done by a car audio web magazine in UK:
> Talk Audio - Audison Bit One


Thanks for the link. Great review, and confirms why people are going ga-ga over the SQ of this unit, even if it's driving them nuts with operational issues.


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> I'm getting intermittent noise (Hiss), anyone else experiencing this. :worried:
> 
> I've had this happen twice after listening for awhile.


Hmmmm. And you are sure it's not noise from the music track?


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> Hmmmm. And you are sure it's not noise from the music track?


Yes I'm sure. I Mute the output from the HU and the DRC and there's a lot of hiss; like I said it doesn't happen all the time just twice so far.


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> Yes I'm sure. I Mute the output from the HU and the DRC and there's a lot of hiss; like I said it doesn't happen all the time just twice so far.


I haven't had that particular noise issue, but you should definitely monitor it. I have found that often times if you "reinstall" the Bit One and go through the initial set-up process, that fixes things. That said, I am getting a replacement unit as I am not able to execute the DRC upgrade and mine is evidencing issues I don't want to deal with if they get worse, such as the sound of firecrackers when I run the set up sine wave tone, a channel dropping out, etc.


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> I haven't had that particular noise issue, but you should definitely monitor it. I have found that often times if you "reinstall" the Bit One and go through the initial set-up process, that fixes things. That said, I am getting a replacement unit as I am not able to execute the DRC upgrade and mine is evidencing issues I don't want to deal with if they get worse, such as the sound of firecrackers when I run the set up sine wave tone, a channel dropping out, etc.


Damn, I was looking forward to hearing it this Saturday.


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> Damn, I was looking forward to hearing it this Saturday.


Michael, do not despair my friend. The new one is going in on Friday, I will do some tuning Friday afternoon/evening, and the unveiling on Saturday.  Team Phass U.S.


----------



## CraigE

Buzzman said:


> Michael, do not despair my friend. The new one is going in on Friday, I will do some tuning Friday afternoon/evening, and the unveiling on Saturday.  Team Phass U.S.




I'm looking forward to seeing and hearing the "Buzzmobile" also.


----------



## n_olympios

Buzzman said:


> Team Phass U.S.


How many are there in the Team?


----------



## Buzzman

n_olympios said:


> How many are there in the Team?


Thus far, myself and Veloze. I am the new U.S. distributor and the team will be assembled slowly with audiophile goals in mind.


----------



## braves6117

Buzzman, I saw your post stating that you could hear no difference between analog and digital input to the Bitone. 

You would think that a bypasssing one of the analogue to digital conversions within the BitOne would reduce noise, but thats not the case via your testing correct, crystal clear either way?


----------



## Buzzman

braves6117 said:


> Buzzman, I saw your post stating that you could hear no difference between analog and digital input to the Bitone.
> 
> You would think that a bypasssing one of the analogue to digital conversions within the BitOne would reduce noise, but thats not the case via your testing correct, crystal clear either way?


Yes, using the Clarion DRZ9255, I could not discern any difference, sonically, between the analog and the digital outputs. I am using a Clarion DCA005 optical cable, with the receiving end modified to use a toslink connector that is connected to the Bit one. I am not sure if this result is a testament to the quality of the DRZ's analog output stage, or the quality of the Bit One's conversion of the digital signal to analog. Results may well be different with a different head unit.


----------



## BigRed

Installed my bit one 2 days ago. Absolutely no issues at all. no clicking sounds, engine wine etc. I am very impressed with this unit. I did a de-equalization as well, and that helped out alot considering I am using the high level inputs.


----------



## n_olympios

Buzzman said:


> Thus far, myself and Veloze. I am the new U.S. distributor and the team will be assembled slowly with audiophile goals in mind.


Well good luck to you then sir. I always had a thing for PHASS, although never owned any (so far). 

Sorry for the OT all.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Buzzman said:


> Yes, using the Clarion DRZ9255, I could not discern any difference, sonically, between the analog and the digital outputs. I am using a Clarion DCA005 optical cable, with the receiving end modified to use a toslink connector that is connected to the Bit one. I am not sure if this result is a testament to the quality of the DRZ's analog output stage, or the quality of the Bit One's conversion of the digital signal to analog. Results may well be different with a different head unit.


Sounds like a big testament to the DRZ output stage and to the BitOne's Conversion. With my ECD-510 I could tell a difference, I will have to admit it wasn't a crazy big difference, but i could tell a difference. The music got a little me dynamic and sound a tad bit cleaner. But honestly I could live with both. So that is a testament to what the BitOne is doing also. That makes me want to try my DRZ also. If the analog sounds that good, I could use the DRZ for volume control and no need for the DRC to be hooked (no chance of beep, beep, beep) as I have a carputer and can change my presets with the software if I want to. The USB connection is going to be a small linear actuator to plug and plug it when need automaticly when I need to use the software.(kind of cool I think).

Now I have a question for those you is using the BitOne concerning the time delay. When you choose, let say one of the center position and do your measure and input them, *Does the BitOne time align to the furthest away speaker placement or to the nearest speaker place?* Might sound like a crazy question and it seem like without a doubt the engineers would do the furthest way speaker placement as PLD is key in getting great imaging and staging in a car, but one never knows.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Here-I-Come said:


> Now I have a question for those you is using the BitOne concerning the time delay. When you choose, let say one of the center position and do your measure and input them, *Does the BitOne time align to the furthest away speaker placement or to the nearest speaker place?* Might sound like a crazy question and it seem like without a doubt the engineers would do the furthest way speaker placement as PLD is key in getting great imaging and staging in a car, but one never knows.


Based on what I see on the software interface it seems to me that the Bit One time aligns with the speaker furthermost away. Here is a screen shot. Take a look at the text under the Delay area (directly above the red text)









My response is a GUESS....not a fact. Maybe someone else knows for certain?


----------



## Buzzman

BigRed said:


> Installed my bit one 2 days ago. Absolutely no issues at all. no clicking sounds, engine wine etc. I am very impressed with this unit. I did a de-equalization as well, and that helped out alot considering I am using the high level inputs.


Jim, that's great news man. Are you using the latest 1.5 software and firmware? I am looking forward to hearing your new set-up at the next meet we both can attend.


----------



## Buzzman

n_olympios said:


> Well good luck to you then sir. I always had a thing for PHASS, although never owned any (so far).
> 
> Sorry for the OT all.


Thanks! I have found that Phass gets me closer to feeling the soul of the music and the artist's performance than anything I have used. The RE50 amplifier has been a revelation to me.


----------



## Buzzman

Here-I-Come said:


> Sounds like a big testament to the DRZ output stage and to the BitOne's Conversion. With my ECD-510 I could tell a difference, I will have to admit it wasn't a crazy big difference, but i could tell a difference. The music got a little me dynamic and sound a tad bit cleaner. But honestly I could live with both. So that is a testament to what the BitOne is doing also. That makes me want to try my DRZ also. If the analog sounds that good, I could use the DRZ for volume control and no need for the DRC to be hooked (no chance of beep, beep, beep) as I have a carputer and can change my presets with the software if I want to. The USB connection is going to be a small linear actuator to plug and plug it when need automaticly when I need to use the software.(kind of cool I think).
> 
> Now I have a question for those you is using the BitOne concerning the time delay. When you choose, let say one of the center position and do your measure and input them, *Does the BitOne time align to the furthest away speaker placement or to the nearest speaker place?* Might sound like a crazy question and it seem like without a doubt the engineers would do the furthest way speaker placement as PLD is key in getting great imaging and staging in a car, but one never knows.


The only reservation I have about your planned approach is the risk of overloading the input signal to the Bit One. This could occur if you forget the setting on the DRZ that was used to set the input sensitivity of the Bit One and exceed that level. In my set-up I set the input levels to the Bit One and leave the DRZ alone, using the DRC controller as my master volume level. It also seems to me that once you start using the DRZ to control volume, at any setting less than the maximum value used to set the Bit One's input sensitivity, you are not optimizing the signal to the Bit One. And, wouldn't it be a bit cumbersome to have to use a carputer to recall settings when with the DRC in place you just push a button? In my opinion the DRC offers too many conveniences to not use it. From what I am hearing the latest firmware updates are resolving many, if not all, of the issues that have presented problems. I would try to get a properly working full Bit One set-up and roll with it.


Regarding your question, I agree with Archutek.


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> Jim, that's great news man. Are you using the latest 1.5 software and firmware? I am looking forward to hearing your new set-up at the next meet we both can attend.


Jim is using the latest Firmware and Software. 

It's in his BMW


----------



## braves6117

Guys, regarding the de-equalization, in lay mens terms, is that simply allowing more lower frequency output at low volume, and less lower frequency output on higher volume (to prevent obscene heavy bass with high volume and prevent no bass on low volume)

Buzzman, I hope you don't mind questions, please let me know.

Also, I hope to make Sat and listen to your ride.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

And the de-equalization is only available to the person who is connecting to the Bit One via high level inputs from their HU. Correct?

The reason I ask, is that my AVIC-D3 has all sorts of controls available to it such as xo, eq and even sound staging (which I am not sure what that "technically" does).

I have chosen to turn off the loudness button, not make use of the xo's (of course) and IIRC you must select one of the 5-6 sound stage settings, but I have no idea which one is most "flat" because the interface only shows you pictures (for example...."sound studio" button has a pic of a generic sound studio...not an eq setting). I also set my eq to "flat".

All that having been said, I wish I could use the de-equalization feature during the set up of my Bit One, but I am using RCA's to connect to the Bit One....not high level.


----------



## Buzzman

braves6117 said:


> Guys, regarding the de-equalization, in lay mens terms, is that simply allowing more lower frequency output at low volume, and less lower frequency output on higher volume (to prevent obscene heavy bass with high volume and prevent no bass on low volume)


It's more than just giving you more or less bass. The entire frequency spectrum is affected. The de-equalization process flattens out the OEM response curve, allowing you to then use the Bit One and the DRC to EQ your system to audiophile standards, and use the DRC as your volume control. Even after a de-equalization, if you were to use your OEM HU to control the volume, you will end up experiencing the same issues you were trying to correct; namely, varying response curves as the volume changes. For those who want the simplicity and convenience of using their HU volume control, the Bit One allows you to do so and not suffer the sonic flaws when you change volume by utilizing its Dynamic EQ process. This permits you to set EQ for low and high volume levels.



braves6117 said:


> Buzzman, I hope you don't mind questions, please let me know.


Not at all. The purpose of a forum like this should be for all members to learn from each other.



braves6117 said:


> Also, I hope to make Sat and listen to your ride.


I hope you can make it. It looks like Eugene will have a nice turn out, and the tunes and sound should be great.


----------



## Buzzman

ARCuhTEK said:


> And the de-equalization is only available to the person who is connecting to the Bit One via high level inputs from their HU. Correct?


You really don't need the de-equalization process when running outputs from a non-factory HU because your system is not stifled by the factory EQ settings. But, you can still use the Bit One's Dynamic EQ feature when running low level outputs so that at low volume, for example, you can breathe more "life" into the music.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Buzzman said:


> The only reservation I have about your planned approach is the risk of overloading the input signal to the Bit One. This could occur if you forget the setting on the DRZ that was used to set the input sensitivity of the Bit One and exceed that level. In my set-up I set the input levels to the Bit One and leave the DRZ alone, using the DRC controller as my master volume level. It also seems to me that once you start using the DRZ to control volume, at any setting less than the maximum value used to set the Bit One's input sensitivity, you are not optimizing the signal to the Bit One. And, wouldn't it be a bit cumbersome to have to use a carputer to recall settings when with the DRC in place you just push a button? In my opinion the DRC offers too many conveniences to not use it. From what I am hearing the latest firmware updates are resolving many, if not all, of the issues that have presented problems. I would try to get a properly working full Bit One set-up and roll with it.
> 
> 
> Regarding your question, I agree with Archutek.


Not to cumbersome for this car, as its not a daily driver, its my comp car. And I agree about optimizing the signal. I was just talking out loud anyway. I will not change from my ECD-510 or ECD-416 unless they both go up in smoke. I do like the options the DRC gives.

Funny I never notice that little text under the delay settings. Cool.

Oh ya Arc did you see my post about the Carpc in the system diagram thread?


----------



## braves6117

I do have another question regarding those using one subwoofer with a BitOne....

My alpine PDX requires a left and right rca input, therefore, I assigned channel 7 and 8 BitOne outputs as left and right signals for the sub...

Is that the correct assignment, or should I be assinging one BitOne channel (say channel 7) as mono and split the rca output with a y adapter so both inputs on the amp are filled?

I assume the my current config is ok, but tuning would require touching both outputs..?


----------



## michaelsil1

braves6117 said:


> I do have another question regarding those using one subwoofer with a BitOne....
> 
> My alpine PDX requires a left and right rca input, therefore, I assigned channel 7 and 8 BitOne outputs as left and right signals for the sub...
> 
> Is that the correct assignment, or should I be assinging one BitOne channel (say channel 7) as mono and split the rca output with a y adapter so both inputs on the amp are filled?


I assigned 7 and 8 for my Sub, but you could use a Y adapter if you wanted to.


----------



## Buzzman

braves6117 said:


> I do have another question regarding those using one subwoofer with a BitOne....
> 
> My alpine PDX requires a left and right rca input, therefore, I assigned channel 7 and 8 BitOne outputs as left and right signals for the sub...
> 
> Is that the correct assignment, or should I be assinging one BitOne channel (say channel 7) as mono and split the rca output with a y adapter so both inputs on the amp are filled?
> 
> I assume the my current config is ok, but tuning would require touching both outputs..?


The answer, I think, depends on your amplifier. If it's a mono amp, I don't see the need to assign 2 channels on the output side of the Bit One. But if you did, it would not be a problem. If it's a stereo amp you are bridging, then I would assign 2 channels otherwise you will likely have insufficient gain.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

braves6117 said:


> I do have another question regarding those using one subwoofer with a BitOne....
> 
> My alpine PDX requires a left and right rca input, therefore, I assigned channel 7 and 8 BitOne outputs as left and right signals for the sub...
> 
> Is that the correct assignment, or should I be assinging one BitOne channel (say channel 7) as mono and split the rca output with a y adapter so both inputs on the amp are filled?
> 
> I assume the my current config is ok, but tuning would require touching both outputs..?


Interesting that you should ask this question. Because I had the exact issue you are inquiring about and I tried it two different ways. I think my results varied because of my amp. Here is what I did and learned:

1. I have a DLS A6 mono sub amp.
2. First attempt I used only channel 8 to a Y adapter to the left and right inputs of the amp. Sounded great.
3. Then tried a pair of RCA's running from channel 7 and 8 to the left and right inputs on the A6. What a HUGE difference! I even went back and forth between these two set ups and the result were VERY obvious. Running the pair of RCAs to the L/R inputs was MUCH much more powerful. 
4. I tweaked NO other settings in my test.

Like I said...maybe it is just how my amp is meant to be set up but it is different. I should also mention that during my set up I have input my system as having two rear subs, not just one. It is the only way for any signal to be sent to channel 7. Finally, I made sure that the distance measurements input into the delay area are identical for channel 7 and 8.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Here-I-Come said:


> Oh ya Arc did you see my post about the Carpc in the system diagram thread?


Yes indeed I did. That thread has turned a little nasty for my taste and I am afraid to say that I should have kept my mouth shut, but instead I did not and now I appear to be more of a guilty party in the mudlsinging over there. Really not my style but they managed to ruffle my feathers. I was really only trying to help before it got out of control.

Anyway, thank you for the answers. I can tell you I am very interested in the carputer in the future. But for now, as soon as my Bit One issue is resolved, I am good to go for a while. Meanwhile I will follow your advice on the website and go sneek around and learn a little.

As for the above posters who are getting together this weekend, being in NC I wont be able to attend, but I was wondering where it will be held.


----------



## michaelsil1

ARCuhTEK said:


> As for the above posters who are getting together this weekend, being in NC I wont be able to attend, but I was wondering where it will be held.



We're meeting in Glendale California; just one of many. 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/12-volt-events/56855-april-11th-so-cal-potluck.html


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Nice....thank you.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

ARCuhTEK said:


> Interesting that you should ask this question. Because I had the exact issue you are inquiring about and I tried it two different ways. I think my results varied because of my amp. Here is what I did and learned:
> 
> 1. I have a DLS A6 mono sub amp.
> 2. First attempt I used only channel 8 to a Y adapter to the left and right inputs of the amp. Sounded great.
> 3. Then tried a pair of RCA's running from channel 7 and 8 to the left and right inputs on the A6. What a HUGE difference! I even went back and forth between these two set ups and the result were VERY obvious. Running the pair of RCAs to the L/R inputs was MUCH much more powerful.
> 4. I tweaked NO other settings in my test.
> 
> Like I said...maybe it is just how my amp is meant to be set up but it is different. I should also mention that during my set up I have input my system as having two rear subs, not just one. It is the only way for any signal to be sent to channel 7. Finally, I made sure that the distance measurements input into the delay area are identical for channel 7 and 8.


Its the way the A6 is designed and your finding would be correct. I talked to a DLS Techs in Sweden about this a couple of years back. It's design to take a stereo input and do its on summing internal. He was saying something about running a dual mono input into the L/R channels causes a phase issue. Its the way the input circuit is designed. Not sure how it works as I'm no EE, but this is what he was telling. The thing I have notice is that the amps the need a mono input only, recommends you use on input, Left or right.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Here-I-Come said:


> Its the way the A6 is designed and your finding would be correct. I talked to a DLS Techs in Sweden about this a couple of years back. It's design to take a stereo input and do its on summing internal. He was saying something about running a dual mono input into the L/R channels causes a phase issue. Its the way the input circuit is designed. Not sure how it works as I'm no EE, but this is what he was telling. The thing I have notice is that the amps the need a mono input only, recommends you use on input, Left or right.


So by virtue of me using one RCA per channel from the Bit One to the A6 is an incorrect set up? I hear what you are telling me, but it seems strange they would create two inputs (L & R) and then tell you to only use one. I think I am missing something here.


----------



## Buzzman

ARCuhTEK said:


> So by virtue of me using one RCA per channel from the Bit One to the A6 is an incorrect set up? I hear what you are telling me, but it seems strange they would create two inputs (L & R) and then tell you to only use one. I think I am missing something here.


You are not doing anything wrong. The A6 takes the stereo signal you are feeding it, and sums that internally into a mono signal that is sent to the subwoofer. What Mark was saying is that this approach is unlike other mono amps that want you to send them only a single input signal for mono purposes.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Buzzman said:


> You are not doing anything wrong. The A6 takes the stereo signal you are feeding it, and sums that internally into a mono signal that is sent to the subwoofer. What Mark was saying is that this approach is unlike other mono amps that want you to send them only a single input signal for mono purposes.


Okay..thank you. This is definitely what I thought.

Braves, I guess the A6 is not a good example for answering your original question....


----------



## Buzzman

For all DRZ9255 owners who also use the Bit One, here is some great news: when you do the I/O Configurartion, you can turn the volume setting to 0 and not clip the Bit One, and not send a clipped output signal from the DRZ! At that setting, we measured as much as 3.5 Volts!  I am no longer using the Tru line driver in my system.


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> For all DRZ9255 owners who also use the Bit One, here is some great news: when you do the I/O Configurartion, you can turn the volume setting to 0 and not clip the Bit One, and not send a clipped output signal from the DRZ! At that setting, we measured as much as 3.5 Volts!  I am no longer using the Tru line driver in my system.


I went with +1 when I set it up I think that should be good as well; If not let me know.


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> I went with +1 when I set it up I think that should be good as well; If not let me know.


Michael, you might be close to clipping range. According to Elettromedia, the European techs tested a DRZ9255 and they found that at 0 the DRZ output voltage is the max the Bit One can handle. To be safe, you should do the configuration over set at 0.


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> Michael, you might be close to clipping range. According to Elettromedia, the European techs tested a DRZ9255 and they found that at 0 the DRZ output voltage is the max the Bit One can handle. To be safe, you should do the configuration over set at 0.


Maybe you're right, but the first time I set it up I went with zero and it didn't seem like enough. Then I went with +2 and it seemed like a little too much that's when I went with +1; it seems to be okay. I talked with Larry about it and he seemed to think I could go almost all the way up. The thing is how do you know when you've gone too far?


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> Maybe you're right, but the first time I set it up I went with zero and it didn't seem like enough. Then I went with +2 and it seemed like a little too much that's when I went with +1; it seems to be okay. I talked with Larry about it and he seemed to think I could go almost all the way up. The thing is how do you know when you've gone too far?


Well, when you have your laptop connected you can select the "Output Level" tab, and as you turn the volume on the head unit up, the clipping indicator will come on when you have reached that point. However, you will want to use the test tone on track one rather than music for more precision. I would rather be safe and use the 0 setting since the techs in Europe already tested our unit and determined that 0 was the optimal setting. Why take the chance?


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> Well, when you have your laptop connected you can select the "Output Level" tab, and as you turn the volume on the head unit up, the clipping indicator will come on when you have reached that point. However, you will want to use the test tone on track one rather than music for more precision. I would rather be safe and use the 0 setting since the techs in Europe already tested our unit and determined that 0 was the optimal setting. Why take the chance?


Yeah, I might as well change it to Zero.


----------



## CraigE

You can also see clipping of the HU thru the DRC, without the laptop connected.
There are instructions in the manual.
CAUTION be sure to lower the volume on the DRC before beginning. I go to minus 30.
Below is from page 37 of the manual, but you need to see the diagrams also.
I do this often because my OEM HU has no volume indicator.

 
- Auto IN Level Adj: if while listening the MASTER source 
volume moves and you don’t have any indications about 
its original level, to correctly set it back to the level it was 
when it was initially tuned, insert the “Installation CD” into 
the head unit, play track 1 and press the “yes” button on 
the DRC. Now adjust the MASTER source volume until the 
cursor (+) is on “0” and not over (to avoid the clipping)..


----------



## michaelsil1

Don,

I live close to you can I have a Demo when you fix the issues?

I did what you and Audison suggested, I set the Volume at Zero on the DRZ. 
It's a pain in the Ass to keep changing sh*t, but I want the best out of everything.


----------



## Buzzman

CraigE said:


> You can also see clipping of the HU thru the DRC, without the laptop connected.
> There are instructions in the manual.
> CAUTION be sure to lower the volume on the DRC before beginning. I go to minus 30.
> Below is from page 37 of the manual, but you need to see the diagrams also.
> I do this often because my OEM HU has no volume indicator.
> 
> 
> - Auto IN Level Adj: if while listening the MASTER source
> volume moves and you don’t have any indications about
> its original level, to correctly set it back to the level it was
> when it was initially tuned, insert the “Installation CD” into
> the head unit, play track 1 and press the “yes” button on
> the DRC. Now adjust the MASTER source volume until the
> cursor (+) is on “0” and not over (to avoid the clipping)..


But, if you rely on this approach you are only seeing clipping based on the original setting, upon which the Bit One determined it's input sensitivity. Thus, it's possible, for example, that if I had my DRZ volume level set at 20 when I did my initial set-up, that if I turn it to 10, I will clip the Bit One. Whereas, if I did the set-up all over, and used 10 as the starting point, the Bit One will not be clipped.


----------



## Buzzman

DRZ/Bit One Optical Update: 

I just realized that in order to hear the digital signal coming from the source, I needed to press the knob on the DRC to select the "optical" input, and not "master". That's what I get for not reading the manual closely. So, I now have to modify my original assessment of the analog vs. optical digital performance of the DRZ/Bit One combo. There is a difference, though not dramatic. I found that the optical option has what I would call a "blacker" background, with less grain. Not quieter in a noise sense, but against this background the midgrange and treble sound more rounded, with less apparent distortion. It's most noticeable on dynamic passages, where voice and instrumental crescendos don't have as much "bite" or "edge" to them. They are smoother, and still dynamic. I also find the bass to have just a tad more weight, which has the effect of adding a bit more body to the midrange. The placement of voices and instruments is a bit for focused. The sound stage also appears to be raised a bit. For my listening, I will continue to use the optical option. If you already have spent $ on the optical cabling for the DRZ, I now say, use it. If you haven't, the difference isn't dramatic enough to warrant the expenditure of time and $ on the cable, modification and install unless you really want that extra 10% - 15% improvement. The analog output stage of the DRZ is that good.


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> Don,
> 
> I live close to you can I have a Demo when you fix the issues?
> 
> I did what you and Audison suggested, I set the Volume at Zero on the DRZ.
> It's a pain in the Ass to keep changing sh*t, but I want the best out of everything.


Michael, I would be happy to get together with you once I have my Bit One issues resolved and give you a demo of Da Benz. 

Regarding changing settings, I hear you, but better safe than sorry.


----------



## michaelsil1

Don,

I'm glad to hear about the Optical improvement; I was dumbfounded to hear you say that there was no noticeable improvement going Digital to Digital.


Now I can go get the Cable I already ordered.


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> Michael, I would be happy to get together with you once I have my Bit One issues resolved and give you a demo of Da Benz.


Let me know when.


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> Let me know when.


Will do.


----------



## michaelsil1

I just installed the Optical Cable. 

I notice a little noise when there is nothing playing is anyone else experiencing this?


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> I just installed the Optical Cable.
> 
> I notice a little noise when there is nothing playing is anyone else experiencing this?


Michael, I assume that in the set-up process you selected "Optical" as one of the inputs, and that (unlike me the first few weeks) you have depressed the DRC Controller to select "Optical." If not, you might well be hearing analog noise. Also, take a look at the gains on the amp driving your tweeters, and when your laptop is connected, the output levels for the two channels dedicated to your tweeters. Background noise due to high gain settings in the treble range becomes much more noticeable when music is not playing.


----------



## Buzzman

*Bit One Update:*

Yesterday, I went to my installer to have the new Bit One (my third) that Elettromedia was sending me, installed. This one was supposed to have the current firmare installed in the processor and the DRC. I was hopeful, but since the last one I received was supposed to have been similarly upgraded and was not, I was a bit skeptical. Bit One #2 was hooked up to my laptop and was quickly revealed to still have firmware version 1.0.7.1. OK, no big deal, I just upgraded the firmware myself. But, just as with Bit One #1, I could not get my computer to execute the DRC firmware upgrade to 1.5. And, just like Bit One #1, Bit One #2 had a channel that would not output music. So, I had my fingers crossed about Bit One #3. Well, it arrived all shiny and new, was installed, I hooked up my laptop, and voila, firware version 1.0.7.1 again!  OK, I updated the firmware, but could not immediately confirm what firmware was on the DRC. So, I called Larry Penn of Elettromedia who was in So. Cal. troubleshooting Bit Ones with the powers that be at Elettromedia. He was shocked to hear that the one I received did not have the 1.5 firmware. After answering a few questions, he said he had to do some research and would call me back. Ten minutes later, at about 11:00 a.m, "Hi Don, this is Larry Penn. Ken Wiseman and I are going to drive up to Thousand Oaks and personally hand deliver a properly set-up Bit One to you."  Wow, the two of them were going to drive about 95 miles in LA traffic to make sure I had a properly working unit in my car!! Unbelievable. I have never heard of anything like this before. And, what made it even more shocking to me is that the Bit One is the ONLY Audison component I have in my ride. 

Fast forward to 2:30, Larry and Ken arrive, new Bit One box in hand, Larry jumps in my trunk, removes Bit One # 3, installs Bit One #4, watches me install the software etc., double checks my work, confirms that everything is OK, and I am again in Bit One heaven.  So, to Ken Wiseman, Larry Penn and the rest of the gang at Elettromedia USA, I say, THANKS for exhibiting the best customer service from a manufacturer I have ever experienced. :2thumbsup: And to all of you contemplating buying a Bit One, I say don't hesitate to jump in head first a month or so from now when the second generation unit hits the market because I am convinced the issues reported in the field will have been repaired. If you can't wait that long (and given the sonic results it delivers we Bit One owners will fully understand if you can't), Audison has been aggressively analyzing the current generation units and making necessary fixes, and with customer service like this, there is not much down side. But, wait, and you will be quite satisfied. 

So, the Buzzmobile is ready for auditions.


----------



## mhdena

Buzzman, pm sent to you.


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> Michael, I assume that in the set-up process you selected "Optical" as one of the inputs, and that (unlike me the first few weeks) you have depressed the DRC Controller to select "Optical." If not, you might well be hearing analog noise. Also, take a look at the gains on the amp driving your tweeters, and when your laptop is connected, the output levels for the two channels dedicated to your tweeters. Background noise due to high gain settings in the treble range becomes much more noticeable when music is not playing.


I read the Manual. 
There wasn't any noise in Analog, but now there's Morse Code in the Mid Range.

I have a pop when I switch the DRC to Optical and when I try to go back to Master the DRC will sometimes shutoff locking up the Bit One. I have to unplug the Power to the Bit One in order to get it to reset; if I don't the Bit One and Amps stay on.


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> I read the Manual.
> There wasn't any noise in Analog, but now there's Morse Code in the Mid Range.
> 
> I have a pop when I switch the DRC to Optical and when I try to go back to Master the DRC will sometimes shutoff locking up the Bit One. I have to unplug the Power to the Bit One in order to get it to reset; if I don't the Bit One and Amps stay on.


Geez.  Sorry to hear about this. I would suggest deinstalling everything, and removing the software and all other Bit One executables on your laptop, and reinstall everything all over again and go through the initial set-up. Before doing so do a hard reboot on the Bit One by removing the power plug when it is powered down, and plugging the power plug back in. It is a computer, and often these types of steps will fix the issues. Please report back.


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> Geez.  Sorry to hear about this. I would suggest deinstalling everything, and removing the software and all other Bit One executables on your laptop, and reinstall everything all over again and go through the initial set-up. Before doing so do a hard reboot on the Bit One by removing the power plug when it is powered down, and plugging the power plug back in. It is a computer, and often these types of steps will fix the issues. Please report back.


I did do the Hard Boot; that was the only way to get the unit working again.
Like I said I talked to Larry and he said get the new unit and be done with whatever is going on with the old ones.


I'm aware that it is a Computer and that there are always issues with new Technologies that are resolved over time. 


As an end user I don't like dealing with Beta; I want the real deal. I'll go get the new one when it's available and hopefully be done with it. Tuning is hard enough without the added headache of Hardware issues.


----------



## _Dejan_

michaelsil1 said:


> I read the Manual.
> There wasn't any noise in Analog, but now there's Morse Code in the Mid Range.
> 
> I have a pop when I switch the DRC to Optical and when I try to go back to Master the DRC will sometimes shutoff locking up the Bit One. I have to unplug the Power to the Bit One in order to get it to reset; if I don't the Bit One and Amps stay on.


What signal send your HU to Bit one? PCM 48kHz? Like Im say in one post my bit one lock If I select 192kHz/24Bit on my sound card... So only way is use 48kHz/24Bit...


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> I did do the Hard Boot; that was the only way to get the unit working again.
> Like I said I talked to Larry and he said get the new unit and be done with whatever is going on with the old ones.
> 
> 
> I'm aware that it is a Computer and that there are always issues with new Technologies that are resolved over time.
> 
> 
> As an end user I don't like dealing with Beta; I want the real deal. I'll go get the new one when it's available and hopefully be done with it. Tuning is hard enough without the added headache of Hardware issues.


I can understand you don't like dealing with "Beta," but I don't know that it's entirely accurate to call this product a 'beta." I am sure they cannot test for every variable in the field and have to rely on customer feedback to address unanticipated issues. That happens with just about every usable piece of technology. Replacing improperly working units have not been a problem for me. I might just be much more patient than others, and my issues arose long after I had it working and was seduced by the sound. But I fully understand those who want it working perfectly out of the box and have no patience for anything else. But, even with the new ones on the horizon, if mine were acting up I would have them exchange it for another with the hope that I will at least be able to listen to my system properly pending receipt of a replacement second generation unit.


----------



## Buzzman

_Dejan_ said:


> What signal send your HU to Bit one? PCM 48kHz? Like Im say in one post my bit one lock If I select 192kHz/24Bit on my sound card... So only way is use 48kHz/24Bit...


I am sending it a 96KHz/24 bit signal from my Clarion DRZ9255, and no problems thus far.


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> I can understand you don't like dealing with "Beta," but I don't know that it's entirely accurate to call this product a 'beta." I am sure they cannot test for every variable in the field and have to rely on customer feedback to address unanticipated issues. That happens with just about every usable piece of technology. Replacing improperly working units have not been a problem for me. I might just be much more patient than others, and my issues arose long after I had it working and was seduced by the sound. But I fully understand those who want it working perfectly out of the box and have no patience for anything else. But, even with the new ones on the horizon, if mine were acting up I would have them exchange it for another with the hope that I will at least be able to listen to my system properly pending receipt of a replacement second generation unit.


Beta or not to Beta that is the question. :jester:

I was hoping that all I would have to deal with was tuning the beast; not so. :shrug:


----------



## _Dejan_

Buzzman said:


> I am sending it a 96KHz/24 bit signal from my Clarion DRZ9255, and no problems thus far.


My work with 96kHz/24bit too, but I notice little sound quality decrease if I compare it with 48kHz/24bit... In both test Im listen same DVD(Carla Lother:100 Lovers - 96kHz/24bit)...


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> Beta or not to Beta that is the question. :jester:
> 
> I was hoping that all I would have to deal with was tuning the beast; not so. :shrug:


I hear you, man, it's tough to tune the beast.  But even that beast can be overcome.  PM me with some suggested times when you can come by to hear the Buzzmobile.


----------



## Buzzman

_Dejan_ said:


> My work with 96kHz/24bit too, but I notice little sound quality decrease if I compare it with 48kHz/24bit... In both test Im listen same DVD(Carla Lother:100 Lovers - 96kHz/24bit)...


Interesting, because I could not hear any difference between the two coming from the DRZ. If that continues to be the case I am just going to set it at 48KHz and call it a day.


----------



## JayinMI

Planning to purchase one of these after they "new" units come out in May. Out of curioisty, I may have uses for the Optical input *and* the Coaxial Digital input. Can I use these as well as high level? The manual I found online was very vague in this regard.

Ideally I plan to do the $6 Optical conversion on my factory radio for CD playback, and tap the coaxial out from my iPod to for the coax input and then tap the high level out of the radio for everything else.

Thanks,

Jay


----------



## ARCuhTEK

JayinMI said:


> Planning to purchase one of these after they "new" units come out in May. Out of curioisty, I may have uses for the Optical input *and* the Coaxial Digital input. Can I use these as well as high level? The manual I found online was very vague in this regard.
> 
> Ideally I plan to do the $6 Optical conversion on my factory radio for CD playback, and tap the coaxial out from my iPod to for the coax input and then tap the high level out of the radio for everything else.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jay


I am not sure how it would work to have both optical (from your CD playback on factory HU) and high level out from the same HU.

Would the high level not also carry the CD playback regardless of the optical conversion? Or perhaps you know already how that will work? I am curious.

I do know that the Bit One will take all those inputs, just not sure how it all untangles in the end.


----------



## JayinMI

Yeah, I understand that the high level signal will carry CD signals as well. I assumed I could switch inputs manually. I would need the high level out to carry my AM/FM and XM stuff. The Optical will carry the CD signal too, and hopefully a cleaner signal with a better noise floor. The optical out of the iPod is main because a) I can, and b) I hope it will also improve the noise floor on that source as well.

I figure by using the optical out, the CD signal won't be converted DA and then AD and then DA again...

Jay


----------



## michaelsil1

JayinMI said:


> I figure by using the optical out, the CD signal won't be converted DA and then AD and then DA again...
> 
> Jay


It doesn't seem to suffer much from all the conversions; I've used both.


----------



## JayinMI

I will probably *start* with just high level in, but if I get my hands on another factory radio, I'll probably give the conversion a go...of course, if I screwed up the radio I have now, I have 2 radios and an AVIC F90 BT in the garage 

Jay


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I have not used the optical outputs nor do I currently have my Bit One installed....but I am not aware of any way to switch between a high level signal and an optical signal unless you can do it manually at the HU. I suppose that is what you meant?

The details of the Bit One capabilities are slipping from my memory as it has been so long since I messed with mine...LOL


----------



## JayinMI

No, I figured it could be done from the Bitone. Since most sources aren't optical (or digital for that matter) even from an aftermarket stereo, I figured there had to be a way to manually switch. Does it just switch over when it sees a signal on the digital in? I would assume, then that if I weren't using the CD player, then it would take the high level in, but if it saw something on the optical input it would switch to it?

This seems the most logical way for it to work.

Yes, I know what happens when you assume...

Jay


----------



## michaelsil1

JayinMI said:


> No, I figured it could be done from the Bitone. Since most sources aren't optical (or digital for that matter) even from an aftermarket stereo, I figured there had to be a way to manually switch. Does it just switch over when it sees a signal on the digital in? I would assume, then that if I weren't using the CD player, then it would take the high level in, but if it saw something on the optical input it would switch to it?
> 
> This seems the most logical way for it to work.
> 
> Yes, I know what happens when you assume...
> 
> Jay


You have to manually switch from Master to Optical on the DRC; if there isn't an Optical Source then you're not going to get any sound.


----------



## rockinridgeline

Just read through this entire thread because I am very interested in the Bitone. One thing I noticed is that a lot of people are making cables by cutting off the output end of a digital cable and snapping on a toslink connector. 

I am involved, but not on the engineering level, with providing fiber optic cables to OEM electronics manufacturers, such as Fluke Test and Measurement. They have very specific requirements on how the end of the fiber is polished. They claim signal issues if the fiber is cut and installed in a connector without polishing. This is a cost factor and I am quite certain that they wouldn't be doing it unless it was necessary. Our manufacturing has special equipment to polish the fiber end. One of the posters talked about a slight improvement between fiber and analog input. I am wondering if there would be improvement using a "correctly polished" connector end?

Again, I am not an engineer, but I know we are all looking for that last little edge that will take us to sonic Nirvana. 

Where can I buy a Bitone? I can't find a single link on the internet.


----------



## michaelsil1

rockinridgeline said:


> Just read through this entire thread because I am very interested in the Bitone. One thing I noticed is that a lot of people are making cables by cutting off the output end of a digital cable and snapping on a toslink connector.
> 
> I am involved, but not on the engineering level, with providing fiber optic cables to OEM electronics manufacturers, such as Fluke Test and Measurement. They have very specific requirements on how the end of the fiber is polished. They claim signal issues if the fiber is cut and installed in a connector without polishing. This is a cost factor and I am quite certain that they wouldn't be doing it unless it was necessary. Our manufacturing has special equipment to polish the fiber end. One of the posters talked about a slight improvement between fiber and analog input. *I am wondering if there would be improvement using a "correctly polished" connector end?*
> 
> Again, I am not an engineer, but I know we are all looking for that last little edge that will take us to sonic Nirvana.
> 
> Where can I buy a Bitone? I can't find a single link on the internet.


I'm questioning this myself.


----------



## ErinH

I didn't polish the end in any special way. Just used the sandpaper (polish grit, whatever) that was sent with my connectors and rolled on. No issues that I noticed.


----------



## michaelsil1

bikinpunk said:


> I didn't polish the end in any special way. Just used the sandpaper (polish grit, whatever) that was sent with my connectors and rolled on. No issues that I noticed.


What connector did you get?

Mine seems a little on the cheap side and it didn't come with any Sandpaper.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

michaelsil1 said:


> What connector did you get?
> 
> Mine seems a little on the cheap side and it didn't come with any Sandpaper.


x2

Not that I will be using my DRZ with my BitOne (using an ECD-416), but i bought a cable optical cable for the DRZ and some toslink ends just in case I ever do. My ends are the cheap plastic ones also.


----------



## ErinH

mine are cheap plastic ones... can't remember where they came from to be honest. found out about them here, so I'm willing to bet we have the same ones.

They sent me a small piece of fine grit (what I call) sandpaper to polish the ends with. I think I still have the sandpaper and one connector. I had ordered 2, but only used one and have since sold that cable.

Mark, sent off the package today!


----------



## Buzzman

No special equipment is needed to "polish" the end to which the toslink connector is attached. Proper sandpaper is all that is needed. And, there is nothing wrong with a plastic toslink connector. In fact, I have yet to see one made from anything other than plastic, and the factory connectors on the Clarion optical cable are made of plastic. I got my toslink connectors here: Toslink Connectors, Fiber Optics and Termination Tools They came with the necessary instructions and the sandpaper. No problems at all. Just sonic bliss.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

bikinpunk said:


> Mark, sent off the package today!


Cool I will let you know when I receive them. 





Buzzman said:


> No special equipment is needed to "polish" the end to which the toslink connector is attached. Proper sandpaper is all that is needed. And, there is nothing wrong with a plastic toslink connector. In fact, I have yet to see one made from anything other than plastic, and the factory connectors on the Clarion optical cable are made of plastic. I got my toslink connectors here: Toslink Connectors, Fiber Optics and Termination Tools They came with the necessary instructions and the sandpaper. No problems at all. Just sonic bliss.



Same ones I have, but I didn't get the sand paper, I have a lot of high grit sand paper around here some where.

Buzzman still have had time to try and mod the excel RTA program yet. I should have some time in the next couple of weeks to seat down and try the changes or add-on we talked about.


----------



## Buzzman

Here-I-Come said:


> . . . Buzzman still have had time to try and mod the excel RTA program yet. I should have some time in the next couple of weeks to seat down and try the changes or add-on we talked about.


Yeah, it works great. Thanks!! Let me know how the changes work out.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Buzzman said:


> Yeah, it works great. Thanks!! Let me know how the changes work out.


Sorry man, that was suppose to say Haven't had time.


----------



## twoblacklines

Thankyou for the review.

I still love my Pioneer P77MP for quality, however it lacks the TA and xover features the later units such as P88RS2 etc.

Im wondering if I used this with a Bit One, would I have a satisfactory setup ?


----------



## SouthSyde

i have a problem with my digital... when i run analog eerythign is fine.. but when i switch to digital i get a popping noise when i put in or take out a cd... anyone else have this problem?


----------



## michaelsil1

SouthSyde said:


> i have a problem with my digital... when i run analog everythign is fine.. but when i switch to digital i get a popping noise when i put in or take out a cd... *anyone else have this problem?*


Yes!


----------



## SouthSyde

so you just gotta live with it?? i have the bitone.1 also


----------



## michaelsil1

SouthSyde said:


> so you just gotta live with it?? i have the bitone.1 also


Live with it!


----------



## Buzzman

I agree with Michael. After all, you say you get the popping noise when you put in or take out a cd, so since it's not happening while you are listening to music, why sweat it? Or, you could just listen to the analog out and call it a day.  I get pops when I pause and play my cds. It's an anomaly associated with optical out of your head unit and the Bit One. But, once the music starts, I could care less. The sound is that good. I could listen to just the analog out and avoid the pop, but that's a step backward sonically.


----------



## Buzzman

twoblacklines said:


> Thankyou for the review.
> 
> I still love my Pioneer P77MP for quality, however it lacks the TA and xover features the later units such as P88RS2 etc.
> 
> Im wondering if I used this with a Bit One, would I have a satisfactory setup ?


That's the very reason to use the Bit One.1. It will perform all the processing functions you need, and assuming your HU has a digital output, the HU will now serve only as a transport. If it does not have a digital output and you have to use the DAC in your HU and operate only through the analog out, you will still be miles ahead of where you are now.


----------



## SouthSyde

i was talking to peter lufrano and he has NO pops at all wit his digital out..


----------



## Buzzman

SouthSyde said:


> i was talking to peter lufrano and he has NO pops at all wit his digital out..


Which head unit is he using? I have been told that it's head unit dependent. I use the DRZ9255, as does Michael S., and we both have it. Again, ONLY on the Optical, and we had to modify the cable to use it with the Bit One. That COULD be a cause. But, as I said before, I can live with it.


----------



## SouthSyde

Buzzman said:


> Which head unit is he using? I have been told that it's head unit dependent. I use the DRZ9255, as does Michael S., and we both have it. Again, ONLY on the Optical, and we had to modify the cable to use it with the Bit One. That COULD be a cause. But, as I said before, I can live with it.


he has a denon dct1 and i have a dct-100..


----------



## nautilus

Buzzman said:


> Yeah, it works great. Thanks!! Let me know how the changes work out.


Hi,

Planning to get one as well, but does this unit gives you and analogue feel sound? Just like a Turntable ? 
Can you elaborate more?

Thank you.


----------



## Buzzman

nautilus said:


> Hi,
> 
> Planning to get one as well, but does this unit gives you and analogue feel sound? Just like a Turntable ?
> Can you elaborate more?
> 
> Thank you.


I would never characterize anything digital as giving the listener the sound you get with a turntable and a pure analog recording. Until the problems with the digital format are corrected, and Meridian seems to have come up with a viable solution in the home audio context, and that translates down into mobile audio, we will be stuck with the sonic shortfalls associated with the digital medium. That said, the Bit One, and in my case with the optical connection between the DRZ9255 and the Bit One, sounds fantastic.


----------



## nautilus

Hi,

Heard this in car setup as well, sounds awesome ! Just a 2 way front and rear sub. 
http://rs.audiocontrol.com/company_38//DQL-8_SN_PDF.pdf
This m/c has a 28 bit DSP !  

Any comments? :tongue2::faint:


----------



## Buzzman

nautilus said:


> Hi,
> 
> Heard this in car setup as well, sounds awesome ! Just a 2 way front and rear sub.
> http://rs.audiocontrol.com/company_38//DQL-8_SN_PDF.pdf
> This m/c has a 28 bit DSP !
> 
> Any comments? :tongue2::faint:


No Comments. Never heard one in a car set-up.


----------



## rockinridgeline

nautilus said:


> Hi,
> 
> Heard this in car setup as well, sounds awesome ! Just a 2 way front and rear sub.
> http://rs.audiocontrol.com/company_38//DQL-8_SN_PDF.pdf
> This m/c has a 28 bit DSP !
> 
> Any comments? :tongue2::faint:


No time alignment on the DQL-8 piece that I can see. It is a nice piece to upgrade a factory system using the factory HU, but not in the same class as a Bitone, DSP-6, H701, etc.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

rockinridgeline said:


> No time alignment on the DQL-8 piece that I can see. It is a nice piece to upgrade a factory system using the factory HU, but not in the same class as a Bitone, DSP-6, H701, etc.


x2

I used one in a IS250 and it is a nice piece and sounds very nice, but it is not a B1.1 or DSP6 by any means.


----------



## 03blueSI

Well, I finally got my Bit One.1 installed today. I will be changing my setup a bit in the near future. i don't quite have the space I need in order to finish my install the way I originally had it planned, but I have what I think is a good alternate install plan.

Well, first things first, I installed it with an Alpine DVA-9965 and have no noise on the digital out, no pops when changing CDs etc. The difference in sound from my CDA-9887 to this setup run digital is subtle, but it is improved going digital to the Audison.

All I did was install it, wire it up, and set the levels, crossovers and the dynamic EQ. Tomorrow I will be doing some time alignment, fine tuning the other settings, and some EQ.

Also, I knew there was something I really liked about this HU, it outputs all audio out the optical port. Well, at least I think it does. Radio and CD are both output over it. I still have to try an aux in or an iPod adapter to be sure, but I seem to remember all sources sent out over optical being mentioned in the press release.

Now, I just need to find a creative way to mount the DRC. I was going to mount it in the pocket under my HU, but it doesn't quite fit.

I just need to get around to getting a proper install once I get the rest of my equipment.


----------



## Buzzman

03blueSI said:


> Well, I finally got my Bit One.1 installed today. I will be changing my setup a bit in the near future. i don't quite have the space I need in order to finish my install the way I originally had it planned, but I have what I think is a good alternate install plan.
> 
> Well, first things first, I installed it with an Alpine DVA-9965 and have no noise on the digital out, no pops when changing CDs etc. The difference in sound from my CDA-9887 to this setup run digital is subtle, but it is improved going digital to the Audison.
> 
> All I did was install it, wire it up, and set the levels, crossovers and the dynamic EQ. Tomorrow I will be doing some time alignment, fine tuning the other settings, and some EQ.
> 
> Also, I knew there was something I really liked about this HU, it outputs all audio out the optical port. Well, at least I think it does. Radio and CD are both output over it. I still have to try an aux in or an iPod adapter to be sure, but I seem to remember all sources sent out over optical being mentioned in the press release.
> 
> Now, I just need to find a creative way to mount the DRC. I was going to mount it in the pocket under my HU, but it doesn't quite fit.
> 
> I just need to get around to getting a proper install once I get the rest of my equipment.


Congrats on getting your unit installed, and glad to hear you are getting SQ as advertised. As you will soon learn, the Bit One.1 offers incredible tuning flexibility as well. Enjoy!


----------



## Buzzman

I have had my Bit One.1 in my set-up now for eight months, and my enthusiasm for this component has not diminished at all. I have learned some things also, that I wanted to share with those who have the component or are contemplating acquiring one.

1. The manual (at page 6) states that on the input side, Channel 1 is right, and channel 2 is left. When you do the Initial Configuration, however, the program sets Channel 1 as left, and Channel 2 as right. If you do not reverse these settings, or reverse the input connections from your head unit to the Bit One.1, your left and right channels will be reversed. I chose to reverse the inputs as that aligns them more logically and allows me to set my speaker channels in a more logical manner also. 

2. If you are using a Clarion DRZ9255, the gain levels from the optical output into the Bit One.1 is NOT affected when you turn the DRZ's volume knob. That's good because if someone gets in your car and as is natural, reaches for the head unit volume knob and changes your setting, your output levels won't be affected. But, you must use the DRC controller to control your volume levels.

3. If you intend to use the analog output stage of the DRZ, I strongly recommend that you also use the DRC controller to control your volume, and leave the DRZ volume set at 0, which is the setting you should use when setting the input sensitivity for the Bit One.1 during the initial configuration. this setting gets you almost 4 volts out of the DRZ, and no clipped signal going to the Bit One.1. If you use the DRZ volume knob to set your volume levels you will NOT be sending the max output voltage to the Bit One.1 when you turn the volume level up and down from the DRZ.

4. I have spoken with Audison about the pops I get through the optical set-up when pausing and unpausing a cd, or changing tracks. Apparently, this is not limited to the DRZ, and is likely due to the Bit One.1 "shutting down" when it does not see a constant digital signal from the head unit. It's not the fault of the Bit One.1, as every head unit manufacturer handles differently how their head units output a digital signal. But, Audison MAY explore creating some sort of "buffer" that might resolve that issue. Time will tell.


----------



## 03blueSI

The popping is somewhat common in home audio as well. I had a panasonic DVD player and with my Pioneer receiver it would do this on CDs. I don't get this on the Bit One from my Alpine.

The rest of the notes match with the Alpine. The one exception, I'm not sure if the DRZ does this, but if I mute the Alpine, it does reduce the output of the Digital out, but the volume on the HU has no affect on the Digital out.

Also, I lucked out, I didn't pay attention much to the manual when installing and hooked my RCAs up and expected to be able to individually assign them to the proper input, but this isn't the case, luckily I hooked them up in reverse of the manual so left is left and right is right. I hope they make it so you can assign the inputs to individual channels though.


----------



## macmovieman

I was wondering if anyone could answer these questions. I want to pull the trigger on this unit and I found some in stock but I need to know a few tings? 

Question 1: Has anyone heard any rumors regarding releasing an update to this Bit 1 or any other unit that could replace this one at CES in the next week or so?

Question 2: Am I going to lose much in the way of sound quality by using my stock HU vs replacing it and moving to something with a digital out? 

Question 3: I heard they were going up $100 or more dollars next month from a dealer? It makes me wonder if he is trying to sell it quickly before something replaces it. 

Question 4: Can I still control my stock head unit on my steering wheel or will I need to use the other dial it ships with?


----------



## Tonyguy

macmovieman said:


> I was wondering if anyone could answer these questions. I want to pull the trigger on this unit and I found some in stock but I need to know a few tings?
> 
> Question 1: Has anyone heard any rumors regarding releasing an update to this Bit 1 or any other unit that could replace this one at CES in the next week or so?
> 
> Question 2: Am I going to lose much in the way of sound quality by using my stock HU vs replacing it and moving to something with a digital out?
> 
> Question 3: I heard they were going up $100 or more dollars next month from a dealer? It makes me wonder if he is trying to sell it quickly before something replaces it.
> 
> Question 4: Can I still control my stock head unit on my steering wheel or will I need to use the other dial it ships with?



I dont have all your answers, but I have a few. As a Hertz/Audison dealer, I haven't heard of a replacement to the bitone yet. BUT, they are adding another product to the line, although I dont know if it will have more features or less (but I think less). 

And the price on the bitone is going up $200 MSRP, so it will now retail at $1000. I believe costs are due to unexpected demand from this awesome product.


----------



## macmovieman

Tonyguy said:


> I dont have all your answers, but I have a few. As a Hertz/Audison dealer, I haven't heard of a replacement to the bitone yet. BUT, they are adding another product to the line, although I dont know if it will have more features or less (but I think less).
> 
> And the price on the bitone is going up $200 MSRP, so it will now retail at $1000. I believe costs are due to unexpected demand from this awesome product.


Have you been told the day it is going to go up? :worried:


----------



## Tonyguy

macmovieman said:


> Have you been told the day it is going to go up? :worried:


1st of the year.


----------



## ErinH

I just wonder if they ever plan to fix the bandpass slope issues. that's still one thing that irks me.


----------



## 8675309

It would be nice to be able to select an 8th order highpass in conjunction with a 2nd order on the lowpass. It would also be nice if they had a bandpass filter for the sub section or a subsonic filter. Either way it is still kickin.




bikinpunk said:


> I just wonder if they ever plan to fix the bandpass slope issues. that's still one thing that irks me.


----------



## 8675309

The pop issue would be a great fix. I can turn mine on and off 30 times with no pop. Then turn it off 2 times with a pop. Those pops always seem to happen with a judge in the car. LOL. Crazy thing is that it has a crazy turn on and off delay, it seems that they are trying.


----------



## michaelsil1

8675309 said:


> The pop issue would be a great fix. I can turn mine on and off 30 times with no pop. Then turn it off 2 times with a pop. Those pops always seem to happen with a judge in the car. LOL. Crazy thing is that it has a crazy turn on and off delay, it seems that they are trying.


I stopped using the Optical when competing.


----------



## less

Hello again all,

I'm wondering if anyone out there has used both the coaxial and optical inputs on the B1 and would care to comment on any differences they might have noticed. I'm currently using the coaxial digi in for my primary source unit - a Sarotech digital media player running off a 500gb hdd and I've never even tried the optical out but I'm considering it. My digital wiring is routed carefully to avoid picking up any stray signals from power wires and such and for the most part it sounds great - but when there is no input signal playing through the system, it seems like there is a bit more hiss than I'd like. This could be caused by the way the B1 handles an absence of signal as mentioned above I suppose.

Also, has anyone heard of any planned upgrades to firmware and software for the B1? While it is wonderfully flexible, I'd love a few changes - like hot keys to certain functions - the ability to just type in the desired output level instead of using a slider that isn't too fun when using a laptop touch pad - output level controls on the first tab where you set the xovers and such, and other similar upgrades that would be fairly easy to write into the code. Another nice one would be the ability to copy driver distances from one tab to the next without having to hand enter them.

Less


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> I stopped using the Optical when competing.


Really? Just because you might get docked a point (maybe 2) for the pops? To even approach the sonic virtues of the optical set-up you would have to change the gains in order to at least get level matched because the optical output is appreciably louder than the analog output. And, to my ear, the optical output sounds more transparent, with less "hash," overall sounds "richer" with more depth, and offers a much more expansive soundstage. Again, this is with respect to the DRZ9255 feeding the Bit One.1. Someone using another head unit might have a different experience.


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> Really? Just because you might get docked a point (maybe 2) for the pops? To even approach the sonic virtues of the optical set-up you would have to change the gains in order to at least get level matched because the optical output is appreciably louder than the analog output. And, to my ear, the optical output sounds more transparent, with less "hash," overall sounds "richer" with more depth, and offers a much more expansive soundstage. Again, this is with respect to the DRZ9255 feeding the Bit One.1. Someone using another head unit might have a different experience.


That's the point when I measure it is in Analog.


----------



## Fishman7

BitOne is in hand waiting to finish the system to see what it does looking forward to this


----------



## BigRed

buzz, ask aubrey what 2 points means in competition at the Iasca regionals using the DRZ and getting dinged for noise


----------



## Buzzman

BigRed said:


> buzz, ask aubrey what 2 points means in competition at the Iasca regionals using the DRZ and getting dinged for noise


Hey Jim, I hear you. :laugh: My point is that in my experience the sonic virtues and excellence of the optical set up will get you closer to the point where 2 points might make the difference between winning and losing.


----------



## BigRed

I'm testing a drz right now and really like it  sorry to get OT


----------



## Buzzman

BigRed said:


> I'm testing a drz right now and really like it  sorry to get OT


Jim, no problem with the OT.  It's hard not to like the DRZ. The combination of SQ, tuning flexibility and good, classic looks are hard to beat.


----------



## 03blueSI

Just got some time to get some tuning in and I am really liking this unit. It is far easier to tune than the H701 or the DEQ-P9.

So far I spent about an hour with it just tweaking crossover points and slopes, levels, TA, and EQ and I already have my system sounding better than I think it has sounded in a long time. Yes it is a passive 2 way up front at this point, but it is within 10% of the best 3 way system I have run.

I just have to do a bit more fine tuning and I think it will be golden. I can't even imagine how it will sound once I end up getting a full 3-way active setup with it again.


----------



## Nick337

Man all this talk about it, I finally decided to order one. Just an fyi, Audison is going up 100 dollars on the BitOne. Jus incase nobody knew. I can't wait till I get mines in.


----------



## Seth1784

you'll enjoy it nick, been running mine since they hit. looooove it way over the 360.2 i used to have as well.


----------



## Nick337

Seth1784 said:


> you'll enjoy it nick, been running mine since they hit. looooove it way over the 360.2 i used to have as well.


Unfortunately, I will still have to run my 3sixty.2 along side with the Bitone. I will run jus the subwoofer output from the 3sixty.2. I jus have too many speakers in the car. LOl


----------



## Buzzman

Nick337 said:


> Unfortunately, I will still have to run my 3sixty.2 along side with the Bitone. I will run jus the subwoofer output from the 3sixty.2. I jus have too many speakers in the car. LOl


Hmmm. Are you running 8 channels of speakers + subwoofer?


----------



## Nick337

Buzzman said:


> Hmmm. Are you running 8 channels of speakers + subwoofer?


That is correct. I have a 3 way Active Setup in the Front, With the Utopia Be No.7 Kit minus the crossblock. And a set of K2P's UV in the rear, along with a 13.5 w7 in the trunk.


----------



## Seth1784

hahahahhahaha oh well the sub output on the 360 wasn't that hard to tune even off of the pda. that was probably my biggest grip. i got the 360 before the laptop software ever hit and good lord tuning fronts were a PAIN on a pda lol! even with the laptop software later on down the line i couldn't keep connected to the stupid thing....

this you'll like more for the real time changes over the select and let it reset. i thought that was one of the best things that was improved, not to mention a hard line to the processor lol.


----------



## Nick337

My Bitone should be here in a day or two, man i can't wait I have everything ran for it already. Jus no bitone yet.


----------



## Nick337

I finished installing my BitOne. Needless to say its was well worth the money spent.


----------



## macmovieman

Nick337 said:


> I finished installing my BitOne. Needless to say its was well worth the money spent.


Details. What stands out the most over your old setup.


----------



## Nick337

I've changed my whole front speakers from the K2P's UV to the Utopia Be's 3 way kit. The thing appealed to me the most was the option to have up to 8 outputs, plus there are alot more options for tuning on this system versus my old 3sixty.2


----------



## twing

Hi guys, any one use DEX-P9 with the Bit 1, if so what's your opinion?

T


----------



## Hextall 27

Hi Guys, new to the site, I found it when searching for info on this processor. Needless to say I've read A LOT here  Can anyone tell me where I might purchase one in the SE Indiana/ Cincinnati, OH area? My computer doesn't have Flash thanks to a vicious virus and I'm not in the mood to load it and risk getting infected again. By the way I saw someone say that there is a Bit One.1 and a Bit One.S? Is that correct?


----------



## IBcivic

bitone.1 is the latest iteration...the previous versions had noise issues.


----------



## thbugman

I have a bitone, i've never used..Still in the box....just throwing that out there!


----------



## Se7en

thbugman said:


> I have a bitone, i've never used..Still in the box....just throwing that out there!


What do you want for it?

Sending you a PM.


----------



## NCQ45

Just like to say I've had my BitOne since last June and I absolutely love it. Glad I traded up from my Zapco.


----------



## Technic

Tonyguy said:


> I dont have all your answers, but I have a few. As a Hertz/Audison dealer, I haven't heard of a replacement to the bitone yet. BUT, they are adding another product to the line, although I dont know if it will have more features or less (but I think less).
> 
> *And the price on the bitone is going up $200 MSRP*, so it will now retail at $1000. I believe costs are due to unexpected demand from this awesome product.


Audison better comes up with some new features for those extra $200, as at least the recently released Alpine PXE-H660 will be some $500 cheaper, and vastly improving the OEM integration and setup over the lackluster H550. And of course, the elusive MS-8 is to be sold at $800 _one of these days/years _with arguably better features than the bit one.

By the way, I have a bit one.1 since February 2009, purchased below its $800 MSRP... the best processor so far that I have ever installed. But at $1000 this is not looking as it will be a decent deal anymore...


----------



## nautilus

Hi,

If I'm planning to run a 3 way full passive setup with just a 4 x ch Hi class A / AB amps together with the Bit One, can this machine perform TA function at the same time with passive xover?

E.g , Full Audison Thesis system with their 3 way Orchestra speakers, Audison - Music Expression

Woofer > Audison - Music Expression

4 x ch Amp > Audison - Music Expression

Bit one > http://www.audison.eu/xml/products/pdf/audison_support_technical_sheets/audison_BitOne.1_tech_EN.pdf

Does the Mcintosh HU MX 406 or MX 5000 comes with a Sub out as well ?

Thank you Bros.

Cheers.


----------



## Nick337

nautilus said:


> Hi,
> 
> If I'm planning to run a 3 way full passive setup with just a 4 x ch Hi class A / AB amps together with the Bit One, can this machine perform TA function at the same time with passive xover?
> 
> E.g , Full Audison Thesis system with their 3 way Orchestra speakers, Audison - Music Expression
> 
> Woofer > Audison - Music Expression
> 
> 4 x ch Amp > Audison - Music Expression
> 
> Bit one > http://www.audison.eu/xml/products/pdf/audison_support_technical_sheets/audison_BitOne.1_tech_EN.pdf
> 
> Does the Mcintosh HU MX 406 or MX 5000 comes with a Sub out as well ?
> 
> Thank you Bros.
> 
> Cheers.


It can do almost anythin you need it to do. The time alignment features are there.


----------



## Nick337

Technic said:


> Audison better comes up with some new features for those extra $200, as at least the recently released Alpine PXE-H660 will be some $500 cheaper, and vastly improving the OEM integration and setup over the lackluster H550. And of course, the elusive MS-8 is to be sold at $800 _one of these days/years _with arguably better features than the bit one.
> 
> By the way, I have a bit one.1 since February 2009, purchased below its $800 MSRP... the best processor so far that I have ever installed. But at $1000 this is not looking as it will be a decent deal anymore...


The MSRP is only going up another 100 dollars, not 200 dollars. The reason why its going up is because the demand for it is getting higher, and they have made revisions to it therefore, we (the customers) have to pay for it. That is coming from my Audison Dealer.


----------



## michaelsil1

Nick337 said:


> It can do almost anything you need it to do. The time alignment features are there.


It can't do magic; T/A doesn't work with a Passive Crossover.


----------



## Technic

Nick337 said:


> The MSRP is only going up another 100 dollars, not 200 dollars. The reason why its going up is because the demand for it is getting higher, *and they have made revisions to it therefore*, we (the customers) have to pay for it. That is coming from my Audison Dealer.


I can understand the demand part of the increase... hey, I would want to make an extra buck too. However, the "revision" part is ridiculous. They made _fixes_ and quite considerable ones.


----------



## Tonyguy

Nick337 said:


> The MSRP is only going up another 100 dollars, not 200 dollars. The reason why its going up is because the demand for it is getting higher, and they have made revisions to it therefore, we (the customers) have to pay for it. That is coming from my Audison Dealer.


Well I am an Audison dealer and it is definitely going up $200. This is word from Audison themselves.


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> It can't do magic; T/A doesn't work with a Passive Crossover.


Michael, Steve Head would not agree with you: 

Passive System Time Alignment | Tutorials | Team Audionutz


----------



## Buzzman

Technic said:


> I can understand the demand part of the increase... hey, I would want to make an extra buck too. However, the "revision" part is ridiculous. They made _fixes_ and quite considerable ones.


Those fixes cost $ in terms of R&D and new parts that were not in the original version. ALL manufacturers ultimately pass these types of costs on to the consumer so it can maintain an appropriate profit margin. Further, even with the proposed price increase, which doesn't affect those who already have a Bit One.1, show me a currently available processor that offers the same or better flexibility, sound quality and 8 channels of configuration at that price.


----------



## Technic

Buzzman said:


> Those fixes cost $ in terms of R&D and new parts that were not in the original version. ALL manufacturers ultimately pass these types of costs on to the consumer so it can maintain an appropriate profit margin. Further, even with the proposed price increase, which doesn't affect those who already have a Bit One.1, show me a currently available processor that offers the same or better flexibility, sound quality and 8 channels of configuration at that price.


You are joking, right? 

One thing is making extra money in this economy, another thing is coming with a product with some serious defects from the get go and anybody justifying an increase in price due to fixing what was not supposed to be broken to begin with. 

And yes, I got one replaced as most of the initial customers. 

At that new price nobody else is offering a processor with those capabilities, they are offering 75% of those capabilities _at half or even less of that new price._

Please guys, don't be brand fanboys. That doesn't help anybody, not you, not me, not any consumer, not even the brand itself. They will start feeling that they can get away with **** and that everybody will buy it anyway.

$1000 for this device without any additional features/capabilities is ridiculous.


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> Michael, Steve Head would not agree with you:
> 
> Passive System Time Alignment | Tutorials | Team Audionutz


Remember, this is a PASSIVE system, so therefore we can NOT align individual drivers, we have to do individual CHANNELS

This was from Steve's tutorial.


----------



## nautilus

Logically I do agree, as it works with passive xover, all drivers are totally lock and controlled by the resistors used. Wherears in a active setup, each and every individual driver is control by the processing part, thus giving user the flexibility to adjust the driver speed, that's proably how the delay process works. 

Check this out, built in processor, very refine amp > http://www.focal-fr.com/catalogue-docs/EN/18/files/1279.pdf


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> Remember, this is a PASSIVE system, so therefore we can NOT align individual drivers, we have to do individual CHANNELS
> 
> This was from Steve's tutorial.


Precisely. I interpreted your post as stating time alignment was not a possibility at all. Per Steve's tutorial, there is a viable compromise.


----------



## Buzzman

Technic said:


> You are joking, right?
> 
> One thing is making extra money in this economy, another thing is coming with a product with some serious defects from the get go and anybody justifying an increase in price due to fixing what was not supposed to be broken to begin with.
> 
> And yes, I got one replaced as most of the initial customers.
> 
> At that new price nobody else is offering a processor with those capabilities, they are offering 75% of those capabilities _at half or even less of that new price._
> 
> Please guys, don't be brand fanboys. That doesn't help anybody, not you, not me, not any consumer, not even the brand itself. They will start feeling that they can get away with **** and that everybody will buy it anyway.
> 
> $1000 for this device without any additional features/capabilities is ridiculous.


1. I am not joking. 

2. A "fanboy" I am not. You and I just disagree about whether there is adequate business justification for the price increase. I know enough about the new and improved product to feel that there is. Leave it at that.

3. No one is forcing anyone to buy the product. If someone wants to get 75% of the capabilities from another product that costs, as you put it, "half or even less", that's their prerogrative. For some, the extra 25% of capabilities is what gives them full satisfaction, and they will be willing to pay the price premium. Value, actual or perceived, is always a subjective thing. That's why some people are perfectly happy with a Mitsubishi Evo and others would have nothing less than an M3.


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> Precisely. I interpreted your post as stating time alignment was not a possibility at all. Per Steve's tutorial, there is a viable compromise.






There's always a viable compromise.


----------



## michaelsil1

I heard from an (would prefer to be) anonymous source Audison was trying to make up for all the money lost with the recalls.


I know there wasn't an official recall.


----------



## Niebur3

Buzzman said:


> 1. I am not joking.
> 
> 2. A "fanboy" I am not. You and I just disagree about whether there is adequate business justification for the price increase. I know enough about the new and improved product to feel that there is. Leave it at that.
> 
> 3. No one is forcing anyone to buy the product. If someone wants to get 75% of the capabilities from another product that costs, as you put it, "half or even less", that's their prerogrative. For some, the extra 25% of capabilities is what gives them full satisfaction, and they will be willing to pay the price premium. Value, actual or perceived, is always a subjective thing. That's why some people are perfectly happy with a Mitsubishi Evo and others would have nothing less than an M3.


I do say that I have to agree with Technic on part of this. If audison wants to make more money on a popular product, then who are we to stand in their way, but to say they are covering costs to fix a product they put out as defective and we should be okay with that is ridiculous and we as consumers should not have to pay for their mistake (cost of doing business). 

Does that mean Toyota is going to charge a surcharge now only on the models of cars they recalled for fixing their gas pedal problem? A 25% raise in cost in 1 year is just plain ridiculous.


----------



## Technic

michaelsil1 said:


> I heard from an (would prefer to be) anonymous source *Audison was trying to make up for all the money lost with the recalls.*
> 
> 
> I know there wasn't an official recall.


Now _that_ sounds about right...


----------



## Buzzman

Well, it's been a year since I have had my BitOne.1 installed in my car, and the great news is that my unit has worked flawlessly. The sonic qualities of this processor, and the flexibility it affords the user, continue to impress me. I finally created a preset for when I and my wife are in the car so that she can enjoy the music the same as I. It was so simple: on the DSP Settings screen select the center listening position in the area where you set your speaker locations, and adjust time alignment and phase. Now, when she is in the car I select preset C and she is much happier than before. When she is not in the car, I select preset A and I am in heaven. 

I now use only the optical output from my DRZ for listening to CDs, and the improvement over the analog outputs is tremendous. There is significantly greater gain, which probably accounts for the soundstage being bigger, wider, and much more three-dimensional. Instruments and voices are not simply flat images on a stage. They are there in real life, with size, body and depth.  If I revert back to the analog outputs, everything shrinks.  Now, one thing I should mention is that my system gains were set with an oscilloscope and test tones from the Autosound 2000 CD104. I recognize that since I set the gains on my amps with the test tones being sent optically from the DRZ, it might be a fairer comparison if I went back and set the gains using the analog output signal. However, I suspect that I would end up having to turn the gains up on the amps, and the tradeoff in increased background noise from doing so, plus having to ensure that the volume level on the DRZ remains the same at *all **times * in order to have constant maximum voltage sent to the BitOne.1 is not particularly enticing to me. With respect to the latter point, when using the optical output changing the volume level on the DRZ has NO effect on the output level. So, when your cousin Mikey gets in your ride and immediately reaches for the DRZ's volume button and tries to crank things up you know your tweeters are safe, and your SQ remains the same.  Also, the increased gain using the optical outputs has allowed me to remove the Tru Technology SSLD6 from my signal path. I am planning to redo my trunk in the near future to move my amps and the BitOne.1 to a different location, so I will experiment with using the Tru line driver after the BitOne.1. I will report on my findings. 

There have been NO mechanical issues at all with my BitOne.1.  The only issue I have is when I pause or skip a track on a CD, I get a pop. There is no pop or noise of any kind *while playing music*. And, there is no pop when using the analog output from the DRZ. Based on my discussions with the technical folks at Elettromedia USA, apparently when I pause a track, the DRZ ceases to send any form of digital signal to the BitOne, and the BitOne essentially shuts down, or, if you will, closes its digital reception door. Once I begin playback, it reopens that door, causing the pop. It appears that there is no real "fix" for this as it is a head unit dependent issue. I believe there are some who do not have this problem with certain Alpine head units. This issue is so minimal, and the sonic improvement so great, that I can live with it, and have happily done so. 

I and others have yearned for some additional flexibility with the BitOne.1. Namely, the ability to select different high pass and low pass crossover slopes in the bandpass setting. Well, I have it from a most reliable source that in the coming months another firmware update will be offered, resulting in that additional feature and others.  The Audison engineers are busily working on some other digital projects that are higher priority right now, so be patient.


----------



## ErinH

Buzzman said:


> I and others have yearned for some additional flexibility with the BitOne.1. Namely, the ability to select different high pass and low pass crossover slopes in the bandpass setting. Well, I have it from a most reliable source that in the coming months another firmware update will be offered, resulting in that additional feature and others.  The Audison engineers are busily working on some other digital projects that are higher priority right now, so be patient.


'bout time.

We were told the same thing last year at this time, and we're still waiting. 

Any idea on what the 'other' features will be?


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Buzzman said:


> Well, I have it from a most reliable source that in the coming months another firmware update will be offered, resulting in that additional feature and others. /QUOTE]
> 
> Man I hope this is true. At this point the BitOne would be almost prefect.


----------



## nautilus

Just had a chance to Audit a full system Thesis system, 
Config as follows: 
1 x quattro amp for front 3 way active
1 x quattro amp for sub, 2 x ch for front mid bass drivers.

Processor > 1 x Bit one.
Sub Audison Thesis 10" enclose inside the rear boot of a Honda Odyssey.

Accurate and extremely 3 dimensional feel,with transparency.
Sub out beat the Morel Ultimo 12", very control sub with clean bass.

A good to have system


----------



## nautilus

Audison - Music Expression

Audison - Music Expression

2 x Audison - Music Expression
switchable, Hi Class A, AB or power saving mode  

Simply fabulous !! Extra Ordinary with the BitOne of course.


----------



## thebetaproject

Buzzman said:


> The Audison engineers are busily working on some other digital projects that are higher priority right now, so be patient.


Speaking to my local dealer today and the rumour is that a cheaper 'lite' version of the bit one is in the works.


----------



## Buzzman

thebetaproject said:


> Speaking to my local dealer today and the rumour is that a cheaper 'lite' version of the bit one is in the works.


Well, I have it from a reliable in-house source that an "entry level" version will be hitting the market in the coming months, and some of the features in that unit will make it's way into the BitOne.1. And, due to market interest, they are exploring for possible future application an auto eq solution as well.


----------



## Buzzman

I have replaced my fabulous Clarion DRZ9255 with an Eclipse 55090. Why? I don't need the processing and crossover capabilities of the DRZ, and the Eclipse offers a DVD based transport along with digital optical as well as digital coax outputs.  So far I have not been able to get a digital signal through the Eclipse's coax out, thus troubleshooting continues. Here are some initial observations: 1. I no longer have the pops when using the optical connection and pausing or skipping CD tracks like I did with the DRZ.  It appears that the BitOne.1 much prefers the way in which the Eclipse outputs the digital stream. 2. The optical output of the Eclipse sounds better than the analog output to these ears, but the differences are not anywhere as significant as with the DRZ where I heard what can be fairly described as a "night and day" difference in favor of the optical connection. I am not knowledgeable enough about the science behind this technology to opine as to why this is the case, but perhaps some of the more technically inclined might be able to offer thoughts on the matter. Bottom line, the Eclipse deck falls far short of the Clarion in the looks department, but it is really quite good sonically. With the connection options it offers, along with an outstanding transport mechanism and no more pops when pausing or switching tracks on a CD, I am very happy.


----------



## subwoofery

That means I can come back to take a listen now without gremlins coming out of your speakers  

Kelvin


----------



## Buzzman

subwoofery said:


> That means I can come back to take a listen now without gremlins coming out of your speakers
> 
> Kelvin


:laugh: And, you better hurry because I am moving to Scottsdale, AZ on Thursday.


----------



## subwoofery

Buzzman said:


> :laugh: And, you better hurry because I am moving to Scottsdale, AZ on Thursday.


Crap you should have told me earlier, I'm coming back to US on Saturday. 

Ohh well, guess I'll have to plan a trip to AZ. Might be a good opportunity to meet all the fellow DIYer while I'm there  

Kelvin 

PS: are you leaving your car in LA by any chance


----------



## Buzzman

subwoofery said:


> Crap you should have told me earlier, I'm coming back to US on Saturday.
> 
> Ohh well, guess I'll have to plan a trip to AZ. Might be a good opportunity to meet all the fellow DIYer while I'm there
> 
> Kelvin
> 
> PS: are you leaving your car in LA by any chance


LOL, I am driving Da Benz to Scottsdale on Thursday. So, yes, please plan a trip to Phoenix when the weather cools off, and I will pull together a group of local guys for a get together.


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> LOL, I am driving Da Benz to Scottsdale on Thursday. So, yes, please plan a trip to Phoenix when the weather cools off, and I will pull together a group of local guys for a get together.


Don,

I thought you had left months ago.


----------



## rawdawg

If you would have shown up to Speakerworks on Saturday, you could have said farewell to the Buzzman...


----------



## michaelsil1

rawdawg said:


> If you would have shown up to Speakerworks on Saturday, you could have said farewell to the Buzzman...


He told me that he wasn't going to come anymore.


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> He told me that he wasn't going to come anymore.


LOL. When did I tell you that? No, I was always planning to attend the Speakerworks event as that was going to be my last opportunity to hook up with some of the So. Cal guys. It would have been great to see you too Michael. But, perhaps we will see each other again at some future event, like Marv's BBQ.


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> LOL. When did I tell you that? No, I was always planning to attend the Speakerworks event as that was going to be my last opportunity to hook up with some of the So. Cal guys. It would have been great to see you too Michael. But, perhaps we will see each other again at some future event, like Marv's BBQ.


I so broke I'm not sure what I'm going to do.


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> I so broke I'm not sure what I'm going to do.


Well, for one, stay positive. Good things will come your way. I am sure you will be able to grab a ride up with someone.


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> Well, for one, stay positive. Good things will come your way. I am sure you will be able to grab a ride up with someone.


Stay Positive 

Good advice. 

I didn't even think about hitching a ride up North.


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> Stay Positive
> 
> Good advice.
> 
> I didn't even think about hitching a ride up North.


Yeah, hitch a ride, then find a spare couch and you are good to go. 

And, my BitOne is really liking this Eclipse head unit.  I just can't figure out why I can't get a signal through the coax.


----------



## Diamondblackcars

Buzzman said:


> Yeah, hitch a ride, then find a spare couch and you are good to go.
> 
> And, my BitOne is really liking this Eclipse head unit.  I just can't figure out why I can't get a signal through the coax.


Hello
I live in the UK and this is my first time on a forum, I have just read all of your 14 pages about the Audision Bit One, a car Stereo Dealer in the UK has told me the Audision Bit One is what I need to fit to my car.
I want to put my Dynaudio system 240MKII and JL12W6 speakers in my car as well as my Genesis Q240x and Rockford 400.4 amps.
I can see from reading you post that the Audision Bit One will allow me to upgrade without interfering with the OEM equipment that is in the car.
I drive a 08/58 BMW 135i M Sport Coupe with Navigation-system Professional, can you tell me if I am missing something or having brain fade, I can't see what level the stereo is when I turn up the volume.
IE on my old stereos in my previous cars it would indicate what level the stereo was at on the head unit display, for example 25 out of 30 with 30 being max volume.
The Dealer in the UK and yourself have said that you don’t use the OEM head unit volume control button, instead you use the volume button on the DRC “Digital Remote Control” when you want to turn the volume up.
If I don’t know what volume my OEM head unit is at is it still possible to set up an Audision Bit One correctly?
Also do you know if I can replace my OEM head unit with my Nakamichi CD400 or will it affect the cars iDrive, Sat Nav and rear parking sensors as the UK Dealer has suggested.

Regards Karl


----------



## Buzzman

Diamondblackcars said:


> Hello
> I live in the UK and this is my first time on a forum, I have just read all of your 14 pages about the Audision Bit One, a car Stereo Dealer in the UK has told me the Audision Bit One is what I need to fit to my car.
> I want to put my Dynaudio system 240MKII and JL12W6 speakers in my car as well as my Genesis Q240x and Rockford 400.4 amps.
> I can see from reading you post that the Audision Bit One will allow me to upgrade without interfering with the OEM equipment that is in the car.
> I drive a 08/58 BMW 135i M Sport Coupe with Navigation-system Professional, can you tell me if I am missing something or having brain fade, I can't see what level the stereo is when I turn up the volume.
> IE on my old stereos in my previous cars it would indicate what level the stereo was at on the head unit display, for example 25 out of 30 with 30 being max volume.
> The Dealer in the UK and yourself have said that you don’t use the OEM head unit volume control button, instead you use the volume button on the DRC “Digital Remote Control” when you want to turn the volume up.
> If I don’t know what volume my OEM head unit is at is it still possible to set up an Audision Bit One correctly?
> Also do you know if I can replace my OEM head unit with my Nakamichi CD400 or will it affect the cars iDrive, Sat Nav and rear parking sensors as the UK Dealer has suggested.
> 
> Regards Karl


Karl, unfortunately I am not familiar with the OEM system in the BMW. Thus, I do not know what effect replacing the CD player will have on the iDrive system. You should start a separate thread asking BMW owners for their thoughts on this. I am sure you will get responses. 

With regard to a set-up involving the Bit One and your OEM source, although you cannot see a volume level displayed on your OEM source, you should still be able to determine at which point the maximum unclipped voltage is being sent by the source unit by using an oscilloscope connected to the source's outputs and an appropriate test tone. Ask your technician about this. Because you don't have a readout, you will have to "mark" the volume knob and the spot on the face of the unit where the max unclipped voltage occurs so you don't deviate from it. Once you have that determined, then use the DRC as your volume control. This way, the Bit One will always be receiving the max output from your source.


----------



## Diamondblackcars

Buzzman said:


> Karl, unfortunately I am not familiar with the OEM system in the BMW. Thus, I do not know what effect replacing the CD player will have on the iDrive system. You should start a separate thread asking BMW owners for their thoughts on this. I am sure you will get responses.
> 
> With regard to a set-up involving the Bit One and your OEM source, although you cannot see a volume level displayed on your OEM source, you should still be able to determine at which point the maximum unclipped voltage is being sent by the source unit by using an oscilloscope connected to the source's outputs and an appropriate test tone. Ask your technician about this. Because you don't have a readout, you will have to "mark" the volume knob and the spot on the face of the unit where the max unclipped voltage occurs so you don't deviate from it. Once you have that determined, then use the DRC as your volume control. This way, the Bit One will always be receiving the max output from your source.


Thank you for the answers, I was thinking it would be great if I could get a remote control to turn the head unit on and of, that way I could take the volume knob of all together, but I realized then I will have to do something with the steering wheel volume buttons as well. I will have to use the voice control instead of the buttons to turn the head unit on and of, that’s if I can get used to it as that seems to be the easiest solution.


----------



## apotelyt

How well can the Bitone work with a DEX-P9? Anyone tried this?


----------



## bmwproboi05

Diamondblackcars said:


> Thank you for the answers, I was thinking it would be great if I could get a remote control to turn the head unit on and of, that way I could take the volume knob of all together, but I realized then I will have to do something with the steering wheel volume buttons as well. I will have to use the voice control instead of the buttons to turn the head unit on and of, that’s if I can get used to it as that seems to be the easiest solution.


I know this thread is old, but I would like to tell you that many ppl with BMW tend to extend the wiring somewhere, and throw the oem into area still pluged in soo it wont affect the system


----------



## nautilus

apotelyt said:


> How well can the Bitone work with a DEX-P9? Anyone tried this?


The deck has front, rear, and non-fading outputs, driven by a 24-bit DAC with 4V swings. This means that the deck can be used separately from the DEQ-P9 equalizer/crossover unit. Additional connections are provided for cell phone mute, remote turn-on, and dimmer control.

With the DEQ-P9 connected, you have a true 1/3 octave, 31-band graphic equalizer with +/-12 dB of cut/boost in each band in increments of 0.5 dB. Left and right channels have individual adjustment capability by default, but there is a switch that locks them together for simultaneous adjustment. Also included are Bass and Treble shelving filters with adjustable frequency and level, which act as the typical "tone" controls for macro adjustment of the overall tonal balance.

A four-way crossover network feeds four pairs of RCA output jacks to drive your external amplifiers. The crossover is extremely flexible. It can essentially be disabled so that you have only one full-range output; or it can be set up as a two-way or three-way system that also provides a full-range output simultaneously, or a true four-way system. In addition to giving you crossover points at any of the 1/3 octave frequencies, each of the highpass and lowpass filters has six slope selections of 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, and 36 dB per octave. Phase can be inverted on each output, which is needed when using odd-order slopes (6, 18, and 30 dB which are first order, third order, and fifth order slopes) to avoid cancellation in the crossover region. The amplitude level of each crossover output can be adjusted in 0.5 dB increments from 0 to -24 dB for the low, mid and high outputs, and from +10 to -24 dB for the subwoofer out. Each output can be time-corrected from 0 to 134 inches in 0.67-inch steps. Also, overall listening position can be selected for front left, front right, or both, with fine-tuning capability for both distance and level between the left and right channels.

This is the most accurate EQ/crossover I have seen in any mobile audio piece. Five memory presets allow you to save your EQ/crossover/delay settings and recall them instantly -- an absolute must-have feature for competitors. Each of the memory presets can be titled, so you can easily remember what they are; and the memories can be locked so that you don't accidentally overwrite your settings. A "flat" preset makes it easy and quick to hear how your settings compare to the raw signal.

The DEX-P9 serves as the control for a variety of units available from Pioneer that connect with a proprietary bus called IP-Bus. This is a multi-pin connector setup that transmits control signals and audio between all the sources in the system. But when it comes to sending audio to the DEQ-P9, this is not good enough. The precious audio signal is tapped directly from the DSP and carried via optical fiber, so there is no chance of noise infiltrating it. Once the sound has been processed in the digital realm, it is then converted to analog with 24-bit DACs (1 bit for subwoofer) that feed the gold-plated RCA outputs.

Other devices that can be controlled by the DEX-P9 include an XM Satellite Radio tuner, multi-CD players, a multi-DVD player, a TV tuner, a DAB (digital audio broadcast) tuner, and an auxiliary input for other analog sources. XM Satellite Radio is a new service that should be available by the time you read this. Two satellites nicknamed "Rock" and "Roll" will provide 100 channels of music, sports, news, and talk radio to the 48 contiguous states in the U.S. for a monthly subscription fee of $9.99.

With sound that rivals that of the highest quality home gear, and surgical precision in the equalizer and crossover, this pair promises to be a big hit among audiophiles and competitors alike. Go listen to these pieces, you won't be disappointed!Specifications: Pioneer Premier DEX-P9MSRP $1280.00 / $850.00 Frequency Response: +0, -1 dB 20 Hz - 20 kHzOutput Voltage: 4.47VRMS @ > .02% THD+NTHD+N: 0.0065 @ 1 kHz, 30 kHz LPFSignal to Noise Ratio: 105 dB @ 1kHz A-weightedSeparation: 88 dB @ 1 kHz, 30 kHz LPF TONE CONTROLS:Bass: Shelving at 63 Hz, 100 Hz, 160 Hz, 250 HzTreble: Shelving at 4 kHz, 6.3 kHz, 10 kHz, 16 kHzGain: +/-12 dB (1 dB steps) 31 BAND GRAPHIC EQUALIZER:Frequencies: 20 Hz - 20 kHz at ISO 1/3 octave center frequenciesGain: +/-12 dB (0.5 dB steps) Crossover:SUBWOOFER:Highpass frequencies: 20 Hz, 25 Hz, 31.5 Hz, 40 Hz, 50 Hz, 63 Hz, 80 Hz, 100 HzLowpass frequencies: 25 Hz, 31.5Hz, 40 Hz, 50 Hz, 63 Hz, 80 Hz, 100 Hz, 125 Hz, 160 Hz, 200 Hz, 250 HzGain: +10 dB - -24 dB (0.5 dB steps) LOW:Highpass frequencies: 25 Hz, 31.5 Hz, 40 Hz, 50 Hz, 63 Hz, 80 Hz, 100 Hz, 125 Hz, 160 Hz, 200 Hz, 250 HzLowpass frequencies: 250 Hz, 315 Hz, 400 Hz, 500 Hz, 630 Hz, 800 Hz, 1 kHz, 1.25 kHz, 1.6 kHz, 2 kHz, 2.5 kHz, 3.15 kHz, 4 kHz, 5 kHz, 6.3 kHz, 8 kHz, 10 kHzGain: 0 dB - -24 dB (0.5 dB steps) MID:Highpass frequencies: 200 Hz, 25 0Hz, 315 Hz, 400 Hz, 500 Hz, 630 Hz, 800 Hz, 1 kHz, 1.25 kHz, 1.6 kHz, 2 kHz, 2.5 kHz, 3.15 kHz, 4 kHz, 5 kHz, 6.3 kHz, 8 kHz, 10 kHzLowpass frequencies: 2 kHz, 2.5 kHz, 3.15 kHz, 4 kHz, 5 kHz, 6.3 kHz, 8 kHz, 10 kHz, 12.5 kHz, 16 kHz, 20 kHzGain: 0 dB - -24 dB (0.5 dB steps) HIGH:Highpass frequencies: 1.6 kHz, 2 kHz, 2.5 kHz, 3.15 kHz, 4 kHz, 5 kHz, 6.3 kHz, 8 kHz, 10 kHz, 12.5 kHz, 16 kHz, 20 kHzLowpass frequencies: 8 kHz, 10 kHz, 12.5 kHz, 16 kHz, 20 kHzGain: 0 dB - -24 dB (0.5 dB steps) Slope: 0, -6, -12, -18, -24, -30, -36 dB per octave

_Its all about tuning._


----------



## nautilus

Diamondblackcars said:


> Hello
> I live in the UK and this is my first time on a forum, I have just read all of your 14 pages about the Audision Bit One, a car Stereo Dealer in the UK has told me the Audision Bit One is what I need to fit to my car.
> I want to put my Dynaudio system 240MKII and JL12W6 speakers in my car as well as my Genesis Q240x and Rockford 400.4 amps.
> I can see from reading you post that the Audision Bit One will allow me to upgrade without interfering with the OEM equipment that is in the car.
> I drive a 08/58 BMW 135i M Sport Coupe with Navigation-system Professional, can you tell me if I am missing something or having brain fade, I can't see what level the stereo is when I turn up the volume.
> IE on my old stereos in my previous cars it would indicate what level the stereo was at on the head unit display, for example 25 out of 30 with 30 being max volume.
> The Dealer in the UK and yourself have said that you don’t use the OEM head unit volume control button, instead you use the volume button on the DRC “Digital Remote Control” when you want to turn the volume up.
> If I don’t know what volume my OEM head unit is at is it still possible to set up an Audision Bit One correctly?
> Also do you know if I can replace my OEM head unit with my Nakamichi CD400 or will it affect the cars iDrive, Sat Nav and rear parking sensors as the UK Dealer has suggested.
> 
> Regards Karl


Hi,

With Bit One, everything is possible.
http://www.audison.eu/xml/products/pdf/audison_support_technical_sheets/audison_BitOne.1_tech_EN.pdf

http://www.caraudio-store.de/news/bitone1-0.pdf
Hope this helps.  
Just ensure its install correctly.:laugh:


----------



## nautilus

http://www.audison.eu/img/audison_FDA_eng.pdf;)


----------



## Q-Authority

nautilus said:


> http://www.audison.eu/img/audison_FDA_eng.pdf;)


FYI: You need to remove the 'semi-colon and parenthese' at the end of your link, as it won't work the way you pasted it. Need to copy and paste otherwise.


----------



## Diamondblackcars

Thank you for the Links and the Advice

Diamondblackcars


----------



## zak

Just picked up a Bit Ten D and should be installing it in the next 4-6 weeks. (If I didn't have kids, it would be done this weekend.) 

Dave


----------



## apotelyt

zak said:


> Just picked up a Bit Ten D and should be installing it in the next 4-6 weeks. (If I didn't have kids, it would be done this weekend.)
> 
> Dave


Pls do let us know your findings once installed. I'm also looking at one.


----------



## 11blueGTI

Can't wait to pick up a bit one. Had used one before and will be using it in my 2011 GTI install.


----------



## nautilus

http://www.audison.eu/img/audison_FDA_eng.pdf

http://www.audison.eu/xml/products/pdf/audison_support_technical_sheets/audison_BitOne.1_tech_EN.pdf

Sorry please try this again.


----------



## zak

zak said:


> Just picked up a Bit Ten D and should be installing it in the next 4-6 weeks. (If I didn't have kids, it would be done this weekend.)
> 
> Dave


I've had my Bit Ten (not D) installed for a few weeks now. I'm using high level output from the factory amplifier in my 2007 Lexus IS250 into the Bit Ten. I did the configuration, including the de-eq. It's not bad. Sounds a little "rounded" and lacking in some microdynamics, compared to the same speakers, wiring, and amps with a Nakamichi CD700. I suspect it's doing the best it can, considering the source is the high level output from the factory amp. I haven't done anything with eq or delays as of yet - giving it some time to break in...

Dave


----------



## Rivers

Where are you guys purchasing your bit ten from? Can't seem to find any online dealers.


----------



## michaelsil1

Rivers said:


> Where are you guys purchasing your bit ten from? Can't seem to find any online dealers.


You can't buy Audison online.


----------

