# 2 12" RE SE in Integra



## eXcelon969 (Jul 6, 2009)

I've always done sealed boxes for fear of playing something below the tuning freq.

i have 2 12" RE SE woofers which will get 1500 rated watts from sundown 1500D (probably 1600 tho)

my last setup i had subs facing back (different subs). this way i could keep it all hidden but i think firing UP into the hatch window would be best.

also to port these bad boys how much room should i give them and what freq? i listen to rock mostly these days but the occasional "Young ___" or "Lil' ___" will be played.

i only really benefit from a ported box when i get around the tuning freq correct?

thanks


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## Torquem (Jun 27, 2009)

Most good sub amps will have a subsonic or "infrasonic" filter that you can set at the box's tuning frequency. This way you don't have to worry about the sub unloading. 
Every car is different, but I also have a hatchback and it sounds WAY better having them face the rear rather than firing up at the rear glass. It also sounds better the farther back in the hatch I put them. If you can move your box around, try different places to see what sounds best.
As far as box designs, contact RE and see what they recommend for them. I notice that most SQ oriented people tune around 30 while the SPL guys tune around 40. This is just a general observation.


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## eXcelon969 (Jul 6, 2009)

well winisd really shows me the difference a ported box gives me. now working with my integra and trying to keep some of the hatch usable i'm thinking i want a slot ported design like this with the slot the entire height of the box (for simplicity)










my question is on my calculations, does the width A need to be the same as B or 1/2? Do I add A+A+B for the final length or should i run a divider down the middle of B, effectively making each side seperate and then keeping A=B (well 1/2 of B in the picture)?

thanks


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## TREETOP (Feb 11, 2009)

Yep A needs to equal 1/2 of B. If you decide to add a divider, make sure to compensate for the wood thickness also.
There's no disadvantage in using a single port on one side rather than trying to calculate the box twice to put the port in the middle, in fact in some ways it may be beneficial. 
I'm running two SE12D4s off 1600w, my enclosure turned out to be 3.2 cubes tuned to 34hz. I used the box calculator on RE's site and double checked it with a calculator, it worked well.



















The reason the box is wide and slender is because it fits behind the third row seats in a Tahoe- subs forward port up:


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## eXcelon969 (Jul 6, 2009)

thanks

for symmetry i think it'll be easier in my case to run the port down the middle. so i guess i'll go with A being 1/2 of B and then adding A+A+B to get my final length

sweet box btw. nice fit. the subs dont get muffled playing directly into the rear seat? i guess you have no option


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## TREETOP (Feb 11, 2009)

eXcelon969 said:


> thanks
> 
> for symmetry i think it'll be easier in my case to run the port down the middle. so i guess i'll go with A being 1/2 of B and then adding A+A+B to get my final length
> 
> sweet box btw. nice fit. the subs dont get muffled playing directly into the rear seat? i guess you have no option


Thanks. Because of the seats being at a slant and the subs being towards the bottom of the enclosure, There's more than enough room for full excursion. Just barely. 

You'll want to calculate your box as 2 boxes, so just add A and B for length. Well really since A and B are inside walls of an elbow you'll want to add the average of A+B and the length of the opposite port walls- one of which isn't there to measure. 
Basically calculate one side to spec and mirror it to the other side minus what would be the adjoining walls. Make any sense?


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## eXcelon969 (Jul 6, 2009)

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/362376/4

that was my old setup, forget the noobish comments (notably the liquid nails one). also look at page 5. pics arent great but you can get the idea of the space i have to work with and still maintaining a usable hatch

that was 2 12's and 2cuft, i wont be putting my amps on top this time so i can get another couple inches (more if i just eliminate the hatch cover) and i could bring the box a couple inches more toward the rear of the car but i cant really go widthwise much on it. 

i dont know how i'm gonna get 3.5 cubes =/ maybe i can go into the spare tire well a bit, airspace is airspace right? just build a rectangular box down there and sort of form it into the bottom of the main box


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## eXcelon969 (Jul 6, 2009)

can i run a slot port like this and extend the bottom of my box back like that on an angle against the seats? i think i need all the airspace i can get.


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## eXcelon969 (Jul 6, 2009)

anyone? i think this would work just like a standard port, i wouldnt get the extra 2 inches of 'wall port' since the back of the port is not against a box wall.


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## mvw2 (Oct 2, 2005)

With the frequency response of these subs sealed and the cabin gain of a common car, it's better to stay sealed.

However, ported is doable and would work well if you have some EQing available to knock down the bottom end response.

Ported, ideal is 3 cu.ft. tuned to 23Hz. In a car, the bottom end will be a little bloated though and will need to be EQed down.


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## eXcelon969 (Jul 6, 2009)

23hz?!? do you mean 32hz?

i'm not looking to compete so if these subs will be "real f'n loud" sealed off 750w each, i dont really care about the other 3db i get from ported.

sealed would be a ton easier given the space i have to work with, not to mention much easier to build.

thx

edit: yes i'm planning on an audiocontrol dqxs. is my thinking about the port correct? i just get straight length since it's not a true slot port at that point?


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