# 2015 STI Build



## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Hello All,

I have had my 2015 STI for about 3 months now... so I figure its time it got a stereo upgrade.

I am working through the build phase and should be able to start installing soon.

Equipment:
Souce: Kenwood DDX719 (repurposed from my previous install, depending on CES 2015 this will get replaced if I can get a capacitive 7" touchscreen without nav)
Front Stage: Hybrid Audio Clarus C61-2 (mid bass) & Legatia L3v2 (mid range/tweeter). I am running tweeterless. (again repurposed from previous install)
Rear Stage: None, not even factory speakers
Sub: Hybrid Audio Clarus C125SW
Amplifier: Arc Audio Xdi v2 1200.6
Processor: Helix DSP
RCAs: WestCo 5 pair
Power/Ground/Signal Wire: KnuKnoceptz, Power & Ground = 4 gauge, Signal Wires = 14 gauge
Deadener: RAAMmat BXTII and Ensoluite IUO
Wire Harness: AE64 10 + 6 harness plus SWC module
Each wire is going to be covered in techflex (Uptown Red to match the black and red motif of the car) and appropriately terminated and with heat shrink applied.

I will update with pictures as the build progresses, I have almost everything ordered with the exception of my dash trim kit and a few misc parts.

I will be installing the Amp/Processor with 1 under each front seat mounted to aluminum plates, that attach to M6 posts under each front seat.

The sub will be housed in a custom spare tire enclosure that fits around my spare and will result in a completely stealth install with 0 loss of storage capacity. I built one previously for my GF's 15 WRX and it can be found here: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...pare-tire-15-wrx-enclosure-56k-stay-away.html as such, I won't be posting many photos of the box construction.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Car 1


Car 2


Wire Harness


Tech Flex on the RCAs, not completed yet, I am going to cover the "trousers" of the RCAs


Clarus Sub


Plates


Sub Ring w/ Inserts


Misc Wiring


Parts List, does not include any repurposed equipment. Maybe unneeded, I find this to be helpful especially if starting out/learning.


Radar Detector Mount, not stereo related, but custom nevertheless


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Reserved 2


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Reserved by another Subaru owner lol.


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## bonesmcgraw (Jan 7, 2013)

Can't wait for this one!!!


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

bonesmcgraw said:


> Can't wait for this one!!!


I can't wait to actually begin, I'm taking my time on it. The prep work is very laborious and I'm still second guessing a few bits and pieces of the system bc of my mid range/tweeter decision/location.

Worst case I add a set of tweeters and another xdi amp and stack them or build pods for the mids and put them on axis.

I figure I will start the install in about 3 weeks, I still have to finish my sub box, paint the plates, recieve my amp and tech flex a couple hundred feet of wires.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Most of your pics say they were deleted.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

quality_sound said:


> Most of your pics say they were deleted.


Yeah, I was messing with my photobucket files, moving, etc. and messed it up some.

Should be fixed now.


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## cpetersen (Dec 16, 2014)

Subscribed...


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## coldsoda (May 10, 2013)

watching this one... could use some of the ideas on my 15 wrx! keep up the good work


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

Subscribed! Can't wait to see this build.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Looking for a liquid resistant grommet for my power wire to pass through my firewall.

I'm thinking about getting one of these, can anyone else recommend a better solution?

McMaster-Carr


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## maggie-g (Aug 20, 2014)

can you not follow the stock wiring through the stock grommet and the drivers side fender?


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

The main wire bundle goes through the firewall on the passenger side housed within a rubber boot.

It doesn't look the greatest to slice that open and pack it with RTV, I was hoping for something a bit more elegant.

If I missed something, please take a photo and show me, I like your idea.


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## maggie-g (Aug 20, 2014)

your battery and fuse box are on the drivers side correct? if you pop the cover panel off that is along the drivers side under the hood, you will see some wiring that goes into the vehicle behind the wheel well lining. Sorry, I dont have a picture.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

outstanding idea, I will verify and plan accordingly.

Thanks alot


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## maggie-g (Aug 20, 2014)

the wheel well lining is very flexible. You dont have to take it completely out to fish your wires. You can bend it out of the way without having to take it all the way out. Might be some pictures on the NASIOC forum.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

maggie-g said:


> the wheel well lining is very flexible. You dont have to take it completely out to fish your wires. You can bend it out of the way without having to take it all the way out. Might be some pictures on the NASIOC forum.


I'm a memeber there as well, I will search around for it. Thanks again.


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## coldsoda (May 10, 2013)

Roper215 said:


> I'm a memeber there as well, I will search around for it. Thanks again.


I watched a youtube video of a guy doing the fender pass through for the power wire that helped a lot. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l73IoBd1_kE) I didn't have to pop off the side piece with the badge on it like he did in the video, just pulled down the fender liner enough to stick my hand up in there and punch a hole in the rubber and pass the wire through. Worked great! 

p.s. I did this with my '15 wrx


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Thanks man.

I just watched that same video about 30 minutes ago. The whole time he was prying on that one fastener in that video I was thinking... stop it you are gonna break it...

I will definately go this route. thanks for the video link.

I'm waiting on 5 things, and they are preventing me from doing anything except building my box which I can't do bc it's f'n 20 degrees here.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Amp, is on its way, should be here mid next week


DSP


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

^ GOOD move!!


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Babs said:


> ^ GOOD move!!


You're from asheville? I lived there for 12 or so years.


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

This is gonna be good build I am in !


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Roper215 said:


> You're from asheville? I lived there for 12 or so years.


Cool! Born and raised, though I lived/worked in Atlanta for quite a few years to get rid of the accent and converse with the 'new natives'.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

How to tech flex question....

I use the string measure technique for estimating wire length.

As I have never used tech flex before this method has always worked as a good enough close approximation.

As close doesn't really work anymore bc of the tech flex bundle, what are some techniques I can apply to this so I can estimate and dress the wires accordingly?

What I'm concerned with is the extra 6 inches or so that I sometimes get left with and tech flex won't come down off the wire when pulling it so I don't know how to removed the excess if the wire/tech flex is too long at the end where the terminations will occur.

Also do you have to worry about ground loops on a dsp? I was thinking as I have to run power and remote amp turn on to my dsp, can I not run the ground from behind the deck too?

Any help would be appreciated.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Small update: spliced into headunit wire harness to run power/ground/remote turn on to my dsp.

Received my amp, located and tapped the holes in one of the plates.

Painted both plates satin black after sanding the plates down with 80 grit, mounted my circuit break, and soldered ring terminals on the power and ground wires.

I will post pics soon.

The only prep work left is to modify the trim kit and cut my dash slightly to allow the l3v2s to fit in the stock location in the dash.

Hopefully the weather will warm up enough for me to get my last layer of glass on my enclosure so I can start finishing it. I have decided to cover the box with carpet and made my own grill.


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## ZombieHunter85 (Oct 30, 2012)

that is one beautiful car!


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## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

I will watch this build go down!!


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

I did most of the install over the weekend.

Headunit is in but something is weird with the usb. Need to modify the ground wire and redo that as the terminals for the arc don't like the larger gauge wire.

I am also getting speaker pop at turn off from my right mid range, any thoughts on this?

I also need to adjust the main bundle of tech flex that is passing over the drivers side foot well as my clutch pedal is somewhat encroached on, but I think I resolved this issue already.

Amp is installed (no cover yet as I'm still adjusting gains somewhat)

Helix dsp is installed:


L3v2s is installed:




Clarus mids is installed:


All wires are tech flexed and covered in heat shrink:


All the Tech flex I had to hide:


Sound deadener is applied to the front doors:


Both sets of speakers had RTV applied to securely attach, seal and reduce vibrations.
Both doors were deadened in the same fashion, no reason to duplicate photos.
Due to complications with the Arc terminals and some mismeasuring on my part, I am in the process splicing into the 4 signal wires and reducing from 14 to 16 gauge wire, and power/ground to 8 gauge.
I hope fixing the speaker wires and ground issue will eliminate the "speaker pop" that I am experiencing with my front upper speaker.
Once these issues have been resolved I will post installed/dressed photos of the amp/dsp.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

The wire size won't cause a pop. I'd swap the two mids and see if the pop moves. It could be a bad speaker. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Called Arc and tech support indicated that it is most likely a grounding issue with the speakers and/or amp.

I ordered wire pins for all wires to isolate each of them.



quality_sound said:


> The wire size won't cause a pop. I'd swap the two mids and see if the pop moves. It could be a bad speaker.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Subscribed! Looking great!


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Thanks man, I can't take all the credit, the sound deadening was done by my girlfriend.



She did an outstanding job, and its good bc when i deaden a card/panel it usually looks like a 4 year old did it.

I wish the midranges were installed in a more elegant manner but I can't get underneath them to do anything more, and I don't want to add thickness bc the grill and sonic reflector (can't remember the technical term) already interfere ever so slightly.

I wish I had taken the time to better inspect the amp before I half-assed the last 30 minutes of a 40 hour install, but I will fix it soon.

Nothing time and money can't take care of.

I just hope to god it fixes the turn off pop. If not, it will drive me crazy.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

I hope so too about that popping noise. Never good on the drivers either to have that surge of noise. 

It's awesome that she helped out with that. Our cars aren't exactly known for being quiet to begin with, so having that dampener added is the teets.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

I'm going to change the way I'm running my remote amp turn on too. I split the line at the headunit to go to the dsp and amp. I'm going to take the remote amp out from my dsp and run it to my amp to create a chain effect and try and isolate it. I'm also upgrading all the methods for connection to the amp and fixing a bust ground wire which I actually believe to be the culprit of the entire problem.

I fixed my wire bundle problem last night but broke one of the parts, the door sill cover so I ordered a new one.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

You're on the right track. Ensure the grounds of all amplifiers are at the same point and of the same wire type/gauge. You can check the ground location with your multimeter and some long leads as well.

After that, and with power off- disconnect the RCAs from the amplifier. Try turning everything on and see if you still get the pop. If not, it's an issue before the amplifiers/speakers (head unit, HU ground, RCA's). If you do, then its an issue from the amp forward (Amp ground, amplifier itself, speaker wires)


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

So the issue with the turn off pop was diagnosed.

Turns out I didn't think everything through when I made my harness to supply power to my dsp, and subsequently supplied it switched power (red to red...) as opposed constant (yellow to red...)

I will resolve this tonight and I can't believe I botched it. 

Now onto finishing my enclosure and getting some low notes going.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Follow Helix's guide to the letter with the remote out NOT from head unit but from DSP to supply remote to your amps. Remembered that from my dealer's experience they shared. Only feed the DSP from your head unit's remote out, then daisy out to amps from the Helix's out.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Yes, that is what has been resolved as of yesterday.

Tonight I will resolve the power issue and supply constant power to it as opposed to switched.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Gotta love the little set screws on that connector also. But at least I guess if the plug gets stripped out or something it might be source-able. Yet another reason for nice flexible primary wire, unlike the home depot stuff I used.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Roper215 said:


> Thanks man, I can't take all the credit, the sound deadening was done by my girlfriend.


Ok, you found a keeper!


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Babs said:


> Gotta love the little set screws on that connector also. But at least I guess if the plug gets stripped out or something it might be source-able. Yet another reason for nice flexible primary wire, unlike the home depot stuff I used.


thats why I bought wire pins, and will use them on all the wires, then heat shrink and color code each one. its gonna be awesome....

I have never done a true "proper" install before, and I have to say I spend more time dressing the wires and making them look perfect than I ever did installing/running them.

At the end of the day though, I learned a lot and next time it will be a lot easier as I picked up some tricks when it comes to dressing them up.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

All is more or less well now. 

Dsp and amp are functioning properly, no turn off pop any more and my headunit is installed.

I ordered my umik-1 today and will begin tuning the front stage some over the next week or so whIle I work on finishing my enclosure.

I am still trying to source a .125" thick ring as a grill trim ring and no one will get back to me.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Awesome to hear you got that pop fixed.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Got a bite of work completed on the enclosure. Trimmed the front/rear of the enclosure, and attached the sub ring to the top plate.

Enclosure Trimmed:




Ring Attached to top plate:


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

First install huh? Dang!!!!


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Babs said:


> Follow Helix's guide to the letter with the remote out NOT from head unit but from DSP to supply remote to your amps. Remembered that from my dealer's experience they shared. Only feed the DSP from your head unit's remote out, then daisy out to amps from the Helix's out.


Does this work for every DSP? I get similar turn-in pops, will feeding power to it from the head units remote eliminate the problem? Or did I justmisunderstand this?


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Also, Roper and Babs, there's going to be a GTG in April. You guys may want to attend. Music, cars, audiophiles, food. Great time, check it out.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...sq-meet-25-april-2015-near-greensboro-nc.html


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

I read you used some gear from a previous install. How do the L3v2's do without a tweeter? I just ordered a set this morning is why I ask.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Black Rain said:


> Does this work for every DSP? I get similar turn-in pops, will feeding power to it from the head units remote eliminate the problem? Or did I justmisunderstand this?


My dsp has three inputs and one output on the 4 pin/power connector.

It wants: constant power, or yellow from the harness. Remote amp turn on, blue from the harness. Ground, black from the harness. These are the 3 inputs.

I also can daisy chain downstream amplifier remote turn ons from the dsps remote amp turn on output.

The dsp is functionally just like an amplifier, it has power all the time and gets "switched" on and off by the remote amp turn on.

I was feeding it switched power from the ignition and as such when I turned the car off, none of the turn off procedures could be followed as power was suddenly removed.

What dsp do you have?


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

JSM-FA5 said:


> I read you used some gear from a previous install. How do the L3v2's do without a tweeter? I just ordered a set this morning is why I ask.


With tuning they are fantastic. In this install I was worried about the off axis response, but I couldn't be happier with how they sounded "out of the box" as they were a little too bright (reflection off the windshield). Which is way easier to fix than not bright enough.

Personally, I will never go back to a three way system, different folks like different things, I like the way a good mid bass sounds coupled to this wide band mid range, no complaints at all and highly recommend this set up whenever asked, caveated that tuning is required for proper sound.

In my previous install with them more on axis I really enjoyed them too after tuning.

I'm a semi hybrid fan boy, I run a full hybrid system and so does my girlfriend. So im not unbiased at all.

I can say that to my ears (and my friends who aren't into car audio) they like them a lot.

Also what I love about hat is that they have the best customer service of any car brand I have ever seen, followed up by arc as a close second. I was concerned about the off axis response, and emailed hat, within ten minutes I was provided all the information plus some to answer all my questions. Seriously top notch.

The install of the drivers is the only thing that sucks bc of the terminals encroaching into the ring, but if that's a big deal, buy the se's.

Cross them around 390 or so at +12, as I find that to blend better than the factory recommended of 350 at +18, just my.02, ymmv.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Babs said:


> First install huh? Dang!!!!


First "real" install. Where I took my time and planned and prepped as opposed to buying stuff and throwing it in there.

The only huge mistake made was I ordered two sets of rcas that were about 6 feet too long, but wire ties and tucking fixed that, westco said if I sent them back to him he would fix it for free, but the juice isn't worth the squeeze.

I suppose my dad's advice finally got through my thick skull and I take my time now.

Also, what headunit should I buy, the ddx719 has got to go, I'm thinking about the ddx5901 as crutchfield has it on sale and it's got 5.0 volt preamp outs.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

I have 360.3, I think it has the same style connection. So maybe I need it, mine is getting power from the rear battery and then remote line in from HU. I got this wrong, huh?


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Black Rain said:


> I have 360.3, I think it has the same style connection. So maybe I need it, mine is getting power from the rear battery and then remote line in from HU. I got this wrong, huh?


Is the battery always on or is it switched? Sorry I don't understand what is meant by rear battery.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

I guess its always on, theres no Isolator between front and back.


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## awwsnap (Jan 7, 2015)

I'm about to start a very similar build. Why did you choose the clarus midwoofer over the L6?


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

awwsnap said:


> I'm about to start a very similar build. Why did you choose the clarus midwoofer over the L6?


Size, performance and cost.

I found the Clarus to perform as well as the L6 for my application, the Clarus fits into my stock location and would not have to mod the door panel/card bc of the size of the driver. 

Plus I felt as though the Clarus provided a more boomy mid bass which I needed for my car as mid bass response is limited when driving.

Plus for the added cost, I couldn't justify it. 

I would however suggest upgrading to the L3SE's in most cases, but that's more opinion based that technically specific.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Enclosure top plate locating blocks installed:

These four blocks are the stand offs that locate the top plate at the correct angle to allow for the slope of the enclosure when it is installed into the spare tire well.

Enclosure top plate with wood hardener applied:

Wood hardener was applied to seal the top plate and increase stiffness, especially for the MDF ring which was also installed with wood glue and will be captivated by fasteners as well. The fasteners were removed to ensure the wood hardener would not "lock" them in place as I will be routing out a 1/16" to 1/8" thich 1.5" wide per side ring to house the trim panel for the grill.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Very nice work. Great attention to the construction details. Definitely taking your time to build this up right.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

I'm really struggling with how to finish the box and what to do with the side styrofoam things.

I'm thinking about carpeting the top and painting the vertical cylindrical section of the mounting hole black as I don't think I can get carpet to conform.

Furthermore if I do the flush grill trim ring the clearances wouldn't allow for the thickness.

Any suggestions? Photos/links are welcome

Side note, just purchased a Kenwood DDX492.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Slight set back due to poor design. 

The spare is retained by a large domed typed washer and an M8 bolt.

Due to the design the spare was able to float around with the enclosure being shoved into the barrel of the spare.

What I learned upon closer examination is:
The enclosure was not "landing" in the same place each time
In order to properly locate the top plate with respect to the trunk I would need to sand the exterior of the enclosure to allow for it to bottom on the spare and I would need to modify the area of the enclosure so I could use a mechanical fastener to remain the spare in a repeatable position.

Queue the sad music, bc I removed the locating blocks and subsequently drilled a 3 inch hole in the bottom of the enclosure bc I needed to raise the area .5 inches to allow for the hex head bolt.

I also went at the outside for about an hour with an orbital sander and 60 grit paper, it's very close to fitting now. A little bit more sanding and some fill work, plus a layer or two on the inside in a few places and I can finally get back to making forward progress.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Well poop. Brownie points for staying diligent though!


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Clearance for the head of the fastener top side:


Clearance for the head of the fastener bottom side:


You can also see that I am in the process of sanding/refinishing the underside of the enclosure bc I'm OCD.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Did some work on the enclosure this weekend, and I honestly can't wait till this thing is completed.


Top attached, surfaces were sanded to be flush once the board was installed, and any irregularity is being filled and smoothed out with glass/resin.


Top attached 2


Side view, put evercoat in the bottom and will finish applying to the rest of the tub after the front/rear are completed


Alignment shot


Top removed

After I installed the locating blocks, I attached the top to the tub. Afterwards I cut wood to around the max box dimensions that would fit inside the enclosure to form the front/rear walls of the enclosure. 

I have subsequently, glassesed the front/rear walls and I am in the process of applying the appropriate number of layers to make the enclosure rigid, I am about half way through.

The hardware you can see attached to the lateral boards have been removed, and was only attached for locating purposes. 

I believe I will ultimately measure the volume and lob off the sides and make them out of wood and reinforce them with glass.

The grill/ring assembly is in progress, and is awaiting paint and grill cloth. 

I am going to wrap the enclosure in color match carpet, I am also doing to make another trunk mat out of .125" material and carpet it with a hole in it to provide a flat carpeted floor with a visible grill. 

More to follow.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Dang, that's going to be awesome. You're doing a great job with this.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Thanks man.

Friday I received my MiniDSP UMIK-1 and I purchased an ASUS T-100 to control the Mic/REW and DSP software.

I also installed my DDX492 only to find out that Kenwood no longer supports Spotify via hardwire, only bluetooth and it sounds like poo.

I am returning this unit and opting for an Alpine Carplay.

I am going to tune/gain set etc once everything else is completed.

In the mean time I am still contemplating a swap to the L3SE's as I'm clearly losing my mind on this install.

So now in a few days... I get to gut my headunit again (4th time) and rerun my DSP Power,Ground, Remote turn on... Awesome job Kenwood, just awesome... my 3 year old DDX719 would run spotify... but the new ones won't... also, it will in fact play the songs, the software throws up a splash screen and forces you to go back into iTunes, for this fact and the rude as hell customer service, I won't ever use Kenwood Decks again.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Two steps forward, three steps, sideways? Maybe? I dunno. Very sorry about this problem, but the solution will usually be better anyways.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Roper215 said:


> Thanks man.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



At this point, just throw in a tablet. A Nexus should easily fit. I'm going to see what I can do about getting an iPad Mini in mine after I pick it up in a couple of weeks. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

I can't tell you how many times I've pondered a mini.

I feel like I want a decent single din to recess into the existing opening with a mini mounted in front of it. So I can still use my steering wheel controls and listen to CDs should I want to.

Do you have any links to any builds/mounts/how-to's for this? I also would want to mount the device and not inlay it within my existing trim panel as they are 150 bucks each, I already had to purchase one bc of going from nav to non nav as the corners are different.

It seems a little sketchy, but I'm totally in if it is doable.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Roper215 said:


> I can't tell you how many times I've pondered a mini.
> 
> I feel like I want a decent single din to recess into the existing opening with a mini mounted in front of it. So I can still use my steering wheel controls and listen to CDs should I want to.
> 
> ...


There's a GB on the SQ FB page for P99RSs for $850. Might want to get in on that. I already did.  

I had an iPad mount for my '14 STI but it won't fit a '15. Beyond that, there are the Soundman kits or you could just send it to them and have them build it. If all you want is a surface mount there are TONS of options. I wonder if the Mountek nGroove Snap 2 might work. 

Before this Pioneer GB popped up I was going to get a Sony single DIN since you can control literally EVERYTHING the radio does through the USB connection to the iPad. Hell, I may do that anyway and keep the P99 for a rainy day.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

quality_sound said:


> There's a GB on the SQ FB page for P99RSs for $850. Might want to get in on that. I already did.
> 
> I had an iPad mount for my '14 STI but it won't fit a '15. Beyond that, there are the Soundman kits or you could just send it to them and have them build it. If all you want is a surface mount there are TONS of options. I wonder if the Mountek nGroove Snap 2 might work.
> 
> Before this Pioneer GB popped up I was going to get a Sony single DIN since you can control literally EVERYTHING the radio does through the USB connection to the iPad. Hell, I may do that anyway and keep the P99 for a rainy day.


Is this control specific to Sony? Which model are you referencing?

I think I will do a pocket style dash kit with the "pocket" at the top and a proclip mount attached to the upper portion of the kit after I reinforce/fill the pocket to have the device mounted there.

I was think of going with the 80 not 99 bc of the price, I'm not trying to drop 1400 on the source unit alone after the mini is purchased as well.
I will check out those mounts you referenced as well.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Yes. I think it's an App Sony makes but Bing has used it before and really liked it. I liked that you could control the tuner, eq, volume, etc. all from the iPad. He used the MEX-GS810BH. I forget the car he did it in but I'll ask him. 

At least in my '14, you couldn't mount the pocket kit upside down.  

If you get in on the GB on FB, the 99 is only $850. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

I will have to modify the dashkit to accept what I need it to do, nothing some epoxy can't fix.

if I drop 850 on the deck and another 450 on the mini, I'm sitting at 1300, and I have a dsp so the added tuning ability isn't needed nor according to Pioneer will either radio work with Spotify.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Why wouldn't you use the iPad for Spotify and sell the processor? Simplify the signal chain. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

quality_sound said:


> Why wouldn't you use the iPad for Spotify and sell the processor? Simplify the signal chain.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


it won't do spotify.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Got a little bit of work done, got the ends sanded, and filled with resin, glass and evercoat:


Next I will determine the volume of the enclosure and do my best to get it close to 1.5 cubic feet.

My estimates say its about 2, I plan on cutting off the sides where the wooden blocks are, and installing wood boards. This will help ensure proper volume and bc of the design, getting a strong bond between the top and the sides would be difficult based on previous iterations. By using wood, I will be able to attach the top to wood all the way around with wood glue and screws.


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## quickaudi07 (May 19, 2010)

Looks awesome, good job so far. cant wait to see the finish sub box


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

quickaudi07 said:


> Looks awesome, good job so far. cant wait to see the finish sub box


As this is my 2nd one, if you decide to go this route I can give you a few tips and changes I'd recommend to make your life easier.

It's not hard, just time consuming.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Roper215 said:


> I will have to modify the dashkit to accept what I need it to do, nothing some epoxy can't fix.
> 
> 
> 
> if I drop 850 on the deck and another 450 on the mini, I'm sitting at 1300, and I have a dsp so the added tuning ability isn't needed nor according to Pioneer will either radio work with Spotify.






Roper215 said:


> it won't do spotify.



Then why did you mention neither Pioneer radio having Spotify? I'm confused. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

quality_sound said:


> Then why did you mention neither Pioneer radio having Spotify? I'm confused.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm not sure, I think Im confused now too.

I'm gonna go with the Sony unit, I watched some videos and read some reviews, and its definately a solid alternative, especially with the hardware/app to use. 

The only thing I don't like is the fake carbon fiber on the deck, it's real lame. Almost as much as the faux fiber in my car from the factory.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Oh I know, I've seen it. It's one of the (admittedly small) reasons I went with the WRX over the STI.

The Sony is a good unit though. I think you'll be surprised by it.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

quality_sound said:


> Oh I know, I've seen it. It's one of the (admittedly small) reasons I went with the WRX over the STI.
> 
> The Sony is a good unit though. I think you'll be surprised by it.


Did you get a 15 WRX?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I pick it up next week if it arrives on time. WRB Premium, 6MT.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

I hate to be bearer of bad news, but the STI and wrx both have the same fake carbon fiber interior pieces.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

****, I forgot. Oh well. I'll paint it or something.


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## quickaudi07 (May 19, 2010)

Roper215 said:


> As this is my 2nd one, if you decide to go this route I can give you a few tips and changes I'd recommend to make your life easier.
> 
> It's not hard, just time consuming.


Thank you for the head's up but I'm doing a box on the side of my car I have a huge gap in my TL and that's where the sub is going.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Check out the 9:55 mark. They don't do anything with it, but it seems like an iPad isn't too difficult to fit and their kit makes the single DIN install easy. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3uc1eAtzXAk&feature=em-subs_digest


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Its very neat, and if I could cleanly remove all the faux fiber I would do this in a heart beat.

The problem is that the shifter bezel for my car is 375 bucks, bc of it being hydro dipped, and no other versions fit due to the design.

I have previously laid real carbon fiber, and think it would be cool to do that again in my STI on all of the faux fiber pieces. Unfortunately the shifter bezel prevents that, and I worry about the finish when installing/removing the ipad on a regular basis.

I may remove the shifter bezel this weekend and poke around in there and see if I could reasonably do something in that area, hell I would even settle for wrapping it with dinoc.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

The shifter bezel? Why are we worried about that piece? Are you going to mount the iPad there instead of in front of the radio?

The Impreza has the same dash and I'll bet it's a lot less expensive to replace any of those pieces with Impreza parts. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

To mount an iPad in the dash, the dash trim piece has to be filled and painted.

I want all of the current faux fiber parts to match.

Which means that 4 parts in total need to have something done to it: left dash inlay, radio bezel, right dash inlay and shifter bezel.

The sti shifter bezel is different than the WRX bezel which is more or less the same as the Impreza bezel.

Ergo, I need to be able to resurface the shifter bezel and it's almost 400 bucks. I would either wrap in vinyl or resurface the parts with real carbon fiber.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Ahhhh, now I see. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Well I finally made real progress, pics will be up soon.

I finished the enclosure, complete with carpet, terminals and mounting holes.

Only things left to do is run the sub wire and make/dress the wire from the quick disconnect to the box and I have the finish installing the mounting hardware, hopefully tomorrow I can get that taken care of. 

I am still playing with how I'm going to truly finish the install but im pretty sure im going to make a trunk mat and add a grill to it.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I saw what you meant about the lower part of the dash in the STI. Weird that the WRX only matches the radio bezel and dash inlays but I'm with you. If it matched before, I'd want it to match again. 

What about hydrodipping?


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## musclemonkee (Jan 27, 2012)

Awesome mate. Nice build


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Terminal Hold Drilled


Side attached/resined and glassed


Baking in the sun even if it was 40 degrees


Carpeted, grill isn't attached, sub is mounted with low profile socket head cap screws


Terminal Shot


Overhead shot, notice the holes in the bottom corners, those are the mounting holes to attach this to the car, they will have a stainless washer, lock washer and nut once installed.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

That's some high quality craftsmanship right there!


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

it's not installed yet


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

You are doing us Subaru owners proud.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Dude has some mad skillz!!! 

We should start a Subie Sound Club


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

I've just been messing with this stuff for a few years and watching bings installs.

Plus my dad is a Mechanical Engineer with over 30 years of design and fabrication experience which has been incredibly helpful over the years.

Its not much to look at bc it's completely stealth, but thats almost my favorite thing about the install, is that besides the headunit, its completely factory looking.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Theres nothing wrong with that. We gain knowledge from someone, and the best are from family. 

Having a stealthy install is great, we just love to see how you did it. Maybe it benefits another in ther strive to pursue audiophile excellence.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Black Rain said:


> Theres nothing wrong with that. We gain knowledge from someone, and the best are from family.
> 
> Having a stealthy install is great, we just love to see how you did it. Maybe it benefits another in ther strive to pursue audiophile excellence.


I'm always eager to help or answer any questions I can.

Please if you have any, I will do my best to try and answer them and explain why I chose to do something a particular way.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Well hopefully you will be closer to finishing the total build. 

In case you didn't know, there's a GTG in April in Greensboro. Like to see you there and demo your Subi and demo others.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Black Rain said:


> Well hopefully you will be closer to finishing the total build.
> 
> In case you didn't know, there's a GTG in April in Greensboro. Like to see you there and demo your Subi and demo others.


I've been considering attending, just not sure if I can make it or not yet.

As for the build I expect it to be completed within the next two weeks, then I figure another couple of weeks to tune.

I am returning the Kenwood and getting an alpine CarPlay.

Just gotta get my old one sent back to Amazon and get the refund for it first.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Well I know you won't regret it. You definitely will enjoy the company and the knowledge that will be there.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

I get everything put in, and the sub installed and configured to work with the dsp.

Now comes the fun of setting up the dsp and tuning everything.

My approach is going to be use pink noise and measure with the umik-1, then tune from there.

As I don't have an oscope, can I set my gains using ohms law and sin wave files?


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

This is coming from an absolute freakin' newb who barely knows how to plug in a mic, so take it for what it's worth.. Add $2.75 and you can get a yuppie coffee. From all I've absorbed on mic tuning, get yourself a copy of REW (Room EQ Wizard) running which can generate it's tones and send to your source.. Measure with sweeps. But pink noise can work too.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Ok so here is my gear:

Asus T-100 Mini Laptop (has a USB port)
MiniDsp UMIK-1
REW software
Helix DSP software
USB splitter for mic and dsp hook up/config at the same time

How do I get the tones from REW into my system?

Also, do I set the gains first then tune, then reset the gains or what? Also, when I have tuned before I always take a decremental approach (remove the high bands, not increase the low ones) then readjust the gains afterwards. Just confirming this is the same way this time or is there a better approach? I set the gains using a DMM and Ohm's law.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Alpine Carplay and micro bypass to be installed tomorrow.

I ordered an oscope to set my gains, and I can feed the system test tones from spotify.

Should have the system more or less RTA'd by end of the weekend using the mic and REW.

I just have to deaden the rear doors and trunk and keep tuning after that.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Got everything installed and functioning.

I messed around with the RTA/UMIK-1 and some pink noise, so far my curve looks like this:



I'm working to smooth things out, and as I do so, I refine the octave division until I can get things as smooth as possible.

I'm pretty happy with it right now, just needs a few more hours of tweaking, it's probably about 90% tuned ATM.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

I'm having a hard time deciding which is more laborious... techflexing cables or tuning my system... two days ago the answer was much more clear.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Lol, ah yes. The joys of tuning.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Adjusting the gains next to bring the mid bass/mid to highs to bring the system into balance. I think it's pretty close.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

I had the pleasure of being introduced to Hajji Grape, and he tuned my system for me... Watching someone tune by ear, and ask questions proved invaluable. After about two hours of listening/adjusting this is what the rta showed.



I have to say that it sounds fantastic, I requested the mids be slightly higher as I want it to sound good while in motion, not "clinically" proper when stationary.

I still have to adjust the staging somewhat, but I would say it's 95%. I might need to bring down the 600 to 2k bands a couple db too, but in my case, that graph represents what good sound "looks" like.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

The 600Hz-2KHz are elevated because you asked for the mids to be higher. I agree that I'd lower them as well, but it looks like you got what you asked for. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

quality_sound said:


> The 600Hz-2KHz are elevated because you asked for the mids to be higher. I agree that I'd lower them as well, but it looks like you got what you asked for.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I 100% got what I asked for. the elevation was not a jab at Hajji, it was something I asked for, and after listening to it for a couple of hours and putting a RTA to is, I decided to reduce those frequencies.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Yep. Having heard a few of Hajji's setups, we used to work at the same company, I can say he's got a great ear and mad tuning skills.

He's in here somewhere.. Can't remember his username.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Roper215 said:


> I 100% got what I asked for. the elevation was not a jab at Hajji, it was something I asked for, and after listening to it for a couple of hours and putting a RTA to is, I decided to reduce those frequencies.



Ahhhh, gotcha. I think it's FINALLY stating to warm up here so I may be able to decide on some amps and get going on my car. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

I (and by me, I mean my girlfriend ) deadened the rear doors, trunk lid and trunk yesterday.


The lid was then covered in foam, just didn't snap a pic of it.





I forgot the pic of the trunk too.

The rear speakers are still installed, but they are not hooked up to anything.

I am going to install some F.A.S.T. rings up front to try and get that last little bit of mid bass.


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## few35t (Dec 10, 2014)

pic of trunk with box installed?


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## maggie-g (Aug 20, 2014)

looking good. And if you like it, put a ring on it!


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

HAHAHA, believe it or not... she isn't interested in marriage (period, not with me). 

We've both been there and done that...


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## maggie-g (Aug 20, 2014)

is that the way of telling us you are swingers?


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

w35t_fg2 said:


> pic of trunk with box installed?




that is the one I built for her, I don't have a pic of mine installed yet, but it's pretty similiar. Search for my box build thread if you are interested in the construction.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

maggie-g said:


> is that the way of telling us you are swingers?


No. I gave her a Breitling instead.


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## KCDCEE (Mar 25, 2015)

Excellent work on your install, mate.

I, too, have a '15 STi, I went through a very laborious install in march, took a week off for it. Like you I used to just throw it all in and turn it on. This time, I've really taken my time with what I've learned over the years and did it as right as I know. AVIC 8100NEX with android auto, MS8 under driver, two cerwin vega stealth amps under passenger, Cerwin vega 10 in back, CDT hd coax in rear, cdt HD comps in front.

Question: For your L3v2's how did you mount them? Just make holes? I will be swapping out some CDT tweets in that location in favor of a pair of L3SE widebands. What was your xover point between them and your mids? I think I read 360 @ 12db? do they get high enough? I have everything @ 24 slopes currently and its very tight and punchy. 

I will be taking a note from your install and fab some aluminum plates for the DSP and amps to the oem mount point. Also probably going to swap for the XDi 1100.5 as well down the road. Thanks for all of this info, great writeup! Lots of help! My girl also helped me, but with wiring, wasn't so good at the rammat and ensolite.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

For the mounting, its the only really trashy thing in my entire install, I hate it, and I will eventually get around to upgrading them to L3SE's to clean up the install.

Fortunately for you, you already have the L3SE's. If it were me, which its not... I would do the following (and will do when I do the swap in my car).

Now for the pieces that are the same:

Remove the grill (flat head wrapped in tape and pry a little and then remove)
Remove the stock tweeter (1/4 drive with 1/4 socket with a phillips bit inserted due to angle) 
Depress one fastener attaching wireharness to dash
Place new speaker in general location
You will notice (at least with the V2's) that the speaker will not sit flush, get youself a sharpie, and outline the area towards the front inboard area preventing the speaker from sitting flush
Get a heat knife / soldering iron with the blade attachment and remove this material.
Be careful here, bc you don't want to be overzealous and remove too much material.
Once you are close enough for your likings, remove the ragged edge with a file and test fit the speaker.

You will also need to modify the grill that was removed in step 1 in these instructions.
In a similiar manner to how you remove the plastic grill stuff on a door panel, do that same thing here. I use a box cutter with a blad that can be extended a long way out and is "flexible", but we all do things differently.

Now.... here is where things get easier 

For mine, I literally Just RTV'd them to the dash and ran a few screws into the dash. This is a bad idea, and shows no class in my opinion, although it is effective.

With the L3v2's, the phase plug is around 6mm taller than on the se's, which precluded me from doing this:

Get yourself some 1/16" thich 6061 aluminum, and two hole saws. One for ID and OD of the L3SE.

Template, and tap the hole locations from L3SE to the plate, RTV the aluminum ring to the dash, install the speakers.

Thats my .02 anyway.

Some of my information is based on memory, and I will get you my Crossover points, but they are way low compared to stock specs.

You can text me at 8287686788 as well.



KCDCEE said:


> Excellent work on your install, mate.
> 
> I, too, have a '15 STi, I went through a very laborious install in march, took a week off for it. Like you I used to just throw it all in and turn it on. This time, I've really taken my time with what I've learned over the years and did it as right as I know. MS8 under driver, two cerwin vega stealth ammps under passenger, Cerwin vega 10 in back, CDT hd coax in rear, cdt HD comps in front.
> 
> ...


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## KCDCEE (Mar 25, 2015)

Cool, got it. I've got my speaker grills shaved down to as thin as possible thanks to the other tweets I have installed. I will test fit with the aluminum ring, see how it goes, then RTV it in. These l3SE beauties are glorious, can't wait to install them on Saturday. The HD100 tweets can't hang with this active setup. 

Hoping they will work fine tweeterless off-axis.. based on what you've said, they will. Any tips on that note?
Looking to do l6SE in the doors down the road too, if they will fit.

Thanks for such a quick response.


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

Roper215 said:


> I (and by me, I mean my girlfriend ) deadened the rear doors, trunk lid and trunk yesterday.
> 
> 
> The lid was then covered in foam, just didn't snap a pic of it.
> ...


Did deadening the rear doors make a big difference? I've been debating on whether it's worth the time and money to do it in my car.


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## quickaudi07 (May 19, 2010)

It will make the car quiet that's for sure ^^^


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## KCDCEE (Mar 25, 2015)

Doing all doors will definitely help with road noise, but more-so with overall response from your drivers.

To really get luxury silence, you have to do the floor with serious thick/heavy barrier type material under the carpet. Then you're talking much more weight. More than I want to add on top of what I've already done.


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

KCDCEE said:


> Doing all doors will definitely help with road noise, but more-so with overall response from your drivers.
> 
> To really get luxury silence, you have to do the floor with serious thick/heavy barrier type material under the carpet. Then you're talking much more weight. More than I want to add on top of what I've already done.


Yeah I have my floor front doors and trunk all done but wasn't sure if it would make a noticeable difference doing the rear doors as well. I guess it can't hurt.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Hey, sorry I've been absent from this convo, I've been traveling for work.

My PC is dead ATM and I cannot hook it up to provide my cross over points. I will get that to you this weekend. I do remember exactly but Haiji set them lower than advertised, but if you watch the power, you won't have any issues.

I do remember they were all +24 to help combat phase issues.

As for deadening.... I noticed a weird sensation as the front was much more quiet than the rear while I was delayed on doing the deadening on the rear. So I strongly recommend doing the rear doors. 

As for the trunk area itself, it's really just a feel good. The trunk lid however is a must to kill the "junky" sound of the vibrations IMHO.

People talk alot about weight, but my fat a$$ weights way more than it should I figure what's another 100 - 125 lbs in a 3300 lbs car for deadening / equipment.

If you want weight savings, get an S2k/Miata and strip it (shameless plug for my project car I'm thinking of buying shortly).

Just my .02, YMMV


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

KCDCEE said:


> Cool, got it. I've got my speaker grills shaved down to as thin as possible thanks to the other tweets I have installed. I will test fit with the aluminum ring, see how it goes, then RTV it in. These l3SE beauties are glorious, can't wait to install them on Saturday. The HD100 tweets can't hang with this active setup.
> 
> Hoping they will work fine tweeterless off-axis.. based on what you've said, they will. Any tips on that note?
> Looking to do l6SE in the doors down the road too, if they will fit.
> ...


Hey man, I looked into swapping to L6's and decided the modifications required results in the juice not being worth the squeeze.


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

Roper215 said:


> Hey, sorry I've been absent from this convo, I've been traveling for work.
> 
> My PC is dead ATM and I cannot hook it up to provide my cross over points. I will get that to you this weekend. I do remember exactly but Haiji set them lower than advertised, but if you watch the power, you won't have any issues.
> 
> ...


Damn, Looks like I'll be sound deadening my rear doors now too! Lol


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## KCDCEE (Mar 25, 2015)

I only mention weight since we are in a performance vehicle so it's always something worth considering.

I found a good tutorial on removing the plastic rear deck and deaden all of that to get rid of what rattles I have left. Probably do it this weekend. Did the trunk lid, huge help in sub sound. I think doing the deck will save me from having to do the entire trunk. 

I ran good speaker wire to my front doors, not using the stock wiring, so I should be able to power the l6se's properly. Running the wire is easy once you figure it out, no cutting at all, using the factory ducts, I wrote up how I did it over at iwsti, cant post links yet.

According to Patrick from subaruaudio.net the spacers he made for me already will accommodate for the l6 drivers with plenty of room behind. I will get those down the road considering what I've spent already!

Roper, what kind of screws did you end up getting to mount the l3s? Doing a depot run tonight or tomorrow for supplies, I'm guessing something with a wide thread to bite into the dash? I was more curious on length. I'm also curious to see what happens when I crossover at 360/24 between the l3s and my mids, should be a fun-packed day! Again, you've been a great help. Will probably do a hack install to test, then do a more buttoned up deal next weekend. I plan on doing some wire rerouting and other stuff this weekend along with this speaker swap.

Lately my weekends have either been throwing parties for friends or obsessing over my car in some manner. I dropped out of the audio game for a long time, feels good to get back into it, I've missed real quality sound and being a part of it every single step. Wallet's a bit light though... hah!

KC


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## KCDCEE (Mar 25, 2015)

Scratch that.. just finished temp installing the SE's, crossed at [email protected] 80W each right now... Man, what a difference, they fill in the gap those tweeters couldnt. I am missing a slight high range though, probably due to off-axis.. Gonna keep playing with the crossover points but MAN what a wonderful difference. I don't think I need different midbass drivers anymore. Glad I held off..

I can't compare them to the V2's that you have, but if you plan on upgrading, I would. Warm, full, not bright at all. A poor review, I know, but after playing some tracks my tweeters were having issues with, separation between guitar, cymbals etc, these handle it wonderfully, I can hear each instrument as they should be heard. Even the electronic stuff I like has a new level of depth to them. Girl and I will be taking a nice long drive tonight!


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Hey man, sorry for the delayed response, for some reason I didn't get notified that the thread had been updated. 

Anyway... don't freak out when you see the crossover points....

l3v2: 201 HP Butterworth +24
Clarus 6: 50 to 201 BP Butterworth +24
Sub: 25 to 50 LP Butterworth +24 

I know the curves sound a bit different, but turn the gain down and play around in that area. I have been jamming the bejesus outta it for over 4 weeks and several long trips, no issues. 

Also, tune the midbass up slightly bc roadnoise kills those frequencies in our cars.

As for the change up to the new speakers, I have tested them side by side and whereas the SE's are sexier and easier to install, they offer almost 0 difference in SQ.

Its cool that you've already got them though, and honestly I know as soon as I have 350 to just throw at my system I will, right now I'm in the process of building up my hand tool collection with all Proto stuff, an that sh*t isn't cheap.

Let me know what you think and it sucks you don't live around here, it would be cool to do some side by side comparisons.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

As a shameless plug for my latest bit of insanity... please see below....


and the girlfriend got some new wheels....


and a grill and new badges too...


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Roper215 said:


>




Hmmm...lol The new body style headlights remind me of this "Fry" meme.

Jay


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

HAHAHA, you're not wrong. Although, I'm a big fan of the front end of the car.

I upgraded the lighting on mine. 
DRL to 5k
Driving lights that are Xenon and 5k, ditched the fogs
Upgraded all the turns/reverse lights to led
As soon as my front badge is done I will be installing my JDM grill too.
I won't bore you with the details, but I am probably at this point the number 2 authority in the US on Subaru badges, i'm joking to some extent, but I have spent an inordinate amount of time/effort and money learning how to do this... and at 60 bucks a throw, it doesn't take long to rack up some expense.

I figure my next upgrade will be the HT auto body kit and some black lug nuts.

I'm in the process of doing a real CF overlay on the faux fiber parts that come in the car, unfortunately the shifter bezel in the STI does not lend itself to being modified at all, so I think I'm stuck with it, which eats bc it's horrid.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

It's a good looking car for sure. It isn't my favorite Subie, but I like it.

What's the deal with the badges? Do the light up or are they JDM Spec or something?

Jay


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## DLO13 (Oct 24, 2010)

JayinMI said:


> It's a good looking car for sure. It isn't my favorite Subie, but I like it.
> 
> What's the deal with the badges? Do the light up or are they JDM Spec or something?
> 
> Jay


No chrome. People don't like chrome on cars anymore. lol


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

JayinMI said:


> It's a good looking car for sure. It isn't my favorite Subie, but I like it.
> 
> What's the deal with the badges? Do the light up or are they JDM Spec or something?
> 
> Jay


Nope, nothing cool like that... I did a color scheme that matches OEM paint colors CWP stars and CBS. I had them rattle can mixed at CARQUEST. I didn't care for the chrome/blue, and I decided to do something "custom".... 

My GF's are ISM stars and real carbon fiber background to match the center caps of her wheels. 

The shorter, less complicated version is this.... it became my Moby Dick, and I had no choice but to figure it out, even at the expense of my sanity. Call me Ishmael.

So just to provide the steps... bc I'm clearly a self inflicted sadist, here goes:

Get new badge, soak in brake fluid for 12 to 18 hours. If any longer than this, you may develop fissures in the part, and you have to throw it away.

Remove all paint, chrome etc from the part. I used 1k grit wet/dry sand paper for the major surface, and toothpicks for the "depressed" areas/stars.

This is where things get "fun", minus the quotes and n, and add cked... the paint/chrome isn't going to come off clean. So you will be picking, and picking and picking... every so often, you will need to spray Easy Off Oven cleaner to "eat" the chrome that is visible. Continue doing this process until you have removed every bit of blue/chrome from the badge. 

Here is where things start to get really interesting....

Use plastic adhesion promoter, two coats.
Spray entire part with color that you want the stars. The fan on the CARQUEST cans is the best rattle can spray you can get, and the paint covers very nicely. It also does not require a clear coat which will save time. 

Apply 3 to 5 coats, let sit for 24 hours.
Apply 3 or so coats of WATER BASED polycrylic.
The water base is important, bc it's a different chemistry than the paint, and will not eat/run the base coat that was applied for the stars.
Let sit for 3 Days, this is incredibly important, and after all the time you've spent, you will want to rush this. DON'T.
After the 3 days, sand the entire flat area of the back surface. This will leave very sharp lines for the stars.
Hit with 2 more coats adhesion promoter and then 3 to 5 coats of the background color desired.
Let sit for 24 hours, sand off any overspray / polish the badge and install.

This sounds like not a big deal.... The total time per badge is ~10 to 12 per badge. In my opinion, order them from custom carbon and vinyl. As I said before it became an obsession, and one I hope doesn't afflict anyone else.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

I was just wondering. I bought some "Broken K" badges for my Rio, and they're starting to pit. I was trying to decide if I wanted to mod them, or buy new ones.Admittedly, it's been 3 years and we use salt on the roads up here, so I'm not mad about it or anything.

But that sounds like a LOT of work. I don't think you have to worry about it inflicting me. lol

Jay


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Interesting. I've wanted to change mine to black and red, but really am not a fan of those vinyl overlays. Will definitely be following your instructions for this.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Roper215 said:


> Nope, nothing cool like that... I did a color scheme that matches OEM paint colors CWP stars and CBS. I had them rattle can mixed at CARQUEST. I didn't care for the chrome/blue, and I decided to do something "custom"....
> 
> My GF's are ISM stars and real carbon fiber background to match the center caps of her wheels.
> 
> ...


Next time, try using a safety razor blade to make a cut at the edge of the chrome. If you can get it to separate you can pull the chrome off in either a single sheet or in larger pieces. I dechromed the MkV Jetta grill I put on my MkV GTI this way then had it color matched. That was a bigger piece but it may still work.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

quality_sound said:


> Next time, try using a safety razor blade to make a cut at the edge of the chrome. If you can get it to separate you can pull the chrome off in either a single sheet or in larger pieces. I dechromed the MkV Jetta grill I put on my MkV GTI this way then had it color matched. That was a bigger piece but it may still work.


The problem is not getting the chrome to delaminate from the substrate. The problem is the recursive shape and it mechanically locking itself into the tight tips of the stars. You can soak the part in a mild solvent and it will more or less lift out, but you run the risk of fissuring the part.


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## KCDCEE (Mar 25, 2015)

Roper215 said:


> Hey man, sorry for the delayed response, for some reason I didn't get notified that the thread had been updated.
> 
> Anyway... don't freak out when you see the crossover points....
> 
> ...



Good to know they don't have that much of a difference in sound, I would've gone with the V2's had I not found such a good deal on these. 

I'll try these crossover settings tonight, thanks for the info.

There's a road trip in our future, if we plan on a cross-country tour, I'll let ya know. That badge work is meticulous indeed. Furthest I've gone outside of stereo stuff so far is be headlight overlays, better Motul oil and LED's wherever there weren't any. I'm not touching the engine this time around. Not until I've got money for a second, these EJs are touchy. Nice work on your touches, though, really makes it a different car.


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## DLO13 (Oct 24, 2010)

any performance changes yet? Or plans to?


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

DLO13 said:


> any performance changes yet? Or plans to?


No. 

See below for additional context if desired.

I modified my 2011 WRX and kept on and kept on until it was no longer pleasant to drive. I bought this car to modify only aesthetically, I even purchased the "gold" warranty to prevent myself from being tempted.

As things fail going forward, I will upgrade with higher quality better parts.

I contacted a reputable engine builder in the Subaru world, and asked him a very simple question: what's the check gotta be for to make 300 reliable WHP. His response was simple. 

"25k, anyone can add a bigger turbo to a Subaru, but see if they run right after 30k miles and see what the bill has been to keep it running, if its still running at all."

This gentleman is regarded as a premier builder, and his stuff is legit. The other way you can think of it... if Subaru could get another 50 to 75 BHP for what costs the consumer a couple grand, they could do that for almost no cost if baked into the manufacturing process, and it would increase sales. They don't, and its bc the failure rate is too high.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

KCDCEE said:


> Good to know they don't have that much of a difference in sound, I would've gone with the V2's had I not found such a good deal on these.
> 
> I'll try these crossover settings tonight, thanks for the info.
> 
> There's a road trip in our future, if we plan on a cross-country tour, I'll let ya know. That badge work is meticulous indeed. Furthest I've gone outside of stereo stuff so far is be headlight overlays, better Motul oil and LED's wherever there weren't any. I'm not touching the engine this time around. Not until I've got money for a second, these EJs are touchy. Nice work on your touches, though, really makes it a different car.


Like I said, just be careful with the volume, it really can tear the speakers apart if you cause them to translate too much.


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## DLO13 (Oct 24, 2010)

heavy modding would scare me as well. I drove in a modded 2015 the other night.. 1000cc injectors, e85, catless downpipe, new intake, and a few other mods im leaving out... it does 330whp. The car scared the **** out of me. I am sure a stock would be plenty of fun for me, but he also gets 32mpg.... THAT is what makes me wonder most...


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

DLO13 said:


> heavy modding would scare me as well. I drove in a modded 2015 the other night.. 1000cc injectors, e85, catless downpipe, new intake, and a few other mods im leaving out... it does 330whp. The car scared the **** out of me. I am sure a stock would be plenty of fun for me, but he also gets 32mpg.... THAT is what makes me wonder most...


Yeah, I get that, my thing is this I test drove 2012/2013 911 S's, GTR, M3, Shelby GT500 and a few others I forget now, trying to find something that I liked more as an all around package. I bought a 2015 STI, it just fits me better, and in six months or so I will buy a dedicated project car.

On the street, if all you are concerned with is red lights that's cool, but I prefer the finesse of a true manual, entering a corner after a double clutch heel toe down shift and nailing an apex proper, call me old fashioned. But dollar for dollar, the 2015 STI is the best STI ever sold in the US and it has my attention.


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## KCDCEE (Mar 25, 2015)

Roper215 said:


> Yeah, I get that, my thing is this I test drove 2012/2013 911 S's, GTR, M3, Shelby GT500 and a few others I forget now, trying to find something that I liked more as an all around package. I bought a 2015 STI, it just fits me better, and in six months or so I will buy a dedicated project car.
> 
> On the street, if all you are concerned with is red lights that's cool, but I prefer the finesse of a true manual, entering a corner after a double clutch heel toe down shift and nailing an apex proper, call me old fashioned. But dollar for dollar, the 2015 STI is the best STI ever sold in the US and it has my attention.


Agreed.. I'm glad I waited out for this model.

I'm finally in something that I'm not instantly tempted to mod/tweak/break

Only thing broken about it was what I've just fixed for the most part, infotainment and sound..

It takes the southern cali canyons like they're nothing. Some track time in my near future as well, I hope. Plan on having this car for a long time. Looks like we both got the gold warranty for the same reasons.

I've crossed them @ 300 for now out of fear.. Loving them, I think its a good sweet spot for me.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Roper215 said:


> Yeah, I get that, my thing is this I test drove 2012/2013 911 S's, GTR, M3, Shelby GT500 and a few others I forget now, trying to find something that I liked more as an all around package. I bought a 2015 STI, it just fits me better, and in six months or so I will buy a dedicated project car.
> 
> On the street, if all you are concerned with is red lights that's cool, but I prefer the finesse of a true manual, entering a corner after a double clutch heel toe down shift and nailing an apex proper, call me old fashioned. But dollar for dollar, the 2015 STI is the best STI ever sold in the US and it has my attention.


Are you coming to the GTG this weekend?

Jay


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

No, I unfortunately will not be in attendance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

KCDCEE said:


> Agreed.. I'm glad I waited out for this model.
> 
> I'm finally in something that I'm not instantly tempted to mod/tweak/break
> 
> ...


I agree, the only real complaint I had was the infotainment too. But it's easily remediated with some time and money. 

What are your other cross over points?

I am always playing around with the tune to some extent, and I wouldn't mind checking yours out.

How are you tuning your system? You got a link to your build / photobucket? (pardon me for being lazy, as I didn't search )


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## KCDCEE (Mar 25, 2015)

Roper215 said:


> I agree, the only real complaint I had was the infotainment too. But it's easily remediated with some time and money.
> 
> What are your other cross over points?
> 
> ...


Sadly, I have learned that I am the absolute worst at documenting my work... Probably due to the fact that it was 8 years ago the last time I did a full build and documenting wasn't as much of a popular thing to do for the sake of forums. That poor Maxima, I learned a lot about vehicular electrical systems through my mistakes with that car... Poor thing survived a cerwin vega stroker 15 with powerbass 1500 in the back, with all arc audio throughout the car via 800 Watt class AB which destroyed two alternators before I learned any better.... I was 26.. bass was life..

On another note, everything I've installed, aside for the HU, is very temp.. I wanted to give it a month at least to make sure everything works as it should without need to return or replace. I've reached that point, and with a big road trip coming up, it is time to rip a lot of it out, re-route wires/cables, techflex, mount and finish properly. I will document at that point, since frustration during install will be out of the equation. 

I'd love to know more specifics on those lovely aluminum mounting plates you fabbed for under the seats.. My best friend is a custom fabricator and has a badass shop.. If I could give him specifics, he could whip things up for me right quick. It's not to say we couldnt figure it out on our own, of course... Did you not say the OEM mount bolt under the seats was an M6? 


My tuning: Full disclosure, this is my introduction to "tuning" and active crossovers. Because of that I chose the MS8 after much research. It was almost a 360.3.. but I'd still be in my car pulling my hair out... I felt the MS8 gave me a soft intro to tuning and the many aspects involved. It does much of the work for you, but still allows you to set crossovers and a final 31 band EQ tune to touch it up if needed. I will say, it is a masterpiece of technology and surprises me how it can eq, tune, and time align the way it does with 5 minutes wearing mics... I do hope to graduate to something more complex.. your helix, a used PS8 or what have you, but that's nothing I am much concerned with at this point, I just want it to sound GOOD and still have a DIY flexibility to mess with it all I want.. So far, so good.. Expensive hobby, right?


After reading plenty about the ms8, it's shortcomings and the workarounds, I've been able to get it to produce properly through all 7 drivers, now it's the finite adjustments left, I.E. perfect crossover points and final EQ touches..

I am 5 mins away from redoing my current crossovers, but as it stands currently:

subs at 75
rears are full at 100
front mids are 160 i think
the SEs are at 400 after backing off


My plan is to up the LPF for the sub to something that will play more range, and lower the HPF of the SEs for the same reason. the mids i think will be better off LPF at 200. 


You were right to crank the levels on the front door mids, they were nonexistent, even after fully sealing the doors.

I'll give you a full xover rundown after I'm happy with it tonight.

EDIT: I'm contemplating sealing the SE's in the dashboard... rammat and ensolite to seal all holes around it.. This was after hearing some of the highs climb randomly and get very washy, I figured this to be due to backwaves coming through. If it's worth it, I will let you know


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## KCDCEE (Mar 25, 2015)

after some toying around last night, I've settled with [email protected] 24 for sub, [email protected] for mids, [email protected] for highs, [email protected] rears. This is how the MS8 allows me to handle crossover points between speakers. 

This seems to have the best overall feel, and the cleanest blend throughout. The l3se's are singing at this range and blend well with the cdt HD-6 drivers in the front doors. I think I am finally happy. Now to find something else to obsess over.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Badges?






Next is probably a HT auto body kit and maybe a gloss black vinyl roof, but I'm really not sure I can do the whole vinyl roof thing.... tbd. 

Why cross the mids at 300 and the mid bass at 200?


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## KCDCEE (Mar 25, 2015)

Roper215 said:


> Badges?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


To be honest I am nervous taking the se's down to 200... I want them to last.

The HD6 I put at 200 to after trying 300... perhaps it wasnt the best idea
I would def be in on a HT kit as well, but want to see what Varis does with their pricing, a little more aggressive.


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## KCDCEE (Mar 25, 2015)

I think also I made it confusing... The way the ms8 handles crossover points, that is...

sub to front is @ 200

mid to high is @ 300

I explained poorly.. I am unable to handle xovers for specific drivers.

emblems look great! nice work, maniac!


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

The plates were a massive painin the ass. It took about a whole day to mock, temp, and build.

They are different on each side... The straps are easy especially if you've got the right tools, etc.

The big problem I ran into is that my arc was 14" long and the inner clearance of the rails was like 14.75. So getting the plate and amp square were tight to say the least.

It's unfortunately a trial and error fabrication for the plate.

What I did was made a crude wooden box that fit snug between the rails and had double sided tape on the bottom. Placed it on top of the strap which I secured in place to get my plate location about the strap as the strap is not square with respect to the car.

I ordered all my fasteners from McMaster Carr and yes the studs under the seat are M6 x 1.0 (course thread). I ordered my sheet aluminum from online metals.com

I'm pretty sure I pm'd you my cell if I didn't let me know, I understand if you have specific questions and don't want to wait days for my slow ass to respond.


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## KCDCEE (Mar 25, 2015)

Thanks for the help again, I think my bud and I will get something figured out, I may just do a frame of some sort with what he has in his shop. My amps are super small, Cerwin vega stealth b4 and b1, so I have some room to play, its amazing how small these guys are for their power and accuracy. 

I'll let you know what i come up with.


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