# Best raw drivers for midbass



## atownmack (Mar 20, 2013)

To those who are into active setups with raw drivers what do you think are the some of the best midbass woofers? I been looking at getting some Dayton reference 7" (Rs180) for my midbass? I went to a show last week, and a guy there said he replaced his HAT Clarus with them the Dayton's and Vifa xt25, and he prefers this to the HAT. Also another guy said he likes SB acoustics 6" SB17MFC35-4 midbass woofers to Hertz hsk.

I already use Vifa xt 25 tweeters and pair them with JBL P660c woofers. What are ya'lls opinions of some of the best raw driver midbass woofers?


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## Beckerson1 (Jul 3, 2012)

I enjoy my rs180 speakers. Ive got the aluminum cone but they door have a paper cone if your not to much into the sound of the metal cones. Overall a great sounding driver. Fairly flat respones as well.

I cross mine from 80 to 2k with good results. Strong midbass prescence IMHO so some cuts in the 200 to 1k region is what I had to do to tame them a little bit. Mellowed out as they got some more play time on them. Get loud as well.


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## Bayboy (Dec 29, 2010)

Daytons are fine for lower budgets, but they will need quite a bit of taming while still having some limitations I didn't like. I think you could do better by adding a bit more on what you're going to spend on those.


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## Sine Swept (Sep 3, 2010)

Try out some Morel's, the 8's I'm running are $149 on PE. Though I paid $200 each shipped within Canada.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

The Hertz Mille 1600.2 is my current favorite. Smooth and detailed but plays very low. They handle lots of power and do not break up.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

LaserSVT said:


> The Hertz Mille 1600.2 is my current favorite. Smooth and detailed but plays very low. They handle lots of power and do not break up.


Not raw drivers.. If you can't fit an 8, look at the exodus anarchys. If you can fit an 8, then you have tons of options


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

SkizeR said:


> Not raw drivers.. If you can't fit an 8, look at the exodus anarchys. If you can fit an 8, then you have tons of options


? You can buy the ML1600 by themselves (well as a pair). And he pointed out he was looking at Hertz and also said he was looking at 6" and 7" speakers. I just kept within the confines of what he was looking for.


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## Tweeky (Mar 31, 2011)

atownmack said:


> To those who are into active setups with raw drivers what do you think are the some of the best midbass woofers? I been looking at getting some Dayton reference 7" (Rs180) for my midbass? I went to a show last week, and a guy there said he replaced his HAT Clarus with them the Dayton's and Vifa xt25, and he prefers this to the HAT. Also another guy said he likes SB acoustics 6" SB17MFC35-4 midbass woofers to Hertz hsk.
> 
> I already use Vifa xt 25 tweeters and pair them with JBL P660c woofers. What are ya'lls opinions of some of the best raw driver midbass woofers?


Whats your price range?

Judging from your other equipment it appears you aren't looking to spend 700 on a pair of MB's.


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## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

first things first, what's your budget? secondly, can you fit an 8?

personally, I have been running the morel h8.1 now for years and really like them. I might be the only one here that runs them as I've not seen much backing for them. I like them because they are shallow, they are efficient, they handle/like power, and work well in a door or kicks. I had them in my doors in two different vehicles and now currently in sealed kicks with less than the recommended air space. so, being that they are 8ohm, they are still quite hungry for power, but have great xmax! I have them currently running 200hz all the way down and they want it. I had to cut the 125-160 at a pretty steep slope, but ended up boosting the 63-80. at something like 160 a piece, I feel they are worth the money.

however, I'm curious about the new faital 8 in 4ohm. other sleeper brands to consider might be silver flute. or, you might have the budget for some scans, who knows?


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## Tweeky (Mar 31, 2011)

BTW: Focal makes a fairly cheap 8" component. I don't know if you can buy the 8 separately.


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## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

Pm sent


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## gckless (Oct 11, 2012)

I love my Exodus Anarchy's


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## atownmack (Mar 20, 2013)

My budget is around $200 to $300 tops for the mids, i said the reference series because they are now $30 a piece, but if you'll feel that by expanding my budget i can do better, then point me in the right direction. Also i try to stick with 6" to 7" mainly due to concerns over depth the most i can do is 3.25" in my camry doors.


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## MetricMuscle (Sep 16, 2013)

I think you need to define what frequency range we are discussing.
Mid-bass is generally from around 60Hz to maybe 400Hz, the range above the sub and below the dedicated mid. If you are crossing over to a tweeter then you are looking for a mid, not a mid-bass. Yes, there are plenty-o mid range woofer which can hammer out the mid-bass but they are covering too wide a range to be considered a mid-bass driver.


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## Bayboy (Dec 29, 2010)

Midrange, mid-bass, woofer, mid-woofer, etc.... but you're right, stating the desired frequency range would be a better directive.


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## atownmack (Mar 20, 2013)

Ok that makes sense. I cross the vifas at 2k to 2.8k, (I've been playing around to see what i like best), but something that will have smooth and strong mid bass and midrange, and will mate well with the tweeters.


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## Bloodyjames (Dec 7, 2013)

I'd suggest some CDT, Diamond Audio, or Audible Physics if your looking for a solid 6.5 mid-bass driver with a punch.


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## Ultimateherts (Nov 13, 2006)

Like mentioned before there are so many options. My favorite in doors so far have been the HIVI F8. However, there are many many other options as I have run everything from the older H-Audio Ebony 6.5 to the Image Dynamics IDQ8. 
It's all about some key install musts that have to be done to get the optimum results:

1) Bracing the door is an absolute must and nothing else will make the speaker sound better.
2) Using sound deadener is next in line because behind bracing this to me is a big reason for rattling.
3) Stuffing the door to me is optimum because it can act as almost a sealer for the door. It also drastically changes the frequency response to something more geared towards midbass. 
4) Power requirements are a key because with too little power you get well less than optimum results. Everyone has become so focused on sub bass and subwoofer size/output they fail to realize there midbass can not keep up with the output!

Consider these and you will have an easier time selecting your drivers.


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## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

again, morel h8.1 is very shallow, with a shallow basket allowing it to fit most 6-7" openings with little/no modification. either way, they make a paper cone version for a little less, and they all should be able to extend up to appx 2500 or so. I believe you can routinely find good deals on ebay for drivers like those.


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## Ultimateherts (Nov 13, 2006)

You could also do the Dynaudio Volvo mids.


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## mikelycka (Apr 4, 2008)

Sine Swept said:


> Try out some Morel's, the 8's I'm running are $149 on PE. Though I paid $200 each shipped within Canada.


can you post a link?


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## 2010hummerguy (Oct 7, 2009)

Audible Physics H6.5MB, best value I've used for that range. Use them between 80hz at 12db slope to 3khz no sweat. Punchy midbass and midrange on par with Esotars...ask me how I know 

Dynaudio anything in the 6-7" range will do very well for bass/midbass but don't have midrange quality quite like the H6.5MB or Esotars.


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