# YARI - Yet Another Ram Install (2004 Dodge Ram Quad Cab)



## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

I've been out of the game for a long time and after spending some time lurking the forums my interest in car audio is becoming a problem again .

Budget, availability, weather and a variety of other random factors should make this somewhat different from the average build log. If nothing else the order at which some things were done. I'm doing much of the work on the driveway...in the winter. Don't chalk this up to "some crazy canuck" because I spent the last 6 years in Playa Del Carmen, Mexico...so I'm 3 times as cold as anyone else out here. I just hate all these awesome builds and me sitting around doing nothing about it. 

Two words, Multiple layers

I'd also like to point out that I am complete Clineselect groupie. Seeing his build log definitely inspired and motivated me to get my audio system in check. I've also asked him more than my fair share of questions so I'm hoping some of the things I've come across and learned will be useful to others. Thanks Clineselect :thumbsup:

My equipment selection is still in the works and was started off by a simple need. Entertaining the 7 year old while in the back seat. Seeing as I'm working with an extremely limited budget that was the next factor that was considered in most of the equipment selection.

That brings us to the head unit. I'm working with a Jensen VM9311TS in-dash DVD. Yup...pretty crappy, but after all was said and done it was cheap and for now it fulfills my purposes...movies for the kid.

Total cost of Jensen 9311 project was about $190 US

I've really, REALLY wanted to go with a 3 way setup for the longest time so I'm hoping I'll be able to pull it off.

A while back my buddy donated most of his old audio gear which included some Canton Pullman 325ti tweeters. So that's where my equipment started.



















He used to run these in a full size van off a PPI a204 and they were awesome. Super clear sounding and loud, but other than that, I don't have any more information on them. If anyone has some literature, I'd love to see it.

Total cost of tweeters: FREE!!!

Next up I found a pair of Seas L12RCY locally for a good price. Not many people in this forum (or others for that matter) running these but they look pretty good on paper..and the price was right

Total cost of Mids: $75 Canadian

I drove around for a few weeks listening to the factory "premium" infinity system rattling in the doors and HAD to do something. This was months prior to me even really thinking about a decent system in the truck, that's how much the rattling was pissing me off.

So I ended up using some Fatmat Rattle Trap mostly because it was local and "cheap".

Total cost of Fatmat: $160 Canadian for 100 sq. "kit" (kit means a cheap exacto knife and roller)



















I ended up going a bit nuts and using the whole 100sq feet only in the front doors.

We've all seen deadening a million times so I'll be very brief.



















Inside and outside done. I'll probably add another layer of deadening once I get my hands on some better product...but that's a bit later on down the line, like summer time. I'll also add some ensolite at that time.


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## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

Now that I had my tweeters and mids picked out, it was time to settle on a midbass. After all the reading and opinions, it was basically between a Dayton RS-225 or a Peerless 830667. Both get good reviews and both are very similarly priced. I was learning more towards the Dayton...for no real good reason, then I heard some Peerless 6.5s and after consulting with Clineselect (he must have tried 20 different kinds of midbass in the doors of the Ram) the choice was made: The Peerless 830667.

After searching around and not being able to find any "deals" on the Peerless I was steered in the Solen.ca direction by a member of Canadian forum. This saves me having to deal with the ever _helpful and friendly_ customs people as well as exchange rates.

Super fast shipping and great packing job. Highly recommended





































Total cost of Peerless 830667s: $150 Canadian

The most recent thing I've been working on over the last couple of days was to get those peerless in the doors. I was hoping I'd be able to finish up today...but the weather turned on me and went from +9 celcius to -13 over the course of the day.

After eyeballing the door for a while I had a pretty good idea of what needed to be done.

This is the stock 6x9 cut out.










I'm a very hands on guy, so I looked around the house for a bit and luckily found a take out food lid that is the exact size I need as a template for the peerless.

This gives you a good idea of what needs to clear and I can see what could possible interfere with the magnet.










Here you can see the gear comes out a bit when the window is rolled down. Clineselect pointed me in the right direction...which is towards the front and up when it comes to cutting out the doors. This way everything clears and there is minimal door panel modification involved also.










We've come to the moment of truth. Most of my friends look at me like I'm crazy when I tell them I'm cutting my doors. I get the "you took a perfectly good vehicle, ripped it apart and cut a bunch of stuff out" a lot.

so using my trusty Chinese dremel knock off and a fiberglass cutting disc we get this:



















Now try to do the same on the other side


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## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

Next I cut some baffles out of 3/4" mdf and painted them black to seal out moisture. I had the paint already and I think resin is too expensive for this purpose. Besides, I plan on replacing the mdf baffles soon when I add the deadener/ensolite.










I originally planned on using non hardening clay in between the baffle and door. I swiped some from the kid's craft stash, but I wasn't too happy about the multiple colors, so I started to work it all together and then realized it's probably easier to buy some of a single color. 

I searched the local stores and the only place selling single color blocks of clay was expensive enough for me not to care about the multiple colors the kid had going on.

Then a couple of days ago I stumbled across this product in the electrical section of Home Depot.










Looking at the product label it looks to fit the bill and at $1.29 a LB it's definitely priced right. I picked some up to see what it's all about.










As far as I'm concerned this is pretty much the same if not better than the clay, or at least what my kid had in his stash (which the product has NON HARDENING MODELING CLAY specifically written on the label). It's also a lot cleaner to work with than the other stuff I had. Hands were not greasy at all and it didn't come off in my finger nails.

Has anyone ever used this Duct Seal for car audio purposes? 

I put the heat gun on it for a few minutes to see if it would melt and it held up just fine, so that doesn't seem like it would be a factor.

Back of the stock panel










I covered one of the holes for the door panel mount with the baffle so I had at least one thing that I needed to cut off. 










Once I cut that off I was able to almost get the door panel on. Another quick check and it was easy to tell where a few other things needed to be modified.



















shaved a few things here, cut a couple there....










Not the best shot, but everything clears


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## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

Like I mentioned earlier the weather turned on me today so this is as far as I got, but as soon as it warms up a little bit I'll throw the baffle on the passenger door, wire things up and mount the speakers.



















Usually I try to keep things stock as much as possible as far as factory wiring and mounting locations are concerned so other than the cutting to clear the speakers only 2 additional holes were drilled.

Clockwise from the top, the first 2 baffle mounting holes are the original locations for the door wiring harness. The last 2 are the stock 6x9 mounting locations.

The door harness runs right along the edge of the baffle and the only thing I did was drill 2 holes and move the stock retaining clips. Any bare metal was painted with primer to prevent rust.


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## chevbowtie22 (Nov 23, 2008)

Looks good so far. I'm planning on throwing the same set of Peerless's in my '08 Denali here in the spring. I'll definetly be keeping this thread in mind.


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## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

Some minor updates while I wait for "warmer" weather

Got the passenger side mounted










I'm not a huge fan of the regular spade connectors so for the tweeters and mids I'll be using Dean's plugs.

For anyone not familiar with Dean's plugs they are most commonly used for Remote Control purposes and can handle quite a bit of voltage/amperage.














































The finished product


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## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

Very sweet! Nice log, I hope you keep it goin like this.

The primary purpose of the non-hardening modeling clay is to add mass, so the question is, is the other stuff as heavy?


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## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

To me it feels pretty much the same as the clay. 

The stuff the kid had was in smaller pieces so I would have to make some sort of measuring device to be 100% sure.

I used a pound in each door securing the mounting baffle and it sounds real solid.


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## txredxj (Mar 2, 2009)

looks good


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## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

minor updates...

I had high hopes starting off the day...but it quickly turned out to be "one of those days".

I started off trying to do the "quick" task, which was to finish up my 2 month old alarm install. I can't seem to get the damn thing to get my truck going via remote start and the door pins keep triggering the alarm even after I isolated them individually with diodes. 

Since it's not audio related...let's just say I'm just about going to break down and have someone else finish the last 20%.

I moved on to mounting the 8" in the door. Seems simple enough right? Suuuuure it is! I screwed the speakers to the baffles, patted myself on the back and ran a quick errand.

20 minutes later I'm pulling up to the drive thru speaker and I roll the window down.

You can see where this is going right?

The window hit the magnet on the way down. It didn't stop dead, but it definitely hit. Once I got home further investigation revealed the magnet didn't clear the window...but we were very close. 

It took me over 2 hours of fiddling with the mounting baffles before the window cleared. I was going for a clear the window and don't stick out far combo...so maybe I was being overly picky, but at this point I was thinking later the door panel won't fit.

Anyway.....finally mounted



















Next I moved on to making some plexi covers for the large open area of the doors. That went decent, but it was too cold for the DAP to set anywhere near as fast as it should. I guess I'm lucky it set at all.




















Tomorrow it's supposed to be warmer, but might rain. We'll see what happens. 

I'm hoping I can finish the plexi covers, throw some fatmat on them and put the door panels back on. Been long enough. With my luck things won't fit by a fraction again and I'll spend whatever free time I have fighting with my door panel :worried:


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## designer485 (Sep 19, 2006)

Looking good so far, keep up the good work!


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## ClinesSelect (Apr 16, 2006)

Looking great! The SLS were only 4mm deeper than the XLS but that was enough for them to scrape where the window glass attaches to the frame. I ended up using a 1" mounting baffle as a couple of the other drivers I tried were a little deeper. 95mm seems to be the limit when using a 0.75" baffle.


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## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

ClinesSelect said:


> Looking great! The SLS were only 4mm deeper than the XLS but that was enough for them to scrape where the window glass attaches to the frame. I ended up using a 1" mounting baffle as a couple of the other drivers I tried were a little deeper. 95mm seems to be the limit when using a 0.75" baffle.


Thanks, but I still have a LONG way to go

I KNEW there was something to it! but after taking the speaker in and out a few times I started to think with the size of these 8s I'm sure it's cutting it close anyway.

While I was at it, I was thinking 1" would have been the way to go, but I wasn't sure if it would fit with the door panel, or rather how involved the "fitting" process would be.

BTW, I happened to hit the car wash today prior to my drive through revelation, and after removing the speakers out of the doors I had a few water drops on them...right about the magnet part. I noticed the same thing withe the factory 6x9s when I was taking them out.

You ever notice something like that?


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## ClinesSelect (Apr 16, 2006)

The 1" fit just fine in my truck. My baffles are a little larger than yours but, with the door panel on and the window/lock/mirror switch still off, I put some Ensolite between the baffle and the door, basically decoupling the door from the mounting baffle. It takes a few layers but you can reach in through the opening to get access. That helped with rattles. 

The door panels also seemed to vibrate (make noise) where the different pieces are plastic spot welded together. I wiped down the plastic with alcohol and put Damplifier strips on the inside where the pieces meet each other. They are rattle free now. 

I've not had any water intrusion into the door to the point where it got on the drivers.


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## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

Have a few more updates but it seems that I misplaced some of the pictures I took a few weeks ago. 

It's nothing revolutionary so.... 

I had to enlarge the factory dash tweeter mounting location so these Seas would fit in there. Once that was done I made a baffle out of some thin mdf, painted it and mounted the Seas to that.

This is the end result.










Dean's for the tweeter and mid




























Same deal on the passenger side



















I mounted the mids one day, and the next day I had some more time to see where I might position the tweets. Seeing as those Canton's are HUGE and mounting them (to my satisfaction) would require some more modification than I'm willing to undertake at this time looks like they're on hold for now.

Instead, I'll be testing out a set of Exile X1T pro. I came across these buying some random speakers from some guy I found on craig's list. Most of the stuff didn't work, but I managed to get a couple things going and recoup my money and this is one of the things I'm left with.

I've searched a bit to see if there are any reviews/opinions on these tweeters without much success, but they look like they're well put together, unlike the other exile speakers I ran across.










I'd REALLY like to stay away from mounting tweets in the a-pillar mostly because I don't care for how it looks and I was always told not to mount them in there by various "in the know" people. 

I'd like to try to get the tweets mounted just like the mid firing at the window but I see tons of installs with tweets in the pillars and not too many with people mounting them on the same surface as the mids. Any reason for that other than lack of space?










Would I complicate things with my tweeter location? From my understanding and what I've been taught, this would definitely be the preferred way to mount them as opposed to the pillars. Any comments on that?


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Wow... I am watching this one.


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## Sr SQ (Dec 8, 2006)

Fabulous tutorial C-bass, keep it comming!


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## TXwrxWagon (Sep 26, 2008)

if you don't use the Canton's.,.... I am interested in buying them from you.... PM me...

nice build so far...

Rob


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## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

Thanks Sr SQ

TXwrxWagon I don't think I'll be selling them...at least for now. I have an idea in my head that would allow the seas/cantons to co-exist on the same mounting surface, but it's a bit more involved than I'm willing to get right now. That will soon change seeing as everything is thawing around me


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## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

found some of the pictures I was talking about.

Here is the stock cutout for the dash speaker.










The larger template is the size I need for the mid to fit, the smaller is the canton. This is why I'm not going to use the canton tweets yet, too big for trying to keep the dash stock.

You can see in the picture how the mid template overlaps the stock mounting holes a bit. In this shot it was pushed to towards the right of the factory cutout. I was trying to get it so that I would only have to cut one side, but couldn't make it happen. 

It doesn't look like much but it's a few mm all around and after all was said and done I was surprise at how much material I had to remove to get the magnet in there.










after all was said and done I had to sacrifice the left screw hole.










Here's the template for the mounting baffles.



















I made a baffle a few weeks ago but actually installed it the other day. I used 3/4" MDF because I had it already and you can make out the dimensions I used written on the mdf. It fits right in between the plastic trim on both sides.










While I was in the baffle making process I drove around with everything removed for a couple days and let me tell you it is LOUD. Turn on the heater and it gets MUCH LOUDER. I'm very interested in seeing how it will be after I deaden everything properly. I'll probably seal one of the vent also.

After some carpet.


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## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

This was the first try at some amp rack mounting brackets. I picked up some Stanley drawer/cabinet brackets, heated them with a torch and bent to shape. 

I couldn't make the base part of the L work so I only used the angled pieces in each corner of the rack. The base of the L wasn't long enough to clear the "corner" with the seam sealer you'll notice in the next picture.










Instead I used some Simpson strong ties for the lower mounts. The 4 brackets in the first picture were $2 for all 4 and the Simpson strong ties were .77 cents each. You get a lot more metal with the Simpson strong ties...



















With the lower brackets in the L shape, the mdf board would make hit the rear cab wall enough for me to notice and get annoyed at. I'm sure if I had the rear wall deadened and ensolite it wouldn't be an issue but that's not the case.

Also the strong ties aren't as solid as I'd like and are quite flexible (like they're supposed to be for their true purpose) so knowing that with any real weight on that amp rack they'll probably flex forward and back as I decelerated in that config I had to revise things slightly.

This was almost finished, the final touches were made once the amp rack was in place and using a hammer and wood block to get it to sit as flush as possible and minimize movement. In the near future I'll fab up some real brackets using the strong tie ones to go on now that I know they sit right.










flushness










Amp rack screwed in and my ground block installed.










This is where I'm grounding to via 0 awg cable. I drilled a hole, sanded down to the bare metal, screwed the cable down and painted over the hole thing with primer.










I scored myself a used PPI DCX-730 so that now I can properly cross over the front stage. 



















My project funds are now officially depleted, so I guess I'm stuck using the stuff I have at hand until I find a job.


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## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

One of the first things I did was ran new speaker wire everywhere.

I'm using this 16 awg monster cable since I found it on sale close by. After all was said and done I used almost a 100 ft of the stuff.










There are a couple different ways you can run the wires to the doors through the molex, at least in the front doors anyway. I chose to drill a hole in the molex plugs.

One thing I had HUGE difficulties with was reinstalling the molex and I'll explain why.

I originally started on my passenger side because the rubber boot wasn't re-installed properly after someone was in there before. I figured since it was out half way it would be easier to work with right? 

Inside the rubber boot there is two plugs, a black and white one.










and they're held together with this black...uhhh...holder










The rubber boot snaps over everything and the lip rests on the flat part of the black holder thing. 

Now in my past experience I've always tucked the rubber boot into the inside of the door jamb. I tried doing the same....for almost 3 days on and off.

After coming to my senses (Did I mention how cold it was when I was working out there?) I realized there is now way this should be this difficult...after scratching my head for a bit longer I had a revelation. 

LOOK AT THE DRIVER'S SIDE STUPID!!!!!

Then I saw the error of my ways.

What I was trying to do was impossible. I was trying to tuck the lip of the rubber boot when there is no way that would have worked seeing as the Dodge design leaves no room for that. The lip simply rests on the outside of the jamb and the black holder snaps into the hole holding everything together.

This is what I was trying to tuck into the inside of the door jamb. You can see by now I have "removed" the black holder.










Here you can see the driver's side with the black holder in place. You can clearly see what I was trying to tuck in (red rectangles) was impossible since the holder takes up all the room.










Anyone wanting to undertake this project take a look at the tab at the top of the plug. There are 4 of those tabs you need to push in to get the thing to come loose. The ones facing the front are fun. Using and angled pick helps.










On the passenger side I ended up tucking in the lip like I originally wanted...but that's because I broke the holder thing. So far it's been almost 2 months and it hasn't popped out...so I'm not going out of my way to stir that pot again.










The difference between the stock wire and the monster










I drilled through some free space in the black plug.


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## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

Tried doing this with the rear door so I didn't have to drill a hole but it didn't work. Plug wouldn't fit back in the door.










So I drilled.




























I also found a few more things for me to fix while I was in there. This seems to be a very common problem with the rear door harness in the Rams.


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## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

Minor updates,

Here's where I mounted the top of the amp rack



















Had to cut the 3/4" MDF around the seatbelt so it would sit flush.










The arm rest will be getting bolted to the sub box.










I'm using a JL Audio 300/4 for my tweets and mids. Here's a shot of it mounted on the amp rack.



















My color coded wiring. Green for the driver's side and red for the passenger.










Hopefully I'll be able to fire up the front stage tomorrow.


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## rexroadj (Oct 31, 2008)

Looks great!! and nice choice of drivers. I am going to change my ram this summer if I get time. You and ClineSelect have given ram owners a great how to log to refer too. I had a ton of trouble with the door/wiring/rubber boot thing, this would have been great years ago. But still nice to see now! keep it up and enjoy the end result!


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## HawaiianBassHead (Sep 18, 2007)

I'd LOVE to hear your setup just the fronts to compare to mine. I have a titan crew cab w/SLS 8"s and Xtant/Morel 4" mids and Blau VC100 tweets I think they're called. 

looks very nicely put together. my buddy has a ram quad we put a set of MBQ 6" comps up front and left it deadener free. would like to see him do more with it like this  but he doesn't share my love for audio. he did do a mostly glass ABC box under the back seat after lifting it and I'm loaning him an RE SX 12" he's running in it off a JL 1000/1 haven't got to really hear it but I'm happy for him  can't wait til he gets a new sub tho so I can have mine back LOL ANYway, looks really nice!


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## fallbrookchris (Feb 13, 2009)

I have always thought about using Deans Plugs. Traxxas, another R/C company, also makes great plugs. Either way they both are designed for the absolute best transfer of large amounts of clean energy. They hold tight too. If anyone needs a great plug I too would highly suggest going this route.
Do not use Tamyia style plugs. They are very cheap, weak and can fail. They do have3 a little clip on them that keeps them connected but do not use them. The Traxxas and Deans Plugs will not come apart on their own but can be pulled apart with decent force as they are designed to take the jars and hits that a R/C car traveling at 70+ MPH.


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## fallbrookchris (Feb 13, 2009)

I case anyone is looking for plugs check out "amainshobbies.com" carolinaRC.com towerhobbies.com etc. Traxxas style battery connectors or Deans Ultra plugs will fit the bill, don't use Deans micro plugs or like I said the Tamyia style plugs even though they are cheaper.
R/C battery connectors are designed to take up to a 12 gauge wire and have a lot of surface area at the connection. If soldered properly they can give a better connection that if just straight wire was used. Hope this helps someone.


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## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

HawaiianBassHead said:


> I'd LOVE to hear your setup just the fronts to compare to mine. I have a titan crew cab w/SLS 8"s and Xtant/Morel 4" mids and Blau VC100 tweets I think they're called.
> 
> looks very nicely put together. my buddy has a ram quad we put a set of MBQ 6" comps up front and left it deadener free. would like to see him do more with it like this  but he doesn't share my love for audio. he did do a mostly glass ABC box under the back seat after lifting it and I'm loaning him an RE SX 12" he's running in it off a JL 1000/1 haven't got to really hear it but I'm happy for him  can't wait til he gets a new sub tho so I can have mine back LOL ANYway, looks really nice!


I'd love to hear my setup also! 

I'm pretty close to getting to that stage, but each time I think I'm in the home stretch something new pops up. 

The main thing holding me back now is I was sold a DCX-730 by a jerkoff on this forum and turns out the buttons were busted. I don't have any more funds to throw at this project so I'm at a stand still.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

(OK...I have to do it...)


Kick his Ass, C-bass!

:laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

Been a long time but I finally have some updates.

I sold the JL 300/4 and over the following weeks/months managed to come across some old school Rodek amps. After all was said and done I spent less money and got more amps out of the whole deal.

Currently I'm working with a 225i, 235i, 250i & 275i.

Now the plan is to have the 235 on the Exile tweets, the 250 on the Seas mids, and the 275 on the Peerless 8s.

Originally I was running some pathetic 8gauge power wire. It was a temporary solution because when I was running the wiring under the carpet the first time around I noticed LOTS of salt and corrosion on the floors.

I knew right then and there that I had to first address that issue before I ran any wiring...and while I was at it I had a new carpet to go in there. Being that Canadian winters probably wouldn't be the best time to throw in a new carpet everything has been waiting for the warmer weather.


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## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

Factory carpet has seen better days



















but here's what lay underneath!










The white stuff on the bottom of the carpet is rock hard salt














































Some more salt...










The old "power" and rca wiring










Sad looking if you ask me...good thing we're going to rip it all out


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## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

To skip many boring steps, anything that was corroded was sanded down to bare metal and treated with POR15.





































I would love to be able to cover the entire floor with sound deadener but my current lack of cash flow is putting a hold on that.

So this is what I have to work with :surprised: at least for this round 










I'll be laying it on the rear wall and some "choice" floor locations.










New wiring and accessories. The only reason you see an abundance of Monster Cable is because I come across it dirt cheap in the surplus section of a local auto parts store...so it's ok


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## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

This is how I'm going to be securing the wiring. Construction adhesive and cable tie mounts. No drilling involved.










This time around I'm using 3 RCAs instead of only 1.























































There is also some wiring for the PS/2, video cables and the media module for the Jensen flip out.


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## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

Power wire 0 awg Knukonceptz



















I was able to squeeze it between the gap for a clean run



















She cleaned up pretty good










Rear wall before










After










Some closed cell foam










and our amp rack/amps


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## FlameRedHemi (Jul 4, 2009)

looks great. 
i've gotta get started on my ram sometime......


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## King Nothing (Oct 10, 2005)

How did I miss this install?? looks good. Im working on my mega cab cummins right now


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## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

FlameRedHemi said:


> looks great.
> i've gotta get started on my ram sometime......


Thanks, finding time right now is the hardest part..that and waiting for the mail man 



King Nothing said:


> How did I miss this install?? looks good. Im working on my mega cab cummins right now


I was M.I.A. for a few months so this thread got buried for a while.

I was checking out your install, looks good. Jealous of your truck and equipment :blush:


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## King Nothing (Oct 10, 2005)

C-Bass said:


> I was M.I.A. for a few months so this thread got buried for a while.
> 
> I was checking out your install, looks good. Jealous of your truck and equipment :blush:


I LOVE my truck. Ill never sell this one. LOTS of wheeling and dealing, buying, selling, and trading to get to where im at for equipment. some of it i regret. I just traded my 12 inch EDs for 4 8 inch JBLs


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

nice install


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## arrivalanche (Jun 27, 2008)

Looks like you need to clean your ground up. Take a wire brush and get all that paint off and youll be good to go.


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## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

arrivalanche said:


> Looks like you need to clean your ground up. Take a wire brush and get all that paint off and youll be good to go.


Have a better look


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## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

Check out what came in the mail today.










This guy did a kick ass packing job!




























So now I'm thinking of 1 of these bridged for the 8s, the other for the seas mids and the Rodek 75i for the tweeters.

Tomorrow I should have some time to play around so we'll see what happens.

You know...when I started this whole project I thought "there is lots of room behind those seats", that didn't last long.


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## Sr SQ (Dec 8, 2006)

C-Bass said:


> You know...when I started this whole project I thought "there is lots of room behind those seats", that didn't last long.


Ha ha I know what you mean
4 XXKs / H700 / distribution blocks and wiring pretty much cover the whole rack
Looking forward to posting up the pics of my install as soon as its finished.
Fortunately there have been a few ram logs done lately to aid in my install, thxs guys


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## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

After upgrading the wiring I had a few issues to deal with. As is usually the case when upgrading.

First off the 0 awg wire won't fit into the distribution block.










So I bought an adapter...which didn't reach the input of the distribution block.










Under the hood we were having some similar issues.

I was planning on using a breaker and screw type terminals that I had from another project. The terminals were too beefy for the breaker and didn't fit on the screw without having to "modify" things.



















I ended up having to buy a different fuse. I will be mounting it beside the battery tray on a piece of 1/2" aluminium.



















The local stereo places wanted WAY too much money for a decent distribution block so I turned to ebay for a solution. Picked this blinged out unit for $35.










Other than being able to fit the 0 awg power wire, added bonuses include 6 outputs and a smaller footprint compared to the previous one. That in itself is a big plus.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Well good news after all! Its the little snags though that make us appreciate it more in the end.


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## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

The weather hasn't been cooperating at all (pretty much this entire summer), but I managed to make some progress.

Finished covering the floor in closed cell foam



















This is what I used for adhesive. Same thing that's holding my suede headliner in place.










I finally was able to install my new carpeting. It's not the same quality as the factory, but the dealer wants $1400 (Just asked for fun today while I was there).

I'm about $250 in and over half of that cost is shipping to Canada and taxes/customs/brokerage fees. Once I heard the dealer cost on the carpet my Canada customs raping seemed like a steal.



















I'm hoping this weekend I'll get some more work done.


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## speedfreak28 (Nov 22, 2008)

great build, If you dont mind do you have a link to where you purchased the new carpet?


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## bolle_ (Feb 17, 2009)

Nice work.. lockig forvard to see the end result..


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## C-Bass (Nov 23, 2008)

speedfreak28 said:


> great build, If you dont mind do you have a link to where you purchased the new carpet?


Auto Carpet for Car, Truck, Van - Automotive Replacement Carpets


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## stampede88 (Oct 5, 2013)

i was told to keep any signal wires on one side of the cab and power on the other just wondering if you heard different.


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## KFlex19 (Nov 13, 2016)

Is this it? I was looking so forward to the finished product.


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