# 2013 Subaru WRX hatchback SQ Daily Driver



## cpetersen (Dec 16, 2014)

Just started a 2013 Subaru WRX hatchback build so I figured I would start logging the build.

The plan for this build is to make a SQ daily driver stealth budget build. You can view my very first DIYMA thread, *SQ active front stage recommendation?*, to see the start of the process.

*The equipment list installed so far:*

*Head Unit*
- Pioneer AVH-X4700BS

Amp
- Precision Power P900.4 Phantom 900 watt 4-channel amplifier (tweeters/midbass & bridged subwoofer)

Speakers
- Stock (tweeters)
- Pioneer TS-A1682R 6.5" coaxials in the front doors (midbass)
- Modified Bazooka BTA8100 BT (subwoofer)

Wiring
- KnuKonceptz KCA 4 AWG amp installation kit
- 2x NVX XIX22 X-Series twisted interconnect cables
- NVX XWS1625 16 AWG EnvyFlex speaker wire

Other stuff
- Axxess ASWC-1 steering wheel control interface
- MicroBypass automatic video in motion interface bypass
- Scosche SU2027B/SU2027 double DIN installation kit
- HDE E336 rear backup camera
- Frost King duct insulation dampening material (hatchback door)

*Whats up next:*

- Axxess AX-SUBUSB USB adapter
- NVX SDVK4 dampening material (front doors)
- 2x Custom amp plates (under front seats)
- 2X NVX XFDBU2 2 Position fused distribution block (one for power and then other for ground)
- NVX XW8BL5 8 AWG EnvyFlex amp installation kit (into each amp)
- Precision Power P1000.1 Phantom 1000 watt monoblock amplifier (subwoofer)
- Run fronts active off Precision Power P900.4 Phantom amplifier 
- 2x Usher 9950-20 or SB Acoustics SB29RDC-C000-4 or SEAS Prestige 27TFFNC/G :shrug: (sail panel tweeter)
- 2x SB Acoustics SB17NRXC35-4 6.5" woofer (front door midbass)
- 2x Image Dynamics ID8 D4 or maybe some 10" woofers (subwoofer)
- Frost King duct insulation dampening material (rear doors & rest of hatchback area)


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Subscribed


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## ChrisB (Jul 3, 2008)

I miss my 2012 WRX


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## teldzc1 (Oct 9, 2009)

Great list! Just a heads up, those Usher Tweeters are large format. Not sure if you will be able to fit in you sail panels. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


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## cpetersen (Dec 16, 2014)

teldzc1 said:


> Great list! Just a heads up, those Usher Tweeters are large format. Not sure if you will be able to fit in you sail panels.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


Thanks for the heads up on the Usher tweeters. 

Decided to bail on the NVX kit, that you recommended earlier, since they raised the price to $399. Still planning on going with the SB Acoustic 6.5" and finding a good tweeter that will fit in the sail. Like a reasonable alternative to the ScanSpeak Illuminator D3004/6020-00.

Would be nice to find a set that has a passive x-over, so I can run them before getting a second amp. Maybe the JBL C660s (just don't know how they sound compared to raw drivers.)


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## cpetersen (Dec 16, 2014)

Added Frost King duct insulation shelf adhesive foil and foam to the spare tire well and taped down edges with 2" aluminum foil tape. I have used this duct insulation in a previous installation and it works pretty well. The price is right and it's light weight. 










It's very shiny. Considering spraying black rubberized paint over the foil and tape like I did in a previous install. It helps seal all the joints and adds a little extra deadening. Not sure I want to stink up the car.




























All OEM accessories parts fit back with no fitment issues. 

Considering fabricating a fiberglass subwoofer enclosure that fits on top of the spare tire.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

That's pretty nifty stuff right there. Are you planning to hide the amps and subs in a false floor enclosure? 

I took some measurements the other day and found you can get some pretty good volume on each side of the spare without those "foam" trays in there.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Subaru love, it's what we are here for lol....


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## cpetersen (Dec 16, 2014)

I am currently considering two options.


On top of spare tire like Roper215's 2015 WRX


On the hatchback side panel like Diyma Ninja's 2008 Subaru Outback Sport

Booth are outstanding.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

You know which one has my vote .

Anything you need help with let me know. I've installed about 8 systems in late model subarus.

I wouldn't go with an ID, check out sideways auto salon in your town, I'm buddies with Dave the owner. He can let you hear some hybrid subs which I prefer a lot more than any of the IDs I've owned.

Clarus is better but expensive, my gf has the imagine and it's a nasty little sub and about the same price point. 

Edit: didn't read first post in its entirety about amp locations.


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## cpetersen (Dec 16, 2014)

Good to know. I will check out sideways audio salon. The HAT Imagine does looks to be over 3x more expensive then the ID12D4V3.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

I'd is about 200, imagine 12 shouldn't be more than 350.

Percent wise it's significant, in terms of absolute dollars it's not that much.


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## cpetersen (Dec 16, 2014)

Image Dynamics ID12 D4 V.3 is currently $99. It is on sale.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Well you got me there. I still wouldn't buy it. I hated my IDQ. That is one hell of a price though. Just remember this....

Id subs have a larger mounting hole than any other sub for their respective size. If you build a box for one, you will be hard pressed to ever retrofit it to another 12 inch driver.


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## cpetersen (Dec 16, 2014)

Another good thing to know as the cost and effect to build a custom fiberglass box is substantial. Need to find an alternative that's around $200. May look at Daytons or Sundowns.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

cpetersen said:


> Another good thing to know as the cost and effect to build a custom fiberglass box is substantial. Need to find an alternative that's around $200. May look at Daytons or Sundowns.


After everything said and done you're looking at around 300 bucks or so for one enclosure. 

If you need to make a second it would only be about 100. Buy extra of the raw materials: fiberglass mat and body filler as they don't really have a shelf life. 

I buy all my fiberglass from us composites, I work for lowes so I buy most of my other raw materials from them.

Seriously though plan to buy double what you think you need so in 6 months when you decide to make a new and improved one, you don't get hit so hard in the wallet.

You will need a jigsaw, preferrably a table saw, and an orbital sander.

Black and decker makes decent entry level, they actually own dewalt.


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## cpetersen (Dec 16, 2014)

I've been looking at us composites e-glass to use it to make the top and bottom to save weight. The only MDF I am planning on using is for the speaker ring. Also thinking about using one of us composites carbon fiber sheets, since it's not that much more than fiberglass.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Don't use mdf if at all possible. I hate it. It's an awful product for rings. Plywood or hdpe. Mdf doesn't hold screws well, it's just glued together cardboard in my opinion.

I had to go to exhaustive lengths to make the mdf work for my boxes. I do not have a router, which sucks for me, and the source I use for rings uses mdf.

If you do use mdf use wood hardener and resin on the mdf afterwards. Just my .02


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## cpetersen (Dec 16, 2014)

Planning on installing t-nuts on the back side of the rings. You are correct, MDF is messy to work with. I am also considering having the rings made with aluminum and have them plasma cut by the same source that I want use for the amp plates.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Baller idea, If you can find it water jet leaves a beautiful edge. I almost did the same thing.

I used t nuts and installed them with gorilla glue. One fastener at a time to ensure the sub fit. Took like 4 days... Again why I hate mdf.

Why no pics of anything lately? Your build rate is about like mine 

I spent 4 hours playing cable dress up this weekend. Fml, I hate when I get ocd.


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## cpetersen (Dec 16, 2014)

I move pretty slow as well since I have multiple projects/hobbies in the works at the same time and only so much time and money. It will probably be months before I buy the front speakers and maybe a year before I replace the current subwoofer (it actually sounds pretty good after modifying it and running it off the PPI 990.4). Currently in the researching phase. 

I pulled the HU out this last weekend to install a Axxess AX-SUBUSB USB adapter, so I took a couple photos. Not to interesting:




















Going to Front King the rear doors next.


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## maggie-g (Aug 20, 2014)

t-nuts are terrible. I would recommend threaded inserts.


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## ChrisB (Jul 3, 2008)

maggie-g said:


> t-nuts are terrible. I would recommend threaded inserts.



I started using hurricane nuts instead. They work MUCH better!


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## cpetersen (Dec 16, 2014)

Roper215 said:


> You know which one has my vote .
> 
> Anything you need help with let me know. I've installed about 8 systems in late model subarus.
> 
> ...


I ran by Sideways Audio last week. They recommend running a set of HAT Imagine components up front and a HAT Imagine 10" in the hatchback. They also carry Zapcos and recommended running the sub with a ST-500DM.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

Did you speak to dave? Dude with the coy fish sti?

Anyway, dave and I agree on speakers he and I don't agree on amps. I've been unhappy with 6 zapco Amps. Keep your ppi class d's until you upgrade to an arc or jl class d in my opinion.

The imagine series is solid. The system you are looking at is almost exactly what my gf runs.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Dang sorry to hear about your previous bad luck with Zapco ^^^ I've run a few more than 6 now, and loved every one of them. Those PPI's are no joke though, very stout little powerhouses.

Can't go wrong with Arc or JL either. Very good options as well.

Those HAT Imagines are decent. Had the pleasure of hearing them recently, and an Imagine 10" in another install - pretty clean speakers.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

No biggie, I'm running an arc 1200.6 in about two days with a helix dsp.

I can't till Friday morning to start my install.

I prefer the Clarus personally but the cost for a set of imagines is real reasonable compared to other performers in that category IMHO


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Oh yeah that is going to be nice. 

The Clarus sub is definitely a nice piece. Haven't had the pleasure of hearing Clarus mids or tweets though. Just the Imagine and Legatia lines. 

To the OP: If there is a Morel dealer nearby, might want to check them out too. The Maximo is amazing for an entry level loudspeaker line. If the jump to Tempo is within budget, they are well worth it. And the Primo subs, absolutely fantastic. Haven't found any entry level subwoofers that come close to the Primo.


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## Roper215 (Oct 21, 2012)

I'm running clarus mid bass with l3v2 and a clarus 12. I may upgrade to the l3se, but tbd.

I agree that morel makes some swanky stuff, but I'm partial to HAT for the money and for the customer service which is hard to find especially in car audio.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Agreed. Have only heard excellent things about Hybrid's customer service.


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## cpetersen (Dec 16, 2014)

Amazon currently has the Morel Primo 10" for $175. That's in my ballpark. The HAT Imagine 10" is over $300.

Wow, the Maximos are also reasonably priced. How would they compare to the performance of the HAT Imagine or NVX/SB Acoustics sets?


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

The Maximo is quite nice actually. Very comparable to the Imagine from the few times I've heard them. The Imagine mid is a little stouter, but the Maximo tweeters are more laid back than the HATs (not a bad thing  ).

They both can soak up some power too. Maximo really comes to life with about 90-125 watts. 

I've used two Primo 10" subs in the past, and loved them both. Ported and sealed, they were wonderful.


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## cpetersen (Dec 16, 2014)

If the Maximo is comparable to the Imagine, I would definitely consider go with the Maximo at one third the price.

Now the question is, how does the Maximo compare with the NVX/SB Acoustics set?


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Is that the X-series from NVX? I'm not very familiar with them. Only seen the Arc Black speakers up close, and they were quite interesting. Very beefy motor structures.


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## Serieus (May 27, 2011)

haven't heard those nvx, or the maximos for that matter, but i have the hat imagines in my car and it's the set chithead has heard 

i had them in my old '98 civic running active off an 80prs and they sounded good with tweeters on the a-pillars, and i have them in my 2013 fit now running coaxial and passive. i like them better so far running coaxial, but of course i can't compare directly as everything in the system is different, down to the car, and i will say that i never spent much time tuning it in the civic due to time and not having air conditioning for the summer that i ran them 

running active, i think it's hard to go wrong with any of these sets since the downfalls of the imagines (and maximos, as i understand it) are their crossovers not attenuating tweeters well when tweeters are up high and especially on axis, so you'd probably get good results with any of them. i have it in my head that the sb acoustics/arc black/nvx x series are a step up from these sets, but i've not heard them so i can't say for sure. they did test well on the klippel though


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## cpetersen (Dec 16, 2014)

Decided to pull the trigger on the NVXs and another PP amp. 

Here are some build pictures on the amps installed on custom aluminium plates. A friend with a CNC plasma cutter cut them for me.

I installed the stand-offs and punched a couple holes in each plate to route the RCA cables.

Sorry in advance for the quality of the cell phone pictures.


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## cpetersen (Dec 16, 2014)

6.5 drivers installed in the front door.

Originally purchased some plastic speaker rings, that ended up being to small, so I cut the rings out on 3/4 MDF.


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## cpetersen (Dec 16, 2014)

Tweeters temporarily installed in the sail locations with some velcro. 

Purchased two new OEM sail panels which I am going to modify and install the tweeters in. 

Please provide feedback if you have any suggestion on the best angles to install the tweeters relative to the passengers.


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## cpetersen (Dec 16, 2014)

Still need to dial in the cross-over settings. Please advise if you have experience with these speakers. 

Speaker frequency responses:

Tweeter: 800 - 22000 Hz
6.5": 45 - 3500 Hz
8" Bazooka sub: 39-1,500 Hz

Here is what I currently have. Amp are set to full range, I think.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

I've got my XSPTW's at 1959hz Linkwitz high-pass at 24db slope. 
With the EQ cuts I've done it seems to work cleanly.

My NVX mids vary a good bit between sides as of course the off-axis responses yeild different results to match up their acoustic responses.. 1806 and 2535 hz low-pass. Believe it or not, that was how dramatically acoustically the two sides differ. Got to love tuning a 2-way. Same thing on their high-pass.. 75hz and 90hz. No kidding the two sides took that much work to line up in their measurements. But I was basically shooting on mating up with sub and tweeters at 80hz - 1959hz.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

chithead said:


> Is that the X-series from NVX? I'm not very familiar with them. Only seen the Arc Black speakers up close, and they were quite interesting. Very beefy motor structures.


Daniel, if you heard my car at the meet, you heard them.


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## cpetersen (Dec 16, 2014)

Babs said:


> I've got my XSPTW's at 1959hz Linkwitz high-pass at 24db slope.
> With the EQ cuts I've done it seems to work cleanly.
> 
> My NVX mids vary a good bit between sides as of course the off-axis responses yeild different results to match up their acoustic responses.. 1806 and 2535 hz low-pass. Believe it or not, that was how dramatically acoustically the two sides differ. Got to love tuning a 2-way. Same thing on their high-pass.. 75hz and 90hz. No kidding the two sides took that much work to line up in their measurements. But I was basically shooting on mating up with sub and tweeters at 80hz - 1959hz.


I do not have the ability to tune each side separately. How are you doing this?


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## cpetersen (Dec 16, 2014)

cpetersen said:


> Still need to dial in the cross-over settings. Please advise if you have experience with these speakers.
> 
> Speaker frequency responses:
> 
> Tweeter: 800 - 22000 Hz


Looking at my setting agian, I do not think I can x-over the tweeter with the receiver, may need to try to sort this out with the x-over in the amp.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

cpetersen said:


> I do not have the ability to tune each side separately. How are you doing this?



Helix DSP. Best piece of equipment in my entire setup. 


Sent from iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Which is why you'll see me in here crying over the lack of head units with optical output. Waiting with baited breath for the new Clarion to get debugged. 


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## cpetersen (Dec 16, 2014)

The tweeters tend to be bright and fatiguing and after 15 to 20 minutes I end up turning off the radio, which is not the desired condition of this system. 

I’ve turned the front amp gain down all the way down and have the highs dialed way down on the deck EQ, however the brightness persists. 

Has anyone else experienced this with these tweeters?

I had a local installer give it a listen and he said that it might help to install some passive crossovers. I found this surprising since it seems like the consensus is active is better (I realize that better is vague) then passive.

Thoughts?


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

cpetersen said:


> Still need to dial in the cross-over settings. Please advise if you have experience with these speakers.
> 
> Speaker frequency responses:
> 
> ...


That's entirely too low of a crossover point for the tweeters.


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