# HOW TO: Black textured finish



## mtnickel (Mar 15, 2005)

Hi guys, this won't be ULTRA detailed, but you can fill in the blanks.

This is a guide to finish any sort of box or panel or whatever with a nice black textured finish.
Results look like:


























Depending how much spray you use and the intervals between coats you can get different results.

This is a great method for those who aren't finishing experts.

1) Build box or plate or whatever you have...









2) If there is a step in any mating edges, use either a router flush trim bit or a belt sander to get everything relatively close.

3) Fill the nail holes, uneven sections, mating edges, etc with some sort of filler. The filler used is not really that significant. I use anything from mixable polyfilla, to spackle, to wood filler, to autobody filler (probably the best for it's hardness), etc etc.









4) Sand. As course grit as 120 is probably fine, you honestly won't see the scratch marks. I do 220 just to be safe though.

5) OPTIONAL: prime coat (probably necessary to use an actual primer if using latex top coat). Can use a primer or just a single coat of the paint you are going to use (if oil). After first coat do light sand with 220 to get any dust bits etc.

6) Paint: I prefer to use oil paint just because it's more durable and sticks to MDF without a prime. Brush on however you want, just keep it uniform. You could alternatively use spray paint, but mdf will suck up a lot of spray paint and the thick tough oil coating is nice. 

I just used a basic foam brush.
here i am applying:









I try to keep brush marks nice and straight as it's possible you can see them. Using a roller will not require this as it will usually be nice and smooth.

Coat all done:









7) Wait till paint sets up at least a little (4-5 minutes for latex, 10-15 minutes for oil)...this way the spray won't just soak in so to speak. It's usually good at staying on top though.

8) Spray box with this wonderful product:
Dupli-color truckbed liner. Available at walmart i believe (in automotive section), or Lowes i hear. Only like $7-8 I think,









The can in the top right corner...i couldn't find a good individual pic.

Spraying technique is somewhere between 12-16" away. Make sure to continually shake and assure the tip is clean. A wet/clogged tip will result in large droplets showing up (also does this when the can gets very low, so you might not be able to use the entire thing while keeping a uniform finish). I coat lightly, let sit for 30 seconds to 1 minute and then coat 1 more time lightly. Then i do a quick randomized feathering from like 2 ft. That should usually be enough. MORE is not better here. if you put on too much too soon, the beads will soak together, it will still look fine, but more of a leathery look instead of nice fine speckles.

and that is all you do for a rock hard finish that hides a fair bit of blemishes and looks pretty dang good. If you don't want to tackle carpeting your sub box, this is a great alternative.

Here's my recently finished box:
Pardon the dirty mid driver...better pics to follow when i assemble and clean the entire set.


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## mtnickel (Mar 15, 2005)

Another FYI,
I basic flared port can be made by routering the inside of the port with a roundover bit (as seen above). Just be sure to fill the gap between the pipe (abs or PVC is fine) with filler, and sand.


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## MuTT (Apr 4, 2007)

Very nice...thanks!


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## buchaja (Nov 10, 2007)

Nice work. Thanks for the post and pics.


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

best way to make a flared PVC port:

say your port is 3" PVC, where the ID is 3", and the OD is 3.5".

bore a hole exactly 2.75 inches in diameter centered where the port is to be (.75" smaller). with a 3/8th rabbet bit, buzz out 1/4-3/8inches from the backside of the baffle. this creates an inset 3.5 inches diameter. Glue your port in. NO filler is required as the fit is 100% perfect flush. woodglue is sufficient filler for a seamless look. Next, choose a roundover of appropriate diameter and set the roller to the depth of the PVC. its OK to router the pvc if that happens.

best way to machine a strong port


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

I also like filler primer so my MDF seams in the cabinet dissapear  bodyfiller probably works very well for this also! I typically do not design enclosures with removable baffles, though.


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## mtnickel (Mar 15, 2005)

Had the drivers been more expensive, i would probably take more time on the finish...but with a $9 tweeter and $9 mid, i can't be bothered to spend too long on them.

Mark


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## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

great write up......Now to save you DIYERs some cash.

Step 1
Go to HOmedepot.....maybe Lowes, but for sure HD.
Step 2
Go to the rack with the OOOOPS paint.
( this is paint that more than likely a woman picked out and decided that it was not the color of her favorite finger nail polish.) 
Step 3
I like using flat or even satin....find anythin color in this type and have it mixed to black.

Results
$20-$40 galon of paint for $5

I bought some flat black Ralph Lauren Flat Black for $5...not because it was cheap , but becaue my customers should have the very best.


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## mtnickel (Mar 15, 2005)

Good tip...just as you can usually get a full sheet of SLIGHTLY damaged MDF for like $5-$10 instead of the $25 that it usually is. Sometimes slightly warped, sometimes damaged corner, etc. Usually not a problem when ripping it into many smaller pieces (and covering with carpet sometimes too).

Mark



unpredictableacts said:


> great write up......Now to save you DIYERs some cash.
> 
> Step 1
> Go to HOmedepot.....maybe Lowes, but for sure HD.
> ...


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## MIAaron (May 10, 2005)

I just use duratex and follow their application directions. It's nice cuz it doesn't have any VOC's. I did a box in our laundry room during the winter and there were no issues with smell.

As far as small ports go I use scrap wood to find the perfect size hole for a press fit, cut my ports 1/4" longer than I need, and stick the 1/4" through hole, roundover with 1/2" or 3/4" radius. Done.

Edit:
Link for duratex
http://www.acrytech.com/store.asp?pid=14119


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## Superstretch18 (Dec 10, 2007)

Great idea. Thank you!


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## rekd0514 (Sep 24, 2006)

That has always been a great finish for cheap. Your cabinets look awesome.


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## mooch91 (Apr 6, 2008)

Any comments on the durability of the Dupli-Color finish? Does it form a hard shell like the professionally sprayed bedliner material? Does it chip?

I am completing an amp rack for my truck that I have contemplated finishing in the same way.

My other option is to have it Line-X'ed. I know the Line-X would hold up well, but I'm also sure that it will be pricey ($50-60 for the panel).

Thanks in advance.


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## braves6117 (Feb 13, 2008)

From my experience, its not a "hard shell" like you think of in a truck bed. It actually has a nicer finish then you think, and is as thick as you make it. The durability will be in direct proportion to how much you use. 

I have noticed too that its better to let each layer dry well before applying more, otherwise, you could get some soggy spots that dry differently. Just a little patience and some work and it turns out well.

On the plus, even if you do it, worst of worst is then you carpet over it


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## chuyler1 (Apr 10, 2006)

Great looking speakers!


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## WrenchGuy (Jun 10, 2007)

3M Rocker Panel spray also works too. Follow can and finish with a color.


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## cheesehead (Mar 20, 2007)

Nice job!

There are quite a few different textured paints on the market now. I have used some different ones. I have found the bedliner spray to be the most scratch resistant.


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## Thumper26 (Sep 23, 2005)

this reminds me, i used this technique on the box i did for my friend's tacoma. he didn't worry about sanding edges and all that, but the texture from misting the bedliner was awesome. great job!


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## mooch91 (Apr 6, 2008)

I will give a shot to the bedliner spray (using the attached technique to hit the MDF with a basecoat of primer/paint first) based on the durability that has been reported and report back on how it works out.

Keep an eye here and on my thread in the install gallery (2007 F-350 crew cab).

Thanks.


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## mooch91 (Apr 6, 2008)

Completed using the bedliner spray for an amp rack for my truck. The jury is still out on how it came out.

Used the Plastikote version of the spray, available from Walmart.

So far, the texture is very abrasive. Almost as if the bedliner has some sand in it. Feels a little like it was coated with the anti-skid coatings found on some stair treads.

It is definitely even and hid a number of blemishes on the panel.

Used one can on the front and one can on the back.

The amp rack cut to shape, made of 1/2" MDF:









Here's a pic of the panel painted (rolled) with Rustoleum flat black enamel. Since the enamel lifted the fibers of the MDF, a light sanding (100 grit) was required:









Sprayed around the holes with some flat black enamel to cover everything before applying the bedliner:









Three coats, last one dusted from about 30" away:









Again, I'd like to compare the Duplicolor product to the Plastikote product to see its level of abrasiveness. I'm going to hit the surface of the panel with a stiff brush to try to knock down some of the abrasiveness before I install it and wire up the amps.


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