# '10 Tundra CrewMax



## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

I've done a lot of equipment swapping, and am reaching the point of satisfaction. I will begin an amp swap and new sub box build this weekend. So, I figured now would be a good time to post a build log.

*Equipment List:
Factory HU w/Ipad 2 via Bluetooth
Audison Bit Ten D
Zuki Eleets Hybrid 5-Channel
Fountek FR-88EX
Seas CA18RNX
JL Audio 8W3V3*

My goal is for the truck to appear as factory stock as possible for security reasons. To keep everything stealth, I will use factory door and dash locations for the front stage. The amp, processor, and sub will be located behind the rear seat. The DRC from the Bit Ten D will be located in an existing overhead compartment which closes. The only alteration that won't appear stock is an iPad dock will be fabricated onto the face of the factory HU. I plan on this blending in so that it is not easily detected.

I have recently upgraded from a JL Audio XD700/5 directly off of the Factory HU to the JL Audio HD900/5 with the Bit Ten D. I finally got my hands on a Zuki Eleets so I'll be upgrading amps once again. I'll post some pictures of the previous amp installations for reference.

*The first order of business is installing some Raammat and Ensolite on the backwall of the cab.*


































*The Seas CA18RNX drivers use 1-inch thick HDPE baffles with a layer of Ensolite on them installed in the factory 6x9 openinngs. The doors are treated with Raammat and Ensolite.*


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## KyleMDunn (Jan 27, 2009)

Excellent start - still looking forward to your JL to Zuki comparison!


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

The previous amp installs included having a XD700/5 under the front passenger floorboard carpeting. I carved out some factor styrofoam and wired the amp directly off of the factory HU's front outputs.

*Here is where it was located. *

















With no processing other than the amps crossover, this setup already sounded 1000 times better than factory. The next upgrade was to add the Bit Ten D. Before I installed it, I decided to upgrade to the HD900/5, as the midbass and subs were lacking a little in output.


*I decided to move the electronics to the back of the cab to provide easier access for tuning. So I built an amp rack to go between the 8W3V3's.*









I am so impressed with the Bit Ten. The De-EQ function alone made the factory HU sound as good a the better aftermarket HU's I've owned.


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

KyleMDunn said:


> Excellent start - still looking forward to your JL to Zuki comparison!


I just received the "Fragibility" on Tuesday afternoon and got to view the contents last night. Stay thirsty my friend, it's coming.

*Teaser pic.*


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

To keep the interior stealth, I'm running tweeterless with wideband 3's in the factory dash locations. The FR-88EX's have a natural sound to them. They sound better than any of the tweeters that I have tried firing up at the windshield from hese locations.


*The Fountek FR-88EX here in the dash.*





























I mounted the Bit Ten's DRC in a factory overhead compartment. This gives easy access to it, but the compartment closes to conceal any hints of aftermarket gear.


*Here is the Audison DRC.*


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

Looks great. I have the same truck.. Have you considered buying the Limited sail panels from the dealer and putting the tweeters there?


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

I like the amp rack enclosure combo, looks clean.


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

Made a lot of progress on subwoofer and amp rack.



























































*I have a lot of room to work with in the Crewmax.*


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

This is as far as i made it today. I need to mount the Bit Ten D, Zuki 5-channel, and power distribution block. BTW - the speaker wiring is all Ixos 11 gauge and the signal to the Bit Ten comes by way of Scosche 9-conductor speed wire.


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

Jumbo Jet said:


> Looks great. I have the same truck.. Have you considered buying the Limited sail panels from the dealer and putting the tweeters there?


Yes. I've considered it. It would definitely go along with the 100% stealth-look goal. I'm a little concerned about that location as it really increases PLD's. I may have to compromise on the stealth layout and some pods on the pillars or dash. We'll see.




audiovibe said:


> I like the amp rack enclosure combo, looks clean.


That was the old setup. Check out some of the work on the new rack enclosure combo. Not finished yet, but I promise it won't dissapoint.


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## Devourment (Jan 23, 2010)

Looking real good, man!


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

The 8W3V3 has never sounded like this before. I have used WinISD in the past, but have always modified the recommended design to fit my install. I decided this time to let the program dictate final volume, port, etc. WOW! SOoo much better than the JL recommended designs. But also 3-times as big.


*Here's some updated photos of the amp rack build.*





























Later, I'll post some photos of the rack in the truck and some wiring shots as well.


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## m0sdef (Nov 16, 2010)

Looks good so far. I enjoy seeing tundra builds as it helps me with mine.


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

Lots of updates....

Amp - Zuki Hybrid 5-Channel replaced by JL HD900/5 (Size Matters! The Zuki sounded better to me, but the HD is no slouch!)
Midbass - Seas CA18RNX replaced by Hybrid L8.
Subwoofer - JL8W3V3 replaced by Alpine SWR-T12.

I have the SWR-T12 in a 0.7 cuft sealed box and it sounds really good. I am considering trying what Velozity and PJC have done in the passenger footwell.

Here's the L8's. It took double-stacked 3/4-inch spacers to keep the motors out of the way of the window.


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## takeabao (Jul 18, 2005)

Looks great!!!

Absolutely awesome that you got the L8's to fit in your doors!


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## _Nomad_ (Dec 11, 2012)

NOICE!


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## Buckyibf (May 23, 2012)

Looks really good Im still waiting to get a chance to listen to this Tundra!!!!


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## Jon225 (Mar 21, 2011)

Looks great. Did you purchase or make the door baffles?


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

Jon225 said:


> Looks great. Did you purchase or make the door baffles?


The white ones that had the Seas in them were purchased from tacotunes. I used those to make my own out of MDF when I upgraded to the L8's.


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## takeabao (Jul 18, 2005)

metanium said:


> The white ones that had the Seas in them were purchased from tacotunes. I used those to make my own out of MDF when I upgraded to the L8's.


Curious... how did you manage to get your door panel back on... ??!

I have 1-1/4" worth of spacers and I can hardly fit most 7" mids.


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

takeabao said:


> Curious... how did you manage to get your door panel back on... ??!
> 
> I have 1-1/4" worth of spacers and I can hardly fit most 7" mids.


I did have to shave the inside of the door panel some with a dremel tool, particularly the flange on the inside of the factory speaker grill. Even with that my panels bulge out because of the tabs on the spacers. For some reason the drivers door doesn't have as much of a bulge as the passenger door. I do plan to rebuild my spacers to see if I can reduce or eliminate the bulge all together.

"Is that an 8-inch woofer in your door, or are you happy to see me?"

BTW, nice deadening. Did you cover the holes in the door with anything before applying the deadener mat?


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## takeabao (Jul 18, 2005)

metanium said:


> I did have to shave the inside of the door panel some with a dremel tool, particularly the flange on the inside of the factory speaker grill. Even with that my panels bulge out because of the tabs on the spacers. For some reason the drivers door doesn't have as much of a bulge as the passenger door. I do plan to rebuild my spacers to see if I can reduce or eliminate the bulge all together.
> 
> "Is that an 8-inch woofer in your door, or are you happy to see me?"
> 
> BTW, nice deadening. Did you cover the holes in the door with anything before applying the deadener mat?


Very cool!

I'm curious to see how you get it to work. From what I understand, your door panel is still fully attached, right? (using those surprisingly sturdy white pressure clips) If so, then that's all that matters!  (A little bulge wouldn't bother me too much if I could cram Hybrid L8's , or something like an RS225 in my doors).

And I did not cover the holes with anything beyond that stock clear plastic (which is actually sealed pretty well on the edges from the factory). I applied the sound-deadener right over that.


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

Yes, the factory panels are fully attached. Every once in a while the one of the white clips will pop out of its hole, due to the spacer pressing against the back.

I just got a pair of mdf ring cut to fit the L8's inside and outside diameters perfectly. I plan on mounting these on just one of the current spacers. My hope is that without the mounting tabs protruding so far in front, it will reduce the bulge. I just have to make sure the back of the factory door panel doesn't interfere with the L8's cone movement.


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