# bit one owners



## flipnap (Feb 14, 2011)

.. i have some quick questions. 

1. have you been using the HU for volume and if so does it still activate the dynamic EQ function?

2. At this level of tuning, have you felt at a loss for not having any parametric functions.

3. How are you delaying your powerup so as to coincide with the rest of the system (i hear it takes almost ten seconds to boot up)

4. have you ever had it 'crash' on you while driving and if so what are the results (like speakers screeching, etc)

Thanks so much, i really am considering this unit because im not sure i can wait for the 3sixty.3, which would be my first choice, and i need to get busy tuning this system.


----------



## monkeyboy (Jun 12, 2007)

flipnap said:


> .. i have some quick questions.
> 
> 1. have you been using the HU for volume and if so does it still activate the dynamic EQ function?
> 
> ...


1. Yes, but I am not using the auto EQ. I do think I could get rid of a little hiss I had if I used the BitOne, but I hate the idea of having multiple controls.

2. No

3. Not doing it. I have no pops letting the BitOne do it's thing. My old one had pops, but Audison fixed it

4. Nope.


----------



## matthewo (Jan 31, 2008)

1) yes i use the head unit volume, no i dont use the dynamic eq

3) dont need to delay at all it works with no turn on pop

4) nope 2 years never crashed.


----------



## slade1274 (Mar 25, 2008)

You must use the DRC for volume control if you wish to use the Dynamic EQ.

As far as power up- the B1 needs to be the first link in the chain. The remote wire from the ignition/HU goes to one of the 3 available remote-in spots on the B1 and then the single out goes to the first amp and daisy chains from there. I would say 10 sec startup is a bit of an exaggeration....


----------



## flipnap (Feb 14, 2011)

wow , thanks for the feedback guys. I really appreciate it. On a side note im surprised you guys arent using the dynamic eq, i'd have thought that would be of some real use. (my cars cabin eats up the high end on lower volumes).

anyway, I have another quick question.

Is it possible to set individual EQ channels, then 'group' them in their respective settings and move them as a whole (example: I set 1k on left at -3db and the right is on 0, then i want to adjust both globally but keep them relative to each other.) ive been playing in the demo software and dont see this available. Not a deal breaker but wondering if i mightve missed something.

thanks again!


----------



## St. Dark (Mar 19, 2008)

No, it is NOT possible to link channels and tune them as a group, either EQ or time. Actually something I've expressed my desire to see changed.

You CAN EQ a given L - R pair of channels simultaneously, but NOT after having done them independently (it will make one of them match the other when you link them). 

Dynamic EQ does indeed look really neat, but you do have to be willing to use the DRC volume. It does not function if you use the headunit volume.


----------



## flipnap (Feb 14, 2011)

yeah thats what i thought. Well, thats the beauty of firmware updates right? maybe in the future they can write that in. as far as dynamic eq.. its something id gladly use the drc for. to be able to fully customize an eq bracket for low levels is awesome.

so, now another question for the dynamic EQ users; Is it a smooth transition from one level to the other? and is there a lot of weird phase shifting going on while dialing it up and down, because your basically compositing your dynamic EQ on TOP of all your existing curves right?.. sounds like it could cause some strange issues.

anyway, very interesting stuff indeed..


----------



## slade1274 (Mar 25, 2008)

I wouldn't think there would be any phasing issues as the TA remains the same; you are basically dealing with level magnitude of a specific frequency resultant in larger peaks, valleys- not shifting the peaks/valleys. The software does the interpolation for the curves as you set a low level and high level EQ and let the B1 extrapolate between them.


----------



## flipnap (Feb 14, 2011)

hey, i have a question for you guys. the bit one came in and im going to pick it up tomorrow. Is there a clear marking on the box or unit itself to signify that it is the newest model? what should i look for?

thanks in advance!
john


----------



## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

Bitone.1 is the latest. FW 1.50 IIRC. 

Someone said there's a newer fw released a month or so ago, but I haven't upgraded just yet. Still not sure what the upgrade is.


----------



## flipnap (Feb 14, 2011)

awesome! thanks so much. now would that be printed on the box or on the unit?. i need to do a physical inspection to make sure. im hoping it would be on the serial number or something right?

thanks as always


----------



## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

should be on both.


----------



## flipnap (Feb 14, 2011)

muchas gracias!!


----------



## flipnap (Feb 14, 2011)

instead of creating a new thread on this, im just piggybacking on this one.

So new bit one is in my hands. question. Since this thing is going to sum all the channels on input and im going to control everything from the bit one anyway, shouldnt i/couldnt i only run _only_ two stereo channels into this thing? or am i missing something. what benefit would there be for me to run all 6 channels from an alpine cd117 into the bit one.

as always thanks for your help


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

bikinpunk said:


> Bitone.1 is the latest. FW 1.50 IIRC.
> 
> Someone said there's a newer fw released a month or so ago, but I haven't upgraded just yet. Still not sure what the upgrade is.


Erin, there is no new firmware upgrade. The current version, 1.5.1, is identical functionally to 1.5.0. I thought that 1.5.1 was an upgraded version and started uploading it, only to "brick" my Bit One in the process and then find out after the fact that there is no difference between the two. So, I have been without tunes for a month now awaiting a replacement.


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

flipnap said:


> awesome! thanks so much. now would that be printed on the box or on the unit?. i need to do a physical inspection to make sure. im hoping it would be on the serial number or something right?
> 
> thanks as always


If you have the most current version, on the outside of the box is printed "Bit One.1"


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

flipnap said:


> instead of creating a new thread on this, im just piggybacking on this one.
> 
> So new bit one is in my hands. question. Since this thing is going to sum all the channels on input and im going to control everything from the bit one anyway, shouldnt i/couldnt i only run _only_ two stereo channels into this thing? or am i missing something. what benefit would there be for me to run all 6 channels from an alpine cd117 into the bit one.
> 
> as always thanks for your help


You only need to use 2 of the analog inputs to the Bit One. If that Alpine HU has a digital output, I strongly recommend that you use the appropriate digital input of the Bit One as well.


----------



## slade1274 (Mar 25, 2008)

flipnap said:


> instead of creating a new thread on this, im just piggybacking on this one.
> 
> So new bit one is in my hands. question. Since this thing is going to sum all the channels on input and im going to control everything from the bit one anyway, shouldnt i/couldnt i only run _only_ two stereo channels into this thing? or am i missing something. what benefit would there be for me to run all 6 channels from an alpine cd117 into the bit one.
> 
> as always thanks for your help





Buzzman said:


> You only need to use 2 of the analog inputs to the Bit One. If that Alpine HU has a digital output, I strongly recommend that you use the appropriate digital input of the Bit One as well.


Correct for the particular head unit in question, but to expand for others that may need more info: The summing capability is there for stock HU integration and/or grabbing a signal after the factory amplifier in order to sum the various channels. It also "De-EQs" any factory processing so you can effectively start from scratch with the new drivers..... not used for flat full range signals from aftermarket heads.


----------



## Ludemandan (Jul 13, 2005)

I find the lack of PEQ to be really annoying actually. Try to get a smooth curve adjustment by moving multiple sliders; it's impossible. Due to the fixed Q you can only get something with spikes at each individual band.


----------



## Jboogie (Mar 13, 2007)

Anyone know if it makes a diff what load the BitOne needs? The spkrs i replaced in my car were 2ohm. we are having a problem and someone suggested that i put some resistors in line to change the load...


----------



## Ludemandan (Jul 13, 2005)

Jboogie said:


> Anyone know if it makes a diff what load the BitOne needs? The spkrs i replaced in my car were 2ohm. we are having a problem and someone suggested that i put some resistors in line to change the load...


It is not connected to speakers.


----------



## Jboogie (Mar 13, 2007)

Ludemandan said:


> It is not connected to speakers.


I really hope you were "trying" to be funny... (p.s. u weren't successful..)


----------



## Ludemandan (Jul 13, 2005)

I don't understand your confusion. You asked if speaker impedance makes a difference. The BitOne outputs to an amp that has an input impedance in the thousands of ohms, and the amp drives the speakers. I don't see why the speaker impedance would matter to the processor.


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

Ludemandan said:


> I don't understand your confusion. You asked if speaker impedance makes a difference. The BitOne outputs to an amp that has an input impedance in the thousands of ohms, and the amp drives the speakers. I don't see why the speaker impedance would matter to the processor.



+1 

Even if you were using your stock headunit....the headunit doesnt dictate what ohms your speakers run at...your speakers dictate that. 

Maybe you have an MS-8? which actually can run speakers directly from itself?


----------



## TexZen (Jul 4, 2010)

Jboogie said:


> Anyone know if it makes a diff what load the BitOne needs? The spkrs i replaced in my car were 2ohm. we are having a problem and someone suggested that i put some resistors in line to change the load...


It is entirely possible that I missed something, but I am not clear on what the impedance of your speakers has to do w/the tuning or setup of the/a BitOne. That would be more of a function of what your amplifiers are capable of handling/driving. As far as I know, the BitOne can handle pre-amp & high level inputs, summing them for clean & consistent (4v) output to your amp(s).

My experience with the BitOne (other than what i have read & seen online) is negligable, but I have more than a passing bit of car & home A/V knowledge & would be more than happy to lend a helping hand in config/tuning etc...


----------



## ReticulatingPigeonElf (Sep 22, 2010)

Jboogie said:


> Anyone know if it makes a diff what load the BitOne needs? The spkrs i replaced in my car were 2ohm. we are having a problem and someone suggested that i put some resistors in line to change the load...


Perhaps you've confused those high-level inputs with speaker outputs?


----------



## Jboogie (Mar 13, 2007)

I was asking if anyone knows *if* it makes a diff what load the bitone sees. The answer could be a yes or no.

I was told that adding a resistor to the pos of the spkr inputs could fix the problem. If i remember correctly.. Adding a resistor changes the load. 

The problem is.. When the car is running, the stereo will play fine for a few minutes then get fuzzy then eventually fade out. The system doesnt turn off. If you rev the gas it will come back. I was told to add a 4 or 8 ohm resistor to the spkr inputs. 

I thought it sounded strange. so i asked the question.


----------



## Ludemandan (Jul 13, 2005)

Sounds like a problem with the battery or charging system. The BitOne never sees the speaker load.


----------



## Jboogie (Mar 13, 2007)

Sorry about the earlier comment Ludemandan. After i re read what i typed it did sound kinda goofy. 

The original battery was tested and checked out good. i swapped it out anyway and the prob is still there. The charging system has been checked out also (load tested) and is working fine. 

The HU and amp have been tested and are working fine. 

all grounds are good.


----------



## miztahsparklez (Jan 11, 2006)

Buzzman said:


> Erin, there is no new firmware upgrade. The current version, 1.5.1, is identical functionally to 1.5.0. I thought that 1.5.1 was an upgraded version and started uploading it, only to "brick" my Bit One in the process and then find out after the fact that there is no difference between the two. So, I have been without tunes for a month now awaiting a replacement.


Crap. I wish i would have read your post sooner... Mine is at the update phase and its not moving!


----------



## Ludemandan (Jul 13, 2005)

Well that's just great. Audison's software is already pretty bad, IMO. A non-upgrade that turns it into a paperweight is the last thing we need!


----------



## miztahsparklez (Jan 11, 2006)

Seriously.. i should have just left it at 1.5... now i cant even install it in the car.


----------



## flipnap (Feb 14, 2011)

man!! this 1.5.1 thing sounds like a nightmare. dont they test these things out before release? sorry about your troubles guys, im fortunate to have read this before i went and did the same. really sorry to hear it.


----------



## Zrowcool (Mar 18, 2011)

anyone have the dimensions of the remote? I'm interested in buying and have ideas to install the remote in a certain spot but havent been able to find outside dimensions of the remote anywhere.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## matthewo (Jan 31, 2008)

Jboogie said:


> Sorry about the earlier comment Ludemandan. After i re read what i typed it did sound kinda goofy.
> 
> The original battery was tested and checked out good. i swapped it out anyway and the prob is still there. The charging system has been checked out also (load tested) and is working fine.
> 
> ...


Strange I ran the stock g8 hesdunit and a bitone for over a year and never had the problem you are. are you using the auto sense turn or a real remote wire? Make sure all power and speaker level connections are good. The bitone had no problem with headunits made for 2 ohm speakers, once you do the setup you match the levels


----------



## Jboogie (Mar 13, 2007)

Im using a remote wire for turn on. I think im just gonna pull it out and see about send it in to have it checked out. Its driving me crazy. 

I shoulda never sold my DQL8.


----------



## flipnap (Feb 14, 2011)

*Few more questions*

hey guys, few more:

1. i have an imprint module, id like to leave it hooked up (without the multeq function) so i can use the PEQ functions AFTER i calibrate and tune the bitone. Will this adversely affect the Bitone? It would be changing the EQ on the line inputs basically. i really just want to use the 5 band PEQ for the final 'flavor' stage after i carve out the frequencies i need form the bit one. hope that makes sense

2. i have the alpine bt400 bluetooth unit. i never thought about if i use bitones TA if it will mess with the BTunit or not. i know it (bt400) has echo correction and stuff and not sure how dependent on a clean run with the HU it is. again, hope that makes sense.

Thanks so much guys!

edit.. oh one more. i was wondering 

3. id like to go active this round but i have a jlhd9500/5. so id basically have to run another 2 channel amp just for the tweeters. i have polk sr6500 and im wondering if its not worth the effort, they already sound fantastic with their passives.


----------



## flipnap (Feb 14, 2011)

*got it installed! oh MAN!!!*

All i can say is that little black box is magic! all i did was set levels and initial xovers and it sounds like a dream. i cannot believe it. I had a lot of layering and localization before and everything has smoothed out. Ive never heard anything like it. Im utterly amazed.

And funny story, the drc looked crazy with spots all over it and i could hardly read it and was ready to return the drc and realized i had my polarized sunglasses on. ha ha!! 

Okay, so onto a few questions:

*1.* The EQ settings for the master input are grayed out. anyone know why?

*2.* Anyone have luck with ipad or ipod bypassing the internal DAC and going straight into the bitone? i know it can be done with the camera kit but that goes to USB, not sure what to do from there.

So thats it! Oh and i mounted the DRC onto an L bracket with velcro and attached it to my armrest, sort of like how an e brake would be positioned. So when i drive with my arm on the rest, my fingers are literally right on the rotary control, which is awesome. I can just 'un velcro' it off and hide it in the armrest at night. AND the dynamic EQ is AMAZING!! i turned the unit to where it was barely audible and it sounds so clean and rich. those of you NOT using the dynamic EQ are really missing out.

so okay thats it, thanks for the help. im in love with this thing. Best purchase i EVER made 

john
p.s. really sorry again to those that did the 5.0.1. update and bricked out the units. that was a pretty rough story


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

*Re: got it installed! oh MAN!!!*



flipnap said:


> All i can say is that little black box is magic! all i did was set levels and initial xovers and it sounds like a dream. i cannot believe it. I had a lot of layering and localization before and everything has smoothed out. Ive never heard anything like it. Im utterly amazed.
> 
> And funny story, the drc looked crazy with spots all over it and i could hardly read it and was ready to return the drc and realized i had my polarized sunglasses on. ha ha!!
> 
> ...



for your questin #2...yes it has been done

YouTube - iPad in Car, Pt. 2, First Ever, SoundMan Car Audio

Yuo can also watch the part 3 and 4 to get some ideas too.


----------



## Rockford (Aug 10, 2010)

This was a very helpful discussion for me as well. I have a Bit One running Audison VOCE drivers and JL Audio W6 subs. My question is regarding time alignment. Since the subs are in the trunk and the farthest speakers from my ears, wouldnt I leave the time alignment setting at 0 meaning no time alignment ? Or, do I measure the distance from my ears to the subs and enter that distanc into the Bit One ? I am a little confused as I would think that you dont want to delay the subs at all. I know there is an expert out there that can answer this


----------



## flipnap (Feb 14, 2011)

i havent ever delayed my subs. i left the bit one at zero for delay and it sounds great.


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

*Re: got it installed! oh MAN!!!*



flipnap said:


> . . .
> 
> *1.* The EQ settings for the master input are grayed out. anyone know why?
> 
> (


John, are you referring to the graph? That is likely due to your having summed the "EQ" and "Xover" display. Look at the boxes under the "Display Settings" header. If "Sum" is blue, simply click on the box and the EQ and Xover settings will no longer be summed on the screen. If you want to see the EQ settings on the graph, the box next to "EQ" must be activated by clicking on it and turning it green. Same with the "Xover" setting, which is red when activated.


----------



## flipnap (Feb 14, 2011)

hey buzz.. im talkin about the actual input settings screen, not the dsp section. i dont think it actually can be eq'd. this part. see how theres no EQ controls at all for the master


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

flipnap said:


> hey buzz.. im talkin about the actual input settings screen, not the dsp section. i dont think it actually can be eq'd. this part. see how theres no EQ controls at all for the master


You can't do any actual EQing on that page. That screen is supposed to show whatever EQ adjustments you have input on the DSP Settings page for a particular input. Check your DSP page and make sure the "EQ Off" light next to the sliders has not been activated. If it's red, it's been activated and the EQ function is actually off, even though any settings you have input are showing in the DSP graph. If the EQ Off hasn't been activated, you should see all your EQ adjustments on the Ext. Source EQ page.


----------



## St. Dark (Mar 19, 2008)

The Ext Source EQ page is just that - to EQ any external sources to match the main source, if for whatever reason they have a different frequency response (example would be running any line source into Aux 1 on a system in say, a Benz with multiple, summed speaker level inputs; as the counter EQ part of BitOne/CleanSweep/Imprint/whatever often doesn't FULLY flatten out the signal, just makes it a LOT flatter than it was).
So, the Master input is the reference, and therefore unalterable, while any other input will each have a global EQ setting so that you can, uh, equalize or match that specific source to the Master.


----------



## flipnap (Feb 14, 2011)

got it.. makes sense.. as always, thanks much. 

working on getting bitone software running on the ipad in the meantime.. mucho cool with lots of drool.


----------



## dai bando (May 21, 2011)

Hi. It seems most of you have set up the Bitone yourselves–through software on a PC, or Mac running Windows XP/7 and a cat5 cable. I'm interested in the Bitone. But have a question or two or three: I currently have a DRZ9255 HU, VRX300.4, VRX500, morel OV6's up front, morel 6x9s rear and Adire brahma 12 sub. It's labor intensive to tweak the HU, but results are pleasing, and I have no options for an ipod/iphone. Would you say; I would benefit from adding the bitone? Do any of you have a pic of your install? Thanks in advance!


----------



## flipnap (Feb 14, 2011)

Dai, the bit one only uses a USB to connect to the laptop. You would benefit by having extra aux inputs from the bit one. I'm not familiar with that hu, but if you are doing your x-overs and timing from there then all the bit one will do is give you eq. There is no peq on the bit one either, only geq. For what it's worth I love mine. Even with a flat curve it sounds amazing.

Don't forget the alpine h 800 and the RF360.3 are literally right around the corner, so check into those as well..


----------



## dai bando (May 21, 2011)

Thanks! I have had the RF360.1 and 2, and had issues with the QC on one, and noise on the other; sorry to say. I'm reading thru the manual and see what seems to be a 'gratifying' piece of gear. I'm leaning towards the Bitone, but the DEX P99rs has some of my attention, too.


----------



## flipnap (Feb 14, 2011)

Yeah,of all the gear I've ever purchased the bit one is the most satisfying. I went the alpineh100 route but was terrible disappointed with the results, and the lack of being able to fine tune them. I have since become a strong opponent to auto tune. For what it's worth, I kept the h100 hooked up and I use it for time alignment and the peq for fine tuning. 

What I really enjoy the most with the b1 is the ability to mute each channel while I'm tuning. It really lends itself to experimentation. I also found some polarity issues with one of my channels that would've been a btch to go in and fix but I just hit the button and voila, it's done. It feels like a really solid piece of gear and besides the fatally horrible decision to release firmware that bricks the unit, I've had no issues with the software.

Plus it just sounds so damn good I'm besides myself

Good luck.


----------



## palldat (Feb 6, 2011)

I am having an issue where the DRC volume will not work. I am able to store changes and update the unit but when I try to use the volume nothing happens. My source is an IPad2 and it is connected via RCA to the AUX1 input (Set it up on MASTER then switched RCA's). The Bit1 is connected to 2 JL Audio amps (Slash 1,000 and 400/4). The volume level cannot be controlled from DRC or PC when connected.

HELP!!!!!!

P.S. I emailed Audison and they have not responded in a WEEK.


----------



## flipnap (Feb 14, 2011)

does it work with the ipad disconnected?


----------



## [email protected] (Nov 7, 2010)

palldat, have you disconnected power from the bitone and then started it up again?

Very strange you don't have volume control with the PC. Do you hear anything?

I have mine using an analog in and a digital in, I switch it all the time with no problems..


----------



## palldat (Feb 6, 2011)

OK, I can control volume from the PC only from the output screen. Not from DRC. Even reset the unit and unplugged everything thinking that we missed a step in set-up.

I get audio the level is just too loud with ipad2. with an ipod I can control volume from ipod but not DRC.


----------



## gu9cci (Mar 28, 2011)

Palldat i have the same problem before and go crazy!!
This is your solution to fix.its basically running the setup again and pay atention when selecting speakers for ac link.Do not mark them if is on the top say ac link.

Probably during the Confi guration Wizard some (or all) “Set AC-LINK
provided amplifi er” fl ags have been selected on the outputs. By selecting
them, the volume on the Bit One analog outputs always stays at 0dB
(maximum volume level in output) since the volume adjustment is entrusted
to the amplifi ers equipped with AC-LINK that the software, once
the fl ag is selected, considers as connected to the Bit One output.
To correctly restore the control of the Pre-Out output levels you have
to run again the Confi guration Wizard procedure making sure that the
“Set AC-LINK provided amplifi er” fl ags are not selected


----------



## palldat (Feb 6, 2011)

@gu9cci , that was the problem. Thanks for saving the day.


----------



## gu9cci (Mar 28, 2011)

Glad i can help.I almost throw thru the window my bitone when i was having same issue.


----------



## gu9cci (Mar 28, 2011)

Anyone feeding the bitone thru optical?I do and have hiss as hell.


----------



## BigRed (Aug 12, 2007)

H
Pm buzzman. He has used the bit1 exclusively like this


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

gu9cci, I saw that Big Red suggested you PM me. But, I have never had hiss using an optical connection. What HU are you using?


----------



## gu9cci (Mar 28, 2011)

I using denon dct-100.I have also pop in left speaker when ejecting cd or turning of dcr.


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

gu9cci said:


> I using denon dct-100.I have also pop in left speaker when ejecting cd or turning of dcr.


And, you have these pops only when you use the optical connection, not when you use the master analog connection?


----------



## gu9cci (Mar 28, 2011)

Only with optical.besize optical I use aux1 for mp3 and no pops.when I try master thru analog rca it is ok


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

gu9cci said:


> Only with optical.besize optical I use aux1 for mp3 and no pops.when I try master thru analog rca it is ok


It appears that you might be having a digital interface problem between your HU and the Bit One. The issue is headunit specific. I had clicks and pops when pausing or skipping tracks when I used the Clarion DRZ9255. But, once music began playing, no problems. I had no such issues when I changed to the Eclipse 55090. You will need to get one of these to try out: 

http://audison.tchernovaudio.com/goods/pdf/ST_Audison_SFC_eng.pdf


----------



## cobb2819 (Jan 13, 2011)

Wasn't the popping and noise on the optical input an issue with the early bitone processors??


Sent from my iPhone


----------



## gu9cci (Mar 28, 2011)

Yes it was.mine is latest version and drc is 2.0 firmware.pretty pricey that sampling converter.I ordered analog cables and will try new optical cable as well.


----------



## gu9cci (Mar 28, 2011)

Whatever that is for processor that caliber shouldn't doit period.Those audison comentts it is normal or upgrade firmware is ******** to me.


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

gu9cci said:


> Yes it was.mine is latest version and drc is 2.0 firmware.pretty pricey that sampling converter.I ordered analog cables and will try new optical cable as well.





gu9cci said:


> Whatever that is for processor that caliber shouldn't doit period.Those audison comentts it is normal or upgrade firmware is ******** to me.


I don’t understand what you are saying with regard to firmware upgrades. The issue I think you are experiencing is not a firmware issue and is not caused by the Bit One. It isn't "doing" anything. If there is a digital interface conflict, as I suspect, it’s a result of how some head units output their digital signal, and what the Bit One requires at its digital input. Audison came up with what is supposed to be a solution for those using head units that result in this interface problem. You need to confirm whether this is in fact the issue you are having. You can do this by trying a different head unit with an optical output, or purchase the SFC, and see if the problem goes away when you use either. Why are you trying a new optical cable? Does it appear damaged? Since you say this is happening in only one channel, I highly doubt that replacing the optical cable will resolve it. Sure, it’s frustrating to have to deal with issues like this, but that’s the nature of technology we are using. Read the threads on the MS-8 and the Alpine H-800 and you will see how many people who thought that buying those was going to result in a music listening experience without issues. NOT!


----------



## gu9cci (Mar 28, 2011)

What i was mean by that is early models have the same issue and audison manual and tech say to upgrade firmware of drc.Anyhow i have optical cable pretty thick and is little bended due limoted space.Wors case i stay analog.I like the processor just want to resolve the issue.Who have the sampler in stock?


----------



## matthewo (Jan 31, 2008)

I'm having problems with the drc controllers. I went a year and my first drc dash controller started loosing pixels. I got a new replacement and now after a few more months I'm getting failing pixels again. Everything still works though


----------



## 83corolla (Nov 5, 2009)

Sorry to bump this up, but there seemed to be a lot of helpful info here from users of the bitone. I think my bitone is starting to take a crap on me.

I have my bitone installed since febuary 2010 and 6 weeks ago my drc went dead and I had to get a new one. Since last week when I press the drc to turn it on it seems like it crashes. The bitone unit itself mounted under the seat seems to remain on because I see the blue light, but the drc itself is completely shut off. The volume of my music seems to go anolog and the sound is so faint, like it's barely even on and sounds bad. Sometimes I get I'm my car and it turns on fine, then five minutes later the same thing happens, drc goes dead, and back to faint barely audiable analog.

I have some a video recorded on my phone where on a rare occasions a lound nasty buzzing noise comes from my tweeters. It sounds like someone is dying. I have to turn my head unit off for it to go away, because the drc will be off and froze. My H/U is drz9255 btw. 

I don't know if this brand new dcr went crazy after only weeks or my bitone unit it itself is the problem. Its a bitone.1 with the 1.5 firmware. I see no "reset button" on the unit and when I have my laptop hooked up it only says I can wipe settings. I'm Leary on updating to the 1.5.1. I would think maybe I can have my guy set this up to not use the drc and just control it my H/U but I like the drc and just paid for new one. I don't know What's wrong. Any help is appreciated.


----------



## VooDooZg (Dec 25, 2010)

Please help me, I have a problem with BitOne

I have the latest BitOne version 1.5.1.1. and the DRC 2.0
connected to the amplifier Audison LRX5.1k (also newer version)
Speakers Voce AV12, AV6.5, AV3.0 and AV1.1 ( AV3.0 and AV1.1 are connected to a crossover from AV6.5 set ) and HU Pioneer AVH-3200DVD, HU is connected to the processor via chinch

It happens to me that my speaker turned off and turns on and shuts down completely (in particular the right tweeter + midrange HI-Mid crossover), I noticed that when I press a cinch on the BitOne he turns on and of speaker ( hi-mid right) - I thought it was a problem in the output of the processor, specifically first, but after what I tried to connect HI-mid at 7 and 8 outputs on the processor happened to me again the same thing after a while


Then I tried to replace the position chincha (hi-mid-woofer with a kick) and then kick was working ok for a while and than same thing turned off and turns on and shuts down completely, so I did a little rotate ***** and since then everything was normal, but an hour later, again same thing with Hi-mid right - hi-mid were now on 7 and 8 ch. not on 1 and 2 !?


I do not know what to do anymore, a did 30 or more I/O setup all over again, and this happend while i drive the car, !?

sorry for my bed English


----------



## Rockford (Aug 10, 2010)

BIT ONE OWNERS Help ! Just set up a new Bit One into 2011 GTI . Ieverything is wired correctly. I am using hi level in . When I run through initial set up,Ch 1 (FL) calibrates fast, but then ch 2 (FR) takes forever. Finally got it to work, but then had to unhook power and cabling. Now it ruins through Ch 1 perfecty but doesnt go to Ch2. I wait for like 45 minutes and still nothing. Ideas? TrickS


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

Rockford said:


> BIT ONE OWNERS Help ! Just set up a new Bit One into 2011 GTI . Ieverything is wired correctly. I am using hi level in . When I run through initial set up,Ch 1 (FL) calibrates fast, but then ch 2 (FR) takes forever. Finally got it to work, but then had to unhook power and cabling. Now it ruins through Ch 1 perfecty but doesnt go to Ch2. I wait for like 45 minutes and still nothing. Ideas? TrickS


It appears that your hi-level output into channel 2 is not sending the signal from the test CD. Make certain there is nothing wrong with that connection, or that you haven't inadvertently connected one of your outputs to channel 3, for example, and that there is nothing wrong with the connector.


----------



## dimibo (Nov 24, 2011)

Hi
I had the same problem the first channel was calibrated for just few second and then for others it lasts forever or it freezes and then for some reason i bought second bit1 and it calibrates all channels for seconds


----------



## Diegoroy (Apr 13, 2012)

Hi there

I have Clarion VX709A as HU and Linked to bit one via RCA's
I was wondering how I can link them by optical to run a full DA System.
the HU doesn't have optical output but CeNet and Rgb And RCA s.


----------



## south east customz (Jan 17, 2011)

Diegoroy said:


> Hi there
> 
> I have Clarion VX709A as HU and Linked to bit one via RCA's
> I was wondering how I can link them by optical to run a full DA System.
> the HU doesn't have optical output but CeNet and Rgb And RCA s.


You would have to have the unit modes to get digital out at the cd mech, it would only give u digital via cd.
You use the drc for volume, it bypasses all controls in the radio


----------



## Diegoroy (Apr 13, 2012)

Sorry
I did not get it.
Is there any accessories to attach to Clarion to make Digital connection or this HU doesn't have the capability at all.

I would be appreciated if U show me the way


----------



## eddieg (Dec 20, 2009)

if your HU has HDMI output than you can purchase an HDMI converter and a 12VDC to 5VDC step down power supplier (regulator).

The HDMI converter breaks down the single HDMI input to a separate Video output and audio outputs - you can convert it either to analog RCA's or digital either SPDIF (which the BitOne does have) or Optical.

Audiophile usually tend in favor of the SPDIF as the optical output may suffer from jitter issues, though I was never able to hear such a difference. 


I use a CARPC with an optical out on its motherboard directly to a bit one and the signal is simply CLEAN. 



The things you should be aware of is that some of the double din head units only have optical output for the CD and for some of them like pioneer for example the optical output is working with an encrypted protocol dedicated only for their own sound processors. 

As well you should be aware whether the optical output is RAW or not as if it is, you have a "dead head" that can not even control the volume and it would be possible only via the DRC, I hate that and this is why I did not configure my FE player application on the CARPC to work at passthrough mode (RAW) but it does control the volume from the PC.

It allowed me to install a Griffin Powermate (just like the rollers you have in luxury cars) as a volume controller and mode controller turn wheel  


But here is the thing, just before I implemented the Optic out I was using the RCA inputs (output from the mainboard of the PC) and the difference between analog and digital is very very small! -> the only difference is at the lower bass response, it is a bit cleaner on the optical out, and that is where it ends. 

Perhaps the best advice would be to take some player (iriver 120 for example) which has an optical out and connect it to the bit one so you can judge the difference your self, it just might be that you would see no reason to put such effort... 

As well - take in mind that you might loos some functionality from the HU such as volume control -> for me, this is out of the question. 

Eddie


----------



## south east customz (Jan 17, 2011)

Diegoroy said:


> Sorry
> I did not get it.
> Is there any accessories to attach to Clarion to make Digital connection or this HU doesn't have the capability at all.
> 
> I would be appreciated if U show me the way


You have to grab the digital out at the cd transport. Your deck has no provision for it.
Meaning a TECH can do this mod who is familiar with it. 
I use jeremy Carlson, but Matt R and a few others are also good techs.
Or if u are good at soldering and reading tech info. You can do some research via google, it is a published mod. It would help to get a service manual thru clarion.


----------



## MDubYa (Feb 17, 2011)

I have been reading through this and was wondering if anyone has used a windows 7 tablet to tune and set up the b1? I am on my phone and I have been searching and have not found a definitive answer. Just curious if it's possible and what tablet people are using?

NM just found this 
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/technical-advanced-car-audio-discussion/126126-acer-iconia-tuning-bitone.html


----------



## D-Bass (Apr 27, 2012)

Don't you have to use the cd to load the software? does your tablet have a disc drive?


----------



## MDubYa (Feb 17, 2011)

D-Bass said:


> Don't you have to use the cd to load the software? does your tablet have a disc drive?


I don't have the tablet yet but Glenn used one in this thread and said it worked great...you can download the software straight from Audison.

here's the thread
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...cussion/126126-acer-iconia-tuning-bitone.html


----------



## MDubYa (Feb 17, 2011)

Honestly if I knew anything about computers I would buy an ipad and install windows 7 on it as well and just use that...I think it's possible but I have seen a lot of people using virtual windows on ipads using a cloud rather than actually installing it on the iPad. (which wouldn't work if you did not have internet connection.)


----------



## Cuppa (Apr 7, 2013)

Hi, first post!

Just had an Audison Bit One installed driving 3 x Sinfoni Grave amps and 2 x sets of Morel Elate Ltd Edition 2-way speakers (front and rear), plus a Morel sub.

I am ONLY using the Optical input on the Bit One which is from an Audison DA1 hooked up to my Audi OEM head unit over the cars MOST ring to extract the optical digital output.
High-level master inputs _are _connected, but purely to transfer phone call audio and parking sensor sounds, I cannot transfer entertainment audio from this amp (i.e. I cannot play the test CD through the high-level inputs as this is purely car produced sounds).

I initially tried to bypass the setup wizard and just setup the unit just having the optical hookup only, but the wizard forces you to use either the low or high level inputs, you cannot setup from the optical source. In the end we just plugged an ipod into a 3.5mm - dual RCA cable and plugged it into the low level inputs just to get past the wizard when doing the install.

So it's working, the sound is OK, but the system is pretty quiet which I guess is down to bodging the wizard with the ipod headphone level output just playing music on full to get through the wizard.

So, any advice on getting the system source EQ setup properly? Now I'm back home I have a portable iRiver iHP-140 which has a line level out I could hook up to the low level inputs if I rip the test CD to the iRiver first?

Or I could just go get my home CD player and plug that in to the low level inputs?

I don't seem to be able to adjust the input levels for the system when it is connected in target mode, but just noticed they are available for adjustment when I go in offline mode and load my saved config - could I manually adjust them higher from this and then save it back when connected as currently the Master EQ is set at -45db in the saved config file. Could I just increase this offline and then reconnect and sync back up?

First time setting this up for me so just want to understand the best way forward, sorry for the n00b post - I love my music, but my kit setup experience has been limited to indoor/home audio previously.

Thanks for any help.

p.s. I will also be using the head unit almost exclusively for volume, so any other pointers on how I should be setting up all the relevant bits and pieces?


----------



## MUGWUMP (Jan 29, 2012)

I'm pretty sure you can make changes and save the file. I think I remember reading that in the manual. Haven't installed mine yet.

Can't see why you couldn't make a backup and give it a shot to see what happens.


----------



## dimibo (Nov 24, 2011)

I could send you my setup file and then you can import it and then you can make changes and to listen on normal levels.


----------



## eddieg (Dec 20, 2009)

Cuppa said:


> Hi, first post!
> 
> Just had an Audison Bit One installed driving 3 x Sinfoni Grave amps and 2 x sets of Morel Elate Ltd Edition 2-way speakers (front and rear), plus a Morel sub.
> 
> ...


I would suggest to speak with Audi's support devision and see if you can have information as for what pre-out voltage level their head unit should have on its low level (even if the exit is not physically enabled), then you can do either of the below: 

1. Get a line driver and hook it up between your MP3 player and the bit one and match the pre out voltage using a fluke (multi-meter) 

2. Get a friends HU that has a good pre out which is matching the expectations

3. Measure your home CD pre-out and if it matches or even close to the requirements then use it to bypass the bit one wizard.


I would just take any good old alpine (example) that has a 5V pre-out an go bypassed the wizard.


----------



## Cuppa (Apr 7, 2013)

Thanks for the replies everyone. I still have my existing Audi head unit in a box, so could hook that up to set up the low level source EQ.

An issue I have right now is the unit not powering up/staying on properly.

When I come out to it in the morning and just get in the car (I have keyless entry and a start/stop button) then the DRC display stays off, but I can manually turn it on. Alternatively if I get in the car and just press the start button (but don't depress clutch so don't start it) then the unit comes on.

But if I then start the engine the DRC goes off as the engine turns over and the system won't play sounds, no matter how much I press the DRC on/off button. Then, about 15 minutes later the system just suddenly starts playing sounds and the DRC is lit.

An alternative is if I open the car and jump in, depress the clutch and start it straight up, then it comes on and stays on.

I think this is all to do with the 12V / KEY-MEM ON/OFF REM wiring.

Ideally I want it so that when I get in the car it powers up and just stays powers up until I lock/leave the car. Or that I can manually turn it on/off at will if for some reason it hasn't come on. So no matter what the head unit is doing (on/off), I always want the Bit One powered up in case I get a phone call, etc. No matter what state the system was when I turned the car off, I want it to come on when I get in the car.

So how should I wire it (or tell the installer to wire it)? Or is it software related and needing a reboot hence the 15min delay, just seemed weird the DRC on/off button did nothing.

Thanks for any help.

I love my music and know the ins and out of high end home audio, but car audio is new for me.


----------



## eddieg (Dec 20, 2009)

Ah yes  the very strange MO of the BIT one power on and off. 

OOOHH I suffered from that quite a lot when first installing my car-pc in the car. 

The bit one is ALWAYS connected to the mains (constant B+) and it uses its remote in to toggle on off 

BUT! if you change the on/off to the BIT one during the time it synchronizes with the DRC, it would stop responding to its remote relay and would remain stuck either at ON or at OFF -> this explains the behavior you see in your car. 

What that I've done is simple add a rocker switch to the BIT ONE remote in wire so that I can reset it as required and as well I also have an issue in which I turn off the engine - if the bit is on then my carpc would take upt to 2 mintues!!! to hibernate, so I first turn off the bit one with the rocker switch and only then halt the engine letting the carpc go down to hibernation (I also installed a rocker switch to the carpc for emergency or when I simply want to drive without it). 

What that I suggest is - add a rocker switch to the bit one.

You can leave it on when you turn off the car - the bit one would go off no worries about that, but at times you know that you might use the remote start, just turn it off at engine stop. 

It is hurting a bit the automation of the car, but easy to get used to it actually.


----------



## Cuppa (Apr 7, 2013)

eddieg said:


> Ah yes  the very strange MO of the BIT one power on and off.
> 
> OOOHH I suffered from that quite a lot when first installing my car-pc in the car.
> 
> ...


Aah, so when I jump in quick and just start the engine, I'm catching it before it started the synchronisation, but otherwise I'm interrupting the sync. How long does this sync process take?

Thanks for the advice for a rocker switch - sound like a good idea for when I need it, but at this rate I'm going to have to do it almost every time I get in the car. There must be another way so that switch is a last resort rather than an every time manual step?

Or could it be a combination of some form of remote in wire from the head unit (or signal trigger from the head unit) initialisation triggering the sync conflict from the power up, type thing? I need to experiment more.


----------



## eddieg (Dec 20, 2009)

well you can try a timer relay to the remote in of the bit one 

check out the PAC-7 tunable remote relay (it does other functions as well) so that it would turn on and off with a delay (i think it is about 5 to 7 seconds that you need to pass) of I would say 10 to 15 seconds should do it. 

I would consult an installer as for how to set the delay for ON and OFF as I am not sure exactly how it works, I just do it manually each time I enter the car or more to say power on the audio system. 

As for auto power on from a phone conversation - the "phone" line on the bit one is alos a remote on toggle so no matter if your bit one is on or off - the handsfree would turn it on if its mute wire is connected to the bit one "phone" entrance (the handsfree send a mute signal to the bit one and it will turn it on at incoming call mode) works like a charm.


----------



## rockin (Sep 13, 2012)

? How does everyone run sub input from HU into Bit 1? If you use L+R out, Bit 1 only has 1 input ~ridiculous~ Do you use a Y adapter? Use only 1 channel? Scrap it and just run L and R and try and use the DRC to control sub level?


----------



## slade1274 (Mar 25, 2008)

B1 has 6 channel input.... what are you asking?


----------



## rockin (Sep 13, 2012)

6 channel of input ONE CHANNEL OF SUB INPUT


----------



## meelo (Jul 2, 2007)

rockin said:


> 6 channel of input ONE CHANNEL OF SUB INPUT


Are you saying your head unit only have one RCA for sub output?


----------



## rockin (Sep 13, 2012)

I'm sorry, I really lack the ability to articulate this question more clearly in the English language. I don't know if there is a problem with my explaination, or a reading comprehension issue, or what. Can someone look at my posts on this subject and let me know if this is unclear or if they aren't understanding my question.

2 channels of sub output from my HU, 1 channel of sub input on Bit 1 = problem. Anyone.


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

rockin said:


> I'm sorry, I really lack the ability to articulate this question more clearly in the English language. I don't know if there is a problem with my explaination, or a reading comprehension issue, or what. Can someone look at my posts on this subject and let me know if this is unclear or if they aren't understanding my question.
> 
> 2 channels of sub output from my HU, 1 channel of sub input on Bit 1 = problem. Anyone.


DON'T use the sub output from your HU. Use one pair of RCA outputs from the HU to the Bit One inputs (Ch. 1 & 2) for your entire system, and when you run the I/O configuration wizard designate which outputs from the Bit One will be used for your sub amp, and thus your sub. If your sub amp is a 2 Ch. amp you want to use both L/R channels into your sub amp, but if it's a mono amp, you can designate just one output channel from the Bit One. When you access the software through your PC, you can set the appropriate gain level for the channel(s) controlling your sub amp, and also control the sub's output level through the software and the DRC.


----------



## meelo (Jul 2, 2007)

I agree with Buzzman....i'll leave this here but don't use the sub outputs just use the bitone to generate it.

I think what we don't understand is that your standard headunit has 

FRONT 
L = CH1
R = CH2

REAR 
L = CH3
R = CH4

SUB
L = CH5
R = CH6

Attached is a pic of all the input to the BitOne.....










Please let me know how I do not understand what you are trying to ask? It does say in section 5.4 that CH6 is used as sub but that implies that you ahve a 5.1 system...what deck are you running?

Any further info can help us figure out what is missing.

Thanks.....


----------



## slade1274 (Mar 25, 2008)

I get it... You don't want to use the DRC. As long as the sub output on the HU is selected as a mono signal, both will be identical. You only need to run one to the B1 input and select as such during setup- that will allow you to control volume and sub level from HU without needing DRC.


----------



## rockin (Sep 13, 2012)

slade1274 said:


> I get it... You don't want to use the DRC. As long as the sub output on the HU is selected as a mono signal, both will be identical. You only need to run one to the B1 input and select as such during setup- that will allow you to control volume and sub level from HU without needing DRC.


Buzz, thanks. I was kind of afraid of that. 

Slade, that is a good solution. Will have to see if my CDA 117 has that feature. Its not so much that I don't want to use the DRC, it was kind of a battle to set the B1 up. All during setup the DRC wasn't recognized as connected (I'm sure its something I didn't do) but I'm not up for battling to get the remote recognized and working when I don't think I'll use it for anything other than sub control (and don't really want to mount it, either)

Thanks Buzz and Slade for the replies.


----------



## slade1274 (Mar 25, 2008)

Use it if you can..... The dynamic EQ function is worth it.

It allows you to set one EQ at low volume and one at high volume and then extrapolates from one to the other as you turn up to rock out. Most useful as many see a desire to bump up midbass and sub response at higher volumes as they are generally used when on the road- where road noise tends to cover those frequencies a bit.


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

rockin said:


> Buzz, thanks. I was kind of afraid of that.
> 
> Slade, that is a good solution. Will have to see if my CDA 117 has that feature. Its not so much that I don't want to use the DRC, it was kind of a battle to set the B1 up. All during setup the DRC wasn't recognized as connected (I'm sure its something I didn't do) but I'm not up for battling to get the remote recognized and working when I don't think I'll use it for anything other than sub control (and don't really want to mount it, either)
> 
> Thanks Buzz and Slade for the replies.


The DRC offers much more than just sub control. As Slade points out, you can utilize the Dynamic EQ function of the processor. In addition, you can store and use 4 pre-sets, which is indispensable while going through the tuning process. You can have presets for different listening positions, for driver only, for driver and passenger, etc. The DRC simply needs to be connected via the supplied cable, so if you are having trouble, check that connection. Perhaps a pinched wire or a loose connection.


----------



## rockin (Sep 13, 2012)

Buzzman said:


> The DRC offers much more than just sub control. As Slade points out, you can utilize the Dynamic EQ function of the processor. In addition, you can store and use 4 pre-sets, which is indispensable while going through the tuning process. You can have presets for different listening positions, for driver only, for driver and passenger, etc. The DRC simply needs to be connected via the supplied cable, so if you are having trouble, check that connection. Perhaps a pinched wire or a loose connection.


Well, if you both recommend it I'll smear some vasaline on my face and head back for round 2. It would be nice to have presets w/o dragging the PC out...

by the way my HU does have MONO /STEREO sub modes. Great call. Thanks.


----------



## rockin (Sep 13, 2012)

Problem solved. Someone didn't quite push the ribbon connector onto the DRC tightly enough! Thought you'd get a laugh from that. Imagine - a pleasant surprise troubleshooting for once in your life. Never would have had that wonderful remote lusciousness if you guys didn't crack the whip on me. So thanks 4 that! Time for the fun part.


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

rockin said:


> Problem solved. Someone didn't quite push the ribbon connector onto the DRC tightly enough! Thought you'd get a laugh from that. Imagine - a pleasant surprise troubleshooting for once in your life. Never would have had that wonderful remote lusciousness if you guys didn't crack the whip on me. So thanks 4 that! Time for the fun part.


"Someone?" :laugh: Glad you got it resolved.


----------



## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

Buzzman said:


> "Someone?" :laugh: Glad you got it resolved.


Another lesson in "seek the simple solution first."



I had a humbling lesson in assumptions recently with regard to the left/right RCA inputs/outputs on the B1, which I only recently discovered are reversed with respect to every other _anything_ that sports RCAs.

I originally made my RCA connections based on the "sloppy" assumption the left channel plugs in on the left for both the input and output sides. Signals from the head unit were heard correctly but for the wrong reason. When it came to tuning the B1... any adjustments to the left channel would affect the right. Funny Italians... playing tricks on my sense of sanity.

What's _really_ odd is the Aux-in RCAs follow the familiar convention, so WTF Audison? 

That aside... it's a positively brilliant processor in a compact chassis that allows for a centered stage with a wider range of installation creativity.


----------



## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

I realized after my previous post that you can assign each RCA to what you want, left/right. So once again I realize that I'm still learning.


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

Gadget01 said:


> I realized after my previous post that you can assign each RCA to what you want, left/right. So once again I realize that I'm still learning.


Yes, so long as polarity is consistent at both the input and outputs.


----------



## slade1274 (Mar 25, 2008)

Don't confuse the kid Buzz- polarity wouldn't switch unless you toggle it in the software; and that would be the same regardless of input/output assignments. RCAs are built to prevent that.


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

slade1274 said:


> Don't confuse the kid Buzz- polarity wouldn't switch unless you toggle it in the software; and that would be the same regardless of input/output assignments. RCAs are built to prevent that.


Yeah, but with the Bit One an easily made mistake (as Gadget01 realized I believe), is to not look at the channel designations on the Pre-in RCAs, and assume that the left side pre-input is actually the left channel, which is the case with most equipment. However, with the Bit One it's the right channel, and the software display shows it as such. Therefore, you have to reverse the inputs at the software level to maintain proper polarity, which many first time users don't realize.


----------



## slade1274 (Mar 25, 2008)

We had different definitions of polarity..... I now know what you meant and thought that is what he discovered and communicated remedying already.

I was referring to somehow switching the pos/neg of a given channel on input/ouptut- something easily done between amp and speakers but not so easily done when plugging in RCA cables.

Carry on


----------



## rockin (Sep 13, 2012)

OK so couple days into tuning and listening. I notice small, quiet pops or crackles when I skip/change tracks. Never had this before. IS this common with bit 1 - is there a way 2 eliminate them?


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

rockin said:


> OK so couple days into tuning and listening. I notice small, quiet pops or crackles when I skip/change tracks. Never had this before. IS this common with bit 1 - is there a way 2 eliminate them?


I don't know which inputs on the Bit One you are using when listening to music, but this issue tends to occur with the digital connection. It is head unit dependent. The issue occurs because certain head units do not send a continuous digital signal to the Bit One when a track is paused or when you skip tracks, and the Bit One essentially shuts down and restarts when the track begins, transmitting the pops you hear. If you are in fact using the digital connection, then your only options are to use the RCA/Master connection, purchase an Audison SFC to insert between your head unit and the Bit One, try another head unit to see if the issue goes away, or just live with it.


----------



## rockin (Sep 13, 2012)

Living with it is not an option, we can eliminate that one. LOL. Unfortunately I'm using RCAs for signal( my sub channel question.) So what does that leave us? Replace HU? That is doable as long as that will solve the problem. The turn on and turn off is deadly silent. So if I can eliminate those nasty track cracks, and this piece is reliable, I think we have a winner. 

So I have to ask 1) Are you 100% confident the HU is the prob?

2) What HU is everyone running with this DSP? Is the operation deadly silent?


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

rockin said:


> Living with it is not an option, we can eliminate that one. LOL. Unfortunately I'm using RCAs for signal( my sub channel question.) So what does that leave us? Replace HU? That is doable as long as that will solve the problem. The turn on and turn off is deadly silent. So if I can eliminate those nasty track cracks, and this piece is reliable, I think we have a winner.
> 
> So I have to ask 1) Are you 100% confident the HU is the prob?
> 
> 2) What HU is everyone running with this DSP? Is the operation deadly silent?


Hmmm. I have never experienced this issue with the analog connection. It was definitely an issue with the digital connection, which is why they developed the SFC. Have you called Elettromedia USA to get their thoughts?


----------



## rockin (Sep 13, 2012)

Just e mailed 'em. Thanks. Will let you know their recommendation and results for sure.


----------



## rockin (Sep 13, 2012)

Guess they aren't going to reply. LOL.


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

rockin said:


> Guess they aren't going to reply. LOL.


Call them. Much better response time.


----------



## rockin (Sep 13, 2012)

Would have called in the first place, but they provide no phone # on their website. Doesn't seem like they really want to hear from the owners of their products. Too bad to because absent this one issue (which may be a combination of my HU and their processor) this thing has been great.


----------



## rockin (Sep 13, 2012)

Got nowhere trying to contact the US branch using their e mail form. Sent a message off to Italy and they responded fast. They sent me all the contact info, and must have forwarded my question to the California based rep because he answered the phone and knew what I was going to ask. Gave me a couple solutions to attempt too. Very good customer service.


----------



## rockin (Sep 13, 2012)

Unfortunately no success with proposed solutions. Tried 2 different RCAs, then grounded the HU to the neg. terminal of the battery last night. No change. Tried another HU today, still heard it. (Admittedly neither are high end HUs) I'm trying everything to eliminate the Audison as the source of the noise, but I'm running out of things to check. Anyone have any idea?


----------



## UNFORGIVEN (Sep 25, 2010)

So my RCAs are plugged into the correct locations and when I make adjustments to left/right tweeters/mids/etc on the software it's all 100%

Problem: I played the iasca polarity track and everything is reversed. Right side voice COmes from the left and vise versa... How do I fix this in the software???


----------



## CloGr33n3 (Jan 14, 2013)

I have had a bit one for a few years now. Have not been totally satisfied until recently. I am running a full DA system in a extended cab truck.

Alpine 9856 HU, 2 15" SPL Show Hertz, 2 HSK 165 Hertz component sets, Extra set of Hertz tweeters, Hertz 3-way 6x9's, 10" SPL Show Hertz midrange , 5 1/2" set Hertz. VRX 6.420CS, LRx 4.1K, 2 LRx 1.1k's. Bitone running it all.

Always has sounded good but thought it could sound better. I have experienced the popping sound switching between the digital audio and the master or HU. The bit tune came into my life and changed my whole set up. Finally where it needs to be. I highly recommend not even trying to mess with setting up each individual EQ for each channel. Then trying to set up the master EQ. Not fun! Bit tune is the key to it all sounding better than a live concert. Audison, Hertz equipment is amazing hands down. Spend the money to get or use the Bit tune if you have a Bit one end of story.


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

UNFORGIVEN said:


> So my RCAs are plugged into the correct locations and when I make adjustments to left/right tweeters/mids/etc on the software it's all 100%
> 
> Problem: I played the iasca polarity track and everything is reversed. Right side voice COmes from the left and vise versa... How do I fix this in the software???


It's not necessarily a software issue. First make certain that you do in fact have your left channel RCA from the HU connected to the input designated as left when you run the Bit One IOS config. Generally, that will be channel 1 unless you flip them. If so, then you have an incorrect connection between speakers and amps, or between your amps.


----------



## UNFORGIVEN (Sep 25, 2010)

Buzzman said:


> It's not necessarily a software issue. First make certain that you do in fact have your left channel RCA from the HU connected to the input designated as left when you run the Bit One IOS config. Generally, that will be channel 1 unless you flip them. If so, then you have an incorrect connection between speakers and amps, or between your amps.


Now that I think about it the channels on my headunit > bit one > amps are:
Channel 1 ... Left
Channel 2 ... Right 
Channel 3 ... Left
Channel 4 ... Right 

But when I ran the setup initially it had
Ch. 1 ... Right 
Ch. 2 ... Left 
Ect... Everything is backwards but bit one will not let me switch these to how everything is setup. Do I have to run everything backwards to match the software?


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

UNFORGIVEN said:


> Now that I think about it the channels on my headunit > bit one > amps are:
> Channel 1 ... Left
> Channel 2 ... Right
> Channel 3 ... Left
> ...


First, why do you have 4 outputs from your HU to the Bit One? What are you sending to the Bit One via Channels 3 and 4? You need only use 2, as the Bit One sums the inputs to its 8 outputs. I recommend that you use only 2 outputs from your HU, and then at the outputs of the Bit One assign the appropriate channels to the relevant speakers (e.g., 1 = left tweeter, 2 = left midrange or left midbass, etc., depending on whether you are operating a 2-way or 3-way set-up. Second, you should not have any issue switching Ch. 1 on the Bit One to left when you run the IO config. When you are prompted to "Assign Master Lo-level Signals" Channel 1 should say "Front Left." If not, simply click on the down arrow and change it to Front Left. Then you proceed to Channel 2 and set that for Front Right. I hope this helps.


----------



## UNFORGIVEN (Sep 25, 2010)

Buzzman said:


> First, why do you have 4 outputs from your HU to the Bit One? What are you sending to the Bit One via Channels 3 and 4? You need only use 2, as the Bit One sums the inputs to its 8 outputs. I recommend that you use only 2 outputs from your HU, and then at the outputs of the Bit One assign the appropriate channels to the relevant speakers (e.g., 1 = left tweeter, 2 = left midrange or left midbass, etc., depending on whether you are operating a 2-way or 3-way set-up. Second, you should not have any issue switching Ch. 1 on the Bit One to left when you run the IO config. When you are prompted to "Assign Master Lo-level Signals" Channel 1 should say "Front Left." If not, simply click on the down arrow and change it to Front Left. Then you proceed to Channel 2 and set that for Front Right. I hope this helps.


I'm confused now.. I only have to assign 2 Channels at the bit one and it will pick up the rest??? I'm running a fully active 2-way front stage off a 4 Channel amp

I haven't tried running the IO Config in awhile but what I remember front pressing the up down arrow it only switched channels 1+2 with 3+4 as they are linked. I cannot switch 1-2 to 2-1 (if that makes sense) but i'll try again when I get home in a couple days

Headunit: 
Front - L + R
Rear - L + R
Sub - L + R

Bit One:
Ch 1 = Front Left
Ch 2 = Front Right <---- Tweeters are run actively off front RCA's
Ch 3 = Rear Left
Ch 4 = Rear Right < ---- Mids are run actively off rear RCA's
Ch 5 = Sub Left
Ch 6 = Sub Right

Amp:
Same as above^^^^

Ok. Now when I start up the bit one initial setup It only doesn't let me toggle and correct these channels so everything is now setup backwards as such:

Ch. 1 = Front Right
Ch. 2 = Front Left 
Ch. 3 = Rear Right
Ch. 4 = Rear Left 
Ch. 5+6 = Subwoofers

*Assuming it wont let me reverse channels 1+2 and 3+4 do I have to re-run all my rca's backwards in order to match the bit one software?
*


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

UNFORGIVEN said:


> I'm confused now.. I only have to assign 2 Channels at the bit one and it will pick up the rest??? I'm running a fully active 2-way front stage off a 4 Channel amp
> 
> I haven't tried running the IO Config in awhile but what I remember front pressing the up down arrow it only switched channels 1+2 with 3+4 as they are linked. I cannot switch 1-2 to 2-1 (if that makes sense) but i'll try again when I get home in a couple days
> 
> ...


It's pretty simple, actually:

Head Unit: Front - L + R into Channels 1 (Left) and 2 (Right) of Bit One inputs.

Set HU volume at max level before it clips. Run I/O config. 

Select Master Input:

Check box for low level

Assign Master Lo-Level Signals 
Channel 1 = Front Left
Channel 2 = Front Right

Insert Installation CD. After the input levels for Channels 1 and 2 have been set by the Bit One, follow the instructions.


Next, you will be able to assign the channels to your respective speakers by clicking on the appropriate speaker image shown in the car diagram. 

Since you are running a 2-way front stage, all you will do is check the small circles in the top left image for the tweeters and the large circles in the top left image for your midbass. If you are running a sub, click on the bottom center subwoofer image. Click next and you will be prompted to select the passive crossover configuration. Since you aren't using one, just ignore that and click next. Now you will be able to assign the output channels of the Bit One that correspond to your speaker set-up. So, set the left tweeter to ch. 1 by toggling the up/down arrows till you see 1, do the same for the right side till you see 2, do the same for the left midbass till you see 3, and do the same for the right midbass till you see 4. If you are running a sub, you can designate that channel any individual number or pair of numbers between 5 and 8 you wish. Click next and you can skip the remaining set-up options since they are not applicable. Once the set-up completed message is shown, you now need to make sure your RCAs from the Bit One to your amp mirrors the outputs you have assigned specific speakers, and that those outputs from the amp are connected to that particular speaker. So, channel 1 on the output of the Bit One must be connected to channel 1 of your amp, which must be connected to your left tweeter, channel 2 on the Bit One output must be connected to channel 2 of your amp, which must be connected to your right tweeter, and so forth. 

Good luck.


----------



## MUGWUMP (Jan 29, 2012)

I have an issue with my speakers clicking/popping using RCA inputs from my CDA-117.

I'm running a 3-way plus sub. It's a brand new install. I can hear the clicking randomly during quiet parts of songs. It does not get louder when I turn it up because I can jam it and not hear any pops. I can hear it moving between speakers and from side to side in the front. I haven't heard anything odd from the subs.

I was going to check the RCAs from the head unit, but since the clicking doesn't get louder I'm not sure that the input has anything to do with my problem.

Any ideas?

I have latest bit one and DRC firmware. I updated and reset everything and I still have the issue.

Ground?

EDIT: I just thought of something else after reading the end of the post above mine.

I have only channel 8 assigned to my subs, but the PDX-M12 has L&R inputs. Will that effect the signal to the amp and should I assign 7 to my sub as well?


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

it looks like a lot of ppl are utilizing a Bit one with an aftermarket head unit. I can understand why they want to hook up all their Pre-out put from their head unit to the Bit One. Its cleaner having the volume adjustment at the head uint vs the DRC. I can undersand using the DRC as a volume control ifi was utilizing a digital signal, but since most head units have analog outputs then why not use the head unit? this way most ppl can retain their steering wheel controls also, as well as fade, balance, or adjust sub level all from one large unit 9 in some cases a 7 inch screen ( Doube Din units) vs a 2 inch screen on the DRC?


I thought the "sum up" feature on the BitOne was more geared towards OEM heads and not aftermarket.

i'm finanlly in the process of installing my BitOne...and now I'm concerned with using the 6 pre inputs of the bit one.

What im hearing is i cant use 6 pre inputs and have it work correctly? 2 front pre's, 2 rear pre's, and 2 sub pre's? and i cant designate that the Front pres will feed the 2 way up front, and the rear pres will be the source for the 2 rear speakers , and the sub from the 2 sub inputs?


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

Timelessr1 said:


> it looks like a lot of ppl are utilizing a Bit one with an aftermarket head unit. I can understand why they want to hook up all their Pre-out put from their head unit to the Bit One. Its cleaner having the volume adjustment at the head uint vs the DRC. I can undersand using the DRC as a volume control ifi was utilizing a digital signal, but since most head units have analog outputs then why not use the head unit? this way most ppl can retain their steering wheel controls also, as well as fade, balance, or adjust sub level all from one large unit 9 in some cases a 7 inch screen ( Doube Din units) vs a 2 inch screen on the DRC?


The DRC is more than a volume control. It allows you to recall up to 4 pre-sets of different crossover and / or EQ settings so you can easily compare the settings, use the Dynamic EQ feature, etc. Also, and something that everyone seems to overlook, when you use the volume control on your head unit, you vary the output voltage that the Bit One sees if you are using the analog outputs rather than a digital output. Remember, you set up the Bit One to get optimal signal to noise ratio by setting your head unit to the volume level that delivers maximum voltage before clipping. If you use your HU's volume control after setting up the Bit One, you will not get the optimal signal to noise ration unless you return it to that volume setting, and you may not wish to listen to music at that level. However, by leaving your HU's volume control at that max level, and utilizing the DRC as your volume control, you take advantage of the higher voltage your HU is sending to the Bit One, no matter the volume at which you listen. 




Timelessr1 said:


> I thought the "sum up" feature on the BitOne was more geared towards OEM heads and not aftermarket.


Not true. And, the obvious benefit is that you save the cost of multiple RCA's running from your HU to the Bit One's inputs.




Timelessr1 said:


> i'm finanlly in the process of installing my BitOne...and now I'm concerned with using the 6 pre inputs of the bit one.
> 
> What im hearing is i cant use 6 pre inputs and have it work correctly? 2 front pre's, 2 rear pre's, and 2 sub pre's? and i cant designate that the Front pres will feed the 2 way up front, and the rear pres will be the source for the 2 rear speakers , and the sub from the 2 sub inputs?


It doesn't appear that you have read the manual. The Bit One does not assign a front or rear, etc. designation to its pre-amp inputs. It only assigns numbers (Ch. 1 and 2, 3 and 4, etc.) First, you would only need to use 6 of the Bit One's inputs if you are connecting a multi-channel source. In such a case, all you have to do is make sure you designate the output channels for the specific speaker application you want them to operate. If you use your HU's "Front" output you can, for example connect that to Channels 1 and 2 of the Bit One inputs. You can then designate Ch's 3 and 4 for your "Rear", and Channel 5 for your sub, and if you have a center channel, Channel 6, or the other way around if you prefer. Then when you go through the Bit One's I/O config, you designate the "Front" speakers as Ch 1 and 2 and so forth. You can use whatever combination of Channels you wish, just make sure they are consistent from input to output to make your life easy. But, if as it appears you are using a stereo source, the real question is why you would want to use all of the Bit One's inputs when all you have to do is connect 2 Channels between your HU and the Bit One and designate the intended speaker operation at the Bit One Outputs?


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

Buzzman said:


> The DRC is more than a volume control. It allows you to recall up to 4 pre-sets of different crossover and / or EQ settings so you can easily compare the settings, use the Dynamic EQ feature, etc. Also, and something that everyone seems to overlook, when you use the volume control on your head unit, you vary the output voltage that the Bit One sees if you are using the analog outputs rather than a digital output. Remember, you set up the Bit One to get optimal signal to noise ratio by setting your head unit to the volume level that delivers maximum voltage before clipping. If you use your HU's volume control after setting up the Bit One, you will not get the optimal signal to noise ration unless you return it to that volume setting, and you may not wish to listen to music at that level. However, by leaving your HU's volume control at that max level, and utilizing the DRC as your volume control, you take advantage of the higher voltage your HU is sending to the Bit One, no matter the volume at which you listen.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks Buzz...I do appreciate your answering my question. The point of getting the best signal to noise ration during set up and actually messing that up every time you change the volume of the analog source messing that up is enough reason to stick with the DRC as the main volume control. 

The main reason I was trying to avoid using the DRC was 1. esthetics---I didn't want this "box" sitting up off the dash...which would mean more time fiberglassing it into a spot. 2. functionality- if all I was really loosing was dynamic EQ and 4 presets, it was a worthy trade off to keep all audio functions in one unit ( music selection, volume, track select, etc) in the headunit while keeping steering wheel controls. 

my thought was, IF I wasn't using the DRC as the volume control, then I would need to utilize at least 2 pairs of RCAs inputs to the BitOne so that I can easily fade fully forward when by son is in the back seat area. 

if I only used 1 pair of RCA's as you suggest, and IF I wasn't using the DRC as my "controller" then I couldn't fade away from the rear.

It sounds like though, from a signal to noise stand point using the DRC is the way to go. As for changing cross over point and Eq seting..usually when I find the "sweet" spot I rarely go flipping through other settings. But yes duting initial set up..it DEFINTELY would come in handy!


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

Timelessr1 said:


> Thanks Buzz...I do appreciate your answering my question. The point of getting the best signal to noise ration during set up and actually messing that up every time you change the volume of the analog source messing that up is enough reason to stick with the DRC as the main volume control.
> 
> The main reason I was trying to avoid using the DRC was 1. esthetics---I didn't want this "box" sitting up off the dash...which would mean more time fiberglassing it into a spot. 2. functionality- if all I was really loosing was dynamic EQ and 4 presets, it was a worthy trade off to keep all audio functions in one unit ( music selection, volume, track select, etc) in the headunit while keeping steering wheel controls.
> 
> ...


Ultimately, it all comes down to your priorities - convenience or aesthetics might be higher on the list for some than SQ. As far as aesthetics is concerned, I think the DRC looks very refined and high end. 



Timelessr1 said:


> As for changing cross over point and Eq seting..usually when I find the "sweet" spot I rarely go flipping through other settings. But yes duting initial set up..it DEFINTELY would come in handy!


Man, I think finding the "sweet spot" is an ongoing endeavor. I am always finding a sweeter spot the more time I spend listening and evaluating my set-up. And, because I have different settings for my driving position, my "serious listening" position and for when my wife or another passenger is in the car, I find the preset options on the DRC to be a great benefit.


----------



## 69Voltage (Jul 30, 2013)

Buzzman said:


> > Man, I think finding the "sweet spot" is an ongoing endeavor. I am always finding a sweeter spot the more time I spend listening and evaluating my set-up.
> 
> 
> I'm sorry, but I can't imagine you getting any better than the "live stage" you have playing on your dash Don.  I can still picture the jazz band playing up there.
> ...


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

69Voltage said:


> I'm sorry, but I can't imagine you getting any better than the "live stage" you have playing on your dash Don.  I can still picture the jazz band playing up there.


Thanks for your kind words Mike. I am glad you enjoyed the demo. But, after a few months of leaving things alone, I spent some time late last night doing some critical listening and tweaking. I will leave it to you to determine at the next demo I give you whether I have improved that sense of realism you talk about.


----------



## rockin (Sep 13, 2012)

I should have posted an update on this sooner. Got to speak with a tech on the phone and he recommended grounding the RCA - that kind of worked, but I never could get totally silent operation. He put me on the right track, though, and a G.L.I. did the trick. Really happy with the DSP and the responsiveness and support of Elettromedia.


----------



## YellowC4S (Nov 25, 2008)

I'm about to be on my third BitOne. If this one doesn't work it will either be PS8 or H800 for me.


----------



## val69 (Apr 7, 2011)

I'm thinking about purchasing a bitone to replace my MS-8. Do I need a RTA or o-scope to install bitone? I was told that I would and I don't understand why.


Thanks!


----------



## jtaudioacc (Apr 6, 2010)

YellowC4S said:


> I'm about to be on my third BitOne. If this one doesn't work it will either be PS8 or H800 for me.


what kind of issues?


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

val69 said:


> I'm thinking about purchasing a bitone to replace my MS-8. Do I need a RTA or o-scope to install bitone? I was told that I would and I don't understand why.
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Absolutely no RTA or Scope needed to INSTALL the BitOne. Just read the manual and run with it.


----------



## luisc202 (Oct 29, 2013)

Buzzman said:


> Absolutely no RTA or Scope needed to INSTALL the BitOne. Just read the manual and run with it.


Buzz,

Thanks for your valuable input in this thread. I started with a new stereo in my Tundra and went nuts buying amps, speakers, etc.. I just purchased a BitOne after hearing a car with one. That car sounded amazing and made me buy one. I cannot wait to receive it but am confused on the install as I also have 6 inputs coming out of my head unit. I have Image Dynamics in Front and rear running passive crossovers so I am confused on how to install it.


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

luisc202 said:


> Buzz,
> 
> Thanks for your valuable input in this thread. I started with a new stereo in my Tundra and went nuts buying amps, speakers, etc.. I just purchased a BitOne after hearing a car with one. That car sounded amazing and made me buy one. I cannot wait to receive it but am confused on the install as I also have 6 inputs coming out of my head unit. I have Image Dynamics in Front and rear running passive crossovers so I am confused on how to install it.


Luis, you should run just 2 outputs from your head unit into the Bit One (Ch. 1 and Ch. 2). To make the set up easy, plan on using Ch. 1 as your left channel and Ch. 2 as your right channel. So, make sure the left output from your HU is connected to the Ch. 1 input of the Bit One, etc. Next use the outputs from your Bit One to connect to the amps operating your speakers. With the Bit One, you can run a fully active system. However, since you have a front and rear set-up, and are likely using a sub, there are not sufficient outputs from the Bit One for you to do so. Therefore, you will have to use at least one speaker set-up with the passive crossover in place. I recommend you do that for the rear speakers, and run the fronts fully active. So, this is what you do: you will use 7 or 8 outputs from the Bit One: Channels 1 and 2 for your front tweeters, 3 and 4 for your front midbasses, 5 and 6 for your rear speakers. To ensure proper polarity throughout your system, keep the odd number channels as your "left" channel, and the even number channels as your "right" channel. If you are using a sub, connect Ch. 7 to your sub amp if it's a mono amp, or Ch. 7 to the left channel, and Ch. 8 to the right channel if it's a stereo amp you will bridge to mono. 

The next step is to configure the Bit One through the I/O configuration. When you get to the "Set Available Speakers" portion of the configuration, you will see 3 speakers for the front. Select the tweeter at top and the midbass at the bottom. For the rear, select both speakers. If you are using a sub, select the middle image if you are using a mono amp, or "L" and "R" if you are using a stereo amp bridged. The next step in the set-up will allow you to set the passive crossover configuration. Just check the boxes for both sets of rear speakers. The next step in the set-up process will ask you to assign the output channels. You will select Ch. 1 for the left front tweeter, Ch. 2 for the right front tweeter, Ch. 3 for the left front midbass, Ch. 4 for the right front midbass, Ch. 5 for the left rear, and Ch.6 for the right rear. You will likely have to adjust the channel or channels assigned for your sub to either Ch. 7 or Ch. 7 and 8 if you are using a stereo amp. You will skip the next step which is assigning channels for Audison AC Link if you are not using Audison amps with that feature, and then you will have completed the set up. Since you will be using passive crossovers in the , rear when you set your time alignment in the DSP screen, set the distance based on the location of your midbass speakers, NOT the tweeters. When you select crossover frequencies for your respective speakers, you will select high pass for the front tweeters, bandpass for the front midbasses, high pass for the rear speakers, based on the frequency you determine is best suited for your midbasses, and low pass for your sub. 

Good luck!


----------



## YellowC4S (Nov 25, 2008)

I would disagree with the above post. I would run front and rear from your HU to the BitOne. That way you have fader control from your HU. You are going to have to decide how you want your system configured. The BitOne has 8 inputs and 8 outputs. If you are going to run all of your speakers passive then that is your 8 channels and you will have to use a LOC for the sub and use the X-over/and EQ on your sub amp. Another way would be to run your fronts active and your rears passive which will still leave 2 outputs on the BitOne for your sub/s. If you are running active be sure and check the frequency response of your drivers, especially the tweeters. Look at the manufacturers specs and find the FS of the tweeter and then double that frequency which would give you the x-over point for the tweets then set your midbass accordingly. Also, I would suggest checking to see if a shop in your area has a BitTune which will automatically set your EQ, TA, etc. Hope this helps.


----------



## UNFORGIVEN (Sep 25, 2010)

Buzzman said:


> .


Hey, I know you're getting sick and tired of repeating yourself but I have a question. Unfortunately, I have all 6 prep outs from the head unit into the bit one because that's how I initially ran the rcas and never thought to disconnect them. Is this effecting my sound quality in a negative way (such as inducing more noise from the extra inputs?) 

If so do you think it would be beneficial to go back and disconnect everything but inputs 1+2 like what you suggested.


----------



## subterFUSE (Sep 21, 2009)

I think the overall system design and the head unit's output signal really should dictate how many inputs to use on the BitOne. Each system will be different.

If you are running the BitOne with High Level inputs taken directly from the car's OEM amplifier, you might need to use all of the inputs. Take my old car as an example:

When I first purchased my BitOne, I had a 2005 BMW 545i with the Logic7 stereo. We did not want to change the head unit because of the iDrive integration. The Logic7 amplifier had the following outputs:

Front Left Tweet
Front Right Tweet
Front Left Mid
Front Right Mid
Front Left Sub
Front Right Sub
Center Channel
Rear Left Door
Rear Right Door
Rear Left Parcel
Rear Right Parcel


When the audio shop installed the BitOne initially, they only used the front outputs from the Logic7 amplifier. Their explanation was exactly the same as being mentioned here: "The BitOne sums the signal, so you don't need all of those inputs." Of course, this makes some sense... But there was a critical flaw with this reasoning, as I discovered.

My BMW had parking sensors like many cars have today. The parking sensors gave audible beeps to signal the proximity to objects around the vehicle, and those sounds were directional. If an object was behind the car, the beeps came from behind the driver. If in front, the beeps came from the front.

When we installed the BitOne, however, my car lost the beeps from the rear of the car. The front beeps worked fine, but we lost the backup signals.

Obviously, what was happening was that the parking beeps were played through the OEM Logic7 stereo system, and the OEM amplifier was directing the signal to specific speakers based on the proximity sensors in the bumpers. Since we did not hook up the rear outputs from the amp to the BitOne, we were not capturing the rear parking sensor beeps.

I had the shop connect the rear outputs from the amp to my BitOne, we ran the Setup Wizard again and I got my parking beeps back.

I learned that with the BitOne you must take into account how your source unit divides the audio signal. It may be necessary to use only 2 inputs, but you also might need all 8. Signal summing is a great feature, but it can't recreate audio information that does not get added to the summing equation in the first place. Hence, my missing rear parking beeps.

If the OP has a head unit with full range signal from the front RCA pre-outs, then he should be fine running just those. But if there is any sort of signal splitting going on, then he should use all of those outputs and allow the BitOne to sum them together.


----------



## luisc202 (Oct 29, 2013)

Buzzman said:


> It's not necessarily a software issue. First make certain that you do in fact have your left channel RCA from the HU connected to the input designated as left when you run the Bit One IOS config. Generally, that will be channel 1 unless you flip them. If so, then you have an incorrect connection between speakers and amps, or between your amps.


Man I just noticed you are on your 3rd one. WTH. I am now scared to plug mine in..lol Mine is on FW 1.50 and it looks like 1.51 is out. Should I upgrade it as reading post upgrading FW's bricks the BitOne.


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

luisc202 said:


> Man I just noticed you are on your 3rd one. WTH. I am now scared to plug mine in..lol Mine is on FW 1.50 and it looks like 1.51 is out. Should I upgrade it as reading post upgrading FW's bricks the BitOne.


The fact I am still using a Bit One means something.  And, there's no need to upgrade the firmware. I learned that the hard way.


----------



## luisc202 (Oct 29, 2013)

Buzzman said:


> The fact I am still using a Bit One means something.  And, there's no need to upgrade the firmware. I learned that the hard way.


I am not updating it and thanks for the information. If it is not broken no need tp try to fix it ..hahaha. I heard a car today with a BitOne 2 JL 10W6V3 and I was sold, so I picked up 2 10W6V3's for my infiniti as well.. What the heck it is only money.


----------



## luisc202 (Oct 29, 2013)

Buzzman said:


> The fact I am still using a Bit One means something.  And, there's no need to upgrade the firmware. I learned that the hard way.


Don,

OK just installed it today and it is at 1.5.1 so I am a happy man. Also had no issues connecting to it and programming it for over 1 hour without issues. with Windows 8.1 This thing is Freaking AWESOME. The sound is freaking Ridiculous. I want one for my Infiniti M35 now..lol

I just need to figure out the TA and Eq part as it has a slew of bands to play with. I cannot stop listening to songs. I look like a nut in my truck in my garage..lol


Thanks for all of your help, you are the man..


----------



## Jcharger13 (Jul 12, 2013)

luisc202 said:


> Don,
> 
> OK just installed it today and it is at 1.5.1 so I am a happy man. Also had no issues connecting to it and programming it for over 1 hour without issues. with Windows 8.1 This thing is Freaking AWESOME. The sound is freaking Ridiculous. I want one for my Infiniti M35 now..lol
> 
> ...


Just wait til you get the TA/EQ set. The bit one is an amazing unit, once I got all that stuff tuned in I was blown away. Be prepared for many tuning sessions. I know I have lots of time in tuning (neighbors prob think I am weird, lol) Was worth it though. Still play around here and there.


----------



## luisc202 (Oct 29, 2013)

Jcharger13 said:


> Just wait til you get the TA/EQ set. The bit one is an amazing unit, once I got all that stuff tuned in I was blown away. Be prepared for many tuning sessions. I know I have lots of time in tuning (neighbors prob think I am weird, lol) Was worth it though. Still play around here and there.


I now want to upgrade my front stage to a 3way component setup like you have. How do oyu have your BitOne setup output wise?


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

luisc202 said:


> Don,
> 
> OK just installed it today and it is at 1.5.1 so I am a happy man. Also had no issues connecting to it and programming it for over 1 hour without issues. with Windows 8.1 This thing is Freaking AWESOME. The sound is freaking Ridiculous. I want one for my Infiniti M35 now..lol
> 
> ...


Luis, that great news. I am glad I was able to help and that all went well. I am also glad your unit had the most recent firmware. This thing is one amazing toy. It will require lots of trial and error to learn how to utilize it best for your system, but the features and sound quality are terrific. I know what you mean about looking like a nut sitting in your car at all hours of the day playing music, etc. I try to keep my garage door closed so my neighbors don't call the cops on me, LOL. Good luck and good listening!


----------



## luisc202 (Oct 29, 2013)

Buzzman said:


> Luis, that great news. I am glad I was able to help and that all went well. I am also glad your unit had the most recent firmware. This thing is one amazing toy. It will require lots of trial and error to learn how to utilize it best for your system, but the features and sound quality are terrific. I know what you mean about looking like a nut sitting in your car at all hours of the day playing music, etc. I try to keep my garage door closed so my neighbors don't call the cops on me, LOL. Good luck and good listening!


Do you know how to hookup a iPad mini with lighting connector to toslink for digital signal? I am trying to figure that out to listen to my Bitone with it.


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

luisc202 said:


> Do you know how to hookup a iPad mini with lighting connector to toslink for digital signal? I am trying to figure that out to listen to my Bitone with it.


Unfortunately, I am not an iPad user and am not familiar with the hardware. I am sure someone on here will be able to assist.


----------



## subterFUSE (Sep 21, 2009)

luisc202 said:


> Do you know how to hookup a iPad mini with lighting connector to toslink for digital signal? I am trying to figure that out to listen to my Bitone with it.


You need the Lightning to USB camera adapter for iPad, and then a USB sound card that has an optical output.


----------



## Jcharger13 (Jul 12, 2013)

luisc202 said:


> I now want to upgrade my front stage to a 3way component setup like you have. How do oyu have your BitOne setup output wise?


I have the outputs 
1&2 tweets
3&4 midrange
5&6 midbass
7 subwoofer

Run 2 x 4 channel amps, one amp for left side & 1 for right., bridged on the midbass.
And a mono sub amp. 

Try playing with the 2 way setup for a little first. I did. 
I had trouble figuring out phasing with the 3way. 3way can be daunting to tune. Figured it out using an RTA. Easier to break in with a 2 way at first, mess with it for a while. If it's not doing it for you then add the midranges. 

Have fun!


----------



## luisc202 (Oct 29, 2013)

Jcharger13 said:


> I have the outputs
> 1&2 tweets
> 3&4 midrange
> 5&6 midbass
> ...


Was just asking as I intend to run a JL HD900/5 for left and another for the right and 2 10W6v3's for subs off the sub channel.


----------



## Jcharger13 (Jul 12, 2013)

Yea. That should work well. 

I use a RCA splitter (Y cable) on each midbass output from the bit one and one for my sub amp. 

I run a jl hd 1200/1 and JL subs. I've been happy with them.


----------



## luisc202 (Oct 29, 2013)

Jcharger13 said:


> Yea. That should work well.
> 
> I use a RCA splitter (Y cable) on each midbass output from the bit one and one for my sub amp.
> 
> I run a jl hd 1200/1 and JL subs. I've been happy with them.


Why do you have to split the signal for the midbass? I just finished rewiring my whole darn truck and am finally setting up the eq and wow it sounds awesome now.


----------



## Jcharger13 (Jul 12, 2013)

Nice. 

I use a splitter on the midbass cause I am running bridged to the midbass. Have 2x 4 channel amps (8 channels) for the front stage but using 6 outputs from the bit one.

How did you setup for the 3way front? I don't know any other way I could do it.


----------



## ripready (Nov 30, 2013)

Anyone know the difference between a Bit One and a Bit One.1? Is it only firmware upgrades or does it physically have different components?

I know there were problems with noise when they first came out. Do they still have problems?


----------



## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

ripready said:


> Anyone know the difference between a Bit One and a Bit One.1? Is it only firmware upgrades or does it physically have different components?
> 
> I know there were problems with noise when they first came out. Do they still have problems?


This has been addressed at length in other threads. If you do a search you will learn all you need to know. But, I will save you some work and suggest you start reading this thread beginning about page 46: 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...-res-56k-go-make-some-coffee-take-nap-46.html


----------



## andreszo (Aug 20, 2013)

Hello guys, I wonder if anyone is having issues by hooking up alpine INA-W910 thru KWE-610A to an Audison Bit One?
I am ready to make some testing but some one told me Audison sfc might be needed.


----------



## dutchman79 (Aug 16, 2010)

Hey guys, Im looking for some info. 

Does the Bit One have any kind of load sensing for factory radios that require a load on the high level signal.

I am working on a 2014 F150 with the Sony MyFord Sync system. This radio from what I've been reading mutes the channels that do not present a load on the system.

Any advise?


----------



## subterFUSE (Sep 21, 2009)

dutchman79 said:


> Hey guys, Im looking for some info.
> 
> Does the Bit One have any kind of load sensing for factory radios that require a load on the high level signal.
> 
> ...



I don't think it does.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

My Bit One is tango-uniform. Lights come on but nobody's home- no audio passes through. I purchased it from another diyma member here, so I'm gonna guess I have no warranty. Any recommendations for repair options?

Thanks


----------

