# 2000 S-10 Blazer, Memphis, Eclipse, USD, Image Dynamics, what I had laying around



## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So I am finally getting around to starting this. By starting I mean posting a build log, because I actually started the build over a month ago but it has been going slow. I figured I needed to get enough pics to have something to post so my build log isn't boring right from the start. I have been putting equipment together for this system for a long time, some stuff is new and some is leftover from previous builds. Here is the list of equipment

Eclipse 7200 MKII
Memphis Belle MCH-600 (1)
Eclipse 8062 6 1/2 Mid (4)
Eclipse 8062 Tweeters (2)
USD Waveguide with not yet chosen drivers (2)
Image Dynamics IDQ-15 D2 V2 (1)

I also have a 30 band Eclipse EQ that I may use if the equalization in the head unit is not enough for the horns.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Started by stripping out the interior and laying down sound deadening. Started with a liquid deadener first to get in all the cracks, this stuff may be more hassle than its worth, it requires extensive masking. It does appear to work to some degree, but does not give the panel enough mass like a normal sheet product does. The spray on will be followed by Raammat then by Ensolite and finally by MLV.


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## tibug (Jan 22, 2011)

Looking good! Lookin forward to more!


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So one of my biggest sources of unwanted noise was the tailgate/midgate whichever is correct. This area sqeaks and rattles like crazy, driving around with no music for a few weeks will teach you where all your noise offenders are quickly. I took the entire tailgate apart, painted in the lizard skin in both the outer and inner skin, I followed this with spray foam between inner and outer skin. I then painted the access panel with lizard skin and even some truck bed liner I had laying around for asthetics. I then put raammat on the back of the access panel and laid ensolite across all the "guts" of the tailgate and put the access panel back on. This made a bit of a sandwich with the ensolite in the middle. After putting everything back together, I still had noise coming from the latch between the tailgate and latch, so I bought a new latch and made some further adjustments, now its perfect.


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

Navy Chief said:


> So one of my biggest sources of unwanted noise was the tailgate/midgate whichever is correct. This area sqeaks and rattles like crazy, driving around with no music for a few weeks will teach you where all your noise offenders are quickly. I took the entire tailgate apart, painted in the lizard skin in both the outer and inner skin, I followed this with spray foam between inner and outer skin. I then painted the access panel with lizard skin and even some truck bed liner I had laying around for asthetics. I then put raammat on the back of the access panel and laid ensolite across all the "guts" of the tailgate and put the access panel back on. This made a bit of a sandwich with the ensolite in the middle. After putting everything back together, I still had noise coming from the latch between the tailgate and latch, so I bought a new latch and made some further adjustments, now its perfect.


My '87 Blazer used to squeak like crazy from the rear gate/latch. Used to drive me crazy. Good to know GM finally fixed that...... :laugh:


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

I don't know if I would say GM fixed it, but more like I convinced it that it would be quiet.


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

Navy Chief said:


> I don't know if I would say GM fixed it, but more like I convinced it that it would be quiet.


Yeah I was being sarcastic. 13+ years with the same problem...come on GM 

Anyway..excited to watch your build (no more dumping by me)


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Here is some more pics, laid down some raammat BXT II. My goal was 75% coverage of all metal, I did not cover the areas that had a factory deadener pad it just seems redundant. The floor has a nice thud to it now, almost sounds more like a piece of wood than it does metal.


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## 9mmmac (Dec 14, 2010)

What were the parameters for your spray job? I've heard 5-6 CFM @ 60-90 PSI for most water based stuff. Is that what you had on tap? What kind of gun? Must be a BIG compressor...


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

I don't know the cfm rate, but I was right around 75 psi. I have a 25 gal compressor, and the gun was from harbor freight I bought it just to do this. It is a popcorn ceiling spray gun, it comes with like a 1 1/2 gallon hopper which worked great, best of all I think is was 10 bucks. I will take some pics tomorrow of the set-up.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Ok so I know this is my own build log but I have a question. Does anyone know where to get an ISO-DIN mounting kit for a GM DIN and 1/2 opening. I can find them in double DIN, but nothing in DIN and 1/2. I know I could make one, but I have enough upcoming fabrication on this project one less thing would be nice. Thanks in advance to anyone who has an answer for this.


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## Mythstery (Jun 8, 2010)

WANT TO SEE MORE!!!!! lol i have a 2003 with pretty much everything i want to put in it already but not really sure what im going to do for the front door pods.. the craptastic plastic pods from the factory have such a weird mounting patern i dont know what to do.


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## screamatamonkey (May 15, 2009)

Navy Chief said:


> Ok so I know this is my own build log but I have a question. Does anyone know where to get an ISO-DIN mounting kit for a GM DIN and 1/2 opening. I can find them in double DIN, but nothing in DIN and 1/2. I know I could make one, but I have enough upcoming fabrication on this project one less thing would be nice. Thanks in advance to anyone who has an answer for this.


Something like this?
In-dash Receiver Kit Fits select 1998-up Chevrolet, GMC, and Isuzu models Chassis sizes S & E at Crutchfield.com

Because if that's what you need, I'm pretty sure that your local Best Buy/AutoZone/custom shop should have a ton of those. The internet will save you a few bucks, but usually you can buy one locally for around $20.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Mythstery said:


> WANT TO SEE MORE!!!!! lol i have a 2003 with pretty much everything i want to put in it already but not really sure what im going to do for the front door pods.. the craptastic plastic pods from the factory have such a weird mounting patern i dont know what to do.


I am building new rings for the doors out of MDF, I used the original plastic mounts as a template. I intend to finish them this weekend so stay tuned for pics.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

screamatamonkey said:


> Something like this?
> In-dash Receiver Kit Fits select 1998-up Chevrolet, GMC, and Isuzu models Chassis sizes S & E at Crutchfield.com
> 
> Because if that's what you need, I'm pretty sure that your local Best Buy/AutoZone/custom shop should have a ton of those. The internet will save you a few bucks, but usually you can buy one locally for around $20.


This is not exactly what I need, in fact it is what I have now. An ISO mount kit allows you to mount the head unit from the back and not use the cage or the head units trim ring. An ISO mount gives a much cleaner look.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Ok as promised pics continue, laid down the ensolite. I got the kind with the sticky back, it seems easier than having to spray glue.


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## Mythstery (Jun 8, 2010)

If you don't mind me asking. How much did you spend on the ensolite. Just wanting to kno to see how much it would cost me.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Work continues on the floor, next step was the MLV. Let me just tell you that this crap is heavy. I bought it from a place in Richmond, Virginia called Acoustical Solutions. The store was very cool, they had all kinds of quieting products, if your in the Virginia or D.C. area it is worth the drive just to save on shipping. If anyone is curious I only paid $95 for a 54" roll by 20ft long, and yes it is 1lb per sq. ft. and yes that means the roll was about 100 lbs. As with the ensolite I had to make some relief cuts to get it to lay properly, but all in all it didn't go to badly.


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## Mythstery (Jun 8, 2010)

That's like really overkill for me. I would love to hear a blazer with all that sound dead though. Most of my noise comes from the damn panel squeaking.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

that looks great but with my two door. i had to take the MLV off the wheels because i couldn't get the panels to sit correctly. The extra inch was too much for the panels to get back.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Mythstery said:


> That's like really overkill for me. I would love to hear a blazer with all that sound dead though. Most of my noise comes from the damn panel squeaking.


I know all about the panels sqeaking, its the only noise I have left. I intend to line the back of all the panels with deadener and if that doesn't work I have non-hardening clay to put on the back side to add more density.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

MTopper said:


> that looks great but with my two door. i had to take the MLV off the wheels because i couldn't get the panels to sit correctly. The extra inch was too much for the panels to get back.


I was able to get the carpet back in over the MLV, the relief cuts made a bif difference. I will be posting pics of the carpet reinstalled later.


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## Mythstery (Jun 8, 2010)

how much $ so far in just your sound deadening?


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## screamatamonkey (May 15, 2009)

Navy Chief said:


> This is not exactly what I need, in fact it is what I have now. An ISO mount kit allows you to mount the head unit from the back and not use the cage or the head units trim ring. An ISO mount gives a much cleaner look.


Duh, my bad!

I totally read over the "ISO mount" part


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Mythstery said:


> how much $ so far in just your sound deadening?


This is a bit of a tough question because I bought enough material to do this project and my 79' Chevy K20 Pickup (don't worry its getting a build this summer, all old school equipment). Currently I have $400 invested in sound deadening, but most of my equipment I already had so this is the only real investment for this install. But I would say about $250 to $300 for just this build, but so worth the money so far.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So here are the pics of adding the factory jute padding back in. I put the jute back in an effort to decouple the MLV from the heavy rubber backing on the factory carpet. The jute was originally glued to the back of the carpet, I removed it when I pressure washed the carpet while it was out.


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## SSCustoms (Oct 16, 2008)

Navy Chief said:


> Ok so I know this is my own build log but I have a question. Does anyone know where to get an ISO-DIN mounting kit for a GM DIN and 1/2 opening. I can find them in double DIN, but nothing in DIN and 1/2. I know I could make one, but I have enough upcoming fabrication on this project one less thing would be nice. Thanks in advance to anyone who has an answer for this.


A Metra 99-4644 should give you ISO mounting for your Blazer.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Finally for the first time in almost 2 months I have carpet back in the Blazer. After pressure washing, the carpet looks almost brand new. Also I thought I would let everyone see my little helper, well she helps sometimes.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

SSCustoms said:


> A Metra 99-4644 should give you ISO mounting for your Blazer.


Thanks for the recommendation, I looked at this one and I like it because it has actual tabs to hold the head unit using the threaded inserts of the head unit, but it didn't get great reviews overall. I am also looking at the Scosche GM1855B, which also has an ISO option but I think I need to use the cage because it has no tabs to secure the head unit, however it got great reviews. Here are pics of each kit the top is the Scosche the bottom is the Metra, please feel free to give input on which you think would look and function best.


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## Mythstery (Jun 8, 2010)

I hate you for having that color interior lol! i hate my tan


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## Irishfocus06 (Sep 11, 2008)

Awesome job bud! Not to many people go all out on a Blazer with sound deadening! 

I spent about 300 dollars on my focus and ran out after I got to floor, lol! A mix of fatmat (I know) and Second Skin damplifier and worked great! I still need to do floor and roof though. 

That is just sound deadening material in sqft.....I have yet to do any MLV or anything else. 

Impressed!


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## SSCustoms (Oct 16, 2008)

Navy Chief said:


> Thanks for the recommendation, I looked at this one and I like it because it has actual tabs to hold the head unit using the threaded inserts of the head unit, but it didn't get great reviews overall. I am also looking at the Scosche GM1855B, which also has an ISO option but I think I need to use the cage because it has no tabs to secure the head unit, however it got great reviews. Here are pics of each kit the top is the Scosche the bottom is the Metra, please feel free to give input on which you think would look and function best.


When you say ISO do you mean flush mounted, or mounted without using the DIN sleeve? I have always referred to mounting without using the sleeve as ISO, which the 99-4644 will allow you to do. 

If you would like to mount the radio flush with the front of the install kit, a Metra 99-3300 will do that. It is the Metra equivalent to the Scosche GM1855B. The DIN sleeve is needed with these.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

SSCustoms said:


> When you say ISO do you mean flush mounted, or mounted without using the DIN sleeve? I have always referred to mounting without using the sleeve as ISO, which the 99-4644 will allow you to do.
> 
> If you would like to mount the radio flush with the front of the install kit, a Metra 99-3300 will do that. It is the Metra equivalent to the Scosche GM1855B. The DIN sleeve is needed with these.


Yes I want to mount it without the sleeve. Ultimately I am most concerned with the overall look, I don't want to use the trim ring I want it flush mounted from behind. I am leaning towards the Metra 4644 at this point because it does not require the cage, I think some of the bad reviews were from some rather unintelligent people who couldn't figure out all the parts.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Alright so I have posted a bunch of boring pics of sound deadener so far. So lets focus on whats important here, the gear. I am not ready to put it in just yet, however I am ready to show it to you. Also it helps if you see the Blazer itself, its not perfect put its paid for. It's lowered 5 inches, and yes those are corvette wheels sitting on 275-40-17 BFG KDWS. The exterior is far from done, however the end goal is to create something that when you see it, you have to ask yourself if GM built it that way or not, overall a factory looking sport truck.










The head unit, an eclipse 7200 MKII



















The amp, just one for now, a memphis baby belle MCH-600. 55x4 plus 400x1










The midbass, (4) eclipse 8062 6.75 in. made by Vifa. This is the 3rd vehicle I have installed them in, I love their sound. 



















The sub, just one of these also. Image Dynamics Dual 2 ohm IDQ-15 V2. I will be running this at 1 ohm to maximize power from the sub channel on the amp.



















Finally the horns, classic USD waveguides. They still have the original piezo drivers in them, however will probably get replaced by a pair of Selenium DH-200E drivers.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Its cold and rainy here today so I thought I would work on some of the wiring. All wires and cables in this build will be soldered together and Tech-flexed with the ends closed off with heat shrink. For the harness from the head unit I removed all extra wires not required for this build, I am not even sure why my 7200 MKII even has speaker wires it has no head unit power.


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## knifedag007 (Mar 14, 2011)

looks good, i need to go back and clean up the wiring behind my head unit like that


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Next was the speaker wires, I used Monster Cable 12awg speaker wire. I went through about 125ft of speaker wire for this buld, a pair of runs each to the front horns, front tweeters, front mids and rear mids. The rear mids break out of the harness early to go to the factory rear locations in the rear quarters. I color coded each wire with heat shrink, each wire will go to a terminal strip near the amp to allow changes in configuration without having to go to each speaker, I got this idea from REQs VW. Also I ran the remote turn on wire with the speaker wire.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Ok now for the RCAs, to maximize head unit outputs I ran three sets, one each for low, mid and high frequencies. I also ran these in Tech-flex with heat srink on the ends. I used heat shrink on the barrels of each pair to color code them so I can easily identify each pair in the front with each pair in the back. I used Tsunami because well as the build title says its what I had lying around.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So to be honest some of this is out of order, I actually did most of the work on the speaker wires and RCAs last week, I am just finally getting around to posting it. If any one is paying attention you will notice that I posted the pics of the carpet already being back in so you will realize that I already ran the speaker wires and RCAs. I ran the cables down the passenger side in the factory cable channel that is not being used, I used self sticking cable tie anchors to keep everything in place. I would say everything looks factory, however I think its probably a bit nicer in my opinion. The area in the rear where everything ends is where the factory jack used to be, it is where the barrier strips are going to go for the speaker wires, it is also where the amp will eventually reside.


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## EEB (Jul 21, 2008)

Nice build so far. Good to see another Blazer on here.

Did the MLV make a big difference?


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## bigbubba (Mar 23, 2011)

Nice job so far. I think I like seeing install pics more than finished pics. Can't wait to see more.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

EEB said:


> Nice build so far. Good to see another Blazer on here.
> 
> Did the MLV make a big difference?


Well I can't say if it was just the MLV or not but let me just tell you that driving for the last week its feels so solid inside. I think for the price I paid and the ease of install the MLV has proven itself well worth it.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So I thought I would give everyone a little preview of what I intend to do. My goal is full stealth, I intend to do this by building the subwoofer box to mimic the original spare tire. I found a picture of a similar arrangement using 3 eights, however I will be running a single fifteen instead. Also I have a picture of what the original spare tire looks like, its huge by the way. The plans for the amp are to mount it behind the original spare tire rack in place of the original jack cover. I intend to glass a panel into and on the original jack cover and then use quick disconnects to make it removable because all the other connections will be underneath where the original jack was.


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

Navy Chief said:


> So I thought I would give everyone a little preview of what I intend to do. My goal is full stealth, I intend to do this by building the subwoofer box to mimic the original spare tire. I found a picture of a similar arrangement using 3 eights, however I will be running a single fifteen instead. Also I have a picture of what the original spare tire looks like, its huge by the way. The plans for the amp are to mount it behind the original spare tire rack in place of the original jack cover. I intend to glass a panel into and on the original jack cover and then use quick disconnects to make it removable because all the other connections will be underneath where the original jack was.


I like this a LOT. I built a box like this back in '95 or '96 for my Blazer. Mine never was that good but overall i was satisfied with it.


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## EEB (Jul 21, 2008)

Navy Chief said:


> Well I can't say if it was just the MLV or not but let me just tell you that driving for the last week its feels so solid inside. I think for the price I paid and the ease of install the MLV has proven itself well worth it.


Good to hear. On my last install I put sound deadner in and once I ever get around to doing the new install I plan on putting MLV in when I pull up the carpet again.


I like the idea of the sub box to look like the spare tire. My spare tire is under the back. I also want a stealth install and have figured out what I'm going to do with most of it but the sub.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

spare tire box looks like a great idea. i hate having mine back there. your truck looks great btw. really impressed by the outside of it


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Just a weekend update, here's my update it's freakin cold here. So because it's cold I decided to just work in the garage for a few hours and build the baffles for the front door and rear quarter mids. In both cases I copied the factory baffle, the front was for a 6 1/2 and the rear I believe was a 5 x 7. The factory baffle in the door wasn't a bad design, that's why I am copying it, but it's flimsy. The rears are done with the exception of paint, the fronts are still not deep enough. Both sets will have countersunk treads to allow me to use machine screws for mounting, you can see them in the rears. This is all I have for now, maybe next weekend the weather will support more work.


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## nittanylion64 (Oct 3, 2007)

If anyone has access to the old CA and E issues there was a Typhoon in there with a "spare" tire sub. I think the guy used MDF, soaked it in water then bent/curved it to the size of the spare. He also stitched a tread pattern into the leather. I think he used a 10 inch JL sub. Looked pretty sweet. Maybe someone can scan it and post.


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## knifedag007 (Mar 14, 2011)

nittanylion64 said:


> If anyone has access to the old CA and E issues there was a Typhoon in there with a "spare" tire sub. I think the guy used MDF, soaked it in water then bent/curved it to the size of the spare. He also stitched a tread pattern into the leather. I think he used a 10 inch JL sub. Looked pretty sweet. Maybe someone can scan it and post.


thats crazy attention to detail


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

nittanylion64 said:


> If anyone has access to the old CA and E issues there was a Typhoon in there with a "spare" tire sub. I think the guy used MDF, soaked it in water then bent/curved it to the size of the spare. He also stitched a tread pattern into the leather. I think he used a 10 inch JL sub. Looked pretty sweet. Maybe someone can scan it and post.


Its funny that you mention that article, thats where I got this idea from. I do not have the article however, it was a mid 90s CA&E. It was a black Typhoon and I remember he lived in the Pacific Northwest. I do not intend to go into the same level of detail finishing the "tire", probably just finish it in spray on truck be liner. The goal is to be able to use a factory looking carpeted cover, and just remove the cover when I want to show.


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## 9mmmac (Dec 14, 2010)

What size are those threaded inserts in the new speaker mounting brackets? I'm guessing 6-32... That's a very nice touch. Did you use a drill press with that?


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

9mmmac said:


> What size are those threaded inserts in the new speaker mounting brackets? I'm guessing 6-32... That's a very nice touch. Did you use a drill press with that?


No drill press, just a cordless drill a tape mark and a keen eye. I think they are 8/32 but I'll check the bag it's out in the garage and it's ridiculously cold out. I got them at Woodcrafters on Military Highway in the JANAF shopping center, they have a lot of very cool castanets there, and some cool tools also.


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## Mythstery (Jun 8, 2010)

How do you plan on attatching the front baffles? and are you going to need to cut out the factory grill area to add some extra room?


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## nittanylion64 (Oct 3, 2007)

Navy Chief said:


> Its funny that you mention that article, thats where I got this idea from. I do not have the article however, it was a mid 90s CA&E. It was a black Typhoon and I remember he lived in the Pacific Northwest. I do not intend to go into the same level of detail finishing the "tire", probably just finish it in spray on truck be liner. The goal is to be able to use a factory looking carpeted cover, and just remove the cover when I want to show.


It's amazing what I can remember-a specific install from a magazine from the mid 90's and I can barely remember what day I got married on!!! Using more modern build techniques I am going to guess that your "spare tire" might turn out a little better. I can't imagine what soaking that MDF in water did to its integrity. Good luck and I can't wait to see the results.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Mythstery said:


> How do you plan on attatching the front baffles? and are you going to need to cut out the factory grill area to add some extra room?


I plan on bolting the front and rear baffles directly using as close to the factory holes as possible. If they don't contour perfectly to the sheetmetal I will have to fill any gaps with a sealant of some kind. Because my baffles mimic the factory shape I expect them to fit behind the factory grill, and if they don't I will fix them because building new grilles is not in the plan.


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## 9mmmac (Dec 14, 2010)

Navy Chief said:


> No drill press, just a cordless drill a tape mark and a keen eye. I think they are 8/32 but I'll check the bag it's out in the garage and it's ridiculously cold out. I got them at Woodcrafters on Military Highway in the JANAF shopping center, they have a lot of very cool castanets there, and some cool tools also.


Ah, I know where that is. Always been afraid to step foot in there- too many shiny things that will jump out at me and beg me to take them home. Order a free catalog from a joint called McFeeleys.com. They have a LOT of cool stuff as well. Nice eye, BTW. I'd probably be crooked as a dog's hind leg and wind up drilling my knee or something...

Oh! And it's a nice day today! Get something done!


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

nittanylion64 said:


> It's amazing what I can remember-a specific install from a magazine from the mid 90's and I can barely remember what day I got married on!!! Using more modern build techniques I am going to guess that your "spare tire" might turn out a little better. I can't imagine what soaking that MDF in water did to its integrity. Good luck and I can't wait to see the results.


I got into car audio in about 92ish when I was 14, that is when I started reading magazines at least. I started working at PJs in Erie, PA as the shop lackey when I turned 16 and went to my first finals in 94 or 95, I remember riding with Tyrone Chestnut down there and I got stuck driving one of the company trucks home. I loved getting exposure to all those great cars back then and learning what a good system was supposed to sound like. I joined the Navy in 97, because I realized that I wanted to get out of that town, and I never looked back. As far as the construction of the box, I have a few ideas such as fiberglass, kerf cuts and multiple rings, not really sure which one. I found the below article as a potential idea but requires lots of wood.


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## SSCustoms (Oct 16, 2008)

I have made a round box like the one shown in the article. It ended up being placed in a spare tire well. They are easy to make and the customer was happy!


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Ok so I took some measurements and the factory spare is 27" in diameter, and the tires currently on the Blazer are just over 24" in diameter. In my eyes 24" is perfect because I can get eight 24" discs out of 1 full sheet of MDF. By my calculations I would need to cut twelve 24" discs which includes a full back and recessed front, which is a sheet and half of MDF. With 12 rings I get a "tire" with a total width of 9" just short of the actual width of the current tires which is about 10.5". If I made the thickness of each center ring 1", plenty stout in my opinion, that would net me an internal volume of 1.65 cu. ft. The required sealed spec for my IDQ-15 is 1.55 cu. ft., damn near perfect. Additionally this box design lets me create swappable baffles for different drivers so I can experiment later.


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## Yankeesound (Jul 11, 2009)

Wow, great build so far. Your attention to detail in the wiring/deadning is awesome. Great job man


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## helosquid (Jan 7, 2008)

Have you ever considered using sonotube? I am not sure if it would work for your application, but it seems to be fairly common as an enclosure for the home audio sub guys and is available in 24 inch diameter.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

helosquid said:


> Have you ever considered using sonotube? I am not sure if it would work for your application, but it seems to be fairly common as an enclosure for the home audio sub guys and is available in 24 inch diameter.


I have seen discussion about the sonotube, but don't you have to buy like a 4ft piece or can I buy just 1ft. Also is the sonotube strong enough by itself or does it have to be strengthened with fiberglass.


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## danssoslow (Nov 28, 2006)

I imagine it can withstand a ton of pressure, seeings it is a concrete mold; so I'd assume glassing wouldn't be necessary. Addressing the edges to resist absorbing moisture or fraying might be necessary.


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## SSCustoms (Oct 16, 2008)

Navy Chief said:


> I have seen discussion about the sonotube, but don't you have to buy like a 4ft piece or can I buy just 1ft. Also is the sonotube strong enough by itself or does it have to be strengthened with fiberglass.


A quick Google search showed that most places required buying it in 12ft sticks. I wonder if a call to a concrete contractor might result in getting a hold of some scraps left over from a job?


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

SSCustoms said:


> A quick Google search showed that most places required buying it in 12ft sticks. I wonder if a call to a concrete contractor might result in getting a hold of some scraps left over from a job?


So I called a local concrete supplier today and they have both 24" and 30" diameter in stock, and the minimum length purchase is only 2 ft. Best of all they are only just over $15 a foot, so guess where I am spending $30 tomorrow.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Navy Chief said:


> So I called a local concrete supplier today and they have both 24" and 30" diameter in stock, and the minimum length purchase is only 2 ft. Best of all they are only just over $15 a foot, so guess where I am spending $30 tomorrow.


So went to my local concrete supply warehouse to get some sonotube, I went to Whitlock Bros. in Norfolk. Sales guy took me back into the warehouse to take some measurements and I told him I really only needed a foot of 24" diameter tube. He points to the corner were there was some damaged left over pieces, crushed ends etc. and says if those will work take whatever you want. Needless to say I got a nice 24" diameter piece about 30" long with about 24" of good area in the middle for FREE!


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So progress has been slow, but I thought I would post pics of the piece of sonotube that I got for free last week.

I only intend to use about 10 in of the tube but here you can see proportions in the Blazer, this piece is 24 in.










Here you can see the diameter in comparison to the actual tires on the Blazer, almost perfect match.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

I did got some stuff done this weekend. My goal was to get both rear mids installed as well as finish the dampening in both rear quarter panels, I only got one side finished.

Here is the baffles after paint, I used some truck bed liner paint I had laying around to seal up the MDF.










Laid out some more BXT II on the bare metal and on the back of the plastic rear panels.










So I mounted the the baffles with a bit of a sandwich method. I used #10 allen head screws with lock nuts in the back. Between them are washers on each end with neoprene inserts to isolate them, additionally there are rubber washers between the baffles and the metal body panel.




























Here is the mounted picture










Speaker finally mounted, #8 by 1/2 in allen screws with threaded inserts.


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## Mythstery (Jun 8, 2010)

I saw in another thread someone glued some CEL foam around the baffle then rolled it over go form a seal between the panel and the baffle. Me having a blazer myself know how crappy that rear panel is and plan on doing the same. I will try to find a picture when I get to the computer..


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## Mythstery (Jun 8, 2010)

Post #7 of forthmeals build

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/1276248-post7.html


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Mythstery said:


> Post #7 of forthmeals build
> 
> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/1276248-post7.html


Actually read that thread last night and was already considering doing it.


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## brad0069 (Jun 11, 2009)

I've used sonotube quite a few times for "spare tire" boxes and it works great. I have one in my ramcharger with a pair of 10s and no one ever guesses that it is the sub box. The typhoon that was discussed earlier had 2 jl 15s in an isobaric sealed box. He kerfed the wood to form the outside. It was built at a local shop. I watched it being built. cool rig. I think your blazer is sweet!


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

brad0069 said:


> I've used sonotube quite a few times for "spare tire" boxes and it works great. I have one in my ramcharger with a pair of 10s and no one ever guesses that it is the sub box. The typhoon that was discussed earlier had 2 jl 15s in an isobaric sealed box. He kerfed the wood to form the outside. It was built at a local shop. I watched it being built. cool rig. I think your blazer is sweet!


Thanks for the compliment. Do you happen to have any pictures you can post and or email me of any of the above mentioned installs.


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## iroc2nv (May 15, 2009)

Hey, i have a 2 dr. blazer also. I have 2 Pioneer 251R's subs w/JL e1400D and PG 6.5 RSD comps w/RF 400.2. Your blazer looks great ! Mine is 3.5/4 with Vette sawblades. It's the one in my avatar. Thinking about moving my comp tweeters to the dash or going with a set of 4x6 plates. Blazer looks tits !


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Thanks a lot for the compliments. I have been on hold on this build for a while now, but I am getting back on it tomorrow. I'll be posting updates tomorrow along with a new equipment list.


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## aporozco (Apr 6, 2011)

build looks good. Spare tire box is unique, can't wait to see an update


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Ok, updates for everyone. I lost some direction on this project a few months ago as you can see by the dates. However it is back in the garage and it's not leaving till it's done. I have a loaner truck to drive for now, my friend just left for afganistan and left me his truck for a year.

Ok first thing first, I am not going to do the spare tire subwoofer. I changed my mind for a few reasons but mostly just because I wanted to go bigger. More amps, two subs etc.. So sticking with the what I had laying around plan I have been trading equipment on here over the last month to get what I wanted. Here is the updated equipment list.

Head unit - Eclipse 7200 MKII
EQ - Audiocontrol EQX (traded for Eclipse EQ2102)
Highs amps - 2 Sony ES 3046 (bought these for $150 for the pair)
Sub amp - Memphis 1.1100 (traded this for the MCH-600 Baby Belle)
Tweeters - 2 Eclipse silk domes or a pair of USD Waveguides
Mid bass - 4 Eclipse 8062 6 1/2 (2 front and 2 rear, made by Vifa)
Subs - 2 Image Dynamics IDQ-15V2D2

Inputs are always appreciated, pics to follow in the next few days.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Ok so I finally got some work done today. I thought I would follow up my last post with a pic of the new gear.


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## rsfaze (Sep 29, 2009)

blazers are awesome to build in, so much room!


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Ok so I figured I have to get the doors done first because I am tired of driving around with no door panels. My power window switches have been hanging by the wires for like 2 months now and I have to keep them there so I can put the window down at the gate to show my ID in the morning. 

I lost motivation on the doors initially because after hours of deadening I still had an annoying squeak. I finally changed out my hinge pins last week and that solved the problem, nice and solid now.

So I used the factory plastic "pod" as the design for my baffle. It took me two layers of 3/4" and one layer of 1/2" to match the depth of the original baffle but I am happy with the results.

First 3/4" ring added about to add the second 1/2" ring



















Gluing and clamping everything together, also added a few staples to keep everything in place.










Comparison of mine vs. factory










Drilling out the holes for the threaded inserts










Threaded inserts in









I skipped a few steps, but here is the finished product sprayed with some truck bed liner paint for moisture. Also added some foam gasket to the front and back.



















That's it for know, should be mounting them tomorrow.


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## iroc2nv (May 15, 2009)

Looks good , so far. How do you like the ID subs ?


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

iroc2nv said:


> Looks good , so far. How do you like the ID subs ?


They certainly look nice, but I can't speak to how they sound yet. Hopefully I get them fired up in the next few weeks.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

Lookin good man! Glad to see you got your head back in te game. Sorry i had to move away so suddenly! Keep up the great ****!


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Thanks man. I am glad to see you finally updated your location. Maybe when we both get done we can meet up at some show in the middle. I still have those capacitors for you, pm me your new address and I will send them to you when I get a free moment.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Finally got the new baffles mounted in the doors. Used the same hardware as I did in the rear, allen head screws, fender washers and lock nuts with a rubber washer between the baffle and the door skin. I also added a 1/2 inch nylon between the window track and the door skin to give me a bit of extra clearance behind the magnet. Finally I lined the outer door skin with ensolite behind the mid and along the bottom of the door.

Rubber washer used to uncouple the baffle from the door










Nylon washer used to move the window track back 1/2"










Overall shot of everything mounted










Shot of ensolite behind and small section of the rubber channel I cut back for clearance


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So I don't know how much I will get done this weekend because I have family in town. However I figured I had at least enough time to build a system diagram, that way you can understand whats going on in my old broken head.


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## van johnson112 (Nov 4, 2009)

Your planning is right on point. Great extensive attention to your deadening work. Stoked to see how the sonobox works out.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

great job mark! keep up the commitment to excellence and attention to detail!


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Thanks for all the positive comments, maybe I can get out to the garage today and get some more work done on my doors.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Ok I did get a little bit done today. I did some more work on the doors and worked on closing up all the access panels in the door to better seal everything up. I picked up a piece of 20 ga sheet metal at the local hardware store and cut out the pieces I needed to close up the holes. I finished closing up the biggest hole and cut the pieces for the others.

I lined the hole with foam weatherstripping the hole size is about 8x13.










I cut out a piece about 9x15 to cover the hole and lined the back side with Raammat, nice and dead.










Closed everything up, I am very happy with the results.


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## bigbubba (Mar 23, 2011)

Nice looking job so far Mark. I used to have a set of those ID15 then I updated to the ID 15 Pro's. Nice sounding subs. I recently dug out my set of ID CD1E horns out of the closet and looking to add them to my Mote Carlo. Gonna follow this build.


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## Mythstery (Jun 8, 2010)

any updates?


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Will have some today


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## Mythstery (Jun 8, 2010)

my system is on hold waiting on you and the other blazer here to show some more updates lol


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Ok guys I know I have been slacking big time on this build. So I showed all of you the concept of making a subwoofer box in the shape of a spare tire. I really liked this idea of using the spare tire concept for stealth, but I couldn't find a place for everything else that I liked. So I decided to make an amp rack in the shape of a spare tire that can be covered with a standard spare tire cover. I'll let the pics tell the story.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Also thought I would give you guys a peek at my next project. This is what keeps me busy alot, just got done in the paint booth. System will be all old school, PPI 2350DM running Image Dynamics.


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## iroc2nv (May 15, 2009)

Nice, liking the spare tire thing. Where are you going to mount your sub ?


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

I have some ideas, should have something to show you by the weekend


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## 9mmmac (Dec 14, 2010)

Methinks that amp rack is gonna get HOT- like two rats %^*&$ in a wool sock hot. Any plans to address that issue?

I like the truck. Is it like a gunmetal grey? And did you shoot it yourself? 

Did you ever put power to that Alpine CD unit? Can we see some pics of it lit up?


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## Mythstery (Jun 8, 2010)

How did you cover the window regulater and spring in the doors? did you put mlv in there after the sound deadener?


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## 12voltguy (Oct 5, 2011)

08-08-2011


Navy Chief said:


> I have some ideas, should have something to show you by the weekend


3 moths, what weekend do we get that update???????


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## bigdexxx (Oct 27, 2011)

I just went through all 5 pages, thinking to myself I wonder what this box will look like when he's finished. Well I guess I will have to wait, lol


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Ok, I have been really slacking on closing out this build log, sorry. I will post pics tonight, but in the meantime here is a quick update. The amp rack is done and other than the fact that the finish is a bit rough it works great. I have not had any problems with overheating with the cover on, the amps are rated down to 1 ohm and I am running them at 4 ohm. I finally got my headunit mounted the way I wanted and it looks awesome. I am still undecided on the sub enclosure, I have been running a single IDQ-15 for the last few weeks. I have realized that I do not need that much subwoofer and I want something completely hidden. I am looking at re-building the center console and putting some 8s or a 10 in there. Other than that and chasing a few rattles (mostly the liftgate) I am very happy with how it sounds.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

If you're having issues with your glass chattering, try using some window sealant foam from a hardware store, and trace the original seam. i did this and haven't had a rattle in 3 years


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## bigdexxx (Oct 27, 2011)

Maybe two Sundown Audio SA-8s would be good for this build, how is the system so far?

Was the Rammat, Ensolite, and MLV worth it?


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

lookin forward to it man!!


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