# 2006 Toyota Tundra Double Cab - My Install Log



## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

I'll go ahead and say it now, that this will be a long, drawn out install process, based on a busy family life and work life, so bear with me, but I wanted to get this started now.

System plan is still developing, but slowly finding direction. Head unit to be Clarion DRZ9255, Amplified by Arc Audio FD4150 & FD4100, playing through Pioneer TS-D1720C components up front, and JBL GTO 1002D sub.

Still unsure on all speaker choices, as well as 2 way front with rear fill versus 3 way front with no rear fill.


PROGRESS TO DATE:

Sub box started by cutting sheet metal between seat mounts. Under the drivers side rear seat on the double cab tundra (1st generation tundras 2000-2006) there is a storage bin built into the sheet metal that is made up of the actual floor of the truck and a raised platform the seats sit onto. The bin is about 0.5 Cubic Feet as it is, but when cutting this 12" section out between the seat mounts, you can gain another 0.25 of usable space for roughly 0.75 cubic feet of sealed space, and mounting size for up to 10" sub, and maybe a 12 if you found the right 12.

Shot showing what metal was cut:









Here the metal has been cut, and a fiberglass mold has been laid. The fiberglass is being marked for cutting:









Here is the mold removed from the truck:









A shop is building this box for me since I've really not the time nor facility to learn the glass work right now. I don't have tabs on their progress yet, other than they have trimmed the box and are preparing to cap with MDF. They also did some color matching of the carpet for the top board.

In the mean time, over memorial day weekend, I did the first phase of the install myself which was to apply raammat and ensolite to the floor of the truck. I gutted the entire floor and side panels to allow access. Here is half of the interior, which I separated to the appropriate side of the truck as I removed it. I also placed small parts into ziplock bags and labeled with a sharpie pen. Lastly, any panel or part that was large was marked with sharpie pen on the back side as to where it went, even down to the smallest detail, like the left and right caps that went onto seat brackets, to make sure they went back to the same spot:









It took me 13 hours to pull the interior, label it, apply raammat in 2 to 5 layers across bottom of floor, then apply 1 layer of ensolite, and put the interior back together. Here are various shots of the inside of the truck during that process:








I circled all the bolt holes with a sharpie pen to make sure I saw them when applying the raammat and so that I didn't accidentally cover one.

















































Not pictured as my hands just got too sticky to keep touching the camera, are the completed floor and wire routing which included 3 runs of 12 guage knukonceptz wire up each side for active powering of front speakers, as well as 4 two channel knukonceptz krystal 4 meter RCA's and an Arc Audio Bass Knob Wire run right down the middle of the truck. 

So basically, I've got speaker wire running up each side, low level signal right down the middle, and Power and Ground will run underneath down the top of the frame rail and up through the rear floor via a gromet.

This is as far as I've gotten to date. 

FUTURE PHASES TO COMPLETE:
1.) Amp Mounting Board for rear wall & finish deadning rear wall
2.) Front Door Deadning, sealing & speaker mounting
3.) Rear Door Deadning & Sealing
4.) Head Unit Install
5.) Power & Ground Wire Routing under truck
6.) Fire it up and start tuning

THINGS LEARNED SO FAR:
1.) When working with butyl based deadner, store it indoors before use and it will be less sticky.
2.) Do deadning in the morning while the temperature is lower, to avoid stickyness.
3.) Apply aluminum based tape to all seams in your deadner for a cleaner install with less chance of tracking the butyl to your interior.
4.) Goo Gone, followed by GoJo, seems to be most effective at removing the butyl from your hands.
5.) Spraying Oxyclean pretreat onto your clothes before washing seems to be most effective at removing the butyl from your clothes.


I'll post more pics as I complete future phases.

Regards and thanks for looking.


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## turbotuli (Jan 30, 2008)

Nice start! You're definitely approaching things the right way


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## wu501 (Dec 5, 2007)

looks like a nice start so far.

and goo-gone ftw...I too have used it as hand cleaner in the past


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## suka4thong (May 14, 2008)

wow nice~


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Thanks for the comments. It's been a slow process so far as I rarely get any time to work on it, but I'm pleased with what I've done so far. As soon as I can track down my second amp, I'll begin looking at how to mount them in the rear, and also will focus on finishing that rear wall and power wiring, so that I'll be left with doors and headunit.

I'm waiting on someone to send me pics on what may be my second amp though, so we will see as soon as I get some pics of it.


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## customtronic (Jul 7, 2007)

It looks like a good start. I'm looking forward to seeing this build. I've been considering selling my Navigator and replacing it with a Tundra. Good luck with the install.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

customtronic said:


> It looks like a good start. I might be a little worried about cutting that metal out for the sub enclosure. It looked like a structural piece to me. I could be wrong though.


Thats what I thought too at first, but I've put as much force as I can apply to it and it seems to be holding strong. My other thought was to come back and put a brace back in on the ends to cap and replicate what was removed.

I'm playing it by ear, but so far I don't think it's going anywhere as there is still boxed metal under each bracket.


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## Rockin'Z28 (Sep 26, 2007)

Very nice start. I have a 2006 Tundra Double Cab also. I paid to have a complete system put in by a local shop, and they did a very nice job. I had 2 - 8" Kicker Comps put into that storage well because I didn't want to cut any metal. They did cut out the bracket between the storage under the left-hand and right-hand rear seats. Then sealed the storage area where the jack was stored under the passenger side rear seat, so I have one large chamber. I moved the jack under the hood and the tools under the passenger front seat.

I don't want to hijack your thread, but if you'd like to see it, I could post a pic of the subs and of the amp board mounting on the rear wall. I'm using a Directed Electronics 5-ch amp to run the entire system. Might give you some ideas, but like I said, I won't dump in your thread unless you want to see it.

Great start!! Keep up the good work.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

I don't mind as long as it's not against any sort of silly forum rule. Whole reason I started my log here was to share information to help out the next person doing a DC Tundra install, so the more pics and information shared the better in my opinion.

Regards.



Rockin'Z28 said:


> Very nice start. I have a 2006 Tundra Double Cab also. I paid to have a complete system put in by a local shop, and they did a very nice job. I had 2 - 8" Kicker Comps put into that storage well because I didn't want to cut any metal. They did cut out the bracket between the storage under the left-hand and right-hand rear seats. Then sealed the storage area where the jack was stored under the passenger side rear seat, so I have one large chamber. I moved the jack under the hood and the tools under the passenger front seat.
> 
> I don't want to hijack your thread, but if you'd like to see it, I could post a pic of the subs and of the amp board mounting on the rear wall. I'm using a Directed Electronics 5-ch amp to run the entire system. Might give you some ideas, but like I said, I won't dump in your thread unless you want to see it.
> 
> Great start!! Keep up the good work.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

*Install Update - 06/24/08*

Just a quick update showing some pics of my almost finished sub box. It has roughly 5" of mounting depth I think, but have not given it a test of my JBL GTO 1002D yet as I just picked it up tonight. The carpet color is not a perfect match by any means, but I told them to just use what they had since it would not be seen under the seat and since it kept the cost down. Cutout is for 10" sub and space should be around 0.75 cubic feet, but I plan to measure it at some point.




























Also took a few snaps of my recovered ebay wonder dvd headrests. $270 shipped, then recovered to match. Each unit has 7" screen and dvd player built in. Also has small speaker capable of enough sound for my kid to hear movies. Direct replacement for stock headrests.



















More to follow as I progress.  Thanks for looking.


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## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

Lookin good!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

capnxtreme said:


> Lookin good!


Told you I was still pushing forward. Just moving slow. :blush:


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

A little more progress to report, but no pictures unfortunately as the weather prevented it.

Manged to get the following items tackled this weekend:
1.) 800prs harness soldered and heatshrinked to the metra harness adapter. 
2.) 800prs cage installed into the metra double din adapter kit
3.) JBL GTO 1002D sub installed into custom fiberglass box. Wiring is run through the side of the box into another storage compartment, for a stealth wiring setup. Sub is wired in series as 4 ohm load. Added just under 1/2 of a 1 pound bag of acousta stuff loosely into the box, then mounted speaker with 8 stainless screws.

On the sub, I had to take a rubber mallet to one of the steel spring supports running under my rear seat for clearance, but with about 1/4 inch of adjustment, the speaker fits perfectly now. 

Will be doing more work over 4th weekend as I'm taking 5 days vacation with holiday and weekend.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

*07-05-08 Install Update & Pics*

Didn't get a ton of work done as I was sick the first 2 days of my Holiday time off. Did manage to get my fuse block mounted, and my 4 guage kicker hyperflex power wire covered in techflex and run.

Fuse block mounted about 12 inches from battery:









4 gauge wire run through existing firewall gromet:









Not much to see, but other side of firewall:










Pulled out all my speaker wiring to cover with techflex and reinstall. Still have that sitting here to reinstall tomorrow morning, but have it covered and ready to go. No pics of it.


Got my amp mounting board prepared, and ready to be covered with carpet. It will sit on top of my second storage compartment under the rear seat and will suspend the alpine pdx5 below it. The board isn't pretty, and it's an old pine shelf board, but no need to worry as it will be hidden under the seat and covered in carpet.

Pic of amp board with paint drying:









Shot of newly mounted JBL GTO 1002D in the box pictured in thread above, as well as second storage bin that will hold PDX5 amp:









Last shot for now, is PDX5 getting prepped to hang below panel via 1/4 inch bolts:










More to follow later as my slow project progresses. 

Thanks for looking.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

*07-06-08 - Install Update*

Managed to get a few more items done today before heading home from a 5 day vacation.

Took a few moments to add a third layer of raammat and a layer of ensolite to the rear window access panel today. I had already put 2 layers of raammat and 1 layer of ensolite on the inside:










Then, to sandwich against this, I glued another layer of ensolite on the inside of the rear trim panel:










Got my newly techflexed speaker wire reinstalled and did some wire routing back to the rear storage compartment that will hold the amp. Opened up two existing holes in the metal by cutting away the previously applied raammat, and then trimmed with some aluminum tape to keep the stick stuff at bay:


















Also routed my knukonceptz krystal rca's into the other access hole:










An idea of what's to come with carpet back in place, and all wire routing hidden. Also rear trim panel is installed:










In order to mount a fuse block and ground block, but keep the fuses in reach, I cut a 5"x8" hole in the rear trim. Inside this, I mounted a small wood block to the rear wall via 3 stainless steel screws. I've fashioned a 2" thick wood block, that isn't pictured, that will then screw into the pictured wood block. It will be wrapped in matching vinyl, and the fuse and ground blocks will be mounted on top of it. It will fill the hole, but still allow removal of the rear trim panel without removing any wiring parts:
















(Yes, I know the block is crooked, but it doesn't matter as it will be covered. Also, the hole in the trim looks crooked, but it really isn't. Just looks like it in the picture for some reason due to the contours and curves.)


To follow at a future date:

NEXT PHASE TASK LIST
-Amp board and fuse block board wrapped in matching vinyl
-knukonceptz krystal rca cables cut to length and resoldered
-Amp mounted to wrapped board, installed and connected to wiring
-fuse block board mounted, and distro blocks wired
-connect power wiring to fuse block & battery (will leave out fuse until ready to go)

FUTURE PHASE TASK LIST
-deaden rear doors
-deaden front doors & mount mids/tweets
-plug & play mount head unit as it's ready to go
-enjoy system








So, for all those members that ragged me when I was throwing in the towel, I hope I get some feedback and comments on my progress to date. It's slow going, but as I promised, I'm still pushing forward.


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## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

What members would do that???

Awesome progress!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

capnxtreme said:


> What members would do that???
> 
> Awesome progress!


hehehehe........... step right up and be identified. 

I so want this install to make even more progress, but I guess the slow pace is giving me time to think my way through it and hopefully make good decisions on where I'm putting everything.


Just noticed that those last two pics clearly show my first lesson learned of not to sit the roll of raammat directly on the carpet. Still haven't cleaned it, but am sort of waiting until I'm finished and then will give the whole carpet and interior a good detail and cleaning.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

*07-07-08 Install Update*

finished up my amp rack tonight. I glued on a layer of ensolite padding on top, then wrapped the whole thing in a matching vinyl. The bolts holding the amp in place are counter sunk and installed prior to wrapping so they remain hidden.

Shot of rack on the floor in the house from the top:









Shot from the side:









And from the bottom:











Shot of the compartment under the seat that this will sit in:









And a test fit showing how it will look:









You can see the intentional gap around the amp and the board to allow heat to come out from inside the compartment. It is only about an 1/8 of an inch all the way around, but should provide more than enough convection cooling combined with the fact that the center of the board is open and exposing the amp heat sink.

Next will be to trim out the plastic panel on the bottom of the seat to allow heat to escape from under the seat, and then the amp is ready to go into place.

Thanks for looking and Comments welcome.


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## twista17 (Jun 5, 2007)

nice progress and i don't think its that slow 

its looking good and i like the placement of the sub and the amps!

good luck with the project and i can't wait to see more pics!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

twista17 said:


> nice progress and i don't think its that slow
> 
> its looking good and i like the placement of the sub and the amps!
> 
> good luck with the project and i can't wait to see more pics!



Thanks.

I'm thinking about recovering the sub box top board with the same vinyl as the amp rack, if I have enough left over. Do you guys think that would look more consistent than the "non matching" grey carpet, or should I try to find matching carpet?

I think I'll have enough vinyl left over from the yard I bought yesterday. Wasted a little bit on the amp rack, as I had to cover it twice to get it right. First go round I cut the interior too close and the interior corners ripped and looked awful. Took a second try to get it like it is now.

Figured if the amp rack board, fuse block mounting board, and sub were all in same vinyl as the video headrests, it would at least tie it all together......

Thoughts?


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## kimokalihi (May 27, 2007)

I vote find matching carpet and use it on both the amp rack and the sub enclosure.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Anyone know where to find the matching carpet?


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

While I wouldn't exactly call this progress, I started out trying to realize the vision from my head in the form of actual wood. Sometimes easier said than done without a proper shop, which I don't have.

Currently trying to decide if I should try to salvage what I've started, or scrap it and start over.

I started with two 1" thick blocks of wood that had been cut to fit a hole on my back wall trim, and had been sized to allow the wood to just exceed the surface level of the wall by about 1/4 inch. This would allow it to hide the cut edges of the trim and allows the rear wall trim to slip on and off over this block.

Before, while trying to do some markings:









After some mutilation with the router, a few mistaken cuts, and a accidental split out of the wood:

























Spot on rear wall where this will be mounted:

















The whole thing was to be wrapped in matching vinyl, which I realize is not going to be an easy task. The purpose of this design was to allow the block to be mounted on the rear wall, behind the seats in easy reach. The wood block design was to allow the edges to extend beyond the cut edges of the trim to seal the hole sort of speak, and the fuse block would sit slightly recessed in the wood, but still allowing access to the plastic tabs that allow removal of the clear plastic cover. Further, wires were to go down and out of the small slits so that you don't see where the wires are coming from, but only see where they are actually plugging into the block.

At this point, I'm not sure what to do. It needs lots of sanding and wood filler to make it look nice, and I need to find some way to fix the broken strip at bottom (I have one of the pieces that broke out, but not the whole thing).

I'm thinking either a combination of wood filler, wood putty, or maybe even a bondo material. 

What does the forum think? Would coating it with resin be an option? And if so, is sanding just resin wthout the cloth still dangerous and require respirator/mask?

Any thoughts are helpful as I've got to figure out what way to go at this point, but the wood edges are thin and definately could use some strengthening before I try to wrap any vinyl at this point. Thanks for looking.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

I think you should perfect the mounting and then repeat the process and THEN ship the worst one to me!! It looks great and I like what you have done with the box and amps. did you ever consider mounting the amp under a plexi panel and provide forced air cooling? This would be to better protect the amp and cosmetics as well.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

slvrtsunami said:


> I think you should perfect the mounting and then repeat the process and THEN ship the worst one to me!! It looks great and I like what you have done with the box and amps. did you ever consider mounting the amp under a plexi panel and provide forced air cooling? This would be to better protect the amp and cosmetics as well.


Thank you!

hehehe........ Given the short amount of free time I have to work on this stuff, and the amount of effort I've put into this block so far, I think I'm going to do my best to salvage it.

Just got back from a trip to home depot where I've come back armed with a can of wood putty, a plastic putty tool, a small can of fiberglass resin and tube of hardner, a new container of wood glue, two pieces of 3" wide by 1/4" thick poplar board, and finally a brand new rigid 5 gallon wet/dry shop vac that hangs on the garage wall. 

The intention with the supplies is use the wood putty to smooth the work I've done so far and to fill the gaps. Use the 1/4" poplar to fill the holes and recreate the back panel that I shouldn't have cut out. Then use the resin to coat the entire block to strengthen the thin edges and water proof it.

Lastly, after it all cures and dries for a week or two, I'll come back and paint flat black certain areas, and vinyl cover the front visible areas.

Wish me luck, because I really don't know if it will work or not, but since I'm covering it, I have some flexibility to fix it.


The shop vac was one of those, I've been wanting one, and it was on sale buys. It's the type you hang in the garage, with a 21 foot hose to reach all over, but also can come down and be portable. On sale online for $69 or instore for $79 at home depot right now.

PS - regarding the plexi panel, if I were going to have the seat up much, I'd consider it, but it is such a ***** to get a car seat out of the back seat, that other than to work on the install, the seat never comes up. One day down the road, if I still have the truck when the kids are older, then maybe I'll go back and worry about it then.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

ok, I can understand that....so, when your done, THEN you'll send it to me?! 

J/K. i can appreciate the effort and time it takes to do something like that. It's funny, it doesn't look that hard when you first start with it!! 

Lets see some pics after work is finished.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

slvrtsunami said:


> ok, I can understand that....so, when your done, THEN you'll send it to me?!
> 
> J/K. i can appreciate the effort and time it takes to do something like that. It's funny, it doesn't look that hard when you first start with it!!
> 
> Lets see some pics after work is finished.


Yeah, in my head this was going to be a piece of cake. Figured I'd knock it out in no time. It actually started out well. I routed out my pattern in the top block with ease. It was when I flipped it over to route out the back side of the top block that the trouble began. First the piece you can see in the picture split out. The split left one large chunk that was easy to glue back on, but the remainder of about 1 inch of wood turned to dust. So, I'll have to rebuild that somehow. Also, the top edges nicked in a few places that have to be rebuilt from putty.

So, after splitting out the top block, I went on to mess up the lower block also. My router bit was not deep enough to reach all the way through the block, so it required routing the front first, then flipping and doing the back. Well, the lower block should only have been routed from the front, as I truly needed to leave it solid on the back so that you can't see through it into the rear wall.

The 1/4" poplar I picked up yesterday will be used to make some inserts to replace the pieces I mistakenly routed out. So, more cutting, glue and putty for that. But, after some putty work and some time with the sand paper, it should look just like I wanted when I started. Maybe not stain quality, but fine for paint and vinyl. I'm still going to paint it with resin for strength, but I'm happy with the salvage progress so far.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

*Progress Update - August 2nd, 2008*

Decided to scrap the fuse block mount made and pictured earlier. I started over and so far am pleased with the result.

Old on left, and new on right










Old one test fit on rear wall










New one being test fit on rear wall










New one after painting with fiberglass resin










New one testing fuse block mount location









Not pictured yet is the fact that I painted the block with flat black paint after painting with the fiberglass resin. The fiberglass resin was to add strength to the wood. The black paint is to make items less noticible.

Let to do is cover part of the edges with matching vinyl and mount and connect all of the wires. Will add more pics as I do more.

Regards and thanks for looking.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

so much work for such a good looking little piece! Shame to paint it black and be incognito.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

slvrtsunami said:


> so much work for such a good looking little piece! Shame to paint it black and be incognito.


hehehe. Yeah, well, it aint as good looking in person. Pieces of wood split, the resin bubled and needs sanding, etc. But, since it is gonna be burried and only the top rim and a few spots will be visible, I didn't wate time sanding the resin, and I simply shot a few extra nails into the split areas rather than rebuilding those pieces. Glue and a brad nailer and life is good. Coated it with resin not to be pretty, but to add strength to the thin areas. Didn't coat the back, so it's not even to make it waterproof, but the spot it's mounted is not in an area that is really exposed to elements.

So, it's already painted with some flat black high temp paint, as that was what was on hand. Used same stuff on the little amp rack board before covering it with vinyl. I've got to figure out how best to trim this out with vinyl on the edges so that it looks nice, and then it's time to start putting it all together. It should look nice once it's trimmed out and flushed into that rear wall.

Still want the old one? I'll send it to you if you pay shipping. LOL Otherwise, it is going in the trash.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

Thanks for the offer, I ended up going a different route.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

*Install Log update - 08/30/08*

Spent about 7 hours today doing install work. I'm totally wiped out, and am more tired today than when I pulled the entire interior to deaden the floor of my truck.

In my 7 hours, all I managed to get accomplished was the passenger side front door. I forgot to take my camera with me, but did have my cell phone, so sorry for the crappy pics. Promise some better ones tomorrow when I tackle the drivers door.

Accomplished today on Passenger side front door

-Deadened exterior skin with 1 to 2 layers of raammat
-applied 4 layers of ensolite behind midbass mounting location
- Cut and attached lexan panels over 3 access holes on door
- Cut 3/4" hdpe midbass baffle board and mounted speaker
- applied 1 layer of ensolite to back of door card skin










Used clear silicone to seal the lexan panels, and then used pop rivets to snug them down and hold them in place. I wanted to make sure it was fairly easy to get back into the access holes, so I'd just have to drill the rivets and pry the panel off the silicone to get in. Less of a nightmare than trying to remove layers of deadner and goo in my opinion, although probably not quite as effective.



























The speaker baffles made out of 3/4" hdpe with a spacer from the 720prs mids attached.




















It's hard to believe it took me 7 hours to do just this, but the hard parts were all in this one task. Getting the speaker wire through the door gromet, getting the lexan cut to fit over the hole, getting the speaker baffles made, etc.

The good thing about tomorrow is that I made a template for the other door once I got the lexan sized to fit, so I just need to cut those pieces out tommorow and attach them. The speaker baffle is already made for the other door and ready to go, which saves some time too. 

Only broke two tabs on pieces, but they didn't seem to be critical items. Learned how to get those off on the other door hopefully without damage.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

*My Install Log - Update 2 - 08/30/08*

Also snapped some pics of my tweeter location and bits and pieces. I'm thinking I may try to use the stock location for the tweets. Here are pics of the stock sail panel, and the stock tweeter with bracket. My goal would be to cut the bracket off the stock tweeter to glue my tweets to, as they are already angled to be fairly on axis.















































Does this look like a good option for the Alpine SPX17Pro Tweets or Seas Neo Tweets? Or am I going to be better off trying to build pods? I like this because it looks stock.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Guess I should have said somewhere in the posts I was looking for opinions on the tweeter pods, but also welcome comments, tips and advice on my install overall. Thanks.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

Have you heard either of them? I have heard good things from both. I would stay stock, as for me I like the factory stealth look. Besides you can always build pods later if you want! Can you use the factory bracket? How is it angled?


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

slvrtsunami said:


> Have you heard either of them? I have heard good things from both. I would stay stock, as for me I like the factory stealth look. Besides you can always build pods later if you want! Can you use the factory bracket? How is it angled?


Haven't heard any of the system or speakers yet. I got the second door done today. Took me 6 hours. Thought I would have significant time savings having done one yesterday, but only managed to knock an hour off my time from yesterday.

Tweeter mounting still has to be done. I'm going to get a few more items done tomorrow, but I'm having my doubts that I'll have it playing before this weekend is over. It is most likely going to be next week before it's going.

Still to do:
Tweeter mounts/install
Fuse block mount & hook up
Fuse holder mounting & hook up
Amp hookups
Pull rcas from under center console and route to dash
cut rca's to length and resolder ends back onto them
Install head unit
connect amp power wire
listen, tune and enjoy. 

Pics from today to follow in a while.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

I think that is a fair assessment. Better to do it right the first time and enjoy. Measure twice, cut once.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Forgot to mention that the tweeter mounts are angled. Not sure how much, but probably about 45 degrees each. They won't be quite on axis, but will be much closer than flush mounting tweets into the door obviously.

I'm wondering which of the alpine tweets and seas neos will be better given the angle of these brackets?

I have to try to get the stock tweets off first though. They screwed them on in a bed of expoxy. The screw head is drowning in epoxy. LOL

I'm going to try to drill out the screw head and then see if I can pop the tweeter off with a screw driver. We will see how it works.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

*My Install Log - Update 08/31/08 - Lots of large pics*

As promised, I took some better photo's with the dslr today while doing my drivers front door. Hopefully I'll get some feedback this time after doing all the pics to share. Enjoy and thanks for looking.



Here is a shot of the stock speakers I took out of the doors:









When you take the door card/skin off, here is what you find:









After removing the plastic vapor barrier:









View inside the door of the rubber boot/grommet:









And, rubber boot/grommet between door and kick panel area of truck:









Luckily, the wiring for my doors has an easy disconnect, so I was able to pull the rubber boot/grommet out to make it easier to run my two 12 guage speaker wires through:









4 guage power wire in blue techflex and the two 12 gauge speaker wires crossing into the kickpanel at a 90 degree angle:









Pulling the speaker wires through the boot/grommet:









Speaker wires run into door. Wrapped with some ensolite to prevent vibrating:









Another view inside door, but now with speaker wire run:


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

*My Install Log - Update Part 2 - 08/31/08 - Lots of Pics*

Here are the rest of the pics from today:



One to two layers of raammat on exterior door. 3 to 4 layers behind midwoofer:









Tweeter wire run up to top of door, and lexan panel cover over the hole in door. Used a layer of silicone and then used aluminum pop rivets to hold the lexan down:









Lexan panel over another door hole. Again, silicone and pop rivets:









HDPE speaker baffle and Pioneer 720PRS spacer. Silicone applied, then bolted with stainless screws, washers and nuts. Silicone applied to threads to keep nuts from vibrating loose:









Last lexan panel over the large hole in door. Silicone and pop rivets again:









Raammat applied to inside door. I had to do it in a million small pieces. They overlap and they cover as much of the door as possible, but I left the bolts and other access points uncovered in case the door needs work one day. I have 2 to 6 layers in spots. All of the seams are covered with aluminum tape to keep the sticky stuff at bay:









Pioneer TS-C720PRS mounted:









Left myself a little short on the tweeter wire, so I had to solder and heat shrink in a small piece:









Also seamed up the techflex and applied some heatshrink over the joint:










And finally, the door buttoned back up with the tweeter wire waiting for the tweets to get mounted in the sails:


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

Nice progression of pics, I want those baffles...


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

drewpage55 said:


> Nice progression of pics, I want those baffles...


Thanks. They were fairly easy to make. I bought the 3/4" hdpe (starboard) off of ebay. There are a few sellers with tons of various sized pieces. Mine was something like 11 x 24 x 3/4 or something like that. Price was $26 shipped with most of that being shipping.

Got it here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350081109391

But they sell it at westmarine and boatus and the like.

It was easy to cut with a simple jig/scroll saw. It is pretty tough on saw blades, and required a bit of power, so a more powerful saw is a plus also.

Other than that, it was simple to make them. Regareds.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

*My Install Log - Update 09/01/08*

Well, I don't have the pics yet as I didn't get a chance to post them, but I put in about 8 hours again on Monday working on wiring. I managed to get the fuse holder under the hood mounted and ready to simply attach the wire to the battery when I'm ready to apply power. Got the fuse block on the rear wall mounted with all connections made. And, got the amp wiring all put into place with all connections made. Everything was going so nice, and after so many long hours I was so relieved to be almost finished with these tasks.

Then, my worst nightmare happened. I went to put the amp rack board onto the storage compartment, and it doesn't fit with the connections attached to the amp. The speaker connections and the rca's protrude too far to fit as they hit the sloped edge of the compartment. I ran out of time and didn't get to play with it much to see what I can do at this point. I'll have to revisit this part of the install on my next available install day.

Second problem I ran into is that my fuse block on the rear wall hits the back of the seat. The maxi fuses stick out too far and get caught on the seat. I'll have to scrap the fuse block and try to find an AGU version of teh same block to make it work as it has a flush cover unlike the maxi fuse version.

Needless to say, it was very disheartening to have been so close and to know I've got to go back and redo or make changes at this point.

After these two items get corrected though, remaining items to do are simply install tweeters and then shorten my RCA cables and install headunit.

Progress and a step or two back, but I'm still slowly moving forward. Pics to follow tonight.

Thanks for looking.


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## glidn (Apr 21, 2007)

nice work, do not beat yourself up to much, this kind of things happens more often than you think. I like your detailed write ups and info provided. Keep up the good work bud.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

glidn said:


> nice work, do not beat yourself up to much, this kind of things happens more often than you think. I like your detailed write ups and info provided. Keep up the good work bud.


Thanks. Here are the pics from yesterday. 


Shot of under rear seats before getting started:









The way the amp should sit:









Freshly sanded and tested grounding spot, as well as test fitting the rack I made to mount my fuse block onto:









The next few are of installing the fuse block and it's mounting spot. Not the best job in the world, but I'm reasonably happy with how it turned out:

























Next I turned my focus to the amp wiring. Had to pull the rca's a little further towards the head unit as I had too much slack on the amp end. I'm going to have to shorten them, but didn't want to have to shorten both ends, so I pulled the extra and rolled it up under the console for next install date:


















Next, I focused on getting all the wiring attached to the amp. I trimmed everything to length and made sure all my wires were heat shrinked and techflexed. 

I had an extra rca cable run, so I turned it into my amp remote wire from the headunit to my turn on amp relay. If you look closely, you can see it running into a techflex loom with other wires that go to a socket to hold the relay. Basically, I figured since the rca cables had multiple shielding running through, it would help prevent noise problems from having the turn on wire run with the rcas. Maybe crazy and maybe overkill, but that's my theory. The cable had four 22 gauge wires, that were twisted into one wire. Also, you will notice that I didn't techflex the rca's. They were the only wiring I didn't techflex, but their jacket was such that I didn't feel they needed it.










And, it's hard to see it here, but this is as far down as the amp rack will go. The wall underneath the wiring is sloped, and the wiring hits it. This is the reason I'll have to redesign the amp rack. Otherwise I'd have been in the home stretch:













So, I'll be redesigning the amp rack. I have a few ideas, but have to get measurements and do some test fitting. Also, I've sold the streetwires block pictured, and ordered it's sister which is almost identical but uses AGU type fuses. The benefit is the layout is the same so my rack works and the wiring stays the same, but the fuses fit under the plastic cover and don't protrude, so that it shouldn't catch on the seat like the maxi fuses do.

Thanks for looking and I appreciate any comments or feedback. Regards.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

I look at it like two steps forward, one back. Net result is one step forward. I have to comment on the quality of the pictures, very nice and well lit and detailed. If I had to guess, I would say you are at LEAST a serious amateur, if not pro. Other than that, I like how the fuse block turned out. I know it sticks out too much, oh well. Keep it up, your closer than you think


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

slvrtsunami said:


> I look at it like two steps forward, one back. Net result is one step forward. I have to comment on the quality of the pictures, very nice and well lit and detailed. If I had to guess, I would say you are at LEAST a serious amateur, if not pro. Other than that, I like how the fuse block turned out. I know it sticks out too much, oh well. Keep it up, your closer than you think


Thanks. The encouragement helps me stay focused on getting it finished. I'm glad I'm taking my time and not just throwing it in. Less chance I'll want ot rip it out and start over this way. 

The fuse block problem is getting fixed. This one is going out tomorrow to it's new owner, and I ordered the AGU version of the same fuse block that should ship to me tomorrow. It looks identical, but the fuses don't protrude through the cover, which means the seat can slide by it without snagging on the fuses.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

*Re: My Install Log - Update 2 - 08/30/08*

No new pics, but in reference to this previous post from the 30th, last night I managed to drill out the screw and get the stock tweeters off of their brackets. I cleaned the brackets up and now have them ready to go to try mounting my tweeter options inside my sail panels.

My immediate plan will be to put some quick disconnects on the tweeter wiring and on each set of tweeters, that way I can swap them back and fourth to see what sounds best.

I'll have to search for the best quick disconnect options when the wires are different sized, but I'm thinking something like bullet connectors.




txbonds said:


> Also snapped some pics of my tweeter location and bits and pieces. I'm thinking I may try to use the stock location for the tweets. Here are pics of the stock sail panel, and the stock tweeter with bracket. My goal would be to cut the bracket off the stock tweeter to glue my tweets to, as they are already angled to be fairly on axis.


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## NoKz (Jul 30, 2008)

From someone with an 05 DC, let's speed this up! It looks good so far.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

NoKz said:


> From someone with an 05 DC, let's speed this up! It looks good so far.




LOL........... Thanks. It shouldn't be too much longer. I'm in the home stretch now.

I'm really close to being ready to mount one of my sets of tweets, so that should get done one night this week hopefully. And, I've tracked down and ordered the replacement fuse block, and should have it in 3 to 5 days.

I think I have a game plan for changing the amp up a little to make it fit, but will have to redo the amp rack to make it work. I'm going to try to salvage what I've started with though if possible, otherwise I'll make something new.

Then just get the headunit and rca's done and we are off and running.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Another minor update, but no pictures. I went by radio shack last night and picked up a few packages of male/female spade terminals. Got the style with the hard plastic cover over the terminal. Found some in 10-12 gauge size for my knukonceptz 12 gauge speaker wire running to my tweeter location. Also picked up some 14-16 and 18-22 guage packs for the wire running to the tweeter. When I'm able, I'll solder on larger wire, but some tweets come with wiring pre attached.

The purpose of this is that I'm going to trim my 12 gauge tweeter wire and it's techflex loom down to just where it is coming out of the door skin at the tweeter sail location. I'll heat shrink the techflex back at that spot, and then crimp on two of the spades and wire tie this to an existing factory wire. Then, I can swap tweeters in and out to experiment with minimal efforts. 

Once I narrow down my perfect tweeter, I'll most likely cut the spades out and solder a hard wire direct to the tweet.

Last part of this before getting the tweets in there is that I'm taking one of my seas neo's to the hard ware store today to pick up the appropriate screws to use in the back of them. They didn't come with them and I don't know the thread size, so it will be some trial and error to find some to get them mounted on my brackets. I'm going to try the seas first I think.


Lastly, I picked up a trio of new 40 amp relays. I had some older 30 amp relays in my box of junk, but the mounting tab had be cut off and after all the hard work I've done on this install so far, I want to have the relays mounted nicely to a panel when I'm done, so I picked up new ones with the tab intact. This will cover amp turn on, as well as one each for each of my rear headrest dvd players.

Cheers.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Another brief update. Got the tweeter wires trimmed down and some quick disconnect spade terminals crimped on. Not a major advancement, but was on the to do list. Also picked up some M4 allen head machine screws that fit into the seas neos for mounting them to the tweeter bracket.

Also, decided rather than to rebuild the amp rack, or to try to manipulate the amp mounting location further (read beat the crap out of the storage compartment with a mallet to try to get more space) I've sold the pdx-5, and have replaced it with a couple of arc mini's.

I'm contemplating relocating them to the rear wall and forgoing the storage bin, but will wait to get them in hand before deciding. Have a 125.4 and 125.2 on the way. Not sure how they will compare to the pdx-5, since they are not digital and since they are rated at less power, but still they are more than enough to power my system and they will open some mounting location options.

More to follow.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

I will be real curios as to how the ARC mini's work out.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

You and me both. I never should have gotten rid of the two mini's I had when I started out building a system earlier this year, so I feel pretty good heading in this direction again.


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## crux131 (Feb 27, 2007)

Looks great, keep it up.


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## moosejuice (Oct 5, 2007)

It is looking great but get this thing powered up all ready.....

B-


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

In order to attach my tweeters to my brackets, I just epoxied a screw onto the back of each. These are the Alpine SPX17PRO tweeters. They are drying now. I just used general purpose 5 minute epoxy. My Seas Neo Textile tweeters have a threaded insert on the back, so no modification needed on them.




















The bonus is that while looking for screws, I managed to dig through stuff that has been in storage since we moved almost 2 years ago. I guess I had forgotten I had this stuff, and quite honestly don't remember when or why I bought it, but here was my cool find.


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## 00poop6x (Jan 20, 2007)

Can't wait to see the MINI's in there


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Well, had a little bit of another set back today. Planned to get my tweets installed, and all was going well. Got screws glued onto the back of them in the above update, and today all was going well to start with.

Shot of the sail panel with the 12 gauge wire trimmed, and temporarily terminated while I decide on permanent tweets:









Some shots of the tweeter on the bracket just before install:

























And the unfortunate set back, when test fitting the sail panel and just before snapping a pic of the tweeter on the braket when in place, the epoxy gave way and the tweeter fell off the screw.

Switched out and tried the other tweeter thinking I'd get one done while the other was getting repaired, and the same thing happened, so basically I need a new way to attach these tweets or a better epoxy than permatex perma poxy 5 minute general epoxy. It stuck to the screws very well, but not to the tweet. Was thinking of trying again with more epoxy to get in between the ridges on back of the tweet:


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Well, another try on the tweeter mounts.

To clean the screw heads down to bare metal:









To clean the back of the tweeter of epoxy, and it turns out that under the grey color, there is also bare metal:









The cleaned screw and bare metal on back of tweeter:









Metal epoxy:









And lastly, the ugliest tweeter backs in the world, but hopefully they hold this time:


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Well, time to go to plan D. LOL 

The epoxy seems to be holding so far, but now that the epoxy held I was able to test fit and because of the size of the tweeter versus teh stock tweeter and the angle of the bracket, the tweeter hits the sail panel and it is about 1/2 to 3/4 inches from fitting properly. Not sure if there is an alternative, but I'm thinking I'm going to have to look at doing some sail fabrication at this point.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

00poop6x said:


> Can't wait to see the MINI's in there




Thanks man. Hope you guys are boarding up for next week. Not looking too good for you, but we on the other hand are looking like we will dodge the bullet this time.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Got a little time today to work on the install. Spent a good 6 or 7 hours on it today. Not finished, and not sure I'm happy, but made some progress.

Started with removing the rear wall skin:









Removed rear window access cover:









Got my piece of 1/2" black hdpe mounted on the rear wall access cover. Had to use 3 pieces of the hdpe as a spacer, as the rear wall has a hump in it that covers the rear window motor.









Got the amps test mounted, and yes I do realize the hdpe board isn't level. 









I removed the pocket that was molded into the wall so that the wall would fit over the amps. Not sure I like them where they are as the seat backs lightly touch the amps, so I might still lower them to the bottom of the hdpe where there is more clearance.

































Had to reroute all the wiring, which meant extending the speaker wires to reach the new spot, and also pulling the rca's further back. All the wiring had been done to go to the storage bin visible, as I had planned to mount the pdx-5 amp there but it didn't fit when all was done.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

One last shot before cleaning up for the day. Got the new streetwires fuse block in that uses AGU fuses and has a flat cover, so it will still fit my mounting spot and it allows the seat to open/close. You can see in this shot just how close the rear seats come to the rear wall. The plastic interior wall will still fit over the amps and behind the seat, but as it stands, the edges of the amps will hit the seat material. 










Had planned to finish power wire and turn on wire tomorrow, and then on to connect head unit and tweeters, but I think I may go back and lower the amps further on the hdpe to give them more air clearance from the seat backs.

I'll have to come back and trim the rear wall skin at some point once I get the amps situation so that you can access the amp settings for tuning. Not sure if I'll just cut the plastic out in front of the amps or what. That's what I'm currently thinking for ease just to enlarge the hole already there.

Please give me your thoughts and feedback. Thanks.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

based on what I saw in the pictures. I really dont think it is necessary to lower the amps. I think any lower and you dont see enough of them. My .02. I am really curious about the sond quality of those little suckers, and also if they can be 'dynamic'.


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## circa40 (Jan 20, 2008)

Good progress.

With all that room you could have gone with the full sized versions LOL  I think the amps location are fine as well. take a picture with the seats reinstalled.

I own a Toyota myself and when I first got the car I installed tweeters in the snails. I just used hot glue and the factory grill helped holding it in place. It did the job for me, but I'm pretty sure your Tundra isn't the same.

Edit: i noticed that the Alpine tweeters are concave in the back. Well it looks like the hot glue might not work. Although if the screw fails and falls off you can leave the epoxy and use that as the base for the hot glue (more contact area)


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

slvrtsunami said:


> based on what I saw in the pictures. I really dont think it is necessary to lower the amps. I think any lower and you dont see enough of them. My .02. I am really curious about the sond quality of those little suckers, and also if they can be 'dynamic'.


Well, I'm going to trim away the rear wall in front of the amps I think. That way I can get to the access panels, but another option is just to lower them into the pocket so that they are completely recessed below the surface, and then cut an access hole over each amps control panel. 

I'm going to think about it tonight, and decide in the morning. As simple as it looks, lowering them just those few inches will be a ***** and a lot of work.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

circa40 said:


> Good progress.
> 
> With all that room you could have gone with the full sized versions LOL  I think the amps location are fine as well. take a picture with the seats reinstalled.
> 
> ...



Thanks. My sails have brackets inside and that's what I'm going to use. The metal epoxy is holding well on the alpine tweets, so I can attach them to the brackets with the epoxied screws. Will just have to cut the pod off the sail and build a new one of some sort.

As for the amps, see above, but I"m thinking of lowering them just because I'm being freaky about worrying they will get too hot touching the seat material. 99% of the time I have a car seat strapped in that seat, so I can't easily fold it down once everything is installed. 

Not sure how hot these get, but rather go ahead and be safe than sorry I think. As you get lower, the space betwen the rear seat and that wall goes up to about 2 or 3 inches. Up where the amp is, it's minimal.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

circa40 said:


> Good progress.
> 
> With all that room you could have gone with the full sized versions LOL  I think the amps location are fine as well. take a picture with the seats reinstalled.



Forgot to comment on the "full sized amps". I flipped back and fourth on this numerous times. I tried to avoid mounting amps back here like the plague. I have been trying to keep everything as stock as possible, and to keep everything so that acess is still easily available for repairs. Putting a pdx-5 under the other rear seat would have been ideal because it wouldn't have blocked anything. 

On the rear wall, if I ever have to have the rear window worked on or a part replaced, it will be a pain in the ass to get in there as I'll have to remove the entire amp rack and what not before work could be done. Thats the reason I didn't want to actually mount anything on the plastic rear wall skin. The way I ended up doing it, the amp rack is bolted to the access panel, so I'd have to simply disconnect the wires and pull the whole amp rack and amps with the access panel.

Anyway, space wise, You could do it with full size amps, but not in the way I wanted to.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Good morning. Thought about this overnight, and while I'm still thinking I want to lower the amps, I'm going to do some investigation first to see how much touching the seats are doing. 

I'm cutting it close on getting my RCA's to reach the way they are, since I added more distance to the run over the storage compartment they were going to be in. The layout I'm using eventually change though, as I'm contemplating adding the 500.1 when it comes out. If I do, the 125.2 would go over to the right where that last smaller pocket is. The 500.1 would then take the location of the 125.2. If I end up going this route, I'd have to probably make a short RCA extension to get over from the 125.4 to the 125.2 for the tweeter signal cable. I probably should have started out with this layout to make adding a 500.1 easier, but I didn't have enough black hdpe to cover all spots, and I didn't have the rca's on hand, plus I don't know if I'll add the 500.1 or not, so the current setup is what I did.

Sorry for the ramble, just morning thoughts after yesterday's work. Have a good one.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Another update from today's work, September 14. 

To set the stage, here are shots of where the amps were mounted yesterday and how they are touching the rear of the seats. Hard to photograph, but you get the idea hopefully from these 5 shots:











































Here is a shot showing how much I was able to lower them without doing any major changes. 









Shot showing test fit of rear wall to give a height change perspective:









Forgot to show this yesterday, but I put a nut behind each mouting tab to space the amps slightly off the hdpe for air flow and convection:









Both amps lowered and wire connection processed started again:


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Part two of update from September 14.

Shot showing location of amp turn on relay. used a 40 amp relay with a relay socket wired to the fuse block for power & ground. Used an extra rca cable for the wire to the head unit, and then wired in one 12 volt leads to run to each amp. All tech flexed and mounted onto the hdpe:









Another test fit of rear wall. Unfortunately while the amps are perfectly lowered, I realized the wall wont snap into place without hitting the amps:

















In order to deal with the rear wall not fitting, I had to trim away the plastic away over the amps. Didn't want to do that as I figured the plastic made a barrier between the amps and seat backs, but with the amps lowered, it should be fine. I plan to get some flat black plastic paint to touch up the trim at the bottom on the inside of the plastic wall so that you don't notice some of mount tabs and what not:









Lastly, shots of the amps behind the seat after lowering them:

























Other than popping in 3 AGU fuses, and doing a little black paint on the visible inside parts of the rear wall, the rear wall is finished I think until time to tune the system.

Next step will be the tweters and head unit, which should be doable in the next install session. Hopefully next weekend.

Again, please share thoughts, tips and feedback. Thanks.


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

Lookin' good man! I bet you're loving those Arcs.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Thanks. From a size standpoint, they are awesome. From a space standpoint, the 1st generation double cab tundras suck. LOL 

I mean, there just isn't any unused space in this truck. It's a wonderful truck. It's a big truck without feeling too big. In fact, I think the new 4 door tacomas are about 9/10's as big as my 06 tundra. LOL

But, the interior has been challenging to find spaces to fit stuff that don't interupt the usage of the truck. You can't easily mount amps under the front seats because there are floor A/C vents back there for rear seat passengers. You can't get much on the rear wall easily because the rear seats basically touch the wall except at the bottom 5 or 6 inches, where there is about 2 inches of space.

Anyway, thanks again, and from a concept standpoint, I love the arc mini's. Haven't had the pleasure of hearing them yet, as I ran out of steam once I got to the point above on the rear wall. It's like 90+ degrees here again in north Florida with very high humidity. Can't take much of that at my age anymore.


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## Bass_freak (Dec 9, 2007)

Sweet build man.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Bass_freak said:


> Sweet build man.


Thanks.


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

txbonds said:


> Thanks. From a size standpoint, they are awesome. From a space standpoint, the 1st generation double cab tundras suck. LOL
> 
> I mean, there just isn't any unused space in this truck. It's a wonderful truck. It's a big truck without feeling too big. In fact, I think the new 4 door tacomas are about 9/10's as big as my 06 tundra. LOL
> 
> ...


The Florida heat is a *****. 

Not sure if you finalized it yet, but did you figure out how you were going to mount the tweets? I know that's next on your to-do list.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

UCF52 said:


> The Florida heat is a *****.
> 
> Not sure if you finalized it yet, but did you figure out how you were going to mount the tweets? I know that's next on your to-do list.



No, not yet. Decided to wait to see what tweets I end up with and what location. I'm going to start with mounting them to the stock brackets inside the sail location, and then compare different locations and tweeters. Once I pin down that, then I'll know what I'm doing.

Not sure what I'm wanting out of the tweeter and if the Seas or Alpine can do it, but I'm thinking I want my tweeter to reach down under 2khz to like the 1.6khz to 1.8khz range. That, or maybe pair the tweet with a small mid divided by a passive network on the tweeter channel of the amp. I've got some small definitive technology satellite speakers that I might experiment with. They would give me an idea of what I might get with the mid/tweet on passive xover would produce with my pioneer prs mids.


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## 00poop6x (Jan 20, 2007)

Loving the progress, Greg. I just want you to power it up and see what you're getting into!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

00poop6x said:


> Loving the progress, Greg. I just want you to power it up and see what you're getting into!


You and me both. I'm down to the wire at this point. Really should be a basic install day for my next phase of plugging in the tweets and attaching to stock bracket, and finishing routing my RCA plugs up behind the dash and popping the head unit in. It's ready to go, just plug everything in and bolt it down. All wiring connections are made, and it's in the mounting bracket.


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## whatfelloff (Sep 9, 2008)

Great job makes me want to jump on my yota.


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## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

It's really coming together!  Those amps look badass.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

capnxtreme said:


> It's really coming together!  Those amps look badass.


Thanks. 


PS - I just checked out your install and like the integration with the factory head unit. Very nice results.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Update September 16, 2008

In an effort to get my rear wall buttoned back up, I picked up some rustoleum universal flat black paint made for plastic, and some flat black self adhesive door edge trim. I painted the visible parts of the inside of the rear wall to make them more seamless and so to help them not stick out like a sore thumb. I also took the door edge trim and ran it around the freshly cut portion of the rear wall.

That rear wall is a very tight fit. The black hdpe is a little too high on one side by the fuse block so that side of the wall doesn't go back in as easily as it should. Not sure I feel like messing with it any more though.

Also, forgot about the latch point for the car seat being directly in front of where I put the arc 125.4. There is about 2mm of space between the latch and the amp, so I'll have to wait a few days and see if there is any rubbing going on.

Shot of rear wall before painting tabs and edge:









Freshly painted tabs and edges and rubber edging:

















Rear wall set in place. You can see rubber edging, and about mid picture you can see painted black tab:









Another shot of rear wall, and also you can see I put the stock storage bin lid back on the spot where I had tried to mount the alpine pdx-5:









Shot of car seat latch in place. As I look at this picture though, it just dawned on me that if I reverse the way it's clipped it may provide more clearance. Worth a try:

















Non stereo shot of what the rear seat normally looks like, and the reason I rarely get to work on the truck. LOL 









Lastly, since my truck has one of the rear windows that goes all the way down, I was able to snap a few shots with one seat slightly pulled forward to show how much space and how much lack of space I really have behind the rear seats:










Rear wall is basically finished, other than maybe going back to try flip flopping the car seat hook, and maybe if I get a real burst of energy going back to try to cut the black hdpe board down a little to get a nicer fit of the rear wall skin.

Next step is getting tweeters mounted. Then, will be getting RCA's pulled out from under center console and run up into dash, and then getting head unit mounted. After that, pop in some fuses, set the gains, set the head unit up, and ready to go.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

Looking good. Ever thought of putting some form of padding on the hook? that would help with rubbing. Also, I will be interested in finding out if the amps get too hot since there is really no space back there. Do you have any idea of how your going to position the tweeters? Cross dash, at an angle?


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

slvrtsunami said:


> Looking good. Ever thought of putting some form of padding on the hook? that would help with rubbing. Also, I will be interested in finding out if the amps get too hot since there is really no space back there. Do you have any idea of how your going to position the tweeters? Cross dash, at an angle?


Thanks man. It sucks after putting in a ton of hard work to find when something doesn't work, so I was a little disappointed to find that the car seat hook was so close. The metal doesn't appear to be touching, but with the hook this way the strap is touching a little.

Also, realizing that the hdpe being crooked on the rear wall is keeping the rear panel from going back as flat as it should is driving me nuts. I shouldn't even give it a second thought, but I know it's there and that's driving me nuts as I want it perfect. 

On the tweeters, I'm planning to use the stock factory brackets, and as best I can tell they aim the tweeters slightly up and at about 45 degrees to the door. Basically, they seem to be aimed at the dome light, but I can't swear to that yet. If I get a chance to install them and the head unit this weekend, I planned to take some string and using a right angle to the bracket do a quick study at what they are aimed at. Will keep you posted.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

whatfelloff said:


> Great job makes me want to jump on my yota.


Cool, just noticed you were from Tifton, GA. Not too far away from us here in Tally.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

they most likely are pointed at the dome light, especially if the dome ight is pretty much in the middle of the cab. I am really curious as to how those amps will perform. I really like the SMALL size.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

slvrtsunami said:


> they most likely are pointed at the dome light, especially if the dome ight is pretty much in the middle of the cab. I am really curious as to how those amps will perform. I really like the SMALL size.


You are probably right, and I'll probably leave them that way as I am wanting it to have good sound for all passengers and not just the driver. So, I doubt I'll go to lengths to put them directed at the driver.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

*Log Update - September 18, 2008 - Sail Panels*

Got a few hours tonight to try my idea for modifying my sail panels without having to do lots of custom work or glassing. 

The idea was to cut out the small pod that is molded into the sail panel, and to make a larger opening to allow various sized tweeters to fit, while keeping a more stock looking appearance at the same time.

So, in this picture you can see where I've cut away one of the sails openings:









In order to protect the tweeter, yet still allow a stealth look and clean sound, my idea was to create a new custom grille for the sail panel. I had the crazy idea earlier this week to try to press fit my own grill. I had some 3/4" hdpe left over from making my midbass bracket, and it seemed the perfect material to use, as it's hard yet easily shapable.

After cutting out the sail panel, I traced out the openings shape onto the hdpe and then cut it out. That created what you see here:









After cutting out the shape above, I went back and trimmed about a saw blades width off of all 4 sides to allow extra room for the grill material to pull through.

I didn't have a chance to order any special grill metal, so I tried what I had on hand. My TS-C720PRS mids came with some grills that I'm not using, so I thought they would be perfect. Boy was that wrong. They were way too thin to die press in this fashion. Obviously if I'd had a real die press machine and a real die, I could work with thinner metal, but not using this method. 

Casualty number 1:









Here is a shot of try number 2 underway:









Thinking I had rushed try number 1, I just knew I could get it with try number 2 if I took my time. Well, it split in the corners:









Then, I remembered I'd bought 4 strips of wire mesh gutter cover material that I initially planned to use to seal up my doors. It's a little heavy and rough, but held together well and was able to turn out perfectly. This would be covered with black grille cloth material that I've ordered from Parts Express, but won't get that until next week:


















Test fitting over the alpine tweets, and of course I hit problem numero uno. At 3/4", the depth of the hdpe die, the grill isn't quite deep enough for the tweet. I need to step up to 1" hdpe and press it again, and it should drop right in.









Lastly, I snapped a shot of the sail with tweeter mounted but without the grill installed. As you can see, I've scuffed the sail, so when I'm finished with them, I'll be spraying a coat of satin black plastic paint over them, and a coat of flat back metal paint over the grill, then I'll be covering the grill with cloth and gluing it into the sail, and ta dah, a covered sail that can hold most any small tweet on the stock bracket, and maybe even some large formats if I mount them without the bracket.


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

Looks good! I think painting the mesh with some flat black with the addition of grill cloth will help it look as factory as possible. Good work.


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## BMWturbo (Apr 11, 2008)

Why not use some MDF or the like as a packer to raise the 3/4 board up the thickness you need?


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

BMWturbo said:


> Why not use some MDF or the like as a packer to raise the 3/4 board up the thickness you need?


Thanks. I'm gonna give that a try when I get another chance to work on them.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

*Re: Log Update - September 18, 2008 - Sail Panels*



txbonds said:


> Here is a shot of try number 2 underway:




Corrected this picture above. I had attached the wrong shot in my post last night. This one correctly shows the material underway in the pressing process.


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## jdc753 (Nov 14, 2007)

Just read through your entire thread. Looks good for sure. 

We got different but similar trucks, its amazing how little install room there is in these crew cab trucks, would think big interior space would have some good install room but seems its the opposite. Really liking your sub box and fuse holder you did. Amp rack looks nice too specially with the good use of those tiny amps. I think you really maximized your available space for sure, and didn't sacrifice any utility or the truck. 

Tweeter pods look awesome, might be a bit shy on depth but will look sweet when you get them finished up. Looking forward to seeing these finished up as well as the rest of the build and powering it all up


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

jdc753 said:


> Just read through your entire thread. Looks good for sure.
> 
> We got different but similar trucks, its amazing how little install room there is in these crew cab trucks, would think big interior space would have some good install room but seems its the opposite. Really liking your sub box and fuse holder you did. Amp rack looks nice too specially with the good use of those tiny amps. I think you really maximized your available space for sure, and didn't sacrifice any utility or the truck.
> 
> Tweeter pods look awesome, might be a bit shy on depth but will look sweet when you get them finished up. Looking forward to seeing these finished up as well as the rest of the build and powering it all up




Thanks. I keep thinking I want to move up to an Alpine H701 processor and dvd head unit, but the thing that keeps me from going for it mostly is lack of space. There isn't a good spot to mount a 701 without sacraficing some other portion of the truck. The rear wall has enough room to remove the 125.2 and replace it with a 500.1 if I want too. There might also be a way to move that 125.2 over and have all 3 on the rear wall, but that would be the limit without major changes.

So, you are correct that there isn't much extra space, and that's what I've been wrestling with most during my whole process.

And for powering it up, I'm hopeful to get that done this weekend as long as I don't run into any major snags.


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## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

What about the H701 where the PDX was?


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

capnxtreme said:


> What about the H701 where the PDX was?


You're bad.................. real bad. LOL 

Thought about it, but since I moved the amps to the back wall, I've turned that spot back into storage for the factory jack, jack tools, etc. I didn't have a spot for them, and was having to make that a future project.

They came out of that spot, so putting them back in was sort of a natural decision.

That said, I keep looking at the 701's combined with a single din dvd head unit, but am not sold enough to drop the money on it. I really need to just stop with what I've got and get something playing to even have a point of reference to go by.


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## jdc753 (Nov 14, 2007)

you know you want the H701 and I bet the jack/tools could find a nice spot in the bed or in a bed mounted toolbox 

Hehe, just putting gas on the fire lol. My originial plan was to run a W205 and a h701 in my truck, ended up going with the 9887/computer after having the W205 installed for a few months just cause I guess installing audio only was too simple of a project, boy was I wrong lol 

I bet there is some free space in that center console you got  lol


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

jdc753 said:


> you know you want the H701 and I bet the jack/tools could find a nice spot in the bed or in a bed mounted toolbox
> 
> Hehe, just putting gas on the fire lol. My originial plan was to run a W205 and a h701 in my truck, ended up going with the 9887/computer after having the W205 installed for a few months just cause I guess installing audio only was too simple of a project, boy was I wrong lol
> 
> I bet there is some free space in that center console you got  lol


Yeah, but what would be the point of running the optical 3 feet to the console, then running a 10' rca. LOL Main reason I would do the 701 would be the optical connection.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Just measured with sunflower seeds, and my fiberglass sub enclosure comes out to roughly 0.601362 cubic feet.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

txbonds said:


> Just measured with sunflower seeds, and my fiberglass sub enclosure comes out to roughly 0.601362 cubic feet.


Might as well be the first to say it....that must be alot of seeds!! plan on 're-usinng' them?


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Yeah, I had another thread running about how to measure the box volume, and the use of using beans came up. However, I didn't want to eat them after using them, and didn't want to waste them, so I bought a 25 lb bag of sunflower sead bird food, and a feeder. Used a 4 cup measuring cup to fill the box and counted as I went. Then converted the number of cups to cubic feet. 

I'm going to add a little to the number also to account for the extra air space around the seads since they are not fluid like water, so I'm going with estimated volume of 0.65.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

*Update - September 21, 2008 - Head Unit Install*

Measuring sub box volume:

















Forgot to post this earlier, but shot of new fuse holder:









Starting to install head unit:

















Test fitting head unit:









Final shots of head unit fired up:


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

No major updates, but did want to put to print that my tuning is a major headache. Even with the 800prs auto T/A and auto EQ, there is a lot to set yourself.

Currently, I used the Auto T/A to set the speaker delays.

I set my EQ to the Flat setting, and I've not made any individual EQ settings.

I've set my xover's up as follows:

Sub low passed at 63hz, 24db slope, level down -7db
Midrange/Midbass high passed at 63hz, 24db slope, level down -1db
Midrange/Midbass low passed at 2.5hz, 24db slope, level flat 0db
Tweeter high passed at 2.5hz, 24db slope, level flat 0db

Loudness function off
BBE function set to on at lowest setting

I didn't note where the auto t/a set each speaker as that was automatically set.

I"m mainly posting this so that in a week or two I can reflect on it and compare.

Regards.


PS - I will also add that the screen on the pioneer 800prs sucks in the daylight. With glare and daylight, I can't read a thing on it. At night, it's great, but for day time viewing, unless it's extremely shaded, I can't read it. That said, I'm also going to change the color of the faceplate to green to match my interior lighting. LOL


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

txbonds said:


> No major updates, but did want to put to print that my tuning is a major headache. Even with the 800prs auto T/A and auto EQ, there is a lot to set yourself.
> 
> Currently, I used the Auto T/A to set the speaker delays.
> 
> ...


Yes, tuning can be fun. However, if I am not mistaken, the level adjustment on the midrange bandpass is the same for the high pass and low pass....gotta check it out on my 880. Why dont you set the Time Alignment by the tape measure technique?


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

slvrtsunami said:


> the level adjustment on the midrange bandpass is the same for the high pass and low pass


It is.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

slvrtsunami said:


> Yes, tuning can be fun. However, if I am not mistaken, the level adjustment on the midrange bandpass is the same for the high pass and low pass....gotta check it out on my 880. Why dont you set the Time Alignment by the tape measure technique?



I might go back and double check it with a tape measure, but the mic and auto alignment did a pretty good job for starters. What I need to do is run it again with the mic moved forward from the headrest where my actual head is during daily driving. Few inches difference there as I don't drive with my head on the head rest.


On a separate note, I received my Roscolux Green Gel material in yesterday's mail, so if I have a chance over this weekend, not only am I planning to work on the sail panels, but also I hope to have time to change the led lighting color from white, to a proper matching green color, as well as sanding down the premier logo from gold to the underlying silver color as Mr. Marv did on his 880.


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

txbonds said:


> On a separate note, I received my Roscolux Green Gel material in yesterday's mail, so if I have a chance over this weekend, not only am I planning to work on the sail panels, but also I hope to have time to change the led lighting color from white, to a proper matching green color, as well as sanding down the premier logo from gold to the underlying silver color as Mr. Marv did on his 880.


If you get a chance to do either, can you do me a favor and take some pics (lots!)? My offer on a new vehicle just went through, so I plan on color matching my 880 to the factory stuff as well. And like everyone else I also hate the gold premier logo.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

UCF52 said:


> If you get a chance to do either, can you do me a favor and take some pics (lots!)? My offer on a new vehicle just went through, so I plan on color matching my 880 to the factory stuff as well. And like everyone else I also hate the gold premier logo.


Sorry for the late reply, but definately will. Didn't get a chance to do it yet, but maybe tomorrow.

Today, I instead focused on my sail panels. Personally, I think they look pretty poor, but maybe I'm being over critical. At this point though, I'm pretty much done with them, as there isn't much else that can be done with the way I've decided to mount the tweets.

Here is the end result so far:


















Ended up sanding down the sails with 400 grit paper, then with fine steel wool. Painted them with krylon fusion satin black for plastic. The silver mesh was painted with rustoleum universal flat black paint. Then I sprayed the grill with contact cement, and wrapped it with black grill cloth that I got from parts express. After trimming the exces grill cloth around the edges of the grill, I then pressed the grill into the sail and that's pretty much it.

They work, and at quick glance they look okay, but if you look really close they don't have that professional look I was hoping for.


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## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

Nothing to sneeze at. Too bad it didn't work out as you hoped. It was a cool idea. But that seems more than livable until you want to try your hand at fg. 

(I have to be bad influence wherever possible if you haven't noticed)


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

I won't be fiberglassing them. Short of buying new sails and starting over on the grills, I'm done with them. The way they are they don't catch your eye at all when you look in or walk past, and that's what I was going for.

I just was unhappy with how some of the fit and finish turned out because they were hard as hell to cut, shape and mold the wire grill into place. 

Anyway, they will probably remain as you see them for the long haul. LOL Didn't really have time to do them the first time, and really no time to do them again. 
Just noticed that top pic looks like there is a white spot on the grill, but that was a sun light spot, and not a white spot on the grill.


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

txbonds said:


> Sorry for the late reply, but definately will. Didn't get a chance to do it yet, but maybe tomorrow.


No worries, thanks!



txbonds said:


> The way they are they don't catch your eye at all when you look in or walk past, and that's what I was going for.
> 
> I just was unhappy with how some of the fit and finish turned out because they were hard as hell to cut, shape and mold the wire grill into place.


I say give it a week or two before you get critical. Realistically, they are just there to house and protect the tweeters. And from the pics they seem to look pretty good.


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

You know looking at them again, they actually look really good. Is the grill cloth color as light as the pictures portray? I'd say if they matched the sail panel black then they would look damn near factory.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

No, it's black, but the flash I think is making them reflect and look lighter. Also, the flash light might be making the grill underneat show through more.

They are not quite as dark as the satin black sail though, but they do look pretty stock in real life. I should try to take a wider angle view that shows how well they blend in. Maybe I'll do that tomorrow so it gives the effect someone sees when they look as opposed to just zooming in on the sail.

And Thanks.


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

txbonds said:


> No, it's black, but the flash I think is making them reflect and look lighter. Also, the flash light might be making the grill underneat show through more.
> 
> They are not quite as dark as the satin black sail though, but they do look pretty stock in real life. I should try to take a wider angle view that shows how well they blend in. Maybe I'll do that tomorrow so it gives the effect someone sees when they look as opposed to just zooming in on the sail.
> 
> And Thanks.


I'd be willing to bet you'll get into your truck a week or two from now and take a second and admire the outcome of them. Sometimes it can take a bit before it settles. And if they are pretty close in color I bet the pics don't do them justice.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Sorry, didn't get a chance to do the face plate color change this weekend. 

The tweeter pod covers have grown on me enough that unless I have some sort of problem with them, they will be staying as is.

After further listening with a little over a weeks worth of playing with settings, I can't say that I'm thrilled yet. I'm having trouble finding the happy medium tuning spot. Right now, it sounds nice on jazz, classical, and some rock, but on other rock it sounds not so great. May be a result of poor recordings, but I'm guessing it's tuning. I've not even gotten to the point of doing EQ settings yet, but am strictly working with levels and xover points still. The midbass is bothering me a little. It's a little too punchy sounding. Don't know if there is any way to fix it without going bigger, but it reminds me of the way a 6" subwoofer sounds as compared to a 10" subwoofer. 

I've got them crossed over at 63hz, and they can get down there and play low, but they still sound like a 6.5" speaker. I tried letting the subwoofer do more of the low end, but then the sound shifts too much away from the front end.

Lastly, I'm still having road noise problems and I'm not sure how to combat it. I've done lots of matt and ensolite at this point, but I'm still getting that Power Robbing road noise that keeps me from hearing lower end details when at highway speeds of 45mph +


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

*09/30/08 - Update for future reference*

Just updating my xover settings again for future reference.

*This is what I set and posted about 5 days ago:*
Sub low passed at 63hz, 24db slope, level down -7db
Midrange/Midbass high passed at 63hz, 24db slope, level down -1db
Midrange/Midbass low passed at 2.5hz, 24db slope, level flat 0db
Tweeter high passed at 2.5hz, 24db slope, level flat 0db


*Updated xover settings from last night:*
Sub low passed at 80hz, 24db slope, level down -7db
Midrange/Midbass high passed at 80hz, 12db slope, level down -1db
Midrange/Midbass low passed at 2.5hz, 24db slope, level flat 0db
Tweeter high passed at 2.5hz, 24db slope, level flat 0db



I was having some boomy, bloomy midbass with the earlier settings that I am thinking could be attributed to resonance in the door, or the speaker itself. Based on the specs I could find, the Free Air Resonance for the pioneer ts-c720prs mids is 66hz according to the manual, and 59.38hz according to the kippel test run by Npdang in the review section. 

I'm just wondering if in my particular install, a 63hz cut off point is causing the speaker to reach a point of resonance. Not sure honestly what else to think other than the door needs either more dampning, or my baffle needs more bracing and/or decoupling, or simply as said the speaker may just be reaching it's point of resonance.

Either way, at 80hz, even with only a 12db slope, it seems to clean up quite a bit.

Any thoughts or input on this?


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

*10/02/08 - update for future reference*

Sorry to keep updating with this stuff, but it will help me to have it on record as I make changes so I can come back and reflect on the changes later. Plus, who knows, maybe someone else get's something out of it.

*This is what I set yesterday:*
Sub low passed at 80hz, 24db slope, level down -7db
Midrange/Midbass high passed at 80hz, 12db slope, level down -1db
Midrange/Midbass low passed at 2.5hz, 24db slope, level flat 0db
Tweeter high passed at 2.5hz, 24db slope, level flat 0db


*Updated xover settings from this morning:*
Sub low passed at 63hz, 24db slope, level down -7db
Midrange/Midbass high passed at 80hz, 12db slope, level down -1db
Midrange/Midbass low passed at 2.5hz, 24db slope, level flat 0db
Tweeter high passed at 2.5hz, 24db slope, level flat 0db


Not a big change, but it seemed to clean up the low end quite a bit. The midbass sounds cleaner and less boomy up at 80hz, but with the sub there it is drawing the stage too much to the rear and also causing a bloom in the upper sub lower midbass region. When I dropped the sub down to 63, the low end seems to remain, and the midbass seemed to clean up quite a bit, while the stage seemed to come back to the front.

I think next I need to spend more time focusing on adjusting the gains on my amp. I'm running into a problem of finding myself listening to quieter music like classical and jazz with the head unit volume up on 48. From the looks of it, I think it may only go up to the 50 to 60 range. Not sure, but I think I may need to set the gains a little higher so that I reach max listening volume at a lower volume number on the head unit.

*Anyone know what their 800prs / 880prs is set to for their max volume setting?*


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## 00poop6x (Jan 20, 2007)

I ran out of CD-R's. Will get it to you soon, though.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

No problem. Thanks for the update.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

My volume setting only goes up to 62.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

I forgot to come back and post a pic of how the sail panel integrates into the door when looking at a broader view, so I snapped this crappy shot with the cell phone this morning. Will post something better later. Regards.


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## BLACKonBLACK98 (Apr 5, 2008)

very detailed log. well done.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

BLACKonBLACK98 said:


> very detailed log. well done.


Thanks. 

I was listening to it today at lunch, and I think some of my midbass problems are calming down with use, and with the slight tweaks to the xover points. I've not even begun the process of adjusting EQ settings yet, as they are still flat, but so far it's sounding really nice now.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

*UPDATE: October 10, 2008*

Didn't get any pictures, but there wouldn't have been a lot to se anyway at this point. This morning, I had some free time so I got my ipod adapter installed and connected to my 800prs headunit. It's the standard pioneer CD-IB100II adapter unit. Comes with a small metal control box that has a permanently attached ipod dock cable. It also includes a P-Bus cable to connect to the head unit. And lastly, it includes a two wire power wire harness with fuse holder.

I bought this used on ebay, and while it looks a little rough, it works just fine. I took the two wire power harness, one yellow for constant 12 volt and one black for ground, and hooked one end to a solid object, and stuck the other end in the cordless drill. Spun the wires down tight to twist them around each other. Then, I ran the length of twisted power/ground wire, along with the P-Bus cable inside some blue techflex. Heat shrinked the ends, and routed the cables up behind my head unit, and down into the forward center console. 

For power/ground, I cut the headunit harness wires, and resoldered them to include the ipod wiring for both the yellow and black wires in my factory harness adapter on my headunit. Seemed the easiest spot to get power, and the fuse was only rated at 2 amps, so I figured the factory wiring would be fine. Plus I have had zero noise problems so I didn't want to risk pulling power from another site that might induce noise.

Got the soldered wires all heat shrinked, and plugged everything back into the head unit, including the new p-bus cable. Reinstalled the head unit, and then focused on the control box. The control box was a ***** to find a spot to hide it. I ended up tucking it barely into the front left side of my center console. I routed the dock cable up and behind my factory ash tray.

I'll get some pictures when I do it, but my plan is to convert the ash tray into a tray that will hold my ipod. It will keep it hidden, and will allow me to not use up crutial storage space in my center console. 

Sorry for the lengthy update, but with no pics I tried to be detailed to make up for it. 

Regards.


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

txbonds said:


> Didn't get any pictures, but there wouldn't have been a lot to se anyway at this point. This morning, I had some free time so I got my ipod adapter installed and connected to my 800prs headunit. It's the standard pioneer CD-IB100II adapter unit. Comes with a small metal control box that has a permanently attached ipod dock cable. It also includes a P-Bus cable to connect to the head unit. And lastly, it includes a two wire power wire harness with fuse holder.
> 
> I bought this used on ebay, and while it looks a little rough, it works just fine. I took the two wire power harness, one yellow for constant 12 volt and one black for ground, and hooked one end to a solid object, and stuck the other end in the cordless drill. Spun the wires down tight to twist them around each other. Then, I ran the length of twisted power/ground wire, along with the P-Bus cable inside some blue techflex. Heat shrinked the ends, and routed the cables up behind my head unit, and down into the forward center console.
> 
> ...


I'll be looking forward to see what you come up with for a tray/dock. The adapter is a ***** to install - why couldn't it just be a freakin' single cable solution! Oh well. I'll be re-installing my deck and adapter shortly. I never had an issue either using the wiring harness for power.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

The biggest problem I have with the ipod adapter, other than it not being a single cable or usb solution, is the fact that the dock cable is permanently attached. If they would have made it detachable with a smaller plug on the box end, it would make install easier. However, lots of places I would have considered putting it were impossible because I didn't want to have to cut a 1" hole in the trim to get the dock plug through.


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

txbonds said:


> The biggest problem I have with the ipod adapter, other than it not being a single cable or usb solution, is the fact that the dock cable is permanently attached. If they would have made it detachable with a smaller plug on the box end, it would make install easier. However, lots of places I would have considered putting it were impossible because I didn't want to have to cut a 1" hole in the trim to get the dock plug through.


Yeah I hear ya. I'm not looking forward to trying to locate a spot for that damn cable.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Ipod update, but rather than post it all, I'll just link to another thread: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48166

This means I'm down to doing the color change on the 800prs screen, and building out the ash tray to hold the ipod, and I'm pretty much done other than more fine tuning of eq, xover, phase, etc. Those are all handled at the HU though, so the install part is pretty much done after the above two items are done, which is good because I'm tiring of this project. LOL


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

txbonds said:


> Ipod update, but rather than post it all, I'll just link to another thread: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48166
> 
> This means I'm down to doing the color change on the 800prs screen, and building out the ash tray to hold the ipod, and I'm pretty much done other than more fine tuning of eq, xover, phase, etc. Those are all handled at the HU though, so the install part is pretty much done after the above two items are done, which is good because I'm tiring of this project. LOL


Sounds good. Remember to take some good process picks, as I will most likely do the color change as well.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

UCF52 said:


> Sounds good. Remember to take some good process picks, as I will most likely do the color change as well.


Will do. Don't know if I'll get a chance to do the screen color this weekend or not, but I'm going to give it a try if the schedule allows.

As for the ash tray holder, I'm still undecided how I'm going to build it yet. I don't want to hack the ash tray itself as I might want to put it back in one day. The good thing is that it is somewhat modular. The silver spring piece that keeps it from falling out when you pull it, pops right off, and the front trim piece is just screwed on, so I'm thinking I might try to build my own holder with slides to mount the trim piece on. Then it looks stock but can go back to stock. Don't know though.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

txbonds said:


> Will do. Don't know if I'll get a chance to do the screen color this weekend or not, but I'm going to give it a try if the schedule allows.
> 
> As for the ash tray holder, I'm still undecided how I'm going to build it yet. I don't want to hack the ash tray itself as I might want to put it back in one day. The good thing is that it is somewhat modular. The silver spring piece that keeps it from falling out when you pull it, pops right off, and the front trim piece is just screwed on, so I'm thinking I might try to build my own holder with slides to mount the trim piece on. Then it looks stock but can go back to stock. Don't know though.


How about just picking up another ashtray to mod as you like, then replace it with the original when needed?

Also, what are your impressions on the ARC mini's? or did I miss it in an earlier post. Thanks.


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

I also want to know how you are going to get around the squeezing of the sides of the connector to release the iPod...


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

UCF52 said:


> I also want to know how you are going to get around the squeezing of the sides of the connector to release the iPod...


I'm not. I'm only making a tray to hold the ipod. Not a dock like you are thinking. I'd just toss it in the tray but it doesnt quite fit due to the shape and the cable. I may look at just altering the existing tray.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

slvrtsunami said:


> How about just picking up another ashtray to mod as you like, then replace it with the original when needed?
> 
> Also, what are your impressions on the ARC mini's? or did I miss it in an earlier post. Thanks.


I think I mentioned it somewhere up there, but are awesome. Not one fault with them. Plenty of power for everything I've thrown at it. I've been very pleased with them so far. They are very clean, and dynamic, and don't seem to add any coloration to the sound from what I can tell.


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

txbonds said:


> I'm not. I'm only making a tray to hold the ipod. Not a dock like you are thinking. I'd just toss it in the tray but it doesnt quite fit due to the shape and the cable. I may look at just altering the existing tray.


Ah, gotcha. With your idea, will the iPod be in plain sight? If so, I would strongly consider a more discrete alternative (obviously to avoid theft issues). I think I am just going to run the iPod attachment cable to my center console. That way I can just connect it and enter/exit the vehicle worry free.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

UCF52 said:


> Ah, gotcha. With your idea, will the iPod be in plain sight? If so, I would strongly consider a more discrete alternative (obviously to avoid theft issues). I think I am just going to run the iPod attachment cable to my center console. That way I can just connect it and enter/exit the vehicle worry free.


No, that's the whole point of this. Instead of the ash tray cup that holds ashes, I will have a tray that holds the ipod. The face of the ashtray will attach to the ipod tray. It will all slide back in on the rails that the ash tray sits on. From basic look, you'd never know it was there. If someone pulls out the ash tray, they would see it then.


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

txbonds said:


> No, that's the whole point of this. Instead of the ash tray cup that holds ashes, I will have a tray that holds the ipod. The face of the ashtray will attach to the ipod tray. It will all slide back in on the rails that the ash tray sits on. From basic look, you'd never know it was there. If someone pulls out the ash tray, they would see it then.


Oh okay, I gotcha. That will be cool.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

*October 20, 2008*

Just a strange event to report on. Came out to get in the truck this morning, and some strange how, some of the settings had changed on my 800prs. My xover settings were still there (cut off, slope, etc) but the levels settings on my tweets were changed, and the seating position and time alignment settings were somewhat changed.

Don't know how it could have happened that part of the settings changed, but not all. Very strange. No one has been in my truck without me. Only thing that changed is that the temperature dropped over the weekend here in north Florida. From 70's & 80's, to the 50's. Shouldn't matter, but that's the only thing that has changed.

Very, very strange, but now I have to work on my levels and T/A settings again.


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

*Re: October 20, 2008*



txbonds said:


> Just a strange event to report on. Came out to get in the truck this morning, and some strange how, some of the settings had changed on my 800prs. My xover settings were still there (cut off, slope, etc) but the levels settings on my tweets were changed, and the seating position and time alignment settings were somewhat changed.
> 
> Don't know how it could have happened that part of the settings changed, but not all. Very strange. No one has been in my truck without me. Only thing that changed is that the temperature dropped over the weekend here in north Florida. From 70's & 80's, to the 50's. Shouldn't matter, but that's the only thing that has changed.
> 
> Very, very strange, but now I have to work on my levels and T/A settings again.


That's weird.... and yeah, the cooler whether has been nice


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

although there has not been a significant temperature difference around here. I find it rather unusual and disturbing that would happen. The only other thing it might be is a voltage 'glitch' that happens in some cars and trucks. Even then, it should not happen. My 880 has been ok with its settings, and I check and experiment with mine alot. Please keep us posted as to what happens.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Figured it out. In a moment of "duh" this morning some how I managed to move the "seat position" choice to off. Hearing an immediate difference I began adjusting levels and what not as they were out of whack immediately.

Well, as best I can tell, I thought I had moved it to "all front seats" last night, so this morning I hoped in and without really looking moved it to the left for "left front seat". Well, if its' on left front already and you push left again, it goes to off. 

Unfortunately, I have to try to figure out my prior settings again. Doh!


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

glad it was something simple.

I thought you took notes as for the TA and EQ and X-over?


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## Loneranger (Oct 24, 2008)

Wow, that looks like a great install. I found your thread and this forum BTW via tundrasolutions. I just purchased a 2006 DC with the factory NAV -JBL radio only 2 weeks ago. I have reviewed your log at least twice now.

The last truck I had was also a Tundra but a 2001 AC. I had someone else install radio in that one and no where near as quality as yours but it was far better than the stock one in the 2006. 

Last time I installed a system was in a 1991 Honda Accord. All of the manufacturers are new and unknown to me now. The internet is a wonderful thing in terms of finding information however. 

If I decide to go through with installation myself I may PM you when I get stuck. I think I will live with the stock system for a few more months. 

BTW, did you consider mounting the PDX5 under the passenger front seat? You would have to elevate it above those vents.

Would you do all the sound deadening if you had it to do over again?

Yours looks great! I bet it sounds even better.

John


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Sorry for the late reply. I've gotten into other things as my install has come to a close and haven't been on the forum much. I feel a little bad now as I deleted my install pics from the photo server just yesterday. Feel free to contact me with any questions, but I'd suggest you Email me rather than PM so I can see it sooner.

From an update standpoint, the only things I lacked in being finished are:
1.) deaden rear doors
2.) Open 800prs faceplate and insert green light gel to change color to match dash lighting
3.) Tune as needed

Over this weekend, I finished up my ipod install. It turned out pretty much the way I wanted. If I were to do it again, I'd make a few different cuts, but otherwise, it would be the same. 

All I did was remove the ashtray from the dash. Then I removed the silver metal flap from the top of the ashtray. It's the piece that keeps the ashtray from coming all the way out without depressing it.

Then remove the dash matched color piece from teh front with the two screws on the bottom, and set it aside. Taking a dremel with cutoff wheel, I then proceeded to notch the rear of the ashtray about 1/2 inch deep and about 1 inch wide to allow the ipod plug to fit through. Then, I proceeded to cut out the front lower portion of the ashtray, leaving only the tabs that the colored face plate screws into. If you look, you'll see what I mean, but I don't have pics at the moment. This gives you someway to reattach the front panel, and also provides two places for the front of the ipod to rest.

Next, I took two small strips of HDPE that I had left over from my amp board. About 1 inch by 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch. put the ipod into the ashtray so that it sits level and flat to the top of the tray, but is recessed into the ashtray about 1/4 inch. Mark that spot with a sharpie pen from underneath (you can reach underneath as you've cut out the front of the ashtray) Then, I clamped and drilled two holes through the outside of the ashtray and through the HDPE. Took two long aluminum pop rivets per side, and pop riveted the hdpe to either side of the back of the ashtray.

Now the ipod can lay flat in the ashtray riding on the two hdpe blocs and the two screw tab points left in teh front. At this point , you are ready to screw the color matched panel back onto the front, which seals over the hole you just cut out. I actuall cut the hole a little lwoer than needed, and that is all I'd change if I did it again. Not visible unless you are looking up from the floorboard, but I know it's there. 

Test fit to make sure the ipod is recessed low enough. If so, the last step is that you now have to cut out a strip of plastic from behind the ashtray. There is a thin strip about the width of the ash tray running from the upper dash down to the lower dash. I simple cut it off completely, but you might be able to do less. This allows clearance for teh cord when the ashtray is completely pressed in. Make sure you know what is behind it when you cut it. I used an extra hack saw blade to slowly cut it, using my fingers to constantly feel for wires and harnesses. Only wires on mine were my own RCA's running up from under the center console to the radio.

Once that strip is cut out, you can then insert the ipod with cord attached inside the ashtray and it goes fully into the dash. Stays there full time, but when you want it out, simply pull open tray and pop it out. Cord remains in dash/ash tray.

I'll try to take a pic or two, but hopefully there are enough details above for anyone to follow the idea.

Regards.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Figured I'd update this a little over a year later.

Since my last post, I've made some changes. Mostly out of necessity more than desire. Somewhere during the last year I sold my Arc 125.2 and had been running without a sub amp using only my Arc 125.4 to power my components. I got used to it after a while as the pioneer mids were pretty stout.

However, rather than replacing my sub amp I came to the conclusion that my system needed to be more supportive of family use and with minimal cost input, so I instead just sold my Pioneer PRS headunit.

So, after a few changes and a few sell items, I've just installed this weekend the new or replacement items.

Current new system is as follows:

> Kenwood DDX-514 w/ ipod cable in dash
> Arc Audio Mini 125.4 Amp
> Pioneer PRS 6.5" mids front door
> Alpine SPXPRO Tweets front door
> Alpine SPXREF Type X Crossovers on front components
> JBL GTO 10" sub sealed under rear seat


The big difference is no time alignment processing any longer, but picked up DVD capability and control via the dash. Front components now powered by 1/2 of Arc amp getting 70 watts per side via the alpine xovers, and the sub getting the other half bridged at 250 watts.

I've got the rear door stock speakers attached to the head units rear connections just so I can put DVD sound back there whenever needed, but otherwise they are kept off via the fader.



Overall it is still a nice system and still sounds much the same as the Pioneer PRS did without the TA turned on. The only difference is that the Kenwood is brighter sounding on the tweeters which I don't really like, so I'm going to try turning them down a db or so via the xovers for comparison. 

Only real downside is loss of flexibility to control xovers, TA, etc. Will try to post some pics soon showing the new setup. Regards.


PS - I found this interesting. From reading, I had prepared myself to have to purchase one of those hack boxes from ebay to be able to play video when in motion (not for me but for kid in rear seat), but interestingly enough when I grounded the "parking brake" wire the video works any time. Not sure why it works, but it does.


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## niceguy (Mar 12, 2006)

Any pics of your modded ashtray Ipod mount?


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

niceguy said:


> Any pics of your modded ashtray Ipod mount?


Will post a link in this post in a few minutes. Uploading some new photo's right now. Check back in 10 to 15 minutes. Regards.


Here you go. They are mixed in with some other updated pictures:
http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/p373005196


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## niceguy (Mar 12, 2006)

Everything looks really good. I work out of my van and have an active setup but space is limited to only a few places where things won't get banged up by tools,etc....

My Sony head unit doesn't have Ipod control so I'm mounting mine down in a storage bin near the floor and buying an auxiliary kit that comes w/a small Ipod remote that hopefully will work out.

Thanks for the great pics!


Jeremy


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## Loneranger (Oct 24, 2008)

I hate it that your pics are gone. I had read through your log when you were installing it. I am planning on upgrading my Tundra as well in the spring just after I finish my boat AV project.

John


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Sorry for the lost pics. I'm just coming back to the site after years of being away. Sold this truck about 3 years ago. Getting ready to start a new project on a 97 4runner. Will be very basic but will take pics along the way and do a build thread anyway. Regards.


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