# JL VXi amps



## Bnlcmbcar

The new JL DSP amps just unveiled at Knowledgfest Indianapolis:

https://www.facebook.com/jlaudio/videos/10160229660720523/

TuN 3.0 to come out soon.

Mac support and mobile tablet support.


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## billw

These look awesome. For anyone not wanting to watch the whole video, there are 8 models as follows.

2x300
4x100
6x100
8x100
1x600
1x1000
700 watt 5 channel
1000 watt 5 channel

All amp have built in dsp to conform to the number of amp channels + a pair of preouts. They also touched on some kind of factory integration piece with fiber optic outputs that connect directly to the amplifiers. 

Pricing is $799-$1199, right in line with HD amps which don't include dsp.


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## Smash

What's the release date on these? I noticed sonic electronics is discounting JL stuff today and shipping at a later date now.


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## rob feature

sweet


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## GreatLaBroski

Hmmm 8x100


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## TerryGreen5986

Smash said:


> What's the release date on these? I noticed sonic electronics is discounting JL stuff today and shipping at a later date now.




Now 


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## sensarmy

Maybe they'll grow on me but i'm not liking the way they look... Almost like a pdx amp. That aside, featres look amazing.


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## beak81champ

The way Richard Vedvick explained the HuB, seems like this is a whole other level of processing. Like unlimited numbers of channels processed, and sends a processed signal to any amp you are running, JL or not...


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## SkizeR

Smash said:


> What's the release date on these? I noticed sonic electronics is discounting JL stuff today and shipping at a later date now.


Sonic isn't authorized. Don't go by what their website says.

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## gumbeelee

SkizeR said:


> Sonic isn't authorized. Don't go by what their website says.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk




Yes they are u can check on jl ‘s webpage of there authorized internet retailers and sonic is one


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## SkizeR

gumbeelee said:


> Yes they are u can check on jl ‘s webpage of there authorized internet retailers and sonic is one
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Hmmm, interesting. Didn't think sonic was authorized for any of the decent stuff they sold

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## gumbeelee

SkizeR said:


> Hmmm, interesting. Didn't think sonic was authorized for any of the decent stuff they sold
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk




I didnt either honestly till i checked jls webpage


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## gumbeelee

I would really love to get one of these dsp’s; the only thing I just dont like the tun software, now granted I have only used it in demo mode. Helix software is so user friendly, I dont know maybe im just so use to it. I thank i still might try one out and give the tin software another shot


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## fullergoku

wonder how much delay is available?


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## LumbermanSVO

These are very tempting. I wonder if they are bridgeable? The 800/8 bridged to a 6 channel seems perfect for my Miata. 

It's now a real tossup between the Helix P Six DSP and an XVi.


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## Smash

Very excited about the 8 channel and mono block. Was thinking of a 3 way active in front and coax in the rear but don’t see any dsps that are 10 channel without spending a ton. 


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## trojan fan

These amp are long overdue from JL.....let's see how they perform in the real world


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## dcfis

Props JL


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## TerryGreen5986

Pricing & other info (if anyone wants/needs it)

https://www.ceoutlook.com/2018/03/16/jl-audio-intros-dsp-amplifiers/ 


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## Hillbilly SQ

GreatLaBroski said:


> Hmmm 8x100


Yeah that got my attention. Been wanting a solid 100x8 amp for a while and might have to jump on it after the lineup has been field tested. I actually like the TuN software better than the Helix. Guess I'm just so used to that style of processing vs the paragraphic the Helix has.

EDIT: Got corrected on the Helix eq. I now know it's full parametric.


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## gregerst22

Looks like the full range amps are only [email protected] ohm.


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## chefhow

Hillbilly SQ said:


> Yeah that got my attention. Been wanting a solid 100x8 amp for a while and might have to jump on it after the lineup has been field tested. I actually like the TuN software better than the Helix. Guess I'm just so used to that style of processing vs the paragraphic the Helix has.


People have been beta testing them for over 6 months Chris. JL doesnt release anything until they go thru real world testing, fix the problems reported and re-test.


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## Hillbilly SQ

chefhow said:


> People have been beta testing them for over 6 months Chris. JL doesnt release anything until they go thru real world testing, fix the problems reported and re-test.


Just watched the video and I grossly misworded my reply. Keep calm Howard, I trust JL. Wating for user reviews not associated with JL is what I should have said.


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## Hillbilly SQ

And are they quoting 2 ohm power on the fullrange amps? I know the xd's did 100 per channel at 2 ohms so would make sense, but misleading for those of us more interested in 4 ohm power.


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## ErinH

LumbermanSVO said:


> These are very tempting. I wonder if they are bridgeable? The 800/8 bridged to a 6 channel seems perfect for my Miata.


I don’t see why they wouldn’t be. The 5-channel is. I’ve been beta testing since about September. Two 5-channels bridged down to provide 3 channel output to each side of my speakers (one amp on left, one amp on right). A 1000/1 for the subs. 

Initially we (myself and other beta testers) had feedback on the interface and other mechanical-type things but as that feedback was incorporated to updates it just became a test of durability which I’ve had no complaints about thus far. 

Overall, solid amps. Built in DSP is plenty sufficient for me (I don’t need 31 bands of EQ per speaker). The latest TuN update provides some nice features such as all-pass filters at the crossovers (or adjustable otherwise) and shelf filter. Two features I find extremely useful. Really small footprint. If you’re coming to the meet in NC next month you can have a test run of the interface if you’d like.


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## Hillbilly SQ

How many other people on this forum field tested these amps? If this question is out of line it can be ignored.


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## SnakeOil

The looks are not doing it for me. The 1000/5 is perfect for me besides the looks. 
I still haven’t seen the DRC.


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## chefhow

Hillbilly SQ said:


> Just watched the video and I grossly misworded my reply. Keep calm Howard, I trust JL. Wating for user reviews not associated with JL is what I should have said.




I was just letting you know that it’s been beta tested for months Chris I could care less if you are a fan or not. Just trying to inform you and answer your questions, that’s all.


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## Elgrosso

TuN 3 on ios and osx, good news!




ErinH said:


> I don’t see why they wouldn’t be. The 5-channel is. I’ve been beta testing since about September. Two 5-channels bridged down to provide 3 channel output to each side of my speakers (one amp on left, one amp on right). A 1000/1 for the subs.
> 
> Initially we (myself and other beta testers) had feedback on the interface and other mechanical-type things but as that feedback was incorporated to updates it just became a test of durability which I’ve had no complaints about thus far.
> 
> Overall, solid amps. Built in DSP is plenty sufficient for me (I don’t need 31 bands of EQ per speaker). The latest TuN update provides some nice features such as all-pass filters at the crossovers (or adjustable otherwise) and shelf filter. Two features I find extremely useful. Really small footprint. If you’re coming to the meet in NC next month you can have a test run of the interface if you’d like.


Very interesting thx!
How does it manage the multiple units? does the soft manage them all at once or as multiple independent units/plugins ala minidsp?
Oh and can it import biquads?


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## ErinH

Hillbilly SQ said:


> How many other people on this forum field tested these amps? If this question is out of line it can be ignored.


Not sure. I know a few of them and they don’t post here (anymore). There could be others I’m not aware of.


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## BigAl205

ErinH said:


> If you’re coming to the meet in NC next month you can have a test run of the interface if you’d like.


Can I hold it? 



Elgrosso said:


> ...
> How does it manage the multiple units? does the soft manage them all at once or as multiple independent units/plugins ala minidsp?
> Oh and can it import biquads?


That's what I was wondering. If you had two 5-ch amps, would you have to tune them independently?


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## diy.phil

We want to see install pictures and build logs!!
The boss walked up to me while I was watching the video on this phone. She asked what's that. I said it's a presentation and it looks like I have a new project!


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## TerryGreen5986

diy.phil said:


> We want to see install pictures and build logs!!
> 
> The boss walked up to me while I was watching the video on this phone. She asked what's that. I said it's a presentation and it looks like I have a new project!











































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## Hillbilly SQ

chefhow said:


> I was just letting you know that it’s been beta tested for months Chris I could care less if you are a fan or not. Just trying to inform you and answer your questions, that’s all.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sorry if I seemed a little short this morning. This is why I should never post right after work or right when I wake up. Anyway, I'm a fan of these amps. They look really promising and I feel like this type of amp is the future of car audio. Lots of possibilities here. To be honest, the way an amp looks to me means nothing because my installs keep them out of sight and out of mind. I'll talk to Erin about them in a few weeks.


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## ErinH

BigAl205 said:


> Can I hold it?
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I was wondering. If you had two 5-ch amps, would you have to tune them independently?






As it stands, I’m using a hub to switch between each amp’s interface. The switching is quick and painless, though. It’s not ideal but it’s tolerable. This may be different now since they announced a BT module and some hub device for controlling multiple amps. Even us beta testers didn’t get the extras they are putting out with these so there may be more they’re doing or done that I’m not aware of. 



Remember that the pre-outs can send processed signal. So if you had a 5-channel and a mono amp, the 5-channel could process the subwoofer signal and you can spit that out via the pre-outs to your sub amp and avoid having to make changes to the mono DSP/amp.


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## ErinH

As for install pics, I only have a few. I don’t really “do” flashy installs. I did once but tore it out in less than a year. So there’s that.

Anyway, this is my setup. Simple and tidy. 































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## Niebur3

BigAl205 said:


> Can I hold it?


Jeez, keep it clean...please!


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## diy.phil

Thanks guys for the pictures/info!! 
Can I feed it without using an LC2i? (read as: really high power input from a H/K amp).
(More pictures please, maybe from others too that have played with it!)


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## ErinH

Dunno man. Though I would imagine it’s not a problem. 


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## ErinH

Well, guys, I’m bowing out of this thread. Currently on vacation. Family time. I’ll try to answer questions later if needed. 


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## PPI_GUY

Someone mentioned not liking the cosmetics of these amps. Personally, I think they look quite good. Nice to see a bit of curvature in the surface rather than just a flat, square box. The blue backlight around the logo is also a nice touch. Maybe slightly utilitarian but, JL has never designed "flashy' gear.


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## dcfis

They look really small


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## TerryGreen5986

PPI_GUY said:


> Someone mentioned not liking the cosmetics of these amps. Personally, I think they look quite good. Nice to see a bit of curvature in the surface rather than just a flat, square box. The blue backlight around the logo is also a nice touch. Maybe slightly utilitarian but, JL has never designed "flashy' gear.




The light can change between 4 (I believe) diff colors. Which also shows by the DRC. Just in case anyone wanted to know 


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## SnakeOil

Any pics of the DRC around?


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## diy.phil

At low, medium and loud volume (sound/listening level), do these amps/boxes run cool, medium/warm or hot? Thanks.


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## LumbermanSVO

ErinH said:


> I don’t see why they wouldn’t be. The 5-channel is. I’ve been beta testing since about September. Two 5-channels bridged down to provide 3 channel output to each side of my speakers (one amp on left, one amp on right). A 1000/1 for the subs.
> 
> Initially we (myself and other beta testers) had feedback on the interface and other mechanical-type things but as that feedback was incorporated to updates it just became a test of durability which I’ve had no complaints about thus far.
> 
> Overall, solid amps. Built in DSP is plenty sufficient for me (I don’t need 31 bands of EQ per speaker). The latest TuN update provides some nice features such as all-pass filters at the crossovers (or adjustable otherwise) and shelf filter. Two features I find extremely useful. Really small footprint. If you’re coming to the meet in NC next month you can have a test run of the interface if you’d like.


Thanks for the info, bridging capability is GREAT news! Seems like a perfect fit for for my Miata. I'll eventually be adding subs, and if this amp will fit under the seat, it's a winner. I already have an APL1 in the mix so I don't need a crazy EQ section. My iPhone sending a digital signal to the APL1, then digital to the amp, with no other gizmo's to muck it up is just perfect!

Unfortunately, I left on tour a week ago and won't be home for any reasonable length of time until July. But I trust your opinion on these things, so I'll be ordering one before I get home, assuming it'll fit under the passenger seat. How far do those plugs stick out when bent 180º?



Elgrosso said:


> TuN 3 on ios and osx, good news!


As a Mac guy, I'm SUPER happy about that! Many months ago Manville said in the TwK thread that they would eventually support MacOS, I didn't expect that software update to some with an amp/DSP combo!



SnakeOil said:


> Any pics of the DRC around?


Great question! I'd like to see the DRC too.


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## Onyx1136

This what I’ve been waiting for.


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## KillerBox

Any surround sound processing like Logic 7, Dolby Digital or DTS?

We had it in the 1980s with a Fosgate Gavotte surround sound processor & then JBL MS-8.


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## LumbermanSVO

A couple pictures from Crutchfield that may answer some more questions.

The Hub:









The DRC:


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## gumbeelee

I like the looks of them I just cant get past the 10bands of eq. I meant others might not mind but I prefer 31 bands. I guess helix has me spoiled but I do love all the different options amp/dsp JL is offering. Even though I dont like the tun software or 10 eq bands I will break down and buy one. I thank here in next couple of years the amp/dsp will become common. Honestly it kind of pisses me off because I feel like dsp’s should be just for us SQ guys. Everyone else that just wants a booming/****ty system just keep letting them buy there amps, and save the dsp’s for us. Im done whining, I AM JUST ****ING PISSED MY VOLS JUST LOST!!


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## msmith

Hillbilly SQ said:


> And are they quoting 2 ohm power on the fullrange amps? I know the xd's did 100 per channel at 2 ohms so would make sense, but misleading for those of us more interested in 4 ohm power.




4 ohm power is 75W per ch on the 400/4, 600/6, 800/8 and the main channels of the 5ch models. 

The 600/2 is 200W x 2 at 4 ohms.


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## msmith

billw said:


> These look awesome. For anyone not wanting to watch the whole video, there are 8 models as follows.
> 
> 
> 
> 2x300
> 
> 4x100
> 
> 6x100
> 
> 8x100
> 
> 1x600
> 
> 1x1000
> 
> 700 watt 5 channel
> 
> 1000 watt 5 channel
> 
> 
> 
> All amp have built in dsp to conform to the number of amp channels + a pair of preouts. They also touched on some kind of factory integration piece with fiber optic outputs that connect directly to the amplifiers.
> 
> 
> 
> Pricing is $799-$1199, right in line with HD amps which don't include dsp.




Actually, $1299.99 for the 8ch. I misspoke in the video. Sorry for the confusion.


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## msmith

LumbermanSVO said:


> These are very tempting. I wonder if they are bridgeable? The 800/8 bridged to a 6 channel seems perfect for my Miata.
> 
> 
> 
> It's now a real tossup between the Helix P Six DSP and an XVi.




Yes, the full range channels are bridgeable.


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## Hillbilly SQ

If a pair of channels are bridged can you use the eq bands from both channels on one speaker? And is the new software basically like what the twk has...10 bands per channel?


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## msmith

Hillbilly SQ said:


> If a pair of channels are bridged can you use the eq bands from both channels on one speaker? And is the new software basically like what the twk has...10 bands per channel?




No. You only have one 10-band PEQ bank when you bridge, which is plenty. You don’t need more than 3-5 bands of PEQ to eq a speaker. 

VXi adds shelving option for top and bottom band.


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## LOST_llama

@mssmith, first off great launch. The new Vxi amps look very promising. 

I have a few of quick questions...

1.) Will the Bluetooth accessory for the Vxi amps allow direct streaming into the amp?

2.) Will the TWK line be able to be controlled by the new iPad version of TuN?

3.) Is there a way to sum two different sources in the TuN software? Such as my factory U-Connect deck (for phone calls) and a streaming device so that when a call comes in the ring down would play over the streaming device? 

As always, thanks for making great products and having superb technical support.


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## Doubledeckersoulwrecker!

Will the Twk88 get the Tun software update also? Allpass & shelf filters would be a very welcomed edition


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## msmith

LOST_llama said:


> @mssmith, first off great launch. The new Vxi amps look very promising.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a few of quick questions...
> 
> 
> 
> 1.) Will the Bluetooth accessory for the Vxi amps allow direct streaming into the amp?
> 
> 
> 
> 2.) Will the TWK line be able to be controlled by the new iPad version of TuN?
> 
> 
> 
> 3.) Is there a way to sum two different sources in the TuN software? Such as my factory U-Connect deck (for phone calls) and a streaming device so that when a call comes in the ring down would play over the streaming device?
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for making great products and having superb technical support.




1) no
2) no
3) yes. The input mixer is VERY flexible.


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## msmith

Doubledeckersoulwrecker! said:


> Will the Twk88 get the Tun software update also? Allpass & shelf filters would be a very welcomed edition




Unfortunately, no.


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## rton20s

Just to subscribe and keep my comments from another thread in the appropriate VXI thread...

I do like what I was seeing in the new JL VXI amplifiers. Cool stuff. I played around with the iPad app yesterday and it was pretty slick. Very full featured, and it seems like they will be great for factory integration. Fine level of adjustment along with shelving and all pass filters are nice features. It would be cool to see some additional control over how the DRC operates (shelf filter for the subwoofer level).

I was slightly disappointed in the fact that the power numbers they were quoting at Knowledgefest were for 2 Ohm (not 4 Ohm) loads. Though, it isn't too surprising. 75 wpc @ 4 Ohms has been the JL standard for quite some time now and should be plenty for most active systems.


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## fish

Manville, 

Can you talk more on capabilities of the mobile Tune Express app? Just wasn't sure if you left anything out during your presentation.


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## bbfoto

First of all, THANK YOU Manville & JL Audio for adding Mac OSX software support! :thumbsup:




rton20s said:


> ...I was slightly disappointed in the fact that the power numbers they were quoting at Knowledgefest were for 2 Ohm (not 4 Ohm) loads. Though, it isn't too surprising. 75 wpc @ 4 Ohms has been the JL standard for quite some time now and should be plenty for most active systems.





msmith said:


> 4 ohm power is 75W per ch on the 400/4, 600/6, 800/8 and the main channels of the 5ch models.
> 
> The 600/2 is 200W x 2 at 4 ohms.


Sigh. 

Though these do look like another great option.

However, I seriously long for the day that reputable companies such as JL Audio start naming their amps for what they ACTUALLY put out in real world numbers at the car audio standard of 4 ohm impedance! WTF?!?! IME there are VERY FEW systems that run their main channels @ 2 ohms. 

The implied 8 x 100wpc @ 4 ohms is A LOT different than 8 x 75wpc @ 4 ohms.  

Sure, it's just 25wpc difference, but I'd greatly prefer an actual 100wpc over 75wpc @ 4 ohms even if the amp had to be slightly wider/longer/thicker. I would have really liked to have seen a 150wpc x 4, a 150wpc x 6, and 150wpc on the main channels of the 5-Channel "System" amps...negating the need to bridge and lose channels. The 150wpc x 6 would be a total of just 900w in a single chassis, which should be easily doable. It's kind of a bummer that JL seems to always leans toward the general consumer side, but I understand it from an overall business/ROI perspective.


A few (more) comments and some questions...

Holy Giant Connectors, Batman! The connectors essentially make these amps at least 2" wider overall. :/ Yeah, it looks like they are robust (certainly hope so), but still. You'll need that extra clearance just for the connectors, and then additional for the actual wire/cable clearance as well.

1. Are these amps physically STACKABLE like the HD series?

2. How Hot or "Warm" do these typically run in "normal" use, unbridged?

3. Do the amps have any Active Cooling, i.e. Temperature-Controlled Fans, etc?

4. At what actual Bit Depth and Sample Rate does the DSP throughput WITHOUT Up-/Down-Sampling? For example, if my digital source outputs my music file at 24-Bit/192kHz, will the DSP handle all input and processing at 24/192 THROUGHOUT the entire Signal Path until the final Analog output stage?

*EDIT: I did find some answers regarding the above question in the CE Outlook writeup @* *CE Outlook - JL Audio Intros DSP Amplifiers*

The article states that the VXi DSP does all processing at *24/96*. So I'm assuming it will Upsample and/or Downsample digital sources with lower or higher bit depths & sample rates respectively. I was personally hoping for 24/192 processing...might as well match the capabilities of the Toslink Optical/SPDIF interface, but nope. They would probably have to use more of AKM's chips to accommodate 24/192 on all output channels of the DSP/Amps, which means more $$$.

5. What is the maximum Digital Delay available for each channel?

*EDIT*: T/A increments are 0.01ms (1/8" or 3mm), but no Maximum Delay figure for each channel was given. What is it??

6. What are the complete controls and functions of the DRC-205?

7. In this day and age I would've really liked to have had *Apt-X HD* Bluetooth for media streaming directly from a SmartPhone or Tablet. You'll most likely already be using at least one of these devices for tuning/adjustment of the DSP, so why not allow wireless Hi-Res BT streaming from them directly to the VXi Hub/Amps??? Can the VXi-BTC adapter be updated in the future to accommodate this, or make a separate "higher spec" and more expensive "VXi-BTC-HD" available in the future???

I know that you can never please everyone, and mfg's have to make some compromises to keep costs in check. But with technology advancing rapidly in this segment, you need to incorporate as much of the goodness as you can for longevity and future-proofing.

Just my .02

...I'm interested to see how these progress.


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## bbfoto

LOST_llama said:


> @mssmith
> 
> I have a few of quick questions...
> ...
> 3.) Is there a way to sum two different sources in the TuN software? Such as my factory U-Connect deck (for phone calls) and a streaming device so that when a call comes in the ring tone would play over the streaming device?





msmith said:


> ...
> 3) yes. The input mixer is VERY flexible.



Manville, can you detail exactly how to set this up in the input matrix? 

For instance, in one of my vehicles I have an OEM source that I want to keep for AM/FM/HD tuner and CD/DVD with BT for Hands-Free Calls, Door/Backup/Parking Warning Chimes, etc, where I need to take the Speaker Level outputs of the OEM system and feed that into the VXi DSP/HUB.

Then I also have an 8" Tablet+DAC and a Portable DAP that outputs a Digital Optical or Coaxial signal, or a high-end Balanced or SE Analog signal, which I also want to connect to the Inputs of the VXi DSP/HUB. Can you set any of the Inputs to have PRIORITY, and Automatically Switch to the Prioritized Input when/if it has signal?...basically "signal-sensing" input switching?

This is what I currently do using the Helix DSP PRO/PRO MK II.

Q: Using the VXi system & the DRC-205 Remote, can you connect and Switch Between the following 3 _Different_ types of INPUTS: a stereo Line Level Input, a stereo Speaker Level Input, AND a stereo Digital Input???

Is there a downloadable User Manual that covers the Input Mixer/Matrix?

Is there a way to connect the VXi system to an OEM system that uses the "MOST" interface?

*EDIT: I did find some answers in the CE Outlook writeup @ **CE Outlook - JL Audio Intros DSP Amplifiers*

It does accept both Speaker Level AND Digital Optical (S/PDIF Toslink) Inputs. I'm not sure about having a Line Level input at the same time as well?

There IS Signal-Sensing or DC Offset turn on. Still not sure if you can choose a particular Input to have PRIORITY???


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## bbfoto

gumbeelee said:


> I like the looks of them I just cant get past the 10 bands of eq. I mean others might not mind but I prefer 31 bands. I guess helix has me spoiled but I do love all the different options amp/dsp JL is offering. Even though I dont like the tun software or 10 eq bands I will break down and buy one....


IMO, the main reason that 10 bands of PEQ per channel are completely adequate in the case of the VXi Amps/DSP is because they added the All-Pass & Shelf Filters for each channel. I think you'll be okay if you implement them properly. 

There are a lot of other "if, and, or but" questions on my end, but the EQ capability really isn't one of my concerns now.




fullergoku said:


> wonder how much delay is available?


The CE Outlook writeup states 0.01ms increments which is equivalent to 1/8" or 3mm, BUT it does not state the Total Amount of Digital Delay available on each channel.

*EDIT: rton20s discovered via the iPad TuN app that the Maximum Digital Delay is ~20ms for each channel. See his post below.*



diy.phil said:


> At low, medium and loud volume (sound/listening level), do these amps/boxes run cool, medium/warm or hot? Thanks.


I'd like to know the answers to both of the questions above as well. Might have to wait until Erin gets back from his family vacation if Manville or someone else doesn't chime in.


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## SnakeOil

bbfoto said:


> First of all, THANK YOU Manville & JL Audio for adding Mac OSX software support! :thumbsup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sigh.
> 
> Though these do look like another great option.
> 
> However, I seriously long for the day that reputable companies such as JL Audio start naming their amps for what they ACTUALLY put out in real world numbers at the car audio standard of 4 ohm impedance! WTF?!?! IME there are VERY FEW systems that run their main channels @ 2 ohms.
> 
> 8 x 100wpc @ 4 ohms is A LOT different than 8 x 75wpc @ 4 ohms.
> 
> Sure, it's just 25wpc difference, but I'd greatly prefer an actual 100wpc over 75wpc @ 4 ohms even if the amp had to be slightly wider/longer/thicker. I would have really liked to have seen a 150wpc x 4, a 150wpc x 6, and 150wpc on the main channels of the 5-Channel "System" amps...negating the need to bridge and lose channels. The 150wpc x 6 would be a total of just 900w in a single chassis, which should be easily doable. It's kind of a bummer that JL seems to always leans toward the general consumer side, but I understand it from an overall business/ROI perspective.
> 
> 
> A few (more) comments and some questions...
> 
> Holy Giant Connectors, Batman! The connectors essentially make these amps at least 2" wider overall. :/ Yeah, it looks like they are robust (certainly hope so), but still. You'll need that extra clearance just for the connectors, and then additional for the actual wire/cable clearance as well.
> 
> 1. Are these amps physically STACKABLE like the HD series?
> 
> 2. How Hot or "Warm" do these typically run in "normal" use, unbridged?
> 
> 3. Do the amps have any active cooling, temperature-controlled fans, etc?
> 
> 4. At what actual Bit Depth and Sample Rate does the DSP throughput WITHOUT Up-/Down-Sampling? For example, if my digital source outputs my music file at 24-Bit/192kHz, will the DSP handle all input and processing at 24/192 THROUGHOUT the entire Signal Path until the final Analog output stage?
> 
> 5. What is the maximum Digital Delay available for each channel?
> 
> 6. What are the complete controls and functions of the DRC-205?
> 
> 7. In this day and age I would've really liked to have had *Apt-X HD* Bluetooth for media streaming directly from a SmartPhone or Tablet. You'll most likely already be using at least one of these devices for tuning/adjustment of the DSP, so why not allow wireless Hi-Res BT streaming from them directly to the VXi Hub/Amps??? Can the VXi-BTC adapter be updated in the future to accommodate this, or make a separate "higher spec" and more expensive "VXi-BTC-HD" available in the future???
> 
> I know that you can never please everyone, and mfg's have to make some compromises to keep costs in check. But with technology advancing rapidly in this segment, you need to incorporate as much of the goodness as you can for longevity and future-proofing.
> 
> Just my .02
> 
> ...I'm interested to see how these progress.


Plenty go off 4 ohm power in the name. Just not mainstream brands.


----------



## ferret111

I'm wondering about the design goals regarding sound quality, are these supposed to be the best sounding JL amps? best measuring?


----------



## bertholomey

I’m looking forward to hearing these in a very well sorted vehicle in a few weeks - good job JL!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Onyx1136

Is it possible to change the orientation of the JL badge on the top of the amplifier?


----------



## bbfoto

Onyx1136 said:


> Is it possible to change the orientation of the JL badge on the top of the amplifier?


1st world problems.  That would be cool, tho'. 

More importantly, Do They STACK?


----------



## rton20s

I fired up the TuN app on the iPad Pro and simulated using the VX800/8i to check the max delay. I was able to get the first channel to 20.21 ms and the subsequent channels to 19.39 ms. Total delay for all channels is listed as 20.21 ms.


----------



## 89grand

They seem like nice amps, and my first purchase from JL Audio was around 1993, when I bought a 12W1 subwoofer, so I liked them as a car audio company then as well as today, but it seems to me that many of us use multiple amps, so wouldn't one be paying the price of the DSP for each amp in the system?

It seems only a single amp option, like a 5 channel, would make much financial sense, and only to someone that would only need one amp, but for the rest of us that want more than one amp, it seems to make less sense.

Am I missing something? Maybe I am, but one processor for the whole system is a lot cheaper than a processor in each amp, unless you only use one amp.


----------



## keep_hope_alive

Onyx1136 said:


> Is it possible to change the orientation of the JL badge on the top of the amplifier?


Yes! It comes unattached. 

I was part of the Beta group as well, and I ran it "incognito" with a panel that only let the LED shine through, no badge.









The badge is stuck on with the supplied two-sided foam tape (already attached to the badge). You can probably just heat it up to remove it and rotate as the system changes over the years.


----------



## keep_hope_alive

89grand said:


> They seem like nice amps, and my first purchase from JL Audio was around 1993, when I bought a 12W1 subwoofer, so I liked them as a car audio company then as well as today, but it seems to me that many of us use multiple amps, so wouldn't one be paying the price of the DSP for each amp in the system?
> 
> It seems only a single amp option, like a 5 channel, would make much financial sense, and only to someone that would only need one amp, but for the rest of us that want more than one amp, it seems to make less sense.
> 
> Am I missing something? Maybe I am, but one processor for the whole system is a lot cheaper than a processor in each amp, unless you only use one amp.


Here is the way I see it. Figure that you want DSP on every channel. And with external processors you quickly run into limits on how you can assign channels, how many channels are available, and how you want to cable to each of the amps from the processor. 

With the VXi you can network them for single control and have up to 40 channels (if you ran five 800/8) or any combination from 1-40. 

You can choose the first amp to be the AD converter then run fiber optic from there to the other amps (since each amp has an optical in and out). That simplifies cabling and maintains a consistent digital signal. 

I replaced an Alpine PXA-H800 feeding an Audison LRX5.1k with one VX1000/5i. It's about $1,300 cheaper. 

In another car I replaced two JL HD600/4 and one HD1200/1 fed from a PXA-H800 with a VX800/8i and VX1000/1i. In that car the 800/8 feeds a signal to the 1000/1 and offers a single point of control. About a grand cheaper and more flexible. 

The price point is in-line with similar amplifiers and usually cheaper than the amp/processor combo so you're getting flexibility in how you want to configure the amps with a single point of control, smaller overall footprint, and more flexibility.


----------



## Bnlcmbcar

ferret111 said:


> I'm wondering about the design goals regarding sound quality, are these supposed to be the best sounding JL amps? best measuring?


*JL Audio VP of Electrical Engineering, Dr. Stephen Leigh* stated that:
“ the VXi is the 2nd generation of JL’s core Class D amplifier technology which is NexD2. The engineers did a ton of work to improve the technology by using a direct FET design which offers advantages in terms of layout and heat dissipation. This keeps the amplifiers cooler allowing them to be more compact. ‘Compact’ was a major goal of this product as shown in its design and dimensions. *Compactness, extremely high sound quality, flexibility, and a built in DSP feature set all for the sake of simplifying the ability to achieve great results.*”

Sounds pretty cool.. I too wonder if whether the HD amps are still the more technologically “advanced” Class D amp in regards to signal reproduction due to its Single-Cycle Control switching design and R.I.P.S. technology??

Without hearing them yet, I’m currently seeing this as a TwK + XDv3 amp + more in a compact unit.

I’m really glad to see the mobile tablet tuning capabilities. Finally a DSP controller with “access” similar the Alpine C-800 controller granting users the power to tune and alter system settings without always requiring one to use a laptop. 

Also digging that all the VXi units having S/PDIF digital input and S/PDIF digital output up to 24 bit/96 kHz. I too see the potential for a lot of interesting builds with these!

Digital source + digital miniDSP Dirac or Open DRC units + your required network of VXi amps = An active architecture that is able achieve powerful tuning capacity!


----------



## TerryGreen5986

Bnlcmbcar said:


> *JL Audio VP of Electrical Engineering, Dr. Stephen Leigh* stated that:
> 
> “ the VXi is the 2nd generation of JL’s core Class D amplifier technology which is NexD2. The engineers did a ton of work to improve the technology by using a direct FET design which offers advantages in terms of layout and heat dissipation. This keeps the amplifiers cooler allowing them to be more compact. ‘Compact’ was a major goal of this product as shown in its design and dimensions. *Compactness, extremely high sound quality, flexibility, and a built in DSP feature set all for the sake of simplifying the ability to achieve great results.*”
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds pretty cool.. I too wonder if whether the HD amps are still the more technologically “advanced” Class D amp in regards to signal reproduction due to its Single-Cycle Control switching design and R.I.P.S. technology??
> 
> 
> 
> Without hearing them yet, I’m currently seeing this as a FiX + TwK + XDv3 amp + more in a compact unit.
> 
> 
> 
> I’m really glad to see the mobile tablet tuning capabilities. Finally a DSP controller with “access” similar the Alpine C-800 controller granting users the power to tune and alter system settings without always requiring one to use a laptop.
> 
> 
> 
> Also digging that all the VXi units having S/PDIF digital input and S/PDIF digital output up to 24 bit/96 kHz. I too see the potential for a lot of interesting builds with these!
> 
> 
> 
> Digital source + digital miniDSP Dirac or Open DRC units + your required network of VXi amps = An active architecture that is able achieve powerful tuning capacity!




Just to note, the Fix part is incorrect. If you need to get rid of Factory EQ, u will still need a Fix if using the VXi 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## keep_hope_alive

Bnlcmbcar said:


> *
> 
> Sounds pretty cool.. I too wonder if whether the HD amps are still the more technologically “advanced” Class D amp in regards to signal reproduction due to its Single-Cycle Control switching design and R.I.P.S. technology??
> 
> Without hearing them yet, I’m currently seeing this as a FiX + TwK + XDv3 amp + more in a compact unit.
> 
> I’m really glad to see the mobile tablet tuning capabilities. Finally a DSP controller with “access” similar the Alpine C-800 controller granting users the power to tune and alter system settings without always requiring one to use a laptop.
> 
> !*


*

They sound good. Coming from the Audison, I was curious what I would think. I don't feel like i am losing tonality. The way the clock signal is distributed probably plays a large role in this.

The sound stage is really good and deeper than before, an adjustable all pass filter is a nice addition I am playing with. 

Being an Alpine guy, i always appreciate controls up front. I love my C800, but after adding the DRC and BT module, I have more function than before. The tuning setup can be recalled from the amp so as you switch control devices, you can access even if it's the first time the tablet or phone has been used.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk*


----------



## ccap41

I know these are out of my price range but they're still exciting to see new stuff come down the line.

Is this an additional line or will it be replacing one they currently have? If they aren't replacing something they might be starting to stretch themselves a little too thin.


----------



## Hillbilly SQ

With 20ms of delay it looks like l-r rearfill is possible. Is it possible to do that with the processor or do you have to do it in the wiring at the speakers?


----------



## Bnlcmbcar

TerryGreen5986 said:


> Just to note, the Fix part is incorrect. If you need to get rid of Factory EQ, u will still need a Fix if using the VXi


Thanks! Good to know. For some reason I was thinking that it was possible to EQ and time delay the inputs possibly allowing someone to manually ‘FiX’ an OEM signal.


----------



## 89grand

bbfoto said:


> However, I seriously long for the day that reputable companies such as JL Audio start naming their amps for what they ACTUALLY put out in real world numbers at the car audio standard of 4 ohm impedance! WTF?!?! IME there are VERY FEW systems that run their main channels @ 2 ohms.


Some companies did the same even back in the 90's. The PPI Art series for example. I had an A200 and a A600.2, and those were the 2 ohm, or 4 ohm mono total output. The 200 was 50w x 2 or 200 bridged, and the A600.2 was 150w x 2 or 600 bridged.


----------



## SQ Audi

BigAl205 said:


> Can I hold it?


I worry about you my friend.


----------



## SQ Audi

I am very intrigued with these new amplifiers. I am going a bit off kilter here. But bear with me.

For my needs, I would be going with two of the 800/8's and one 1000/1. I am building a demo car with 16 speakers (in stock locations) and will have 4 subwoofers. I doubt I will compete with it, but if the DSP is any bit as salty as I think it will be, I may just have to go to a few shows to see how good I do.


----------



## BigAl205

SQ Audi said:


> I am building a demo car with 16 speakers (in stock locations) and will have 4 subwoofers.


And you worry about me?


----------



## Babs

It’ll be interesting how it pans out with the line up with these in the mix now. Placing bets on which older design gets the axe.. HD or XDv2.. I’m betting HD because given the whole DSP direct to amp Stage platform among a dozen other improvements, the result will definitely tread hard into that top-SQ territory where the HD’s enjoyed a long stay. 

I’ll be very anxious to hear these in a couple weeks at NCSQ.. Anyone with cash, show up and drive home with my XD’s and Helix Pro-2 if these VXi’s are truly all that and a bucket of chicken. Unless I keep the other gear for the truck. Hmm I need to think through this. 

Either way.. Bravo JL!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## SQ Audi

BigAl205 said:


> And you worry about me?


PM Me, I will tell you everything. It is not my design, but, it may be the best for my needs.


----------



## quickaudi07

The only downfall i see is that these little guys are Class D, vs AB, I just dont like Class D so much, or maybe its just my ears. 

Hope they have improved, and build in DSP is kinda cool idea.


----------



## KillerBox

SQ Audi said:


> For my needs, I would be going with two of the 800/8's and one 1000/1. I am building a demo car with 16 speakers (in stock locations) and will have 4 subwoofers. I doubt I will compete with it, but if the DSP is any bit as salty as I think it will be, I may just have to go to a few shows to see how good I do.


I like the way you think! I have did a 7.1 system with 20 drivers total (including the 2 subwoofers). Mostly in the stock locations.

I have never even been to a stereo contest but, it does put a big smile on my face when I listen to it!


----------



## Hillbilly SQ

quickaudi07 said:


> The only downfall i see is that these little guys are Class D, vs AB, I just dont like Class D so much, or maybe its just my ears.
> 
> Hope they have improved, and build in DSP is kinda cool idea.


If they "sound" like the XDv2 they should be awesome. Clean sounding amps. My next vehicle will probably be cramped on space for audio and the VXI800/8 would be the perfect amp for it. Had an 800/8v2 running a 3-way plus sub in my Ram and it was awesome.


----------



## SQ Audi

KillerBox said:


> I like the way you think! I have did a 7.1 system with 20 drivers total (including the 2 subwoofers). Mostly in the stock locations.
> 
> I have never even been to a stereo contest but, it does put a big smile on my face when I listen to it!


My car has the Lexicon 17 speaker surround sound as well, and I want to replicate that with aftermarket speakers. We will see how it turns out but the VXi's sound like the amps for me.


----------



## Babs

Hillbilly SQ said:


> If they "sound" like the XDv2 they should be awesome. Clean sounding amps. My next vehicle will probably be cramped on space for audio and the VXI800/8 would be the perfect amp for it. Had an 800/8v2 running a 3-way plus sub in my Ram and it was awesome.



I imagine with the nextD2 iteration and the direct integration with the AKM DAC stage, along with a slew of updated Engineering I vaguely recall Manville mentioning during the live feed release, I suspect they’ll better the XDv2 significantly.. which is by itself an excellent class D amp line. The lack of need for analog interconnects at all between DSP stage and amp is significant I think. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## rton20s

I think as others have mentioned, the VXi appears to provide all of the benefits of a TwK+XDv2 (with some apparent amp technology and DSP improvements) in a smaller package without a significant price bump. Without having any hands on experience with the VXi, it seems like a winner. More complicated systems like Joe mentioned above might warrant more careful examination. 

Thinking of a "basic" 2-way + sub DSP install, traditionally from JL you might look at a TwK-88 and and XD1000/5v2. Right now that retails for around $1180. Well, for $19 more you can get the VX1000/5i with the upgraded DSP and amp providing the same power in a smaller package. It would also seem you have better/simpler expandability with the VXi system if you decide to add on to the original install. 

But, if you look at something like Joe Wallis's somewhat unusual 20 driver installation. That requires up to 17 channels of DSP. Depending on the system, assume he can pull it off with a pair of TwK-88s, a pair XD800/8v2s and an XD1000/1v2 that is nearly $2800 worth of gear. Under the new VXi system, he would get a pair of VX800/8is and a VX1000/1i for $3600 + VXi-HUB. Even if he added a third TwK-88, there is still a decent savings with the "traditional" XDv2 setup. 

Then it becomes a more a matter of how much you value the saved space, DSP improvements, better coordination of multiple DSPs and amplifier improvements.


----------



## TerryGreen5986

Very interested in how much the Hub is gonna cost 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## What?

diy.phil said:


> Thanks guys for the pictures/info!!
> Can I feed it without using an LC2i? (read as: really high power input from a H/K amp).
> (More pictures please, maybe from others too that have played with it!)


16V input
XDv2 and HD are 8V


----------



## bbfoto

Does anyone have LxWxH measurements for any or all of the VXi amplifiers and the VXI-HUB???

Are these amps physically stackable like the HD amps?

Is the Top Panel plastic or aluminum?



Weird that there is no information on the JL Audio web site but info is posted on Crutchfield.


----------



## bbfoto

TerryGreen5986 said:


> Very interested in how much the Hub is gonna cost


Crutchfield has it listed for $119.99

The DRC-205 is $79.99

The VXi-BTC is $99.99

*Crutchfield JL Audio VXi Lineup*


----------



## rton20s

bbfoto said:


> Does anyone have LxWxH measurements for any or all of the VXi amplifiers and the VXI-HUB???
> 
> Are these amps physically stackable like the HD amps?
> 
> Weird that there is no information on the JL Audio web site.


If you google search specific models, their respective pages are now up on Crutchfield. No PDF manuals just yet. For instance...

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-XCTr7YgCXX7/p_13698633/JL-Audio-VX800-8i.html


----------



## Bnlcmbcar

Short PDF manual for the VX1000/5i:

https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20180316185000/Manuals/136/13698632.PDF


Short PDF manual for the VX8000/8i:

https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20180316185000/Manuals/136/13698633.PDF


----------



## msmith

fish said:


> Manville,
> 
> 
> 
> Can you talk more on capabilities of the mobile Tune Express app? Just wasn't sure if you left anything out during your presentation.




TuN Express accesses a simplified feature set, comparable to that found on a conventional amplifier. In fact, the interface is designed to mimic the familiar physical controls and layout of an XD amplifier. 

You can adjust, input routing (limited), turn-on mode, DRC mode. Each channel pair has a high pass filter and a low pass filter with 12 or 24 dB/oct. L-R slopes. You also adjust input sens. and output trim for each channel pair on the app.

You do NOT get delay, EQ, polarity, all-pass filters with TuN Express.

It was designed for people who didn’t want to get into the deep end of the pool with DSP.

TuN Mobile (the tablet app) is full-featured.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## msmith

bbfoto said:


> First of all, THANK YOU Manville & JL Audio for adding Mac OSX software support! :thumbsup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sigh.
> 
> 
> 
> Though these do look like another great option.
> 
> 
> 
> However, I seriously long for the day that reputable companies such as JL Audio start naming their amps for what they ACTUALLY put out in real world numbers at the car audio standard of 4 ohm impedance! WTF?!?! IME there are VERY FEW systems that run their main channels @ 2 ohms.
> 
> 
> 
> The implied 8 x 100wpc @ 4 ohms is A LOT different than 8 x 75wpc @ 4 ohms.
> 
> 
> 
> Sure, it's just 25wpc difference, but I'd greatly prefer an actual 100wpc over 75wpc @ 4 ohms even if the amp had to be slightly wider/longer/thicker. I would have really liked to have seen a 150wpc x 4, a 150wpc x 6, and 150wpc on the main channels of the 5-Channel "System" amps...negating the need to bridge and lose channels. The 150wpc x 6 would be a total of just 900w in a single chassis, which should be easily doable. It's kind of a bummer that JL seems to always leans toward the general consumer side, but I understand it from an overall business/ROI perspective.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few (more) comments and some questions...
> 
> 
> 
> Holy Giant Connectors, Batman! The connectors essentially make these amps at least 2" wider overall. :/ Yeah, it looks like they are robust (certainly hope so), but still. You'll need that extra clearance just for the connectors, and then additional for the actual wire/cable clearance as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Are these amps physically STACKABLE like the HD series?
> 
> 
> 
> 2. How Hot or "Warm" do these typically run in "normal" use, unbridged?
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Do the amps have any Active Cooling, i.e. Temperature-Controlled Fans, etc?
> 
> 
> 
> 4. At what actual Bit Depth and Sample Rate does the DSP throughput WITHOUT Up-/Down-Sampling? For example, if my digital source outputs my music file at 24-Bit/192kHz, will the DSP handle all input and processing at 24/192 THROUGHOUT the entire Signal Path until the final Analog output stage?
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT: I did find some answers regarding the above question in the CE Outlook writeup @* *CE Outlook - JL Audio Intros DSP Amplifiers*
> 
> 
> 
> The article states that the VXi DSP does all processing at *24/96*. So I'm assuming it will Upsample and/or Downsample digital sources with lower or higher bit depths & sample rates respectively. I was personally hoping for 24/192 processing...might as well match the capabilities of the Toslink Optical/SPDIF interface, but nope. They would probably have to use more of AKM's chips to accommodate 24/192 on all output channels of the DSP/Amps, which means more $$$.
> 
> 
> 
> 5. What is the maximum Digital Delay available for each channel?
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*: T/A increments are 0.01ms (1/8" or 3mm), but no Maximum Delay figure for each channel was given. What is it??
> 
> 
> 
> 6. What are the complete controls and functions of the DRC-205?
> 
> 
> 
> 7. In this day and age I would've really liked to have had *Apt-X HD* Bluetooth for media streaming directly from a SmartPhone or Tablet. You'll most likely already be using at least one of these devices for tuning/adjustment of the DSP, so why not allow wireless Hi-Res BT streaming from them directly to the VXi Hub/Amps??? Can the VXi-BTC adapter be updated in the future to accommodate this, or make a separate "higher spec" and more expensive "VXi-BTC-HD" available in the future???
> 
> 
> 
> I know that you can never please everyone, and mfg's have to make some compromises to keep costs in check. But with technology advancing rapidly in this segment, you need to incorporate as much of the goodness as you can for longevity and future-proofing.
> 
> 
> 
> Just my .02
> 
> 
> 
> ...I'm interested to see how these progress.




Holy moley, dude... a lot of questions. 

The website is now up and the software is pretty self-explanatory in showing you what the various features do.

The model numbering system is one we have been following for many years now. I see your point, but it’s not like we hide the 4 ohm ratings. 

The connectors are as small as they can be while still doing the job. There are a lot of “innies and outies” going on, and the amps are pretty small. The fact they are all removable without tools makes it easier to install. You can make all your connections without the amp being in the way. 

Stacking is certainly possible, although we don’t offer any hardware for that purpose. An installer can figure it out, I’m sure. There is no issue with running them stacked. I run a VX800/8i and VX1000/1i stacked in my car with no thermal issues.

They run pretty cool. The whole chassis is pretty massive and they are very efficient.

No fans, we hate fans... they make noise and they can fail. No thanks. 

The amps process at 24 bits/96 kHz. The amp will accept 24 bits/192 kHz at its inputs, but will downsample to 24/96. The digital preouts are 24/96

Maximum delay is 20.21 ms on each channel

DRC 205 can be programmed to do different things via the Tun app. The push button function toggles presets (an LED ring displays a color for each one). The inner knob is generally used as a volume knob, but you can decide which channels it affects. The outer ring can be a second volume know, or a fader, or a sub level. 

No built-in streaming BT. Our VXi-BTC connection is LE (low energy). We sell a really great little BT streaming device with AptX for $39.99 if you want one. (MBT-RX)... Internal BT does not play nice with all the high power switching going on inside the chassis, and BT changes too often to commit to the present standard on a product with a long life cycle. 

Hope that helps. We sure appreciate your interest and your feedback!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## msmith

bbfoto said:


> Manville, can you detail exactly how to set this up in the input matrix?
> 
> 
> 
> For instance, in one of my vehicles I have an OEM source that I want to keep for AM/FM/HD tuner and CD/DVD with BT for Hands-Free Calls, Door/Backup/Parking Warning Chimes, etc, where I need to take the Speaker Level outputs of the OEM system and feed that into the VXi DSP/HUB.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I also have an 8" Tablet+DAC and a Portable DAP that outputs a Digital Optical or Coaxial signal, or a high-end Balanced or SE Analog signal, which I also want to connect to the Inputs of the VXi DSP/HUB. Can you set any of the Inputs to have PRIORITY, and Automatically Switch to the Prioritized Input when/if it has signal?...basically "signal-sensing" input switching?
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I currently do using the Helix DSP PRO/PRO MK II.
> 
> 
> 
> Q: Using the VXi system & the DRC-205 Remote, can you connect and Switch Between the following 3 _Different_ types of INPUTS: a stereo Line Level Input, a stereo Speaker Level Input, AND a stereo Digital Input???
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a downloadable User Manual that covers the Input Mixer/Matrix?
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a way to connect the VXi system to an OEM system that uses the "MOST" interface?
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT: I did find some answers in the CE Outlook writeup @ **CE Outlook - JL Audio Intros DSP Amplifiers*
> 
> 
> 
> It does accept both Speaker Level AND Digital Optical (S/PDIF Toslink) Inputs. I'm not sure about having a Line Level input at the same time as well?
> 
> 
> 
> There IS Signal-Sensing or DC Offset turn on. Still not sure if you can choose a particular Input to have PRIORITY???




Wow... complex question. Depending on the amp, you have the same number of analog inputs as you have outputs. So, an 8-ch would give you four pairs of analog inputs, plus the digital input.

You can assign different input assignments and routing for each preset in your project. So, you can use it as a source switcher. You can also mix inputs together. 

The speaker level inputs are the same as the line inputs. It’s just a matter of setting the input sensitivity appropriately. There are no dedicated high level inputs. The differential balanced inputs we use can handle up to 16 V RMS. If you need to handle more, you will need a voltage divider, or an active LOC.

There is no auto switching of inputs. You will need to change presets to select between different presets (or mute certain sources when playing others and mix the inputs). The signal sensing circuit for turn-on is assigned to Input 1 and cannot be changed. 

I have a MOST 50 system in my Cadillac and I use a NavTV GM650 interface, which outputs a S/PDIF digital signal to my VXi amps. Works beautifully and retains all vehicle functions. The amp will not accept a MOST connection directly.

Hope I got you answers to most of your questions. Thanks for your interest!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## msmith

ferret111 said:


> I'm wondering about the design goals regarding sound quality, are these supposed to be the best sounding JL amps? best measuring?



We did a lot of work on the Class D circuitry in the VXi’s. They feature full DSP clock sync of all full-range channels, a reduced loop area layout with caps right at the outputs, DirectFET MOSFETs for improved thermal performance and efficiency. It’s worthy of comparison to any other amp, of any type. 

I am incredibly impressed with how great they sound. Very quiet, with outstanding resolution and detail. Try them and see what you think. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## msmith

Onyx1136 said:


> Is it possible to change the orientation of the JL badge on the top of the amplifier?




Yes, in 90 degree increments. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## msmith

Bnlcmbcar said:


> *JL Audio VP of Electrical Engineering, Dr. Stephen Leigh* stated that:
> 
> “ the VXi is the 2nd generation of JL’s core Class D amplifier technology which is NexD2. The engineers did a ton of work to improve the technology by using a direct FET design which offers advantages in terms of layout and heat dissipation. This keeps the amplifiers cooler allowing them to be more compact. ‘Compact’ was a major goal of this product as shown in its design and dimensions. *Compactness, extremely high sound quality, flexibility, and a built in DSP feature set all for the sake of simplifying the ability to achieve great results.*”
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds pretty cool.. I too wonder if whether the HD amps are still the more technologically “advanced” Class D amp in regards to signal reproduction due to its Single-Cycle Control switching design and R.I.P.S. technology??
> 
> 
> 
> Without hearing them yet, I’m currently seeing this as a TwK + XDv3 amp + more in a compact unit.
> 
> 
> 
> I’m really glad to see the mobile tablet tuning capabilities. Finally a DSP controller with “access” similar the Alpine C-800 controller granting users the power to tune and alter system settings without always requiring one to use a laptop.
> 
> 
> 
> Also digging that all the VXi units having S/PDIF digital input and S/PDIF digital output up to 24 bit/96 kHz. I too see the potential for a lot of interesting builds with these!
> 
> 
> 
> Digital source + digital miniDSP Dirac or Open DRC units + your required network of VXi amps = An active architecture that is able achieve powerful tuning capacity!




HD is more complicated, that’s for sure, but I don’t think they’re better than VXi, other than being a little more powerful. I don’t miss my HD’s one bit after going with these.


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## msmith

Hillbilly SQ said:


> With 20ms of delay it looks like l-r rearfill is possible. Is it possible to do that with the processor or do you have to do it in the wiring at the speakers?




The input mixer will do that. Just flip the polarity of the “minus” channel and adjust the mix of L-R with the trim controls. You can’t do that at the speaker level. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## msmith

Bnlcmbcar said:


> Thanks! Good to know. For some reason I was thinking that it was possible to EQ and time delay the inputs possibly allowing someone to manually ‘FiX’ an OEM signal.




There is a way to do that... you run your signals into the amp and route them through the pre-out EQ, then run the pre-outs back into another input pair (or the digital input). Voilá, an input EQ!

Cool, huh? 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## msmith

bbfoto said:


> Does anyone have LxWxH measurements for any or all of the VXi amplifiers and the VXI-HUB???
> 
> 
> 
> Are these amps physically stackable like the HD amps?
> 
> 
> 
> Is the Top Panel plastic or aluminum?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Weird that there is no information on the JL Audio web site but info is posted on Crutchfield.




Website is now up with all the info... 

Top panel is extruded, grained and machined aluminum with dark anodizing and an oleophobic coating to prevent fingerprints. (you asked). 

They can be stacked, but we don’t currently sell hardware for that purpose. A good installer could easily figure it out. 



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## LOST_llama

msmith said:


> bbfoto said:
> 
> 
> 
> First of all, THANK YOU Manville & JL Audio for adding Mac OSX software support!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sigh. <img src="http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Frown" class="inlineimg" />
> 
> 
> 
> Though these do look like another great option.
> 
> 
> 
> However, I seriously long for the day that reputable companies such as JL Audio start naming their amps for what they ACTUALLY put out in real world numbers at the car audio standard of 4 ohm impedance! WTF?!?! IME there are VERY FEW systems that run their main channels @ 2 ohms. <img src="http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/images/smilies/confused.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Confused" class="inlineimg" />
> 
> 
> 
> The implied 8 x 100wpc @ 4 ohms is A LOT different than 8 x 75wpc @ 4 ohms. <img src="http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)" class="inlineimg" />
> 
> 
> 
> Sure, it's just 25wpc difference, but I'd greatly prefer an actual 100wpc over 75wpc @ 4 ohms even if the amp had to be slightly wider/longer/thicker. I would have really liked to have seen a 150wpc x 4, a 150wpc x 6, and 150wpc on the main channels of the 5-Channel "System" amps...negating the need to bridge and lose channels. The 150wpc x 6 would be a total of just 900w in a single chassis, which should be easily doable. It's kind of a bummer that JL seems to always leans toward the general consumer side, but I understand it from an overall business/ROI perspective.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few (more) comments and some questions...
> 
> 
> 
> Holy Giant Connectors, Batman! The connectors essentially make these amps at least 2" wider overall. :/ Yeah, it looks like they are robust (certainly hope so), but still. You'll need that extra clearance just for the connectors, and then additional for the actual wire/cable clearance as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Are these amps physically STACKABLE like the HD series?
> 
> 
> 
> 2. How Hot or "Warm" do these typically run in "normal" use, unbridged?
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Do the amps have any Active Cooling, i.e. Temperature-Controlled Fans, etc?
> 
> 
> 
> 4. At what actual Bit Depth and Sample Rate does the DSP throughput WITHOUT Up-/Down-Sampling? For example, if my digital source outputs my music file at 24-Bit/192kHz, will the DSP handle all input and processing at 24/192 THROUGHOUT the entire Signal Path until the final Analog output stage?
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT: I did find some answers regarding the above question in the CE Outlook writeup @* *CE Outlook - JL Audio Intros DSP Amplifiers*
> 
> 
> 
> The article states that the VXi DSP does all processing at *24/96*. So I'm assuming it will Upsample and/or Downsample digital sources with lower or higher bit depths & sample rates respectively. I was personally hoping for 24/192 processing...might as well match the capabilities of the Toslink Optical/SPDIF interface, but nope. They would probably have to use more of AKM's chips to accommodate 24/192 on all output channels of the DSP/Amps, which means more $$$.
> 
> 
> 
> 5. What is the maximum Digital Delay available for each channel?
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*: T/A increments are 0.01ms (1/8" or 3mm), but no Maximum Delay figure for each channel was given. What is it??
> 
> 
> 
> 6. What are the complete controls and functions of the DRC-205?
> 
> 
> 
> 7. In this day and age I would've really liked to have had *Apt-X HD* Bluetooth for media streaming directly from a SmartPhone or Tablet. You'll most likely already be using at least one of these devices for tuning/adjustment of the DSP, so why not allow wireless Hi-Res BT streaming from them directly to the VXi Hub/Amps??? Can the VXi-BTC adapter be updated in the future to accommodate this, or make a separate "higher spec" and more expensive "VXi-BTC-HD" available in the future???
> 
> 
> 
> I know that you can never please everyone, and mfg's have to make some compromises to keep costs in check. But with technology advancing rapidly in this segment, you need to incorporate as much of the goodness as you can for longevity and future-proofing.
> 
> 
> 
> Just my .02
> 
> 
> 
> ...I'm interested to see how these progress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Holy moley, dude... a lot of questions. <img src="http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Big Grin" class="inlineimg" />
> 
> The website is now up and the software is pretty self-explanatory in showing you what the various features do.
> 
> The model numbering system is one we have been following for many years now. I see your point, but it’s not like we hide the 4 ohm ratings.
> 
> The connectors are as small as they can be while still doing the job. There are a lot of “innies and outies” going on, and the amps are pretty small. The fact they are all removable without tools makes it easier to install. You can make all your connections without the amp being in the way.
> 
> Stacking is certainly possible, although we don’t offer any hardware for that purpose. An installer can figure it out, I’m sure. There is no issue with running them stacked. I run a VX800/8i and VX1000/1i stacked in my car with no thermal issues.
> 
> They run pretty cool. The whole chassis is pretty massive and they are very efficient.
> 
> No fans, we hate fans... they make noise and they can fail. No thanks.
> 
> The amps process at 24 bits/96 kHz. The amp will accept 24 bits/192 kHz at its inputs, but will downsample to 24/96. The digital preouts are 24/96
> 
> Maximum delay is 20.21 ms on each channel
> 
> DRC 205 can be programmed to do different things via the Tun app. The push button function toggles presets (an LED ring displays a color for each one). The inner knob is generally used as a volume knob, but you can decide which channels it affects. The outer ring can be a second volume know, or a fader, or a sub level.
> 
> No built-in streaming BT. Our VXi-BTC connection is LE (low energy). We sell a really great little BT streaming device with AptX for $39.99 if you want one. (MBT-RX)... Internal BT does not play nice with all the high power switching going on inside the chassis, and BT changes too often to commit to the present standard on a product with a long life cycle.
> 
> Hope that helps. We sure appreciate your interest and your feedback!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Manville, any photos of your Cadillac set up? What are you running off of the 800 and 1000 VXi’s?


----------



## msmith

LOST_llama said:


> Manville, any photos of your Cadillac set up? What are you running off of the 800 and 1000 VXi’s?



The interior looks basically stock. I have a C7-650cw in the door, a C7-350cm in the dash and a C7-100ct tweeter in the pillar. There is also a C7-350cm in the center dash location. The subwoofer is one of our marine infinite-baffle 10-inch woofers (M10IB5) bolted to the factory subwoofer hole in the rear deck, with an adaptor. All of these are factory locations, and the speakers are behind factory grilles.

Rear speakers are the stock Bose speakers. 

A VX800/8i runs all the speakers, except for the subwoofer. Six channels drive the C7 3-way systems (left and right), one channel runs the center speaker and the remaining channel drives the rear door speakers in mono. A VX1000/1i runs the subwoofer (a bit of overkill, really). 

The only other box in the car is a NavTV GM650 MOST interface, which provides a digital optical audio signal to the VXi amplifiers.

Here is a picture of the amps and the sub in the trunk. Very simple.

 https://www.dropbox.com/s/rhqumt8wisozzv1/IMG_8575.JPG?dl=0


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## Flyhogz

Will the TüN software incorporated into the new amps follow in the footsteps of the non-intuitive asymmetric Q factor design of the initial offerings? Asking for a friend that has difficulties with grade school division. 

Also, with respect to the 10 band limit for PEQ, is it possible that this can be expanded in future software updates? Or is this a hardware limitation. While I understand the premise that 5 bands of PEQ is enough... It seems limiting in a 2-way setup. 

Again, asking for a friend. I want the amps. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Smash

Do you have to have the networking hub if you install two of the amps? Or can they connect together if it's just two of them?


----------



## bbfoto

msmith said:


> Website is now up with _all_ the info...
> 
> Top panel is extruded, grained and machined aluminum with dark anodizing and an oleophobic coating to prevent fingerprints. (you asked).
> 
> They can be stacked, but we don’t currently sell hardware for that purpose. A good installer could easily figure it out.


Manville, THANK YOU for taking the time to answer my many questions. ??


Of course, in light of this new information, I now have further questions. 

1. I didn't see any specific product pages or info on the JL Audio website for the VXi-HUB, VXi-BTC, or DRC-205. Will that information be available soon?

2. If we use the VXi-HUB, does the VXi-BTC Bluetooth adapter plug into the HUB to accommodate quick & easy switching between multiple VXi amps in order to make DSP adjustments between the two or more DSP/amps using the TüN Mobile app?

3. Does this AMAZING, extruded, grained & anodized, oleophobic-coated aluminum Top Cover provide any EMI or RF shielding or thermal dissipation properties???... 

...In one of my current installs I have two Alpine PDX 2nd Gen amplifiers Stacked, which equates to a total of 4" of thickness, which happens to be the absolute maximum available for this mounting location. With the JL Audio VXi amplifiers each being 2.125" thick, two of them stacked equates to _at least_ 4.25" of thickness instead of just 4.0". I want to Remove Both Top Covers on the VXi amplifiers so that they would *potentially* fit in this existing space when stacked. Disregarding voiding the warranty for now, would you advise against this?

4. How do you derive and/or Connect To the ANALOG Pre-Outs on the VXi amps to pass that Line Level signal on to another non-DSP amp that only has RCA inputs? ...Through the DB-25 connector & pigtail and then setting it up in the input/routing matrix? (I didn't see any RCA connectors on any of the VXi amps).

5. When utilizing the 2-channel Digital OR Analog Pre-Outs on the VXi amplifiers, do those channels have the COMPLETE Set of VXi Processing Capabilities available, or are they limited in any way???

6. How is the isolation & elimination of noise and the different PSUs handled between the noisy class D amplifier circuitry and the sensitive AKM digital input/ADC/DAC/DSP sections?

7. Disregarding subjective listening impressions, which amplifier measures best on your Audio Precision test rig between the new VXi series and the older flagship HD-series amplifiers?

That's all...for now!  TIA


----------



## LOST_llama

msmith said:


> The interior looks basically stock. I have a C7-650cw in the door, a C7-350cm in the dash and a C7-100ct tweeter in the pillar. There is also a C7-350cm in the center dash location. The subwoofer is one of our marine infinite-baffle 10-inch woofers (M10IB5) bolted to the factory subwoofer hole in the rear deck, with an adaptor. All of these are factory locations, and the speakers are behind factory grilles.
> 
> Rear speakers are the stock Bose speakers.
> 
> A VX800/8i runs all the speakers, except for the subwoofer. Six channels drive the C7 3-way systems (left and right), one channel runs the center speaker and the remaining channel drives the rear door speakers in mono. A VX1000/1i runs the subwoofer (a bit of overkill, really).
> 
> The only other box in the car is a NavTV GM650 MOST interface, which provides a digital optical audio signal to the VXi amplifiers.
> 
> Here is a picture of the amps and the sub in the trunk. Very simple.
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/rhqumt8wisozzv1/IMG_8575.JPG?dl=0
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Manville, thanks for the details and the photo. Looks like a CTS? Very clean. I would love to get a demo of it. Are you going to bring it to SBN?

I currently have an XD400/4 bridged to two channels running my ZR650's in my doors and another 400/4 running active on my 3.5” point source drivers in my pillars. A 500/3 runs my sub and rear speakers.

I am contemplating switching to a 800/8 VXi to run everything but the sub, but am concerned about going to only 75 watts per ZR. 

How impactful are your C7’s with the 75 watts from the 800/8? What crossover points are you using?

As always, thanks!

Brian


----------



## msmith

Flyhogz said:


> Will the TüN software incorporated into the new amps follow in the footsteps of the non-intuitive asymmetric Q factor design of the initial offerings? Asking for a friend that has difficulties with grade school division.
> 
> Also, with respect to the 10 band limit for PEQ, is it possible that this can be expanded in future software updates? Or is this a hardware limitation. While I understand the premise that 5 bands of PEQ is enough... It seems limiting in a 2-way setup.
> 
> Again, asking for a friend. I want the amps.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



VXi uses symmetrical filters. There was a little too much confusion with the TwK style alignments.

It would be difficult to change the 10 band limit. You can repurpose the Preouts EQ banks by looping them back into another input to have as many as 20 bands of PEQ, if needed, or to use the Preouts EQ banks as input EQ banks. It’s just a matter of routing input signal to the Preouts banks and then running a cable (analog or digital) back into another input. But, as you said, 10 bands is typically more than enough.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## msmith

Smash said:


> Do you have to have the networking hub if you install two of the amps? Or can they connect together if it's just two of them?




The answer is, it depends. In many cases you will not need the Hub to install, tune and operate two amps. For example, if you have a multi-channel amp and a sub amp, you can use the processed pre-outs of the multi-channel to drive the sub amp and do all the tuning in the multi-channel. Presets would also work fine in this setup, without a Hub.

On the other hand, if you have two 5 ch amps, let’s say one for left and one for right, you would want the Hub so that you could access both from within one TuN project and coordinate their presets and DRC level commands. 

The Hub also acts as an optical audio router, avoiding latency issues in daisy-chaining optical ins and outs through multiple amps.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## msmith

bbfoto said:


> Manville, THANK YOU for taking the time to answer my many questions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, in light of this new information, I now have further questions.
> 
> 
> 
> 1. I didn't see any specific product pages or info on the JL Audio website for the VXi-HUB, VXi-BTC, or DRC-205. Will that information be available soon?
> 
> 
> 
> 2. If we use the VXi-HUB, does the VXi-BTC Bluetooth adapter plug into the HUB to accommodate quick & easy switching between multiple VXi amps in order to make DSP adjustments between the two or more DSP/amps using the TüN Mobile app?
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Does this AMAZING, extruded, grained & anodized, oleophobic-coated aluminum Top Cover provide any EMI or RF shielding or thermal dissipation properties???...
> 
> 
> 
> ...In one of my current installs I have two Alpine PDX 2nd Gen amplifiers Stacked, which equates to a total of 4" of thickness, which happens to be the absolute maximum available for this mounting location. With the JL Audio VXi amplifiers each being 2.125" thick, two of them stacked equates to _at least_ 4.25" of thickness instead of just 4.0". I want to Remove Both Top Covers on the VXi amplifiers so that they would *potentially* fit in this existing space when stacked. Disregarding voiding the warranty for now, would you advise against this?
> 
> 
> 
> 4. How do you derive and/or Connect To the ANALOG Pre-Outs on the VXi amps to pass that Line Level signal on to another non-DSP amp that only has RCA inputs? ...Through the DB-25 connector & pigtail and then setting it up in the input/routing matrix? (I didn't see any RCA connectors on any of the VXi amps).
> 
> 
> 
> 5. When utilizing the 2-channel Digital OR Analog Pre-Outs on the VXi amplifiers, do those channels have the COMPLETE Set of VXi Processing Capabilities available, or are they limited in any way???
> 
> 
> 
> 6. How is the isolation & elimination of noise and the different PSUs handled between the noisy class D amplifier circuitry and the sensitive AKM digital input/ADC/DAC/DSP sections?
> 
> 
> 
> 7. Disregarding subjective listening impressions, which amplifier measures best on your Audio Precision test rig between the new VXi series and the older flagship HD-series amplifiers?
> 
> 
> 
> That's all...for now!  TIA




1) Yes, we’re working on those. 

2) Yes

3) It is mostly decorative. There is a solid casting underneath it. The bad news is that, to remove it, you have to take the whole amplifier apart. It is screwed from the inside of the chassis. I cannot recommend that, but that’s what you would need to do.

4) The preouts appear as another pair of output channels in the interface. You can process them or just pass them on. The connection is on the Input connector/harness with all the other RCA’s

5) The analog preouts have the full set of signal processing features, just like the amp channels. The digital preouts only have the PEQ and level control functions, both level trim and DRC level control.

6) Not my area of expertise, but it is managed very well. The amps are very quiet.

7) The HD measures a little better in terms of THD, but not to any significant degree. The numbers don’t really tell the story. 


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----------



## msmith

LOST_llama said:


> Manville, thanks for the details and the photo. Looks like a CTS? Very clean. I would love to get a demo of it. Are you going to bring it to SBN?
> 
> 
> 
> I currently have an XD400/4 bridged to two channels running my ZR650's in my doors and another 400/4 running active on my 3.5” point source drivers in my pillars. A 500/3 runs my sub and rear speakers.
> 
> 
> 
> I am contemplating switching to a 800/8 VXi to run everything but the sub, but am concerned about going to only 75 watts per ZR.
> 
> 
> 
> How impactful are your C7’s with the 75 watts from the 800/8? What crossover points are you using?
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Brian



My car is a CT6 (the big Cadillac). Unfortunately, I will not be attending SBN. 

I wouldn’t be concerned about the power rating. In my system, I never run out of gas. It is loud and clean, clean, clean. The midbass is excellent... crossed over at 70 Hz. 



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## bbfoto

msmith said:


> 1) Yes, we’re working on those.
> 
> 2) Yes
> 
> 3) It is mostly decorative. There is a solid casting underneath it. The bad news is that, to remove it, you have to take the whole amplifier apart. It is screwed from the inside of the chassis. I cannot recommend that, but that’s what you would need to do.
> 
> 4) The preouts appear as another pair of output channels in the interface. You can process them or just pass them on. The connection is on the Input connector/harness with all the other RCA’s
> 
> 5) The analog preouts have the full set of signal processing features, just like the amp channels. The digital preouts only have the PEQ and level control functions, both level trim and DRC level control.
> 
> 6) Not my area of expertise, but it is managed very well. The amps are very quiet.
> 
> 7) The HD measures a little better in terms of THD, but not to any significant degree. The numbers don’t really tell the story.



Thanks again, Manville! ??

1. Could you please post or Link to some detailed photos of the DB25 "Input Connector" pigtail harness, the Power Connector, and any other proprietary connectors, optical cables, etc?

2. How much will additional Optical Cables cost, and what lengths are available?

3. Can we use aftermarket/custom Toslink Optical Cables?

TIA

B.B.


----------



## msmith

bbfoto said:


> Thanks again, Manville! ??
> 
> 1. Could you please post or Link to some detailed photos of the DB25 "Input Connector" pigtail harness, the Power Connector, and any other proprietary connectors, optical cables, etc?
> 
> 2. How much will additional Optical Cables cost, and what lengths are available?
> 
> 3. Can we use aftermarket/custom Toslink Optical Cables?
> 
> TIA
> 
> B.B.


I will dig up a pic of the harnesses and post them.

The optical cables are standard TOSLINK optical cables. You can use any one you like. We do have some available here in 3ft, 6ft and 12 ft lengths: 
Digital Audio Interconnects - JL Audio










Here are some pics of the VX400/4i input and speaker harnesses.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7mlvritrw1h41mu/IMG_8600.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/v68v0g5rla960in/IMG_8599.JPG?dl=0


----------



## LumbermanSVO

The ONLY thing this is missing is a steering wheel control interface. A way to use an existing interface would do as well...


----------



## LOST_llama

@mssmith

Manville, what is the port under the input port used for? It appears to be labeled "SD + Reset."


----------



## msmith

LOST_llama said:


> @mssmith
> 
> 
> 
> Manville, what is the port under the input port used for? It appears to be labeled "SD + Reset."




Hard reset buttons. And an SD card slot for future use. Doesn’t do anything right now.


----------



## LOST_llama

@mssmith

Manville, how do you use the TuN app to configure a L-R and R-L rearfill set up?


----------



## Babs

LOST_llama said:


> @mssmith
> 
> 
> 
> Manville, how do you use the TuN app to configure a L-R and R-L rearfill set up?



I would guess like any DSP would if you can flip polarity on the input side. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## msmith

LOST_llama said:


> @mssmith
> 
> 
> 
> Manville, how do you use the TuN app to configure a L-R and R-L rearfill set up?




You connect both left and right inputs to an EQ bank and flip the polarity of one in the input mixer. You can then adjust the proportion of the L-R mix using the level trim in the in the input mixer.


----------



## ferret111

if the dsp is not buggy in these things they should be a massive success, and by not buggy I mean the dsp capabilities in my mind need to be damn near perfect


----------



## bbfoto

Manville,

Thanks again for posting up the pics of the VXi connectors/pigtails and cables. ?

I'm very interested in trying a pair of the VX1000/5i DSP amps. But once you add the VXi-HUB, DRC-205, and VXi-BTC, it gets just about as "messy" and space-consuming to install as a separate DSP & amp setup, and that JL setup is closing in on $2,700 before tax.

That's not outrageous, but there are a lot of other options out there for good, solid DSPs & Amplifiers for the same cost or a bit less. And depending on your particular system's setup, it may be easier to configure it with separate amps and a separate DSP.

Bluetooth: It's not that big of a deal in the overall scheme of things, but since they have already created a Bluetooth connection module for this amplifier series, AND added the ability to use a Smartphone or Tablet app to adjust the DSP, I'm really disappointed that Apt-X BT streaming capabilities were overlooked and not included. 

It's not in the same category, but take a look at the new 5-channel JBL GTR-7535 amplifier with an included front-mounted BT streaming & control module complete with a built-in microphone for Hands-Free BT calls. It's not Apt-X capable either AFAIK, but it's a step in the right direction. Depending on the vehicle you are installing it in, this amp with a separate DSP may be the better and obviously less expensive option over the JL VXi.


*Crutchfield - JBL GTR-7535 Bluetooth Streaming Amp*

With the JL VXi amps, I'm not sure how it would work if I wanted to add another high-quality Bluetooth receiver with Apt-X or Apt-X HD capability for wireless streaming while also being connected to the VXi-BTC. But I guess that you would just need to connect to the VXi-BTC occasionally when you wanted to make tuning/setup adjustments, since you would still have the hard-wired DRC-205 as your main system controller? I'll have to think this through and see what will work, then figure out what my priorities are.

But JL did an excellent job here of creating a very solid and complete amplifier lineup (with DSP) to cover nearly every system setup scenario (tongue twister, ha!).


----------



## EmptyKim

bbfoto said:


> Manville,
> 
> Thanks again for posting up the pics of the VXi connectors/pigtails and cables. ?
> 
> I'm very interested in trying a pair of the VX1000/5i DSP amps. But once you add the VXi-HUB, DRC-205, and VXi-BTC, it gets just about as "messy" and space-consuming to install as a separate DSP & amp setup, and that JL setup is closing in on $2,700 before tax.
> 
> That's not outrageous, but there are a lot of other options out there for good, solid DSPs & Amplifiers for the same cost or a bit less. And depending on your particular system's setup, it may be easier to configure it with separate amps and a separate DSP.
> 
> Bluetooth: It's not that big of a deal in the overall scheme of things, but since they have already created a Bluetooth connection module for this amplifier series, AND added the ability to use a Smartphone or Tablet app to adjust the DSP, I'm really disappointed that Apt-X BT streaming capabilities were overlooked and not included.
> 
> It's not in the same category, but take a look at the new 5-channel JBL GTR-7535 amplifier with an included front-mounted BT streaming & control module complete with a built-in microphone for Hands-Free BT calls. It's not Apt-X capable either AFAIK, but it's a step in the right direction. Depending on the vehicle you are installing it in, this amp with a separate DSP may be the better and obviously less expensive option over the JL VXi.
> 
> 
> *Crutchfield - JBL GTR-7535 Bluetooth Streaming Amp*
> 
> With the JL VXi amps, I'm not sure how it would work if I wanted to add another high-quality Bluetooth receiver with Apt-X or Apt-X HD capability for wireless streaming while also being connected to the VXi-BTC. But I guess that you would just need to connect to the VXi-BTC occasionally when you wanted to make tuning/setup adjustments, since you would still have the hard-wired DRC-205 as your main system controller? I'll have to think this through and see what will work, then figure out what my priorities are.
> 
> But JL did an excellent job here of creating a very solid and complete amplifier lineup (with DSP) to cover nearly every system setup scenario (tongue twister, ha!).


Can’t you just do a Bluetooth receiver (of your choice with apt-x) with optical out to the VXi amp?


----------



## TerryGreen5986

bbfoto said:


> Manville,
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again for posting up the pics of the VXi connectors/pigtails and cables.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm very interested in trying a pair of the VX1000/5i DSP amps. But once you add the VXi-HUB, DRC-205, and VXi-BTC, it gets just about as "messy" and space-consuming to install as a separate DSP & amp setup, and that JL setup is closing in on $2,700 before tax.
> 
> 
> 
> That's not outrageous, but there are a lot of other options out there for good, solid DSPs & Amplifiers for the same cost or a bit less. And depending on your particular system's setup, it may be easier to configure it with separate amps and a separate DSP.
> 
> 
> 
> Bluetooth: It's not that big of a deal in the overall scheme of things, but since they have already created a Bluetooth connection module for this amplifier series, AND added the ability to use a Smartphone or Tablet app to adjust the DSP, I'm really disappointed that Apt-X BT streaming capabilities were overlooked and not included.
> 
> 
> 
> It's not in the same category, but take a look at the new 5-channel JBL GTR-7535 amplifier with an included front-mounted BT streaming & control module complete with a built-in microphone for Hands-Free BT calls. It's not Apt-X capable either AFAIK, but it's a step in the right direction. Depending on the vehicle you are installing it in, this amp with a separate DSP may be the better and obviously less expensive option over the JL VXi.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Crutchfield - JBL GTR-7535 Bluetooth Streaming Amp*
> 
> 
> 
> With the JL VXi amps, I'm not sure how it would work if I wanted to add another high-quality Bluetooth receiver with Apt-X or Apt-X HD capability for wireless streaming while also being connected to the VXi-BTC. But I guess that you would just need to connect to the VXi-BTC occasionally when you wanted to make tuning/setup adjustments, since you would still have the hard-wired DRC-205 as your main system controller? I'll have to think this through and see what will work, then figure out what my priorities are.
> 
> 
> 
> But JL did an excellent job here of creating a very solid and complete amplifier lineup (with DSP) to cover nearly every system setup scenario (tongue twister, ha!).




I 2nd the previous post. Grab an AudioEngine B1 receiver....and do optical out...into the VXi amp. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bbfoto

EmptyKim said:


> Can’t you just do a Bluetooth receiver (of your choice with apt-x) with optical out to the VXi amp?





TerryGreen5986 said:


> I 2nd the previous post. Grab an AudioEngine B1 receiver....and do optical out...into the VXi amp.


Guys, yes, I know that I can do that. I do that now using the Arcam rBlink Apt-X BT receiver into my Helix DSP PRO/PRO MK II processors.

BUT, JL Audio has their own proprietary VXI-BTC bluetooth receiver for the VXi DSP amps that is used to Control the Amps, and for DSP tuning adjustments. BUT it DOES NOT allow Streaming of music from your smartphone or tablet directly to the VXi DSP/amps.

So in this case, in order to Stream Music AND Control/Tune the DSP amps, you *might* need to have TWO CONCURRENT Bluetooth Connections, OR use 2 SEPARATE Mobile Devices...One connected to Bluetooth to Control/Adjust the JL DSP amp, and a separate one connected to a separate aftermarket Bluetooth receiver for Streaming Music.

*IF* the JL Audio VXI-BTC Bluetooth adapter allowed Apt-X Music Streaming, you would only need ONE mobile Device and ONE Bluetooth connection to do both Streaming and Control the DSP amp.

There are only a select few smartphones and tablets that allow 2 or more concurrent Bluetooth connections at the same time.


----------



## TerryGreen5986

Is controlling your DSP thru Bluetooth necessary? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bbfoto

TerryGreen5986 said:


> Is controlling your DSP thru Bluetooth necessary?


It may not be absolutely necessary, but it's what *most* of us have been waiting for, and a helluva lot easier to just pull out an iPad or Android Tablet or Smartphone using Bluetooth to make adjustments, rather than having to bust out your laptop, boot into Windoz and connect it via USB cable. (Luckily, JL Audio has made the tuning software available for Mac OS X now)!

We have enough cables to deal with in car audio. It would be nice to not need the USB cable, and the connection can be finicky if you have to use long USB cable lengths.

JL Audio spent a lot of R&D time & $ developing the iOS and Android apps so that we could do this. Why not take advantage of it? More people use tablets and smartphones for everyday computing over laptops these days. In most cases, they are just quicker and easier to use for this type of task.

And, if you still prefer using a laptop for these types of adjustments, you can still use your laptop connected via Bluetooth to the DSP. Win win.


----------



## TerryGreen5986

bbfoto said:


> It may not be absolutely necessary, but it's what *most* of us have been waiting for, and a helluva lot easier to just pull out an iPad or Android Tablet or Smartphone using Bluetooth to make adjustments, rather than having bust out your laptop and connect it via USB cable.
> 
> 
> 
> We have enough cables to deal with in car audio. It would be nice to not need the USB cable, and the connection can be finicky if you have to use long USB cable lengths.
> 
> 
> 
> JL Audio spent a lot of R&D time & $ developing the iOS and Android apps so that we could do this. Why not take advantage of it? More people use tablets and smartphones for everyday computing over laptops these days. In most cases, they are just quicker and easier to use for this type of task.




Not sure if you’ve played with the app, but it’s very limited. The average experienced tuner won’t be using this app for fine tuning. It only lets u set the basic stuff. If u plan on doing any real tuning, the laptop is gonna have to be broken out lol. It’s a neat little gesture that they made but....eh lol 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bbfoto

TerryGreen5986 said:


> Not sure if you’ve played with the app, but it’s very limited. The average experienced tuner won’t be using this app for fine tuning. It only lets u set the basic stuff. If u plan on doing any real tuning, the laptop is gonna have to be broken out lol. It’s a neat little gesture that they made but....eh lol


The "TuN EXPRESS" app is limited. The "TuN MOBILE" version for tablets allows FULL CONTROL according to Manville @ JL.

See: 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/5368410-post98.html


----------



## gumbeelee

bbfoto said:


> It may not be absolutely necessary, but it's what *most* of us have been waiting for, and a helluva lot easier to just pull out an iPad or Android Tablet or Smartphone using Bluetooth to make adjustments, rather than having to bust out your laptop, boot into Windoz and connect it via USB cable. (Luckily, JL Audio has made the tuning software available for Mac OS X now)!
> 
> 
> 
> We have enough cables to deal with in car audio. It would be nice to not need the USB cable, and the connection can be finicky if you have to use long USB cable lengths.
> 
> 
> 
> JL Audio spent a lot of R&D time & $ developing the iOS and Android apps so that we could do this. Why not take advantage of it? More people use tablets and smartphones for everyday computing over laptops these days. In most cases, they are just quicker and easier to use for this type of task.
> 
> 
> 
> And, if you still prefer using a laptop for these types of adjustments, you can still use your laptop connected via Bluetooth to the DSP. Win win.




I would absolutely love it if helix had an ios app. I believe they will sooner or later. With that being said I give huge props to JL for doing this. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## msmith

To clarify:

PC and Mac OS: TüN 3.0 (connects only via USB), full control over all features. 

Android and iOS tablets: TüN Mobile (connects only via Bluetooth LE, requires VXi-BTC bluetooth communicator). This is a full featured control app, same as PC/Mac version. 

Android phones and Apple iPhone: TüN Express (connects only via Bluetooth LE, requires VXi-BTC bluetooth communicator). This is a limited control app for simple setup only.

If you want to stream audio via Bluetooth into a VXi, you will need the MBT-RX Bluetooth receiver. It is $39.99 and can be connected to a VXi analog input pair. It has AptX, too.


----------



## msmith

Why not do a VX800/8i and a sub amp (or two). Then you don’t need the hub at all. Just use the 800/8i’s processed preouts to feed the sub amp(s) and control everything from one amp. 



bbfoto said:


> Manville,
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again for posting up the pics of the VXi connectors/pigtails and cables.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm very interested in trying a pair of the VX1000/5i DSP amps. But once you add the VXi-HUB, DRC-205, and VXi-BTC, it gets just about as "messy" and space-consuming to install as a separate DSP & amp setup, and that JL setup is closing in on $2,700 before tax.
> 
> 
> 
> That's not outrageous, but there are a lot of other options out there for good, solid DSPs & Amplifiers for the same cost or a bit less. And depending on your particular system's setup, it may be easier to configure it with separate amps and a separate DSP.


----------



## bbfoto

msmith said:


> Why not do a VX800/8i and a sub amp (or two). Then you don’t need the hub at all. Just use the 800/8i’s processed preouts to feed the sub amp(s) and control everything from one amp.


That IS a possible option, thanks. But the dual VXi-1000/5i amps plus the subwoofer amplifier that I already have seems like it would be better suited to my system's current set up and it's power requirements.




msmith said:


> To clarify:
> 
> *PC and Mac OS: TüN 3.0 (connects only via USB), full control over all features.*
> 
> Android and iOS tablets: TüN Mobile (connects only via Bluetooth LE, requires VXi-BTC bluetooth communicator). This is a full featured control app, same as PC/Mac version.
> 
> Android phones and Apple iPhone: TüN Express (connects only via Bluetooth LE, requires VXi-BTC bluetooth communicator). This is a limited control app for simple setup only.
> 
> If you want to stream audio via Bluetooth into a VXi, you will need the MBT-RX Bluetooth receiver. It is $39.99 and can be connected to a VXi analog input pair. It has AptX, too.


Thanks for the clarification!

Regarding the *Bold* text in your reply above, do you know what the limitation is here? Nearly all modern laptops, both PC and Mac, have Bluetooth built-in. If it's a BT bandwidth limitation, why not use Wi-Fi?

What is it that's still requiring us to use a USB port and hard-wired connection?  I'm not completely against using a hard-wired USB connection, but it just seems so 1999.  I can pretty much control my entire home wirelessly with my smartphone.

Regarding the MBT-RX, thanks again for the heads up.

Unfortunately, if I want to Stream Music via BT, AND use wireless BT for DSP tuning, that still means I would need to install Two Completely Separate Bluetooth Receivers, right? The MBT-RX doesn't replace the VXI-BTC, correct?

IDK, that just seems a bit clunky for this day and age. Having to install and switch back and forth between two different Bluetooth devices in the same vehicle kind of takes the convenience factor of BT away. 1st world problems, I know, haha, but BT technology is fairly ubiquitous at this point.

It also seems like a step backwards for installers who are trying to keep things clean and simple. It's just one more thing to have to wire up and install. But I guess that's good for both JL Audio and the shop's bottom line as they will be adding extra income by selling an additional device & charging for the install labor. Business 101.

Maybe high-quality Bluetooth streaming isn't as important to others, but I have a lot of friends that are also musicians, and it's great for them to be able to just hop in the car and connect to my Bluetooth to hear what they've been working on. Same goes for when I have any other friends or family in the car.

I honestly really do like what JL is doing with this new lineup. But there are just a few things that are causing me to scratch my head. But they are mostly things that are unique to my setup and how I'd personally like it to operate.

.


----------



## msmith

Not all PC’s support BT 5.0 with LE. 

The JLid port and the CAN network behind it do not have the bandwidth for music streaming. JLid was designed for control only. 

Also, for RFI readons, you don’t want to put a BT or WiFi radio inside the same box as a powerful switching amp. Outboard works much better. 

I will share your feedback with engineering. We can certainly consider a BT link for the PC/Mac software in future updates.


----------



## LumbermanSVO

Manville,

Does the Valet input work the same at on the TwK? If so I'll use it to switch between top up and down tunes, and I'll only need the Valet input on the in/out plug. Is the in/out plug a standard DB-25 connector? If so, something like whats pictured below should be fine for making the connector smaller, right? I have a Miata, so every little bit of space matters!


----------



## msmith

LumbermanSVO said:


> Manville,
> 
> 
> 
> Does the Valet input work the same at on the TwK? If so I'll use it to switch between top up and down tunes, and I'll only need the Valet input on the in/out plug. Is the in/out plug a standard DB-25 connector? If so, something like whats pictured below should be fine for making the connector smaller, right? I have a Miata, so every little bit of space matters!




Yes. Valet works the same as TwK. You could use a different plug if you wanted.


----------



## ErinH

Manville,
Do you by chance know what the latency is through the amps as it passes from RCA inputs --> RCA pre-outs? 

I'm asking because I'll be using one of the pre-outs from two amps (left and right side amps) to send signal to another amplifier that will be powering a different set of L/R speakers and it would be nice to know what additional Time Delay I need to add to my *other* channels to account for any of the latency/delay when the signal is passed through the input to the pre-out of one of these amps. Hope that makes sense. 

I could measure this myself but it would save me the trouble of digging out all my measurement gear if you happen to have this information available. That way I can just type in this additional delay to all my other channels and go on about my business.

Thanks in advance,
Erin


----------



## msmith

ErinH said:


> Manville,
> 
> Do you by chance know what the latency is through the amps as it passes from RCA inputs --> RCA pre-outs?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm asking because I'll be using one of the pre-outs from two amps (left and right side amps) to send signal to another amplifier that will be powering a different set of L/R speakers and it would be nice to know what additional Time Delay I need to add to my *other* channels to account for any of the latency/delay when the signal is passed through the input to the pre-out of one of these amps. Hope that makes sense.
> 
> 
> 
> I could measure this myself but it would save me the trouble of digging out all my measurement gear if you happen to have this information available. That way I can just type in this additional delay to all my other channels and go on about my business.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Erin




I don’t remember the number, but it’s very small. I can ask engineers tomorrow


----------



## ErinH

That would be appreciated.

Again, I could measure it myself but I'm feeling rather lazy and if there's someone on the team that could just tell me it would save me some hassle of dragging all the measurement stuff out.


----------



## LOST_llama

msmith said:


> To clarify:
> 
> PC and Mac OS: TüN 3.0 (connects only via USB), full control over all features.
> 
> Android and iOS tablets: TüN Mobile (connects only via Bluetooth LE, requires VXi-BTC bluetooth communicator). This is a full featured control app, same as PC/Mac version.
> 
> Android phones and Apple iPhone: TüN Express (connects only via Bluetooth LE, requires VXi-BTC bluetooth communicator). This is a limited control app for simple setup only.
> 
> If you want to stream audio via Bluetooth into a VXi, you will need the MBT-RX Bluetooth receiver. It is $39.99 and can be connected to a VXi analog input pair. It has AptX, too.


Manville, do you know the timeline on the release of the Mac version of TuN?


----------



## msmith

LOST_llama said:


> Manville, do you know the timeline on the release of the Mac version of TuN?




Any day now. Just waiting on Apple to bless it and make it live on the App Store.


----------



## bbfoto

msmith said:


> Not all PC’s support BT 5.0 with LE.


True, but I'm pretty sure that you can buy a tiny, separate USB BT 5.0 LE dongle that should work on just about any PC or Mac. 

*Makerspot CC2640 Bluetooth Low-Energy BLE 5.0 USB HID Dongle - $19.99*




msmith said:


> The JLid port and the CAN network behind it do not have the bandwidth for music streaming. JLid was designed for control only.


Copy that. It makes perfect sense, however unfortunate.




msmith said:


> Also, for RFI reasons, you don’t want to put a BT or WiFi radio inside the same box as a powerful switching amp. Outboard works much better.


That's definitely true & makes sense. On the same token, you normally don't want to put ADC/DAC circuitry in the same box as a high power switching amp, but you managed to make it work seemingly quite well. 

And I never said or requested that the BT/WiFi should be/or had to be internal to the amp. A single external module like your current VXI-BTC that would do both Control AND Streaming would be fine. But as you said, it's not possible with the chosen interface/protocol. 




msmith said:


> I will share your feedback with engineering. We can certainly consider a BT link for the PC/Mac software in future updates.


Thanks, man. I really appreciate all of your time and effort that you've put into answering all of our questions, especially to us eccentric buggers, haha...and especially on a weekend. ? In the end, we all want your products to be the best they can be, for everyone's use case scenario.

Cheers!


----------



## bbfoto

ErinH said:


> Manville,
> Do you by chance know what the latency is through the amps as it passes from RCA inputs --> RCA pre-outs?
> 
> I'm asking because I'll be using one of the pre-outs from two amps (left and right side amps) to send signal to another amplifier that will be powering a different set of L/R speakers and it would be nice to know what additional Time Delay I need to add to my *other* channels to account for any of the latency/delay when the signal is passed through the input to the pre-out of one of these amps. Hope that makes sense.
> 
> I could measure this myself but it would save me the trouble of digging out all my measurement gear if you happen to have this information available. That way I can just type in this additional delay to all my other channels and go on about my business.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Erin


Great question...also interested for loopback purposes. Normally it's in the neighborhood of 3ms for these types of devices, but there are obviously too many variables to make that a definitive call. Looking forward to a concrete answer.


----------



## diy.phil

I think I saw the latency number listed in one of the setup manuals.


----------



## msmith

ErinH said:


> That would be appreciated.
> 
> Again, I could measure it myself but I'm feeling rather lazy and if there's someone on the team that could just tell me it would save me some hassle of dragging all the measurement stuff out.


So far, all I've gotten is "under 1 ms" with a promise to get me an exact number. The analog and digital outputs have been matched for latency so that you can switch from one to the other without having to adjust anything.

Stand by for exact number.


----------



## ErinH

Ok. Thanks for checking on this for us Manville.


----------



## t3sn4f2

msmith said:


> So far, all I've gotten is "under 1 ms" with a promise to get me an exact number. The analog and digital outputs have been matched for latency so that you can switch from one to the other without having to adjust anything.
> 
> Stand by for exact number.


Would using a combination of extreme EQ values, number of bands, slopes, etc. affect that number to any significant degree?


----------



## Silvercoat

Anyone know yet if that USB input is strictly for control / updates or is it USB audio input as well.

Would be sex if you could use it for USB audio input. Would be greater sex if it did audio and DSP control from a tablet (please god)

Also I assume the Ethernet connections are for amp to amp?

I wonder how well these pair up together. I would assume if you tied the 8ch + 1ch amps together that it would be seemless to DSP all 9-10 channels at that point.

Pretty amps as well. Good design.


----------



## msmith

ErinH said:


> Manville,
> Do you by chance know what the latency is through the amps as it passes from RCA inputs --> RCA pre-outs?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Erin


The latency is 1.04 ms and is equal on all outputs (amplified outputs, analog pre-outs and digital pre-outs)

Engaging or using processing features (other than delay) will not increase the latency in any way.


----------



## msmith

t3sn4f2 said:


> Would using a combination of extreme EQ values, number of bands, slopes, etc. affect that number to any significant degree?


It will not affect it one bit. Latency remains 1.04 ms.


----------



## msmith

USB connection is strictly for connection to a PC for control and software/firmware updates. No streaming functionality.

The Cat5e connectors are similar to those used for Ethernet, but they are actually used in our proprietary CAN protocol (we call this JLid) for inter-device communication of control data. No audio passes through these.

If using the 8-channel with a sub amp, you can control the whole setup from the 8-channel, feeding the sub amp with the preouts from the 8-channel. You don't even need to use a VXi sub amp. Networking via the JLid connections becomes very useful when using three or more amplifiers.

Thanks for the kind words!





Silvercoat said:


> Anyone know yet if that USB input is strictly for control / updates or is it USB audio input as well.
> 
> Would be sex if you could use it for USB audio input. Would be greater sex if it did audio and DSP control from a tablet (please god)
> 
> Also I assume the Ethernet connections are for amp to amp?
> 
> I wonder how well these pair up together. I would assume if you died the 8ch + 1ch amps together that it would be seemless to DSP all 9-10 channels at that point.
> 
> Pretty amps as well. Good design.


----------



## Smash

msmith said:


> If using the 8-channel with a sub amp, you can control the whole setup from the 8-channel, feeding the sub amp with the preouts from the 8-channel. You don't even need to use a VXi sub amp.


That's pretty awesome right there. I already purchased the 8 channel and 1 channel sub amp but that might have swayed me to just purchase the 8 channel and use an existing amp.


----------



## ErinH

msmith said:


> The latency is 1.04 ms and is equal on all outputs (amplified outputs, analog pre-outs and digital pre-outs)
> 
> Engaging or using processing features (other than delay) will not increase the latency in any way.


Great. Thanks for this info!


----------



## KillerBox

For anyone interested, I started a new thread on Surround Sound, rear fill and center channel speakers.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...-channel-helpful-hurtful-car.html#post5383402


----------



## Silvercoat

msmith said:


> USB connection is strictly for connection to a PC for control and software/firmware updates. No streaming functionality.
> 
> The Cat5e connectors are similar to those used for Ethernet, but they are actually used in our proprietary CAN protocol (we call this JLid) for inter-device communication of control data. No audio passes through these.
> 
> If using the 8-channel with a sub amp, you can control the whole setup from the 8-channel, feeding the sub amp with the preouts from the 8-channel. You don't even need to use a VXi sub amp. Networking via the JLid connections becomes very useful when using three or more amplifiers.
> 
> Thanks for the kind words!


I understand on the USB. Makes sense. You guys give optical in AND OUT. Already more than plenty for 99% of the market. Very gracious to see optical native on the amp. Good choice.

I figured the Cat5e was proprietary protocol. Make sense. Again a good choice in interface. Props to that.

From what you say about using (2) VXi amps together, the way I understand what you are saying for signal is

Audio Signal:
VXi 8 CH >>>> RCA >>>>> Other VXi amps

DSP Control & Data:
VXi 8 CH >>>> Cat5e >>>>> Other VXi amps

Is this correct? Is there a way then to keep the audio signal between the amps all digital? Say via the optical?


----------



## Onyx1136

Is there a projected ship date on these yet?


----------



## robhaynes

Onyx1136 said:


> Is there a projected ship date on these yet?


All amplifier models are shipping now.


----------



## msmith

robhaynes said:


> All amplifier models are shipping now.


Let it be known that JL Audio announced a product on a Friday and shipped it three days later, on Monday. 

It's kind of a cool experience. Very new for us.


----------



## Onyx1136

msmith said:


> Let it be known that JL Audio announced a product on a Friday and shipped it three days later, on Monday.
> 
> It's kind of a cool experience. Very new for us.


I wish more manufacturers would do business this way. Eliminate the vaporware that’s far too common in the industry.


----------



## Angrywhopper

Onyx1136 said:


> I wish more manufacturers would do business this way. Eliminate the vaporware that’s far too common in the industry.


Agreed.
I'm still waiting for the JBL CP100. 

:laugh:


----------



## bbfoto

msmith said:


> Let it be known that JL Audio announced a product on a Friday and shipped it three days later, on Monday.
> 
> It's kind of a cool experience. Very new for us.


Highly commendable in this industry, especially regarding DSP products. :thumbsup:




Silvercoat said:


> I understand on the USB. Makes sense. You guys give optical in AND OUT. Already more than plenty for 99% of the market. Very gracious to see optical native on the amp. Good choice.
> 
> I figured the Cat5e was proprietary protocol. Make sense. Again a good choice in interface. Props to that.
> 
> From what you say about using (2) VXi amps together, the way I understand what you are saying for signal is
> 
> Audio Signal:
> VXi 8 CH >>>> RCA >>>>> Other VXi amps
> 
> DSP Control & Data:
> VXi 8 CH >>>> Cat5e >>>>> Other VXi amps
> 
> Is this correct? Is there a way then to keep the audio signal between the amps all digital? Say via the optical?


All of these questions and more (including your previous questions) were gratuitously answered by Manville if you read several pages back in this thread.  I put Manville through the wringer with all of my questions! :blush:


Yes, you can keep the Audio Signal distributed between all the VXi amps using Toslink Digital Optical. In addition, you can use the JL VXi-HUB to interconnect multiple VXi amps via Toslink for Audio Signal, AND for DSP Control of all of the amps linked together using the JLid CAT5E connections. The VXI-HUB does not support Analog/RCA music signal.

You can Control & Adjust the DSP/Amp(s) via BLUETOOTH using an Apple iOS or Android Smartphone (limited control using TuN EXPRESS app), or iPad/Android Tablet (Full Control using TuN MOBILE app).

To do this you must purchase the $99 VXI-BTC receiver separately. It uses the JLid CAT5E connection which Does Not support Audio Streaming over Bluetooth. You would have to add an additional BT Receiver to Stream Audio into the DSP/Amps. JL has their own BT Receiver that supports APT-X, or you can use whatever one you'd like connected via the Toslink Digital or analog RCA Inputs.

You can also Control & Adjust the DSP/Amp using a PC or Mac Computer via USB Cable.

Each of the VXi Amplifiers has One set of Pre-Amp Outputs (stereo L/R) which can be either Toslink Digital OR analog RCA. This Pre-Amp Output can be assigned to a Fully Processed Signal out of the DSP, or can be a clean, unprocessed "pass-through" signal.

So this is how you could use just One VXi DSP/Amplifier and have it send a fully processed signal (X/O, T/A, EQ, etc.) to your existing non-VXi Subwoofer amplifier, for instance.


----------



## Onyx1136

Angrywhopper said:


> Agreed.
> I'm still waiting for the JBL CP100.
> 
> :laugh:


I put down a deposit for an Image Dynamics IDOne DSP almost 20 years ago. Still waiting on them to deliver that one.


----------



## LumbermanSVO

Onyx1136 said:


> I put down a deposit for an Image Dynamics IDOne DSP almost 20 years ago. Still waiting on them to deliver that one.


I wanted that SO much!


----------



## gumbeelee

Onyx1136 said:


> I put down a deposit for an Image Dynamics IDOne DSP almost 20 years ago. Still waiting on them to deliver that one.




Its coming, still working out some software bugs.....LOL!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Silvercoat

Angrywhopper said:


> Agreed.
> I'm still waiting for the JBL CP100.
> 
> :laugh:


By the time it was released (if it ever properly was) it was already out of date and old tech.


----------



## Silvercoat

bbfoto said:


> Highly commendable in this industry, especially regarding DSP products. :thumbsup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of these questions and more (including your previous questions) were gratuitously answered by Manville if you read several pages back in this thread.  I put Manville through the wringer with all of my questions! :blush:
> 
> 
> Yes, you can keep the Audio Signal distributed between all the VXi amps using Toslink Digital Optical. In addition, you can use the JL VXi-HUB to interconnect multiple VXi amps via Toslink for Audio Signal, AND for DSP Control of all of the amps linked together using the JLid CAT5E connections. The VXI-HUB does not support Analog/RCA music signal.
> 
> You can Control & Adjust the DSP/Amp(s) via BLUETOOTH using an Apple iOS or Android Smartphone (limited control using TuN EXPRESS app), or iPad/Android Tablet (Full Control using TuN MOBILE app).
> 
> To do this you must purchase the $99 VXI-BTC receiver separately. It uses the JLid CAT5E connection which Does Not support Audio Streaming over Bluetooth. You would have to add an additional BT Receiver to Stream Audio into the DSP/Amps. JL has their own BT Receiver that supports APT-X, or you can use whatever one you'd like connected via the Toslink Digital or analog RCA Inputs.
> 
> You can also Control & Adjust the DSP/Amp using a PC or Mac Computer via USB Cable.
> 
> Each of the VXi Amplifiers has One set of Pre-Amp Outputs (stereo L/R) which can be either Toslink Digital OR analog RCA. This Pre-Amp Output can be assigned to a Fully Processed Signal out of the DSP, or can be a clean, unprocessed "pass-through" signal.
> 
> So this is how you could use just One VXi DSP/Amplifier and have it send a fully processed signal (X/O, T/A, EQ, etc.) to your existing non-VXi Subwoofer amplifier, for instance.



Thank you for the heads up as I missed that information previously. Have to say even with the extra pieces the setup is still sexy. Amps are gorgeous, I think they are priced right for what they are, and they have a lot of functionality. 

I am going to assume then on the optical side that it controls audio level as well if you have a varying optical source signal.


----------



## msmith

Silvercoat said:


> Thank you for the heads up as I missed that information previously. Have to say even with the extra pieces the setup is still sexy. Amps are gorgeous, I think they are priced right for what they are, and they have a lot of functionality.
> 
> 
> 
> I am going to assume then on the optical side that it controls audio level as well if you have a varying optical source signal.



If your optical input signal is variable level, it is controlled from its source. 

This works very well. I’m doing it in my car with a NavTV MOST interface. My signal path is completely digital, from source, through DSP, all the way to the amp outputs. VERY clean. Zero hiss 

The VXi optical preouts can be level-controlled by DRC, if desired. It’s selectable.


----------



## Onyx1136

Are there any plans for an expanded DRC? Something with a screen and increased functionality, similar to the Helix Director? 

Also, is there a provision for multiple presets in the software? I didn’t see any in the TuN app for iPhone.


----------



## LumbermanSVO

To piggyback on the previous question. How about an analog JLid interface for those us who want something more custom than the DRC? 

With a couple motorized pots and an Arduino, I can make my steering wheel buttons control both the master volume and sub output.


----------



## msmith

Onyx1136 said:


> Are there any plans for an expanded DRC? Something with a screen and increased functionality, similar to the Helix Director?
> 
> 
> 
> Also, is there a provision for multiple presets in the software? I didn’t see any in the TuN app for iPhone.




Yes , multiple presets are supported and controlled by the pushbutton on the DRC. Six presets plus a valet preset can be active at any time. LED colors are assigned to each preset. Need TuN Mobile or 3.0. TuN Express does not do presets.


----------



## lemntl

Just picked up the vx1000/5i and was wondering if anyone knew when the TüN software is coming out for Mac? Also will this amp be to much for a W6v3 mounted in the JL H.O.112RG-w3v3 box? Last question anyone know when the DRC-205 is coming out as well? TIA


----------



## bbfoto

lemntl said:


> Just picked up the vx1000/5i and was wondering if anyone knew when the TüN software is coming out for Mac? Also will this amp be to much for a W6v3 mounted in the JL H.O.112RG-w3v3 box? Last question anyone know when the DRC-205 is coming out as well? TIA





LOST_llama said:


> (Post #144) Manville, do you know the timeline on the release of the Mac version of TuN?





msmith said:


> (Post #145 approx. 1 week ago) Any day now. Just waiting on Apple to bless it and make it live on the App Store.


No clue on the DRC-205 remote and I'm also not sure about that sub/box combo being optimum. Gain structure/level setting will be most important followed by X/O and EQ to dial in the response.

I'm sure Manville or Rob will chime in at some point.


----------



## (s)AINT

I have a 600/6 right now. Absolutely killer amp. The possibilities with this thing is awesome. I used to have a P99RS, and this amp is like having one of those except you can feed any HU into is for the same SQ


----------



## msmith

TüN software for the Mac is now available for free download on the Mac App store... Enjoy!


----------



## msmith

lemntl said:


> Just picked up the vx1000/5i and was wondering if anyone knew when the TüN software is coming out for Mac? Also will this amp be to much for a W6v3 mounted in the JL H.O.112RG-w3v3 box? Last question anyone know when the DRC-205 is coming out as well? TIA


See post above... Mac Software is now available on Mac App Store.


----------



## jrock645

(s)AINT said:


> I have a 600/6 right now. Absolutely killer amp. The possibilities with this thing is awesome. I used to have a P99RS, and this amp is like having one of those except you can feed any HU into is for the same SQ


So these amps completely replace a DSP?


----------



## bbfoto

jrock645 said:


> So these amps completely replace a DSP?


Uhhh...yeah. Might want to read through the thread, mate.


----------



## P4TH3T1C

Just checking to see if there is an ETA on the DRC-205 and the Bluetooth module. Thank you!


----------



## msmith

P4TH3T1C said:


> Just checking to see if there is an ETA on the DRC-205 and the Bluetooth module. Thank you!


Initially, we were promising end of May, but I'm happy to say that we will have some VXi-BTC's by the end of April... 2018... this month. 

DRC-205 is a little further behind... DRC-200 is available now.


----------



## ChaseUTB

msmith said:


> P4TH3T1C said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just checking to see if there is an ETA on the DRC-205 and the Bluetooth module. Thank you!
> 
> 
> 
> Initially, we were promising end of May, but I'm happy to say that we will have some VXi-BTC's by the end of April... 2018... this month. <img src="http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/images/smilies/tongue.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Razz" class="inlineimg" />
> 
> DRC-205 is a little further behind... DRC-200 is available now.
Click to expand...

Is the drc - 205 the same Dual concentric plastic Bass knob like DRC-200 except with a colored led or is the 205 metal? Does JL Audio offer any type of remote controller for your DSP’s like a audison bit one or mosconi 6to8 with a big volume knob and intuitive readable menu? 

I ask b/c my local shop Cartunes ( Atlanta, Ga ) is recommending a fix and twk solution for my 2015 Infiniti Q40 ( G37 renamed, no bose ) for my install ..They do audison/ hertz / JL Audio / Alpine/ Focal ( Orca ).

If the factory eq changes with factory volume adjustment ( no way to test it ) ( sounds like it ) using the fix and twk combo properly, would I have to leave the factory head unit volume at whatever volume level I calibrated to fix and Twk too?

If yes, does this mean losing factory and steering wheel volume control and controlling the whole system with the DRC 200/205 to control my expensive system?

Thanks,

Chase


----------



## msmith

ChaseUTB said:


> Is the drc - 205 the same Dual concentric plastic Bass knob like DRC-200 except with a colored led or is the 205 metal?














> Does JL Audio offer any type of remote controller for your DSP’s like a audison bit one or mosconi 6to8 with a big volume knob and intuitive readable menu?


Well, the DRC-200/205 is pretty intuitive... big volume knob, secondary knob for bass level, or fader, a pushbutton function to switch presets, and a color LED indicator for the selected preset. At this time we do not offer a remote with an alphanumeric display.



> I ask b/c my local shop Cartunes ( Atlanta, Ga ) is recommending a fix and twk solution for my 2015 Infiniti Q40 ( G37 renamed, no bose ) for my install ..They do audison/ hertz / JL Audio / Alpine/ Focal ( Orca ).
> 
> If the factory eq changes with factory volume adjustment ( no way to test it ) ( sounds like it ) using the fix and twk combo properly, would I have to leave the factory head unit volume at whatever volume level I calibrated to fix and Twk too?


You can operate it either way. In most cases, the change in EQ with volume is not detrimental. It's usually designed as a loudness compensation function, which is not a bad thing.



> If yes, does this mean losing factory and steering wheel volume control and controlling the whole system with the DRC 200/205 to control my expensive system?


As I said, you can run it either way. I have the knob in my car and when I'm being super serious about SQ I set the factory volume up high and use the knob. For casual listening in everyday driving, I leave the knob set high and use the steering wheel volume controls.


----------



## lv_v

@msmith Any feedback on a "best practice" for running a center channel with the VXi's processing? I haven't toyed around with the software yet, but hoping it can do better than just basic summing of L/R for the signal.


----------



## SkizeR

lv_v said:


> @msmith Any feedback on a "best practice" for running a center channel with the VXi's processing? I haven't toyed around with the software yet, but hoping it can do better than just basic summing of L/R for the signal.


these dont have any upmixing, but they do have all pass filters. Ditch the center channel and use the all pass filters

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## msmith

lv_v said:


> @msmith Any feedback on a "best practice" for running a center channel with the VXi's processing? I haven't toyed around with the software yet, but hoping it can do better than just basic summing of L/R for the signal.


The VXi input mixer has the ability to combine multiple inputs, adjust the polarity of each input and the relative level of each input. So you can sum and subtract channels, and adjust their relative levels to fine tune.

It has no steering logic or upmixing functionality.

Each output channel has a fully adjustable all-pass filter, with variable corner frequency and Q.


----------



## lemntl

if I am using the vx1000/5i with a stock head unit, do i need to use a fix 82?


----------



## bbfoto

lemntl said:


> if I am using the vx1000/5i with a stock head unit, do i need to use a fix 82?


It depends entirely on which vehicle you have, it's trim level or the options it has that determine exactly which head unit is installed. If it is a head unit that applies volume-dependent active EQ and/or digital delay (T/A or "time alignment"), then YES, you would probably benefit from using the FiX 82 in front of the VX1000/5I.

What is the make, model, year, and trim level of your vehicle? Manville or others here may know what head unit you have and if it's doing any type of active processing from first-hand experience.


----------



## lemntl

bbfoto said:


> It depends entirely on which vehicle you have, it's trim level or the options it has that determine exactly which head unit is installed. If it is a head unit that applies volume-dependent active EQ and/or digital delay (T/A or "time alignment"), then YES, you would probably benefit from using the FiX 82 in front of the VX1000/5I.
> 
> What is the make, model, year, and trim level of your vehicle? Manville or others here may know what head unit you have and if it's doing any type of active processing from first-hand experience.


Thanks for the reply. I got a 2018 subaru crosstrek limited with the 8" display. I was hoping the DSP in the amp would correct the signal so i didn't need the fix82. After talking to a local stereo shop, they said they spoke to a JL rep and were told I need a fix 82 in order to use my stock head unit and get good sound quality.


----------



## dcfis

That remote is nuts


----------



## Smash

I have the 800/8 and 1000/1 on order. In looking at the specs the amps require 2 awg power wire. Haven’t had any luck finding any in the car audio world. Anyone have any more pictures on the connectors?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## RByers

I believe JL makes 2g wire. I know I've seen others, maybe stinger? Also there are 0g-2/4g wire reducers you could use for around $20 a set.


----------



## TerryGreen5986

Smash said:


> I have the 800/8 and 1000/1 on order. In looking at the specs the amps require 2 awg power wire. Haven’t had any luck finding any in the car audio world. Anyone have any more pictures on the connectors?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro




Lol this is the least of ur worries in car audio. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ErinH

I’m using 4 gauge wiring on mine. I’d be surprised if 2awg was a literal “minimum”. That may be the largest the blocks accommodate, though (IOW, 0 gauge won’t fit the terminals).


----------



## Smash

ErinH said:


> I’m using 4 gauge wiring on mine. I’d be surprised if 2awg was a literal “minimum”. That may be the largest the blocks accommodate, though (IOW, 0 gauge won’t fit the terminals).


Do you have a picture of the connection by chance? I'm not able to find one. Is there an actual block you plug into or a harness that connects to the amp?


----------



## t3sn4f2

lemntl said:


> Thanks for the reply. I got a 2018 subaru crosstrek limited with the 8" display. I was hoping the DSP in the amp would correct the signal so i didn't need the fix82. *After talking to a local stereo shop, they said they spoke to a JL rep and were told I need a fix 82 in order to use my stock head unit and get good sound quality.*


I would investigate further. Some OE head units allow you to reprogram them so that they output only a base two channel low level signal. This is something your stereo shop might not be aware of, or something that a JL rep would not get into recommending due to complexity and/or car warranty concerns.


----------



## msmith

lemntl said:


> Thanks for the reply. I got a 2018 subaru crosstrek limited with the 8" display. I was hoping the DSP in the amp would correct the signal so i didn't need the fix82. After talking to a local stereo shop, they said they spoke to a JL rep and were told I need a fix 82 in order to use my stock head unit and get good sound quality.


VXi will accept up to 16 VRMS inputs, so it can handle most factory signals directly. If the factory signal is EQ'd you can correct it manually with the VXi's EQ's. You can even repurpose the pre-outs EQ to be an input EQ if you want. 

If you need input summing of multiple factory channels and EQ correction (and maybe time correction), I strongly encourage you to use a FiX processor ahead of the VXi. But, in some cases, you can do without and still get very good results.


----------



## msmith

TerryGreen5986 said:


> Lol this is the least of ur worries in car audio.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


JL Audio sells 2 AWG power wire and power kits (Go figure, right). For two amps, it's probably best to run a 1/0 and split it to two shorter runs of 4 AWG. You don't have to use 2 AWG for short runs. 

We need to update the manuals to reflect this. The engineers who spec'd this may have been a bit too orthodox about it.

That being said, 2 AWG should be a more popular wire size than it is. It makes a lot of sense in many situations. It's just hard to find.


----------



## msmith

Smash said:


> Do you have a picture of the connection by chance? I'm not able to find one. Is there an actual block you plug into or a harness that connects to the amp?


https://www.dropbox.com/s/p41h6gvf8dwtegw/IMG_8670.jpg?dl=0

Power Plug is on the left: +12 V, GND, Remote.
Middle Plug is the input harness
Far right are the speaker output harnesses


----------



## Smash

msmith said:


> https://www.dropbox.com/s/p41h6gvf8dwtegw/IMG_8670.jpg?dl=0
> 
> Power Plug is on the left: +12 V, GND, Remote.
> Middle Plug is the input harness
> Far right are the speaker output harnesses


Thank you, and for the information on the 2 gauge wire. I'm all set with 0/1 and 4 gauge so I'll stick with those. The run is very short, about 1-2 feet of 4 gauge. 

Last question for the moment. What are the connectors on the other end of the input and output harnesses, RCA? 

Thanks for all your help!


----------



## msmith

Smash said:


> Thank you, and for the information on the 2 gauge wire. I'm all set with 0/1 and 4 gauge so I'll stick with those. The run is very short, about 1-2 feet of 4 gauge.
> 
> Last question for the moment. What are the connectors on the other end of the input and output harnesses, RCA?
> 
> Thanks for all your help!


Yes, they are female RCA's.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yc40cp546o8lvq5/IMG_8671.jpg?dl=0

and here is the Speaker Output Harness for the multi-channels

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3zyze3610zn7k1f/IMG_8673.jpg?dl=0


----------



## Lanson

These look pretty sweet. If JL gets a center /surround processing algorithm figured out and made available, I'd replace my aging (but brutally good sounding) MS-8 setup, and I'd consider these replacements for my Helix setup in car#2. Nicely done.


----------



## gumbeelee

fourthmeal said:


> These look pretty sweet. If JL gets a center /surround processing algorithm figured out and made available, I'd replace my aging (but brutally good sounding) MS-8 setup, and I'd consider these replacements for my Helix setup in car#2. Nicely done.




I will always hang on to a few ms-8’s no matter what, but I would like to see jl with a center surround processing as well. I just cant wait till andy drops audiofrogs processor


Sent from my iPhone X using Tapatalk


----------



## fury

I would looooove to use these in my install but I have very tight space constraints of 200mm height...
The amp is only 168mm high but those connectors, they kill the dream 

Don't suppose JL have any right angled connectors for power / speaker / DB25 available?


----------



## msmith

fury said:


> I would looooove to use these in my install but I have very tight space constraints of 200mm height...
> The amp is only 168mm high but those connectors, they kill the dream
> 
> Don't suppose JL have any right angled connectors for power / speaker / DB25 available?


The connectors I posted are the only ones available, I'm afraid. You can strip the loom off the harnesses and they will bend a little sharper, if you need that. But the power wires will only bend so much.

Here's a shot of the connectors on an amp...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wytuyzbh1t5exfc/IMG_8478.jpg?dl=0


----------



## ErinH

If you go to the first page of this thread there are pictures of these installed. Here's the ones in my car. You should be able to get an idea of the blocks/space needed. I'm using 4 gauge wiring in to my main inputs and the wires are bent about as tightly as they can be bent. 




ErinH said:


> As for install pics, I only have a few. I don’t really “do” flashy installs. I did once but tore it out in less than a year. So there’s that.
> 
> Anyway, this is my setup. Simple and tidy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ChaseUTB

msmith said:


> ChaseUTB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is the drc - 205 the same Dual concentric plastic Bass knob like DRC-200 except with a colored led or is the 205 metal?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does JL Audio offer any type of remote controller for your DSP’s like a audison bit one or mosconi 6to8 with a big volume knob and intuitive readable menu?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well, the DRC-200/205 is pretty intuitive... big volume knob, secondary knob for bass level, or fader, a pushbutton function to switch presets, and a color LED indicator for the selected preset. At this time we do not offer a remote with an alphanumeric display.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ask b/c my local shop Cartunes ( Atlanta, Ga ) is recommending a fix and twk solution for my 2015 Infiniti Q40 ( G37 renamed, no bose ) for my install ..They do audison/ hertz / JL Audio / Alpine/ Focal ( Orca ).
> 
> If the factory eq changes with factory volume adjustment ( no way to test it ) ( sounds like it ) using the fix and twk combo properly, would I have to leave the factory head unit volume at whatever volume level I calibrated to fix and Twk too?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You can operate it either way. In most cases, the change in EQ with volume is not detrimental. It's usually designed as a loudness compensation function, which is not a bad thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If yes, does this mean losing factory and steering wheel volume control and controlling the whole system with the DRC 200/205 to control my expensive system?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> As I said, you can run it either way. I have the knob in my car and when I'm being super serious about SQ I set the factory volume up high and use the knob. For casual listening in everyday driving, I leave the knob set high and use the steering wheel volume controls.
Click to expand...

Ok thank you for your time and details! I had called JL audio and got conflicting answers regarding how the fix & twk combo corresponds with factory volume control between tech support and local shops.

1.) I was told once the fix82 de-eq’s and calibrates the OEM Signal, that corrected calibrated signal is sent to the twkD8/ twk88 and is NOT affected by the factory volume control being adjusted, is this correct? 

Then I was told:

2.) If I want to use my factory volume control, I was told to leave the DRC at 70-75% ( after calibration and tune) for master level & then use my factory volume. Will this change or affect the tune of the car? 

3.) If the DRC-200/205 is set to max, can it add voltage and clip the outputs/ signal going to amps? ( was told this ) 
3B. ) Is the DRC200/205 a master level control & bass control attenuator like an RCA Bass knob that attenuates voltage to amp when turned down?

If Using just the twk88 due to having 4 channels of low level output with full range signal out of the OEM Head unit, ( no eq with volume, tweeters cap’d ) I assume factory volume control is fine to use since it’s linear and not affecting the signal with eq it ta? 

Thank you, 

Chase


----------



## t3sn4f2

ChaseUTB said:


> 1.) I was told once the fix82 de-eq’s and calibrates the OEM Signal, that corrected calibrated signal is sent to the twkD8/ twk88 and is NOT affected by the factory volume control being adjusted, is this correct?


Not to speak for Manville but the only way that a source volume adjustment would not affect a tune further down the signal chain is if there is no volume dependent manipulation of the signal. You'll typically only a "loudness" feature that boost the treble and bass as you lower the volume setting. So as Maville mentioned, if you tune based off of a fairly high master volume setting, then you'll start off with a fairly flat signal, but once you lower the volume the boost will gradually come in.




ChaseUTB said:


> Then I was told:
> 
> 2.) If I want to use my factory volume control, I was told to leave the DRC at 70-75% ( after calibration and tune) for master level & then use my factory volume. Will this change or affect the tune of the car?


See above 



ChaseUTB said:


> If Using just the twk88 due to having 4 channels of low level output with full range signal out of the OEM Head unit, ( no eq with volume, tweeters cap’d ) I assume factory volume control is fine to use since it’s linear and not affecting the signal with eq it ta?


Correct, the only downside might be a noisier system since you are lower the volume at the beginning of the signal chain instead of at the end, which is optimum. But that is totally dependent on your particular setup and components, and could easily not be an issue.

Below are the measurements of an OE head unit with the typical loudness feature in effect.



npdang said:


> The stock HU is pretty nice... 4v balanced outputs. I noticed a weird kind of auto-loudness feature though. The output doesn't really flatten out until volume 30/40, but it is still signficantly flatter at 20+. 3 following pics, taken at volume level 10, 20, and 30 out of max 40.


----------



## msmith

To expand on t3sn4f2's very helpful post, think of it this way...

The factory system has two types of EQ: a response correction EQ and a loudness compensation EQ. These are separate functions.

The response correction EQ is applied to correct loudspeaker FR in the listening space. It does not vary with volume level in any way.

The loudness compensation EQ is typically a bass and treble boost that only gets applied at lower volume settings. At higher volume settings it goes away. 

When you calibrate a FiX at a high factory volume setting (75% of max, for instance), the loudness EQ is not a factor at all. The FiX simply reads the EQ response of the response correction EQ and applies counter-EQ to flatten it out. 

When you lower the factory volume, the loudness EQ will boost the bass and treble just like it did before, but now it is doing so with a signal that is flat in response as a starting point, so it will look like the first pic that t3sn4f2 posted. This is not a bad thing. Loudness compensation is designed to correct for our hearing mechanism's reduced sensitivity to low and high frequencies at lower volume levels. In most cases, the effect is benign. 

99% of FiX users will use the factory volume as their primary volume. The results are excellent doing it this way. You can also install the DRC knob and use it when you don't want the loudness effect. It's up to you.


----------



## LumbermanSVO

I get home in a few days and will be able to install the 800/8 by the end of the week. I'll be able to eliminate an amp, and the (dead)HU, I just need to figure out what to do about volume control until the DRC-205 or VXi-BTC ships.

Any chance the knob from a TwK D8 will work temporarily? I have one laying around...


----------



## GMCtrk

Trying to see what I am missing here. What would be the difference between running the 1000/5 vs the 400/4 + 600/1? Power specs are identical but the 2 amp combo is $500 more.


----------



## RByers

GMCtrk said:


> Trying to see what I am missing here. What would be the difference between running the 1000/5 vs the 400/4 + 600/1? Power specs are identical but the 2 amp combo is $500 more.


You’re basically adding a second processor with two amps. Let alone doubling other hardware.


----------



## msmith

LumbermanSVO said:


> I get home in a few days and will be able to install the 800/8 by the end of the week. I'll be able to eliminate an amp, and the (dead)HU, I just need to figure out what to do about volume control until the DRC-205 or VXi-BTC ships.
> 
> 
> 
> Any chance the knob from a TwK D8 will work temporarily? I have one laying around...




Yes, the DRC-200 packed with the TwK processor will work with VXi. It’s functionally identical to the upcoming DRC-205 and you won’t have to change any settings when you swap from one to the other. You can use the same cable, too.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## msmith

GMCtrk said:


> Trying to see what I am missing here. What would be the difference between running the 1000/5 vs the 400/4 + 600/1? Power specs are identical but the 2 amp combo is $500 more.




You’re not missing anything. If all you need is 4.1 channels, then the 1000/5 is the far better value. 

The 400/4 and 600/1 are there for people building more complex systems or for those who already have a sub amp and need just a 4-ch... or vice-versa.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## ChaseUTB

msmith said:


> To expand on t3sn4f2's very helpful post, think of it this way...
> 
> The factory system has two types of EQ: a response correction EQ and a loudness compensation EQ. These are separate functions.
> 
> The response correction EQ is applied to correct loudspeaker FR in the listening space. It does not vary with volume level in any way.
> 
> The loudness compensation EQ is typically a bass and treble boost that only gets applied at lower volume settings. At higher volume settings it goes away.
> 
> When you calibrate a FiX at a high factory volume setting (75% of max, for instance), the loudness EQ is not a factor at all. The FiX simply reads the EQ response of the response correction EQ and applies counter-EQ to flatten it out.
> 
> When you lower the factory volume, the loudness EQ will boost the bass and treble just like it did before, but now it is doing so with a signal that is flat in response as a starting point, so it will look like the first pic that t3sn4f2 posted. This is not a bad thing. Loudness compensation is designed to correct for our hearing mechanism's reduced sensitivity to low and high frequencies at lower volume levels. In most cases, the effect is benign.
> 
> 99% of FiX users will use the factory volume as their primary volume. The results are excellent doing it this way. You can also install the DRC knob and use it when you don't want the loudness effect. It's up to you.


Awesome info and thank you for going so in depth to explain the process. I now understand more regarding the “ loudness effect “ and the “ OEM eq Effect “ Being two separate processes. Also now I understand that once the Fix is calibrated it is set and the volume change doesn’t affect the calibration or tune of the system!!! ?


Now if we could just get simple drop down routing menu instead of the circuit board train track ... “ Send Input 1 To output A” then be able to rename the output A To which ever speaker it is for ex: Send input 1 To GB60 L “ . I also think this would work for the eq “ Apply Eq1 To Output A “ And Use Same renaming to “ Apply/ Activate/ Unbypass Eq1 To GB60 L “ 

Just brainstorming out loud. I am an audio engineer, I work with all major programs like Pro Tools, Logic Pro X, Studio One Pro, FL Studio, Ableton Live And Even I find the train tracks thing convoluted. Thanks again for all the answers. I will be using the Twk88 for my build with DRC200 and when DRC205 is ready I want it b/c LED colored lights make the sound quality way better ??


----------



## GMCtrk

msmith said:


> You’re not missing anything. If all you need is 4.1 channels, then the 1000/5 is the far better value.
> 
> The 400/4 and 600/1 are there for people building more complex systems or for those who already have a sub amp and need just a 4-ch... or vice-versa.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thanks. Do the vxi amps have clipping indicators like the RD amps?


----------



## ChaseUTB

t3sn4f2 said:


> ChaseUTB said:
> 
> 
> 
> 1.) I was told once the fix82 de-eq’s and calibrates the OEM Signal, that corrected calibrated signal is sent to the twkD8/ twk88 and is NOT affected by the factory volume control being adjusted, is this correct?
> 
> 
> 
> Not to speak for Manville but the only way that a source volume adjustment would not affect a tune further down the signal chain is if there is no volume dependent manipulation of the signal. You'll typically only a "loudness" feature that boost the treble and bass as you lower the volume setting. So as Maville mentioned, if you tune based off of a fairly high master volume setting, then you'll start off with a fairly flat signal, but once you lower the volume the boost will gradually come in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ChaseUTB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Then I was told:
> 
> 2.) If I want to use my factory volume control, I was told to leave the DRC at 70-75% ( after calibration and tune) for master level & then use my factory volume. Will this change or affect the tune of the car?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> See above
> 
> 
> 
> ChaseUTB said:
> 
> 
> 
> If Using just the twk88 due to having 4 channels of low level output with full range signal out of the OEM Head unit, ( no eq with volume, tweeters cap’d ) I assume factory volume control is fine to use since it’s linear and not affecting the signal with eq it ta?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Correct, the only downside might be a noisier system since you are lower the volume at the beginning of the signal chain instead of at the end, which is optimum. But that is totally dependent on your particular setup and components, and could easily not be an issue.
> 
> Below are the measurements of an OE head unit with the typical loudness feature in effect.
> 
> 
> 
> npdang said:
> 
> 
> 
> The stock HU is pretty nice... 4v balanced outputs. I noticed a weird kind of auto-loudness feature though. The output doesn't really flatten out until volume 30/40, but it is still signficantly flatter at 20+. 3 following pics, taken at volume level 10, 20, and 30 out of max 40.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Thank you so much for the help! I really think I only need the twk88 now b/c my OEM HU is low level full range. The fix and twk solution I think is great just a little confusing regarding everyday operation once calibrated.

The fix had me confused as to what it “ reads “ input wise, however I did not realize once it’s calibrated the fix is “ set “ so to speak. 

Thank you to you and msmith for clarifying and helping me understand the ins and outs.

As far as msmith, That’s great CS, makes me want to support JL Audio company. I emailed and called Audison and can’t get a response on info, imagine if I had a problem .. yikes..


----------



## msmith

GMCtrk said:


> Thanks. Do the vxi amps have clipping indicators like the RD amps?




Yes, in the TuN software you have input and output clipping indicators.


----------



## LumbermanSVO

msmith said:


> Yes, the DRC-200 packed with the TwK processor will work with VXi. It’s functionally identical to the upcoming DRC-205 and you won’t have to change any settings when you swap from one to the other. You can use the same cable, too.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thanks for the response Manville, that's GREAT news! I'll be fully functional in a week-ish with a digital signal chain all the way to the amp. Cools beans!


----------



## ominous

Do the changes made occur in real time, or do they only take effect after the tune is saved?


----------



## TerryGreen5986

The whole “it’s only 2 preouts” confuses me. If I wanna run a 4 channel, and then another 4 channel, and control everything, I can’t? 

Ugh


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## LumbermanSVO

TerryGreen5986 said:


> The whole “it’s only 2 preouts” confuses me. If I wanna run a 4 channel, and then another 4 channel, and control everything, I can’t?
> 
> Ugh
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If you use another XVi amp, you can control it all just fine, and you can connect them with RCA or TOSLINK. If you want to use a non-XVi amp, then you will be limited to the two outputs, from your XVi amp.


----------



## msmith

ominous said:


> Do the changes made occur in real time, or do they only take effect after the tune is saved?


All changes are audible in real time as you tune.


----------



## msmith

TerryGreen5986 said:


> The whole “it’s only 2 preouts” confuses me. If I wanna run a 4 channel, and then another 4 channel, and control everything, I can’t?
> 
> Ugh
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If it's two VXi's, you could network them via the VXi-HUB accessory and control them together.

Or, you could buy the VX800/8i 8-channel amp. No HUB needed.


----------



## TerryGreen5986

msmith said:


> If it's two VXi's, you could network them via the VXi-HUB accessory and control them together.
> 
> 
> 
> Or, you could buy the VX800/8i 8-channel amp. No HUB needed.




What if I’m using each 800/8 bridged as 4 channels. And then two 1000/1’s. 

The hub would be the answer? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ominous

msmith said:


> All changes are audible in real time as you tune.


Thanks.


----------



## msmith

TerryGreen5986 said:


> What if I’m using each 800/8 bridged as 4 channels. And then two 1000/1’s.
> 
> The hub would be the answer?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


With multiple amplifiers, using the HUB is the only way to be able to access all their controls from within one TuN window. The Hub is also needed to synchronize the controller commands (DRC) to all the amps.

If you use just two amps, and you use the first amp's processed preouts to feed the second amp, then you only need to set up the second amp once and you can control the whole setup from the first amp, without a hub.


----------



## 01LSi

Any chance you can stack this on the old hd900/5?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## LumbermanSVO

I'm pretty sure TüN for mac just bricked my 800/8...

I fired it up the amp for the first time, plugged the USB cable into my computer and amp, then opened up TüN and connected to the amp. Immediately TüN told me it was going to do a firmware update and gave me no other option than to click "OK" so I did. The amp disconnected from my computer and TüN popped up with the simulation menu. I let it sit for 10+ minutes and nothing changed. Now I can't get into the amp at all.

Also, I can't download the Windows version of TüN from MacOS in either Safari or Chrome. After entering my name and email address(it's stupid that you have to enter these) and click "Download Now" the box just goes black.


----------



## sq2k1

lumberman, do you use any type of adblocking extension in your browser which could of caused the download box to go black by chance? Just a possibility of what could be the issue.... if not, hope you get it figured out.


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## LumbermanSVO

sq2k1 said:


> lumberman, do you use any type of adblocking extension in your browser which could of caused the download box to go black by chance? Just a possibility of what could be the issue.... if not, hope you get it figured out.


I don't have any plugins or adblockers in Chrome.


----------



## Middleby

Not sure if this pertains or helps at all but I had major problems getting the Tun software to recognize or discover my TwkD8. Being that I had 3 MacBooks at my house I had to download parallels to run the software(Tün 2.0 windows only). Initially it picked it up no problem but after the third attempt it wouldn’t connect and I’d get stuck in simulation mode. I’d have to run the installer and repair the install which worked at first but even that quit working. I ended up having to find a cheap pc laptop and using that. Fixed the problem but I tried everything imaginable on my MacBook with three different versions of windows and had no success. Haven’t tried the TÜN 3.0 being I’m running helix now but I wouldn’t be surprised if the problem lies with compatibility issues with Mac OSX. Try connecting to a pc if you have access and download the software through it and see if you have better luck getting it to connect. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## LumbermanSVO

At the moment I just want to pull the ****er and return it. 

After letting it sit for several hours I was finally able to connect the software to it. But now, whatever I set the crossovers to is wildly inaccurate. It doesn't matter if I use TüN in Windows or MacOS, the whole system is high passed at something stupid like 1k. I can change all I want in the software, but there is no sound below that.

I should have bought the Helix...

EDIT:

And while I'm ranting, if there is nothing connected when starting the software, and a user wants to just quit the software, DON'T MAKE THEM SET SOMETHING UP IN SIMULATION MODE FIRST, THAT IS JUST STUPID! JUST LET THE PERSON CLOSE THE DAMN APP!


----------



## LumbermanSVO

msmith said:


> Yes, the DRC-200 packed with the TwK processor will work with VXi. It’s functionally identical to the upcoming DRC-205 and you won’t have to change any settings when you swap from one to the other. You can use the same cable, too.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Yep... Not working for me...


----------



## GMCtrk

Got the 1000/5 on order.

According to the manual on my focal 165krx2's, the optimum crossover setting results in transient reduction in impedance to 1 ohm. Would the JL amp be able to handle that? Obviously this is outside the specs, just wondering.


----------



## pw91686

LumbermanSVO said:


> At the moment I just want to pull the ****er and return it.
> 
> After letting it sit for several hours I was finally able to connect the software to it. But now, whatever I set the crossovers to is wildly inaccurate. It doesn't matter if I use TüN in Windows or MacOS, the whole system is high passed at something stupid like 1k. I can change all I want in the software, but there is no sound below that.
> 
> I should have bought the Helix...
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> And while I'm ranting, if there is nothing connected when starting the software, and a user wants to just quit the software, DON'T MAKE THEM SET SOMETHING UP IN SIMULATION MODE FIRST, THAT IS JUST STUPID! JUST LET THE PERSON CLOSE THE DAMN APP!


i'm selling a helix v eight dsp if interested


----------



## msmith

LumbermanSVO said:


> At the moment I just want to pull the ****er and return it.
> 
> 
> 
> After letting it sit for several hours I was finally able to connect the software to it. But now, whatever I set the crossovers to is wildly inaccurate. It doesn't matter if I use TüN in Windows or MacOS, the whole system is high passed at something stupid like 1k. I can change all I want in the software, but there is no sound below that.
> 
> 
> 
> I should have bought the Helix...
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> 
> 
> And while I'm ranting, if there is nothing connected when starting the software, and a user wants to just quit the software, DON'T MAKE THEM SET SOMETHING UP IN SIMULATION MODE FIRST, THAT IS JUST STUPID! JUST LET THE PERSON CLOSE THE DAMN APP!




This is all pretty strange. Please contact our Tech Support Dept at 888-JLAUDIO, Mon-Fri. 

We will help you figure it out and get it all working properly. I run a Mac with TuN. It works. Something went sideways in the update process.


----------



## LumbermanSVO

I spent quite a bit of time on the phone with JL today, and exchanged emails. Things are better, but I've run out of time and the desire to mess with it. I leave on a trip in the morning and won't have any real time to mess with it until mid-June. *I kinda wish I had spent my time pulling the amp to return it, instead of trying to fix it.*

As it sits right now, I have a digital line running from the APL1 to the VXi. If I attempt to use that line the volume is VERY low, full of distortion, and everything from mid-vocal on down is gone. Also, the crossovers don't seem to do anything. This is with the APL1 set to no tune, and -15db across the whole passband. I get the SAME results if I go digital directly out of the BT receiver, or HDMI audio de-embedder.

I also have an analog line running from the APL1 to inputs 1+2. With this I get the full frequency response, and it seems like all the power is there. It actually sounds ok, until I touch the DRC, then I get distortion that doesn't go away until I reboot the amp. Same if I have the app connected, it all works fine, until I make a change, then I get distortion.

I also ran a line from the analog out of the HDMI de-embedder to inputs 3+4 and get the same results as I do with analog from the APL1.

The DRC works now, partially. I can adjust volume, but can't change tunes.

Things I've done today include reconfiguring the signal chain several times, using every possible combination of input devices I have on hand. Resetting the amp, we were going to try and force the amp into DFU mode to manually do a firmware upgrade, but they don't know how to manually upgrade the firmware from MacOS.

I'm taking the car to the tournament tomorrow, so for the drive I get to either listen to nothing, headphones, or distortion. I won't really have any time to troubleshoot at this tournament, but I'm thinking I should bring the box so I can pull the amp and send it back if I get some time.


----------



## TerryGreen5986

LumbermanSVO said:


> I spent quite a bit of time on the phone with JL today, and exchanged emails. Things are better, but I've run out of time and the desire to mess with it. I leave on a trip in the morning and won't have any real time to mess with it until mid-June. *I kinda wish I had spent my time pulling the amp to return it, instead of trying to fix it.*
> 
> 
> 
> As it sits right now, I have a digital line running from the APL1 to the VXi. If I attempt to use that line the volume is VERY low, full of distortion, and everything from mid-vocal on down is gone. Also, the crossovers don't seem to do anything. This is with the APL1 set to no tune, and -15db across the whole passband. I get the SAME results if I go digital directly out of the BT receiver, or HDMI audio de-embedder.
> 
> 
> 
> I also have an analog line running from the APL1 to inputs 1+2. With this I get the full frequency response, and it seems like all the power is there. It actually sounds ok, until I touch the DRC, then I get distortion that doesn't go away until I reboot the amp. Same if I have the app connected, it all works fine, until I make a change, then I get distortion.
> 
> 
> 
> I also ran a line from the analog out of the HDMI de-embedder to inputs 3+4 and get the same results as I do with analog from the APL1.
> 
> 
> 
> The DRC works now, partially. I can adjust volume, but can't change tunes.
> 
> 
> 
> Things I've done today include reconfiguring the signal chain several times, using every possible combination of input devices I have on hand. Resetting the amp, we were going to try and force the amp into DFU mode to manually do a firmware upgrade, but they don't know how to manually upgrade the firmware from MacOS.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm taking the car to the tournament tomorrow, so for the drive I get to either listen to nothing, headphones, or distortion. I won't really have any time to troubleshoot at this tournament, but I'm thinking I should bring the box so I can pull the amp and send it back if I get some time.




This really sucks. I hope u get everything worked out. I almost went with the VXI’s, but I kinda felt like having separate amps & DSP would be a little easier on my brain (especially when it comes to diagnosing issues). Good luck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dafabricata3

It'll be a few weeks before I get a chance to install my system so made a board to familiarize myself with the TüN software.
So far I'm really liking it. Looking forward to the Bluetooth link and the remote. It'll be nice to tune wirelessly using a tablet as opposed to the large laptop.


----------



## msmith

Dafabricata3 said:


> It'll be a few weeks before I get a chance to install my system so made a board to familiarize myself with the TüN software.
> So far I'm really liking it. Looking forward to the Bluetooth link and the remote. It'll be nice to tune wirelessly using a tablet as opposed to the large laptop.


Very nice test rig! Let us know if you have any questions.


----------



## GMCtrk

Crutchfield keeps pushing back the availability date on the 1000/5, now mid May. Very frustrating.


----------



## qwank

So does this have high level inputs to run a stock radio without a LOC?


----------



## diy.phil

Yes there is an LOC in there. Be sure to read the specs for the max input voltage. Will be compatible with most low to medium powered stock radios/amps. If it's a superpower stock radio/amp (h/k, b&o and the like), the voltage will be too high (not compatible).


----------



## ck4242

And remember, as stated earlier in this thread, the VXi does not do an de-EQ'ing or de-TA'ing. Wish it did. Would save me having to put a FIX in front of it.


----------



## TerryGreen5986

ck4242 said:


> And remember, as stated earlier in this thread, the VXi does not do an de-EQ'ing or de-TA'ing. Wish it did. Would save me having to put a FIX in front of it.




Moooore money to spend 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jlugo360

ck4242 said:


> And remember, as stated earlier in this thread, the VXi does not do an de-EQ'ing or de-TA'ing. Wish it did. Would save me having to put a FIX in front of it.




Post #105


----------



## qwank

diy.phil said:


> Yes there is an LOC in there. Be sure to read the specs for the max input voltage. Will be compatible with most low to medium powered stock radios/amps.  If it's a superpower stock radio/amp (h/k, b&o and the like), the voltage will be too high (not compatible).



So what do you do to hook it up, cut the RCAs off and tie into the lines? 



ck4242 said:


> And remember, as stated earlier in this thread, the VXi does not do an de-EQ'ing or de-TA'ing. Wish it did. Would save me having to put a FIX in front of it.


Oh, this might be a deal breaker right here. I think the Alpine unit might have bumped back up to the top of the list for me. I was really hoping for a one device that did everything as I don't have much room in my truck's cab.


----------



## ck4242

qwank said:


> So what do you do to hook it up, cut the RCAs off and tie into the lines?
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, this might be a deal breaker right here. I think the Alpine unit might have bumped back up to the top of the list for me. I was really hoping for a one device that did everything as I don't have much room in my truck's cab.


Unless I'm misunderstanding you here, there won't be an RCA connector on the ends. If you're needing to feed the amp with speaker level outputs from the HU, then you cut the connections to the speakers and divert them to the input of the amp.

As for the FIX, if physical size is your primary constraint, then more than likely I would think having to add the FIX wouldn't be a problem. The thing is pretty small (4.3x6.2x1.9). Think big iPhone, but wider and 2" thick. That's it.

As for the Alpine (guessing the PXA-H800), it will accept speaker level inputs too, but as far as I know, it also does not do any de-EQ'ing or de-TA'ing on the inputs. As far as I can find, none of the DSP's do. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong here.
Oh...and the PXA-H800 doesn't have a built-in amp either. It's just a DSP.


----------



## qwank

ck4242 said:


> Unless I'm misunderstanding you here, there won't be an RCA connector on the ends. If you're needing to feed the amp with speaker level outputs from the HU, then you cut the connections to the speakers and divert them to the input of the amp.
> 
> As for the FIX, if physical size is your primary constraint, then more than likely I would think having to add the FIX wouldn't be a problem. The thing is pretty small (4.3x6.2x1.9). Think big iPhone, but wider and 2" thick. That's it.
> 
> As for the Alpine (guessing the PXA-H800), it will accept speaker level inputs too, but as far as I know, it also does not do any de-EQ'ing or de-TA'ing on the inputs. As far as I can find, none of the DSP's do. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong here.
> Oh...and the PXA-H800 doesn't have a built-in amp either. It's just a DSP.


I was talking about the PXE-0850S, which has internal amplification, although only 25w per channel. but I think I might be confusing De-TAing with actual TAing. 

So what is de-EQ'ing and de-TA'ing? and does the VXi series do time alignment? I saw 10 band eq.


----------



## ck4242

qwank said:


> I was talking about the PXE-0850S, which has internal amplification, although only 25w per channel. but I think I might be confusing De-TAing with actual TAing.
> 
> So what is de-EQ'ing and de-TA'ing? and does the VXi series do time alignment? I saw 10 band eq.


I stand corrected. Didn't realize any of the Alpine DSPs had built-in amps. Cool.
From what I can tell about it though, still no input de-EQ/TA on it. 
For me at least, the 8x25W is on the weak side. Nice DSP otherwise.
The VXi amp I'm looking at, 600/6i, is 6x75W (@4ohms)....which I'm perfectly happy with.


----------



## qwank

ck4242 said:


> I stand corrected. Didn't realize any of the Alpine DSPs had built-in amps. Cool.
> From what I can tell about it though, still no input de-EQ/TA on it.
> For me at least, the 8x25W is on the weak side. Nice DSP otherwise.
> The VXi amp I'm looking at, 600/6i, is 6x75W (@4ohms)....which I'm perfectly happy with.


Yes, I would need to run a separate amp with the Alpine unit since there's not enough power for my 8'' midbass speakers and probably not even the 3'' mids since they are 6 ohm. 

I'm looking at the VX600/6i also, and will use the Preamp outs for the JL microsub+ that I am using.

So I'm playing around with the JL Tun app and it does appear the VXi will do time alignment, and I do see the 10 band eq in there. So I guess I'm confused with the de-EQ and de-TA

I'm guessing that means it does not get rid of any factory TA or EQing that might be built into the stock unit? If that's the case I don't think I need it with my Silverado's Non-Bose stereo, since that would be the only option that has that type of stuff from the factory. Other wise my radio sends a full range with no time alignment to all speakers.


----------



## TerryGreen5986

qwank said:


> I'm guessing that means it does not get rid of any factory TA or EQing that might be built into the stock unit? If that's the case I don't think I need it with my Silverado's Non-Bose stereo, since that would be the only option that has that type of stuff from the factory. Other wise my radio sends a full range with no time alignment to all speakers.



Correct, a lot of people are keeping their factory HU’s lately because so much is integrated thru them. Kinda sucks to have to buy so many pieces of machinery. Gotta buy a Fix to fix all that....then the amps/DSP’s. Rather than the DSP just fixing all of that for u 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## qwank

TerryGreen5986 said:


> Correct, a lot of people are keeping their factory HU’s lately because so much is integrated thru them. Kinda sucks to have to buy so many pieces of machinery. Gotta buy a Fix to fix all that....then the amps/DSP’s. Rather than the DSP just fixing all of that for u


yeah, I think I should be ok without the fix, so that puts the JL back at the top of my list. I just have to check what the input voltage from my speaker level inputs will be. 

I would pay the extra money for the convenience of using only 1 piece of hardware, but if I needed to spend another 3-400 on the fix then I would be better off with the Alpine unit and a 4 channel amp, for 2/3 the the total cost.


----------



## ck4242

TerryGreen5986 said:


> Correct, a lot of people are keeping their factory HU’s lately because so much is integrated thru them. Kinda sucks to have to buy so many pieces of machinery. Gotta buy a Fix to fix all that....then the amps/DSP’s. Rather than the DSP just fixing all of that for u



This.
Sounds like we're pretty much in the same boat. I'm also going to be using the 600/6i pre-out to send to an amp for a JL micro-sub. :laugh:

I'm in the process now of trying to determine if my non-premium trim level HU has EQ/TA on it. I'm hoping not! Will have a couple hundred not having to buy the FiX....plus I love the simplicity of the VXi being just one piece.


----------



## qwank

ck4242 said:


> This.
> Sounds like we're pretty much in the same boat. I'm also going to be using the 600/6i pre-out to send to an amp for a JL micro-sub. :laugh:
> 
> I'm in the process now of trying to determine if my non-premium trim level HU has EQ/TA on it. I'm hoping not! Will have a couple hundred not having to buy the FiX....plus I love the simplicity of the VXi being just one piece.


Hahaha yup, sounds like we are looking for the exact same thing. 

I think the VX600/6i might be the ticket. 

Thanks for the help :thumbsup:


----------



## qwank

My head unit is putting out 3.7v to each speaker at max volume, so I should have no problem using the line level inputs.


----------



## TerryGreen5986

Anyone happen to know any other products that fix factory eq/time alignment? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## diy.phil

@qwank, they make those fancy cables just to route speaker-level to the rca/phono-type connectors. Cable part number is JL XD-CLRAIC2-SW. (Or can DIY it or use equivalents.)


----------



## rton20s

TerryGreen5986 said:


> Anyone happen to know any other products that fix factory eq/time alignment?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes, the MS-8 had this capability as well. Though, it has been discontinued.


----------



## qwank

diy.phil said:


> @qwank, they make those fancy cables just to route speaker-level to the rca/phono-type connectors. Cable part number is JL XD-CLRAIC2-SW. (Or can DIY it or use equivalents.)


Thanks for the part number, I was going to cut up a set of cables.


----------



## ominous

Anyone heard when the DRC-205 is going to ship? I've checked both online and with a couple of local shops and none of them have it yet.


----------



## ck4242

ominous said:


> Anyone heard when the DRC-205 is going to ship? I've checked both online and with a couple of local shops and none of them have it yet.


Interesting that you mentioned this. Didn't know it even existed. I was planning on the DRC-200. Google search doesn't give any results for this version on the JLA site even....but is listed other places. 
What's the major difference between the 200 and 205?


----------



## nuc01

Can you use the same iPad as source and use it to run the Tun software? 
Thanks,
Mike


----------



## ominous

ck4242 said:


> Interesting that you mentioned this. Didn't know it even existed. I was planning on the DRC-200. Google search doesn't give any results for this version on the JLA site even....but is listed other places.
> What's the major difference between the 200 and 205?


The LED is integrated into the knob on the 205, while it's a separate LED on the 200. I've heard complaints that the LED on the 200 is very bright (some say too bright, especially at night). Also, the 205 looks better (IMO).


----------



## Mlarson67

Manville Smith just posted yesterday on jl4life it would be late July


----------



## GMCtrk

Ended up ordering the 1000/5 from Sonic. JL states on their website Sonic is authorized. Was able to get 12% off pretty surprisingly. Finger crossed I get a good product.


----------



## qwank

GMCtrk said:


> Ended up ordering the 1000/5 from Sonic. JL states on their website Sonic is authorized. Was able to get 12% off pretty surprisingly. Finger crossed I get a good product.


keep us posted. I had the 600/6 in my cart with the flash sale for $972 but didn't pull the trigger. Kinda off wishing I did now.


----------



## ck4242

qwank said:


> GMCtrk said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ended up ordering the 1000/5 from Sonic. JL states on their website Sonic is authorized. Was able to get 12% off pretty surprisingly. Finger crossed I get a good product.
> 
> 
> 
> keep us posted. I had the 600/6 in my cart with the flash sale for $972 but didn't pull the trigger. Kinda off wishing I did now.
Click to expand...

What? Flash sale? How do i get notified for those? I would have pulled that trigger on a heartbeat for the 600/6!


----------



## qwank

ck4242 said:


> What? Flash sale? How do i get notified for those? I would have pulled that trigger on a heartbeat for the 600/6!


I just keep checking the website. I've seen it come up a few times. It seems like it's a random discount every time.


----------



## qwank

How do you set the gains on these amps?


----------



## ominous

Mlarson67 said:


> Manville Smith just posted yesterday on jl4life it would be late July


Just saw that. Sucks, but hopefully they get everything working right the first time.


----------



## ominous

qwank said:


> How do you set the gains on these amps?


It's done through the Tun software. You can download it and play around with the features for all the different amps in the simulation mode.


----------



## qwank

ominous said:


> It's done through the Tun software. You can download it and play around with the features for all the different amps in the simulation mode.


I've been messing with the laptop and phone version. Just not sure which function is for gain.


----------



## ominous

qwank said:


> I've been messing with the laptop and phone version. Just not sure which function is for gain.


I haven't got the 800/8 installed yet so I can't say for sure, but it looks like you have both an input ("Setup" tab under "Mixer Level Trim") and output ("Tune" tab, under "Outputs" section there is a "Level Trim") gains.


----------



## GMCtrk

got my 1000/5 from Sonic. All is good. Can't believe how small it is. Digging the design too.


----------



## GMCtrk

Just out of curiosity, what would you guys say is the best way to connect the speaker wire to the output wires on the vxi? The JL wires look to be 16 ga. All my speakers are wired with 12 ga. I don't necessarily want a permanent connection as JL did not leave a lot of length.


----------



## ominous

GMCtrk said:


> Just out of curiosity, what would you guys say is the best way to connect the speaker wire to the output wires on the vxi? The JL wires look to be 16 ga. All my speakers are wired with 12 ga. I don't necessarily want a permanent connection as JL did not leave a lot of length.


Bullet connectors. I've used them with pretty good results.


----------



## qwank

ck4242 said:


> What? Flash sale? How do i get notified for those? I would have pulled that trigger on a heartbeat for the 600/6!


flash sale is going on again. I grabbed one for $966


----------



## ck4242

qwank said:


> flash sale is going on again. I grabbed one for $966


Just looked. Still seeing original price.


----------



## qwank

ck4242 said:


> Just looked. Still seeing original price.


You must have just missed it. I bet the sale ended at the top of the hour.


----------



## ck4242

qwank said:


> You must have just missed it. I bet the sale ended at the top of the hour.



crap, crap, crappity, crap!


----------



## qwank

GMCtrk said:


> Ended up ordering the 1000/5 from Sonic. JL states on their website Sonic is authorized. Was able to get 12% off pretty surprisingly. Finger crossed I get a good product.


how did you get 12% off?

Edit: it's still showing flash sale for me on some items. the 1000/5 is one of them


----------



## GMCtrk

qwank said:


> how did you get 12% off?
> 
> Edit: it's still showing flash sale for me on some items. the 1000/5 is one of them


I used the flash sale. 

Also, I got the RD 900/5 out and the VXI 1000/5 in. 

The size of the VXI compared to the 900/5 is incredible. 

Controlling everything from laptop and real time tuning changes is exceptional. 

I am running Focal 165 krxs on the front 4 channels and a 12w3v3 in the HO box off a RSX-GS9 head unit.

I can't help but think that the Focal mids need more than 100watts. They seem to kick a little harder than when I had them passive off the Focal xovers. 

In regards to the gains, I'm seeing the same issue I had with the RD amp. I am using JL's 1khz and 50 Hz test tones. With the 50 Hz tone and setting the sub gains it turns red at setting 5. With the mids and the 1khz tone I can turn it all the way up to 11 and it doesn't budge from green. With the 50 Hz tone it turns red at 7 I believe.

Also, Manville stated that the VXI have input clipping indicators as well. How does this work?


----------



## ominous

GMCtrk said:


> I used the flash sale.
> 
> Also, I got the RD 900/5 out and the VXI 1000/5 in.
> 
> The size of the VXI compared to the 900/5 is incredible.
> 
> Controlling everything from laptop and real time tuning changes is exceptional.
> 
> I am running Focal 165 krxs on the front 4 channels and a 12w3v3 in the HO box off a RSX-GS9 head unit.
> 
> I can't help but think that the Focal mids need more than 100watts. They seem to kick a little harder than when I had them passive off the Focal xovers.
> 
> In regards to the gains, I'm seeing the same issue I had with the RD amp. I am using JL's 1khz and 50 Hz test tones. With the 50 Hz tone and setting the sub gains it turns red at setting 5. With the mids and the 1khz tone I can turn it all the way up to 11 and it doesn't budge from green. With the 50 Hz tone it turns red at 7 I believe.
> 
> Also, Manville stated that the VXI have input clipping indicators as well. How does this work?


On the Setup tab, click the >> to expand the Input window. The clipping indicators are next to the dropdown for the Input Levels.

Also, was reading this on JL's support page:

https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360001188267-VXi-Amplifier-Level-Setting-Guide

It looks like you basically adjust the input sensitivity, then use the output level trim (gain) to fine tune each channel from there.


----------



## GMCtrk

I haven't had a lot of time to work with the amp yet, but this amp transformed my setup. It's not surprising going from a setup with essentially no tuning other than rudimentary crossover settings on the old RD amp. Even just getting my time alignment in the ballpark made a massive difference. 

As far as the input settings, not sure I have them ideal yet, but mids are at 8, tweeters are 4 and sub is 6. At volume 40/50 playing Billie Jean in DSD the mids are thumping and I get intermittent flashes of yellow suggesting ideal output. I may need to lower the gain to 7 as I haven't gone up higher than 40 on the volume. 

I've yet to touch any of the EQ settings. I have the SoundTools app that can use my iphone mic but I'm not sure how accurate it will be compared to a real RTA mic.


----------



## qwank

I got my vx600/6i in today. What a quality piece this thing is. I can't wait to install it.


----------



## 01LSi

My HD 900/5 sub channel took a dump. I'm deciding if I should.

repair it for $180

Bi amp it and supplement it with a vxi or 1000/1 and lose the helix for the tun software 

Or lose the HD 900/5 entirely and replace it with just the HD line 600/4 and 1000/1 ... 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 01LSi

It would be less difficult for me to decide if the wattage ratings were equivalent but at 4 ohms the vxi get to 75 RMS. Maybe that's still fine but I kinda don't wanna financially experiment with that.


----------



## TerryGreen5986

Bdubz said:


> Or lose the HD 900/5 entirely and replace it with just the HD line 600/4 and 1000/1 ...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




HD600/4 and HD1200/1


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## onetechyguy

GMCtrk said:


> I used the flash sale.
> 
> Also, I got the RD 900/5 out and the VXI 1000/5 in.
> 
> The size of the VXI compared to the 900/5 is incredible.
> 
> Controlling everything from laptop and real time tuning changes is exceptional.
> 
> I am running Focal 165 krxs on the front 4 channels and a 12w3v3 in the HO box off a RSX-GS9 head unit.
> 
> I can't help but think that the Focal mids need more than 100watts. They seem to kick a little harder than when I had them passive off the Focal xovers.
> 
> In regards to the gains, I'm seeing the same issue I had with the RD amp. I am using JL's 1khz and 50 Hz test tones. With the 50 Hz tone and setting the sub gains it turns red at setting 5. With the mids and the 1khz tone I can turn it all the way up to 11 and it doesn't budge from green. With the 50 Hz tone it turns red at 7 I believe.
> 
> Also, Manville stated that the VXI have input clipping indicators as well. How does this work?


How would you compare your VXi 1000/5 to the RD900/5 besides the tuning capability? Is it better sounding overall, any more cleaner power? Thanks


----------



## GMCtrk

Sound quality is identical as far as I can tell.

Power output on the front 4 channels seems to be identical.

Sub is a tad more powerful as reflected by the 500 vs 600 watt rating.

I do wish the front channels were more powerful. I feel like my mids are begging for more power to come to life.


----------



## Smash

GMCtrk said:


> Sound quality is identical as far as I can tell.
> 
> Power output on the front 4 channels seems to be identical.
> 
> Sub is a tad more powerful as reflected by the 500 vs 600 watt rating.
> 
> I do wish the front channels were more powerful. I feel like my mids are begging for more power to come to life.


Worth the difference? 

I've got both of these sitting in my garage and debating between the two. Trying to determine if the $1000 more is worth it or I should return them.

Config 1
JL TWK88
JL RD900/5
JL RD400/4

Config 2
VXi 800/8
VXi 1000/1

I'm only pushing one sub but using all other 8 channels. 

What's your thoughts?


----------



## GMCtrk

Smash said:


> Worth the difference?
> 
> I've got both of these sitting in my garage and debating between the two. Trying to determine if the $1000 more is worth it or I should return them.
> 
> Config 1
> JL TWK88
> JL RD900/5
> JL RD400/4
> 
> Config 2
> VXi 800/8
> VXi 1000/1
> 
> I'm only pushing one sub but using all other 8 channels.
> 
> What's your thoughts?


Yes. definitely worth it. Less hardware, less wires, smaller amps.

Computer control of amps easily trumps manual dials on amp. RD900/5 crossovers are not defeatable. 

Plus you will have way more sub power with the Vxi combo.


----------



## qwank

Smash said:


> Worth the difference?
> 
> I've got both of these sitting in my garage and debating between the two. Trying to determine if the $1000 more is worth it or I should return them.
> 
> Config 1
> JL TWK88
> JL RD900/5
> JL RD400/4
> 
> Config 2
> VXi 800/8
> VXi 1000/1
> 
> I'm only pushing one sub but using all other 8 channels.
> 
> What's your thoughts?


I'd use the VXi800/8 with a less expensive 1000w amp for the sub. you can still use all the DSP and EQ functions on the preamp out of the vxi800/8 and send it to the sub amp. I think having a VXi sub amp would be redundant.


----------



## Smash

qwank said:


> I'd use the VXi800/8 with a less expensive 1000w amp for the sub. you can still use all the DSP and EQ functions on the preamp out of the vxi800/8 and send it to the sub amp. I think having a VXi sub amp would be redundant.


I have an RD500/1 as well. I'm just not sure I can get over my OCD of amps not matching even though I won't see it 99% of the time.


----------



## qwank

Smash said:


> I have an RD500/1 as well. I'm just not sure I can get over my OCD of amps not matching even though I won't see it 99% of the time.


I understand this completely. LOL I'm using JLA and Alpine stuff in my latest build and it's bothering me that it's not all the same brand haha


----------



## onetechyguy

GMCtrk said:


> Sound quality is identical as far as I can tell.
> 
> Power output on the front 4 channels seems to be identical.
> 
> Sub is a tad more powerful as reflected by the 500 vs 600 watt rating.
> 
> I do wish the front channels were more powerful. I feel like my mids are begging for more power to come to life.


Ok, That suprises me. I would think for the extra money the VXi's cost that they would sound overall better than the lower end RD's? They should be using better internal components. Makes me wonder if they are worth the extra cash just to simplify? Wonder if anyone else has compared these to their RD or XD line of amps?


----------



## GMCtrk

onetechyguy said:


> Ok, That suprises me. I would think for the extra money the VXi's cost that they would sound overall better than the lower end RD's? They should be using better internal components. Makes me wonder if they are worth the extra cash just to simplify? Wonder if anyone else has compared these to their RD or XD line of amps?


I can't speak to the internal components, but it's long been said by many of those in the know that you can't hear a difference between amps. In this case I'd say it's true.

That extra $$$ is going into the technology, more compact chassis, etc.


----------



## ominous

Just got my 8 channel VXi installed. Planning on spending the rest of the day tuning it. There's a noticeable difference in the way the components sound running passive versus active, and that's with only the crossover and gains set so far.


----------



## qwank

ominous said:


> Just got my 8 channel VXi installed. Planning on spending the rest of the day tuning it. There's a noticeable difference in the way the components sound running passive versus active, and that's with only the crossover and gains set so far.


a better difference?


----------



## GMCtrk

Played with the 1000/5 a little more, reset the gains. With the rsx-gs9 maxed out it seems that the gains on 3/11 for mids, tweets and sub is about the most I can get out of the amp before clipping occurs (Red lights). Sub hits pretty decent but I'm thinking of switching from the 12w6v3 HO to the 13w7 prowedge with a dedicated sub amp.


----------



## ominous

qwank said:


> a better difference?


Yes, better. The tweets have more presence than before. Might be related to the setting on the passives (-2db). 

I'll check again after I spend some time tuning the system this evening.


----------



## msmith

qwank said:


> I've been messing with the laptop and phone version. Just not sure which function is for gain.


There is an input sensitivity for each analog input in the Input Section of the Setup tab. 

There is also an output level trim on each output channel, in the Tune Tab.


----------



## GMCtrk

I've replaced my vxi 1000/5 with 2 rockford amps for power upgrade. I've got to say, I really love the vxi amp. Tuning/setting gains is so freaking nice being able to just mute the speakers by laptop. Sonically the amp is tremendous and really quite powerful for it's tiny size. Nothing bad to say about the vxi....may come back to them in the future.


----------



## gumbeelee

GMCtrk said:


> Played with the 1000/5 a little more, reset the gains. With the rsx-gs9 maxed out it seems that the gains on 3/11 for mids, tweets and sub is about the most I can get out of the amp before clipping occurs (Red lights). Sub hits pretty decent but I'm thinking of switching from the 12w6v3 HO to the 13w7 prowedge with a dedicated sub amp.




The gs9 clip at 49, so if i were u i would not go past 48, just a little friendly advice


Sent from my iPhone X using Tapatalk


----------



## GMCtrk

gumbeelee said:


> The gs9 clip at 49, so if i were u i would not go past 48, just a little friendly advice
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone X using Tapatalk


using a 0 dB test tone MY GS9 clips at 50/50. 49 is clear.


----------



## gumbeelee

GMCtrk said:


> using a 0 dB test tone MY GS9 clips at 50/50. 49 is clear.




Wow, i went to my local shop and we tested with oscope and dd1 and it clipped at 49, but hey thats cool yours made it to 50, u r the first i talked to on here that it didnt get past 48...i take that back one other person had one that was clean at 49....FOR THE PRICE IT SHOULD BE CLEAN PERIOD!! My p99rs was clean


Sent from my iPhone X using Tapatalk


----------



## GMCtrk

gumbeelee said:


> Wow, i went to my local shop and we tested with oscope and dd1 and it clipped at 49, but hey thats cool yours made it to 50, u r the first i talked to on here that it didnt get past 48...i take that back one other person had one that was clean at 49....FOR THE PRICE IT SHOULD BE CLEAN PERIOD!! My p99rs was clean
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone X using Tapatalk


I'm with you, I'm not sure why they would build a unit that sent out a clipped signal. It's not really relevant though as I dont listen at 50/50 not to mention music isn't really 0 dB.


----------



## lemntl

does anyone know when JL will release the DRC-205 for these amps?


----------



## ominous

lemntl said:


> does anyone know when JL will release the DRC-205 for these amps?


Supposed to be sometime later this month. I got the 8 channel and the BT module, just waiting on the DRC to be able to switch between my different presets and have subwoofer control. 

On a side note, it would be nice if JL would add the capability to switch between presets on the smartphone app.


----------



## LumbermanSVO

JL has had my VXi amp for over a week and I haven't heard a word from them. I emailed on Monday asking for an update on my RMA and got no response.


----------



## ominous

Damn, that sucks. Sorry to hear you're having issues.


----------



## bbfoto

LumbermanSVO said:


> JL has had my VXi amp for over a week and I haven't heard a word from them. I emailed on Monday asking for an update on my RMA and got no response.


Wow, that's surprising...and disappointing to hear.  It would at least be nice to get a quick email back just to acknowledge that your email was received saying, "we'll look into it and get back to you when we know the status...''


----------



## LumbermanSVO

I got ahold of someone today, my RA had been approved, but it somehow got lost in the shipping queue. The replacement is now being overnighted to me and will arrive tomorrow!


----------



## bbfoto

LumbermanSVO said:


> I got ahold of someone today, my RA had been approved, but it somehow got lost in the shipping queue. The replacement is now being overnighted to me and will arrive tomorrow!


Great to hear! Still a bummer that no one responded to your email inqury and that YOU had to hunt them down to get it sorted. But glad that it has been taken care of none the less!


----------



## Elgrosso

Cool review from Russia: https://translate.google.ee/translate?sl=ru&tl=en&u=https://carmus.ru/content/277

(Original link if it doesn’t work: https://carmus.ru/content/277)

No in-depth measurements like for some other amps but some good details and feedback.


----------



## ErinH

I'll add my completely subjective two cents here...


Back when I was beta testing these I found one thing that really surprised me when I did some A/B tests against the JL XDv2 series of amps and another couple of "high end" amps I had on hand at the time: the open-ness of the soundstage on these XVi amps was superb! I chalked this up to psychoacoustics but I talked with a couple other fellow beta testers who said they noticed the same thing (even without me mentioning my results to them). Interesting.

I was also at the HAT SQology show a couple weekends ago. In Atlanta. In the summer. It was crazy hot. So hot, in fact, that my Helix DSP thermaled on me and I had to reset the dang thing and put a fan on it. Not one time did my XVi amps have an issue, though. And I also did pretty well at that show with a 2nd place in MECA (behind the legendary Steve Head's Blazer) and 2 1st place finishes in IASCA in my classes. 

I honestly didn't expect the SQ to be great out of these amps because, well, they're itty bitty and packed with DSP... I figure _somewhere_ there had to be a compromise in the sound quality. But to my ears these things are fantastic and from the feedback I got at that show I don't think there's anyone who would fault these amps' sonic capabilities.


----------



## bbfoto

^Thanks for your impressions, Erin. And congrats on the MECA & IASCA placings as well. 

For as much as I hounded Manville about their "shortcomings" (for my use case scenario), I still would really like to give these a whirl. But [email protected], those big connectors on the side do kill it for me with the space that I have available.  

And, I already have a few DSPs that I'm very familiar with and really like, so that's another reason that I just haven't considered them any further. Maybe in another vehicle...hmmm.


----------



## ErinH

bbfoto said:


> But [email protected], those big connectors on the side do kill it for me with the space that I have available.


With how small the amps are, the size of the blocks may be a 'wash'. Just something to consider.


----------



## bbfoto

ErinH said:


> With how small the amps are, the size of the blocks may be a 'wash'. Just something to consider.


Thanks. It might work for some, but I already measured and it's a no-go.  If I thought that there was any possibility of them fitting, I'd probably have them in hand already. 

Thanks again.


----------



## ErinH

Measure again. I won’t accept a single attempt as adequate.


----------



## jrock645

Just had my system installed. 2 5 channel vxi’s, along with a Fix 82 and vxi hub. Hertz Mille 3 way front, Mille coax rears and 2 JL 10Tw1’s. Sounds amazing!


----------



## bbfoto

jrock645 said:


> Just had my system installed. 2 5 channel vxi’s, along with a Fix 82 and vxi hub. Hertz Mille 3 way front, Mille coax rears and 2 JL 10Tw1’s. Sounds amazing!


Nice. Enjoy the new system! 

Man, I wish that PAC made an _AmpPRO_ interface module for these vehicles! It would probably sound even that much more amazing due to getting a clean line-level preouts signal directly from the OEM HU instead of having to "FiX" the signal after it's been molested by the OEM amplifier. 

But for now the FiX does an amazing job and we'd be SOL without it!


----------



## GMCtrk

Does anyone yet know how to monitor input clipping on the VXI?


----------



## ominous

GMCtrk said:


> Does anyone yet know how to monitor input clipping on the VXI?


Open your TUN project, go to the "Setup" tab. Next to Inputs is a double arrow (>>) symbol. Click it to expand the window. It shows input levels for each speaker pair, and next to that is a blinking light. If it's red the input signal is clipping.


----------



## GMCtrk

How is that differentiated from output clipping?


----------



## t3sn4f2

GMCtrk said:


> How is that differentiated from output clipping?


Input clipping is when you send too high a voltage for the input stage components (ie internal preamp) to handle and it overloads them (for a given input sensitivity setting). Clipping the signal to be sent to the DSP and/or be amplified. 

Output clipping is when you use too much of the input stages clean gain headroom and it result in the amps output stage not being able to amplify it by the gain factor being asked. The input stage never clips but the input's internal preamp overloads the outputs capabilities for the given input voltage

Output clipping is going to be more dangerous for the speakers since there we are not only talking about a clipped higher average power signal (not as devastating), but a very _powerful_ one that has enough energy to melt coils or damage drivers.


----------



## ominous

What he said.

BTW, the output clipping indicators are the lights down in the "Outputs" section (on both the "Setup" and "Tune" tabs). Works the same way (green is good, yellow is getting close, red is clipping). So the TUN software has both input and output clipping indicators.


----------



## GMCtrk

Guess I wasn't fully aware of the software. However, I thought when I changed the "input level" (value 1-11) the lights in the input section would behave differently. I.e. go to a higher number value would result in more yellow light than green. So I thought these were the indicators for amplifier clipping.


----------



## ominous

Theoretically, the higher you set the input levels the more likely you are to go into clipping. But the behavior of those lights is based on whether the channels are clipping or not. I read on JL's site that you should set the input level (gains) by increasing it until the light turns yellow, then stop and you're all set. I can't remember if that was for the TwK or the VXi, though. 

I have all of mine at 2 except the subwoofer, which is at 3. They go yellow when the music is really pounding, but mostly stay in the green. Its working out well so far, and it's dead silent between tracks. I tested it with a 0 bit noise track and I can't hear a thing until near max volume, which is way than I listen to it.


----------



## GMCtrk

Setting mine at 3 was the highest I could go without clipping the output.

According to my RF amp, my source clips at 50/50 but I can't remember what it was according the VXI.


----------



## ominous

I'm running my system through a Fix-86 which has a selectable output voltage. It makes a difference when I set the input levels.


----------



## LumbermanSVO

I was out of town when my replacement 800/8 was delivered to my work. I got home today and swung by the office to pick up the amp. When I sent my original amp back I sent it in the factory box, but with no extra parts, JUST the amp. What I opened up today was a full retail package, including plugs, cables, stickers, tools, owners manual and all. I was expecting just an amp, nothing else.

Thanks JL for doing more than I expected!


----------



## diy.phil

^really nice!


----------



## msmith

GMCtrk said:


> How is that differentiated from output clipping?


Input clipping is to be avoided at all costs in a dsp-based product. We want to make sure that the analog-to-digital conversion is clean. Input clipping in a digital system has a crunchy sound that is extremely annoying.


----------



## msmith

LumbermanSVO said:


> I was out of town when my replacement 800/8 was delivered to my work. I got home today and swung by the office to pick up the amp. When I sent my original amp back I sent it in the factory box, but with no extra parts, JUST the amp. What I opened up today was a full retail package, including plugs, cables, stickers, tools, owners manual and all. I was expecting just an amp, nothing else.
> 
> Thanks JL for doing more than I expected!


Sorry about the mixup and the slow communication. Glad you got your amp running again. Thank you for choosing JL Audio.


----------



## msmith

ominous said:


> I'm running my system through a Fix-86 which has a selectable output voltage. It makes a difference when I set the input levels.


Yes, of course... the VXi's input section's sensitivity needs to be adjusted to the voltage of the source feeding it. 

If you run a FiX 82, you can use the optical output to feed the VXi and never have to deal with input sensitivity or input clipping.


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## vactor

how much do the plugs add to the depth of the amp? howcome you guys went with the pigtail plugs as opposed to on-amplifier screw down blocks? the old kenwood class D amps had a really great low profile connection block, and the alpine class D F series amps had really awesome plugs that were low profile and you could just connect your wires to them and remove them for service. this seems ... just odd to me that JL, who is kinda THE name in car audio went with the large and odd pigtails. i wanna put one of these under the seat of my 981 porsche but it might end up being too deep ...


----------



## GMCtrk

vactor said:


> how much do the plugs add to the depth of the amp? howcome you guys went with the pigtail plugs as opposed to on-amplifier screw down blocks? the old kenwood class D amps had a really great low profile connection block, and the alpine class D F series amps had really awesome plugs that were low profile and you could just connect your wires to them and remove them for service. this seems ... just odd to me that JL, who is kinda THE name in car audio went with the large and odd pigtails. i wanna put one of these under the seat of my 981 porsche but it might end up being too deep ...


It's certainly a valid point. The only plug that is semi bulky is the RCAs. I don't mind the plugs but I think I do prefer direct wire input into the amp.


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## ominous

msmith said:


> Yes, of course... the VXi's input section's sensitivity needs to be adjusted to the voltage of the source feeding it.
> 
> If you run a FiX 82, you can use the optical output to feed the VXi and never have to deal with input sensitivity or input clipping.


I chose the FiX-86 for 2 reasons:


To retain my factory HU's balance/fader/subwoofer controls
Because I had no idea a year ago you guys would be coming out with an amp/DSP combo unit that would accept an optical input.

Now all I need to complete my system is that DRC-205...


----------



## msmith

vactor said:


> how much do the plugs add to the depth of the amp? howcome you guys went with the pigtail plugs as opposed to on-amplifier screw down blocks? the old kenwood class D amps had a really great low profile connection block, and the alpine class D F series amps had really awesome plugs that were low profile and you could just connect your wires to them and remove them for service. this seems ... just odd to me that JL, who is kinda THE name in car audio went with the large and odd pigtails. i wanna put one of these under the seat of my 981 porsche but it might end up being too deep ...



The VXi’s are VERY compact in size. 
The decision to use plugs and pigtails was simply a function of available real estate. If you look at a 5ch or 6ch model, for example, you have six input RCA’s, plus two preout RCA’s, a valet and turn on output wire, two Toslink connectors, two ethernet ports, a USB type B port, six speaker outputs and a healthy power/gnd/remote connector. Now look at the size of the amp. 9-13/16"W x 2-1/8"H x 6-3/4"D

To use traditional connectors, the amps would have had to be much larger. Also, it’s not like traditional connectors don’t stick out. The power and RCA connections add about 1.75 inches to the size of an XD amp, for example. The wires have to go somewhere. 

The removable plugs also make it possible to make all RCA, power and speaker connections without the amp being in place, which helps in many tight space installations. 

I totally get that cable management is a challenge, but it kind of comes with the territory as you miniaturize the amplifier. We tried our best to make it install-friendly. 

It certainly takes up less room than using an outboard dsp and an XD, for example. 

Best regards,

Manville Smith
JL Audio, Inc.


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## bbfoto

msmith said:


> The VXi’s are VERY compact in size.
> The decision to use plugs and pigtails was simply a function of available real estate.
> ....
> 
> I totally get that cable management is a challenge, but it kind of comes with the territory as you miniaturize the amplifier. We tried our best to make it install-friendly.
> 
> *It certainly takes up less room than using an outboard dsp and an XD, for example.*
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Manville Smith
> JL Audio, Inc.


...Until you need to install & use the *VXi-HUB*. Then you're pretty much back to square one.   I know, I know...


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## msmith

bbfoto said:


> ...Until you need to install & use the *VXi-HUB*. Then you're pretty much back to square one.   I know, I know...




You only need that with three or more amps, typically. And it’s just Ethernet and (optionally), optical cables. Without the hub you would still need to interconnect the amps to distribute the signal and JLid commands. 

Next version of VXi will be completely wireless. The speaker and power connections are a challenge.


----------



## vactor

msmith said:


> The VXi’s are VERY compact in size.
> The decision to use plugs and pigtails was simply a function of available real estate. If you look at a 5ch or 6ch model, for example, you have six input RCA’s, plus two preout RCA’s, a valet and turn on output wire, two Toslink connectors, two ethernet ports, a USB type B port, six speaker outputs and a healthy power/gnd/remote connector. Now look at the size of the amp. 9-13/16"W x 2-1/8"H x 6-3/4"D
> 
> To use traditional connectors, the amps would have had to be much larger. Also, it’s not like traditional connectors don’t stick out. The power and RCA connections add about 1.75 inches to the size of an XD amp, for example. The wires have to go somewhere.
> 
> The removable plugs also make it possible to make all RCA, power and speaker connections without the amp being in place, which helps in many tight space installations.
> 
> I totally get that cable management is a challenge, but it kind of comes with the territory as you miniaturize the amplifier. We tried our best to make it install-friendly.
> 
> It certainly takes up less room than using an outboard dsp and an XD, for example.
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Manville Smith
> JL Audio, Inc.


everything is a compromise when you have more than one factor in play, so i quite appreciate that you guys made some good decisions. what is the depth of the VXi amps with the connectors, anyone got measurements? the 6 channel is perfect it seems for my needs , i just have limited under seat real estate. an HD series amp will fit, is the VXi deeper than the HD when it has the plugs in it? thanks!


----------



## msmith

vactor said:


> everything is a compromise when you have more than one factor in play, so i quite appreciate that you guys made some good decisions. what is the depth of the VXi amps with the connectors, anyone got measurements? the 6 channel is perfect it seems for my needs , i just have limited under seat real estate. an HD series amp will fit, is the VXi deeper than the HD when it has the plugs in it? thanks!



First, keep in mind the HD has a power plug and wires that stick out, too. Including the plug, the HD is 8.29 in deep. Then add your wire bend with a 4 AWG, about 1.5 in more. So your total is about 9.8 in. 

The VXi power wires stick out about 2.5 inches from the chassis which is 6.62 in deep. This 2.5 inches includes the plug and the wire’s minimum bend. So, the total depth is 9.12 inches (about 5/8 in less than the HD). 

The input harness needs about 2 in clearance. Speaker harnesses about 1.5 in.


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## ominous

Coming from a RD900/5 to a VX800/8i, I've got to say I was impressed with the smaller size of the VXi. The RD was just about a half in to wide to fit under my front seat, so it had to be mounted in the trunk. The VXi fit under the drivers seat (connectors and all) with no problems. There's plenty of clearance for the seat to move back and forth and for cooling. It's also keeps the install stealthy, which is a bonus.


----------



## bbfoto

vactor said:


> everything is a compromise when you have more than one factor in play, so i quite appreciate that you guys made some good decisions. what is the depth of the VXi amps with the connectors, anyone got measurements? the 6 channel is perfect it seems for my needs , i just have limited under seat real estate. an HD series amp will fit, is the VXi deeper than the HD when it has the plugs in it? thanks!


As a supplement to Manville's explanation above, _ErinH_ posted some photos earlier in the thread of his previous install that show the amps with the connectors and wires attached....so a general representation of how much extra space they will take.

Manville also attached some photos of the connectors previously as well.


----------



## Sgriffin

Is there a way to increase the input level when using digital input from my NAV TV 650GM interface. My system is not very loud and the input lights are green all the time. I am running a VXI 1000-5 with a JL w6v3 12" in a stealth box, with JL C-5 6.5" components and C-5 6 .5" coaxial speakers in a 2018 ZL1 Camaro. I have the output trims up at 8db,and 12db on the sun channel. Sounds good, but not that loud, no engine noises or turn on/off pops, just not loud. There is a loudness switch on the Nav TV device, but I did not engage it. Head unit tones are flat. VXI eq levels are mostly flat with cuts in the 20HZ, 1k, 8k range and a small boost in the 45 HZ range. I can turn the head unit volume all the way up with no noticeable distortion, everything is new with a couple hours of music played.


----------



## ominous

Sgriffin said:


> Is there a way to increase the input level when using digital input from my NAV TV 650GM interface. My system is not very loud and the input lights are green all the time. I am running a VXI 1000-5 with a JL w6v3 12" in a stealth box, with JL C-5 6.5" components and C-5 6 .5" coaxial speakers in a 2018 ZL1 Camaro. I have the output trims up at 8db,and 12db on the sun channel. Sounds good, but not that loud, no engine noises or turn on/off pops, just not loud. There is a loudness switch on the Nav TV device, but I did not engage it. Head unit tones are flat. VXI eq levels are mostly flat with cuts in the 20HZ, 1k, 8k range and a small boost in the 45 HZ range. I can turn the head unit volume all the way up with no noticeable distortion, everything is new with a couple hours of music played.


You mention the output trims, but what do you have the input levels on the VXi set? Open your project, make sure you're on the Setup tab. Top left portion of the screen it will say Inputs. Next to that will be 2 small arrows (>>). Click it and it will expand the screen to show the Input Level controls. They can be adjusted anywhere from 1 (min) to 11. Try changing them to see if that improves your output volume.


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## Sgriffin

ominous said:


> You mention the output trims, but what do you have the input levels on the VXi set? Open your project, make sure you're on the Setup tab. Top left portion of the screen it will say Inputs. Next to that will be 2 small arrows (>>). Click it and it will expand the screen to show the Input Level controls. They can be adjusted anywhere from 1 (min) to 11. Try changing them to see if that improves your output volume.


I looked in the input setup tab there is no drop down menu or any type of box to increase or decrease the level of the digital input. In the pre EQ trim section the only thing I can do is decrease the level. The max level is 0 db, and that is what mine is set to. The only way i have found to increase the volume while using a digital input is to increase the post EQ level. I think I am going to let the speakers break in more before I do any more boosting in the EQ section. I might try the loudness on the Nav TV device and see if that helps the volume without adding distortion or clipping the input channels. If turning on the loudness causes clipping, I might be able to decrease pre EQ trim enough to get it to the sweet spot.
Thanks for the help, and quick reply. I will report back if I find a solution.


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## ominous

I can see how you missed. The button to access the Input Level controls could be more prominently displayed on the app (maybe a minor fix for a future update to the TUN software).

Check the attached. The first shows where you can locate the button to click to get the Input Level controls, the second shows the Input Level controls themselves.


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## Sgriffin

ominous said:


> I can see how you missed. The button to access the Input Level controls could be more prominently displayed on the app (maybe a minor fix for a future update to the TUN software).
> 
> Check the attached. The first shows where you can locate the button to click to get the Input Level controls, the second shows the Input Level controls themselves.


Mine does not look like that I am using a iPad mini 4, but that is the tab i have been clicking on to access input levels. What are you using to run the Tun software?


----------



## ominous

Oh, okay. I'm using my laptop, not a tablet. So I guess there are differences in the way the software looks depending on the device used. 

I would still think there's a way to do this on the TuN Mobile version. You may want to give JL's tech support a call.


----------



## t3sn4f2

Sgriffin said:


> I looked in the input setup tab there is no drop down menu or any type of box to increase or decrease the level of the digital input. In the pre EQ trim section the only thing I can do is decrease the level. The max level is 0 db, and that is what mine is set to. The only way i have found to increase the volume while using a digital input is to increase the post EQ level. I think I am going to let the speakers break in more before I do any more boosting in the EQ section. *I might try the loudness on the Nav TV device and see if that helps the volume without adding distortion or clipping the input channels.* If turning on the loudness causes clipping, I might be able to decrease pre EQ trim enough to get it to the sweet spot.
> Thanks for the help, and quick reply. I will report back if I find a solution.


Do you mean the "Full Scale output (0 db) vs attenuated output (-12 db)" setting instead of the "Loudness" switch. Because that would be the one that you'd want to switch to "0dB" in order to get more output. The "Loudness" switch just boost the low end as you lower the volume on the head unit, and that one only functions on the analog outputs.


----------



## Sgriffin

ominous said:


> Oh, okay. I'm using my laptop, not a tablet. So I guess there are differences in the way the software looks depending on the device used.
> 
> I would still think there's a way to do this on the TuN Mobile version. You may want to give JL's tech support a call.


I downloaded latest software on my Windows lap top, and it still doesn't have the level adjustment tabs that your thumbnails show. I will call JL tomorrow and talk to tech support. I am only running the one digital cable, no analog cables. I wonder if the level tabs are only present if you run analog cables also, maybe it's there to balance out the different inputs.The Nav TV device has a variable digital output so there is not a need for a master volume knob. Maybe that is keeping the level tabs from appearing. Hopefully JL will be able to answer the questions.


----------



## Sgriffin

t3sn4f2 said:


> Do you mean the "Full Scale output (0 db) vs attenuated output (-12 db)" setting instead of the "Loudness" switch. Because that would be the one that you'd want to switch to "0dB" in order to get more output. The "Loudness" switch just boost the low end as you lower the volume on the head unit, and that one only functions on the analog outputs.


I am currently running the dip switches in the all up (default) position which is 0DB, and loudness off.


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## msmith

Sgriffin:

The digital input does not have any Input Sensitivity adjustments. It does not need any. Digital 0 (max level) is a known quantity.

The NavTV interface (I use one in my car) works very well using the optical output to feed a VXi. I'm using that exact setup in my Cadillac. You do have to run the factory volume up pretty high to get really loud, but there's no lack of output. The audio stays clean all the way to full volume on the factory head unit.

With an analog input you can get the volume to come up faster, which makes it seem "livelier" and louder, but when you do that you will be inviting distortion at higher levels. The digital input will be cleaner every time.


----------



## Sgriffin

msmith said:


> Sgriffin:
> 
> The digital input does not have any Input Sensitivity adjustments. It does not need any. Digital 0 (max level) is a known quantity.
> 
> The NavTV interface (I use one in my car) works very well using the optical output to feed a VXi. I'm using that exact setup in my Cadillac. You do have to run the factory volume up pretty high to get really loud, but there's no lack of output. The audio stays clean all the way to full volume on the factory head unit.
> With an analog input you can get the volume to come up faster, which makes it seem "livelier" and louder, but when you do that you will be inviting distortion at higher levels. The digital input will be cleaner every time.


JL Support told me the same thing about there being no digital input level adjustments, but your explanation of the analog vs digital volume is spot on. The system is clean to full volume and no engine noises at all. I think it's so clean that it is hard to judge how loud it really is. I am just going to keep playing with EQ, and levels until I get it perfect. 

Thanks to everyone for all the help.


----------



## Smash

Got word that my DRC-205 will be here Wednesday from Crutchfield. So looks like the have them in stock now.


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## ominous

Smash said:


> Got word that my DRC-205 will be here Wednesday from Crutchfield. So looks like the have them in stock now.


Finally. You never think you would miss something so inconsequential until you have to live without it.


----------



## qwank

Do these have internal fuses? I'm wiring mine up and just noticed there's no fuses on the amp itself.


----------



## What?

JL Amps have built in protection. Fuse is only needed to protect wire or vehicle.


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## msmith

How cool is this? 

https://www.eisa.eu/awards/jl-audio-vx8008i/


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## qwank

I finally finished installing everything in my truck and I must say that so far I am very impressed. I did a quick set up and tune and everything sounds excellent at flat eq levels. This is the first time I could ever say that for an aftermarket setup. 

I'll play around with it a little more tomorrow, after re reading this page I noticed I missed the input level adjustment. It's pretty damn loud at what ever the base setting is though. My factory head unit volume can't go past 1/2 way with out adding major noise and distortion to the system. 

I had to turn the output level on my 8'' midbass down to about -2 and I have my 3'' mids at +12 because they are 6 ohm speakers, but everything sounds good so far.


And has anyone gotten the DRC-205 yet? Looks like they are on back order until almost December. I have my interior out still and would really like to get one installed now. Does it use the regular JL phone cable? Maybe I can at least run the cable up to my dash for now until I can buy a DRC


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## ominous

qwank said:


> I finally finished installing everything in my truck and I must say that so far I am very impressed. I did a quick set up and tune and everything sounds excellent at flat eq levels. This is the first time I could ever say that for an aftermarket setup.
> 
> I'll play around with it a little more tomorrow, after re reading this page I noticed I missed the input level adjustment. It's pretty damn loud at what ever the base setting is though. My factory head unit volume can't go past 1/2 way with out adding major noise and distortion to the system.
> 
> I had to turn the output level on my 8'' midbass down to about -2 and I have my 3'' mids at +12 because they are 6 ohm speakers, but everything sounds good so far.
> 
> 
> And has anyone gotten the DRC-205 yet? Looks like they are on back order until almost December. I have my interior out still and would really like to get one installed now. Does it use the regular JL phone cable? Maybe I can at least run the cable up to my dash for now until I can buy a DRC


I got mine installed last weekend and love it. They got the brightness on the LED right. Glad I decided to wait 8 weeks instead of going with the DRC-200.

I don't know about the backorder, but I did get the last one (out of four) that my local shop ordered. I wouldn't imagine it would take that long to find one.


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## Smash

qwank said:


> And has anyone gotten the DRC-205 yet? Looks like they are on back order until almost December. I have my interior out still and would really like to get one installed now. Does it use the regular JL phone cable? Maybe I can at least run the cable up to my dash for now until I can buy a DRC


Got mine last week. Sonic looks like they have them https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_153663_JL-Audio-DRC-205.html


----------



## qwank

Smash said:


> Got mine last week. Sonic looks like they have them https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_153663_JL-Audio-DRC-205.html


Thanks!

I just ordered one from Sonic


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## qwank

So I have my DRC hooked up. I noticed The front master volume knob will go down to shut off the sound completely, but the rear bass knob won't completely shut off the sub. This is kind of annoying since I was planning on using the DRC as a master volume.


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## qwank

I finally got everything installed


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## mwhals

How wide is the DRC-205 knob? I want to see if it will fit where I want to install it before I buy it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ominous

mwhals said:


> How wide is the DRC-205 knob? I want to see if it will fit where I want to install it before I buy it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's slightly wider than the DRC-200, but it's all one piece. The 200's LED is separate, so you've got to consider a mounting location for that as well.


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## mwhals

ominous said:


> It's slightly wider than the DRC-200, but it's all one piece. The 200's LED is separate, so you've got to consider a mounting location for that as well.




Thanks. I don’t have any of the knobs so it doesn’t help much. Not sure how wide your panels are compared to mine.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ominous

What car is this?


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## mwhals

ominous said:


> What car is this?




2017 Honda Civic Touring.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## qwank

I noticed there's a teal color for the DRC light that perfectly matches my dash lighting. Score!


----------



## mwhals

qwank said:


> I noticed there's a teal color for the DRC light that perfectly matches my dash lighting. Score!




It will match my dash lighting too!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## GMCtrk

Any reviews on the 8 channel amp?

Since I can't stop tinkering with my setup I'm really tempted to purchase the VXi 8 channel. I absolutely loved the all electronic interface with the vxi and setting everything up from the driver seat versus a conventional amp. My only gripe with the VXi amps is the power output. Since my Focals are 2 ohm I could never bridge the 5 channel to get the full 200 watts per side. 

The 8 channel should be perfect to run an Audiofrog 3 way, GB60/25/10. 4 channels bridged on the GB60s for 200w x 2, and 75w on the mids and tweeters.


----------



## Smash

mwhals said:


> How wide is the DRC-205 knob? I want to see if it will fit where I want to install it before I buy it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Here you go. Each square is one inch.


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## mwhals

Smash said:


> Here you go. Each square is one inch.




Thank you so much!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ominous

GMCtrk said:


> Any reviews on the 8 channel amp?
> 
> Since I can't stop tinkering with my setup I'm really tempted to purchase the VXi 8 channel. I absolutely loved the all electronic interface with the vxi and setting everything up from the driver seat versus a conventional amp. My only gripe with the VXi amps is the power output. Since my Focals are 2 ohm I could never bridge the 5 channel to get the full 200 watts per side.
> 
> The 8 channel should be perfect to run an Audiofrog 3 way, GB60/25/10. 4 channels bridged on the GB60s for 200w x 2, and 75w on the mids and tweeters.


I've been running mine for over 2 months now and love it. It's driving my entire system (Hertz 2 way front components run active on channels 1 - 4, coax for rear fill on channels 5 & 6 and a JL 12" sub bridged on channel 7 & 8) and I haven't had a single issue. When I was trying to decide between the 5 and 8 channel VXi's, power to the sub was a concern of mine. I settled on the 8 channel and haven't been disappointed. The sub gets plenty loud if I need it (drown out the tweeters loud). And it's versatile. I can't imagine changing things up and not finding a use for it in any new build. 

I can't say enough for the way it sounds. The clarity and detail of this amp are phenomenal. I wouldn't be surprised if this is among the best sounding amps out there. 

Since you had the 5 channel there's not a lot to add. You're familiar with the DSP software and capabilities (to me, it's the most intuitive to use of any brand out there), the design, install considerations, etc...

If anything, it's got me thinking about going with a 3 way front. There's a dip between 800Hz-1000Hz that EQ can't correct, so adding a midrange in the A-pillars would allow me to cut off the mid bass before that becomes a problem. But probably won't be until after the end of the year due to budget constraints.


----------



## Kevin K

VXi series amps do sound good, very good. I've been impressed.


----------



## LumbermanSVO

GMCtrk said:


> Any reviews on the 8 channel amp?
> 
> Since I can't stop tinkering with my setup I'm really tempted to purchase the VXi 8 channel. I absolutely loved the all electronic interface with the vxi and setting everything up from the driver seat versus a conventional amp. My only gripe with the VXi amps is the power output. Since my Focals are 2 ohm I could never bridge the 5 channel to get the full 200 watts per side.
> 
> The 8 channel should be perfect to run an Audiofrog 3 way, GB60/25/10. 4 channels bridged on the GB60s for 200w x 2, and 75w on the mids and tweeters.


I have an 8 channel, it's running AF GB15's, Carbon ND-8's(mid/midbass), and ID8's(subs). It's getting a digital signal from an APL1 and I'm using the DRC for volume/bass level.

Overall, it works well, the small size is phenomenal, power is good, and the UI is really good. I would definitely buy it again!


----------



## mwhals

Smash said:


> Here you go. Each square is one inch.



Darn! Is is too big for the best place to put it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mwhals

I wonder how big the DRC-200 is since I do have a place for the LED.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mwhals

mwhals said:


> I wonder how big the DRC-200 is since I do have a place for the LED.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




It will work after seeing a YouTube video of it by Eric Cole showing it in his 2017 Civic.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## lbp775

Can someone tell me how long it takes to switch between profiles? I currently have a Helix DSP.2 that takes almost 10 seconds to change which is kind of annoying. The ARC PS8 that I had before only took 1 second.


----------



## ominous

lbp775 said:


> Can someone tell me how long it takes to switch between profiles? I currently have a Helix DSP.2 that takes almost 10 seconds to change which is kind of annoying. The ARC PS8 that I had before only took 1 second.


It's fast, almost instantaneous. Push the center knob inward and the preset changes before your finger is off the button.


----------



## lbp775

ominous said:


> It's fast, almost instantaneous. Push the center knob inward and the preset changes before your finger is off the button.


Good to know. I guess I know my next move. Thanks!


----------



## xlynoz

I'm assuming on the VX800 you can't go down to 2ohms on a bridged channel to get something higher than 200watts?


----------



## mwhals

xlynoz said:


> I'm assuming on the VX800 you can't go down to 2ohms on a bridged channel to get something higher than 200watts?




It is 200 watts at 4 ohm, so I don’t think it can go bridged to 2 ohms.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ominous

xlynoz said:


> I'm assuming on the VX800 you can't go down to 2ohms on a bridged channel to get something higher than 200watts?


No, it can't. 

Depending on the sub and your listening habits, it may be enough. I worried about whether I would need to add a second sub amp to my setup if the power wasn't enough, but it handles everything I need it to do with ease.


----------



## keep_hope_alive

https://youtu.be/lmHCnhsvfGo

Quick how-to using the VXi preout as factory radio EQ correction. 

In then out then back in.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## xlynoz

I'm considering using the VX1000/1 and VX800/8 but I'm concerned about the amount of power these will draw. I would be putting these in a 2018 Silverado with the stock alternator. For the folks using multiple VX amps, have you had to upgrade the alternator?


----------



## keep_hope_alive

xlynoz said:


> I'm considering using the VX1000/1 and VX800/8 but I'm concerned about the amount of power these will draw. I would be putting these in a 2018 Silverado with the stock alternator. For the folks using multiple VX amps, have you had to upgrade the alternator?


These are very efficient, especially when ran active. I put the same combo in a Scion tC on a stock alt. It replaced two 600/4 and a 1200/1, pictured below.









Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## xlynoz

keep_hope_alive said:


> These are very efficient, especially when ran active. I put the same combo in a Scion tC on a stock alt. It replaced two 600/4 and a 1200/1, pictured below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Based on the feedback I've gotten here and on the JL4LIFE Facebook page, it looks like this combo won't be an issue. 

Now the next question. Is the bluetooth module really worth it? I'm thinking it would be cool initially but the tweaking would be done with my laptop. Once it's set then I'll just use the DRC to switch between presets. The idea of the phone access is nice but it's not the full version. I'm going to play with it to see if it's something I would use but I'm thinking I would probably not use it after the initial "newness" wears off.


----------



## keep_hope_alive

xlynoz said:


> Based on the feedback I've gotten here and on the JL4LIFE Facebook page, it looks like this combo won't be an issue.
> 
> Now the next question. Is the bluetooth module really worth it? I'm thinking it would be cool initially but the tweaking would be done with my laptop. Once it's set then I'll just use the DRC to switch between presets. The idea of the phone access is nice but it's not the full version. I'm going to play with it to see if it's something I would use but I'm thinking I would probably not use it after the initial "newness" wears off.


I've enjoyed the quick access for tweaking. The DRC is a must, for sure, for access to presets and sub level. If you use the tuning for preout of the 800/8 you don't need to tune the 1000/1. In fact, you could use any sub amp of you wanted to use the pre out on the 800/8 for tuning the sub. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## tranv9565

The Bluetooth module to me is useless. I tried loading Tun Express on my iPhone and the app says the settings are to complicated to use with Tun Express... Even though Tun Express can only change gains and crossover points.

The Bluetooth module also doesn't allow you to connect to your laptop via windows app.

It believe it's only worthwhile if you plan on using Tun Mobile which is the iPad version.


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## mwhals

tranv9565 said:


> It believe it's only worthwhile if you plan on using Tun Mobile which is the iPad version.



True. It only works on a tablet or smartphone, but the smartphone version is limited compared to the tablet.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ominous

The smartphone version is worthless, IMO. Not that it doesn't provide some basic functions, it's just so basic that it's not useful. I have used the tablet and laptop versions (TuN Mobile and TuN) and both of those are excellent. 

BTW, the tablet version (TuN Mobile) will run on a Samsung Galaxy Note9, if you're in the market for a new phone.


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## xlynoz

ominous said:


> The smartphone version is worthless, IMO. Not that it doesn't provide some basic functions, it's just so basic that it's not useful. I have used the tablet and laptop versions (TuN Mobile and TuN) and both of those are excellent.
> 
> BTW, the tablet version (TuN Mobile) will run on a Samsung Galaxy Note9, if you're in the market for a new phone.



Funny you mention that. Have a Note 9 on order for work as we speak. I may have to reconsider getting the BT module.


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## tranv9565

Pm me if you're interested in one. I'll sell you mine.



xlynoz said:


> ominous said:
> 
> 
> 
> The smartphone version is worthless, IMO. Not that it doesn't provide some basic functions, it's just so basic that it's not useful. I have used the tablet and laptop versions (TuN Mobile and TuN) and both of those are excellent.
> 
> BTW, the tablet version (TuN Mobile) will run on a Samsung Galaxy Note9, if you're in the market for a new phone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Funny you mention that. Have a Note 9 on order for work as we speak. I may have to reconsider getting the BT module.
Click to expand...


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## vactor

ordered an 800/8i for a 1 amp system in my car, added the BT communication module and a DRC-205.


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## Stycker

Let us know how this works out. I would love to do this as well. This one amp can replace 4 boxes in my vehicle.


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## ominous

vactor said:


> ordered an 800/8i for a 1 amp system in my car, added the BT communication module and a DRC-205.


I've got the same setup (8 channel VXi amp, DRC and BT module) and it works very well. Using the VXi-BTC and my Samsung Note 9 to tune (via TuN Mobile) is great. The touchscreen interface makes inputting settings easier than using a keyboard.


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## vactor

holy cow ... in my hands this amp is crazy TINY! just ... HOW ?? magic?? wow!


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## Brian c

I’ve been running a xvi800/8 for a couple weeks now and really like this amp. For not having huge output numbers it definitely has no problem pushing my focals. Super clean amp. No noise anywhere in my system. Super compact. Definitely one of my favorite amps to date.


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## carlosg_313

Great amps for sure, and makes the install a lot cleaner with less wiring than having a amp and DSP separately


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## tranv9565

Does anyone know how to properly set rear fill using Tun?

I have the VX1000/5i strictly for rear fill and sub duty, I can't find a good tutorial or manual as to how to get it set correctly.


Thanks in advance! I can't believe something this small can pack so much of a punch.


----------



## BlueGhost

Does JL have any plans to make similar looking dumb (as in no DSP) amps?

I would love to do an active three way with the VX600/6i or 3 way plus rear fill with the /8i. I would like a matching sub amp, but don't feel the need to buy another DSP based amp if the 6 or 8 channel already includes DSP managed preouts.

Maybe a VX (no i) or a redesigned XDv3? At least for the 2 channel and mono amps. These could be add on amps that only come with a digital input.


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## msmith

tranv9565 said:


> Does anyone know how to properly set rear fill using Tun?
> 
> I have the VX1000/5i strictly for rear fill and sub duty, I can't find a good tutorial or manual as to how to get it set correctly.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance! I can't believe something this small can pack so much of a punch.


What do you want to do with the rear fill? Differential L / R with delay?

Also, what channels on your VX700/5i are connected to which speakers?


----------



## msmith

BlueGhost said:


> Does JL have any plans to make similar looking dumb (as in no DSP) amps?
> 
> I would love to do an active three way with the VX600/6i or 3 way plus rear fill with the /8i. I would like a matching sub amp, but don't feel the need to buy another DSP based amp if the 6 or 8 channel already includes DSP managed preouts.
> 
> Maybe a VX (no i) or a redesigned XDv3? At least for the 2 channel and mono amps. These could be add on amps that only come with a digital input.


Next year you can expect versions of the monoblock models with a stripped down feature set. Already in the works.


----------



## tranv9565

msmith said:


> What do you want to do with the rear fill? Differential L / R with delay?
> 
> Also, what channels on your VX700/5i are connected to which speakers?



Exactly, diff L/R w/ delay for rear fill.

Currently the settings are as follow:
Channel 1 Rear Door L
Channel 2 Rear Door R
Channel 3 Rear Shelf L
Channel 4 Rear Shelf R
Channel 5 Subwoofer


----------



## msmith

tranv9565 said:


> Exactly, diff L/R w/ delay for rear fill.
> 
> Currently the settings are as follow:
> Channel 1 Rear Door L
> Channel 2 Rear Door R
> Channel 3 Rear Shelf L
> Channel 4 Rear Shelf R
> Channel 5 Subwoofer


Sorry to answer your answer with another question, but what are the bandwidths of the Rear Door and Rear Shelf speakers? I'll work up a solution for you once I know that.


----------



## tranv9565

msmith said:


> Sorry to answer your answer with another question, but what are the bandwidths of the Rear Door and Rear Shelf speakers? I'll work up a solution for you once I know that.


Currently they are just high passed at 200hz. I turned the gains down quite a bit and using the DRC-205. I adjust the volume down just enough so that I don't "hear" it when my front stage is playing.

I just wanted to see if theres a proper way to run rear fill and how to set it with the software to try out.


----------



## gijoe

tranv9565 said:


> Currently they are just high passed at 200hz. I turned the gains down quite a bit and using the DRC-205. I adjust the volume down just enough so that I don't "hear" it when my front stage is playing.
> 
> I just wanted to see if theres a proper way to run rear fill and how to set it with the software to try out.


I'm almost certain that you cannot do "proper" rear fill with those amps. Differential rear fill requires an L-R signal, a bandpass crossover, heavy attenuation, and lots of delay. I'm not 100%, but I don't think the software can do the L-R part, and I'm not sure you have enough delay to work with. In your case, you'd need all of that for the rear doors AND rear shelf, in my opinion that's just way too many speakers in the rear to work well without some very serious processing (much more than you have). And, if I'm being honest, I don't like rear fill even when done "properly" but I get why so many people do.


----------



## tranv9565

gijoe said:


> I'm almost certain that you cannot do "proper" rear fill with those amps. Differential rear fill requires an L-R signal, a bandpass crossover, heavy attenuation, and lots of delay. I'm not 100%, but I don't think the software can do the L-R part, and I'm not sure you have enough delay to work with. In your case, you'd need all of that for the rear doors AND rear shelf, in my opinion that's just way too many speakers in the rear to work well without some very serious processing (much more than you have). And, if I'm being honest, I don't like rear fill even when done "properly" but I get why so many people do.


I just happen to read somewhere that the software on the JL Amps are powerful enough w/ enough delay to properly set the rear fill. 

Only reason I have it is because I have kids back there, otherwise I'd ditch them all together!


----------



## gijoe

tranv9565 said:


> I just happen to read somewhere that the software on the JL Amps are powerful enough w/ enough delay to properly set the rear fill.
> 
> Only reason I have it is because I have kids back there, otherwise I'd ditch them all together!


Someone will have to do the research, but I don't believe you can do the differential (L-R) part of the rear fill. And again, you'll need different processing (delay and attenuation) for the rear doors and rear deck, why not just use one or the other? If the doors and deck are covering the same frequency range then having both is doing more harm than good. 

The kids can hear the front speakers just fine


----------



## msmith

gijoe said:


> I'm almost certain that you cannot do "proper" rear fill with those amps. Differential rear fill requires an L-R signal, a bandpass crossover, heavy attenuation, and lots of delay. I'm not 100%, but I don't think the software can do the L-R part, and I'm not sure you have enough delay to work with. In your case, you'd need all of that for the rear doors AND rear shelf, in my opinion that's just way too many speakers in the rear to work well without some very serious processing (much more than you have). And, if I'm being honest, I don't like rear fill even when done "properly" but I get why so many people do.


Yes, VXi can do L-R and R-L in the input mixer. Delay is up to 22 ms, which is enough to create a good effect.


----------



## gijoe

msmith said:


> Yes, VXi can do L-R and R-L in the input mixer. Delay is up to 22 ms, which is enough to create a good effect.


That's good to know, thanks. 

I still wouldn't recommend trying to make this work with both door and rear shelf speakers.


----------



## msmith

tranv9565 said:


> I just happen to read somewhere that the software on the JL Amps are powerful enough w/ enough delay to properly set the rear fill.
> 
> Only reason I have it is because I have kids back there, otherwise I'd ditch them all together!


Fortunately you have an input mixer, a bandpass filter and up to 20.2 ms of delay in each channel, so you can do a pretty nice rear fill setup.

First, select the Setup Tab where you will connect both left and right inputs to EQ 1, 2, 3 and 4 in the Input Router. Both L and R inputs to each one.

EQ 1 will go to the Left Rear Door
EQ 2 will go to the Right Rear Door
EQ 3 will go to the Left Rear Deck
EQ 4 will go to the Right Rear Deck 

Then, using the input mixer controls, you will invert the polarity of the input channel opposite the side that the speaker is on (invert the right input for the left speaker channels (EQ 1 and 3), invert the left input for the right speaker channels (EQ 2 and 4). The input mixer will automatically attenuate each input by -6dB so that nothing clips. If you want to adjust the mix further you can play with the relative attenuation of the inputs, but I would leave it in the default mode to start.

Once that is routed, connect the amp outputs to the EQ's as follows: EQ 1 > Left Rear Door, EQ 2 > Right Rear Door, EQ 3 > Left Rear Deck, EQ4 > Right Rear Deck. This will give you individual EQ's for each speaker.

Then, go to the Tune Tab 

Set your high-pass crossover frequency (100 Hz at 24dB/oct. is where I would start).

Then select a low-pass crossover frequency (3 kHz @ 12 dB/oct. seems to work well in this application)

You have up to 20.2 ms of delay per channel... start around 15 ms, it should not be necessary to set distances like you do with your front speakers. 

You also will need to attenuate the level of the rear speakers using the Output Level Trim. If that's not enough attenuation, you can go back to the Setup Tab and attenuate the MIXER LEVEL Trim control up to 12 dB further.

When done right, the effect can be very pleasing in the front of the car and also improves the sound in the rear seat. 

If you need screen shots, PM me an email address and I'll send you some.

Hope that helps. Have fun.

Manville Smith
JL Audio, Inc.


----------



## msmith

gijoe said:


> That's good to know, thanks.
> 
> I still wouldn't recommend trying to make this work with both door and rear shelf speakers.


In my car I only have the rear door speakers doing it. Have not tried with additional speakers in the rear deck, but I don't think it would screw things up. The heavy delay "decouples" the sound from the main soundstage speakers, so it would still retain its ambient qualities without creating issues. But there's only one way to find out! 

Also, I mistyped... it's 20.2 ms of delay per channel, not 22 ms


----------



## tranv9565

Thanks for the detailed informarion! Will give it a try and report back when done




msmith said:


> tranv9565 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I just happen to read somewhere that the software on the JL Amps are powerful enough w/ enough delay to properly set the rear fill.
> 
> Only reason I have it is because I have kids back there, otherwise I'd ditch them all together!
> 
> 
> 
> Fortunately you have an input mixer, a bandpass filter and up to 20.2 ms of delay in each channel, so you can do a pretty nice rear fill setup.
> 
> First, select the Setup Tab where you will connect both left and right inputs to EQ 1, 2, 3 and 4 in the Input Router. Both L and R inputs to each one.
> 
> EQ 1 will go to the Left Rear Door
> EQ 2 will go to the Right Rear Door
> EQ 3 will go to the Left Rear Deck
> EQ 4 will go to the Right Rear Deck
> 
> Then, using the input mixer controls, you will invert the polarity of the input channel opposite the side that the speaker is on (invert the right input for the left speaker channels (EQ 1 and 3), invert the left input for the right speaker channels (EQ 2 and 4). The input mixer will automatically attenuate each input by -6dB so that nothing clips. If you want to adjust the mix further you can play with the relative attenuation of the inputs, but I would leave it in the default mode to start.
> 
> Once that is routed, connect the amp outputs to the EQ's as follows: EQ 1 > Left Rear Door, EQ 2 > Right Rear Door, EQ 3 > Left Rear Deck, EQ4 > Right Rear Deck. This will give you individual EQ's for each speaker.
> 
> Then, go to the Tune Tab
> 
> Set your high-pass crossover frequency (100 Hz at 24dB/oct. is where I would start).
> 
> Then select a low-pass crossover frequency (3 kHz @ 12 dB/oct. seems to work well in this application)
> 
> You have up to 20.2 ms of delay per channel... start around 15 ms, it should not be necessary to set distances like you do with your front speakers.
> 
> You also will need to attenuate the level of the rear speakers using the Output Level Trim. If that's not enough attenuation, you can go back to the Setup Tab and attenuate the MIXER LEVEL Trim control up to 12 dB further.
> 
> When done right, the effect can be very pleasing in the front of the car and also improves the sound in the rear seat.
> 
> If you need screen shots, PM me an email address and I'll send you some.
> 
> Hope that helps. Have fun.
> 
> Manville Smith
> JL Audio, Inc.
Click to expand...


----------



## ominous

Any chance we could get a short video explaining this? I've got the VX800/8i. I tried asking your support team for more info on the input mixer to determine if this was possible. They were nice, but didn't know much about it: 

"We do not have any detailed instructions for the Mixer Path section of the software, this is usually configured automatically and require no changes."


----------



## ominous

msmith said:


> Next year you can expect versions of the monoblock models with a stripped down feature set. Already in the works.


Good to hear. This way I won't have to go with mismatched amps.


----------



## ominous

msmith said:


> Fortunately you have an input mixer, a bandpass filter and up to 20.2 ms of delay in each channel, so you can do a pretty nice rear fill setup.
> 
> First, select the Setup Tab where you will connect both left and right inputs to EQ 1, 2, 3 and 4 in the Input Router. Both L and R inputs to each one.
> 
> EQ 1 will go to the Left Rear Door
> EQ 2 will go to the Right Rear Door
> EQ 3 will go to the Left Rear Deck
> EQ 4 will go to the Right Rear Deck
> 
> Then, using the input mixer controls, you will invert the polarity of the input channel opposite the side that the speaker is on (invert the right input for the left speaker channels (EQ 1 and 3), invert the left input for the right speaker channels (EQ 2 and 4). The input mixer will automatically attenuate each input by -6dB so that nothing clips. If you want to adjust the mix further you can play with the relative attenuation of the inputs, but I would leave it in the default mode to start.
> 
> Once that is routed, connect the amp outputs to the EQ's as follows: EQ 1 > Left Rear Door, EQ 2 > Right Rear Door, EQ 3 > Left Rear Deck, EQ4 > Right Rear Deck. This will give you individual EQ's for each speaker.
> 
> Then, go to the Tune Tab
> 
> Set your high-pass crossover frequency (100 Hz at 24dB/oct. is where I would start).
> 
> Then select a low-pass crossover frequency (3 kHz @ 12 dB/oct. seems to work well in this application)
> 
> You have up to 20.2 ms of delay per channel... start around 15 ms, it should not be necessary to set distances like you do with your front speakers.
> 
> You also will need to attenuate the level of the rear speakers using the Output Level Trim. If that's not enough attenuation, you can go back to the Setup Tab and attenuate the MIXER LEVEL Trim control up to 12 dB further.
> 
> When done right, the effect can be very pleasing in the front of the car and also improves the sound in the rear seat.
> 
> If you need screen shots, PM me an email address and I'll send you some.
> 
> Hope that helps. Have fun.
> 
> Manville Smith
> JL Audio, Inc.


I'm testing this out today and just want to confirm I've done it right. Is this screenshot correct:


----------



## msmith

ominous said:


> I'm testing this out today and just want to confirm I've done it right. Is this screenshot correct:


Yes, that looks correct.


----------



## ominous

msmith said:


> Yes, that looks correct.


Thanks, Manville. 

This info was very helpful. It would be nice if it was located on the JL Audio website so other people might benefit.


----------



## Libertyguy20

Do these amps have any kind of automatic calibration option via a mic? 

Also, I am not very experienced with a parametric EQ but very familiar with a regular EQ. Is the a specific Q figure or number I could use across the board that would be similar to a standard EQ's Q? Not crazy about just having 10 bands per speaker (former Audison Bit10 user with 31 bands per channel), but it is time to learn it being in denial for a few systems


----------



## ominous

Libertyguy20 said:


> Do these amps have any kind of automatic calibration option via a mic?
> 
> Also, I am not very experienced with a parametric EQ but very familiar with a regular EQ. Is the a specific Q figure or number I could use across the board that would be similar to a standard EQ's Q? Not crazy about just having 10 bands per speaker (former Audison Bit10 user with 31 bands per channel), but it is time to learn it being in denial for a few systems


No, there is no auto-EQ function. 

This was my first go at a DSP and I found 10 bands of parametric EQ per channel to be more than enough. Manville has some helpful videos out there about the difference between graphic and parametric and how to use them. 

And while the VXi doesn't offer an auto-EQ, you can use the auto-EQ function in REW. It will do all of the calculations for you.


----------



## Libertyguy20

I have a new Galaxy note 9 in it says my device is incompatible with Tun mobile... I can only get Express. a few of you had indicated you were waiting on this phone to run the mobile app version but it doesn't appear to work at the moment. That my kill my purchase of this amp. 
the ability to tune via Bluetooth From a cell phone is light years ahead of when I used to have to pull out a small laptop. Although a small tablet still may be an option but it's an additional expense and this Galaxy not 9 has a huge screen already.


----------



## xlynoz

Libertyguy20 said:


> I have a new Galaxy note 9 in it says my device is incompatible with Tun mobile... I can only get Express. a few of you had indicated you were waiting on this phone to run the mobile app version but it doesn't appear to work at the moment. That my kill my purchase of this amp.
> the ability to tune via Bluetooth From a cell phone is light years ahead of when I used to have to pull out a small laptop. Although a small tablet still may be an option but it's an additional expense and this Galaxy not 9 has a huge screen already.


Running the TuN Mobile version on my Note 9 without issue.


----------



## Libertyguy20

That is so odd when I go to the app store it tells me it's incompatible with my device... Did you do anything special or different to download it?


----------



## ominous

Libertyguy20 said:


> That is so odd when I go to the app store it tells me it's incompatible with my device... Did you do anything special or different to download it?


It's working fine for me. I just went to the Play store, searched TuN Mobile and downloaded the program. No issues at all. Last used it yesterday.


----------



## xlynoz

Libertyguy20 said:


> That is so odd when I go to the app store it tells me it's incompatible with my device... Did you do anything special or different to download it?



Nope, in fact I had the Express version installed when I installed the Mobile version.

I can say this. Do what you can to get it to work. I didn't think I would use the BT module much so when I bought the amps I didn't get the BT module. Heck, I'm all over that thing especially as I'm still dialing in the system and probably will be for the next month or so while the speakers break in. I'm glad I got it. I'm sure the usage will go down once I have everything dialed but for now it's very handy.


----------



## xlynoz

So question for those using the digital input on these. I had always heard that using digital inputs vs analog, digital will always be a little lower in volume. Is that your experience with these amps? So far that has been my experience. Right after I first got to listen to the amps in the truck, I thought they sounded low. They've gotten a little better now that I have an initial tune on the system. However, my HD 900/5 on 8ohm raw drivers is definitely louder than my VX 800/8 and 1000/1. I never did try the analog input on them. I probably will but I have to take apart the dash and center console for that, so that will wait until after the holidays. I was so close in running RCAs just to have while I was doing the install. Wish I would have. While the system gets loud, on some older recordings that don't have a lot of gain on them, you can max out the volume and still be desiring more. For newer stuff, it definitely gets loud. 

I will say with digital inputs, the system is completely silent. No noise at full volume on a "zero data" track.


----------



## tranv9565

I initially used digital inputs which worked great but for whatever reason I have having issues with Bluetooth phone in my car causing a weird feedback when using digital.

I switched to RCA inputs and everything is definitely louder, but I also never had issues with loudness when using digital input.


----------



## lbp775

Is there no delay adjustments for the remote wire? I'm getting a nasty turn on thump from the subwoofer amp through the RCA preouts.


----------



## msmith

lbp775 said:


> Is there no delay adjustments for the remote wire? I'm getting a nasty turn on thump from the subwoofer amp through the RCA preouts.


If you go to the Project Settings panel (click the little wrench icon in TuN), you will se a setting for Remote Output Delay. This delays the turn on output of the amplifier.


----------



## lbp775

msmith said:


> If you go to the Project Settings panel (click the little wrench icon in TuN), you will se a setting for Remote Output Delay. This delays the turn on output of the amplifier.


I was digging around in the wrong place. Thank you much!


----------



## vactor

question:
can i plug 2 sources into the inputs of a vxi amplifier, e.g. headunit output to channels 1/2 input on amp, and for example a 3.5mm to rca to inputs 3/4 on the amp, and switch between the inputs using a DRC 205 knob?


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## tranv9565

vactor said:


> question:
> can i plug 2 sources into the inputs of a vxi amplifier, e.g. headunit output to channels 1/2 input on amp, and for example a 3.5mm to rca to inputs 3/4 on the amp, and switch between the inputs using a DRC 205 knob?


I dont see why you wouldn't be able to. You would just have the set it up appropriately via your Presets.

Preset 1 can have channels 1 and 2 activated and route all the outputs to the appropriate channels

Preset 2 can have channels 3 and 4 as your inputs and route all the outputs


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## ominous

vactor said:


> question:
> can i plug 2 sources into the inputs of a vxi amplifier, e.g. headunit output to channels 1/2 input on amp, and for example a 3.5mm to rca to inputs 3/4 on the amp, and switch between the inputs using a DRC 205 knob?


Yes, you can. The input router allows you to route any input channels to any output channels. I've got the 8 channel and I can route inputs 1 & 2 to all 8 outputs and make that preset #1. Then I can take inputs 3 & 4 and route to all 8 outputs on preset 2, inputs 5 & 6 to all 8 outputs on preset 3, and so on. You have 6 presets, so theoretically you can have 6 completely different setups. This thing is insanely flexible.


----------



## Asdcreation

The thing with drc 205 is 6 different sound presents with different lights which I really like ,i have standard profile with all speakers on,2 with rear roof speaker off,3rd with front stage only,4th & 5th with sound delay for driver & front passenger etc ,so there's lot of stuff you can do with vxi amps + drc 205 combo


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## vactor

that is what i thought. thanks for the confirmation. i am glad i made the decision to use the vxi amp in my system!


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## vactor

getting a vx amp installed right now. the AMP is small, but the connectors are simply idiotic. they make the amp 50% wider for install purposes for no reason at all. they are just plain a BAD design considering the amp is supposed to be a small footprint. at least make some right angle connectors or something. i'd rather use RA ends on the cables and then i could get those 2 inches back that the connectors take up. really adding some expensive and time consuming issues to my underseat install. sadly.


----------



## MrGreen83

Lmao I do agree with the connectors being huge. Remind me of the old Desktop monitor connectors 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ominous

It wasn't an issue in my install, but I could see how it might be an issue on some installs. Luckily the space under my seat was large enough to accommodate my VX800/8i. The amp, including connectors, has more of a square footprint where as my old RD900/5 was more rectangular. That allowed it to fit under the front seat where the RD (due to it's extra width) wouldn't. 


And yeah, the input harness looks like the VGA connector on my old Gateway monitor.


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## bbfoto

vactor said:


> getting a vx amp installed right now. the AMP is small, but *the connectors are simply idiotic. they make the amp 50% wider for install purposes for no reason at all. they are just plain a BAD design considering the amp is supposed to be a small footprint.* at least make some right angle connectors or something. i'd rather use RA ends on the cables and then i could get those 2 inches back that the connectors take up. really adding some expensive and time consuming issues to my underseat install. sadly.


Unfortunately, I have to 100% agree regarding those connectors. When I first saw pictures of the amps with the connectors included, I was like, "WTF JL???" haha. 

They are really great amps, but the extra space needed for those overly large connectors is honestly what determined that they would definitely not fit in one of my installs where I was really interested in using them. 

That, and the fact that they did not have a built-in "stacking" feature similar to the 2nd Gen Alpine PDX amps, which IMO was a brilliant design decision by Alpine.

Each VXi amp is also ~1/8" thicker than the PDX amps, so if I wanted to manually "stack" a pair of them, they would be at least 1/4" taller overall. That little bit was also enough to not allow them to fit the height restrictions in my particular install. 

And in my particular case, I already had a spot that would perfectly fit my existing Helix DSP Pro separately, so the built-in DSP functionality of the VXi amps wasn't a huge factor in my decision to try them, though I really did want to take advantage of it. But built-in DSP or not, the VXi amp combination that I needed would simply not fit in the allowed space.

In one way I can understand JL's reasoning for wanting to use a proven, widely available, off-the-shelf, and therefore very inexpensive DB-25 type computer connector. But when one of the primary goals (I think?) of these types of amplifiers is to have the absolute smallest form factor possible which provides the greatest install flexibility in the widest variety of vehicles, I just don't get it. 

But if you have the space for them to fit, I don't think that anyone would be disappointed in their performance.


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## vactor

vactor said:


> getting a vx amp installed right now. the AMP is small, but the connectors are simply idiotic. they make the amp 50% wider for install purposes for no reason at all. they are just plain a BAD design considering the amp is supposed to be a small footprint. at least make some right angle connectors or something. i'd rather use RA ends on the cables and then i could get those 2 inches back that the connectors take up. really adding some expensive and time consuming issues to my underseat install. sadly.


pic that shows the unnecessarily HUGE connectors ...


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## Pb82 Ronin

I agree...90 degree connectors could make for a much cleaner install. Are you listening JL?


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## vactor

vactor said:


> pic that shows the unnecessarily HUGE connectors ...


come on manville, making new "slimmer" connectors that take advantage of the narrow amp design cannot be _that_ hard. i mean, look at how good the old PPI art series connector were, or alpine pdx etc. so close, yet so far. needless to say, it will fit, barely, in my install, but it sure made it more time consuming and expensive for no good reason really.


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## bbfoto

vactor said:


> come on manville, making new "slimmer" connectors that take advantage of the narrow amp design cannot be _that_ hard. i mean, *look at how good the old PPI art series connector were, or alpine pdx etc*. so close, yet so far. needless to say, it will fit, barely, in my install, but it sure made it more time consuming and expensive for no good reason really.


Well, I'm glad that you were at least able to fit the amp in your install.  You have to admit that it is still a fair amount of good, clean power+channels for its overall size. And with the JL name on it, you can at least expect a certain level of quality and support.

As much as I'd like to see a new connector design as well, I seriously doubt that JL will change these anytime soon. I'd imagine that they already have way too much time & money tied up in the design, tooling, and pre-purchased parts.

Realistically, I think that we'll have to wait for the 2nd Generation of VXi models for any major changes, but I imagine that could be quite some time.

These are definitely good amps as they stand, but IMPO, a few somewhat simple changes could make them really GREAT!


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## vactor

bbfoto said:


> Well, I'm glad that you were at least able to fit the amp in your install.  You have to admit that it is still a fair amount of good, clean power+channels for its overall size. And with the JL name on it, you can at least expect a certain level of quality and support.
> 
> As much as I'd like to see a new connector design as well, I seriously doubt that JL will change these anytime soon. I'd imagine that they already have way too much time & money tied up in the design, tooling, and pre-purchased parts.
> 
> Realistically, I think that we'll have to wait for the 2nd Generation of VXi models for any major changes, but I imagine that could be quite some time.
> 
> These are definitely good amps as they stand, but IMPO, a few somewhat simple changes could make them really GREAT!


yeah, i completely agree that JL makes amazing stuff and that these amps will deliver. it's why i am paying an install premium to get it to fit. BUT, it just seems like such an incredible oversight considering how well thought out JL products have ALL been over the years! just one of those "wtf were they thinking" moments. happens to everyone, and it does not make this really amazing amplifier any less so, it just adds a lever of "wtf" frustration for pretty much no reason at all. still cannot believe the power / size ration on the vxi amps, AND that they come packed with the DSP which is in itself pretty damn amazing. next ones should have the BT module built in and connectors that take advantage of the small size.


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## bbfoto

I actually think that having the BT Module separate is a good idea so that it can be placed somewhere in the vehicle where it will have the best signal & reception. The FCC has purposely limited the Bluetooth transceiver power spec to a very low value in order to limit cross-interference with other devices, so its power and reception distance are limited, especially in a space with lots of metal and/or other barriers.

I just wish that the VXi BT module also supported _BT Music Streaming_ directly to the amplifier using at least BT v4.2 with Apt-X (or Apt-X HD & LDAC at this point) instead of just wireless amp & dsp adjustment. But the interface they chose for the BT functionality will not support the bandwidth that's required for streaming audio.

You need to buy a completely seperate JL or generic BT receiver for music streaming. This means more wires & complexity + having to always switch between two different BT profiles or connections for either tuning or music playback.


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## vactor

bbfoto said:


> I actually think that having the BT Module separate is a good idea so that it can be placed somewhere in the vehicle where it will have the best signal & reception. The FCC has purposely limited the Bluetooth transceiver power spec to a very low value in order to limit cross-interference with other devices, so its power and reception distance are limited, especially in a space with lots of metal and/or other barriers.
> 
> I just wish that the VXi BT module also supported _BT Music Streaming_ directly to the amplifier using at least BT v4.2 with Apt-X (or Apt-X HD & LDAC at this point) instead of just wireless amp & dsp adjustment. But the interface they chose for the BT functionality will not support the bandwidth that's required for streaming audio.
> 
> You need to buy a completely seperate JL or generic BT receiver for music streaming. This means more wires & complexity + having to always switch between two different BT profiles or connections for either tuning or music playback.


agreed. i ended up getting the JL BT streaming module as well. since i did not change my factory headunit, i am keeping it and pretty much totally bypassing it using a BT module for streaming audio and then an aux-in to a line driver for added source input, and using the DRC to just switch rca inputs at the amp.


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## flgfish

I'm deciding on an amp for a new setup & this one is on the short list. Thanks to everyone for the reviews & thoughts.


----------



## Rseubanks

Does anyone know if you use a VXi amp on a 17 ford raptor head unit with the Sony speakers if you still need a fix 82 or fix 86?


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## flgfish

vactor said:


> pic that shows the unnecessarily HUGE connectors ...


This looks like the space under the passenger seat in a Porsche. I specifically went with a Helix instead of the JL for this reason alone. The JL had some flexibility I wanted, but the connectors and size really put me off.

Here's a pic from a 991 911 with the vx800/8i installed...


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## vactor

flgfish said:


> This looks like the space under the passenger seat in a Porsche. I specifically went with a Helix instead of the JL for this reason alone. The JL had some flexibility I wanted, but the connectors and size really put me off.
> 
> Here's a pic from a 991 911 with the vx800/8i installed...


yeah, it's in a boxster in my pic. similar but not exactly the same space under the seat. although, i just got a 991 as well so it might fit a bit better under there.


----------



## mattkim1337

Does anyone know if it's possible to import a generic EQ text file from REW into the Tun software?


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## ominous

mattkim1337 said:


> Does anyone know if it's possible to import a generic EQ text file from REW into the Tun software?


Not that I am aware. I'd love it if that were the case.


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## WilliamS

vactor said:


> pic that shows the unnecessarily HUGE connectors ...


Well that sucks, I was looking at these for the last few days for an all in one that isnt budget crushing, then seeing these connectors I will not be able to hide those monsters on my wall.


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## Pb82 Ronin

I ran into a snafu with mine today...apparently, the AMP needs to be "updated." Brought my install to a complete stop. Not happy.


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## msmith

Pb82 Ronin said:


> I ran into a snafu with mine today...apparently, the AMP needs to be "updated." Brought my install to a complete stop. Not happy.


The firmware update can be done through the TuN software. It's pretty straightforward. If you are having difficulty, please contact our tech support team for assistance [email protected]


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## msmith

ominous said:


> Not that I am aware. I'd love it if that were the case.


Unfortunately that is not supported. If you open the TuN file in a text editor, you may be able to to do some cut and pasting, but it's probably easier to just key in the EQ settings in the TuN software.


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## msmith

Rseubanks said:


> Does anyone know if you use a VXi amp on a 17 ford raptor head unit with the Sony speakers if you still need a fix 82 or fix 86?


Yes, you could use a FiX in that vehicle, but there are a number of direct digital interfaces for that vehicle that would be a better choice than FiX for about the same money. PAC AmpPro, for one.


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## msmith

Thanks for all the feedback on the VXi connectors. I understand some of the concerns expressed. We had to deal with a lot of connection density on a fairly small edge of the amplifier. We could have made the chassis bigger, or put an overhang on it to "hide" the connections but this would not make the whole package any smaller. 

One tip I can offer if you are in very tight spaces is to carefully remove the nylon braided jacket on the various harnesses. This will give you more wire flexibility and allow you to make tighter turns.


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## msmith

bbfoto said:


> I actually think that having the BT Module separate is a good idea so that it can be placed somewhere in the vehicle where it will have the best signal & reception. The FCC has purposely limited the Bluetooth transceiver power spec to a very low value in order to limit cross-interference with other devices, so its power and reception distance are limited, especially in a space with lots of metal and/or other barriers.
> 
> I just wish that the VXi BT module also supported _BT Music Streaming_ directly to the amplifier using at least BT v4.2 with Apt-X (or Apt-X HD & LDAC at this point) instead of just wireless amp & dsp adjustment. But the interface they chose for the BT functionality will not support the bandwidth that's required for streaming audio.
> 
> You need to buy a completely seperate JL or generic BT receiver for music streaming. This means more wires & complexity + having to always switch between two different BT profiles or connections for either tuning or music playback.


Placing a BT radio inside a powerful Class D amplifier chassis is not a recipe for good BT performance. It's much better to get the BT radio away from the amp.

The BTC accessory is for control and connection only. There are many other ways to get BT streaming audio into the system. From a simple BT receiver like the MBT-RX ($40.00 with AptX) to those that are built into other source units. We expect that most people will run a source unit with their VXi amp, not just a BT receiver.


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## ominous

msmith said:


> Unfortunately that is not supported. If you open the TuN file in a text editor, you may be able to to do some cut and pasting, but it's probably easier to just key in the EQ settings in the TuN software.


It's not a big deal. Besides, I've gotten pretty proficient using Tun Mobile on a touchscreen. I find it's easier to use on my phone than using the keyboard on my laptop.


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## TheLex

Rseubanks said:


> Does anyone know if you use a VXi amp on a 17 ford raptor head unit with the Sony speakers if you still need a fix 82 or fix 86?


I think what you need is the PAC AmpPro. Feed the signal from the head unit into the AmpPro. Then the AmpPro can be fed into the JL Vxi amp where you can use the TUN software built into the amp to perform the DSP functions. 

Can someone chime in on whether I’ve got that right?


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## Pb82 Ronin

Another recommendation JL...the main RCA bundle all terminate in the same place (same length). This make a HUGE bulge of wires/RCAs that make packaging difficult. If you could stagger the lengths, it would make the install much "narrower" in the overall wire plan. You're welcome for some free intellectual property. If you wanted to throw in a 600/1 VXi as compensation, I wouldn't complain. LOL!


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## les_garten

vactor said:


> getting a vx amp installed right now. the AMP is small, but the connectors are simply idiotic. they make the amp 50% wider for install purposes for no reason at all. they are just plain a BAD design considering the amp is supposed to be a small footprint. at least make some right angle connectors or something. i'd rather use RA ends on the cables and then i could get those 2 inches back that the connectors take up. really adding some expensive and time consuming issues to my underseat install. sadly.


It does seem like a good idea to make 2 other orientations for these adapters as an option.


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## les_garten

I also am having issues with the Tun mobile software install on my Note 9 as well as my Galaxy Note tablet.

The play store says it is incompatible with all my devices. For that reason it does not show up as an option to install on my Note 9


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## ominous

When originally released, TuN Mobile was made available (accidentally or otherwise) to smartphones as well as tablets. I'm using it my Note9 and love it. But at some point they changed it to allow installation on tablets only, so smartphone users are now limited to TuN Express. Unfortunately, (sorry, Manville) its only useful for quick, initial setup (the type that you might do when you first install the amp). If you want to do a full tune or modify an existing one, it won't work.

I really think JL should make it a priority to get TuN Mobile optimized and released for smartphones. From what I heard the issue was the size of the display (the hardware clearly seems capable as I've never encountered an issue on my Note9). I can see how it might benefit from making parts of the user interface a bit more legible on the limited amount of real estate you get on a phone's screen (I missed the buttons to mute individual channels the first time I used it), but it's not too far off as it currently exists. It would also put JL on par with other manufacturers which offer smartphone control of their DSP products. Hopefully that's in the works for the next version of TuN.


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## les_garten

I was able to get it installed on my Note 9.

I did a Google search for "tun mobile apk"

This took me to apkpure. It was there and I was able to kludge around till I got it installed and it works fine.

It should be noted that this is outside the Play Store and does not have the guarantee of security that the Play Store has.


----------



## lv_v

I have 3 VXi amps, two for highs and one for subs. Do I need a new project for each amp? There's nothing in any of the documentation that I've found that addresses this. Odd to say the least.

I don't have them installed yet, just trying to set everything up via the simulation mode so I'm ready to go when they're installed.

FYI I'm going to be running the optical through the hub.


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## bbfoto

lv_v said:


> I have 3 VXi amps, two for highs and one for subs. Do I need a new project for each amp? There's nothing in any of the documentation that I've found that addresses this. Odd to say the least.
> 
> I don't have them installed yet, just trying to set everything up via the simulation mode so I'm ready to go when they're installed.
> 
> FYI I'm going to be running the optical through the hub.


Not sure about needing to set up individual "projects" for each amp/DSP, but I think when using the "Hub" it lets you dynamically switch between the different amps/DSPs to tune them...I believe that Manville chimed-in regarding this earlier in the thread.

ErinH would probably know, but just contact JL at [email protected]


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## Pb82 Ronin

lv_v said:


> I have 3 VXi amps, two for highs and one for subs. Do I need a new project for each amp? There's nothing in any of the documentation that I've found that addresses this. Odd to say the least.
> 
> I don't have them installed yet, just trying to set everything up via the simulation mode so I'm ready to go when they're installed.
> 
> FYI I'm going to be running the optical through the hub.


No you don't. You will only need one program. You just have to "daisy chain" the amps together. Pick the one amp that will be your "main amp" and the DSP will control all of them at the same time.


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## lv_v

Pb82 Ronin said:


> No you don't. You will only need one program. You just have to "daisy chain" the amps together. Pick the one amp that will be your "main amp" and the DSP will control all of them at the same time.


But it appears this is not possible in the standalone Tun 3.0 software prior to connecting to the finished install? I thought the point of the simulation mode was to be able to setup xovers, EQ, etc in the house/shop and then upload it to the amps once you plug into the vehicle.

There is very little literature on how it works, unfortunately. But looking forward to getting them installed and tweaking with the Tun software soon!


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## Pb82 Ronin

What is your setup? What amps and speaker channels are you trying to run? I'll walk you through it.


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## lv_v

Pb82 Ronin said:


> What is your setup? What amps and speaker channels are you trying to run? I'll walk you through it.


Thanks, really appreciate it:

Two VX1000/5i for the front stage and rear doors:
- HAT X1 tweeters on 2 channels
- HAT X3 tweeters on 4 channels bridged
- HAT L8SE on each 5i sub channel
- HAT Imagine 6.5" coaxials on 2 channels
(is it better SOP to use one amp per side of the car? or easier to tune to keep like-speakers in pairs on an amp?)

+ VX1000/1i with two SI mkV subs


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## lv_v

By the way, I am able to set each amp up individually (input routing, crossovers, etc) no problem via Tun on my Windows 10 laptop, but getting three different amps into a single project is where I'm hitting the snag. Right now I have a different project file for each amp and I don't understand how that's going to translate to a "seamless" transition when my install is complete (i.e. single window Tun control of all 3 amps crossovers and EQ).


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## Pb82 Ronin

So the key to daisy chaining is pick the amp that you're going to run as your "primary" amp. Then plug the RCA output from the primary amp into the input for the 2nd amp in line. Then do the same for the mono. It's okay to have a full signal RCA going into your mono because you can program the parameters/freq into your TuN file. One DSP will run all of them. Does that make sense?

EDIT: So you're using 11 channels then? On how many speakers?


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## voodoojfb

Can the vx800/8i be set up to run with only 4 of the channels bridged? For example, say i wanted to run a 2 way set of active component speakers rated for 150rms + rear active coax speakers rated for 100 rms without using the passive crossovers. Could 2 channels be used for the tweeters, 4 channels for midwoofers, 2 channels for the rear doors?

Or would I bridge the whole thing to 200x4rms and use the passive crossovers, seems like that defeats the purpose of "going active"? If it makes a difference im considering the Hertz mille legend 165.3 for the front component, and Hertz mille pro for rear coax. But im more interested in the general configuration possibilities on this particular amp.


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## lv_v

Pb82 Ronin said:


> So the key to daisy chaining is pick the amp that you're going to run as your "primary" amp. Then plug the RCA output from the primary amp into the input for the 2nd amp in line. Then do the same for the mono. It's okay to have a full signal RCA going into your mono because you can program the parameters/freq into your TuN file. One DSP will run all of them. Does that make sense?
> 
> EDIT: So you're using 11 channels then? On how many speakers?


11 total channels, but 2 pairs are bridged, so 9 active channels. I can't find where in Tun to specify the master or slave amps, so I'm stuck with one amp in a project... I think that's the piece of the puzzle that I'm missing. The manual nor JL's Zendesk mentions this step.


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## lbp775

voodoojfb said:


> Can the vx800/8i be set up to run with only 4 of the channels bridged? For example, say i wanted to run a 2 way set of active component speakers rated for 150rms + rear active coax speakers rated for 100 rms without using the passive crossovers. Could 2 channels be used for the tweeters, 4 channels for midwoofers, 2 channels for the rear doors?
> 
> Or would I bridge the whole thing to 200x4rms and use the passive crossovers, seems like that defeats the purpose of "going active"? If it makes a difference im considering the Hertz mille legend 165.3 for the front component, and Hertz mille pro for rear coax. But im more interested in the general configuration possibilities on this particular amp.



Yes. This is my current setup: 2 channels going to the tweeters, 2 channels going to the mids and the remaining channels bridged to the midbass.

And yes, going passive would negate this amp's biggest feature. There are much cheaper, better amps to use if going passive.


----------



## voodoojfb

lbp775 said:


> Yes. This is my current setup: 2 channels going to the tweeters, 2 channels going to the mids and the remaining channels bridged to the midbass.
> 
> And yes, going passive would negate this amp's biggest feature. There are much cheaper, better amps to use if going passive.


Thanks so much for the quick reply... this kinda confirms my choice with the 8i. Makes the amp a viable option if I want to upgrade to a 3 way vs 2 way front component set in the future. Will have to change some stuff to accommodate the rear doors but that seems like small potatoes in comparison.


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## Pb82 Ronin

lv_v said:


> 11 total channels, but 2 pairs are bridged, so 9 active channels. I can't find where in Tun to specify the master or slave amps, so I'm stuck with one amp in a project... I think that's the piece of the puzzle that I'm missing. The manual nor JL's Zendesk mentions this step.


You're not stuck bro. For sure I would contact the tech support dept at JL. They were amazing (and quick) when I was stuck on my project. They emailed back and forth with me until I was squared away. Either way, here is how you connect them in series. This would be Primary amp into secondary amp. You would do exactly the same thing for secondary amp into your mono. It's okay to get a full range signal in VXi because of the tunability.


----------



## phroenips

If you're referring to seeing all the amps in the network, you can't do that in offline mode


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## lv_v

phroenips said:


> If you're referring to seeing all the amps in the network, you can't do that in offline mode


Yes, that's what I was referring to so that I can setup all routing and crossovers from my desk. Kind of a ****ty limitation...


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## lv_v

lv_v said:


> Yes, that's what I was referring to so that I can setup all routing and crossovers from my desk. Kind of a ****ty limitation...


Just to update with JL's customer service response to help others: With the Hub and multiple amps, you must create a new project for each amp.

Is what it is, just doesn't seem like the best way to streamline things... Maybe it'll make more sense when I get everything installed and get into the setup process.


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## LumbermanSVO

Hey Manville, have you guys posted the pinout for the DB25 connector anywhere?


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## Asdcreation

Fiio x7 mark 2 connected directly to vxi via optic output ,thereby bypassing headunit,anyone knows if we need to change something in tun software or it will starting working once we plug it in,getting the mark 2 soon


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## bbfoto

Asdcreation said:


> Fiio x7 mark 2 connected directly to vxi via optic output ,thereby bypassing headunit,anyone knows if we need to change something in tun software or it will starting working once we plug it in,getting the mark 2 soon


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## Asdcreation

Yeah its already done,just waiting for the wire now


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## msmith

lv_v said:


> I have 3 VXi amps, two for highs and one for subs. Do I need a new project for each amp? There's nothing in any of the documentation that I've found that addresses this. Odd to say the least.
> 
> I don't have them installed yet, just trying to set everything up via the simulation mode so I'm ready to go when they're installed.
> 
> FYI I'm going to be running the optical through the hub.


The optical routing through the hub is a good idea. It is completely separate from the Hub's JLId functionality. Think of the hub as two different products: one just splits and syncs optical signals, the other allows the amps to communicate together with the control devices. One amp becomes the "master" amplifier for connection to the computer running TuN, but all the amps in the network will be visible and controllable by the software.

In simulation mode you cannot simulate a network of amps. You will need to connect to an actual amp network in order to do that. 

When you see an amplifier network in TuN, you are managing multiple individual Project Files by accessing the amplifiers one at a time via the software. The software makes it easy to switch back and forth and also helps to make sure that all your presets are synchronized across the network, so that when the computer is disconnected, all the amps respond to the DRC switching presets. You must create all the presets in each of the amplifiers manually and assign them the same order and color in all the amplifiers.

Whenever you switch from amp to amp in the Tun Software you will be prompted to save the project, which only applies to the TuN project for that specific ampliifier. Each amplifier will have its own TuN project file. It's a good practice to name them as "Master Amp", "Amp 1", "Amp 2", etc.

If you need any help, contact our Tech Support Team here: https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new

Hope that helps... thank you for choosing VXi!


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## msmith

LumbermanSVO said:


> Hey Manville, have you guys posted the pinout for the DB25 connector anywhere?


No, we have not published it. They are different for each amplifier.


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## msmith

lv_v said:


> Yes, that's what I was referring to so that I can setup all routing and crossovers from my desk. Kind of a ****ty limitation...


There would be a zillion possible combinations, but we understand the request and will try to figure something out in future versions. Appreciate the feedback.


----------



## msmith

lv_v said:


> 11 total channels, but 2 pairs are bridged, so 9 active channels. I can't find where in Tun to specify the master or slave amps, so I'm stuck with one amp in a project... I think that's the piece of the puzzle that I'm missing. The manual nor JL's Zendesk mentions this step.


Where you connect the amplifiers to the Hub determines which is the Master amplifier. Refer to the Hub manual for a diagram.

http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mfg/9013/media_document/live_1/VXi_HUB_MAN.pdf?1534253506


----------



## Asdcreation

I have a question,I tried using fiio x7 mark 2 using mini toslink to optical directly into fix82 (which goes into my vxi 8i & 5i/1000 amps),while it worked fine,I control the sound through my DRC 205,the sub control on drc is not working properly ,while I can reduce & raise sub level through drc 205 sub control,it never goes to zero,even @ drc sub control knob turn all the way down , I can still hear 20-25% of the sub,I dont have any issues when listening through hu,I checked it,the sub goes off when the knob is turned all the way down,my signals are all optical,I like the hi res sound of fiio mark 2,other than this small issue it's working great,any help will be appreciated!


----------



## mrichard89

Does anyone know if the 800/8i can be used in 6 channel mode? I was planning to bridge two pairs of channels on the mid bass, and then have 4 channels for mids and tweets. I'm worried that it's only bridgeable when used as a 4 channel. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## LumbermanSVO

mrichard89 said:


> Does anyone know if the 800/8i can be used in 6 channel mode? I was planning to bridge two pairs of channels on the mid bass, and then have 4 channels for mids and tweets. I'm worried that it's only bridgeable when used as a 4 channel. Any help would be appreciated.


That is how I use mine. 1 through 4 are for my mids and tweets, the remaining channels are bridged and running my subs. Works great!


----------



## Pb82 Ronin

mrichard89 said:


> Does anyone know if the 800/8i can be used in 6 channel mode? I was planning to bridge two pairs of channels on the mid bass, and then have 4 channels for mids and tweets. I'm worried that it's only bridgeable when used as a 4 channel. Any help would be appreciated.


That is how I use mine right now. 1-4 tweets and mids, 5/6, 7/8 bridged to drive the woofers. Just make sure you don't run 2 ohm speakers bridged. The amp wont like that. I'm about to install some 2 ohm Focals for woofers, so I need to undo the bridge and go back to single channel. I guess its time to plug my rear speakers back in. LOL.


----------



## SinisterDodge

Hey fellas. I’m messing with my VXi 800 and I easily adjusted the RD1500 to 50hz I’m trying to adjust the digital input signal for my speakers and i can’t get it to turn yellow? I understand when running a speaker level input it will allow you to adjust the numbered input level to find clipping point but won’t allow you to at a digital level.

My question is. I’m able to turn my volume on my head unit up to achieve solid green at 12 on the volume but I’m able to turn it all the way up to 38 without any distortion at the VXi? It should distort at some point shouldn’t it? Does digital not distort? Or am I just not feeding enough input into the VXi to produce distortion? 

I don’t plan on playing music at 38 I would like to hear music still later in life lol but if I ever wanna really turn it up I would like the peace of mind knowing it won’t be distorted!


----------



## SinisterDodge

msmith; said:


> MSMITH
> Can you chime in please brotha?


----------



## msmith

SinisterDodge said:


> Hey fellas. I’m messing with my VXi 800 and I easily adjusted the RD1500 to 50hz I’m trying to adjust the digital input signal for my speakers and i can’t get it to turn yellow? I understand when running a speaker level input it will allow you to adjust the numbered input level to find clipping point but won’t allow you to at a digital level.


The digital inputs have no need for input sensitivity controls, or input level meters. S/PDIF signals don't behave like analog input signals. The level is always known.



> My question is. I’m able to turn my volume on my head unit up to achieve solid green at 12 on the volume but I’m able to turn it all the way up to 38 without any distortion at the VXi? It should distort at some point shouldn’t it? Does digital not distort? Or am I just not feeding enough input into the VXi to produce distortion?


A digital input signal should not distort. That is correct. You don't ever want to have digital clipping. If you want some extra output, do it at the amplifier Output Level controls. There you can allow the amplifier to clip, if you need extra level.

Most people who use digital inputs notice that it takes a higher volume level on the head unit to get loud. This is due to the gain structure with the digital input. The system will stay play just as loud within reasonable distortion limits, but it may not be able to be pushed hard into distortion as you could with an analog input that is set up with gain overlap. Digital is cleaner, though.


----------



## SinisterDodge

msmith said:


> The digital inputs have no need for input sensitivity controls, or input level meters. S/PDIF signals don't behave like analog input signals. The level is always known.
> 
> 
> 
> * oh alright I didn’t know that awesome!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A digital input signal should not distort. That is correct. You don't ever want to have digital clipping. If you want some extra output, do it at the amplifier Output Level controls. There you can allow the amplifier to clip, if you need extra level.
> 
> 
> 
> *Perfect I was scratching my head trying to figure it out lol. I certainly want to stay away from clipping I was just looking for a little more output. I usually listen to music just above 3/4 for the most part at around 30 out of 38. So it sounds like I’m safe listening to music up to volume level 38 correct? If so I plan on readjusting my RD1500’s input sensitivity at 38 with my DRC-205 at around 80% subwoofer volume would that work?*
> 
> 
> 
> Most people who use digital inputs notice that it takes a higher volume level on the head unit to get loud. This is due to the gain structure with the digital input. The system will stay play just as loud within reasonable distortion limits, but it may not be able to be pushed hard into distortion as you could with an analog input that is set up with gain overlap. Digital is cleaner, though.




*Exactly! I was scared to push it past 30/32 just being cautious but I think if I’m able to go up to 38 that’s all I would need for certain songs every now and then! Thanks for all your help smith!!*


----------



## les_garten

SinisterDodge said:


> Hey fellas. I’m messing with my VXi 800 and I easily adjusted the RD1500 to 50hz I’m trying to adjust the digital input signal for my speakers and i can’t get it to turn yellow? I understand when running a speaker level input it will allow you to adjust the numbered input level to find clipping point but won’t allow you to at a digital level.
> 
> My question is. I’m able to turn my volume on my head unit up to achieve solid green at 12 on the volume but I’m able to turn it all the way up to 38 without any distortion at the VXi? It should distort at some point shouldn’t it? Does digital not distort? Or am I just not feeding enough input into the VXi to produce distortion?
> 
> I don’t plan on playing music at 38 I would like to hear music still later in life lol but if I ever wanna really turn it up I would like the peace of mind knowing it won’t be distorted!


When you change the volume on the headunit, does it change the volume through the speakers?


----------



## SinisterDodge

les_garten said:


> When you change the volume on the headunit, does it change the volume through the speakers?




Yes the factory volume knob is still 100% fully functional!


----------



## les_garten

SinisterDodge said:


> Yes the factory volume knob is still 100% fully functional!


What headunit is that?


----------



## SinisterDodge

les_garten said:


> What headunit is that?




Factory Dodge 6.4 brotha!


----------



## krisl19

Anyone know how this compares to the audiocontrol line of DSP amps?


----------



## Viggen

krisl19 said:


> Anyone know how this compares to the audiocontrol line of DSP amps?


I am also curious about this question, I am considering audio control or JL amps for my Jeep, really like what seems like a smaller size for audiocontrol amps.... especially with how the wires connect to the VXI amps....


----------



## Adrock

Viggen said:


> I am also curious about this question, I am considering audio control or JL amps for my Jeep, really like what seems like a smaller size for audiocontrol amps.... especially with how the wires connect to the VXI amps....


I've always had good luck with JL amps. However, I bought AudioControl amps and couldn't be happier. Even at full retail, a D-4.800 and an LC-1.800 will get you 1100 to 1600 watts rms for less than the cost of the vxi700/5 and will sound even better imho. Plus you don't need to use an AudioControl sub amp if you don't want, but their amps are efficient and the sound is phenomenal. 

The DM software is not as powerful as the JL DSP, but it sounds just as good. You will have to have more space for two amps, but it was worth it for me. Plus the AudioControl has a 5 year warranty. 

The JL vxi stuff is just too overpriced imho.


----------



## ominous

The VXi amps are more expensive, but they are more capable by a long shot. And not just the DSP. You can run optical in and out of them, and the 8 channel VXi has the capability to have 4 stereo inputs selectable by the controller (a stereo pair is all you need to feed all 8 outputs on the amp and you've got 4 pair to work with). Plus you don't need to run a VXi sub amp, you can run any sub amp you want. And the outputs to that amp will have there own DSP channels as all of the preouts on each VXi have full DSP capability. The capability and flexibility of the VXi amps is next to impossible to beat. 

Are they more expensive? Yes. Do they do way more than the AudioControl units? Yes. It comes down to picking which amp has the features and meets the budget for your build. If VXi is out of your budget there are tons of options at lower price points.


----------



## xlynoz

ominous said:


> And the outputs to that amp will have there own DSP channels as all of the preouts on each VXi have full DSP capability.


To clarify, only the RCA preout have full DSP capability. The fiber preout has limited capabilities. Probably not a big deal for most use cases but there's a difference between the two.


----------



## Stycker

Hello everyone. I just purchased two amplifiers. JL VX 800/8i and VX 1000/1i. I haven't received them yet, but they should be here soon. I also will be getting the DRC-205. I am familiar with TUN as i use the TWK in another vehicle. I will be using factory head unit with a JL Fix 82. So digital from Fix 82 to 800/8 or I can ditch the Fix 82 and use the Pre out EQ to route back into the 800/8. My headunit outputs a smiley face from 0 volume up to max at 58. (extended bass and treble).

Questions:

1. Should I use the Fix 82?
2. How will the 1000/1 hook up to the 800/8? 
3. Which amp do I hook the DRC-205 up to?
4. Will TUN be used on 800/8 only or both amps?

The 800/8 will drive 3-way front stage(4 channels bridged to midbass) and the 1000/1 will drive two 12 inch subs ( each sub is single coil 4ohm)


----------



## Stycker

I saw a guy on youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmHCnhsvfGo&feature=youtu.be
He has a 1000/5 VXi. He could have used a Fix instead of routing the preout back into the 1000/5. If I use his method then I won't have a preout to send to the Mono sub amp (1000/1 VXi). I am trying to eliminate boxes from my system. Is there a way that I can eliminate the JL Fix 82 and still send a pre-out signal to my subs?


----------



## MrGreen83

Boo


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Stycker

Is there anybody out there. Just nod if you can hear me.


----------



## metanium

Stycker said:


> I saw a guy on youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmHCnhsvfGo&feature=youtu.be
> He has a 1000/5 VXi. He could have used a Fix instead of routing the preout back into the 1000/5. If I use his method then I won't have a preout to send to the Mono sub amp (1000/1 VXi). I am trying to eliminate boxes from my system. Is there a way that I can eliminate the JL Fix 82 and still send a pre-out signal to my subs?


I'm not 100% sure on this, so consider this with a grain of salt.

I personally would keep the FIX for simplicity of the auto-correction of the factory signal, that it performs. If you eliminate it, I believe the VXi amps/Tun still have the capability to correct the input and output sides (input EQ/output EQ) of the pre-amp signal. If this is the case you're good, otherwise keep the FIX. You might want to send send a PM to MSmith.


----------



## msmith

metanium said:


> I'm not 100% sure on this, so consider this with a grain of salt.
> 
> I personally would keep the FIX for simplicity of the auto-correction of the factory signal, that it performs. If you eliminate it, I believe the VXi amps/Tun still have the capability to correct the input and output sides (input EQ/output EQ) of the pre-amp signal. If this is the case you're good, otherwise keep the FIX. You might want to send send a PM to MSmith.


Sure... consider the FiX as input summer/level matcher/equalizer, leaving the VXi's DSP resources available for system tuning.

If you use a FiX 82, you can even connect its optical output to the optical input of the VXi, if you want, thus avoiding an extra DA/AD conversion.


----------



## msmith

Stycker said:


> I saw a guy on youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmHCnhsvfGo&feature=youtu.be
> He has a 1000/5 VXi. He could have used a Fix instead of routing the preout back into the 1000/5. If I use his method then I won't have a preout to send to the Mono sub amp (1000/1 VXi). I am trying to eliminate boxes from my system. Is there a way that I can eliminate the JL Fix 82 and still send a pre-out signal to my subs?


Unfortunately, you cannot do the loopback and end up with EQ's for your inputs and for your pre-outs to the 2nd sub amplifier. You could only have one or the other.

It's probably best to keep the FiX 82 and let it be your input EQ. Connect it via optical to the VXi's optical inputs for best results.


----------



## Stycker

Thank you Metanium and MSmith. Couple more questions. 
1. Should I just treat the VX 1000/1i as if it is just any 'ol mono sub amp and use the DSP from the 800/8? Or is there a reason to adjust the 1000/1 with its own TUN connection?
2. When setting gains with these amps- should I start out with the output levels at -18 db and work my way up towards 0 db ?


----------



## msmith

Stycker said:


> Thank you Metanium and MSmith. Couple more questions.
> 1. Should I just treat the VX 1000/1i as if it is just any 'ol mono sub amp and use the DSP from the 800/8? Or is there a reason to adjust the 1000/1 with its own TUN connection?
> 2. When setting gains with these amps- should I start out with the output levels at -18 db and work my way up towards 0 db ?


1) It's easier to treat the VX1000/1i as a "dumb amp" and use the processing on the VX800/8i's preouts channels. This way you can tune everything with one TuN connection without switching amps or needing a HuB. The only things you will need to set up are the turn on mode and the input sensitivity.

2) In the end you want the loudest output channel level at +12 dB, so I like to start with all channels at +12 dB and attenuate channels from there as needed.


----------



## SinisterDodge

msmith said:


> 1) It's easier to treat the VX1000/1i as a "dumb amp" and use the processing on the VX800/8i's preouts channels. This way you can tune everything with one TuN connection without switching amps or needing a HuB. The only things you will need to set up are the turn on mode and the input sensitivity.
> 
> 
> 
> 2) In the end you want the loudest output channel level at +12 dB, so I like to start with all channels at +12 dB and attenuate channels from there as needed.






Hey Smith! Can you explain or point me in the right direction how to achieve Left minus Right and Right minus Left, for rear ambience channels on the VXi?


----------



## bbfoto

SinisterDodge said:


> Hey Smith! Can you explain or point me in the right direction how to achieve Left minus Right and Right minus Left, for rear ambience channels on the VXi?


He already detailed the setup process a few pages back in the thread. You might glean some other useful information as well by reading through the entire thread.  It's only 22 pages long at this point.  Others are MUCH longer!


----------



## SinisterDodge

bbfoto said:


> He already detailed the setup process a few pages back in the thread. You might glean some other useful information as well by reading through the entire thread.  It's only 22 pages long at this point.  Others are MUCH longer!




Awesome! Yea I won’t lie and say I read all 530 posts but I probably should read through it lol thanks brotha I appreciate it


----------



## Pb82 Ronin

After a lengthy tuning session, I have to say VXi is truly impressive. It was very flexible and the 10 band EQ per channel is simply awesome to work with. We really only used about 5 per driver to get on the "curve." One note for JL...if you could label the EQ channels to mirror the channel titles, that would be very helpful. I know it's nit-picky stuff, but it did slow us down having to correlate, Channel A is EQ1, channel B is EQ2...etc. If Channel A is labeled EQ-A...much easier (read: faster).


----------



## msmith

Pb82 Ronin said:


> After a lengthy tuning session, I have to say VXi is truly impressive. It was very flexible and the 10 band EQ per channel is simply awesome to work with. We really only used about 5 per driver to get on the "curve." One note for JL...if you could label the EQ channels to mirror the channel titles, that would be very helpful. I know it's nit-picky stuff, but it did slow us down having to correlate, Channel A is EQ1, channel B is EQ2...etc. If Channel A is labeled EQ-A...much easier (read: faster).


Thanks for the feedback... we do have a standing "to do" item that would permit user labeling of the EQ's.


----------



## vactor

msmith said:


> 2) In the end you want the loudest output channel level at +12 dB, so I like to start with all channels at +12 dB and attenuate channels from there as needed.


hi manville. can you talk me through this a bit more? if i have 6 channels of output and i bump them all up to 12db, they will then all have the same outputs, and then use a spectrum analyzer and drop down the loudest area (driver ) to match the lowest overall and then eq out spikes and then eq to taste. does that sum it up?


----------



## les_garten

msmith said:


> Thanks for the feedback... we do have a standing "to do" item that would permit user labeling of the EQ's.


This would be outstanding. It is the first irritating niggle you run into when working with the interface.


----------



## msmith

vactor said:


> hi manville. can you talk me through this a bit more? if i have 6 channels of output and i bump them all up to 12db, they will then all have the same outputs, and then use a spectrum analyzer and drop down the loudest area (driver ) to match the lowest overall and then eq out spikes and then eq to taste. does that sum it up?


Think of +12dB as "0 dB" (which it basically is, technically speaking). Your highest level channel(s) will be set at +12 dB and all others attenuated below +12 dB.

If you prefer you can tune with everything staring at 0 dB, and when you are done setting levels, select all channels and turn them up together until the loudest one is at +12 dB. Same end result.

This will maximize your clean output level.


----------



## Pb82 Ronin

msmith said:


> Think of +12dB as "0 dB" (which it basically is, technically speaking). Your highest level channel(s) will be set at +12 dB and all others attenuated below +12 dB.
> 
> If you prefer you can tune with everything staring at 0 dB, and when you are done setting levels, select all channels and turn them up together until the loudest one is at +12 dB. Same end result.
> 
> This will maximize your clean output level.


This is how we did it...but we didn't quite need 12 db...we only needed 6 to get even curves. See below pic


----------



## msmith

Pb82 Ronin said:


> This is how we did it...but we didn't quite need 12 db...we only needed 6 to get even curves. See below pic




If you are happy with the output, that is fine. But, you could select all of the output channels together and raise them until one hits +12dB. This makes them all 6 dB louder without changing the relative levels of all the channels.


----------



## vactor

is this the right way you would set up 2 inputs that go through an EQ and then out through the preamp outputs and then (if the outputs are connected back into the inputs on channels 5 and 6) to then go through separate EQs for each of the 6 channels and then to the crossovers and then to the amplified outputs?


----------



## msmith

vactor said:


> is this the right way you would set up 2 inputs that go through an EQ and then out through the preamp outputs and then (if the outputs are connected back into the inputs on channels 5 and 6) to then go through separate EQs for each of the 6 channels and then to the crossovers and then to the amplified outputs?


Yes, that is precisely right.


----------



## Asdcreation

I am using aftermarket hu with vxi amps,all optical connections, I am using DRC 205 knob to control amp volume,i set it around 75% .the phone/dap volume control is used to increase/decrease volume

So is 75 good or should I set the knob around 65 or 70 to avoid any clipping issues


----------



## Pb82 Ronin

Asdcreation said:


> I am using aftermarket hu with vxi amps,all optical connections, I am using DRC 205 knob to control amp volume,i set it around 75% .the phone/dap volume control is used to increase/decrease volume
> 
> So is 75 good or should I set the knob around 65 or 70 to avoid any clipping issues


I don't believe that's the way the 205 works. Even if you have it "set" to 0 in the TuN, the moment the computer is "disconnected" from the VXi, it will have full range adjustability.


----------



## Pb82 Ronin

msmith said:


> If you are happy with the output, that is fine. But, you could select all of the output channels together and raise them until one hits +12dB. This makes them all 6 dB louder without changing the relative levels of all the channels.


So quick update: (thanks msmith for this advice)
DO THIS! if you haven't done so yet. OMG that made a world of difference! You can tell the tune is still spot on, it just plays louder (but still razor sharp). I'm no longer turning up the DRC all the way and wishing there was a little more. Now when I turn it up maybe 60% of the way, it's on the verge of too loud. I love having that much flexibility and range in the system/DRC. I'll tell you, the more and more I really get into the weeds with VXi, the more impressed I am.


----------



## Pb82 Ronin

Caught my first issue today...not with VXi per se...but with the DRC-205. Was driving the car all day today and it was a hot one, 95* in my area. When the amp or DRC got "hot" it wouldn't switch between files when I pushed down on the 3-way. It was working all week, and then worked again after I turned the car back on after sitting for 10 minutes on a beer run. But it was kind of embarrassing since I had a girl in the car and I was going to show her how time alignment worked as I switched back and forth between files. Instead nothing happened. I should say, the A/C was blowing cold and the cabin temp was not really higher than about 75* (guessing) back where the amp is sitting. It has plenty of ventilation as it's open air with the cabin of the car. Any thoughts from JL on this issue?


----------



## msmith

Pb82 Ronin said:


> Caught my first issue today...not with VXi per se...but with the DRC-205. Was driving the car all day today and it was a hot one, 95* in my area. When the amp or DRC got "hot" it wouldn't switch between files when I pushed down on the 3-way. It was working all week, and then worked again after I turned the car back on after sitting for 10 minutes on a beer run. But it was kind of embarrassing since I had a girl in the car and I was going to show her how time alignment worked as I switched back and forth between files. Instead nothing happened. I should say, the A/C was blowing cold and the cabin temp was not really higher than about 75* (guessing) back where the amp is sitting. It has plenty of ventilation as it's open air with the cabin of the car. Any thoughts from JL on this issue?


Sorry your demo got messed up... the rest of the DRC was working when this happened (Volume and Bass Level)? Just the push-button function failed?

I will check with our Tech team and see if they've seen this before.


----------



## Pb82 Ronin

msmith said:


> Sorry your demo got messed up... the rest of the DRC was working when this happened (Volume and Bass Level)? Just the push-button function failed?
> 
> I will check with our Tech team and see if they've seen this before.


Yes that's exactly correct. Only the push button failed to work. However, it has not happened since. Maybe a freak occurrence. I did have another idea for a VXi accessory though. How about making a input port extension for the ethernet cable. What I mean is the port you plug the ethernet into is directly on the amp as you know. Well, if there was a way to make that port extended as well, you can plug the laptop into where ever you mounted the remote receptacle. This would allow the folks that tune frequently, but have amps mounted in difficult to access spots (or custom enclosures) greater flexibility in laptop tuning. 

I know what you're thinking...we have a blue tooth dongle that does exactly that but wirelessly. I know. I have it. But it takes too long to hook up (pair) when you're cycling ignitions on and off and frankly, it hampers usage. So much so that I don't even bother with it when tuning. I would prefer my remote port idea over the Bluetooth every day of the week and twice on Sunday...not to mention it would be FAR cheaper than the Bluetooth dongle the is a PITA to work with. Just my experience this far.


----------



## LumbermanSVO

A couple days ago I plugged my MacOS laptop into my 800.8 and it wouldn't see the amp, but Windows laptop saw it just fine. The software on the MacOS laptop is up to date, any reason why it might now see the amp?


----------



## msmith

I spoke with our engineers. We have identified this issue and have a fix for it in an upcoming software/firmware update. Could be about 30 days away. 

As you supected, it is related to temperature. It is not a hardware malfunction, though. 

When the next TuN update is released, the firmware update will also be released. 

Thanks for your patience.


----------



## msmith

LumbermanSVO said:


> A couple days ago I plugged my MacOS laptop into my 800.8 and it wouldn't see the amp, but Windows laptop saw it just fine. The software on the MacOS laptop is up to date, any reason why it might now see the amp?




Those are usually USB connection issues. Did you try disconnecting and reconnecting a few times.


----------



## saltyone

I have found that my DRC-200 loosens up where it’s mounted. Basically, the little locking nut always finds a way to back itself off, causing obvious issues with using its functions. I have to hold the sub gain knob with one hand and push the master volume knob in with the other when this happens to change the preset. I have to wait until I return home to correct the issue since the center console must be disassembled to tighten the nut. 

This same issue happens in my Jeep with the DRC-100. 

I am 100% sure that the DRC is mounted properly. Since I use it for master volume, it’s constantly being used, which I believe is contributing to the issue.

I love my FiX and TwK however and wouldn’t dream of using another DSP. It’s more of a minor frustration than anything else.

I probably need to find a secondary locking nut that fits the DRC and fix the issue for good. Anyone know the proper size?


----------



## LumbermanSVO

msmith said:


> Those are usually USB connection issues. Did you try disconnecting and reconnecting a few times.


Yeah. I'll replace the cable and try again.

Also, can you guys make it easier to close the app? When you open the app the ONLY options are to connect to the amp or simulate one. Why can't I just quit the app instead?


----------



## lbp775

msmith said:


> I spoke with our engineers. We have identified this issue and have a fix for it in an upcoming software/firmware update. Could be about 30 days away.
> 
> As you supected, it is related to temperature. It is not a hardware malfunction, though.
> 
> When the next TuN update is released, the firmware update will also be released.
> 
> Thanks for your patience.


I don't have the same issue but similar. When it's hot outside (95+) the outer knob that I set for subwoofer control doesn't work. The push button preset and inner knob works. Will this fix correct it as well?


----------



## msmith

lbp775 said:


> I don't have the same issue but similar. When it's hot outside (95+) the outer knob that I set for subwoofer control doesn't work. The push button preset and inner knob works. Will this fix correct it as well?




I will check. (Not sure)


----------



## msmith

LumbermanSVO said:


> Yeah. I'll replace the cable and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, can you guys make it easier to close the app? When you open the app the ONLY options are to connect to the amp or simulate one. Why can't I just quit the app instead?



That could be addressed in the new release.


----------



## Pb82 Ronin

msmith said:


> That could be addressed in the new release.


 How about making a input port extension for the ethernet cable? What I mean is the port you plug the ethernet into is directly on the amp as you know. Well, if there was a way to make that port extended as well, you can plug the laptop into where ever you mounted the remote receptacle. This would allow the folks that tune frequently, but have amps mounted in difficult to access spots (or custom enclosures) greater flexibility in laptop tuning. 

I know what you're thinking...we have a blue tooth dongle that does exactly that but wirelessly. I know. I have it. But it takes too long to hook up (pair) when you're cycling ignitions on and off and frankly, it hampers usage. So much so that I don't even bother with it when tuning. I would prefer my remote port idea over the Bluetooth every day of the week and twice on Sunday...not to mention it would be FAR cheaper than the Bluetooth dongle the is a PITA to work with. Just my experience this far. Thoughts?


----------



## msmith

Pb82 Ronin said:


> How about making a input port extension for the ethernet cable? What I mean is the port you plug the ethernet into is directly on the amp as you know. Well, if there was a way to make that port extended as well, you can plug the laptop into where ever you mounted the remote receptacle. This would allow the folks that tune frequently, but have amps mounted in difficult to access spots (or custom enclosures) greater flexibility in laptop tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> I know what you're thinking...we have a blue tooth dongle that does exactly that but wirelessly. I know. I have it. But it takes too long to hook up (pair) when you're cycling ignitions on and off and frankly, it hampers usage. So much so that I don't even bother with it when tuning. I would prefer my remote port idea over the Bluetooth every day of the week and twice on Sunday...not to mention it would be FAR cheaper than the Bluetooth dongle the is a PITA to work with. Just my experience this far. Thoughts?



http://www.jlaudio.com/xd-usb-a-b-18-car-audio-processors-processor-accessories-90471

http://www.jlaudio.com/xmd-usb-3-5m...io-connections-jacks-for-panel-mounting-90698


----------



## Pb82 Ronin

msmith said:


> XD-USB-A/B-18 - Car Audio - Processors - Processor Accessories
> 
> XMD-USB/3.5MM-PNL - Marine Audio - Audio Connections - Jacks for Panel-Mounting


So the long cable is cool...but I am envisioning a combination of those two products. I would like the type B USB receptacle (the one plugging into the amp for DSP control) on a flat panel that I can mount anywhere. That way I can take the included cable (with the VXi amp) and just plug it into this port that I placed in a convenient location (like a glove box for instance), and have full control from my laptop. That way, I won't have to open the trunk, remove beauty panels, etc just to do some tuning. 

Side note: It would also be cool to incorporate the Ethernet ports for the DRC-205 and the VXi-BTC into the same panel so I can increase mounting location possibilities for them as well. It would alleviate some of the rats nest of wiring going into/out of the VXi. You could then adjust the length of Ethernet cable needed for a clean install just like we do RCA cables.


----------



## lbp775

msmith said:


> I will check. (Not sure)


Okay, so this happened again today and I think I have determined that it is not the DRC. I have two amps a Vxi800/8 powering the tweeters and mids and a Vxi1000/5 powering the midbass and sub. They are both connected to a hub. When this happened, I attempted to make a connection via bluetooth to the amps to see what was going on. I was able to connect to the main amp (Vxi800) but can not see the Vxi 1000/5 on the list. It is definitely powering the midbass and subs, I just don't have control over them. It's as if the dsp portion of the amp does not power on if it's hot outside.


----------



## msmith

lbp775 said:


> Okay, so this happened again today and I think I have determined that it is not the DRC. I have two amps a Vxi800/8 powering the tweeters and mids and a Vxi1000/5 powering the midbass and sub. They are both connected to a hub. When this happened, I attempted to make a connection via bluetooth to the amps to see what was going on. I was able to connect to the main amp (Vxi800) but can not see the Vxi 1000/5 on the list. It is definitely powering the midbass and subs, I just don't have control over them. It's as if the dsp portion of the amp does not power on if it's hot outside.


Very weird... this would happen on a Friday at closing time... grrr... I will ask our Tech Support Manager to check this thread and see if he can help you.


----------



## lbp775

msmith said:


> Very weird... this would happen on a Friday at closing time... grrr... I will ask our Tech Support Manager to check this thread and see if he can help you.


Opps sorry. :blush:

Thanks for your help!


----------



## msmith

lbp775 said:


> Opps sorry. :blush:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help!




No worries. I talked to Carlos Chavez, our Tech Support Mgr. here is his take:

Sounds more like a hub communication issue, not an amp issue. I'd have him try to connect the USB cable or BTC directly to the 1000/5 the next time it happens, I'm sure the project will show up properly. What he is describing points to the hub activating the network tab, hence the BTC not communicating with the second amp.


----------



## tonynca

msmith said:


> Fortunately you have an input mixer, a bandpass filter and up to 20.2 ms of delay in each channel, so you can do a pretty nice rear fill setup.
> 
> First, select the Setup Tab where you will connect both left and right inputs to EQ 1, 2, 3 and 4 in the Input Router. Both L and R inputs to each one.
> 
> EQ 1 will go to the Left Rear Door
> EQ 2 will go to the Right Rear Door
> EQ 3 will go to the Left Rear Deck
> EQ 4 will go to the Right Rear Deck
> 
> Then, using the input mixer controls, you will invert the polarity of the input channel opposite the side that the speaker is on (invert the right input for the left speaker channels (EQ 1 and 3), invert the left input for the right speaker channels (EQ 2 and 4). The input mixer will automatically attenuate each input by -6dB so that nothing clips. If you want to adjust the mix further you can play with the relative attenuation of the inputs, but I would leave it in the default mode to start.
> 
> Once that is routed, connect the amp outputs to the EQ's as follows: EQ 1 > Left Rear Door, EQ 2 > Right Rear Door, EQ 3 > Left Rear Deck, EQ4 > Right Rear Deck. This will give you individual EQ's for each speaker.
> 
> Then, go to the Tune Tab
> 
> Set your high-pass crossover frequency (100 Hz at 24dB/oct. is where I would start).
> 
> Then select a low-pass crossover frequency (3 kHz @ 12 dB/oct. seems to work well in this application)
> 
> You have up to 20.2 ms of delay per channel... start around 15 ms, it should not be necessary to set distances like you do with your front speakers.
> 
> You also will need to attenuate the level of the rear speakers using the Output Level Trim. If that's not enough attenuation, you can go back to the Setup Tab and attenuate the MIXER LEVEL Trim control up to 12 dB further.
> 
> When done right, the effect can be very pleasing in the front of the car and also improves the sound in the rear seat.
> 
> If you need screen shots, PM me an email address and I'll send you some.
> 
> Hope that helps. Have fun.
> 
> Manville Smith
> JL Audio, Inc.


Based on this. I'm guessing the 600i6 cannot do 2-way active front and coaxial rear fill.


----------



## msmith

tonynca said:


> Based on this. I'm guessing the 600i6 cannot do 2-way active front and coaxial rear fill.




2-way active front plus rear speakers? Sure it can. Just need a sub amp, which can be fed (with dsp) from the VX600/6i pre-outs.


----------



## lbp775

msmith said:


> No worries. I talked to Carlos Chavez, our Tech Support Mgr. here is his take:
> 
> Sounds more like a hub communication issue, not an amp issue. I'd have him try to connect the USB cable or BTC directly to the 1000/5 the next time it happens, I'm sure the project will show up properly. What he is describing points to the hub activating the network tab, hence the BTC not communicating with the second amp.


So I was able to confirm this yesterday. It started to do this again so I connected to the primary amp via BTC to verify that the secondary amp is not showing up. After that, I powered everything down and moved the DRC to the secondary amp (1000/5). I then had to switch the primary and secondary amp connections on the hub in order to enable the DRC. I guess the controller only works if it's connected to the primary amp? 

I now have my sub controls back. But I'm guessing when this happens, changing profiles from the controller is only changing on the primary amp since the hub can't see the secondary. Any chance this can be fixed with a firmware update?


----------



## msmith

lbp775 said:


> So I was able to confirm this yesterday. It started to do this again so I connected to the primary amp via BTC to verify that the secondary amp is not showing up. After that, I powered everything down and moved the DRC to the secondary amp (1000/5). I then had to switch the primary and secondary amp connections on the hub in order to enable the DRC. I guess the controller only works if it's connected to the primary amp?
> 
> I now have my sub controls back. But I'm guessing when this happens, changing profiles from the controller is only changing on the primary amp since the hub can't see the secondary. Any chance this can be fixed with a firmware update?


I suggest you give Carlos a call at 888-JLAUDIO, or send him an e-mail at [email protected]. He will get it sorted out, I'm sure.


----------



## Pb82 Ronin

My DRC-205 does keep failing to switch between presets when hot. Keeps happening during demos. I'm going to wrap the base of it in some DEI gold heat tape and see if that helps.


----------



## vactor

having recently dialed in my 800/8 i have to admit, i am totally blown away by how amazing the amp and software is. i would only suggest that the tutorials for the Tun software be updated. things like adding input EQ, adding the 12db boost on outputs etc are rather hidden away and make a HUGE difference when you 'find' them. also consider a tutorial on using the all-pass filter too. but this is a pretty damn amazing amplifier and software!!


----------



## Stycker

msmith said:


> Think of +12dB as "0 dB" (which it basically is, technically speaking). Your highest level channel(s) will be set at +12 dB and all others attenuated below +12 dB.
> 
> If you prefer you can tune with everything staring at 0 dB, and when you are done setting levels, select all channels and turn them up together until the loudest one is at +12 dB. Same end result.
> 
> This will maximize your clean output level.


Sorry to beat this dead horse further. Should I set the preouts to +12db. The preouts are going from 800/8 to 1000/1. Then adjust the input voltage on 1000/1 accordingly?


----------



## msmith

Stycker said:


> Sorry to beat this dead horse further. Should I set the preouts to +12db. The preouts are going from 800/8 to 1000/1. Then adjust the input voltage on 1000/1 accordingly?




Yes. Basic rule of thumb to follow is high output level / low input level.


----------



## Stycker

Thank you M. Smith, this is great customer service. I am also blown away by these amplifiers. More power than I thought they would have. I'm also one of the few that actually love the connections. They are very solid and tight, but easily removable. These amps easily fit under my front seats with room to spare. I was able to eliminate a JL Fix and DSP making for a much cleaner install.


----------



## Stycker

When selecting different presets in the TUN software, how will I know what preset I'm working on. The light on the DRC goes off and I don't see any indication in the software as to what preset I am working on. Its been a while since I tuned with the TWK, but I'm almost certain that the DRC light stayed on and the preset tab was highlighted making it easy to know what preset I was working on. Old age is now setting in and I can't remember what preset I selected so I find myself saving the data and then hitting the preset again just to know what I was working on.


----------



## msmith

Stycker said:


> When selecting different presets in the TUN software, how will I know what preset I'm working on. The light on the DRC goes off and I don't see any indication in the software as to what preset I am working on. Its been a while since I tuned with the TWK, but I'm almost certain that the DRC light stayed on and the preset tab was highlighted making it easy to know what preset I was working on. Old age is now setting in and I can't remember what preset I selected so I find myself saving the data and then hitting the preset again just to know what I was working on.


The presets show up as folder tabs at the top of the TuN window. When you create a new one, it is disabled by default. Click on the little arrow in the folder tab and you can enable it (make it choosable) and it will ask you to assign a color to it. 

You can switch from active preset to another by clicking the folder tabs. This takes the place of the DRC push-button and indicator while the software is connected to the amplifier.


----------



## Stycker

Thank you Mr. Smith. whenever I have multiple tabs up top, how will I know which one is open. The preset that I am working on is not highlighted in any way and the DRC light shuts off. In the old software and on the TWK the preset tab gets highlighted and the light on the DRC remains light so I know what preset is selected by the color. With these new amps all the tabs remain the same size no matter which preset is selected and the DRC light shuts off when the software is connected. Sometimes when tuning I actually forget what preset I'm working on. I know this sounds like a personal problem Lol.


----------



## Pb82 Ronin

Pb82 Ronin said:


> My DRC-205 does keep failing to switch between presets when hot. Keeps happening during demos. I'm going to wrap the base of it in some DEI gold heat tape and see if that helps.


Hasn't been helping! WTH? Heat needs to not be a factor.


----------



## Phobos223

Hey all. VX1000/5i owner here looking for a little help/advice. I have mine hooked up through a NavTV 650GM interface via toslink optical cable. The sound is great but I am wondering why the output when using the optical connection is so much lower than with the analog inputs? Even with the output trim cranked up it does not come anywhere close to what the analog does. I have to turn the factory radio up nearly all the way for it to really get going. Has anyone here experienced this? I have found a few other places on the web where guys are mentioning this very issue but not to many details. Is this something I have to live with? 

I have done plenty of trouble shooting with optical cables, even connected the cable to an external home AV receiver and proven that the output from the NavTv is good. Analog connection is nice and loud so I know the amp can get after it so nothing wrong there. Anyway, I love the amp and TUN software, just want some closure on this optical issue one way or the other  Any help is appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## PaperLion

Phobos223 said:


> Hey all. VX1000/5i owner here looking for a little help/advice. I have mine hooked up through a NavTV 650GM interface via toslink optical cable. The sound is great but I am wondering why the output when using the optical connection is so much lower than with the analog inputs? Even with the output trim cranked up it does not come anywhere close to what the analog does. I have to turn the factory radio up nearly all the way for it to really get going. Has anyone here experienced this? I have found a few other places on the web where guys are mentioning this very issue but not to many details. Is this something I have to live with?
> 
> I have done plenty of trouble shooting with optical cables, even connected the cable to an external home AV receiver and proven that the output from the NavTv is good. Analog connection is nice and loud so I know the amp can get after it so nothing wrong there. Anyway, I love the amp and TUN software, just want some closure on this optical issue one way or the other <img src="http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" /> Any help is appreciated. Thanks!


I'm experiencing exactly this issue with my Nav TV Zen V + Helix dsp.3 + Mosconi setup using optical. I hadnt tried analog cables yet. There's also the issue of downmix settings for me on Toslink. The car has a center channel and it seems like it's getting routed to all the speakers.

Think I'm going to do the center channel and analog inputs in the next few weeks. The Toslink can only do stereo or mixed stereo. I'm not clear on how the Nav TV really handles the center channel with downmix turned off but I think with it on the center channel goes to both left and right. Im also not clear on how the car builds the center channel but I'm guessing it's not ideal?


----------



## Stycker

Phobos223 said:


> Hey all. VX1000/5i owner here looking for a little help/advice. I have mine hooked up through a NavTV 650GM interface via toslink optical cable. The sound is great but I am wondering why the output when using the optical connection is so much lower than with the analog inputs? Even with the output trim cranked up it does not come anywhere close to what the analog does. I have to turn the factory radio up nearly all the way for it to really get going. Has anyone here experienced this? I have found a few other places on the web where guys are mentioning this very issue but not to many details. Is this something I have to live with?
> 
> I have done plenty of trouble shooting with optical cables, even connected the cable to an external home AV receiver and proven that the output from the NavTv is good. Analog connection is nice and loud so I know the amp can get after it so nothing wrong there. Anyway, I love the amp and TUN software, just want some closure on this optical issue one way or the other  Any help is appreciated. Thanks!


I experienced the same problem. I was told by Manville that this is perfectly normal. The optical input is a known quantity and the signal is very clean. There will be next to no distortion on optical with the volumn turned up almost all the way. The analog signal will clip sooner and is not as clean. Both analog and digital will get to the same loudness level. You just have to turn the volume up higher with the optical input.


----------



## PaperLion

Stycker said:


> Phobos223 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey all. VX1000/5i owner here looking for a little help/advice. I have mine hooked up through a NavTV 650GM interface via toslink optical cable. The sound is great but I am wondering why the output when using the optical connection is so much lower than with the analog inputs? Even with the output trim cranked up it does not come anywhere close to what the analog does. I have to turn the factory radio up nearly all the way for it to really get going. Has anyone here experienced this? I have found a few other places on the web where guys are mentioning this very issue but not to many details. Is this something I have to live with?
> 
> I have done plenty of trouble shooting with optical cables, even connected the cable to an external home AV receiver and proven that the output from the NavTv is good. Analog connection is nice and loud so I know the amp can get after it so nothing wrong there. Anyway, I love the amp and TUN software, just want some closure on this optical issue one way or the other <img src="http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" /> Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> I experienced the same problem. I was told by Manville that this is perfectly normal. The optical input is a known quantity and the signal is very clean. There will be next to no distortion on optical with the volumn turned up almost all the way. The analog signal will clip sooner and is not as clean. Both analog and digital will get to the same loudness level. You just have to turn the volume up higher with the optical input.
Click to expand...

It does seem ridiculously clean but I just feel like my system should be able to get louder than it is with all volume maxed. And it just feels weird rolling around with the head unit at 100%. The only other option I have is to mess with the gains on the amps as far as I know.


----------



## Stycker

PaperLion said:


> It does seem ridiculously clean but I just feel like my system should be able to get louder than it is with all volume maxed. And it just feels weird rolling around with the head unit at 100%. The only other option I have is to mess with the gains on the amps as far as I know.


I felt the same way. I switched over to analog RCA's. System got much louder and I didn't notice any noise or drop off in sound quality Vs. using digital input.


----------



## Phobos223

Thanks for the replies fellas!




PaperLion said:


> It does seem ridiculously clean but I just feel like my system should be able to get louder than it is with all volume maxed. And it just feels weird rolling around with the head unit at 100%. The only other option I have is to mess with the gains on the amps as far as I know.


Exactly. I have the DRC-205 as well, and basically have that thing cranked up all the way as well. I have all my output trim set at +9 to +12 and it does get pretty damn loud, just seems weird.



Stycker said:


> I experienced the same problem. I was told by Manville that this is perfectly normal. The optical input is a known quantity and the signal is very clean. There will be next to no distortion on optical with the volumn turned up almost all the way. The analog signal will clip sooner and is not as clean. Both analog and digital will get to the same loudness level. You just have to turn the volume up higher with the optical input.


It is for sure super clean all the way up... like amazingly clean so I can attest to that, just seems like it could be... louder 




I did ask the guys as JL about this issue and they told me basically the same thing... basically it is what it is... but then he did mention that there is some secret way to boost the input signal on the optical connection but it bypasses all sorts of safety protections in the amp and he did not recommend doing this.... He did not explain this witchcraft any further... but seems like they are at least aware of other this issue/condition.

When I hook my navTV directly to my garage stereo via the optical cable it is just as loud as any other signal that I feed it, thats why I thought it might just be something with the VXi.... anyway, I can live with it but it would sure be nice if there was an additional "boost" for the output when using optical to allow for a higher volume maximum from the head unit.


----------



## PaperLion

Phobos223 said:


> When I hook my navTV directly to my garage stereo via the optical cable it is just as loud as any other signal that I feed it, thats why I thought it might just be something with the VXi.... anyway, I can live with it but it would sure be nice if there was an additional "boost" for the output when using optical to allow for a higher volume maximum from the head unit.


There is a loudness toggle dip switch on the Nav TV. In the manual it seemed to indicate it is for bass, though. I haven't tried it.


----------



## Phobos223

PaperLion said:


> There is a loudness toggle dip switch on the Nav TV. In the manual it seemed to indicate it is for bass, though. I haven't tried it.


So I actually thought that might have been it the other day and tested in both positions and it made no difference. I think that may be for the analog outputs only. I asked NavTv about that but they never got back to me.

The JL tech did get back to me today (great customer service there!) and gave me the procedure to bump the signal a few DBs. It is actually pretty simple but he said to be careful as you have to disable the error checking to get it to work.

He assured me that the amp will reach the rated power you just have to crank the volume a bit higher to get there, as we have all noted. He said the tweak to the input level would allow for a bit more headroom on the volume knob its just not recommended


----------



## PaperLion

Phobos223 said:


> PaperLion said:
> 
> 
> 
> There is a loudness toggle dip switch on the Nav TV. In the manual it seemed to indicate it is for bass, though. I haven't tried it.
> 
> 
> 
> So I actually thought that might have been it the other day and tested in both positions and it made no difference. I think that may be for the analog outputs only. I asked NavTv about that but they never got back to me.
> 
> The JL tech did get back to me today (great customer service there!) and gave me the procedure to bump the signal a few DBs. It is actually pretty simple but he said to be careful as you have to disable the error checking to get it to work.
> 
> He assured me that the amp will reach the rated power you just have to crank the volume a bit higher to get there, as we have all noted. He said the tweak to the input level would allow for a bit more headroom on the volume knob its just not recommended
Click to expand...

So yeah I think you're right the loudness is only for analog. 

I did some more investigation and it turns out my installer just really didnt try very hard at all. I bought a laptop today so that I can tune the dsp myself. He didnt use the crossovers in the dsp but used the ones on the amps instead and just left all the gains at the lowest possible setting. So there is gobs of power available. 

He put my 7 inch Hertz Legend midbass in the front on 2 70 watt channels and put the stock B&O rear speakers on the 250 watt per channel amp. So either he's a complete idiot, or I am for paying him to do this job. Probably both.


----------



## Phobos223

PaperLion said:


> So yeah I think you're right the loudness is only for analog.
> 
> I did some more investigation and it turns out my installer just really didnt try very hard at all. I bought a laptop today so that I can tune the dsp myself. He didnt use the crossovers in the dsp but used the ones on the amps instead and just left all the gains at the lowest possible setting. So there is gobs of power available.
> 
> He put my 7 inch Hertz Legend midbass in the front on 2 70 watt channels and put the stock B&O rear speakers on the 250 watt per channel amp. So either he's a complete idiot, or I am for paying him to do this job. Probably both.


Brutal! Well if you want to try the JL trick to boost the signal it is pretty simple. I can post some screen shots later, but basically all you have to do is uncheck that box about error correction in the project settings, click OK to the warning, then once you do that on the inputs screen to the right of the digital inputs, that "mixer level trim" will allow you to specify a positive number. Previously this was not allowed. JL tech said not to go past 3db or you could be in trouble. He said do this as a last resort, so just be careful if you try it as not to fry your gear.

One more thing to add - once you disable the error checking you will not be able to re-enabled it unless you start a clean project - so if you have a tune you are working on make a backup copy first!


----------



## redsun

Phobos223 said:


> Brutal! Well if you want to try the JL trick to boost the signal it is pretty simple. I can post some screen shots later, but basically all you have to do is uncheck that box about error correction in the project settings, click OK to the warning, then once you do that on the inputs screen to the right of the digital inputs, that "mixer level trim" will allow you to specify a positive number. Previously this was not allowed. JL tech said not to go past 3db or you could be in trouble. He said do this as a last resort, so just be careful if you try it as not to fry your gear.
> 
> One more thing to add - once you disable the error checking you will not be able to re-enabled it unless you start a clean project - so if you have a tune you are working on make a backup copy first!


Man, perfect timing on this post! My vxi amp sounds amazing, but like most on this thread with optical in, I have all of my outputs at damn near +12 to get any kind of volume. (I'm in an f250 with the Sony system and the Pac module with optical out)

If you've got a screen shot that would be very helpful to the group I'm sure!

Manville: If we bump this input up does this potentially void the warranty??


----------



## PaperLion

> Brutal! Well if you want to try the JL trick to boost the signal it is pretty simple. I can post some screen shots later, but basically all you have to do is uncheck that box about error correction in the project settings, click OK to the warning, then once you do that on the inputs screen to the right of the digital inputs, that "mixer level trim" will allow you to specify a positive number. Previously this was not allowed. JL tech said not to go past 3db or you could be in trouble. He said do this as a last resort, so just be careful if you try it as not to fry your gear.
> 
> One more thing to add - once you disable the error checking you will not be able to re-enabled it unless you start a clean project - so if you have a tune you are working on make a backup copy first!


Cool trick for sure. Not sure I fully understand the need if your gain levels aren't maxed out and aren't at the distortion point yet. Maybe they are though. I don't actually have a JL amp right now. I had a vxi 700/5 but I ended up trading it out for a mosconi and a helix. It sounded great but I thought I needed more power and wanted the helix director controller in my life. The Mosconi amps I got are nice but being way underutilized obviously the way he set them up. I'll work on it this weekend.


----------



## Phobos223

PaperLion said:


> Cool trick for sure. Not sure I fully understand the need if your gain levels aren't maxed out and aren't at the distortion point yet. Maybe they are though. I don't actually have a JL amp right now. I had a vxi 700/5 but I ended up trading it out for a mosconi and a helix. It sounded great but I thought I needed more power and wanted the helix director controller in my life. The Mosconi amps I got are nice but being way underutilized obviously the way he set them up. I'll work on it this weekend.


Ahh ok - So the problem is there is no "gain" control on the VXi when using optical input. It is just a flat, fixed signal. 

I see you are in SA, where abouts? I am just outside up in Garden Ridge:beerchug:


----------



## PaperLion

> Ahh ok - So the problem is there is no "gain" control on the VXi when using optical input. It is just a flat, fixed signal.
> 
> I see you are in SA, where abouts? I am just outside up in Garden Ridge<img src="http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/images/smilies/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Beerchug" class="inlineimg" />


Ahhhhhh, that does make sense. Not sure if my dsp has a gain control for the dig input but it runs analog out to the amps of course.

I'm sort of 1604 I10 area. I work in the rim at Medtronic. We should grab a beer sometime and compare "notes". I've been out of the game a long time and never really had much money to spend on car stereo before anyway.

What kind of tunes are you running through your system?


----------



## Phobos223

PaperLion said:


> Ahhhhhh, that does make sense. Not sure if my dsp has a gain control for the dig input but it runs analog out to the amps of course.
> 
> I'm sort of 1604 I10 area. I work in the rim at Medtronic. We should grab a beer sometime and compare "notes". I've been out of the game a long time and never really had much money to spend on car stereo before anyway.
> 
> What kind of tunes are you running through your system?


Nice man we definitely should. I am new to this game but learning at an exponential rate thanks to sites like this 

I listen to just about everything from country to hip hop, live Dead as well, but mainly rock and electronic. However, as soon as this Friday hits this week the new TOOL album will be on repeat for several weeks


----------



## saltyone

Phobos223 said:


> Nice man we definitely should. I am new to this game but learning at an exponential rate thanks to sites like this
> 
> I listen to just about everything from country to hip hop, live Dead as well, but mainly rock and electronic. However, as soon as this Friday hits this week the new TOOL album will be on repeat for several weeks


With all the build-up, this album better be good. I'd hate to see them go 180 degrees in a different direction with their music like a few others have done over the years. I just hope we're not all setting ourselves up to be disappointed come Friday! LOL.

With my tune where it presently is (almost perfect as far as I can tell), I have found myself going back and revisiting music that I haven't listened to in years. It's like I've rediscovered Pink Floyd for the first time...holy crap! Experiencing Tool on a properly tuned system is just as enjoyable.


----------



## Phobos223

saltyone said:


> With all the build-up, this album better be good. I'd hate to see them go 180 degrees in a different direction with their music like a few others have done over the years. I just hope we're not all setting ourselves up to be disappointed come Friday! LOL.
> 
> With my tune where it presently is (almost perfect as far as I can tell), I have found myself going back and revisiting music that I haven't listened to in years. It's like I've rediscovered Pink Floyd for the first time...holy crap! Experiencing Tool on a properly tuned system is just as enjoyable.


The Fear Inoculum single was f-in awesome, and Descending and Invincible rocked hard live when I saw them this past spring so I am confident 

Once I quit swapping components I need to get a good tune in place and rediscover some old tunes as well! Pink Floyd definitely on there... Perhaps a Zepplin 1-4 run down as well


----------



## saltyone

Phobos223 said:


> Ahh ok - So the problem is there is no "gain" control on the VXi when using optical input. It is just a flat, fixed signal.
> 
> I see you are in SA, where abouts? I am just outside up in Garden Ridge:beerchug:


Reading the last few posts in this thread, aren't you guys talking about using the "expert tuning" in the DSP? There are three levels of tuning available in the TuN software. The "expert" option opens up a few areas that aren't meant to be used by novices. The warnings are just to ensure you understand that by using this level of control, you are running the risk of damaging your speakers...if you screw something up. The below is from JL's website;

*Project Level:* 

Sometimes you need maximum flexibility and complexity,
and sometimes you don’t. To address your particular Project with
appropriate complexity, the TüN™ software offers three Project Level
choices: Basic, Advanced or Expert.

*Basic:* offers a streamlined feature set with common sense safeguards
designed for efficient system tuning. It is ideal for first time DSP users and
time-sensitive projects. You will have access to the Input Mixer and Router,
DRC Setup, Output Polarity, 10-band Graphic Equalizers, High-Pass and
Low Pass Filters (12, 24 or 48 dB/octave, Linkwitz-Riley) and Level
Trim controls.

*Advanced:* offers a full feature set with restrained safeguards to prevent
accidental damage to the audio system. This is ideal for experienced DSP
users looking to get full advantage of the TwK’s power, while avoiding
certain pitfalls that can result in poor performance or speaker damage. You
will be able to access all the Basic Level features listed above, plus summing
polarity, fully parametric 10-band EQ’s and channel delays.

*Expert:* offers the complete feature set with no safeguards. This level is
only for expert users who have no need for technical support. Additional
crossover filter slopes and alignments are added with the following
safeguards and constraints disabled: crossover frequency safety mute,
parametric EQ boost limits and automatic summing level. You can easily get
very bad sound and/or speaker damage if you are not careful.
When in doubt, choose “Advanced”.

Changing Project Levels of an existing Project: If you begin a Project at
one Project Level and wish to change to a higher Project Level, this can be
accomplished with “Project Settings”.

IMPORTANT: ONCE YOU MOVE A PROJECT INTO A HIGHER PROJECT
LEVEL, IT CANNOT BE RETURNED TO A LOWER PROJECT LEVEL. IF YOU
THINK YOU MIGHT NEED TO GO BACK, CREATE A COPY OF THE PROJECT
AND STORE IT IN YOUR PC, BEFORE CHANGING THE PROJECT LEVEL.

https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/224207528-TüN-Software-Overview


----------



## Phobos223

saltyone said:


> Reading the last few posts in this thread, aren't you guys talking about using the "expert tuning" in the DSP? There are three levels of tuning available in the TuN software. The "expert" option opens up a few areas that aren't meant to be used by novices. The warnings are just to ensure you understand that by using this level of control, you are running the risk of damaging your speakers...if you screw something up. The below is from JL's website;
> 
> *Project Level:*
> 
> Sometimes you need maximum flexibility and complexity,
> and sometimes you don’t. To address your particular Project with
> appropriate complexity, the TüN™ software offers three Project Level
> choices: Basic, Advanced or Expert.
> 
> *Basic:* offers a streamlined feature set with common sense safeguards
> designed for efficient system tuning. It is ideal for first time DSP users and
> time-sensitive projects. You will have access to the Input Mixer and Router,
> DRC Setup, Output Polarity, 10-band Graphic Equalizers, High-Pass and
> Low Pass Filters (12, 24 or 48 dB/octave, Linkwitz-Riley) and Level
> Trim controls.
> 
> *Advanced:* offers a full feature set with restrained safeguards to prevent
> accidental damage to the audio system. This is ideal for experienced DSP
> users looking to get full advantage of the TwK’s power, while avoiding
> certain pitfalls that can result in poor performance or speaker damage. You
> will be able to access all the Basic Level features listed above, plus summing
> polarity, fully parametric 10-band EQ’s and channel delays.
> 
> *Expert:* offers the complete feature set with no safeguards. This level is
> only for expert users who have no need for technical support. Additional
> crossover filter slopes and alignments are added with the following
> safeguards and constraints disabled: crossover frequency safety mute,
> parametric EQ boost limits and automatic summing level. You can easily get
> very bad sound and/or speaker damage if you are not careful.
> When in doubt, choose “Advanced”.
> 
> Changing Project Levels of an existing Project: If you begin a Project at
> one Project Level and wish to change to a higher Project Level, this can be
> accomplished with “Project Settings”.
> 
> IMPORTANT: ONCE YOU MOVE A PROJECT INTO A HIGHER PROJECT
> LEVEL, IT CANNOT BE RETURNED TO A LOWER PROJECT LEVEL. IF YOU
> THINK YOU MIGHT NEED TO GO BACK, CREATE A COPY OF THE PROJECT
> AND STORE IT IN YOUR PC, BEFORE CHANGING THE PROJECT LEVEL.
> 
> https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/224207528-TüN-Software-Overview



So the 3 levels of project went away with the new TUN 3.0. Basically we have advanced mode all the time now with some expert flair sprinkled around.


----------



## Jimvette

This will be my first car audio install and I have some strategy questions.

I have a VX800/8i for a 3-way front stage and a VX600/1i for dual 4ohm 10” subs. I have a very tight space and thought of a way to eliminate the very large RCA bundle completely on the VX800. 

I could run my analog Left & Right RCA’s from the aftermarket Kenwood into the VX600 Sub amp first. Set my input gains ounce and route the signal through the Pre L/R Equalizer bank thru the optical outputs to the VX800. I would then utilize all 8 eq’s on the VX800 to produce a Flat Response for all speakers T/M/MB & Subwoofer and send the Subwoofer back to the VX600 through the Optical output. In the VX600 I would sum the sub L&R signal and pass it through eq #1 with no cross-overs set because everything is set for a flat response in the VX800. I would use my main DRC-250 on the VX800 amp to control master volume and the sub volume on the optical sub output signal. I would use the presets for driver/center/passenger settings.

My main reason for this setup is two fold 1) I can eliminate the large bundle of rca’s on the VX800 which I don’t need and set the analog gain ounce in the vx600 and then stay digital through the transfer between amps and 2) my plan is to use the incoming analog signal in the VX600 going through the Pre-L/R linked eq bank as a tonal house curve preset Equalization setting. And I could use a second DRC on the VX600 amp to toggle between tonal presets. 

My question is can I set a tonality house curve on a signal going into the VX800 amp where all the speakers were set to flat essentially now coloring their output vs setting every speakers eq’d output to follow each house curve in the Vx800? This would give a huge advantage for trying different house curves without having to adjust every speakers eq’s for each curve and having a million presets for each position.

Will this work? My questions are:

1. Are there any issues with this method that could reduce the overall system loudness potential? I’ve seen posts about optical signals not being as loud as analog. Hopefully this will not reduce my sub output potential.
2. Could there be issues with center image tuning which is set on the VX800 when changing house curves on it’s input signal? or phase changes causing problems?

On the VX600 I would obviously have a flat preset with no crossovers or equalization on the Pre L/R eq to pass the signal to the VX800 for tuning of all the speakers for a flat response for each position preset. Once the VX800 is set, no further eq’ing will be performed and all the tonal eq’ing will be done in the VX600.


----------



## keep_hope_alive

Jimvette said:


> This will be my first car audio install and I have some strategy questions.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a VX800/8i for a 3-way front stage and a VX600/1i for dual 4ohm 10” subs. I have a very tight space and thought of a way to eliminate the very large RCA bundle completely on the VX800.
> 
> 
> 
> I could run my analog Left & Right RCA’s from the aftermarket Kenwood into the VX600 Sub amp first. Set my input gains ounce and route the signal through the Pre L/R Equalizer bank thru the optical outputs to the VX800. I would then utilize all 8 eq’s on the VX800 to produce a Flat Response for all speakers T/M/MB & Subwoofer and send the Subwoofer back to the VX600 through the Optical output. In the VX600 I would sum the sub L&R signal and pass it through eq #1 with no cross-overs set because everything is set for a flat response in the VX800. I would use my main DRC-250 on the VX800 amp to control master volume and the sub volume on the optical sub output signal. I would use the presets for driver/center/passenger settings.
> 
> 
> 
> My main reason for this setup is two fold 1) I can eliminate the large bundle of rca’s on the VX800 which I don’t need and set the analog gain ounce in the vx600 and then stay digital through the transfer between amps and 2) my plan is to use the incoming analog signal in the VX600 going through the Pre-L/R linked eq bank as a tonal house curve preset Equalization setting. And I could use a second DRC on the VX600 amp to toggle between tonal presets.
> 
> 
> 
> My question is can I set a tonality house curve on a signal going into the VX800 amp where all the speakers were set to flat essentially now coloring their output vs setting every speakers eq’d output to follow each house curve in the Vx800? This would give a huge advantage for trying different house curves without having to adjust every speakers eq’s for each curve and having a million presets for each position.
> 
> 
> 
> Will this work? My questions are:
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Are there any issues with this method that could reduce the overall system loudness potential? I’ve seen posts about optical signals not being as loud as analog. Hopefully this will not reduce my sub output potential.
> 
> 2. Could there be issues with center image tuning which is set on the VX800 when changing house curves on it’s input signal? or phase changes causing problems?
> 
> 
> 
> On the VX600 I would obviously have a flat preset with no crossovers or equalization on the Pre L/R eq to pass the signal to the VX800 for tuning of all the speakers for a flat response for each position preset. Once the VX800 is set, no further eq’ing will be performed and all the tonal eq’ing will be done in the VX600.


Checking on this...

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## keep_hope_alive

Jimvette said:


> This will be my first car audio install and I have some strategy questions.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a VX800/8i for a 3-way front stage and a VX600/1i for dual 4ohm 10” subs. I have a very tight space and thought of a way to eliminate the very large RCA bundle completely on the VX800.
> 
> 
> 
> I could run my analog Left & Right RCA’s from the aftermarket Kenwood into the VX600 Sub amp first. Set my input gains ounce and route the signal through the Pre L/R Equalizer bank thru the optical outputs to the VX800. I would then utilize all 8 eq’s on the VX800 to produce a Flat Response for all speakers T/M/MB & Subwoofer and send the Subwoofer back to the VX600 through the Optical output. In the VX600 I would sum the sub L&R signal and pass it through eq #1 with no cross-overs set because everything is set for a flat response in the VX800. I would use my main DRC-250 on the VX800 amp to control master volume and the sub volume on the optical sub output signal. I would use the presets for driver/center/passenger settings.
> 
> 
> 
> My main reason for this setup is two fold 1) I can eliminate the large bundle of rca’s on the VX800 which I don’t need and set the analog gain ounce in the vx600 and then stay digital through the transfer between amps and 2) my plan is to use the incoming analog signal in the VX600 going through the Pre-L/R linked eq bank as a tonal house curve preset Equalization setting. And I could use a second DRC on the VX600 amp to toggle between tonal presets.
> 
> 
> 
> My question is can I set a tonality house curve on a signal going into the VX800 amp where all the speakers were set to flat essentially now coloring their output vs setting every speakers eq’d output to follow each house curve in the Vx800? This would give a huge advantage for trying different house curves without having to adjust every speakers eq’s for each curve and having a million presets for each position.
> 
> 
> 
> Will this work? My questions are:
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Are there any issues with this method that could reduce the overall system loudness potential? I’ve seen posts about optical signals not being as loud as analog. Hopefully this will not reduce my sub output potential.
> 
> 2. Could there be issues with center image tuning which is set on the VX800 when changing house curves on it’s input signal? or phase changes causing problems?
> 
> 
> 
> On the VX600 I would obviously have a flat preset with no crossovers or equalization on the Pre L/R eq to pass the signal to the VX800 for tuning of all the speakers for a flat response for each position preset. Once the VX800 is set, no further eq’ing will be performed and all the tonal eq’ing will be done in the VX600.


I have answers and comments but will wait until i am at an actual keyboard later tonight.


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Jimvette

waiting with anticipation!!!


----------



## Huckleberry Sound

Greetings

The plan is to use 2 - VX800/8i, and 2-VX1000/1i. 

The question is, do I "have" to use the Network Hub, when using multiple VX units?

Can I - Take the optical input into the first VX unit-optical out, and VX unit - optical in. And keep going in and out all four units via the optical ins and out?

Doing this will get rid of the network hub.

NOW if I have to use the network hub, on Once the signal goes into the Network hub, can I use the optical outs in the network hub and go to each unit via optical? Or do I "have" to use the network wire to go from the network hub into each unit?

Thank you


----------



## Asdcreation

Huckleberry Sound said:


> Greetings
> 
> The plan is to use 2 - VX800/8i, and 2-VX1000/1i.
> 
> The question is, do I "have" to use the Network Hub, when using multiple VXi


Yes ,u need the vxi hub when using 2 or more vxi amps ;
What vehicle are you using it in ?that's a lot of channels


----------



## rob3980

My only knock on the vxi amps is they don’t have a center channel up mixer. I’m currently running 3 way c7s , 2 tw5s , vxi800/8, vxi1000/1 and it sounds great I just wish I could add a center and at that point I would add rears as well. Other then that after I had Randy Schwartz tune it for me I am more than happy with my little class D amps and selling my Mosconi zeros.


----------



## xlynoz

Actually you can do without the hub when using 2 VXI amps. You can use the RCA out from one amp to the other and still control most of the tuning in one TuN project. You can't do that with the digital connections though. I tune everything on my 800/8 and source that into my 1000/1. I only have to make level input and output changes on the 1000/1.


----------



## Huckleberry Sound

xlynoz said:


> Actually you can do without the hub when using 2 VXI amps. You can use the RCA out from one amp to the other and still control most of the tuning in one TuN project. You can't do that with the digital connections though. I tune everything on my 800/8 and source that into my 1000/1. I only have to make level input and output changes on the 1000/1.


Thank you I just got a response from a JL rep and said the same thing.

Here is my other question. Using 4 amps. The rep said you will need the Hub to keep it all balanced out. He said with only 2 amps, you can remove the hub and do like your saying.

Here is the other question.

Where does the remote get plugged in? at the amp? Correct?


----------



## xlynoz

Huckleberry Sound said:


> Thank you I just got a response from a JL rep and said the same thing.
> 
> Here is my other question. Using 4 amps. The rep said you will need the Hub to keep it all balanced out. He said with only 2 amps, you can remove the hub and do like your saying.
> 
> Here is the other question.
> 
> Where does the remote get plugged in? at the amp? Correct?


If doing just two amps, yes you will plug in the remote at the main amp where you will be performing the TuN settings. I believe it's the same thing when using the hub but you would need to confirm that since I don't use a hub.


----------



## Chicago Jeff

Anybody know an installer in Chicago that is an expert with these amps? I'm looking to replace a 5 channel Alpine with the VX1000/5i. I do not want to go to my regular guy or somebody that has not installed these before.
Thanks in advance.


----------



## SQscott

I have read through this entire thread but I may have forgot a few things!!

I hope someone can give me some good input on designing a system using these amps. My car is similar to Mssmith so I would love to hear your opinion too. I have a new 2017 Buick Lacrosse with the Bose Centerpoint 11 speaker system. I bought this car new with the intentions of building a descent SQ system. I will use the factory deck using Android auto using Tidal or Spotify premium for the source and build a stealth system. Car has 6.5s in all 4 doors, 3.5 center, tweeters in pillars, 6x9 woofers in rear deck and small speakers in each rear pillar.

Option 1: Use NavTV digital into vxi800 and leave rear doors on original amp and fade back when people are in rear seat.

Option 2: Run the high level speaker wires directly off the Bose amp into the JL so I can have Lt, Rt and center. If the Bose system does upmixing then I hate to defeat it with the NavTV and wonder if I could build a descent 2 seat system keeping the center and then have a different preset for when I am in the car by myself without the center.
Seems like that if I am not compromising much running off the high levels I could potentially have a better system with 2 people in the car and hopefully almost as good by myself. I have many more questions but this is my primary one. What difference or problems will I notice between high levels and Toslink?

I plan to run Morel Tempo ultra in front stock location with a good center or possibly move up to the Morel Ti Elate. Maybe no center based on your opinions. 75 to tweets bridged 200 to midbass. 75 to center, 75 not used. Use another amp around 1000w like a JL hd running into a single sealed quality 10 or 12. I read a couple conflicting post so I want to confirm I could use any mono amp running off of the 800i and do all the tuning through the 800i and also use DRC-205 to control the master volume of the 800i and mono amp simultaneously plus control the output of the sub amp by itself using the sub control of the drc.
Any input or recommendations is really appreciated!! Thanks in advance!


----------



## Jimvette

SQscott said:


> I plan to run Morel Tempo ultra in front stock location with a good center or possibly move up to the Morel Ti Elate. Maybe no center based on your opinions. 75 to tweets bridged 200 to midbass. 75 to center, 75 not used. Use another amp around 1000w like a JL hd running into a single sealed quality 10 or 12. I read a couple conflicting post so I want to confirm I could use any mono amp running off of the 800i and do all the tuning through the 800i and also use DRC-205 to control the master volume of the 800i and mono amp simultaneously plus control the output of the sub amp by itself using the sub control of the drc.
> Any input or recommendations is really appreciated!! Thanks in advance!


I can answer these questions since I use the Vxi800. Yes you can use any amp for the sub. You basically setup the sub channel in the Vxi800 on the pre-analog output channel and eq it before sending the signal to your sub amp. This allows you to eq everything within the Vxi DSP. I use the DRC-205 as my master volume and the sub knob for the sub trim on the pre-analog output channel going to your sub amp. I tuned everything with the HU volume set to approx 75% volume and that is not ever adjusted after that.

As far as the other questions, there are far better people on here than me that can answer those, I’m still a noobie!


----------



## Phobos223

SQscott said:


> I have read through this entire thread but I may have forgot a few things!!
> 
> I hope someone can give me some good input on designing a system using these amps. My car is similar to Mssmith so I would love to hear your opinion too. I have a new 2017 Buick Lacrosse with the Bose Centerpoint 11 speaker system. I bought this car new with the intentions of building a descent SQ system. I will use the factory deck using Android auto using Tidal or Spotify premium for the source and build a stealth system. Car has 6.5s in all 4 doors, 3.5 center, tweeters in pillars, 6x9 woofers in rear deck and small speakers in each rear pillar.
> 
> Option 1: Use NavTV digital into vxi800 and leave rear doors on original amp and fade back when people are in rear seat.
> 
> Option 2: Run the high level speaker wires directly off the Bose amp into the JL so I can have Lt, Rt and center. If the Bose system does upmixing then I hate to defeat it with the NavTV and wonder if I could build a descent 2 seat system keeping the center and then have a different preset for when I am in the car by myself without the center.
> Seems like that if I am not compromising much running off the high levels I could potentially have a better system with 2 people in the car and hopefully almost as good by myself. I have many more questions but this is my primary one. What difference or problems will I notice between high levels and Toslink?
> 
> I plan to run Morel Tempo ultra in front stock location with a good center or possibly move up to the Morel Ti Elate. Maybe no center based on your opinions. 75 to tweets bridged 200 to midbass. 75 to center, 75 not used. Use another amp around 1000w like a JL hd running into a single sealed quality 10 or 12. I read a couple conflicting post so I want to confirm I could use any mono amp running off of the 800i and do all the tuning through the 800i and also use DRC-205 to control the master volume of the 800i and mono amp simultaneously plus control the output of the sub amp by itself using the sub control of the drc.
> Any input or recommendations is really appreciated!! Thanks in advance!



I run the 1000/5i with a NavTV in a 2018 GMC Sierra Denali and it works awesome. NavTV is seamless and the optical goes straight to the amp. Keep in mind that the optical connection is attenuated a bit for some reason over analog (see this thread for details) but is still gets plenty loud and works awesome. I also use the DRC-205 mounted in my center console right where my hand naturally rests and it was probably the best decision I made because it is really great for fine tuning on the fly when listening to various songs.

As far as using multiple amp you can definitely do this. I have the vxi1000/5i driving a sub, my tweeters and my rears. I then have a separate focal amp bridged at 200x2 for the midbass in the front doors. I have the signal to focal amp processed by the VXi DSP and everything is flawless. Really nice setup and super compact as well. The only thing you have to get right is tuning the gain on the secondary amp to get the sound balanced, but once you do that it will rock. Everything controls smoothly with the DRC you cannot tell that I have multiple amps.


----------



## SQscott

Thanks to both of you for the info. I was pretty sure I could do that but wanted to make sure. 

Really curious about the difference in quality running the high levels into the vxi and retaining the center vs the NavTV. I haven't been able to figure out if the Bose system is even using upmixing if it isn't then obviously the NavTV would be better but if the inputs are even close it would be a very easy install since all the wiring already goes to the Bose amp in the trunk and the battery is in the trunk too. At least it would be any easy first step until I could eventually run new wire to the front.


----------



## Phobos223

SQscott said:


> Thanks to both of you for the info. I was pretty sure I could do that but wanted to make sure.
> 
> Really curious about the difference in quality running the high levels into the vxi and retaining the center vs the NavTV. I haven't been able to figure out if the Bose system is even using upmixing if it isn't then obviously the NavTV would be better but if the inputs are even close it would be a very easy install since all the wiring already goes to the Bose amp in the trunk and the battery is in the trunk too. At least it would be any easy first step until I could eventually run new wire to the front.



Meant to answer your other question about optical vs analog earlier. The Toslink signal is crystal clear, very, very nice, but definitely does not play as loud as the analog for some reason. Still ridiculous loud but just throwing that out there.

I recently bought a nice USB DAC to connect my phone directly to the amp. and tried it with a balanced output analog cable and it is unreal how much louder it can get. Louder than I would ever play it but its cool to have that option.

As far as your center channel concerns go... do you really need it?? Unless you are watching movies from the driver seat I dont think it would be necessary. I'm sure there are guys on this fourm that know a lot more about this than I, but I dont really see the point especially once you have your SQ setup properly you will have a rock solid center image anyway.

I am running AF GB15 + GB60 in the front, in this massive crew cab truck and once I got everything calibrated and tuned it sounds so friggin good. You close your eyes and the sound literally sounds like it is coming from the center of the windshield. In my use case the center speaker would be worthless and/or counter productive I think.


Another thing to add is that I made tunes for the passenger seat and a more balanced tune as well, easily configured in the VXi via TUN and you can switch on the fly with the DRC205 based on whos riding in the car


----------



## SQscott

Phobos223 said:


> Meant to answer your other question about optical vs analog earlier. The Toslink signal is crystal clear, very, very nice, but definitely does not play as loud as the analog for some reason. Still ridiculous loud but just throwing that out there.
> 
> I recently bought a nice USB DAC to connect my phone directly to the amp. and tried it with a balanced output analog cable and it is unreal how much louder it can get. Louder than I would ever play it but its cool to have that option.
> 
> As far as your center channel concerns go... do you really need it?? Unless you are watching movies from the driver seat I dont think it would be necessary. I'm sure there are guys on this fourm that know a lot more about this than I, but I dont really see the point especially once you have your SQ setup properly you will have a rock solid center image anyway.
> 
> I am running AF GB15 + GB60 in the front, in this massive crew cab truck and once I got everything calibrated and tuned it sounds so friggin good. You close your eyes and the sound literally sounds like it is coming from the center of the windshield. In my use case the center speaker would be worthless and/or counter productive I think.
> 
> 
> Another thing to add is that I made tunes for the passenger seat and a more balanced tune as well, easily configured in the VXi via TUN and you can switch on the fly with the DRC205 based on whos riding in the car


Thanks again!
Yeah, I read about it being quieter, hopefully not so quite you couldn't do an occasional loud demo to someone. Most of the time I would be fine with it.

But what if I could just run the high levels off the Bose amp!!! Wish I could do a side by side comparison. I am really hoping someone who has done both will chime in. That would save me some work plus save me from buying the NavTV. Does the bose system even use upmixing is another important factor.


----------



## Phobos223

SQscott said:


> Thanks again!
> Yeah, I read about it being quieter, hopefully not so quite you couldn't do an occasional loud demo to someone. Most of the time I would be fine with it.
> 
> But what if I could just run the high levels off the Bose amp!!! Wish I could do a side by side comparison. I am really hoping someone who has done both will chime in. That would save me some work plus save me from buying the NavTV. Does the bose system even use upmixing is another important factor.


Few more details - Through the Toslink it will get plenty loud, louder than you will ever play it most likely. In my truck, typically I just have the DRC205 about half way up and use the head unit controls as normal and its plenty loud. But if I really wanna jam out I turn the head unit to max and use the DRC to fine tune until my ears say NO MORE!!

Main advantage of the NavTv is that is literally just clicks in and it maintains everything just like stock and no tones or phone are amplified, everything is perfectly balanced just like stock.

One thing to note about the bose amp is there is some signal processing going on in there, so if you just grab those inputs there may be some factory crossover points set. I'm sure it is possible with the right gear, but from the research I did you are talking about spending like $200-300 to do a quality setup that way (quality as in handling the chimes and such), or of just a a couple bills more you can get the NavTv and just plug, play and be done with it. Also when you go to sell the car you just unplug it and right back to stock....


One thing to note is that I checked my NavTv (M650-GM) and it does have the CENTER analog output, so if you just have to have that for some reason you can do it with the navTV analog outputs. The Toslink is just 2 channel stereo though. If you know how you want to mix it you could probably configure that in TUN the way you want it. For those details you will have to ask some of the DSP Ninjas around here


----------



## SQscott

I noticed it had the center but it also said no time alignment so that is really basically what I am trying to figure out. If all the Bose outputs are time aligned and upmixed for center channel and I can run that straight into the high level inputs of the VX800/8I and then just eq the new speakers for a good response then I may be golden and have a better 2 SEAT system for less money even though I want to spend more if it would be worth it. The NavTV will just give me a perfect flat signal and eliminate everything else. If Bose doesn't do upmixing then I think everything might be able to be replicated using the center and the NavTV.


----------



## Phobos223

SQscott said:


> I noticed it had the center but it also said no time alignment so that is really basically what I am trying to figure out. If all the Bose outputs are time aligned and upmixed for center channel and I can run that straight into the high level inputs of the VX800/8I and then just eq the new speakers for a good response then I may be golden and have a better 2 SEAT system for less money even though I want to spend more if it would be worth it. The NavTV will just give me a perfect flat signal and eliminate everything else. If Bose doesn't do upmixing then I think everything might be able to be replicated using the center and the NavTV.


For the analog outputs on the NavTV you can use factory time alignment but for driver seat only via a dip switch.

You may be better just going 2 channel Toslink to the VXi, then working with the ninjas here to come up with the best DSP recipe for your center channel. I'm sure it can be done :snacks:


----------



## msmith

Phobos223 said:


> For the analog outputs on the NavTV you can use factory time alignment but for driver seat only via a dip switch.
> 
> You may be better just going 2 channel Toslink to the VXi, then working with the ninjas here to come up with the best DSP recipe for your center channel. I'm sure it can be done :snacks:


I use a NAV TV GM650 interface in my own car (Cadillac CT6). The NAV TV interface's center analog output is a simple L+R. It is not upmixed in any way. I am using the interface's Toslink optical output straight into my VX800/8i... then the optical output from that amp to the VX1000/1i sub amp. Very clean, very simple with minimal wiring clutter. I do all the time correction in the VXi amps.

If you want to run the center speaker you can do a L+R sum using the input mixer in the TuN software.

If you want, you can run both digital and analog inputs into the VXi and use preset switching to switch between them. The NAV TV interface allows both outputs to operate concurrently.


----------



## SQscott

Thank you msmith. I guess it is probably safe to assume you have the best setup with the NavTV. I probably should start a new thread just trying to find out if the factory Bose even uses upmixing to the center channel. If it doesn't then there would be no reason to just run the high levels off the Bose into the VXI amp which is really what I am trying to figure out. Are you aware of any systems simular to yours except using the high level speaker wires into the amp instead of the toslink? Also do you really utilize the center channel or do you feel like your system would be about the same without it? Another option for me for stage one of my build would be to use NavTV into vx800 75x4 into front tweets and 6.5s in doors and 200x2 into factory 6x9 woofers in rear deck. There would be no sub but I feel if I find the right 6x9 woofers on 200w that it could be enough bass. To make things simple I am really just trying to figure out the best way to utilize the center channel using a vxi amp or if I even want the center channel. Thanks again!!!


----------



## SQscott

msmith said:


> If you want, you can run both digital and analog inputs into the VXi and use preset switching to switch between them. The NAV TV interface allows both outputs to operate concurrently.


Msmith, I understand that NavTV allows digital and analog to be output at the same time but I just thought about something else and you may be interested in this too.

So I did figure out that Bose Centerpoint does use upmixing and you are bypassing this on your Cadillac which I think could be very usefull if you want to utilize the center channel to its full potential..

Now when you said I could switch between analog and digital I assume you meant the digital and analog rca inputs from the NavTV. Then I see no reason why I couldn't switch from digital toslink from the NavTV to the high level outputs from the factory bose amp into the vxi800. I am starting to think that for the ultimate 1 seat tune I would use 1 tune on the tun sofrware that uses the digital from the NavTV and then have a 2nd tune on the tun software that uses the high level speaker wires from the Bose amp to retain all the factory upmixing and create the best 2 seat tune.


----------



## Phobos223

SQscott said:


> Msmith, I understand that NavTV allows digital and analog to be output at the same time but I just thought about something else and you may be interested in this too.
> 
> So I did figure out that Bose Centerpoint does use upmixing and you are bypassing this on your Cadillac which I think could be very usefull if you want to utilize the center channel to its full potential..
> 
> Now when you said I could switch between analog and digital I assume you meant the digital and analog rca inputs from the NavTV. Then I see no reason why I couldn't switch from digital toslink from the NavTV to the high level outputs from the factory bose amp into the vxi800. I am starting to think that for the ultimate 1 seat tune I would use 1 tune on the tun sofrware that uses the digital from the NavTV and then have a 2nd tune on the tun software that uses the high level speaker wires from the Bose amp to retain all the factory upmixing and create the best 2 seat tune.



You can absolutely do this. I have a preset on mine that switches to analog coming from a USB DAC that is a passenger seat tune specifically for when I want to show my system to a friend. You could easily tap the wires coming from the bose amp to accomplish what you want. I would suggest buying a separate harness that way you can just disconnect the factory harness and mod the new one to your heart content without having to cut anything. That way you can return the car to stock no problem when you go to trade it in or sell it.

This harness kit I got from Crutchfield allowed me to make my own harness for my GM BOSE system. This allowed me to directly connect the VXi to the factory speakers without any cuts or splicing. You may be able to get the parts to make your own for cheaper, but for $35 this is pretty easy

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541APHGM02/PAC-APH-GM02-AmpPro-Speaker-Connection-Harness.html


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## SQscott

Phobos223 said:


> You can absolutely do this. I have a preset on mine that switches to analog coming from a USB DAC that is a passenger seat tune specifically for when I want to show my system to a friend. You could easily tap the wires coming from the bose amp to accomplish what you want. I would suggest buying a separate harness that way you can just disconnect the factory harness and mod the new one to your heart content without having to cut anything. That way you can return the car to stock no problem when you go to trade it in or sell it.
> 
> This harness kit I got from Crutchfield allowed me to make my own harness for my GM BOSE system. This allowed me to directly connect the VXi to the factory speakers without any cuts or splicing. You may be able to get the parts to make your own for cheaper, but for $35 this is pretty easy
> 
> https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541APHGM02/PAC-APH-GM02-AmpPro-Speaker-Connection-Harness.html


Haha, I actually bought that exact harness from Crutchfield yesterday. 

Couldn't you have also built a tune for the passenger using your Factory radio and NavTv? What are you gaining with the Dac? Does it have upmixing to the center?


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## Phobos223

SQscott said:


> Haha, I actually bought that exact harness from Crutchfield yesterday.
> 
> Couldn't you have also built a tune for the passenger using your Factory radio and NavTv? What are you gaining with the Dac? Does it have upmixing to the center?


Oh yes definitely can do that, I just wanted to make 100% sure that you knew that you can have different profiles doing different tunes using whatever inputs you want. You might actually be able to make a tune with both digital and analog inputs being mixed in at the same time. You can download the TUN software and actually simulate this if you want to for free. Seems like it should be possible on the routing configuration.

I do have a passenger tune coming directly from the NavTV as well for convenience sake, but the reason I did the DAC tune for the passenger tune is because I can use the balanced analog output on the DAC to the balanced analog input on the VXi and it is crazy loud compared to the to Toslink. which is what you want for giving a demo to a friend that is asking why you spent so much on your system  The purists will ding me that there is an additional DAC conversion taking place for the DSP but honestly it sounds so good I dont notice. I just like the extra headroom it gives me when I really want to push my speakers as hard as they can go.

The DAC really is overkill for this (could have just used a headphone to RCA cable), but I had it handy and only use it when travelling so I made it so I can just hook it into the VXI really easy and remove it when I want to use it for headphones or something. All the cables are run in the truck I just slide it into place and connect 2 cables and its ready to go.

Glad you found that harness. It is absolutely perfect for this job. Before I got that one I bought one that wasn't even as good form some bums on the west coast, whom I shall not name, for triple the price and I just returned it.

I have been meaning to put together a build log of all this stuff but just haven't ever got around to it!

What speakers did you decide on?


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## Phobos223

Couple version of the harness I rigged to the VXi cables


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## SQscott

Thanks again for the info. I haven't decided completely on which speakers. Still trying to figure all this stuff out.


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## DC100

Hi all first time post. Let me start by saying these amps are very nice, but I have a few questions. I guess I should start off by saying this is the first all digital amp I've ever owned and it's giving me some frustrations. 

1. I feel absolutely stupid for having to ask this one, but it is what it is. Anyway, how the heck do I set the gain? As in, where the hell is it located at in the Tun software? I see all kinds of +db options but which one is the actual gain? 

2. I followed a 4 or 5 step thread on audiofrog forum to set time alignment and crossovers. Oh and I owe that guy (Andy I think) a big thanks for those step by step posts. However, I had to do one thing he was adamant about not doing and that's reverse polarity on one of my door woofers in order to center everything up front. So I'm assuming something is wrong in my install because everything else he stated seem to work perfectly?

3. Will leaving Q factor at default (1.41) cause me to miss a big tweeking option? I'm so confused about Q and how to set it. I also have other annoying things I'm trying to figure out so adding this one right now would just add to the confusion.

4. My volume seems low even though I'm pushing 2100 watts RMS. it literally seems lower than stock, but with much better clarity. Not sure what gives there? My phase all seems good so maybe it's just because the clarity is so much better. Or maybe someone can help me with a direction to go for troubleshooting?

I do also have a Fix 86 ahead of the VXI and that thing gives a nasty hiss. I had to turn down input voltage on the VXI to 2 just to get rid of it. I'm wondering if that's hurting volume?


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## Alex92

I can’t say for certain if it was somewhere back along this thread or dumb luck when googling a while back. Can’t seem to find what I’m after now, has anyone here bumped up the output trim levels when using a toslink source? I feel like I remember once reading that allegedly they can be bumped up to +12db. It’s a little annoying that you go digital to avoid input gain matching and then face the conundrum of “**** I avoided that but they’ve thrown output trim in the mix now”


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## lv_v

Alex92 said:


> I can’t say for certain if it was somewhere back along this thread or dumb luck when googling a while back. Can’t seem to find what I’m after now, has anyone here bumped up the output trim levels when using a toslink source? I feel like I remember once reading that allegedly they can be bumped up to +12db. It’s a little annoying that you go digital to avoid input gain matching and then face the conundrum of “**** I avoided that but they’ve thrown output trim in the mix now”
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You need to contact JL support direct. Going by memory: there's an advanced mode that you can access, but they don't advertise it because it's easy to F things up if you're not experienced.


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## LumbermanSVO

Alex92 said:


> I can’t say for certain if it was somewhere back along this thread or dumb luck when googling a while back. Can’t seem to find what I’m after now, has anyone here bumped up the output trim levels when using a toslink source? I feel like I remember once reading that allegedly they can be bumped up to +12db. It’s a little annoying that you go digital to avoid input gain matching and then face the conundrum of “**** I avoided that but they’ve thrown output trim in the mix now”
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Post 582 of this thread has info about it. You should be able to turn off error checking and then be able to boost the TOSLINK input some.


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## SQscott

I have a VX800/8i. I want to bridge 4 channels to run 200w x 2 to Audiofrog GB60 4ohm speakers. 2 channels running 75w x 2 to the GB10 4 ohm tweeters. Can I bridge the remaining 2 channels to run an 8 ohm 4" center channel like the Scan 10f? Since it is 8 ohm I think it would only be about 100w. So is it possible to configure the amp like this and does this sound like a good idea? Thanks.


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## Alex92

SQscott said:


> I have a VX800/8i. I want to bridge 4 channels to run 200w x 2 to Audiofrog GB60 4ohm speakers. 2 channels running 75w x 2 to the GB10 4 ohm tweeters. Can I bridge the remaining 2 channels to run an 8 ohm 4" center channel like the Scan 10f? Since it is 8 ohm I think it would only be about 100w. So is it possible to configure the amp like this and does this sound like a good idea? Thanks.


I see no reason that wouldn’t work, I assume bridged 8 ohm would give you a 75 watt channel. Bear in mind if you did do that the centre channel will essentially be a mono channel unless you’ve got a source with a proper centre you can route to it through the dsp.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## SQscott

Thanks. Yes I have Bose Centerpoint and plan on running the high levels from the Bose amp into the VXI to retain the center channel upmixing.


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## s0undgarden

Does the vx600/6i have an 8-channel dsp? Would I be able to use it for a 3-way system + sub assuming I have another amp for the sub? Or would the other amp also have to be a vxi?


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## SQscott

s0undgarden said:


> Does the vx600/6i have an 8-channel dsp? Would I be able to use it for a 3-way system + sub assuming I have another amp for the sub? Or would the other amp also have to be a vxi?


 Not sure about the 600 but I am sure it is probably the same as the 800 which has 2 extra channels that you can run to any amp for the subs and is what I am going to do with the 800.

IMO the 800 is a much better choice because you can bridge 4 channels for 200x2 going to the mid bass. So it is essentially a 6 channel with 2 of the channels being more powerful.


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## ezmason

My tweets are [email protected] same as mids and the 8" midbass are 4ohm so i'll be running two 1000/5i's per side bridging the tweets and mids and using the sub channels for midbass with a bit of headroom


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## Midway

While I like the ability to bridge channels when you need more to drive power hungry drivers, you still burn 2 DSP channels for each bridged channel. I added a second, non Vxi amp and needed to run my rear door speakers off the head unit. Not a big deal as I do have some DSP control in my Kenwood, have the volume lower, don't really need much from them but would have preferred to control them from the JL.


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## ezmason

I as well have a separate amp for refill and two jl 600 slash running 4 sealed 8w7's behind rear seat. Yes im running dyn's 362 drivers up front actve & 242 rear fill passive


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## ezmason

I think that will be my next purchase are those esotar 430's like you have


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## bigemike

got a question. can the dsp on the vx1000/51 control the output of its analog out, from my reading, I could add rear door speakers off of a less expensive amp and run it off the output of the vx amp. That would save me from buying a hub and another vx amp correct?


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## ominous

bigemike said:


> got a question. can the dsp on the vx1000/51 control the output of its analog out, from my reading, I could add rear door speakers off of a less expensive amp and run it off the output of the vx amp. That would save me from buying a hub and another vx amp correct?


Correct. The 1000/5 is basically a 7 channel DSP (5 are amplified, 2 are RCA).


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## Phobos223

bigemike said:


> got a question. can the dsp on the vx1000/51 control the output of its analog out, from my reading, I could add rear door speakers off of a less expensive amp and run it off the output of the vx amp. That would save me from buying a hub and another vx amp correct?


You can absolutely do this. I have this exact setup going in my truck


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## bigemike

gives me some room if I want to add a 3way front or rear channel setup later on, good to know


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## farfromovin

I've read this entire thread, good stuff in here. I thought I read it but want to verify- If I want to use 2 VXi's with no hub and use all the DSP through the first amp, I HAVE to use analog RCA's between the two amps?


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## Jimvette

farfromovin said:


> I've read this entire thread, good stuff in here. I thought I read it but want to verify- If I want to use 2 VXi's with no hub and use all the DSP through the first amp, I HAVE to use analog RCA's between the two amps?


That is correct - maybe. I use a 6 channel Vxi for my front stage and also use the analog output DSP for the subwoofer tuning before sending it to subwoofer amp. If your second VXi amp is multi-channel you will not be able to tune all of those channels through a connection to your first amp. You would have to disconnect from the first amp and connect to the second amp. Or you could use a hub which enables you to connect to one amp and have access to multiple downstream amps for tuning purposes. One work around I use is I connect via laptop to my main front stage amp for tuning and use the Mobile app to connect to the sub amp at the same time.


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## farfromovin

Thanks Jimvette, I will be using a VX800/8i and VX1000/1i. From a signal chain standpoint, I thought it would be better to use TOSLINK out of the 8ch and into the mono amp but it doesn't look like we can do that and retain DSP control of the digital out. RCA's it is!


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## Jimvette

farfromovin said:


> Thanks Jimvette, I will be using a VX800/8i and VX1000/1i. From a signal chain standpoint, I thought it would be better to use TOSLINK out of the 8ch and into the mono amp but it doesn't look like we can do that and retain DSP control of the digital out. RCA's it is!


That is correct! I have the VX800/8i and the VX600/1i and it works great using the RCA!


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## SQscott

farfromovin said:


> Thanks Jimvette, I will be using a VX800/8i and VX1000/1i. From a signal chain standpoint, I thought it would be better to use TOSLINK out of the 8ch and into the mono amp but it doesn't look like we can do that and retain DSP control of the digital out. RCA's it is!


I am doing the same as well. I like the 800 better than the 600 for a 3-way because you can bridge 4 channels for more power to the midbass speakers. The vxi basically have 2 extra channels of dsp using rca outputs so you can control any 2 or 1 channel amp from it. Unless you just really want them to match the second amp can be anything. Mine will not be visible so I selected an amp with more power than the vxi1000 that was about 1/3 the price. That vxi1000 is pretty expensive for a sub amp because it has many features like the dsp that you will not use if connected to a vxi800.


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## SQscott

I have a question about bridging the vx800/8i. Can I run channels 1&2 to 2 4ohm tweeters and channels 3&4 bridged to a single 8 ohm center channel speaker. 5/6 and 7/8 will be bridged to the 2 4ohm midbass speakers. 
If I run a 4 ohm center I am sure 1 channel would probably be sufficient and just leave 1 channel unused but I am looking at running a Scanspeak 10f 8ohm and think that since 8 ohm will only use about 1/2 the power that I might as well bridge the 2 channels if possible. So my 2 questions are, will the amp do this and does this sound like a good idea? Thanks!


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## MrGreen83

SQscott said:


> I am doing the same as well. I like the 800 better than the 600 for a 3-way because you can bridge 4 channels for more power to the midbass speakers. The vxi basically have 2 extra channels of dsp using rca outputs so you can control any 2 or 1 channel amp from it. Unless you just really want them to match the second amp can be anything. Mine will not be visible so I selected an amp with more power than the vxi1000 that was about 1/3 the price. That vxi1000 is pretty expensive for a sub amp because it has many features like the dsp that you will not use if connected to a vxi800.


I was battling a long time about doing 3 amps. 

VX600/6i on tweets, midrange, rears
VX600/2i on midbass
VX1000/1i on subs. 

Basically get that same power on midbass without bridging. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## farfromovin

I recently got a VX800/8i and a VX1000/1i and I gotta say I was surprised at how heavy these guys are. They just scream density to me when I pick one up. Anyway, these will be replacing 2 HD600/4’s and 3 HD750/1’s and an Audiocontrol DM-810 to run 3 ways with rear fill and 3 10’s. Yes, I’m losing a lot of power, but 5 amps is just a nightmare wiring-wise! Wanted something simple, clean, and effective and I think this will fit the bill.


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## fatstrat

farfromovin said:


> I recently got a VX800/8i and a VX1000/1i and I gotta say I was surprised at how heavy these guys are. They just scream density to me when I pick one up. Anyway, these will be replacing 2 HD600/4’s and 3 HD750/1’s and an Audiocontrol DM-810 to run 3 ways with rear fill and 3 10’s. Yes, I’m losing a lot of power, but 5 amps is just a nightmare wiring-wise! Wanted something simple, clean, and effective and I think this will fit the bill.


I think you will be happy with your decision.


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## ezmason

I was powering the front stage with vxi800 and my installer replaced it with 2 vxi1000/5i's per side. Bridging 1&2 for tweets,3&4 for mids & sub channel for 8" midbass 400 wrms same on both sides. Seems like i lost clarity not as clean as it was with the 800. Everything handles the power well just seems like bridging the mids & tweets dulls the signal. Any input would be great.


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## farfromovin

Even if I have a 8i feeding a 1i with RCA’s, I’ll still need to usb into the mono amp to set initial gain correct? Little unclear how that part works. I have my amps installed, just haven’t powered anything up yet as I’m working on mounting the front stage speakers and have to build a new sub box first.

Edit- I’m pretty sure the input gain (as well as output) needs set 1 time on the second VXi. Got the system powered up, so far just with rear fill coax’s and ZR800’s in my doors, gotta fab the sails for my mids/highs. Digging it though. Super cool to pull up Tun on the iPad and look at ambient temp, the ps temp, and system voltage.


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## accdealer

msmith said:


> The interior looks basically stock. I have a C7-650cw in the door, a C7-350cm in the dash and a C7-100ct tweeter in the pillar. There is also a C7-350cm in the center dash location. The subwoofer is one of our marine infinite-baffle 10-inch woofers (M10IB5) bolted to the factory subwoofer hole in the rear deck, with an adaptor. All of these are factory locations, and the speakers are behind factory grilles.
> 
> Rear speakers are the stock Bose speakers.
> 
> A VX800/8i runs all the speakers, except for the subwoofer. Six channels drive the C7 3-way systems (left and right), one channel runs the center speaker and the remaining channel drives the rear door speakers in mono. A VX1000/1i runs the subwoofer (a bit of overkill, really).
> 
> The only other box in the car is a NavTV GM650 MOST interface, which provides a digital optical audio signal to the VXi amplifiers.
> 
> Here is a picture of the amps and the sub in the trunk. Very simple.
> 
> IMG_8575.JPG
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


nice install, but that caddy is a far cry from a corrado. i’m a little disappointed not to see something german in your stable😀


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## Whatyonameis

I have an Audison Bit 10 and XDv2 700/5. I am upgrading amp and originally gonna go with the HD 900/5 but for a few hundred more I could get the VXI 1000/5 and sell the Audison DSP. Should I spend the extra $ for the VXI or is the HD a better amp with an already installed Audison DSP. Have to make a decision by Thursday!


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## rton20s

Whatyonameis said:


> I have an Audison Bit 10 and XDv2 700/5. I am upgrading amp and originally gonna go with the HD 900/5 but for a few hundred more I could get the VXI 1000/5 and sell the Audison DSP. Should I spend the extra $ for the VXI or is the HD a better amp with an already installed Audison DSP. Have to make a decision by Thursday!


I would personally sell the current Audison Bit10 and XDv2 and run the VXi amp.


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## Fu3l3r

Hey guys new here. I've read this entire thread and I wanted to ask something. I have a 2020 f250 crew cab with the B&O premium sound. I'm planning on using a nav tv Zen a2b interface to tie into the stock system. For driver's I'm looking at c7 3 way set up up front and for the rear doors I have the option to use a c5 components of c5 coaxials. For woofers I'm going to be running 2 12TW3 woofers downfiring under the rear seat. I recently acquired a vxi 1000/5 and a vxi 1000/1. I'm not seeing how I would hook this up and make it work with these 2 amps. Would it be better to go with a 800/8 and a 1000/1 or 2 1000/5? Again any help would be appreciated


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## Fu3l3r

Can c7 midbass Woofer be run with the subwoofer output of the vxi1000/5?


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## Fu3l3r




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## Fu3l3r




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## Fu3l3r




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## farfromovin

Which amps you go with, 2x5 ch and a mono?


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## MrGreen83

Fu3l3r said:


> View attachment 273254


Why did u change the setup from the modeled photo


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Fu3l3r

farfromovin said:


> Which amps you go with, 2x5 ch and a mono?


Yes 2 1000/5 and 1 1000/1


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## Fu3l3r

MrGreen83 said:


> Why did u change the setup from the modeled photo
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I couldn't fit the vxi hub and the Zen interface next to each other because then the left amp would hit the window regulator for the rear window. I'll make that adjustment in the beauty panel


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## farfromovin

Fu3l3r said:


> Yes 2 1000/5 and 1 1000/1


That’s a lotta power for mids/highs. You tuning it yourself? My 8ch is plenty power for my c7’s (zr800 mid bass). I reckon you’ll be turning down the midbass considerably with that 400w going to them. Perfect!


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## Fu3l3r

farfromovin said:


> That’s a lotta power for mids/highs. You tuning it yourself? My 8ch is plenty power for my c7’s (zr800 mid bass). I reckon you’ll be turning down the midbass considerably with that 400w going to them. Perfect!


yes sir, the only reason im running these 2 1000/5s per side is because i already had them. i realize the 800/8 is the proper amplifier to run this setup with. i will attempt to tune it myself otherwise i will take it over to my friends at provost motorsport in woodland CA to help me out. and man i am jealous of your zr800 never got to hear one of those drivers


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## farfromovin

Fu3l3r said:


> yes sir, the only reason im running these 2 1000/5s per side is because i already had them. i realize the 800/8 is the proper amplifier to run this setup with. i will attempt to tune it myself otherwise i will take it over to my friends at provost motorsport in woodland CA to help me out. and man i am jealous of your zr800 never got to hear one of those drivers


I was actually gonna make some adapters next week and see how my c7-650’s do in place of. The 8’s hammer though. They played well on just 75w but I recently took my rear channels off (c-2x) and bridges them. Coming from 5 1/4” mids on my previous system, it just puts a smile on my face when those 8’s are thumping away! I’d like to see JL make a c7-850cw or even a c7-1050cw lol.

I just bring up the tuning cause there was one guy who upgraded from an 8ch to dual 5ch’s and he said the sound quality was worse. That makes zero sense to me, I think it had to be in the tuning. There’s a lot going on with all the levels alone with that setup but with the VXi hub I imagine it’ll be quite manageable.


----------



## Fu3l3r

farfromovin said:


> I was actually gonna make some adapters next week and see how my c7-650’s do in place of. The 8’s hammer though. They played well on just 75w but I recently took my rear channels off (c-2x) and bridges them. Coming from 5 1/4” mids on my previous system, it just puts a smile on my face when those 8’s are thumping away! I’d like to see JL make a c7-850cw or even a c7-1050cw lol.
> 
> I just bring up the tuning cause there was one guy who upgraded from an 8ch to dual 5ch’s and he said the sound quality was worse. That makes zero sense to me, I think it had to be in the tuning. There’s a lot going on with all the levels alone with that setup but with the VXi hub I imagine it’ll be quite manageable.


i emailed jl audio support with the question as to how to run my system and route all the channels on the tun software. the gentleman was super nice and sent me the tun files for each amp with the presets already setup up the way i told him i wanted my system.


----------



## vactor

just wanted to let everyone know that my 800/8 is still kicking total ass in my tiny car after almost 2 years. still sounds great and the multiple tunes from the click of the remote knob are nice when i have a passenger. would still love lower profile connectors, but the amp and software are second to none (easy to use and an amazing amount and types of filters etc.) running Dynaudio tweeters, audiofrog 4 inch mids and illusion audio carbon 8's in the doors bridged off of 4 channels. works great and clean in the convertible. i am actually looking to get another car so i can put another system in there with 2 or 3 vxi amps!


----------



## ExoTicLeveL

These little amps are powerhorses for sure! Currently will using the VXI 1000.1 in my build to power a JLw7 10


----------



## JCsAudio

I love my JL Vxi800/8i and I feel the SQ part of it is top notch but even better is the bluetooth with iPad app and elimination of all the wire that would have been needed with separate DSP and amp.


----------



## Wikidzon

Hello everyone I'm brand new to the site, I have been reading all the posst in this section and I can see there is a great deal of knowledge around here. I have a question, I currently have the vxi 600.1 its powering a w6v3 12in in the HO box. I got a great deal on a w7 12 in on black Friday. I am definitely going to stick with jl for the amp but I am having trouble picking out an amp and I do want to add more bass to my setup. I have been looking at 2amps the vxi 1000.1 and the hd 1200, the problem I have with the vxi is at 3 ohms it is only rated at 800 watts which is only 200 watts more than I currently have with the vxi600.1 and the w6v3 12. I'm wondering if it will give me the output I want or should i just get the tryed and true hd1200 which should give an audiable boost to the bass in my truck with the new w7? If anyone has any suggestions on which amp I should buy for the w7 it would be greatly appreciated. I have looked at the hd750 but I would like the added power of the other 2 amps I mentioned for future proofing the system.

Thank you all for your time,
Josh


----------



## tock

msmith said:


> Next year you can expect versions of the monoblock models with a stripped down feature set. Already in the works.


@msmith hate to call this out two years later but are the stripped down monoblocks still on the table? 

And also I just read all 34 pages of this thread today (sorry bossman), and it's confirmed my hunch that a VX1000/5i is indeed what I want to build my system around. A big part of that I attribute to your support to everyone here.


----------



## ezmason

If i was planing to add another 12w7 down the road the HD1200 would be my choice.


----------



## msmith

tock said:


> @msmith hate to call this out two years later but are the stripped down monoblocks still on the table?
> 
> And also I just read all 34 pages of this thread today (sorry bossman), and it's confirmed my hunch that a VX1000/5i is indeed what I want to build my system around. A big part of that I attribute to your support to everyone here.


Yes, they are... they were delayed due to all the fun stuff in 2020, but we are reigniting the project this year.


----------



## Huckleberry Sound

I have a VXi network hub for sale if anyone needs one...









SOLD


ITEM BRAND & MODEL #: JL Audio Network Hub CONDITION: Used - 9 PRICE: $100.00 SHIPPING: Included PAYPAL: Included ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: (specs / features) VXi-HUB includes the following features: JLid-COMM Connections: 1 Master Input / 5 Slave Outputs / 1 Accessory Port Optical Audio...




www.diymobileaudio.com


----------



## Lylefk

Aloha,

Can anyone confirm that I won’t need a fix 82 to get a clean input from a 2021 Tacoma factory head unit? It’s the standard stereo, not the premium jbl offering. Haven’t taken delivery yet and my local dealership doesn’t have any, so I can’t play with it.

The only thing I note of potential concern in the manual is an “Automatic Sound Levelizer”, a speed based adjustment that can be turned off. No mention of time alignment or eq functions that I see. Seems ok to me.

Thanks a lot, appreciate it!


----------



## BJG

I also heard they were discontinuing the Slash series.. WTF JL!? 😭


----------



## rton20s

Lylefk said:


> Aloha,
> 
> Can anyone confirm that I won’t need a fix 82 to get a clean input from a 2021 Tacoma factory head unit? It’s the standard stereo, not the premium jbl offering. Haven’t taken delivery yet and my local dealership doesn’t have any, so I can’t play with it.
> 
> The only thing I note of potential concern in the manual is an “Automatic Sound Levelizer”, a speed based adjustment that can be turned off. No mention of time alignment or eq functions that I see. Seems ok to me.
> 
> Thanks a lot, appreciate it!


I have a '21 Tacoma myself. The standard audio system is still configured with an all-pass filter on the mids around 315Hz. While there isn't an option to create an all-pass filter on the input side to address the signal coming in, the VXi amps can create one all pass filter per output channel. This should allow you to compensate for the all-pass filter from the OE head unit. OR... you can swap out the head unit.


----------



## slowride

BJG said:


> I also heard they were discontinuing the Slash series.. WTF JL!? 😭


I’m surprised they’re not discontinuing the HD series. They are listed as legacy on the website


----------



## tfunk182

Lylefk said:


> Aloha,
> 
> Can anyone confirm that I won’t need a fix 82 to get a clean input from a 2021 Tacoma factory head unit? It’s the standard stereo, not the premium jbl offering. Haven’t taken delivery yet and my local dealership doesn’t have any, so I can’t play with it.
> 
> The only thing I note of potential concern in the manual is an “Automatic Sound Levelizer”, a speed based adjustment that can be turned off. No mention of time alignment or eq functions that I see. Seems ok to me.
> 
> Thanks a lot, appreciate it!











Full signal from factory head.


So I was told that the factory head unit push out full signal to the speakers, is that true. And if that’s so why would you need a processor for a amp. So my build is going to consist of: factory head unit RD900/5 (2) C2 650 Front and rear door (2) W1 10” Not looking for a lot a bass just a...




www.diymobileaudio.com




The brand new Kicker *KEYLOC* interface and KEY200.4 & KEY500.1 DSP/Amps might work well for you. The KEYLOC corrects the OEM signal similar to JL Audio's FiX units but for less than $150 and will correct OEM All Pass Filters, Digital Delay (time alignment), EQ and more. The Kicker KEY DSP/Amps are tiny and have an "Auto Tune" feature using a supplied microphone. Great options.


----------



## LumbermanSVO

BJG said:


> I also heard they were discontinuing the Slash series.. WTF JL!? 😭


They've been around for 20-ish years. They are good amps, but I can't think of any other consumer electronics that have been around that long.


----------



## lv_v

FYI I have two VX1000/5i and a VX1000/1i BNIB for sale in the Classifieds.


----------



## BJG

LumbermanSVO said:


> They've been around for 20-ish years. They are good amps, but I can't think of any other consumer electronics that have been around that long.


Those discontinuation of those bulletproof indestructible Slash Amps are the final straw between me and JL Audio entirely! 

Man for better or worse, times have changed.. but unfortunately JL Audio is still stuck in 2000.


----------



## lv_v

BJG said:


> Those discontinuation of those bulletproof indestructible Slash Amps are the final straw between me and JL Audio entirely!
> 
> Man for better or worse, times have changed.. but unfortunately JL Audio is still stuck in 2000.


Yes, stuck in the year 2000 with the best integrated DSP amplifiers in the market 😂


----------



## BJG

lv_v said:


> Yes, stuck in the year 2000 with the best integrated DSP amplifiers in the market 😂


All the money I have spent on JL Audio over the years is insane.. but where has their R&D been for the last 20 years?

I'm not nit picking here.. but somebody show me any sort of forward progress in the last 20yrs and I will stand corrected and edit this reply!


----------



## MrGreen83

BJG said:


> All the money I have spent on JL Audio over the years is insane.. but where has their R&D been for the last 20 years?
> 
> I'm not nit picking here.. but somebody show me any sort of forward progress in the last 20yrs and I will stand corrected and edit this reply!


Not feeling the VXi lineup eh? Lol 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## cathul

lv_v said:


> Yes, stuck in the year 2000 with the best integrated DSP amplifiers in the market 😂


So they are at least comparable to the HELIX DSP amplifiers?


----------



## tfunk182

They raised the price at least $149 on these amps.


----------



## stinkdified

cathul said:


> So they are at least comparable to the HELIX DSP amplifiers?


They still use Tun3, correct? I couldn't see how they are comparable if so. I really want to like TuN but imo it's just not as good as the Helix software.

I've not owned any of the VXi linup but I have a Twk88 and a Helix DSP (original) and the Helix software is so much smoother than TuN. 

It seems like simple UI things that need to be changed vs the Helix software, making the mouse-click targets bigger and easier to click on, make the mute buttons bigger, things of that nature. TuN is easy on a desktop w/ a mouse but is a PITA in a car with a touchpad. 

The newer Auto TA and Auto EQ features of the Helix software are apparently excellent also. Does JL have anything similar yet?


----------



## Lylefk

BJG said:


> Those discontinuation of those bulletproof indestructible Slash Amps are the final straw between me and JL Audio entirely!
> 
> Man for better or worse, times have changed.. but unfortunately JL Audio is still stuck in 2000.


I'm having trouble wrapping my head around this...You're upset that they discontinued the Slash series, and say they're stuck in 2000...You DO realize that the Slash series came out in 2000? What...


----------



## BJG

Lylefk said:


> I'm having trouble wrapping my head around this...You're upset that they discontinued the Slash series, and say they're stuck in 2000...You DO realize that the Slash series came out in 2000? What...


What do you mean by what do I mean? They came out in 2000 and the Slash XXXX/1 VX are not much different than the V1.. and this is 2021 in case you've forgotten.


----------



## LumbermanSVO

BJG said:


> What do you mean by what do I mean? They came out in 2000 and the Slash XXXX/1 VX are not much different than the V1.. and this is 2021 in case you've forgotten.


You are upset that they are discontinuing the Slash series, a 20+ year old line. But also upset that they are stuck in the past.

Do you not see how those two thoughts contradict each other?


----------



## skulboep

Does anyone know if there is a way to determine head unit clipping using the VXi series amps? I have a 2020 Jeep Wrangler with the 8.4" factory Alpine head unit. I am using the PAC Audio AP4-CH41 to send the factory radio output to a VX1000/5i. I want to know at what precise volume level my head unit clips so I can accurately set input sensitivity on my amp. 

JL Audio recommends setting all head units to 75% max volume (29 out of 38 in my case), but I am OCD and what to know the precise value at which my head unit clips. Anyway the VXi can do this?


----------



## Lylefk

Anyone know how to get replacement parts for this amp (output plug)?


----------



## vactor

Lylefk said:


> Anyone know how to get replacement parts for this amp (output plug)?











VXi - Car Audio - Amplifiers







www.jlaudio.com





scroll down and click "Load more products" and the various harnesses and hardware show up. easy peasy


----------



## Lylefk

Thanks, I saw that


----------



## Anu2g

skulboep said:


> Does anyone know if there is a way to determine head unit clipping using the VXi series amps? I have a 2020 Jeep Wrangler with the 8.4" factory Alpine head unit. I am using the PAC Audio AP4-CH41 to send the factory radio output to a VX1000/5i. I want to know at what precise volume level my head unit clips so I can accurately set input sensitivity on my amp.
> 
> JL Audio recommends setting all head units to 75% max volume (29 out of 38 in my case), but I am OCD and what to know the precise value at which my head unit clips. Anyway the VXi can do this?


I'm about to install a PAC AP4-CH41 to a VXi, in my brother's car. I added the APA-TOS1 module to the PAC module, which gives it an optical connection...mainly so that I don't need to run any RCAs, but also I'd expect the signal not to clip at all.


----------



## LumbermanSVO

So, I went to adjust the input level on my VX800/8i today after not changing anything for about a year. TuN on my MacBook pro refused to connect, I checked System Information and the system wasn't registering any USB devices. I shut down and booted into Windows and still no USB connections. I swapped the cable, and nothing. 

So I plugged in the bluetooth dongle and tried the phone app, it was able to connect, but said the current tune was too complex, so it couldn't do anything. Dumb, but ok.

After doing a little searching, it looked like the only option left was to do a factory reset, so I did. When the amp booted back up it sent a screeching sound out to the speakers at full volume, I wasn't able to stop it before it killed my AF GB15's.

I can now connect to the amp on windows, but only if the amp has been rebooted since I last connected. It still refuses to connect on MacOS.

I'm pretty pissed at this crappy firmware that requires a factory reset if you haven't connected in a ling time, then go full volume with a crappy signal after the reset. Also, there is no reason these days that a USB device should have trouble connecting.


----------



## vactor

LumbermanSVO said:


> So, I went to adjust the input level on my VX800/8i today after not changing anything for about a year. TuN on my MacBook pro refused to connect, I checked System Information and the system wasn't registering any USB devices. I shut down and booted into Windows and still no USB connections. I swapped the cable, and nothing.
> 
> So I plugged in the bluetooth dongle and tried the phone app, it was able to connect, but said the current tune was too complex, so it couldn't do anything. Dumb, but ok.
> 
> After doing a little searching, it looked like the only option left was to do a factory reset, so I did. When the amp booted back up it sent a screeching sound out to the speakers at full volume, I wasn't able to stop it before it killed my AF GB15's.
> 
> I can now connect to the amp on windows, but only if the amp has been rebooted since I last connected. It still refuses to connect on MacOS.
> 
> I'm pretty pissed at this crappy firmware that requires a factory reset if you haven't connected in a ling time, then go full volume with a crappy signal after the reset. Also, there is no reason these days that a USB device should have trouble connecting.


contact JL. they will set things right.


----------



## timg

I also had trouble connecting on a MacBook Pro. It seemed to be a USB C compatibility issue. When I changed USB adapters and cables, it worked. 

Tim


----------



## socal.2fast

To all you VXI and car audio pros. I would love some help.

I'm going a setup in a new Shelby mustang.

The car has the OEM B&O set up. I have going to use the stock hear unit/dash set up.

I'm going to run Hertz Legends 3 way pass. Comp. in the front and 2 way Hertz Legends pass comp. rear.
2 JL 10" W6 subs in a small sealed box.

ok now for the help.

I was thinking of running 

VX800i run Bridged @ 4Ω x 4. for front and rear highs.
VX1000/1i for the subs.

I was thinking of running the VXI-Hub Unit ? and the DRC-205 Remote?

Is there anything more I should add? Should I have something between the Stock OEM set up and the VXI amps to help clean up the Signal and give HIgh volt power to the input of the VXI amp's ????



Thanks for any help and input.


----------



## cathul

Pac AmpPro imho.


----------



## Anu2g

socal.2fast said:


> To all you VXI and car audio pros. I would love some help.
> 
> I'm going a setup in a new Shelby mustang.
> 
> The car has the OEM B&O set up. I have going to use the stock hear unit/dash set up.
> 
> I'm going to run Hertz Legends 3 way pass. Comp. in the front and 2 way Hertz Legends pass comp. rear.
> 2 JL 10" W6 subs in a small sealed box.
> 
> ok now for the help.
> 
> I was thinking of running
> 
> VX800i run Bridged @ 4Ω x 4. for front and rear highs.
> VX1000/1i for the subs.
> 
> I was thinking of running the VXI-Hub Unit ? and the DRC-205 Remote?
> 
> Is there anything more I should add? Should I have something between the Stock OEM set up and the VXI amps to help clean up the Signal and give HIgh volt power to the input of the VXI amp's ????
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help and input.


If it were me, I would ditch rear speakers altogether, and ditch the front crossovers, and run the Mille Legend 3-ways fully active off the VX800/8, with bridged channels to the mid-bass. I basically have that same setup, using XD800/8 to ML 3 way active and an XD1000/1. I'm using an external DSP, but same concept. I did install a VXi in my brother's car.


----------



## GrM

Might as well add my VXi/MacBook pro (1 year old) issues. Can’t get it to connect regardless of the cable/dongle (apple and a couple other brands). I will spare the reader everything I tried to get it to work but I did everything I could think of, everything I could find online and a lot others more knowledgeable suggested. The only way to get a connection is doing a hard reset of the amp, then it works well. For anyone else doing this: make sure the radio is TURNED OFF as it WILL reset the DSP, including crossovers (if you’re running speakers active you really should have inline crossovers [capacitors] wired between the amp and tweeters to protect against human error or mechanical issues such as this). The software mutes all channels when connected to a computer but it won’t be muted between the rest and connecting to a computer.

Ive given up using my computer with it. But luckily I know someone who lets me barrow their Dell laptop, which works flawlessly with the VXi. Which is annoying, especially because its supposed Mac compatibility was a main reason to get it. Kinda wish I’d gone with AudioControl and saved a few hundred, and headaches.


----------



## Anu2g

GrM said:


> Might as well add my VXi/MacBook pro (1 year old) issues. Can’t get it to connect regardless of the cable/dongle (apple and a couple other brands). I will spare the reader everything I tried to get it to work but I did everything I could think of, everything I could find online and a lot others more knowledgeable suggested. The only way to get a connection is doing a hard reset of the amp, then it works well. For anyone else doing this: make sure the radio is TURNED OFF as it WILL reset the DSP, including crossovers. The software mutes all channels when connected to a computer but it won’t be muted between the rest and connecting to a computer.
> 
> Ive given up using my computer with it. But luckily I know someone who lets me barrow their Dell laptop, which works flawlessly with the VXi. Which is annoying, especially because its supposed Mac compatibility was a main reason to get it. Kinda wish I’d gone with AudioControl and saved a few hundred, and headaches.


That's annoying. I was able to connect easily to my brother's VX1000/5i, using my MacBook Pro, running OSX 11.4 (Big Sur). Hopefully I don't get the issues you got, as I need to spend more time tuning his system.


----------



## socal.2fast

I was having a hard time picking with my set up

VX800i run Bridged @ 4Ω x 4. for front and rear highs.
VX1000/1i for the subs.
VXI-Hub Unit
DRC-205 Remote

VS

Audsion SR 4.500
Audsion SR 1.500
Audsion *bit One HD Virtuoso* 
Audsion DRC MP Remote


----------



## Anu2g

socal.2fast said:


> I was having a hard time picking with my set up
> 
> VX800i run Bridged @ 4Ω x 4. for front and rear highs.
> VX1000/1i for the subs.
> VXI-Hub Unit
> DRC-205 Remote
> 
> VS
> 
> Audsion SR 4.500
> Audsion SR 1.500
> Audsion *bit One HD Virtuoso*
> Audsion DRC MP Remote


Why not VX800/8i running as 75x4 actively to front tweeters and front mids, and 200x2 to front mid-basses? Drop the rears


----------



## GrM

Anu2g said:


> That's annoying. I was able to connect easily to my brother's VX1000/5i, using my MacBook Pro, running OSX 11.4 (Big Sur). Hopefully I don't get the issues you got, as I need to spend more time tuning his system.


Hopefully it was something to do with the usb to lightening adapters (thunder, whatever they’re on now) that I’m using (one of which is Apples, purchased via their website so definitely not a knock offs). My computer (and amp) are fully up to date like yours (idk if your amp is, if it’s not don’t update it just yet incase that’s an issue). Once you do the hard reset it works fine though. But it’s annoying to have to do that every single time. I had this issue from the first time I tried using it. First thought was the amp being defective but luckily that wasn’t the case


----------



## timg

I tried a USB B to C cable with mine and it failed. Using the original cable with an adapter allowed me to connect on my 2018 MacBook Pro. I'm on Big Sur. For whatever reason, the Apple adapter didn't work, but a 3rd party one did. I also had a conflict with the JLid bluetooth adapter preventing my computer from connecting. Anyway, now that it's setup, it sounds fantastic.

Tim


----------



## socal.2fast

Dose it help if you run a JL Fix 86 from the oem head unit? Then from the Fix 86 to the vxi amps?

will this help at all?


Or just go with the oem head unit right to the v


----------



## Cisco473

socal.2fast said:


> Dose it help if you run a JL Fix 86 from the oem head unit? Then from the Fix 86 to the vxi amps?
> 
> will this help at all?
> 
> 
> Or just go with the oem head unit right to the v


It’ll help flatten your signal before reaching the vxi. I will be running a fix 82 to my vxi’s. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bbfoto

socal.2fast said:


> Does it help if you run a JL Fix 86 from the oem head unit? Then from the Fix 86 to the vxi amps?
> 
> will this help at all?
> 
> Or just go with the oem head unit right to the vxi


The JL Audio FiX units are old tech at this point and are just a "band-aid" solution.

Instead of the JL FiX, as previously posted look into getting the *PAC Audio AmpPRO-4* Ford OEM integration interface, or *iDataLink Maestro AR*, or *Rockford-Fosgate DSR1* to obtain a flat, clean, non-EQ'd line level RCA output signal from your OEM head unit to feed into your VXi DSP/Amps. Otherwise Garbage In (the OEM speaker level head unit outputs) = Garbage Out.


I'm with others in regards to ditching the rear speakers or just using the OEM speakers there and running the 3-way front Hertz Mille Legends fully active with the VXi 800/8. That's why you paid extra for the VXi DSP Amplifiers and you are completely wasting the VXi's features and DSP power if you don't use it to run your system fully active.

If you ditch the rear speakers altogether (it's a smallish cabin and the subs will be pounding back there anyway) then you don't even need the VXi Hub. The subwoofer channel(s) can be processed by channel 8 or 7/8 off of the
VX800/8i and the processed RCA Output can simply be fed to the VX1000/1i RCA inputs.

The most important thing is to obtain a clean, flat, non-EQ'd line level source signal from the OEM Head unit to feed to your DSP. The OEM speaker-level outputs are far from ideal for this.

And the OEM Warning Chimes and BT call audio may become problematic when adding the JL VXi's without an OEM integration Interface.

Depending on your OEM system, you may also need to install "load resistors" on the OEM speaker outputs.

AudioControl makes these specifically for Ford vehicles.

Some Links: 

AmpPRO - PAC 


AC LGD's: Do your line converters put a resistor load on the speaker outputs of my factory amp? | AudioControl


One of the best resources for information regarding installing aftermarket stereo equipment into late model Ford's are the videos on the YouTube channels *5 Star Car Stereo* and *Dean & Fernando's Car Stereo Clips* (both from the same stereo shop). 

They have installed multiple stereo systems in the new Ford Mustangs (and Dean owns a new Mustang convertible). They know what works and fits, and what doesn't. Search their YouTube channels for late model Mustang installation videos.


----------



## JessSpec

@msmith Hi, I am new in this forum hehe, Interesting information throughout the thread, I read the full 36 pages.

I have a VX800/8i and a VX600/1i in my vehicle.
I always like to get an in-depth understanding of the system I have, and am really interested to know what op-amps these great amps use?
Could you help me with the answer?


----------



## msmith

JessSpec, thanks for choosing VXi's! The VXi amps use no op-amps in their amplifier circuits. The signal processing boards use NJM2068V op-amps, which are very low noise op-amps ideal for that application.

Best regards.

Manville Smith
JL Audio, Inc.


----------



## BigTasty

Good morning yall. Hoping for a bit of advice if I may. I have a 2017 Silverado Standard Cab and looking to upgrade my system. I am looking at 2 12" 12TW3 Shallow Mount subs for behind the bench ran to a VX1000/1i. Since its a single Cab Truck, I was going to run some Alpine X-S65C Components to the doors hooked up to a VX600/2i. Would I regret that decision on that Amp? Should I get the 4 or 6ch amp for possible future expansion or do you think the single set of components and VX600/2i should cover me well? Id rather buy once rather than worry about swapping the amp out later or adding another since space is pretty limited. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## GrM

Might as well save the money and get at least a 5ch VXi, that’ll be cheaper than a separate 2ch and mono and you’ll have the extra channels to run your tweeters and woofers active. If you went that route you could add another 2 or 4ch amp later if needed. Only thing is the 2ch is 180w RMS I we channel 4-8ch are 75w but can be bridged to 200w if needed. But it’ll cost about $2,000 for the 2ch and a 600w mono, a 5ch (75w x 4, 600x1) is 1,600. But it’ll be a lot more expensive to get a 5ch amp now and a 4ch later than an 8ch and mono. Definitely best to have more channels than you think you need and end up not using them than end up having to pay thousands or more for another amp on down the road


----------



## bbfoto

BigTasty said:


> Good morning yall. Hoping for a bit of advice if I may. I have a 2017 Silverado Standard Cab and looking to upgrade my system. I am looking at 2 12" 12TW3 Shallow Mount subs for behind the bench ran to a VX1000/1i. Since its a single Cab Truck, I was going to run some Alpine X-S65C Components to the doors hooked up to a VX600/2i. Would I regret that decision on that Amp? Should I get the 4 or 6ch amp for possible future expansion or do you think the single set of components and VX600/2i should cover me well? Id rather buy once rather than worry about swapping the amp out later or adding another since space is pretty limited. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Are you using the OEM stereo head unit as your source? If so, is it the 4.2" or 7" screen?

Or do you have an aftermarket head unit?

Do you use your iPhone or Android smartphone to play your music?


You might want to switch to the X-S69C 6"x9" version of the Alpine Type-X components...they provide incredible midbass when installed properly.  They will fit in the Silverado doors if appropriate spacer/baffle rings are used.

Either way, Do Not use the cheap and flimsy plastic Metra speaker adapters to mount these high-end components in your doors! Buy or make SOLID mounting baffles that are HDPE, Acrylic/Plexiglass, or Sintra (expanded PVC sheet). I think that you'll be very happy with either the 6.5" or 6"x9" Type-X components. 

The best way to use and take advantage of the features of the VXi DSP multi-channel amplifiers is to place each speaker and tweeter on its own separate channel to use the DSP and appropriate amplifier power to control and "tune" each of them independently for optimum performance. Passive Crossovers are very generic and crude and are just a "one size fits all" solution.

For the amplifiers I would go with the JL VX600/6i and bridge 4 of the channels down to 2 in order to power the front door 6.5" or 6"x9" midwoofers with *up to* 200 watts. Then use the remaining 2 channels to power the tweeters with *up to* 75 watts. Tweeters really only need a few watts to get really loud...seriously just 10 watts will make most tweeters scream, whereas you need EXPONENTIALLY more power to drive the 6.5" or 6"x9" midwoofers due to their exponentially larger size and cone mass.

You generally want to have plenty of extra power available for your main midwoofer or midbass speakers in order to reproduce the dynamic transient peaks in the lower midbass frequencies. Even though the midwoofers will only need 20-75 watts to reproduce 90% of your music at very loud levels, the dynamic transient peaks require extra instantaneous power and give your music that extra impact and WOW factor. Properly integrated Subwoofers will help to achieve this as well.

The multi-channel VXi amplifiers have 2 additional processed DSP Output Channels via two RCA output connectors. DSP adjustments can be applied to these 2 RCA outputs, which can then be connected to ANY standard subwoofer amplifier of your choice...

You do not need to spend the extra money for the DSP features of the VX1000/1i that you will not need or use. You can buy a less expensive and potentially smaller standard subwoofer amplifier to fit your limited space and to save money. Something like the Rockford-Fosgate Power T750X1bd, or any number of other small and even less expensive subwoofer amplifiers would work well. Just make sure that you purchase the appropriate voice coil versions of the Two JL 12TW3 subwoofers so when wired together they will provide the proper final Ohm Load to the amplifier that you choose.

And definitely get the JL DRC-205 remote to control master volume level, subwoofer level, and source selection/tuning presets. You would connect it to the VX600/6i, and because this amp is processing the subwoofer signal and controlling the RCA outputs to your separate subwoofer amplifier, you do not need a separate bass knob for your subwoofer amp.

PLEASE make sure to use lots of GOOD QUALITY sound deadening treatment in your front doors and Seal all of the holes and openings in the door sheetmetal where the 6.5" or 6"x9" midwoofers are mounted in order to achieve excellent midbass performance, and reduce any resonances and vibrations that _will_ deteriorate the Sound Quality of your expensive component speakers. Treat the actual door panels as well! Check out the great products and installation guide at *ResoNix Sound Solutions* which is owned and operated by DIYMA member @SkizeR .

This setup should sound really really good...if it's properly installed and tuned.


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## BigTasty

Thank you so much for that heads up. I’ll go with the VX600/6i then. I originally was going to go that route but for a single set of Components I wasn’t too sure. Also good to hear about the 1000/1i and not needing that. I obviously want the best sub amp I could get to push these subs where they need to be.
I have gone through and deadened the entire cab, floor, wall, doors and door skins, etc. anywhere I could.

I was going to go with the 6x9s but it is said they actually don’t fit my truck properly so that’s why I was going the 6.5 route. 

I am using the Stinger Heigh10 Head Unit so I was really trying to utilize the optical out to run from the head unit to the VXi amp. 

If I can save a decent amount by going to a non VXi sub amp, maybe I’ll step up into some Focal Components and run them active. 🤔


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## ArgonautVans

Hey all, I have a pretty quick/simple question.

I have a VX800/8i amp installed in my Camper Van (2020 Ford Transit). Currently its analog audio inputs are connected to the Van's SYNC 3 analog audio outputs. I have a power selector switch that lets me run the amp off my van starter batteries, or switch to the house 12V lithium power bank

Works great when driving/with the van on. However, I'd like to be able to listen to music when the van ignition is turned off for extended periods of time, so I cannot connect my phone to the head unit to play music because it turns off after 30 minutes of no key.

Anyways, I basically want to be able to play music through the amp with both the analog inputs from the head unit (while driving), and I want to add a Bluetooth receiver so I can play music through the system when parked with the van/head unit off.

My initial thought was to buy a Schit SYS audio switcher. Schiit Audio: Audio Products Designed and Built in California

I'd connect the head unit RCAs to one pair of inputs, and then I'd connect a bluetooth receiver's RCAs to the other pair of inputs. Then the SYS output would go to the VXI analog input. I'd manually switch between Head unit input and Bluetooth receiver input when I switch the power source.
(like this: JL Audio MBT-RX)

However, after looking at the manual, I noticed the VXi Amp has a Digital audio input port as well. Could I just hook up a bluetooth audio receiver with a digital out cable to this port? Is there a way to easily switch from the analog audio input to digital audio input with the JL software (I have not fiddled with the TUN software at all yet)? If the amp has power, and there is no analog input signal but there is a digital audio input (and vice versa), will it automatically switch to the active audio source? This is the Bluetooth receiver I'm looking at that has digital audio out:

Audio Engine B1: B1 Bluetooth Music Receiver — Audioengine
iFi Zen Blue V2: iFi Zen Blue V2
Auris Blume HD: bluMe HD
Auris Blume Pro: bluMe Pro
Bludento BLT-HD: BluDento BLT-HD True Hi-Fi Bluetooth Audio Receiver
1Mii LavaAudio DS200: 1Mii Lavaudio DS200 Bluetooth HiI-FiI Receiver

Any help is appreciated! I want the best audio quality, but each of use is nice if the digital audio input is an option. Thank you


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## My_Rav4

.


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## Anu2g

ArgonautVans said:


> Hey all, I have a pretty quick/simple question.
> 
> I have a VX800/8i amp installed in my Camper Van (2020 Ford Transit). Currently its analog audio inputs are connected to the Van's SYNC 3 analog audio outputs. I have a power selector switch that lets me run the amp off my van starter batteries, or switch to the house 12V lithium power bank
> 
> Works great when driving/with the van on. However, I'd like to be able to listen to music when the van ignition is turned off for extended periods of time, so I cannot connect my phone to the head unit to play music because it turns off after 30 minutes of no key.
> 
> Anyways, I basically want to be able to play music through the amp with both the analog inputs from the head unit (while driving), and I want to add a Bluetooth receiver so I can play music through the system when parked with the van/head unit off.
> 
> My initial thought was to buy a Schit SYS audio switcher. Schiit Audio: Audio Products Designed and Built in California
> 
> I'd connect the head unit RCAs to one pair of inputs, and then I'd connect a bluetooth receiver's RCAs to the other pair of inputs. Then the SYS output would go to the VXI analog input. I'd manually switch between Head unit input and Bluetooth receiver input when I switch the power source.
> (like this: JL Audio MBT-RX)
> 
> However, after looking at the manual, I noticed the VXi Amp has a Digital audio input port as well. Could I just hook up a bluetooth audio receiver with a digital out cable to this port? Is there a way to easily switch from the analog audio input to digital audio input with the JL software (I have not fiddled with the TUN software at all yet)? If the amp has power, and there is no analog input signal but there is a digital audio input (and vice versa), will it automatically switch to the active audio source? This is the Bluetooth receiver I'm looking at that has digital audio out:
> 
> Audio Engine B1: B1 Bluetooth Music Receiver — Audioengine
> iFi Zen Blue V2: iFi Zen Blue V2
> Auris Blume HD: bluMe HD
> Auris Blume Pro: bluMe Pro
> Bludento BLT-HD: BluDento BLT-HD True Hi-Fi Bluetooth Audio Receiver
> 1Mii LavaAudio DS200: 1Mii Lavaudio DS200 Bluetooth HiI-FiI Receiver
> 
> Any help is appreciated! I want the best audio quality, but each of use is nice if the digital audio input is an option. Thank you


If you get one of the VXi remotes, you could set that up in the Tun software to easily switch between the digital input and the analog input. It's up to you whether you prefer the VXi remote for doing that versus the RCA switch that you linked above. 

On a related note, I've had good luck with JL Audio's BT receiver: JL Audio MBT-RX

When using BT, you'd be using the phone to control the volume, obviously


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## ArgonautVans

Anu2g said:


> If you get one of the VXi remotes, you could set that up in the Tun software to easily switch between the digital input and the analog input. It's up to you whether you prefer the VXi remote for doing that versus the RCA switch that you linked above.
> 
> On a related note, I've had good luck with JL Audio's BT receiver: JL Audio MBT-RX
> 
> When using BT, you'd be using the phone to control the volume, obviously


Cool, I do have the VXi remote, and it's right by my power source switch so it'd be an easy thing to do.

Will there be any difference in audio quality going with the digital output vs the RCA for the Bluetooth receiver? Does the VX800/8i have a built in DAC essentially, so does it not matter?

I want to go with Bluetooth 5.0 so I can get long range and have my phone outside the van when music is playing (my rear speakers are mounted on the doors, so they can play outside music when the doors are open while camping). Otherwise the MBT-RX would be appealing for 12V power wiring. As it is with the other ones, I'd need to use a voltage regulator to 5v DC, or use the AC adapter to one of my outlets.


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## Anu2g

ArgonautVans said:


> Cool, I do have the VXi remote, and it's right by my power source switch so it'd be an easy thing to do.
> 
> Will there be any difference in audio quality going with the digital output vs the RCA for the Bluetooth receiver? Does the VX800/8i have a built in DAC essentially, so does it not matter?
> 
> I want to go with Bluetooth 5.0 so I can get long range and have my phone outside the van when music is playing (my rear speakers are mounted on the doors, so they can play outside music when the doors are open while camping). Otherwise the MBT-RX would be appealing for 12V power wiring. As it is with the other ones, I'd need to use a voltage regulator to 5v DC, or use the AC adapter to one of my outlets.


In my humble opinion, I don't think you'll notice a difference in using the MBT-RX (analog out) versus another BT receiver with a digital out, partially because the RCA run would be short (I.e. low likelihood for interference). You'd basically be betting on whether the MBT-RX or VXi has a better DAC. But, if you already have the VXi remote installed, then it would probably be easier to use some BT receiver that has a digital out, just so you're not introducing another remote/switch into your system unnecessarily (and adding unnecessary expense). I'm sure you can find another 12v BT receiver with a digital out. I haven't actually looked, but I'm just guessing it exists.


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## My_Rav4

For these JL Audio amps, if the car battery is disconnected then are the settings from the Tun software for the VXi amplifiers saved? Or, do they get reset?


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## Stycker

Its saved to whatever tune you last loaded in the DSP. It will still be there.


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## ArgonautVans

This may be a silly question - does the VX800/8in have a built in DAC? I.e. if I have a bluetooth receiver with optical out, and plug that in to the VXi optical input - the amp must have it's own internal DAC to convert that to analog, right?

Or would I get better audio quality using a Bluetooth receiver with a built in DAC (i.e. iFi Zen Blue v2) going to RCA inputs?


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## Anu2g

ArgonautVans said:


> This may be a silly question - does the VX800/8in have a built in DAC? I.e. if I have a bluetooth receiver with optical out, and plug that in to the VXi optical input - the amp must have it's own internal DAC to convert that to analog, right?
> 
> Or would I get better audio quality using a Bluetooth receiver with a built in DAC (i.e. iFi Zen Blue v2) going to RCA inputs?


Hard to say whether the VXi's DAC versus some other DAC would be better, but the VXi (or any other DSP with an optical in and analog out [whether via RCA or amplified speaker-level outs]) has a built in DAC


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## jheat2500

If you're streaming from your phone via Bluetooth, then Bluetooth will be your limiting factor as far as quality is concerned.


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## lucas569

bbfoto said:


> Rockford-Fosgate DSR1


this unit looks so promising.... but ive read about countless issues. Makes me hesitant to use one


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## vactor

Vxi are solid and any issues are usually related to user error, but the software has been greatly improved over time, and now with Tun 4, i think it's gonna be hard to beat these amps. looking forward to using 2 in my next system. plus JL customer service and tech support is second to none. you can get one and feel like you made a great choice all around.


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## lucas569

I agree. I was referring to the Rockford Fosgate DSR1


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## Sam b

Anyone have any cool amp rack pics w VXI amps


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## Sam b

Also. Do these VXI amps need cooling fans if there enclosed Will have 3 of them in one enclosure rack


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## thehardcorps

Too many speakers? I have a 67 Impala I am installing Morel Virtus Carbon 603s in custom kick panels (tweet, 3” mid, 6.5” woof) and the JL C2-690tx in the rear panel tray. I have a single 10w6 sealed in the trunk. I am running a VXi800/8 so that I can run each speaker active and the sub has its own XD600 via the VXi pre amp outs. I am worried that the 6.5” may be a little underpowered and I am wondering if bridging those two and ditching the rears (or finding another way to incorporate them) would be better. I don’t necessarily like front only setups but if I lose too much low end up front that will probably sound worse. Can’t wait to find someone with the new JL-Max gear so I can get it really dialed in. Any suggestions are super welcome. Thanks!


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## icanski2

Sam b said:


> Anyone have any cool amp rack pics w VXI amps


I am installing three VXi.'s in my 2020 Expedition right now. 2-600/6i's and a 600/1i along with an HD1200 and a Soundigital 400.4. I'm not doing all of them on one rack because I am trying to preserve as much of the floor storage as possible and I don't want anything visible. I'll post some pics when its done.


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## Sam b

That would be great to see


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## McLovin

thehardcorps said:


> Too many speakers? I have a 67 Impala I am installing Morel Virtus Carbon 603s in custom kick panels (tweet, 3” mid, 6.5” woof) and the JL C2-690tx in the rear panel tray. I have a single 10w6 sealed in the trunk. I am running a VXi800/8 so that I can run each speaker active and the sub has its own XD600 via the VXi pre amp outs. I am worried that the 6.5” may be a little underpowered and I am wondering if bridging those two and ditching the rears (or finding another way to incorporate them) would be better. I don’t necessarily like front only setups but if I lose too much low end up front that will probably sound worse. Can’t wait to find someone with the new JL-Max gear so I can get it really dialed in. Any suggestions are super welcome. Thanks!


I had my 3 way Focal components active, for 2 years. Now with the TuN4.5 update, I decided to bridge 5/6 and 7/8 to my 6s. WOW! That woke things up. Ditch the rear fill, your subs will handle that and after you EQ them with the vxi, they fill fit right in perfectly.


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