# Dodge Premium Alpine System - I just want to add my subs



## zuldera7 (Dec 15, 2015)

I have been researching for days on how to simply add my subs to my truck. There are many forums posts discussing this, but nothing has been direct enough for me the understand it. 

What I have:
2012 Dodge Ram 1500
"Premium" Alpine system with 8 inch OE Sub

What I want to do:
I want to keep the OE head unit and speakers.
I simply want to replace the OE Sub with my 2 Kicker CompVR 15s to the existing system. Nothing more, nothing less. I don't quite know how to go about it. I haven't decided on an amp, but all I need is a mono amp to power the subs. I would like to keep it as simple as possible. Any help is appreciated.

Side Note: I unhooked the OE 8-inch sub and I hooked one of the Kickers directly to the left or right sub channel. I turned everything down, and just wanted to make sure I fell vibration in the 15, which I did.


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## webwarmiller (Oct 19, 2015)

Simple as possible: Use an amplifier that accepts high level inputs that also turns itself on when a signal is detected. You'll also want it to have a remote level control so you can adjust the subs' level from the driver's seat. Now you just need to connect the factory speaker wires for the sub to the amp's high level input, run a power wire to the battery, run your ground as close to the amp as possible, and then hook your new subs to the amp.


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## zuldera7 (Dec 15, 2015)

Awesome! Thanks for the info. So essentially this is all I need?

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2062CX...with_promotion&awnw=g&awcr=47439226465&awdv=m


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## webwarmiller (Oct 19, 2015)

And this if you want to be able to control the subs' level remotely: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_20612CXRC/Kicker-12CXRC-Remote-Bass-Control.html?tp=3091

And then this to convert the speaker wire to RCAs: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_206KISL/Kicker-KISL.html?tp=1694


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## Bminus (Sep 24, 2014)

Or get an Line Out Converter which converts the high level speaker inputs into low level RCA inputs, which then go to the amp. Audio Control makes some good ones. 
Just another option...

Woops wasnt paying attention to the above post lol..


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## Silvercoat (Dec 5, 2013)

Here is a simple list of what you would need and your options.

---Power---
You need to run a power wire from your battery under the hood to your amp. When buying a wire kit, stick with a major brand. Most brands will come with a decent in line fuse, short ground wire, amp turn on wire, a mounting piece for the groun, and a set of RCAs. 
Your ground wire needs to go onto a solid metal surface attached to the body of the car, usually a seat moutning bolt or you can screw on your own. 

"Gauge" is not the same as "AWG as listed on wire size. To size up your wire simply, just go by the RMS wattage you will be running. Kicker COMP VRs come in either 2Ω DVC or 4Ω DVC. They are rated @ 500 Watts RMS. If you are running 2 of them, your common usable final Ω load the amp will see is either:
2Ω DVC Subs: 2Ω
4Ω DVC Subs: 4Ω or 1Ω

How you wire them is completely your choice but my suggestion for the 4Ω ones would be to run them at 1Ω if you do not want to spend too much money on a decent amp. Getting 1000Watts RMS (500x2) @ 4Ω can make the amp cost go up a bit. Choose an amp that does 1000 Watts RMS @ 1Ω or one that does the same at 2Ω.

For the power wire, a good 4 AWG kit will do you well. The inexpensive kits made by Metra/Kicker/Rockford are good choices.

---Signal---
To tap signal, you can either go high or low level. There are advantages and disadvantages to both. The "simplier" way is to do Hi-level input. This means you take signal directly from the speaker wires that go into the factory sub and use those as signal input to your aftermarket amp. Your amp has to be compatible for this. Some amps also have "signal sensing turn on". This means that once it detects audio signal, the amp turns itself on. This is good because you dont want the amp to stay on when the car is off aka the radio is not playing anything. The disadvantage to this setup is 3 problems. Some amps do not sense signal well and may stay on when the car is off which will kill your battery. Doing Hi-Level input also tends to introduce some audible distortion even on a properly tuned amp. Some factory audio systems don't like being tapped this way either and may have adverse audio affects (as you saw by hooking up your subs already)

The other way takes a bit more work but is the tried and tested way. Running Low-Level input means you will need a Line Output converter (LOC) and a place to find amp turn on signal. A LOC is tapped on the speaker leads going to your factory sub, but it gives you RCA output to run into your amp. A Kicker or PAC line output converter are goods choices since some Crysler/Dodge systems have issues with LOC's. The RCA then go into your amp for signal. Sourcing an amp turn on signal is hard in newer Crysler/Dodge vehicles. Basically you need to tap a wire that is only "ON when the car is on. On these vehicles typically the positive wire going powering your cigarette lighter is the only wire in the car that behaves this way and is easy to get to. You can test this by plugging in a phone charger and seeing if it stops charging when the car is completely off. On some vehicles this may take 5-10mins. If it does you have find the right wire. The nice thing about doing this versus signal sensing is you do not run into the possibility of the amp staying on when the car is off.


Other than that wiring up a good sub box and chosing an amp that has a bass knob will be enough. When chosing a bass knob/amp make sure the knob adjusts output level and not just "bass boost"


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## zuldera7 (Dec 15, 2015)

I appreciate the information from everyone. I am going to go with an amp with speaker level inputs, and I have narrowed it down to 3 from Crutchfield. All 3 should power the 2 Kickers. Which should I go with?

As a reminder, I have 2 4 Ohm Kicker CompVR 15" subs in a ported box.

Kenwood KAC-9106D
$299.99
500 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms

Kicker 12CX1200.1
$299.99
600 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms

Kicker DXA1000.1
$329.99
500 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms


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## webwarmiller (Oct 19, 2015)

zuldera7 said:


> I appreciate the information from everyone. I am going to go with an amp with speaker level inputs, and I have narrowed it down to 3 from Crutchfield. All 3 should power the 2 Kickers. Which should I go with?
> 
> As a reminder, I have 2 4 Ohm Kicker CompVR 15" subs in a ported box.
> 
> ...


Well, the Kenwood doesn't have a remote level control, but it can be bought off Jet.com for ~$128 ($160 and 20now or Android20 coupon).


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## Silvercoat (Dec 5, 2013)

zuldera7 said:


> I appreciate the information from everyone. I am going to go with an amp with speaker level inputs, and I have narrowed it down to 3 from Crutchfield. All 3 should power the 2 Kickers. Which should I go with?
> 
> As a reminder, I have 2 4 Ohm Kicker CompVR 15" subs in a ported box.
> 
> ...





zuldera7 said:


> I appreciate the information from everyone. I am going to go with an amp with speaker level inputs, and I have narrowed it down to 3 from Crutchfield. All 3 should power the 2 Kickers. Which should I go with?
> 
> As a reminder, I have 2 4 Ohm Kicker CompVR 15" subs in a ported box.
> 
> ...



So they are the DVC 4Ω versions? (10CVR154) or (07CVR154). If that is the case then you need 1000Watts RMS @ 1Ω OR 4Ω.

If they are the DVC 2Ω versions (10CVR152) or (07CVR152) then these amps are good choices. Some notes:

Kenwood: Good solid amp I have used many times. However if you are getting a refurb as the link went to, make sure it has the connector for the hi-level input (it comes with it NIB it looks like a small harness) However, this amp would require an external bass knob as it does not have an option for one. This is not a big deal if you have a"SUB LEVEL" on your factory stereo. If you do, just use that. The power terminal also need spade connectors as opposed to straight wire.

Kickers: Both good options, I have not used the CX line as it is newer but the DX we used for a number of years. I think they are just slightly different and either would power the subs if they are the DVC 2Ω subs. These do however require a speaker wire > RCA converter Kicker KISL 2-channel speaker wire adapter (bare-wire connector to RCAs) at Crutchfield.com or just make something yourself. 

Hit us back up with the model numbers of the subs to make sure you have what you need.


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## zuldera7 (Dec 15, 2015)

Ok guys, sorry for the delayed response. They are 2 ohm. The model is 07CVR152.


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## Silvercoat (Dec 5, 2013)

Sounds to me like you are good shape. Go with the Kenwood if your factory stereo has a "SUB" level option or go with the Kicker DX if it does not and grab a bass knob.


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## zuldera7 (Dec 15, 2015)

Everything is in the mail. I will let you know how it goes.


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## moparman79 (Jan 31, 2008)

Use the Audio Control LCi2 active LOC. Dodges lower the bass volume to prevent oem speaker damage at max volume. So as you turn up the master volume the system cuts the output volume. Reason you need this unit to correct this with the built in accubass dial. You can get away just tapping high level signals in other applications and the volume level is fine, but not in Dodges. 

http://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-2-Channel-Converter-Subwoofer-Control/dp/B004CTBYGE


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## zuldera7 (Dec 15, 2015)

customaudioman said:


> Use the Audio Control LCi2 active LOC. Dodges lower the bass volume to prevent oem speaker damage at max volume. So as you turn up the master volume the system cuts the output volume. Reason you need this unit to correct this with the built in accubass dial. You can get away just tapping high level signals in other applications and the volume level is fine, but not in Dodges.
> 
> Amazon.com : AudioControl LC2I 2-Channel Line Out Converter and Subwoofer Control : Power Converters : Electronics


So here is what I got:
Kenwood KAC-9106D
AudioControl LC2I
Audio Control ACR1 Remote
20 Foot 4 Gauge Car Audio Amplifier Installation & Wiring Kit
Rockford Fosgate RFI-10 Twisted Pair Signal Cable
Bullz Audio 1/0/4/8 Gauge Power and Ground Distribution Block


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## eatdrawbloom (Dec 19, 2015)

Nice! This thread will come in handy!


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## Bjoshua1002 (Jun 19, 2020)

Silvercoat said:


> Here is a simple list of what you would need and your options.
> 
> ---Power---
> You need to run a power wire from your battery under the hood to your amp. When buying a wire kit, stick with a major brand. Most brands will come with a decent in line fuse, short ground wire, amp turn on wire, a mounting piece for the groun, and a set of RCAs.
> ...


I do believe "gauge" IS in fact the same as "AWG". I know this because it IS part of the acronym. American Wire Gauge.


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## knever3 (Mar 9, 2009)

5 year thread Resurrection Correction LOL

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


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## Bjoshua1002 (Jun 19, 2020)

knever3 said:


> 5 year thread Resurrection Correction LOL
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


Go Covid!


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