# F-250 crew cab install



## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

Here is my system layout so far. Im unsure if I want to use the xtant amps or get a nice 6 chanel and then a monoblock for the sub. I just dont think the 1001dx will be enough for the DIYMA 12. Anyhow here are some pictures of the install so far. My plans are for a single DIYMA 12 in a center consol enclosure. I was planning on two Dayton RS265's but I dont have the room for them so thats why I wanted to go wit the DIYMA. Once I get the sub in next week I will start working on the console design.

Mike


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## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

Here are the kicks which are nothing special but they will work for now. I did not want to have much going on down in the kicks so as long as these daytons perform well off axis I will leave them. I am going to be getting the removable baffle laser cut from aluminum which I will be painting black. The baffles are lexan for now.


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## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

Here is the raamat install pictures. I cant tell you have much better this alone makes even the factory audio system sound. This is why I have been taking so long to get done with this system being he factory speakers sounded so much better with everything sound dampend.

Mike


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## DonovanM (Nov 1, 2006)

That is a textbook deadening install. One of the better ones I've seen. Nice work man!


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## dBassHz (Nov 2, 2005)

You should stuff some Dayton RS225-4 woofers in the doors instead of the RS180S.


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## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

I have some RS225's but im not sure they will fit without major mods. The window chanel is in the way. I have been thinking about modifying the door panels but im not sure yet.

Mike


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## MiloX (May 22, 2005)

DonovanM said:


> That is a textbook deadening install. One of the better ones I've seen. Nice work man!


Word. Nice job with the mat. 

I like where you are going with the kicks too.


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## dBassHz (Nov 2, 2005)

Mike Hall said:


> I have some RS225's but im not sure they will fit without major mods. The window chanel is in the way. I have been thinking about modifying the door panels but im not sure yet.
> 
> Mike


Well, I'm definitely interested in your system. My friend needs a system and has a F250. Keep up the good work.


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## birdie2000 (Jan 27, 2007)

Looks great! Like the simplicity of the kick panels. Gonna leave them black or dye them to the factory color?


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

This will sound silly, but in this picture what is below the ensolite? It almost looks like fiberglass mat. I assume you only have deadener underneath but it doesn't look like deadener.


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## birdie2000 (Jan 27, 2007)

Looks like the glue for the ensolite to me...


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## Pb2theMax (Aug 26, 2005)

Beautiful dampening job. I'd hate to cover it up with seats and carpet.


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## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

I just made the baffles for the RS180s to go in the stock door location. The door panel will be pushed out just a little to give enough room for the speaker travel. Its not noticeable so Im not going to worry about it. I will get some pictures of the baffles later. I laser cut 4 .25" thick MDF sections and laminated them together. 

Thanks for all the comments on the damping install. 

Mike


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## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

Mike Hall said:


> Here are the kicks which are nothing special but they will work for now. I did not want to have much going on down in the kicks so as long as these daytons perform well off axis I will leave them. I am going to be getting the removable baffle laser cut from aluminum which I will be painting black. The baffles are lexan for now.


What do you mean "nothing special"? Those look great and they don't take up any space.


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## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

Well there not cool like most kickpanels. I just how those Daytons Perform well down there off axis. 

Mike


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## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

Here are the RS180 baffles. 

Mike


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## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

Im changing my plans on the power for this system. I will be using this Power 650 and a Power 300 I just picked up off ebay. 

Mike


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## Pb2theMax (Aug 26, 2005)

You can get a little more clearance on the back of the RS180s by taking off the rubber magnet protector.


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## ghart999 (Feb 8, 2006)

Gotta love the old school RF Power amps. I had a Power 1000 back in the day. I think it weighed 75 pounds or something crazy.


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## technobug (Mar 15, 2005)

bikinpunk said:


> This will sound silly, but in this picture what is below the ensolite? It almost looks like fiberglass mat. I assume you only have deadener underneath but it doesn't look like deadener.


Looks like spray adhesive to me.

BTW.....Nice Job! Kicks look great!


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## Genxx (Mar 18, 2007)

Nice find on the RF Power stuff. Install looks great. Super deadening job. I have yet to work on my F250 Crew Cab so keep the pics and findings coming.


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## ClinesSelect (Apr 16, 2006)

Great work and I especially like your choice of amps


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## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

I got the DIYMA enclosure built last night. Its .75 ft3 after woofer displacement. I will test it at that volume and add blocks of wood or maybe bracing to take up enclosure volume if im not happy with the sound. I will be building a console to go around the enclosure that will be modeled after the new 08 Superduty console.

Mike


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## tr0y_audi0 (Feb 13, 2007)

nice love the work..
that RF amp looks so clean..
nice find x2
Peace Troy


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## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

Well, I got the Power 300 in yesterday and Although its not near as nice as the Power 650 I already had it is still very nice. I had to replace the RCA pigtail as one of the ends was crushed. I went ahead and opened up both the 650 and 300 to solder on new power / ground wires which I did tonight. Im going to use these to hook the speaker wires to the amps. I saw them at an electronics store today and figured it would work out great. 

Mike


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## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

I guess when you take your time your bound to change your mind on what you will be installing. Well here is what im going with and sticking with for now.  

ID CD1 mini horns with B&C DE-200 drivers 
RS 185 midbass drivers
DIYMA 12 or IDMAX 12
Two Diamond D5 600.2 amps 
One Diamond D5 600.4 amp

I have the RS180's mounted already on custom made baffles and I have been working on getting the horns mounted. I found a cool place to mount the horns which should prove to be the best location in a truck like a F250. The Diamond audio amps will be mounted on the back wall behind the rear seat with a custom fiberglass cover that matches the amps profile. The sub will be mounted in a custom built center console which will be modeled after the new F250 console. Im going to try to bust my butt and get everything finished up this week and I will update as I get stuff done.



































Mike


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## Sex Cells (Jul 21, 2007)

I can digg it.


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## BigRed (Aug 12, 2007)

nice work.....im working on one myself....so I always love to see other F250 installs


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## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

Not very many install threads out there for our trucks.  

Mike


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Very nice, Mike.
Loving the locations for the horns. You can get a totally stealth system.
Subscribed.
Keep up the great work.

Jorge


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Mike Hall said:


> Not very many install threads out there for our trucks.
> 
> Mike


Jim has a Red Ranger with a 2" lift.


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## Kenny_Cox (Sep 9, 2007)

I really like those kick panels, they are so simple and so clean!


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## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

Thanks ken, Im not going with that setup anymore though. Im a sucker for horns so that's what Im going to go with now.

I got the full body horns out and they do fit better than the minis due to how the driver mounts on the body. But the full bodies are also much taller so they will hang lower and cant be mounted as far back as the minis. Out of the two I do think the full body horns will fit better so I guess I will go with the standard under the dash mounting for now. I just need to figure out where to put the E brake release.  

Mike


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

are amp links available for those amps?

Can you imagine how great those amps would looked stacked in a row, all wiring invisible?

If I couldn't find amp links, the first thing I'd be looking for is a broken one on ebay. To disassemble and toss on the table saw to MAKE my own links and end caps. 

I see so many possibilities for this car. Very, Very cool. I just love what you did with the stock kickpanels to integrate the aftermarkets. clever and attractive.


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## BigRed (Aug 12, 2007)

you could use an actuator, and eliminate the manual mechanism


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## waternut (Feb 6, 2008)

Alright, looks great. Am getting ready to do an install in a GMC Sierra 2500 CC 4x4 Duramax diesel and has given me a lot of ideas.Am planing on installing 3 Esoteric two channel amps with lots of sound deadener. Thanks, for the info.


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## BigRed (Aug 12, 2007)

Doiter had a mazda whose midbass's are bigger than his rims


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## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

I got the passenger side horn installed. It sure is nice having a plasma, tig and lots of sheet steel laying around. I Make steel mounting brackets that bolt to the steel dash frame. I tig welded nuts on the back of the horn brackets to make it ultra easy to install with just a screw driver.  I will post some pictures later tonight. I have to get the drivers side installed being its going to start raining tonight and rain all day tomorrow. 

Mike


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## BigRed (Aug 12, 2007)

show us some pics Mike....lookin forward to the progress


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

BigRed said:


> Doiter had a mazda whose midbass's are bigger than his rims


Jim, first and one more time it's doitOr. With an "O".
And second, YES my L8's are bigger than my rims, but I'm going to put a 2" lift like your Red Ranger.


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## BigRed (Aug 12, 2007)

sorry man, i started off with the "e" and can't seem to break the habit 

my apologies Doitor!!  Doitor Doitor Doitor...I'm getting it.


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## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

Well as you can see the passenger side it mounted and ready for a grill but the drivers side is not quite finished due to the rain.  I have one side hung and the other side lined up and ready to drill but I still have to make the rear hanger that will bold to the rear of the horn body. Another 30 minutes and I would have been finished but it just had to start raining. Anyhow here are two pictures. OH yeah, The drivers side horn does hinder your foot from getting on the brake pedal somewhat. I may have to move the horns forward a bit to make a little more room.

















Mike


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## BigRed (Aug 12, 2007)

nice!!


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## sporty_drew (Dec 7, 2007)

Looking great, Makes me want to try some horns out.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

Nice work! So did you decide if you're going to stay with the DIYMA R12 or if you're going to switch it out in favor of an IDMAX?

Also, Whiterabbit's idea about either getting links for your amps or picking up a junk amp off of Ebay and making your own was a killer idea!!!

Zach


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## monkeyboy (Jun 12, 2007)

That was exactly how I had mine mocked up last weekend.

How much do you think it will mess with the sound not having the horn flare any farther out?


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## BigRed (Aug 12, 2007)

not much in your truck monkeyboy!


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## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

The horns are installed.  The outer end of the horn on the passenger side needs to be dropped down just a little and the horns will both be almost dead on with each other. The only bad thing about the horn install is that your foot will hit the drivers side horn when trying to get to the pedal. It does not cause any problems but it does bother me every time I use the brakes I kick my horn. 


















Mike


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Mike Hall said:


> every time I use the brakes I kick my horn


That sound a bit dangerous.
What happened to the other mounting option a bit higher?


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## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

Cant go any higher unless you want the drivers horn higher than the passenger horn. As far as mounting them up in the dash, that option would not sound as good as the Path length difference would be much greater in those locations. Its not dangerous with how the horns are setup now but the top of my foot does hit the back side of the horn when I use the brake. Its not a big deal and I don't see it every causing any problems. I had these same horns with standard CD1 drivers installed in a 90 mustang GT back 10 years ago and had the same issue. Again its not going to hurt anything is just that my foot does hit the back of the horn.

Mike


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## OldOneEye (Jun 16, 2005)

monkeyboy said:


> That was exactly how I had mine mocked up last weekend.
> 
> How much do you think it will mess with the sound not having the horn flare any farther out?


I thought you had to couple the horn to the dash to use the dash as part of horn (and allow the horn to go lower).

Juan


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## monkeyboy (Jun 12, 2007)

I was told as wide and far back as possible. That was all.


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## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

I have the horns as far back and out as you can get them. 

Mike


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## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

Im going to take a brake on the horn grill install and get to work on the amp rack. I need some sound in my tuck bad.  I have some cool ideas on how I will be setting up the amps rack. I will be using solid copper wire which will run from aluminum bar stock to the amps. The aluminum bar stock will be grounded or hooked up to the power cables. I will also be running solid copper wire from the amps to distribution blocks from which the speaker wires will be hooked in. I will take some pictures tomorrow afternoon once I get it all laid out. Its going to be cool looking for sure. 

Mike


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## sporty_drew (Dec 7, 2007)

Mike Hall said:


> Im going to take a brake on the horn grill install and get to work on the amp rack. I need some sound in my tuck bad.  I have some cool ideas on how I will be setting up the amps rack. I will be using solid copper wire which will run from aluminum bar stock to the amps. The aluminum bar stock will be grounded or hooked up to the power cables. I will also be running solid copper wire from the amps to distribution blocks from which the speaker wires will be hooked in. I will take some pictures tomorrow afternoon once I get it all laid out. Its going to be cool looking for sure.
> 
> Mike


Sounds nice, I've been debating using copper ever since i read the Badass Bmw thread. Can't wait to see the pictures.


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## xtwistedx (Feb 19, 2008)

where did u buy the material from?


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## SXR_nathan (Mar 29, 2008)

Got any more on this? I have a 2003 F350 that I am going to start with a lite install on. I want to start with some deadening, how much deadening did you use? Did you do the roof?

Nathan


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## BigRed (Aug 12, 2007)

For reference: 1 roll of raamat did 1.75 layers for the floor only. Granted, I went deep into the firewall because its a diesel. F250 superduty.


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