# Add one more to the horn crowd! ID comp CD2s



## slimxb8 (Sep 1, 2018)

Picked up some image Dynamics comp cd2s from my bud last night. 

What is the lowest I can cross these over at? And what slope? I can go up to 48 using a minidsp.

Current set up is 4s and tweets in A pillars, and 6.5s in doors. 350hz and up on the 4s. Looking to get rid of those and hopefully gain a wider and deeper stage. Stage does "horseshoe" some but very level.


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## Eric Stevens (Dec 29, 2007)

The CD2 Comp can play as low as 600 Hz but gets forward and harsh in the upper midrange if pushed hard when crossed this low. Suggested is 800 Hz @ 24 or 48. Steeper slope will help minimize any effects of PLD with the midbass.

Clean and inspect the compression drivers before use. To do this use masking tape folded for two sticky sides out and drag it through the VC gap to clean the gap.


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## slimxb8 (Sep 1, 2018)

Thank you Eric!


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## slimxb8 (Sep 1, 2018)

I mocked them up tonight, quick TA,and ran it threw REW. 
I have NEVER EVER heard anything this smooth and warm. No weird phase issues. Very littleTA.

Stage is already high and big! Just what I was missing.

What can I do about some ques coming from the right that pull image down to opening of right horn?

For instance, in hotel Cali live, there is a wood block being played and I hear it at the glove box. 
Can something like thin foam be put on the part of the horn that you see to soften the localization of a few frequencies? 

I dont think I'ma gonna have room to get it deeper than flush with dash.


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## Eric Stevens (Dec 29, 2007)

slimxb8 said:


> I mocked them up tonight, quick TA,and ran it threw REW.
> I have NEVER EVER heard anything this smooth and warm. No weird phase issues. Very littleTA.
> 
> Stage is already high and big! Just what I was missing.
> ...


No foam or other treatments, the sound is mostly acting like a liquid until well after the horn mouth so its not a reflection or refraction within the horn. If you are localizing to the horn there is something causing frequency steering or its a lobing effect through the crossover region between horn and midbass. First thing I would try is reversing phase of the horns relative to the midbass, or you can try some delay on the midbass.


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## slimxb8 (Sep 1, 2018)

Been a few days now and what I noticed over my other set up is. When I go out in the morning, I don't hate the tune. I felt like I'd get a good set up with the A pillars but the next day I'd be like really? This sucks. 

This is my final tune. I did bump the "trebble" on the head unit for taste and it raised the stage some too.. how does the response look? I've only used the led type rta in the past.


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## Eric Stevens (Dec 29, 2007)

Looks great, as you listen & notice things I can help with recomendations based upon your observations.

Couple of thoughts... if it gets forward as you crank the volume pull down the 3.1kHz range and possibly the 2.5kHz.

If you have anything boosted in the 500 to 800 range I suggest only cutting peaks or rises in the response in this area and leaving dips alone.


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## slimxb8 (Sep 1, 2018)

I played a lot with inverting mid to horn and TA for each side then TAed all. Wow. So what I gained is less localization from that right horn. The biggest thing is the depth, it pushed the stage way back. Before I felt like it played "around"the dash. Now it feels like the dash was removed from the car and has room to breathe. Does that make sense? 
Thanks for the tips Eric. It's helping a lot, being new to horns and I know you know these well.


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## dcfis (Sep 9, 2016)

Awesome set up man


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

slimxb8 said:


> I played a lot with inverting mid to horn and TA for each side then TAed all. Wow. So what I gained is less localization from that right horn. The biggest thing is the depth, it pushed the stage way back. Before I felt like it played "around"the dash. Now it feels like the dash was removed from the car and has room to breathe. Does that make sense?
> Thanks for the tips Eric. It's helping a lot, being new to horns and I know you know these well.


At one point the home speakers were sound like the stage was 4-5 past the wall.
(But the Mrs did not where the speakers were - I should have marked the location - as it sounded like PFM)


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## Elgrosso (Jun 15, 2013)

I’m guessing you can’t place them deeper, but they look to be really angled here, isn’t it too much “in your face”? But I don’t doubt it sounds cool.
Or maybe with a pair of mini, smaller and easier to place.


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## slimxb8 (Sep 1, 2018)

Im gonna remount them Tuesday. I will move the e brake that's holding me up. Wider and deeper hopefully. I think I want to get them past the edge of the dash.


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

Elgrosso said:


> I’m guessing you can’t place them deeper, *but they look to be really angled here, isn’t it too much “in your face”?* But I don’t doubt it sounds cool.
> Or maybe with a pair of mini, smaller and easier to place.


was kinda thinking the same thing. dont have alot of experience, but they should be nice an horizontal, not aimed at the listener.


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## slimxb8 (Sep 1, 2018)

Starting tonight.... This was just a temp mount to get them going as I had no experience with them before...will post results


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## slimxb8 (Sep 1, 2018)

So, not much to show. All the work to take out the e brake got me about half an inch wider. I was able to get it mounted a lil better wth out the up angle. The magnet is so big it is wider to the left than the horn itself. It hits the kick panel and I can't get deeper due to major wire look for the whole car there. 

Been working on tune and found that if I xover at 2100 area I no longer get a saggy right stage.

I'd love to make the left wider due to a lil OCD but my stage is past the pillar now. Not too concerned. Someday I'll get the neos.

So Eric. If im crossing over 1800 to 2100 do I even need full bodies? Is there any benefit over MH sonically besides some better placement?

Here is what is pretty close to final tune for now. Very warm and smoothe. Stage is like 3inches above dash sometimes a lil higher. Vocals are super natural and fluid.


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## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

Your graph looks pretty good but it is hard to tell since your vertical scale is too wide. Try pulling it down to 60 and 100/120. Also, use the top left camera icon, which saves a picture of the graph with the option to enter a title and other options.


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## Eric Stevens (Dec 29, 2007)

The MH and the full size have different crossfire angles and bbetter response above 12Khz which is best depends on the vehicle and preferences. The MH will play well typically to 1200 Hz so you are ok bandwidth wise.


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## Patrick Bateman (Sep 11, 2006)

dgage said:


> Your graph looks pretty good but it is hard to tell since your vertical scale is too wide. Try pulling it down to 60 and 100/120. Also, use the top left camera icon, which saves a picture of the graph with the option to enter a title and other options.


I was thinking the same thing. The scale has to be nuts, that's impossibly smooth for a car.


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## slimxb8 (Sep 1, 2018)

Ok same graph just really magnified. Found a way to work on cleaning it up a lil tighter.


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## Eric Stevens (Dec 29, 2007)

Patrick Bateman said:


> I was thinking the same thing. The scale has to be nuts, that's impossibly smooth for a car.


Actually is not impossibly smooth for a car in the least.

If it was without signal processing then it would be questionable.


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## dcfis (Sep 9, 2016)

Is the high end a little hot?


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## Eric Stevens (Dec 29, 2007)

dcfis said:


> Is the high end a little hot?


Depends on the way it was measured. 

I have found that if I measure using a method that averages the response in the area of the head and over time of about 10 seconds a flat curve through mid and high frequencies can have the proper balance.


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