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Non conventional Sound deadening/dampening/absorbtion ideas

12K views 33 replies 19 participants last post by  Gary S  
#1 ·
So I am curious if you guys have any secret tips on taking a car to the next level with sound deadening? I am talking about ideas other then dynamat/ensolite. I'll start. One trick I used to use was to make a decorative 1/2" - 3/4" MDF panel to bolt to the trunk lid. This worked a million times better then dynamating the lid. You can do something similar on some car doors skins. My car audio mentor would sometimes build a full baffle of MDF to replace the interior door panel. This was in the 90s where some cars made this really easy, now a days that would be a little harder.
 
#2 ·
donno what it's done... but I've spray foamed most nooks and crannies..
 
#4 ·
not a huge difference, but in places where you can't get other things, it helps stiffen things up...

rockers
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rear sides (coupe)
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trunk
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upper rear side (sealing trunk for IB)
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#8 ·
i have friends that have used kerfed mdf for their roofs. havent taken that step myself. no need when im not running a high powered system :) haha. i DO plan on using mdf to rebuild my door panels and sealed pods (96 tacoma) ive also used the hilti expanding foam to seal up the voids in the cabs subframe. firmed it up a bit and reduced whatever rattles could come from those pieces of sheet metal contacting each other. i found if it drips, dont wipe it up. just let it try and itll break off. whatever residue is left over can be cleaned up with acetone.
 
#9 ·
#13 ·
we also used almost an entire roll of insulation cramming it into crevice and cavity in the rear quarter panels, dash, door panels etc....to eliminate road noise, reduce panel flex and increase noise absorption.
works better than spray foam IMO
 
#15 ·
Yup, same here. Had a bunch of polyfill from an old build and decided to try stuffing it throughout my car. Made a significant improvement in reducing the rattles.
 
#16 ·
I have a bail of woven cotton insulation left over from building absorption panels for my home studio. I ran out of the Owens Corning 703, which is more rigid. I plan to stuff areas with it and am considering building absorption panels with it around the car to reduce reflections. Dash, roof, doors and rear deck appear to be good places to start. Gonna wrap it in acoustically transparent cloth. Too bad I can't do the windows.
 
#18 ·
I have an idea , but not sure if it will work.

Using a coating type paste (second skin or whatever) , use a bit of talcum powder to thicken it with a slight amount of resin and hardner. then 2 big bags of loose ball beatrings of various sizes mixed in , use this on flat panels should add weight .

dunno how well it will work , but u get the idea.
 
#26 ·
Thank you for the invite. I have seen your thread and really wanted to hear many of the products I read about on here. I will check my schedule ( I travel a lot for my job). My car is still a stack of parts waiting to be installed. I will RSVP if I am able to attend. Thank you!
 
#22 ·
i never understood why people do these things to astro vans. i mean if you're gonna gut and strip the interior why not just start out with a cargo van that is already empty in the rear. not only that but they also have a beefier engine and alternator no? seems like much more of a blank slate than an old style minivan, plus all the extra room. a nice chevy 3500 or ford econoline 350 would have that much more volume for a box.
 
#23 ·
i dont get it either... the guy wanted all of that done, but didnt want to upgrade the suspension to accommodate the extra THOUSANDS of pounds that were now being carried by it. he also didnt want to do a plexi windshield and didnt want to reinforce the doors. honestly, the guy is a retard. but it was fun to do! especially since ill never do it again! (by choice)
 
#24 ·
I forgot the OTHER foam...:laugh: (it's a memory type foam)

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Looking up at the pedal box/steering column.. (filled behind gauges as well)
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#28 ·
I may own and sell BXT II RAAMmat and sell a huge amount of Ensolite but I use whatever it takes on the particular install that is needed.

96 Taco: Filled every cavity in the cab I could with Todal, Pur Fil foam, this is not your Home Depot foam by any means. I used aluminum channels to stiffen some areas before adding deadening, three different materials to line the underside of the dash, silicone sealer, tie raps and a great deal of mat, spray on stuff in some areas, very solid speaker baffles, channels behind them, etc...etc....etc....200 hours into deadening alone!

05 Scion tC TT/Audio comp car: removed a few hundred pounds of weight any way I could, cost and time be damned, then used 360 liquid oz of the Pur Fil(one nasty long week just doing that!) CF roof, cage, aluminum channels, a great deal of it, barely any mat, lots of ensolite, egg crate acoustical foam in the rear seat and rear sides, another 100 hours or so........

06 Vette: Higher percentage of mat than some installs but the rear of the car just needed it. Lots of Ensolite, lined underneath as much as I could with the foam, fender wells and liners, 335 tires, headers, exhaust, convertible and very quiet on the road and only added 20 lbs! I used my Alumalite speaker baffles as super stiff, super effective and super low in weight at just 4.5 oz, going from a 10 to a 6.5 leaves alot of baffle! Alumalite door filler plates, channels on the door skins, neo mids, Arc mini amps, etc.....total weigh gaing, with IDQ10V3 in ultra light enclosure, just over 40 lbs including deadening.

06 Duramax: Channels in the doors, aluminum over the huge gaping access holes, mat, channels to stiffen that area more, Ensolite of course. Under the dash, approx two sheets of PE acoustical foam, huge reduction in engine noise as can barely tell it is a diesel on the road.

Many many others over the years. I always use silicone on light sockets, behind connectors, under wires, joints in panels, door pops, etc........tons of tie wraps, strips of foam, expanding foam, fiberglass sometimes, etc.........

I only add mass where it is needed according to the vehicle, bass, midbass, etc power, location, etc..............lots of etc...........in what I do:):)

I do what it takes and always recommend steps I feel a particular vehicle, system, owner requires, many times less material from me than they think they need.

Rick
 
#30 ·
I used 45 mil EPDM roofing rubber to line my trunk, rear deck and doors - it seems to work great - road noise greatly reduced, and really deadened the trunk and doors. I had it left over from a koi pond project..... it's alot cheaper than any of the mat stuff...
 
#32 ·
i like the ideas here. last week i've been stuffing cellulose (blow-in) insulation in all my car's cavities, nooks and crannies. it has worked really well and you can really pack it in tight, but i will probably look for an alternative as it was a complete mess! only cost 10 bucks at the depot, though.

also looking for comparable mlv alternatives.....